A house made of GSB without internal load-bearing walls. House made of GSB without internal load-bearing walls Wooden house without load-bearing walls

13-04-2016: Olga

Hello, my parents built cottage 9x12 of aerated concrete blocks Aerobel D500, B= 3.5 (625Х300Х200) plus facing brick. The foundation is 1.2 m deep, the base is made of red brick. There are 2 walls inside sand-lime brick(65 mm thick), which have a 0.6 m foundation and a red brick plinth. It was planned to do wooden floors. But it turned out that it is undesirable to make more than 6 m inside the beam without load-bearing walls. As a result, reinforced concrete slabs were installed. Construction crew, in which there were 2 people with a higher education in construction, laid out 3 or 4 rows of red brick with reinforcing mesh in front of the slabs. As I understand it, it was necessary to pour concrete with reinforcement the same way as for a foundation? Above the windows there are lintels with reinforcement and concrete in U-shaped blocks. Even before installation plasterboard ceilings It turned out that the slabs were not level, that is, the builders laid the walls of unequal height. The house has been standing for 4 years. There are no cracks. Tell me, will the house collapse?

13-04-2016: Doctor Lom

It is difficult to draw clear conclusions from your description. In my opinion, there is nothing wrong with this (if the slabs are about 9 m long). However, just in case, look at the article “Simplified calculation of a wall from GSB”, link at the end of the article.

13-04-2016: Olga

Thank you. I just thought that if there is no load-bearing wall inside and the span is about 9 m, then this is a seam and for floors along wooden beams and on reinforced concrete slabs. In addition, the reinforcing belt in front of the ceilings is rows of red brick. I will add details to the description: The roof is gable with metal tiles, on top of the slab there in the center lies a beam or a beam on which wooden posts rest - they are called headstocks? There seem to be no struts. Height from floor to slabs - 3 m.

14-04-2016: Doctor Lom

In principle, no one is forbidden to think and assume anything, but in order to sleep peacefully, you just need to check your designs with calculations. For example, the load on your floor slabs depends not only on the roof structure, but also on the value snow load, as well as whether the attic will be used and, if so, how. In addition, standard hollow-core floor slabs can be designed for a load of 400, 800 or 1200 kg/m. But in general, even slabs with a design load of 400 kg/m should be sufficient in your case.

Well, the fact is that instead of a monolithic reinforcing belt, several rows were made brickwork with mesh reinforcement - this is of course not very good, but in principle, if the foundation is done well, then there is nothing wrong with it.

14-04-2016: Olga

Unfortunately, I do not have a construction education, although I graduated from a construction university (Faculty of Economics). I may not be able to do the calculation...

There are boards in the attic, old furniture and all sorts of rubbish. The pediment is also laid out from arable blocks and facing bricks. There are racks in two rows, resting on the floor slabs.

14-04-2016: Doctor Lom

Olga, first try to count, and then you will regret it. There, in the article I mentioned, there are only a couple of simple formulas. And from the description “There are boards, old furniture and all sorts of rubbish in the attic,” I cannot even approximately determine the value of the load, even if I really wanted to, so let’s do it ourselves. And the pediment, if it rests mostly on the underlying walls, does not affect the load on the slabs in any way.

The walls of private houses, cottages and other low-rise buildings are usually made of two or three layers with an insulating layer. The insulation layer is located on the load-bearing part of the wall made of bricks or small-format blocks. Developers often ask questions:
“Is it possible to save on wall thickness?”
“Isn’t it possible to make the load-bearing part of the wall of the house thinner than the neighbor’s or than provided for by the project?

On construction sites and in projects see a load-bearing brick wall with a thickness of 250 mm., and from blocks - even 200 mm. has become commonplace.

The wall turned out to be too thin for this house.

Loads and impacts on the walls of the house

Design standards (SNiP II-22-81 “Stone and reinforced masonry structures”), regardless of the calculation results, limit the minimum thickness of load-bearing stone walls for masonry within the range from 1/20 to 1/25 of the floor height.

Thus, with a floor height of 2.5 ... 3 m. The wall thickness in any case should be more than 120 - 150 mm.

A vertical compressive load acts on a load-bearing wall on the weight of the wall itself and the overlying structures (walls, ceilings, roof, snow, operational load). Design resistance The compression strength of brick and block masonry depends on the brand of brick or class of blocks in terms of compressive strength and the brand of mortar.

For low-rise buildings, as calculations show, the compressive strength of a wall with a thickness of 200-250 mm made of brick is provided with a large margin. For a wall made of blocks, with the appropriate choice of block class, there are usually no problems either.

In addition to vertical loads, horizontal loads act on the wall (section of the wall), caused, for example, by wind pressure or transmission of thrust from rafter system roofs.

Besides, torques act on the wall, who seek to rotate a section of the wall. These points are due to the fact that the load on the wall, for example, from floor slabs or from a layer of insulation and facade cladding, is not applied in the center of the wall, but is shifted to the side faces. The walls themselves have deviations from the vertical and straightness of the masonry, which also leads to additional stresses in the wall material.

Horizontal loads and torques create bending load in the material on each section of the load-bearing wall.

How to make walls strong and stable

Strength, stability of walls with a thickness of 200-250 mm and less, has no bending loads large stock. Therefore, the stability of walls of the specified thickness for a particular building must be confirmed by calculation.

To build a house with walls of this thickness, it is necessary to choose a ready-made project with the appropriate wall thickness and material. We always entrust the adjustment of the project with other parameters to the selected thickness and material of the walls to specialists.

Practice of design and construction of residential low-rise buildings showed that load-bearing walls made of bricks or blocks with a thickness of more than 350 - 400 mm. have a good margin of strength and resistance to both compressive and bending loads, in the vast majority designs building.

The walls of the house, external and internal, resting on the foundation, together with the foundation and ceiling, form a single spatial structure (framework), which jointly resists loads and influences.

Creating a durable and economical building frame is an engineering task that requires high qualifications, pedantry and culture from construction participants.

A house with thin walls is more sensitive to deviations from the design, from standards and construction rules.

The developer needs to understand that the strength and stability of walls is reduced if:

• wall thickness decreases;
• the height of the wall increases;
• the area of ​​openings in the wall increases;
• the width of the wall between the openings decreases;
• the length of the free section of the wall that does not have support and interface with the transverse wall increases;
• channels or niches are installed in the wall;

The strength and stability of walls changes in one direction or another if:

• change the wall material;
• change the type of overlap;
• change the type and size of the foundation;

Defects that reduce the strength and stability of walls

Violations and deviations from project requirements, construction norms and rules, which builders allow (in the absence of proper control on the part of the developer), reducing the strength and stability of walls:

• wall materials (bricks, blocks, mortar) with reduced strength compared to the requirements of the project are used.
• anchoring is not performed metal bonds floors (slabs, beams) with walls according to the design;
• deviations of the masonry from the vertical, displacement of the wall axis exceed the established technological standards;
• deviations in the straightness of the masonry surface exceed established technological standards;
• The masonry joints are not filled completely enough with mortar. The thickness of the seams exceeds the established standards.
• excessive amounts of brick halves and chipped blocks are used in the masonry;
• insufficient connection of the masonry of internal walls with external ones;
• omissions of mesh reinforcement of masonry;

In all of the above cases of changes in the dimensions or materials of walls and ceilings, the developer must contact professional designers to make changes to project documentation. Changes to the project must be certified by their signature.

Your foreman’s “let’s make it simpler” suggestions must be agreed upon with a professional designer. Control the quality construction work that are made by contractors. When performing work on our own Avoid the above construction defects.

The norms of the rules for the production and acceptance of work (SNiP 3.03.01-87) allow: deviations of the walls according to the displacement of the axes (10 mm), by deviation of one floor from the vertical (10 mm), according to the displacement of the floor slab supports in plan (6...8 mm) etc.

The thinner the walls, the more they are loaded, the less safety margin they have. The load on the wall multiplied by the “mistakes” of designers and builders may turn out to be excessive (pictured).

The processes of wall destruction do not always appear immediately, but sometimes years after the completion of construction.

House made of blocks with wall thickness 180 mm.

Principles of designing a house with minimum thickness the walls are clearly visible in the following photos. In house designs with thin walls, elements made of monolithic reinforced concrete are widely used.

The simple architectural form of the house allows the use of commonly available materials for construction and helps optimize construction costs.

The house has 114 m 2 usable area and is designed for a family of 4-5 people. In the attic there are three bedrooms and a bathroom.

On the ground floor along the southern facade with large windows there is a spacious living room combined with a dining room and kitchen. In the other part there is an office, a bathroom and a technical room.

Silicate blocks were used to lay the outer walls of the house. Wall thickness 180 mm. Thin walls increase usable area Houses.

The house is designed so that it has no internal load-bearing walls. Inside the house there is a load-bearing beam, which is supported by two columns inside and two columns built into the masonry of the external walls. The beam itself and the columns are made of monolithic reinforced concrete. This solution allows for a free layout of the premises on the floor.

To increase the resistance of the walls to loads, there is a monolithic reinforced concrete belt at the floor level of the first floor. A section of wall with wide, high windows and narrow walls on the southern facade are also made of monolithic reinforced concrete.

The roof of the house rests on a monolithic reinforced concrete belt on top of the attic walls. In the attic walls of the attic, on which the roof mauerlat rests, there are reinforced concrete columns. The need for columns in the outer walls is due to the fact that these walls do not have cross connections inside the attic. The absence of transverse walls allows for a free layout of the attic rooms.

Formwork for installing a monolithic column in the outer wall of a house. The column serves as a support for the load-bearing beam inside the house.

Formwork installation for monolithic columns along the edges of wide window openings.

In the background you can see the formwork for the columns inside the house. The two columns inside are located on the same axis with the columns built into the outer walls.

The floors in the house are prefabricated monolithic, often ribbed, on the same level as the monolithic reinforced concrete wall belt.

The monolithic floor, made integral with the monolithic belt of walls, together with the walls, creates a single and durable spatial structure - the skeleton of the house.

Attic walls of the attic with a height of 1.3 m., on which the roof mauerlat rests, are reinforced with monolithic columns built into the masonry.

Formwork for the construction of monolithic columns and attic wall belts.
The southern facade of the house with openings for tall large windows. Visible inside monolithic beam, which rests on two columns inside and two columns built into the masonry of the outer walls.

The rafters of each roof slope at the top rest on a truss, the ends of which, in turn, lie on the opposite gable walls of the attic. This solution made it possible to abandon the intermediate posts of the ridge beam. As a result, the space inside the attic is free for planning. The angle of inclination of the roof slopes is 42 degrees.

House foundation— monolithic reinforced concrete slab thickness 250 mm. The foundation slab lies on a layer of insulation. Non-removable formwork made of insulation. Insulation slabs are laid along the perimeter of the foundation, under the blind area. This solution prevents freezing of the soil under the foundation.

Wall thickness 200-250 mm made of bricks or blocks is certainly advisable to choose for one-story house or for the top floor of a multi-story building.

A house of two or three floors with a wall thickness of 200-250 mm. build if you have it at your disposal finished project, tied to the ground conditions of the construction site, qualified builders, and independent technical supervision of construction.

In other conditions for the lower floors of two- or three-story houses safer than a wall thickness not less than 350 mm.

To ensure the strength and stability of a private house with a minimum wall thickness, the installation of a monolithic reinforced concrete belt has become standard. The belt is placed on top of the external and internal load-bearing walls on each floor of the house. Beams and floor slabs, roof slabs must be connected (anchored) with metal ties to a reinforced concrete belt on the walls of the house.

How to make load-bearing walls with a thickness of only 190 mm.,

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Is it possible to break load-bearing walls?

You can't cut down a hut without taking an ax

Some people take on renovations so thoroughly that it's even a little scary! They are obsessed with the desire to remodel the entire apartment from A to Z. Such people, dreaming of redevelopment, do not even stop at breaking down walls.

However, is it worth doing? Is it always safe? What could be the consequences of such a decision? This is what we will talk about now.

The most dangerous thing you can do is break the so-called load-bearing structures. This is fraught with the most unpleasant consequences, namely the collapse of the apartment of the neighbors living above you. Of course, this does not always happen. It would be more accurate to say that such a collapse happens quite rarely. But still, this danger really exists, and it cannot be neglected. It is not without reason that according to the law, a tenant (and even a homeowner) does not have the right to destroy the load-bearing structures of a house without the consent of specialist architects who carry out technical supervision over the operation of the housing stock.

IN Soviet times most people were not owners, they were only renters of apartments. So, if one of the residents, of his own free will, without the approval of technical supervision, demolished the load-bearing walls and remodeled the apartment, then by a court decision he could be forced to restore everything as it was original form. This eloquently demonstrates how important load-bearing structures are for the safety of all residents of the house.

I don’t know exactly what rules exist in housing legislation today, but in any case, if you decide to redevelop your apartment, you must approach this issue extremely seriously. Don’t be lazy, go to the PIB (district design and inventory bureau). There are plans for each and every residential area in your area. Of course, do not report there that you are going to break down the walls, just ask to show you the floor plan of your apartment. By the way, all passing communications are indicated on it. Study this plan and see which walls are load-bearing and which are not.

In addition, look at which walls contain wells with ventilation shafts, telephone and electrical cables and similar communication lines. If you yourself do not understand these issues, then take with you a person with an engineering education who can understand the design features of your walls. And only after you consult with a specialist can you make a final decision.

If you take on the major demolition of walls, as they say, right off the bat, then no matter the hour, you can end up with a headache, and what a headache! It’s good if you live on the top floor, and then the weakening of the load-bearing structures will not affect anyone but you. What if you live on the first or second floor and there are eight, ten, twelve more apartments right above you? Imagine for a moment that the load-bearing wall you demolished weakens the strength of the wall supports, they cannot withstand and collapse. And then what? It’s scary to even think... How much money compensation for material damage could cost you! Please note that if you break the load-bearing structures without official permission and this ultimately leads to serious consequences, then any court will clearly not be on your side.

In short, as you already understand, I urge you, before making such a drastic decision, to think carefully and weigh everything. Perhaps, in your particular case, demolishing a wall does not mean anything terrible. Then, as they say now, the flag is in your hands!

In general, you can radically update your apartment and make it more comfortable without such radical steps. There are a lot of witty ideas for this. design solutions. In order to implement them, you just need to move your brains properly. Surround yourself with interior design magazines, study them carefully, and I have no doubt that you will be able to find very original and interesting ideas, which you will want to immediately implement!

Town house - a new solution to the housing problem

What is a town house? It is 2-3 storey a private house superior comfort, located within the city, in an ecologically clean area, with a lot of greenery. A town house combines the advantages of a country house and a city apartment.

It is clear that people with fairly high incomes settle in such houses: entrepreneurs, successful lawyers and doctors, famous athletes, popular artists, officials, etc. Interestingly, many of them sold their prestigious, beautifully renovated apartments in the city center in order to move to town houses. For what, you ask? These people just realized that they private territory should be far from the center, and they want to live, even if it’s a twenty-minute drive from the center, but where the air is clean and the lawns are neatly trimmed and green.

An invaluable advantage of town houses is that the social environment in them is homogeneous. Here you will not meet a suspicious person with a swollen face, or a noisy group of aggressive teenagers. There is no risk of getting stuck in an antediluvian elevator, getting your foot into a puddle at the entrance, or driving your car into one of the yard holes.

The area where the town houses are located is guarded. It is well lit, everything is impeccably clean, the paths are tiled. Each townhouse is adjacent to land plot. And although it is small, you can relax there no worse than at the dacha, for example, sit in a sun lounger with a book, sunbathe, play ball, etc.

Another advantage of such housing is that, although the designs of these houses are standard, the future owner of a townhouse can, if desired, become a co-author of the architect. At his request, the architect can change the layout, for example, combining the kitchen with the dining room, increasing the number of bedrooms, etc.

In general, not a home, but a dream! Imagine yourself for a moment as the happy owner of a town house, inviting friends to visit: “I invite you to my place, my private house is located near the center, just twenty minutes away by car!”