How to hem a wooden ceiling in a private house. The ceiling in the attic is the business card of the room under the roof. Attic filing

Let's consider the issue of finishing the attic. During installation, you can use materials such as drywall, lining, siding. So let's look at a couple of aspects in this article.

To plaster the ceiling, it is first hemmed with planks (thin boards made of various types of wood).

• For these purposes, low-grade unedged boards, which are nailed with nails so that the distance between them is no more than 10 centimeters.
• If the width of the nailed board is more than 12 centimeters, then it is wedged. This is done so that when plaster is applied to them, the boards do not warp from moisture.

Attic finishing

If you decide to simply hem the attic ceiling and for these purposes you choose good wood, then its filing must be done according to the following scheme.

1. First, you need to bring the boards into the attic, having first trimmed them.
2. Secondly, install the scaffolding and lay the boards on them.
3. Thirdly, hang slats from the ceiling beams and lay the boards on them.
4. Fourth, sew the boards to the slats using nails.

It must be remembered that the nails are driven in at an angle to the beam and always in the places where the support bars are located.

It's a big mistake if the slats are attached to the ceiling itself. This is absolutely impossible to do. Typically, slats are attached to beams that are pre-attached to support beams or floor slabs. The distance between the bars is sixty centimeters.

Attic interior decoration

1. Most quick way when finishing the attic - this is fastening with nails. For these purposes, a punch is used, which is necessary for the final blow to the nail head. To prevent the hammer from damaging the board with the last blow, a punch is placed on the head of the nail and hammered into the board. The recess from the nail head is sealed with mastic or other means.
2. The second method of fastening is the so-called hidden fastening. The boards are fastened with thin nails at an angle of 45 degrees at the tongue and groove joints. When installing the next board, the fastening point is covered and the nail is not visible. Nails must be driven in carefully so as not to damage the wood.

After completing all the operations on covering the ceiling, it can be painted in any color you like, stained or varnished. The room for imagination and design is huge. Go for it.

Headlining

Today modern market building materials offers a new type of ceiling cladding - mineral corrugated boards. Their popularity and great demand became possible due to their high functional qualities and low price. Functional characteristics slabs include the following qualities.

• First, speed and ease of installation.
• Secondly, the possibility of installing a multi-level or sloping ceiling.
• Third, the light weight of the mineral corrugated board, one square meter The slab weighs 2.5 kilograms.
• Fourth, the slabs are characterized as an environmentally friendly material.
• Fifth, when installing these slabs, all fire safety requirements are met.
• Sixth, between the ceiling and the ceiling remains free space which creates air cushion, making the ceiling thermally insulated.

Today, manufacturers of mineral corrugated boards offer sound-absorbing panels.

Plasterboard ceiling covering

Covering plasterboard ceilings is well known and quite popular. But aluminum slatted ceilings have appeared recently. Although wood, fiberboard, chipboard, and plastic have been used for a long time in finishing works Oh. It is recommended to use plastic materials in small rooms such as a kitchen, bathroom, or hallway.
The new kind cladding - polystyrene tiles. They adhere to the surface and withstand moisture well.

Stretch ceilings are good to use in interior decoration, but their high price does not make them very popular.

Are you insulating your house for winter and don’t know how to insulate the attic floor using wooden load-bearing beams? Having gained experience in this matter, I will definitely convey technical points thermal insulation, and I will also describe step by step the procedure for carrying out the work.

Why insulate the attic?

We must not forget that a significant part of heat loss occurs through the roof. Therefore, when constructing buildings with cold attics, it is very important to pay attention to proper thermal insulation of the ceiling between the heated room and the attic.

Below I will try to explain in an accessible language how attic insulation affects the internal microclimate and overall heat loss in the house:

1. Purpose of the attic. Any unused attic under a sloping roof is essentially a buffer technical floor between the street and residential premises. Its purpose is to smooth out significant changes in air temperature inside the house and outside;
2. Temperature conditions. At any time of the year, during the day the air temperature inside the attic will be several degrees higher than outside. Thus, in winter there will almost always be negative temperatures in the attic, and on sunny summer days there will be intense heat;
3. Heat losses in winter. When the temperature of any substance increases, its density always decreases. Therefore, in heated rooms, heated air from household heating devices, always rises up to the ceiling. If the ceiling has insufficient thermal insulation, then during the cold season, all the heat from the room will go outside through the attic;

1. Excess heat in summer. On hot days summer days this process will occur in reverse. The air in the attic will become very hot from the hot roof in the sun, and then transfer its heat through the uninsulated ceiling into the apartment.
2. Reverse air circulation. After touching an uninsulated ceiling, the heated air quickly cools down, and due to the increase in density, it sharply sinks down. Indoors, this leads to excessive reverse air circulation and the constant formation of drafts, which have an adverse effect on the health of residents;
3. High humidity. When heated, humid air comes into contact with a cold, uninsulated ceiling, small drops of condensation may form under the ceiling. This will lead to an increase in air humidity in the house, and will also contribute to the appearance and development of mold on the walls and ceiling;

1. Economic factor. Confirmed heat loss through an uninsulated roof is at least 20-30%. This means that proper insulation of attic floors wooden beams, will allow you to save up to 30% fuel during each heating season. Air conditioning in summer period, will also require lower costs;
2. Damage from a “warm” attic. Among other things, the penetration of warm air into an uninhabited attic, from time to time, can lead to unpleasant consequences:

• As warm and cold air mixes, condensation will begin to form in the attic. Drops of water will settle on all surfaces, which will lead to rotting and destruction of the wooden supporting structures of the roof;
• From the warmth of the attic, snow masses the roof slopes will begin to gradually thaw. Thawed water will freeze as it flows down. This can lead to the formation of large icicles along the edges of the roof, as well as freezing of rain gutters and downspouts.

All the factors described are typical not only for residential buildings. They should be taken into account when designing and constructing any outbuildings on the site in which the heating system will be used (for example, a garage, bathhouse, barn, etc.).

Stage 1: Selecting insulation

When choosing materials for ceiling insulation, you should be guided by several criteria. In addition to low thermal conductivity, attic insulation must have the following qualities:

• Moisture resistance and mechanical strength. The material should not be deformed or destroyed under the influence of mechanical load, and should not change its properties in the event of direct contact with water;
• Heat resistance. The insulation must be absolutely non-flammable and should not be destroyed under the influence of high or low temperatures;

• Light weight. In order not to create additional stress on bearing structures buildings, the thermal insulation of the attic floor should be quite light, so you need to choose insulation with a low specific gravity;
• Vapor permeability. To ensure normal temperature and humidity conditions in residential premises, all finishing and Construction Materials must allow air and water vapor to pass freely;
• Environmental Safety. Insulation for residential buildings must be hypoallergenic and chemically neutral. It should not contain harmful volatile compounds or toxic substances;
• Lack of organic matter. I recommend using exclusively mineral or polymer based materials. They do not contain organic substances, therefore they are not susceptible to mold, and are not suitable for food for small rodents and pests.

Taking into account all these factors, several types of thermal insulation materials can be used to insulate attic floors:

1. Mineral wool. Produced in the form of rolls or rigid mats, from intertwined frozen fibers of molten sedimentary rocks. Mineral basalt wool is characterized by all of the above qualities, so it can be considered the most suitable material. Below I will give some recommendations for its use:

• Basalt wool itself is very soft. To prevent it from being pressed or dented while walking, plank flooring should be laid on top of it in the attic;
• When choosing insulation, I advise you to give preference to rigid slabs that are covered on one side with aluminum foil;
• They need to be mounted with aluminum foil inside the room. It simultaneously reflects heat and acts as a vapor barrier layer.

1. Glass wool. It has a similar manufacturing technology, only molten glass is used as the raw material for its production. I do not recommend using this material for insulating residential buildings for the following reasons:

• Glass fibers are more fragile, so they can break under load;
• The price of glass wool is much lower, but after creasing or getting wet, it partially loses its heat-insulating properties;
• Small particles of glass penetrate deeply into a person's skin and cause severe irritation.

1. Expanded clay. This bulk insulation is produced in the form of small round pellets of light brown or red color. Expanded clay balls are formed as a result of sintering special varieties of red clay under conditions high temperature.

Expanded clay has the following characteristic qualities:

• The internal structure of the material has many closed pores, so it has low thermal conductivity;
• Each pellet is covered on the outside with a dense glassy layer of baked clay, so moisture practically does not penetrate inside it;
• Small crumbly expanded clay pellets freely fill the entire volume, so they are convenient to use for insulating hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places in building structures;
• Thanks to its mineral base, this material does not burn at all and does not emit harmful substances, is not susceptible to mold, and is not suitable for rodent food.

1. Styrofoam. This polymer thermal insulation material is made by hot molding from small round granules of polystyrene foam. It is usually produced in sheets measuring 1000x1000 mm, which can be from 10 to 150 mm thick. The following features are characteristic of polystyrene foam:

• Of all existing species insulation, it has the lowest thermal conductivity;
• The foam contains no organic substances, so it is absolutely not afraid of water, does not rot and does not contribute to the formation of mold;
• By itself, polystyrene foam does not burn and does not support combustion, however, when exposed to high temperatures, it can emit toxic gases and acrid thick smoke;
• Due to the polymer base and closed porous structure, foam sheets do not allow air and water vapor to pass through. For this reason, it is not very good to use for insulating living rooms and rooms with high air humidity.

1. Extruded polystyrene foam Abbreviated as EPPS. It has the same composition as polystyrene foam, but is made by hot extrusion from a molten mass of polystyrene foam. Specifications These two materials are also very similar, however, EPS still has some differences:

• Expanded polystyrene has a porous, uniform structure and a higher specific density;
• Due to this, it has higher thermal conductivity, but at the same time is more durable, and therefore is able to bear higher weight loads;
• For this reason, I recommend using it for insulation of exploited unheated attics which will be used to store seasonal items or household equipment.

1. Foil polyethylene foam. It is also called “Penofol” in another way. This roll material consists of thick polyethylene foam film, which is covered on one or both sides with a thin layer of aluminum foil. I recommend using it in combination with other types of insulation, because by itself it has specific properties:

• The porous structure of polyethylene foam provides a low heat transfer coefficient, so it functions as an additional insulation;
• Polyethylene film does not allow air, drops of moisture and water vapor to pass through at all, so Penofol can be used as waterproofing;
• Mirror aluminum foil reflects infrared waves well thermal radiation. In other words, it does not allow radiant heat to pass through itself, and returns it back to the room.

1. Wood sawdust. This cheap and accessible material is still often used to insulate ceilings in bathhouses, heated barns or small country houses. It is applied to the wooden floor from the attic side, in the form of a homogeneous thick mixture of sawdust with a liquid clay solution. Despite the seeming primitiveness of this method, it has its advantages and disadvantages:

• Sawdust or small shavings can be bought inexpensively, or even taken for free, at almost any large sawmill;
• There can be no problems with clay either, so such insulation is easy to prepare with your own hands in the required quantity at any time;
• A mixture of sawdust and clay has a small specific gravity, and after hardening it becomes quite hard. Therefore, it does not place a significant load on the load-bearing beams, and allows you to walk on it with your feet;
• Due to the mineral components, such a coating is permeable to air and steam, but due to sawdust, it may grow mold or be chewed on by mice.

All mineral-based thermal insulation materials, to one degree or another, are capable of allowing water vapor and air to pass through. To protect such insulation from the formation of condensation or moisture penetration from the outside, they must be installed using a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane.

Stage 2: Preparation of materials and tools

In addition to insulation, for the work you will need lumber, waterproofing, as well as the usual set of carpentry and carpentry tools:

1. Two hammers: one medium, weighing 200-300 grams, and one heavy, weighing 800-1200 grams;
2. Longitudinal and transverse hacksaw for wood. Instead of a cross saw, it is more convenient to use an electric cutting machine;
3. A carpenter's plane, a large wooden mallet and a set of chisels;
4. From electric tools you need to have an ordinary household drill, and it is advisable to have cordless screwdriver with a set of replaceable nozzles;

1. For fastening roll materials(waterproofing, vapor barrier), I recommend using construction or furniture stapler with a set of metal brackets;
2. You will also need a straight metal ruler, a tape measure 3-5 meters long, a building level and a simple rope plumb line;
3. To work near the ceiling, it is most convenient to use a folding stepladder. If you don’t have one, you can use a high, strong table or homemade trestle made from scrap boards for this purpose;
4. Lumber will be needed wooden blocks section 62x62 mm, and planed edged boards 25-30 mm thick;

1. As a waterproofing layer, you can use a film of foamed polyethylene and a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane;
2. To seal the joints of the panels, you will need metallized aluminum tape, which is usually used in ventilation systems;
3. Each homeowner chooses materials for finishing the ceiling at his own discretion. This could be lining board, drywall, laminated OSB or plywood, or other finishing materials;

If you plan to use mineral or glass wool, then I recommend purchasing a special protective suit that is designed to work with these materials. Otherwise, from small fibers of glass, on open areas severe skin irritation may occur.

Stage 3: Filing the rough ceiling

During construction attic floor or erecting a sloping roof, you can do without expensive and heavy concrete floor slabs. Instead, the entire load from the roof is carried by wooden load-bearing beams made of logs or timber, with a cross-section of at least 120x120 mm. They are usually laid on top of two main exterior walls, perpendicular to the long side of the house.

Such beams serve as a supporting structure for the ceiling of the top floor and for the floor of the attic. The same beams will be used for installing insulation between residential building and the attic. This type of ceiling is called hemmed, because both the rough and the finished ceiling are hemmed from below to the load-bearing beams.

Before insulating the attic floor, you need to mount the rough ceiling:

Illustration	Description of work
	Installation draft ceiling. To file the rough ceiling, you should use dry edged boards 25 mm thick, or sheets of plywood 10 mm thick.
	Hemming boards. They must be secured to the lower plane of the load-bearing beams and beams around the perimeter of the room. Hemming boards must be fastened without gaps or cracks, close to each other. For fastening, use galvanized self-tapping screws 5-6 mm.
	Waterproofing. When the entire rough ceiling is hemmed to the load-bearing beams, panels of foiled polyethylene foam need to be secured to it from below. This can be done using a stapler. "Penofol" will perform the functions of heat and waterproofing. It should always be placed with a foil layer towards the warm room.
	Sealing joints. To prevent moist air from the room from entering the insulation, the ends of the polyethylene film must be wrapped on the walls by 150-200 mm. The joints between the panels must be glued with metallized tape on an aluminum base.
	Fastening the sheathing. From below, across the entire area of ​​the rough ceiling, nail a counter batten made of wooden slats thickness 15-22 mm. It is needed to provide ventilation air gap between Penofol and the finished ceiling. The distance between the slats should be about 400-600 mm. In the future, finishing material will be attached to them from below. ceiling covering.

Before starting work, all wooden structural elements must be treated with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnations. Antiseptics are needed to protect wood from rotting and mold development. Fire retardants give dry wood fire retardant properties.

Stage 4: Installation of thermal insulation

After filing the rough ceiling, the transverse load-bearing beams will be on the side of the attic. Insulation will be laid in between them.

Depending on the thermal insulation materials used, further installation technology may have some differences. Therefore, below I will briefly discuss the use of the most common types of insulation.

1. Laying mineral wool. Mineral insulation materials, when wet, partially lose their properties. To prevent condensation from forming in the mineral wool, the entire thermal insulation layer of the cold attic floor must be permeable to air and water vapor:

Illustration	Description of work
	Vapor barrier. First, you need to lay a vapor-permeable ceiling on top of the rough ceiling. waterproofing membrane. Its peculiarity is that it freely allows water vapor molecules to pass through, but does not allow bound liquid water molecules to pass through. The membrane panels must overlap each other by at least 150 mm;
	Installation of insulation. Place sheets or rolls of mineral wool in the spaces between the wooden beams. If it is very soft, then it does not need to be squeezed or squeezed much. Lay another layer of vapor-permeable membrane on top of the mineral wool. To prevent it from moving over time, it must be stapled to the beams and walls, throughout the entire area and along the perimeter of the attic.

1. Installation of foam plastic. Polymer-based insulation does not have breathable properties, so it does not allow air and moisture to pass through. There is no point in using a waterproof membrane in this case:

Illustration	Description of work
	Laying foam. Foam or extruded polystyrene panels can be laid between the cross beams, directly on top of the sub-ceiling boards. I advise laying them in two layers, so that the joints of the sheets are located in different places and do not intersect with each other.
	Polyurethane foam. To prevent the insulation sheets from moving to the sides, they can be glued to the sub-ceiling using a special glue for polystyrene foam or polyurethane foam. Thus, it is necessary to fill the entire area of ​​the attic floor with insulation. If there are gaps and cracks between the foam sheets, they must also be blown out from a balloon with polyurethane foam.

1. Clay with wood shavings. Insulating the attic floor with a sawdust-clay mixture does not require any additional materials, and is also quite simple:

Illustration	Description of work
	Preparation of the solution. To make the sawdust-clay solution plastic, the clay must be soaked in water 2-3 days before starting work. To prepare the solution, you need to take 3-4 volume parts of sawdust, and 1-2 parts of dry red clay without large solid particles and foreign impurities. Mix the soaked clay with water until a liquid, flowing solution is obtained; Add sawdust to the resulting mixture and mix thoroughly until smooth. To protect against mold formation, in ready solution you can add a small amount of copper sulfate.
	Laying sawdust-clay mixture. Lightly moisten the supporting beams and boards of the rough ceiling with liquid clay milk. After this, fill all the gaps between the beams with sawdust-clay mortar and leave for several days until completely dry.

1. Expanded clay backfill. I want to say right away that expanded clay does not have very good heat-insulating properties, therefore, in individual construction, such floor insulation is rarely used. At the same time, it is considered inexpensive, unpretentious and the easiest to install:

Illustration	Description of work
	Preparatory work. Expanded clay pellets do not absorb moisture, and therefore are not afraid of water ingress or condensation. Therefore, they can be used both with and without a waterproof membrane. To prevent condensation from seeping through the ceiling into the house, I still recommend laying a waterproofing membrane under the pellets;
	Filling of pellets. Expanded clay pellets should be poured on top of the rough ceiling boards and evenly distributed in a thick layer over the entire area of ​​the attic. No covering material is required on top of expanded clay.

To prevent expanded clay pellets from bunching up and spreading throughout the attic, a retaining plastic geogrid is used. It needs to be stretched in the spaces between the load-bearing beams, and then expanded clay should be poured into its cells.

Stage 5: Arrangement of the floor in the attic

Many residents use the cold attic in their private home as a storage room for storing long items, seasonal items and all sorts of unnecessary rubbish. In order for a person to safely walk on the insulated floor, the attic must be equipped with a durable subfloor.

The choice of material for installing the floor in the attic will depend on the type of insulation used:

Illustration	Features of application
	Mineral wool and polystyrene foam. These materials themselves are very soft. To prevent them from being destroyed or wrinkled while walking, the top floor covering must be sufficiently rigid. In such cases, it is necessary to lay on the supporting beams OSB sheets or plywood with a thickness of at least 18 mm. You can also use unplaned edged boards with a thickness of 25 or 30 mm.
	Extruded polystyrene. It has higher rigidity, so it can withstand significant loads. To prevent it from being pressed when walking, it is enough to put a light flooring of thin boards or plywood 5-9 mm thick on top of it.
	Under the weight of a person, they will crawl in different directions. To prevent this from happening, you need to lay 10 mm thick plywood sheets or light wooden ladders made of boards on top of the beam floor.
	Sawdust-clay insulation. After the solution hardens, it becomes hard like cement. A person can move freely on its surface, even without installing additional flooring.

When installing rough flooring in the attic, between boards or sheets of plywood, you should always leave gaps 15-20 mm wide. This is done so that moisture and condensation can freely evaporate from the insulation.

Conclusion

Using this algorithm of work, you can easily insulate the ceiling in the attic in own home. More visual information on each method of insulation can be viewed in the attached video in this article, and I suggest leaving all your comments and questions in the comment form.

When building a country estate, its future owners need to decide how to make the ceiling in a private house so that it is both warm and attractive. There are several options for solving the problem, but most often developers choose either a cold attic or a residential attic.

As an example, the article will consider the installation of a ceiling in a private house with gable roof when beams measuring 100x100 millimeters are placed on top of the walls - 200x200 millimeters. The height of the attic allows it to be used as an attic, which can be used as a living room or a cold storage room.

It is necessary to do depending on how you plan to use the free space under the roof:

• for residential attic room- decent ceiling and sound insulation, warm floor covering;
• for a cold room - the most important point is good thermal insulation.

When installing a ceiling in a house, you need to remember that warm air always tends upward and most of it leaves the building through the roof, so this great importance has high-quality insulation of the ceiling surface, you cannot skimp on this.

Ceiling installation when the attic is residential

. The simplest method is considered to be using ordinary boards, preferably tongue and groove. If you take an edged product, its thickness should be 25-30 millimeters. The traditional material has one important advantage, consisting in the fact that even with a large gap between the beams wooden boards do not sag, for this reason additional lathing is not required.

It should not be forgotten that:

• to fasten each board you will need at least 2 nails;
• the fasteners are driven “into the spacer” so that the angle relative to the vertical of the edge of the board is 45 degrees. Due to the fact that the nail sews the boards together, it does not allow the seam to come apart when the wood dries.

Step two - insulating the floor . For this:

• a vapor barrier layer is laid in the gap between the beams on the rough ceiling. To create it, glassine is used, but polyethylene, the most common film, is also suitable. It is necessary because soundproofing material should not fall into the cracks between the boards and not absorb moisture;
• To ensure sound insulation, 100 mm thick mineral wool is used. In practice, a mixture of sawdust and lime or dry sand is also often used as sound insulation on the ceiling. The size of the soundproofing layer should be about ¾ of the height of the beam;
• In this case, waterproofing the ceiling in a private house is not required, but when using mineral wool, its layer will prevent small fibers of the insulating material from getting into the air.

Step three - creating the flooring .

This stage involves:

• laying joists and flooring. It is advisable to use boards 30-40 millimeters thick. They also use OSB or plywood, laying them in one thick layer or in two, but with the seams overlapping with a thinner sheet;
• then they reinforce the exit point to the attic with timber, the thickness of which should be similar to this parameter for the beams. In the case when the attic is temporarily not used, the exit to it is covered with a shield in order to reduce heat loss.

Ceiling installation when the attic is cold

When the building is one-story, and only the roof is on top, the installation of the ceiling in a private house is carried out as follows.

Step one - filing the ceiling . For this you need a shield made of boards. The material for it is ordinary edged or tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 25 millimeters or more. They are fastened “in space” using long nails, leaving minimal gaps. The tongue and groove boards are hemmed with a groove from the wall, from which the installation of the cold ceiling starts.

When deciding what to make a ceiling from in a private house, you can opt for lining it in another way - plywood or OSB, at least 15 millimeters thick. But it should be taken into account that in terms of one “square” this option it turns out to be much more expensive and the possibility of the structure sagging under its own weight and the weight of the insulation increases.

As an alternative, in private houses of old construction, the board panel can be placed not below the beams, but laid on top of them. This will not reduce the height of the rooms, and living space will not decrease. If necessary, you can make a crate. You should not worry about the appearance of the rough ceiling, since finishing the ceiling in a private house will cover the surface, and beams painted in desired color, will decorate the interior of the room.

Step two - vapor barrier of the ceiling . First of all, you should take care of the vapor barrier. On the one hand, this layer should not allow dampness thermal insulation material, and on the other hand, due to radiation, reduce heat loss. This can be achieved using aluminum foil. Also used as a vapor barrier is foil insulation based on foamed polyethylene - this relatively recently appeared vapor barrier material for the ceiling creates an obstacle to heat loss due to both radiation and convection. When a chimney is laid in the ceiling, there must be a distance of at least 30 centimeters between the chimney and combustible material.

Step three - insulation of the floor . The installation of a ceiling in a private house with a cold attic involves the use of insulation materials, the choice of which is huge.

The most popular among them are:

Step four - waterproofing the floor . The waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the insulation (this does not apply only to foam plastic). For waterproofing, a special fabric is used, but if it is not available, a thick polyethylene film will do. The material is laid in strips with an overlap of approximately 10 centimeters, and the seams are taped.

Finishing the ceiling

The installation of the ceiling in a private house, when the attic is not planned to be used, is completed with finishing. Which option is best to use depends on the height of the premises. When finishing the ceiling in country house with a ceiling height of 2.7 meters or more, the ceiling lining can be done along the sheathing on a board made of boards, and if it is located above the beams, then directly on them.

If the ceilings are low, the boards are laid, as previously mentioned, on top of the floor beams, and the finished ceiling is placed between them from below. In this situation, you don’t have to do the sheathing, since different materials can be successfully attached to the tree and it won’t need to be placed horizontally. Beams are excellent at making minor irregularities invisible.

Ceiling finishing materials

Each owner of his own property, before installing a ceiling in the house, resolves issues related to the choice of finishing materials. When doing the job yourself, using plasterboard or PVC wall panels is a good option. In both cases, it is advisable to attach the ceiling along the beams to the sheathing installed strictly horizontally, since deviations from the horizontal and other surface defects will be very noticeable. At the same time, plasterboard and panels can be installed between the beams without lathing and careful alignment.

You should not use a wide baguette; a narrow L-shaped profile is used for edging PVC products. At the same time, experts advise fastening the panels perpendicular to the beams, and then there will be less waste of finishing material. There are different types of ceiling finishes in the house, but best choice the panels will become glossy white with hidden seam. When purchasing this finishing material, you should give preference to products with maximum width. When the ceiling is hemmed between the beams, then they are painted in dark colors.

Decorate ceilings decorative beams It is possible not only in private houses, but also in apartments. As additional element When creating an interior, they practice installing lamps. They are stylized as antique and hung directly from the ceiling beams, but provided that the height of the room allows this.

It is also used in a country house to whitewash the ceiling using chalk or lime.

Also in private households, painting of ceiling surfaces is carried out - today in trading network There is a large number of different paints intended for decorating rooms. It is often used in cottages and wallpapering ceilings; glass wallpaper has proven itself well.

An attic is essentially an attic space. It differs from an ordinary attic in that it is located in a building with pitched roof, consisting of: one flat and the other steep part. They give home additional area, which can be used for living space.
This roof design was developed by an architect from France named Mansart, from which the word “attic” was derived.
In those days, these premises were the abode of students, poor creative intelligentsia, and servants. And all because the attics were not insulated and were poorly protected from moisture.
But the situation has long changed: thanks to the development of the construction industry and the latest design developments, the attic space has become a full-fledged addition to a residential building. Now you can arrange almost any room in the attic space, even a kitchen and a bathroom.
Naturally, the methods of finishing attics and the choice of materials will depend on this. But before finishing the attic from the inside, you need to consistently perform several preparatory works, which we will tell you about now.

A well-made roof of a building does not guarantee that the attic will be warm and dry. To achieve this, all its surfaces need to be insulated.
The technology for this work will depend on whether external thermal insulation of the roof was performed during the construction of the house:

• If yes, then it will be easier to additionally insulate the slopes: you can simply hem them with fiberboard, clapboard or plasterboard, laying them under the sheathing thin layer polyethylene foam or isolon. It is better to use foil options, they prevent the formation of condensation.

• Well, if the roof slopes were not insulated, you will need to do this work from the inside. Then insulation and finishing of the attic will require the sequential laying of several layers, the first of which will be a waterproofing membrane.

• Fixed waterproofing film counter-battens directly to the wooden roof sheathing. Only after this will it be possible to lay the thermal insulation.
  To insulate roof slopes, it is better to choose soft, and as thick as possible, roll insulation.
• Slab materials are not very suitable for this, especially if the roof is hipped or has another complex configuration. They are best used for wall insulation.

• The method of attaching the thermal insulation layer depends on the roof structure. If there is a small step between the rafters, you can choose a material whose width is slightly larger than this distance.
  Then the insulation fits tightly between the rafters and does not require additional fastening.

• When the distance between the rafters is large, bars with a small cross-section are used to attach the insulation. In this case, first a wire is pulled between the rafters, fixed with self-tapping screws, and insulation is already laid on it.
  The best way is to watch a video on this topic.
• If you use ordinary mineral wool, then you will need to stick on top of it vapor barrier film, and only then fasten this entire structure with bars. It is much easier to use a material with a ready-made vapor barrier layer.

• When insulating attic walls, you can do without a waterproofing layer, but only if you use polyurethane foam materials as insulation.
• Mineral wool tends to get wet and rot. It is better not to use polystyrene foam for this, because it is highly flammable and quite toxic when burned.
• It is very good if there is a gap between the waterproofing and the insulation to ensure ventilation of the insulation. When doing the work with your own hands, do not forget that all wooden structural elements must be treated with an antiseptic composition.
• If your house has external thermal insulation of the walls, then the attic gables will not need to be insulated. But it’s still better to insulate the floor, especially if there is a sleeping area in the attic.
• To insulate the floor, it is better to use loose insulation: expanded clay or expanded polystyrene foam - this is very convenient, and the penny price of the material allows you to significantly save your budget.
• The floor is covered plastic film, install wooden logs, and pour insulation into the resulting cells. It is filled with liquid cement mortar on top, in which the reinforcing mesh is embedded.
  You can find more detailed instructions on how to install such a floor on the Internet.

When the solution has set, it will be possible to make a screed, and the floor will be ready for further finishing.
This method of floor insulation creates excellent sound insulation, as well as reliable waterproofing premises. You can even install a bathroom or kitchen in the attic without fear that water will leak down.
An example of finishing an attic floor for a bathroom in the photo above.

Decorative finishing of the attic

It is natural that interior decoration and insulation of the attic depend on how you will use this room. Most often, in the attic space they arrange living room: bedroom or children's room, although there are exceptions.

Wood in attics

Reflecting on the question: “What is the best way to decorate the attic?” - you start going through everything possible options. And the first thing that comes to mind is a tree.
Most likely, this association arises because the load-bearing roof structures are made of this particular material.

• In addition, finishing the attic with wood creates additional thermal insulation, as well as a unique microclimate filled with woody aroma. With remarkable properties natural wood no other type of finishing materials can compete – that’s a fact.

• Clapboard, which is most often used for finishing work, is the most simple option sheathing
  There are five types of profiles of this board, and several standard sizes. Its installation can be done in various ways.
• The location of the board on the surface can be horizontal or vertical, diagonally, in a circle, or herringbone. This creates a specific pattern and breaks the monotony of the surface.

• Using lining as a finishing material, you can zone the attic by painting each zone in its own color. The picture above is very good example such an interior solution.
  Columns with beautiful decoration also play a significant role in this.

• Finishing the attic with wood can be done in another way - using wooden panels. They can be made either from solid wood or as typesetting slatted panels from the same lining.
• It can be MDF options covered with wood or bamboo veneer. As a budget option, laminated and veneered fiberboard panels are used.
  Wooden panels They are good both for wall decoration and for installing suspended ceilings.
• Attic finishing MDF panels is carried out if this room is used as an office or sports room. It is not customary to do such cladding in bedrooms - the interior will be associated with some kind of office.
  Therefore, they are combined with other types of finishes, for example with wallpaper, decorative plaster and painting.

Few people know that a new finishing material– wooden wallpaper. They are a set of panels made of profiled wooden elements, glued to the base.
Wood is mainly used for the production of this wallpaper. coniferous species. Their thickness does not exceed two centimeters, with a width of 1.2 meters and a length varying from two to six meters.
Such panels are glued to the wall, like regular wallpaper, and allow you to quickly and beautifully decorate a room with a wood look.

Ceiling beams

The main decoration of the attic interior can be ceiling beams. Depending on the roof structure, these beams may be load-bearing, rather than hollow false beams that are used in ground floor rooms.

So:

• Rafters can also play this role - just decorate them carefully. The examples we have given of finishing the attic floor, using ceiling beams, clearly show how beautiful and original it is.

Wherein decorative finishing walls can be the simplest - they attract all attention to themselves beam structures, necessarily having contrasting color, in relation to other surfaces. Original ceiling lamps, in harmony with the beams, also play a big role in such an interior.

Plasterboard structures

As we have already said, there is nothing in the attic space that could interfere with the implementation of any structure: partitions, columns, arches, suspended ceilings. The main thing is that it is spacious.
You can divide the room into zones using any of these elements.

So:

• The final finishing of attics lined with plasterboard can be a painted surface acrylic paint, covered with wallpaper. Often the attic has a good height - this is what most apartments in multi-storey buildings lack.
• Sometimes it even needs to be hidden, so dropped ceilings made of plasterboard can have several levels and deviate from the base surface not by 10-12 cm, but much more.

• IN design projects, in the attic there are even suspended ceilings. In the top photo, walls are made of plasterboard and tension glossy ceiling milky color, create a wonderful living room interior.
  Good things contribute to this daylight attics.
• Not all attic spaces have a sufficient number of windows. If there are no windows in the roof slopes, but only small windows on the gable walls, in terms of lighting you have to rely more on lighting fixtures.

That is why the finishing of the attic is clean, done mainly in light colors. Only some interior elements can be dark.
The example above shows a very popular technique for finishing a wall as an extension of the ceiling. It looks like this: along the head of the bed, which faces the wall, a strip of wallpaper with a thick pattern is pasted.
The pattern usually contrasts with a light surface and visually elongates the room in height.

Other types of finishing

Designers constantly come up with ideas that may seem unusual. But that’s what’s different designer finishing.
And often, for the interior design of attics, they use those materials that are intended for exterior decoration of facades.

So:

• This includes materials such as vinyl and aluminum siding, different kinds composite panels, HPL plastic panels. Some manufacturers even offer complete options designed specifically for finishing the attic.
• Such kits are made for a specific object, according to preliminary measurements - this is called individual design. In this case, the finishing of the attic is the assembly of a certain structure, which is done quickly and without unnecessary dirt.

• Attic walls lined with HPL panels look especially good. These anti-vandal facade panels made of plastic high pressure, have extraordinary strength, dielectric and thermal insulation properties, and practically do not absorb moisture.

• The production of this material is carried out simultaneously with the pressing of the top decorative layer. As a result of this technology, compact, non-porous, hygienic panels with a strict geometric shape are obtained.

There are options with double-sided finishing, and different ones. So the surface design can be created by simply turning the panel one way or the other.
We told you about the most interesting options finishing attic space, but the choice, of course, is entirely yours.

Ceilings with wooden beams are found in the old ones apartment buildings, and in private low-rise construction. Unlike concrete floors Such ceilings provide enormous scope for imagination; they can become the basis for decor in any style.

Features of the installation of ceilings on beams

Typically used as floor beams timber with a section of 150x150 or 150x200 or boards sewn together 50x150 or 150x100. These materials provide sufficient strength and allow you to make the lining from almost any material.

The ceilings can be interfloor or attic. In the first case, they separate the heated rooms, so only sound insulation is required. It is performed using mineral or basalt wool, which additionally have heat-insulating properties. A sufficient layer of thermal insulation is required in attic floors.

To protect the insulation from moisture vapor and liquid leaks, vapor and waterproofing is also necessary. It is made using special films from nonwoven material. The ceiling pie is shown in the figure.

Purpose of the elements of the ceiling pie:

• vapor barrier film prevents the penetration of moisture vapor from inside the room;
• sheathing made of slats, onto which the finishing sheathing is later mounted;
• sound or heat insulation in the form of mats or slabs;
• waterproofing - vapor-permeable diffusion membrane.

With this arrangement of floors, the decorative finishing of the ceiling will be protected from deformation, moisture and condensation, regardless of the material chosen.

There are two ways to hem a decorative ceiling covering:

• completely sewing up and hiding the beams under the trim;
• using them as a decorative element.

In the case of hemming from below, insulation and sound insulation are laid between the beams. A vapor barrier and a finished ceiling are hemmed underneath, and a waterproofing membrane and the floor of the upper floor or attic are placed on top. This method is used when the ceiling height is sufficient, when there is no need to save space.

When using beams in ceiling decoration finishing laid on top of beams or hemmed to bars secured to their side surface. A vapor barrier is laid over the beams, floor joists are placed on top, and insulation is laid between them. A layer of waterproofing and floors are laid on top.

In this case, the beams can be additionally covered with boards and painted in a suitable shade. Using this technique you can do stylish ceiling without reducing its height - it will not put pressure and visually reduce the space.

Materials for filing the ceiling

After properly installing the floors, you can line the ceiling with almost any materials.

The most popular of them:

• board or lining;
• plastic panels;
• MDF panels;
• drywall;
• suspended ceilings made of fabric or PVC film;
• ceiling tiles.

An interesting effect can also be achieved by combining different materials, for example, plasterboard with lining or suspended ceilings. Using a combination different textures can be achieved not only interesting design, but also to make the ceiling more practical, hide defects in the beams and highlight the advantages of the room.

Original version - plasterboard ceiling with projecting beams

Natural wood

For cladding the ceiling, use graded coniferous or hardwood wood: lining, block house, imitation timber or regular edged board. This finish will fit well into the interior if the walls are fully or partially covered with natural wood.

Prices for lining

Sheathing a ceiling with boards is quite simple. Because the wooden floors and the sheathing have the same coefficient of thermal expansion; the boards can be attached directly to the beams using screws or nails.

Important! To extend service life, wood trim process special compounds, painted or fired wood and then varnished.

Advantages of the material:

• low price;
• goes well with other finishing materials;
• installation is easy to do with your own hands;
• environmentally friendly material;
• can be painted in any shade.

• Requires regular treatment or painting to protect against aging;
• fire hazard.

Plastic panels

This finish is well suited for rooms where high humidity: bathroom, kitchen, loggia or balcony. Plastic is not afraid of condensation and splashes of water.

Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels is quite simple. The panels are attached to special guides or with self-tapping screws directly to the beams only if they are well aligned and in the same plane. If it is necessary to level the height, slats are attached to the beams below, and panels are attached to them.

The individual strips are connected using a tongue-and-groove lock, thereby creating a smooth surface without cracks or gaps. If you miss the connections silicone sealant, you can create a vapor-tight lining.

Important! When finishing with plastic, a device is required exhaust ventilation, otherwise condensation may form.

Advantages of the material:

• low price and large assortment of shades;
• light weight, no load on the floors;
• does not require painting or processing;
• The panels are not afraid of moisture, do not rot, and can be easily washed with warm water.

• plastic is a fire hazard; it is undesirable to use it in rooms with stove heating;
• The material is fragile, chips and damage are possible.

Prices for ceiling panels

ceiling panels

MDF panels

The difference between MDF panels and plastic ones is that they do not tolerate moisture and become deformed when wet. Therefore, they cannot be used in the bathroom and on the balcony. MDF panels often imitate the texture of wood, so they can be used instead of lining or boards, since their processing and fitting are much simpler and their weight is less. They are attached in the same way as plastic ones directly to beams or slats.

Advantages of the material:

• inexpensive and easy to process;
• good thermal insulation properties;
• light weight.

• fade when exposed to direct sunlight;
• due to their small thickness they are prone to sagging, they need to be fastened in increments of no more than 60 cm, and the construction of an additional frame may be required.

Drywall

This material is very popular not only for conventional ceiling finishing, but also for creating multi-level structures with built-in lamps. With its help, you can sew up niches between beams or completely hide them and create a completely even coating.

Plasterboard ceilings are puttied and painted with water-based interior paints in any desired shade. The ceiling, finished with gypsum plasterboard sheets, fits well into different interior, that's why it's so popular. Plasterboard finishing can be combined with wood or suspended ceilings.

Installing drywall on a ceiling is more difficult than wood or panels. Due to the different coefficient of thermal expansion and the large size of the sheets, they cannot be attached directly to the beams. Drywall is mounted on special hangers and guides that have a flexible connection with the ceiling beams.

Drywall prices

drywall

Important! In rooms with stove heating or a fireplace, it is better to use fire-resistant drywall that does not support combustion.

Advantages of the material:

• it is inexpensive;
• easy to process and allows you to create any designs, including curved ones;
• easily painted in any shade;
• the material breathes and does not contribute to the formation of condensation;
• goes well with any decoration.

• the rather heavy structure creates a load on the floors;
• afraid of water leaks, deformed and wet;
• fragile material, may break if impacted.

Stretch ceiling

With the help of suspended ceilings, you can completely close the beams or niches between them, while the structures are fastened to the walls. Stretch ceilings are distinguished by a richness of textures, shades and shapes; they allow you to install built-in lamps and hide ceiling defects. You can use them in combination with other types of finishes.

It is not easy to install suspended ceilings yourself, so for high-quality finishing it is better to seek the help of professionals. They will help you choose material and design, as well as install lighting.

Important! When installing suspended ceilings, it is necessary to ensure ventilation of the under-ceiling space, otherwise condensation may occur.

Advantages of suspended ceilings:

• richness of textures, shades and shapes;
• durability and strength;
• the material is not afraid of moisture and leaks;
• does not require painting or finishing, washes well;
• goes well with types of finishes.

• quite expensive material;
• installation requires skills and special equipment.

Prices for suspended ceilings

suspended ceiling

The cheapest, but short-lived option. The tiles are lightweight and easy to install with glue, but due to their small size they may require the installation of additional sheathing.

Important! Ceiling tiles It burns well, while emitting toxic substances and acrid smoke. It cannot be used in houses with stove heating!

Advantages of the material:

• light weight;
• low price;
• not afraid of water;
• easy installation.

• fire hazard;
• breaks easily;
• looks pretty cheap.

Combination of finishes

To create a unique interior, you can combine some types of finishes. Combination different types ceiling coverings along the beams are shown in the table.

Table. A combination of different types of ceiling finishes.

Do-it-yourself ceiling installation technology on beams

Installation of the ceiling occurs in several stages, which should not be neglected - this can worsen the appearance and affect the service life of the ceiling. Before starting work, you should calculate and purchase everything necessary materials and prepare the instrument.

Beam processing

Before proceeding with the ceiling, it is necessary to treat the beams with a complex impregnation for wood - fire bioprotection - and then dry them thoroughly. This will increase their service life and eliminate rotting, insect damage and deterioration of load-bearing capacity.

Prices for ceiling tiles

ceiling tiles

To ensure the ceiling is level, the beams must be checked laser level or using a string stretched between the outer beams and diagonally across the room. If there are significant unevennesses, leveling must be done.

When completely lining the ceiling along the bottom plane of the beams, make flat ceiling possible using a counter-lattice. To install it, you will need a 40x60 or 50x50 block or a profile for plasterboard.

The beams from below are covered with a film vapor barrier, securing it with a construction stapler. The joints are overlapped and taped with metallized tape.

The beam is attached to the beams in the transverse direction using self-tapping screws. Small unevenness can be leveled by wooden spacers between the block and the beam. If the difference between the beams is significant, it is better to use U-shaped drywall brackets.

When partially filling the niches between the beams, on both sides of the beams, level bars are attached to self-tapping screws. The vapor barrier is laid on the upper floor side on top of the beams. The lining is hemmed to the beams, and the beams themselves are leveled with a finishing board or imitation timber.

Sheathing is carried out directly along the beams or along the leveling counter-lattice, starting from the more visible wall of the room.

1. Measure the board of the required length locally or using a tape measure. Cut with a jigsaw from the wrong side - this way the cut on the outside will be smoother.
2. The board is secured with screws or nails. The first board is fixed at all points of intersection with the counter-lattice. To make the attachment point invisible, you can use one of the techniques shown in the figure.
3. The tongue-and-groove facing board or lining is tapped until the tongue-and-groove lock is completely connected. wooden hammer or through a block, after which they are secured to the outer bars of the sheathing. You can attach them to the intermediate bars in a checkerboard pattern, one at a time, to avoid unnecessary damage to the board.
4. After covering the entire ceiling, the joints with the wall are finished with plinths made of wood or polymer.
5. The board is coated with water-based paint or wood impregnation.

If only the niches between the beams are covered with boards, the trim is attached to pre-nailed bars. Otherwise, the filing technology is the same. In a similar way, the ceiling is hemmed with plastic and MDF panels, but in order to avoid chipping the material, it is recommended to pre-drill small-diameter holes in the panels at the attachment point.

The main difference from board cladding is the need to use a special galvanized profile for drywall to avoid deformation of the ceiling.

1. The profile is secured using hangers or U-shaped brackets along the beams, the transverse profiles are secured so as to create a sheathing with dimensions that allow joining gypsum board sheets on the profile.
2. Drywall sheets are cut using a sharp knife, hacksaw or jigsaw.
3. Attach the drywall to the sheathing using self-tapping screws, trying to drown them into the material by 1 mm.
4. The joints between the sheets are puttied using sickle tape, sanded and puttyed again finishing putty. The fastening points on screws and other irregularities are also rubbed down.
5. Paint the ceiling with acrylic or water-based interior paint using a roller. After drying, you can apply a second layer for a more even tone.

Types of ceiling cladding along beams can be combined to create a unique style and design. Under the skin you can place not only insulation and sound insulation, but also communications: electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, pipes.

Properly installed casing and ceilings reliably protect from extraneous sounds and heat leaks, and if you show your imagination, with the help of ceiling decoration you can give the room unique design and comfort.

Video - How to hem a ceiling on wooden beams