Step-by-step installation of flexible tiles. Installation instructions for soft roofing - detailed technology for high-quality installation of the covering. Consumption and method of applying sealing adhesive

One of the significant advantages of a flexible roof is the relative ease of its installation. Nevertheless, there are still some features of working with this roofing covering, which we will discuss in this article. Having mastered simple technology work, you can easily prepare the base and lay the tiles efficiently.

Overall installation flexible tiles Quite simple, the tools you will need are a hammer, a sectioning knife, a spatula and a glue gun.

Preparing the base

The base for a flexible roof must be solid and have a high modulus of elasticity. To do this, OSB or moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of at least 9 mm is laid on the rafters. The pitch of the lathing under the covering should not exceed 90-120 cm; in other cases, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the slabs or plywood to 20 mm, or use a counter-lattice. It has the additional advantage of optimizing the ventilation of the under-roof space and preventing the formation of condensation in the roofing pie.

At the joints, a height difference of more than 2 mm is not allowed; it is also important to have 3-4 mm between the plates thermal gap. Any violations of the correct geometry: deviation from flatness, non-parallelism of cornices to ridges, curvature of valleys do not interfere with installation, but are somehow reflected in the appearance of the coating.

Underlay carpet flooring

The solid sheathing must be cleaned of dirt and covered with a lining carpet, which serves as an additional layer of waterproofing and a buffer layer that prevents the accumulation of migrating moisture.

Underlayment carpet is a rolled material that is rolled out over the entire surface of the roof at a slope of up to 30°. On steeper slopes, it is allowed to protect only the most vulnerable places: cornices, ridges, gable overhangs and abutments.

When laying continuously on slopes with a slight slope, the roll is rolled out horizontally, starting from the eaves. Each layer is stretched and nailed over the top edge with roofing nails in increments of 15-20 cm, releasing the carpet from the eaves and gable overhangs by 2-3 cm. The nails should have a length 1-1.5 cm longer than the thickness of the continuous sheathing and stitch it through.

After laying the carpet, remove the protective films from the edges of the overlap and lightly press down the edges with an adhesive base. On steep slopes, for convenience, you can roll out the carpet vertically, nailing it at the top. If the length of the carpet is not enough, it can be extended by connecting the lining with an overlap of 15 cm and gluing the joint with bitumen glue.

Treatment of valleys

If there are valleys on the roof, laying the carpet should begin with them. The roll is rolled out in the direction of the valley and the edges are secured with nails in increments of 20-30 cm. Strips of carpet on the slopes are laid over the valley lining by 15 cm and cut obliquely parallel to the line of its center. The overlapping areas must be treated with bitumen glue and pressed well together.

Laying tiles also begins with the valleys. After installing the planks on the eaves, a special valley carpet is rolled out along the inner surface of the valley, which has the color and texture of the tiles. It is carefully leveled and the side edges are secured with nails every 10-15 cm. The lower part is cut with a knife along the line of the eaves tiles and glued to the metal strip.

Laying the starting row

Laying the tiles begins from the eaves. First, an L-shaped cornice strip is stuffed along the entire lower perimeter, which covers the joint of the cornice overhang and the downward-curved edge of the lining carpet. The planks are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm and nailed with roofing nails in two rows with a pitch of 8-12 cm. To join the planks, you need to cut off the bend in the short part of the plank with scissors to the length of the overlap and place a new plank under the already nailed one, then fasten the joint 2- 3 nails.

Next comes the installation of the starting row of tiles with eaves shingles or tape. They have a smooth edge, which is placed at a distance of 1-2 cm from the edge of the overhang. The bottom surface of the eaves tiles is adhesive: they are simply pressed onto the cleaned and degreased metal strips; there is no need to secure them with nails.

Ordinary tiles

The shingles of ordinary tiles are laid starting from the outer edge of the eaves. It is necessary to mix tiles from 4-5 packages to avoid possible color deviations. Before installation, the teeth of the shingles are removed protective film, exposing the adhesive backing.

The first row of tiles is laid on top of the cornice row so that the edges of the teeth are 1-2 cm higher than the edge. Each shingle of row tiles is nailed 3-4 cm above the protrusion of the teeth, so that the nail also presses the previous row. Each subsequent row of tiles is laid with the teeth flush with the top edge of the cutouts of the previous row. The side edges of the shingles meet without overlap; some manufacturers even have interlocking cutouts at the edges.

The ends of ordinary tiles on gable overhangs are trimmed flush with the edge and secured with bitumen glue. In the valleys, the edges of the row tiles are cut obliquely so that the edge is 12 cm from the center and the overlap is also glued across the entire width.

Installation and sealing of leads, connections

The best option to connect to the chimney well is to knock down a neck 15-20 cm high from plywood around it. A gap of several millimeters is needed between the wall and the masonry so that the roof and neck can move relative to the well. The upper edge of the neck is nailed to the masonry using quick installation.

The surface of the neck is covered with bitumen glue and covered with pieces of valley carpet, laid over ordinary tiles and turning the corners at 15 cm. Metal cladding the well is lowered to a level of 2-3 cm from the roof surface, thus closing the neck gap. The connection to the gables of multi-tiered roofs is carried out similarly.

For installation of ventilation outlets from the attic and the roofing pie layer, special rubber cuffs are used. They are placed on bitumen glue on top of the carpet, then coated with glue again and covered with ordinary tiles, making cuts in it as precise as possible. The ends at the junction points are thoroughly sealed with bitumen glue.

Wind bars and skates

Cornices or wind strips can be used to frame gable overhangs. The first ones are mounted on top of the lining carpet along with the finishing of the eaves overhangs. There is no need to trim the planks at the corners: they are laid overlapping and the corner is secured with five nails. Thus, the framing of the cornices and wind overhangs is the same.

This is not entirely convenient if there is a thick end of the roof sheathing that needs to be covered. In this case, special wind strips are used. They are U-shaped or L-shaped; the height of the bar is selected according to the thickness of the end. At the top corner there may be a side for framing overhangs with a triangular bead at the end.

Such strips are attached on top of ordinary tiles, applying glue to 2/3 of the distance from the edge, which will be covered with metal. Wind strips are attached to the end with self-tapping screws for corrugated sheeting.

After laying the ordinary tiles, they are cut at the ridges end-to-end without overlap, and then the joint is closed with ridge tiles. In the presence of hip skates they start with them, laying the petals from bottom to top. Most manufacturers ridge tiles are segments eaves shingles or tapes. They are laid with an overlap of 5-7 cm, nailing one edge, which will be covered by the petal of the next row.

Features of winter installation

The tiles can only be laid in dry weather at an air temperature of +5...12 ° C, depending on the manufacturer’s requirements. It is also possible to lay tiles at a lower temperature, but this requires keeping the roofing elements at a temperature of +20 °C for 24 hours before installation. When installing tiles, it is necessary to warm up each new shingle and the surface of the previous row in the area where the adhesive base adheres with a construction hair dryer.

In most cases, it makes sense to use a so-called “warmhouse” in winter. This is a frame made of galvanized profile, built around a building or a certain section of the roof. The frame is covered with a sealed dome made of polyethylene film. To maintain the desired temperature, use an electric or gas heat gun.

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Of course, no owner will refuse to have a reliable and at the same time quite affordable roof on his home. A well-planned manual installation will not only protect all structures from bad weather and possible damage, but also save significant volume financial resources. So, all of these qualities are possessed by an innovative soft roof made of flexible tiles, the basis of which is bitumen. Therefore, it is important to understand how to properly install a roof made of flexible tiles.

It is necessary to study in detail how flexible tiles are laid, the installation technology of which has some of its own characteristics. Only strict adherence to each stage of its installation will allow you to create a reliable and durable roof. Exactly about technical specifications soft tiles, as well as the method of their installation will be discussed further.

What are flexible tiles made of?

Roofing made from this material also has some other names, such as shingles, shingles or roofing tiles. The main advantages of such a roof are its light weight (the weight of one sheet is on average 8 kilograms) and its not too high cost compared to metal tiles. Thanks to the first indicator, the structure of the house is not so massive, which allows you to save on construction materials and labor costs, and the second characteristic allows the roof to seriously compete with other, heavier roofing types.

The basis of such tiles is usually fiberglass or fiberglass (less commonly, organic cellulose) impregnated with bitumen. These materials perform the functions of so-called reinforcement, which holds two layers of SBS modifier together, which directly affects the flexibility and elasticity of the coating. Outside, the material is sprinkled with slate, mineral chips and basalt granulate. They are able not only to protect the material from damage, but also to give it a variety of shades of color.

Preparatory work for laying soft tiles

The basis for soft tiles is particle board, moisture-resistant plywood or boards. When choosing boards, you need to carefully select high-quality material. The best option will be the use of planed tongue and groove boards. If its thickness is 2 centimeters, then rafter step should be 6 meters. With a thickness of 2.5 - 3 centimeters, the step can be 1.2 meters. The minimum thickness of plywood is a distance of 1.2 centimeters (rafter pitch is 6 meters), with a thickness of 2 centimeters, the rafter pitch is 1.2 meters. One way or another, the joints of the material must correspond rafter legs. When working with a material such as flexible tiles, it is recommended to treat the installation of the base with an antiseptic. It is important that the boards used during installation are dry. The base coating should be hard and even.

In addition to the coating itself and the base material, during installation you cannot do without the following elements:

• underlay carpet, which can be represented by any bitumen roll material, provided that the roof made of flexible tiles is new. For an old roof, you can also use roofing felt that has already been used;
• valley carpet, the role of which is bitumen material using polymers, necessary to protect walls and ventilation pipes from moisture.

When laying carpet, you must use the following materials:

• roofing sealant or mastic;
• construction hot air gun;
• knife for cutting material;
• three types of nails: regular, roofing and galvanized;
• construction strips required for processing junctions, cornice and front.

When all the parts have already been assembled and the installation of flexible tiles is carried out, the instructions require compliance with the following set of rules when working:

1. Initially with inside the roof must be secured with a vapor barrier film. The material is attached to the rafter legs with nails, and to the ends with wooden planks. The film strips are connected using tape.
2. After this, already from outside you need to lay insulation, to fix which it is customary to use wooden blocks.
3. A film is placed on the insulation to protect the roof from the wind. To fasten it, a counter beam is used, to which the sheathing will need to be nailed.
4. After this, boards, strand board or plywood are laid. The material is secured with nails equipped with a wide head or self-tapping screws.

Laying flexible tiles

When arranging a roof with soft tiles, you should first of all take into account temperature conditions, since the structure of the material requires a special approach. Greatest strength connecting shingle elements to each other will only be ensured heat, sun and absence of any precipitation, and installation of flexible tiles in winter is not recommended, since this may lead to the falling off of the slightly previously glued tiles (read: ""). Sometimes in cold weather it is permissible to use a hot air gun to heat the coating sheets. You can also heat the adjacent attic (attic) space.

1. Initially, the installation of the lining carpet is carried out. It must be spread and nailed over the following areas of the roof:- cornice;
   - ;
   - valleys;
   - skate;
   - places where the roof slope is broken.
   
   Provided that the roof slope is more than 20 degrees, the lining carpet must cover the entire roof area. You need to start work from the bottom, and the carpet should be perpendicular to the sheathing. It is nailed with an overlap (width - 15 centimeters) with a fixing step of 20 centimeters. It is important that each of the connections is carefully processed using bitumen mastic or special roofing sealant. A cornice strip is nailed onto the spread carpet, designed to protect the sheathing from moisture. If this is not possible, then the cornice strip is simply folded under the sheathing base. They nail it down using galvanized nails in 5-centimeter increments.
   

   
   

2. Then work on the construction of the pediment is carried out. It also needs to be nailed end strips, which are designed to provide protection to the wooden sheathing and remove moisture down from the ridge. After installing them, you can begin installing the ridge-eaves covering strips, which can simply be represented by soft tiles with cut off edges. Nail them joint to joint, retreating 2.5 centimeters from the edge. It is recommended to treat these areas with bitumen-based mastic; it is also used to secure the free edges. At this stage of the work, it is also worthwhile to fix the drainage elements - brackets that are used under the gutter.
3. Flexible roof the installation of which has some peculiarities and requires the laying of a valley carpet. It needs to be laid on top of the main one, that is, as a second layer. This carpet should be located in areas of junctions, recesses and other places that are optimal for the accumulation of excess moisture. It is fastened using galvanized nails in increments of 10 centimeters, and the edges are processed bitumen mastic. If possible, it is better to use special glue - waterproof.
4. It is after completing all these procedures that you should proceed directly to. The material must be from different packages, since the sheets in them have different shades. After completing the installation work, under the influence of the sun, the material will gradually acquire a uniform color. You need to start laying from the bottom of the central section of the slope. The adhesive part of the material must be stripped of the protective film, and the coating must be pressed tightly to the base. It must be nailed on top using 4 nails, departing 4 - 5 centimeters from the ridge-eaves strip. The petals of the material should completely cover the perforation of the strip located below. From the edges of the gable line, the coating should be cut to the required length and treated with mastic.
   

   
   

5. Extremely important point is also the intersection with the chimney and ventilation systems. The underlayment carpet should be installed initially in this area. The ventilation base should be treated with bitumen mastic. Next, you need to select one of the fragments of flexible tiles and make a hole in it corresponding to the ventilation device (read: ""). After finishing laying the coating, the base must be treated with mastic again.

Working with a chimney is more difficult. At the point where it contacts the roof, three triangular slats should be nailed, located at right angles to the pipe. Then a lining carpet is laid around the chimney, which is overlapped and treated with the same mastic (read also: "

Roofing made from flexible tiles is distinguished by its aesthetic appearance and durability. However, neither one nor the other can be achieved if the installation technology is broken. We invite you to familiarize yourself with step by step instructions for laying flexible tiles.

Installation of tiles

1. Installation of the base

Requires a level and solid base. The plank flooring of the roof structure must be durable, dry, level and well ventilated from the inside. It can be made from moisture-resistant plywood or sheets of oriented strand board (OSB-3). The flooring can also be made from tightly fitted edged boards 25 mm thick, however, it is better to use moisture-resistant oriented strand boards (OSB-3) or FSF brand plywood as often as not. In both cases, 3-5 mm thick gaps must be made between the sheets to compensate for wood deformations. The thickness of the sheet material is chosen based on the pitch of the sheathing boards and the slopes of the slopes, but in any case it should be at least 9 mm.

Pay attention to the shade - it may differ slightly in different packs, therefore, in order to create a color balance on the roof, shingles from 4-7 packs are mixed with each other. It is better to install the roof in dry weather with minimum temperature ambient air up to + 5 degrees. If this is not possible, then the roof for flexible tiles is prepared in advance: the shingles are kept in a warm room for about a day after transportation. And at the stage of attaching shingles, it is best to serve packs from a warm room, about 5-6 packs each, and during the process of attaching shingles, it is better to warm up the adhesive layer with a hair dryer.

2. Fastening the eaves boards

Cornice boards suffer from moisture, but gutters are usually attached to them. Strengthen and protect the eaves with a special metal strip. The cornice is reinforced with painted metal cornice strips. They are attached to the boardwalk with special roofing nails in checkerboard pattern- in increments of 12-15 cm. The overlap of the planks should be 30-50 mm.

3. Selecting underlay carpet

The carpet is made from two types of material. In the valleys and on the cornices, a self-adhesive underlay carpet with a very durable polyester rot-resistant base and a fine-grained sand topping is used.

Along the internal fractures of the roof (valleys), a valley carpet should be laid on top of the lining carpet; the back side of its edge needs to be coated with mastic to a width of about 10 cm.

For the rest of the area, you can use a lightweight lining material with a base made of rot-resistant polyester and a non-slip polypropylene coating, or a material with a fiberglass base and double-sided topping with mechanical fixation and an adhesive layer in places of horizontal overlaps.

4. Laying underlay carpets

Due to the capillary effect and under the influence of wind, moisture can seep under the coating. For additional sealing, use self-adhesive (at the eaves overhangs) and fixed with nails (on the rest of the roof area) lining carpets.

The lining carpet is made from a special roll material. It makes it more airtight and will be better if it is laid over the entire roof area. The carpet is rolled out horizontally, from the eaves overhang with horizontal overlaps of at least 10 cm. It is important to take into account that on this overhang the material should deviate from the bend by 1-2 cm (for an average roof). The width of the indentation depends on the length and angle of inclination of the slope itself.

Entrances to the cornice and gable, as well as overlapping areas, are coated with bitumen mastic using a spatula. The thickness of the mastic is no more than 1 mm. At the end of the installation, the rolled material is carefully fixed at the edges with roofing nails with a wide head. Step - 20-25 cm.

5. Strengthening the gable overhang

The gable part of the roof needs protection from ultraviolet radiation, moisture, wind, and mechanical influences.

To do this, painted metal end strips are attached to the gable overhangs, on top of the underlayment, which are coated during the process of laying the tiles themselves. TO load-bearing structure Roof strips are fastened with roofing nails in 10-15 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

6. Valley device

The valley, as is known, has a concave corner that collects the most amount of moisture, therefore correct installation roofing pie in this place will largely ensure reliable operation building.

Let's consider the so-called “open” method of installing a valley. On top of the lining carpet, along the axis of the valley, a special roofing material is laid - a valley carpet, for example, from TechnoNIKOL. Along the perimeter of the back side it is coated with bitumen mastic to a width of 10-12 cm.

On the front side, the carpet is nailed with roofing nails at a distance of 2-3 cm from the edge. Fastening pitch: 20-25 cm.

7. Laying tiles

For convenience, before installing a roof made of flexible tiles and maintaining the required geometry on the underlayment, make horizontal and vertical markings.

In this case, the vertical lines should correspond to the width of one sheet, the horizontal lines - about 80 cm, this is approximately five rows of flexible tiles. Please note that the markings are simply a guide and not a mounting diagram.

• Laying begins horizontally along the cornice. The first strip is made using universal ridge-eaves tiles. You can also use an ordinary one from the selected collection, but you will need to cut off the tile “petals” from the shingles.
• The sheets are glued from the 1-2 cm bend of the cornice, and additionally nailed. If an ordinary trimmed version is used as a “start”, then the back side of the shingles must be coated with mastic where there is no adhesive layer.
• The second row is mounted from the center of the slope - offset to the left or right by half the “petal”.
• Next, the installation proceeds diagonally from the center of the slope in the form of a strip or pyramid. The elements are laid with an overlap of at least 15 cm with an adhesive layer. It is located on the back of the shingles. Additionally, the shingles are attached to the base of the roof using special galvanized nails with wide heads.
• From the outside gable overhang It is necessary to cut off the top corner of the shingle to drain rainwater. The shingle itself should be moved back 2 cm relative to the overhang. This is necessary for free flow of water. Also, to protect it from slanting rain, it must be coated in the gable area with mastic to a depth of 10 cm.

8. Laying a tiled valley

When the laying process has reached the valley, then at this node the shingles of flexible tiles are laid in a chaotic order on top of the valley carpet, after which they are cut so that the central axis of the valley becomes open, 5-15 cm wide (see figure below).

When cutting, a board should be placed under the shingles so as not to damage the underlying ones. insulation materials. After that, the back areas of the sheets of flexible tiles, which do not have an adhesive layer at the junction with the valley, are coated with mastic. Each shingle is fixed with roofing nails in the upper part no closer than 30 cm from the axis of the valley.

9. Installation of slope ribs

The edges of the slopes are formed by shingles with special ridge-eaves tiles. Laying is done from bottom to top, and is attached to the base with four nails - two on each side.

10. Installing shingles

The shingles of the overlying row must be moved relative to the shingles of the underlying row by at least 15 cm. The shingles forming the roof joint are trimmed along the axis. Then a cut is made in the underlayment and the roof structure itself for the passage of air - at a certain interval and indentation from the edge of the roof.

11. Coating with aerator

In case the ridge is covered with plastic roof aerator. He will allow excess moisture freely exit the under-roof space. The aerator is covered with ridge-eaves tiles; each element is fixed with two nails. Laying should be done from the side opposite to the prevailing wind direction.

12. Installation of junctions

The junctions mainly include the joints of the roof slope with horizontal and inclined walls, as well as chimneys. At the junction of the slope and the wall, a wooden triangular strip is nailed onto which the junction element is placed. If it does, it needs to be plastered and covered with a bitumen primer, because a valley carpet is laid on the walls and on top of the flexible tiles - to a height of 30-50 cm. The entire rear area is covered with mastic. The sealing of chimney and ventilation pipes is made from a pattern of the valley carpet. The upper part of the carpet is inserted into a groove and covered with a metal apron, followed by sealing.

There is one nuance here - the installation of the pattern must take into account the cascading nature of the water. Therefore, first, the front part of the pattern is mounted; it extends 20 cm onto the ordinary tiles. The left, right and rear parts “go” under the tiles. The back pattern is mounted last.

The distance from the side and rear of the pipe is approximately 8 cm. All joints where there is no self-adhesive layer must be glued with mastic. If the pipe is wide - more than 50 cm, then a groove is made from the back.

13. Fastening penetrations

Antennas, ventilation pipes and other roofing elements are sealed with special passage elements resembling an apron, the lower edge of which is laid on top of a suitable sheet from below. Everything else is covered with shingles using mastic. Note that the pass-through element is pre-attached to roofing base nails.
If you have any questions before installation, we recommend watching the video instructions for installing TechnoNIKOL Shinglas multi-layer tiles.

• Material prepared by: Vladimir Grigoriev

It’s worth starting a conversation about this type of material by highlighting it benefits before other building materials for roofing. One of the main advantages is its insignificant weight, as well as the ability to choose the one you need for installation size. It is for this reason that it becomes possible to install flexible tiles yourself.

The basis for choosing flexible tiles is the presence of a roof with a minimum slope of 1:5.

This material can only be installed under certain weather conditions, namely air temperature not lower than five degrees. Observe this rule necessary to preserve the properties of the material, namely shingles– a sheet on which the “tiles” are attached.

Installation of shingle sheets can be produced using various means. Such means include nails and the adhesive layer of tile sheets. At temperatures below five degrees, the adhesive layer does not adhere to the base on which it is applied. In this case, an airtight coating is not created.

Also, at low temperatures, tile sheets become very fragile, and working with them becomes quite problematic.

If there is a need to install flexible tiles during the cold season, it is necessary to build a dome over the roof that will be heated. In this case, installation of tiles is possible.

Structure of flexible tiles

Used for the manufacture of soft tiles fiberglass(in some cases cellulose). To create the base of the tiles, fiberglass treated with bitumen. Then several more layers are applied to the base, which include bitumen of an oxidized-modified configuration, and polymer additives are also added to it.

Such additives give the tiles certain properties: strength, resistance to deformation and flexibility.

In addition to the two main layers, shingles on top treated with a protective layer. It can be mineral chips or basalt granulate. With the help of a protective layer, the tiles are given properties that protect them from climatic influences.

She is given various color shades. To enable fastening of the tiles, an adhesive layer is applied to them, which is protected with a film before use.

Mainly self-adhesive shingles has a hexagonal shape.

Advantages of flexible tiles

The most important advantage of flexible tiles is the fact that they suitable for arranging roofs of various shapes and configurations.

The buyer also has the opportunity to choose a material with a wide variety of colors and shapes. There are three modifications of the material: diamond-shaped, hexagonal and classic - rectangular.

The great advantage of flexible tiles is their excellent sound absorption, when the same cannot be said about other materials, they are more often called “musical”. In addition, roofing tiles difficult to ignite, which is also its obvious advantage.

Another good property of the material is the fact that the tiles are sufficiently easy to install. It can also be installed at fairly large temperature differences.

Material is good adapted to hail, wind and rain.

The advantages of flexible tiles undoubtedly include:

• small amount of waste upon completion of installation;
• fungal growths do not form on flexible tiles;
• good protection from moisture;
• the material does not require additional painting;
• ease of implementation repair work, replaceability of individual roof elements;
• light weight of the material.
• can be purchased for a relatively inexpensive price

Calculation of roofing material

When calculating the quantity required material To install a roof covering with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the amount of waste generated and with this condition, calculations must be carried out with a reserve. The amount of waste directly depends on the configuration of the roof on which the tiles will be installed.

Preparing to lay flexible tiles with your own hands

Before you start installing flexible tiles, you must lay the foundation. Used as a basis particle board, boards or moisture-resistant plywood. If a board is chosen for the base, then it is best to use a planed one, or better if it is tongue-and-groove.

Important: with a board thickness of 2 centimeters, the pitch of the rafters should be 6 meters. When laying, the joints of the material must coincide with the rafters.

Before starting work you must treat the roof with an antiseptic. It should be smooth and rigid.

To carry out the installation of tiles you will need:

• Underlay carpet - any material based on bitumen, in rolls (used for new roofs). Roofing felt, which was used previously (for old roofs).
• Carpet for the valley - the material is necessary for processing joints and abutments.
• Sealant and mastic.
• Knife and hair dryer.
• Construction planks.
• Nails (roofing and galvanized).

When all the necessary tools are available, you can proceed to preparatory work:

• Securing the vapor barrier film from the attic side. The film is attached using wooden planks to the rafter ribs.
• Insulation is laid on the outside of the roof; wooden beams are used to fix it, which are attached to the rafters.
• A film is placed on top of the insulation to protect against wind, and it is secured with a counter beam. The sheathing will subsequently be attached to this beam.
• OSB, plywood and board are laid on top of the film. Fastening is done using nails or screws with a wide head.

Installation requirements

The main thing that needs to be taken into account when laying flexible tiles, even on the roof of a house, even on the roof of a gazebo, is presence of a level base. If there are any irregularities, they will stand out on the roof once installation is complete. And in some cases, it is in these places that cracks and leaks can form.

Important: tiles cannot be laid on concrete.

Initially, a waterproofing carpet is laid. It is better if it is laid in horizontal directions. It is necessary to start laying it from the bottom of the roof. A valley carpet is best if it is made of a material without joints.

Instructions for installing flexible tiles: nine basic steps:

First stage– this is preparatory work with the foundation, which was mentioned earlier.

To do this, use a material with a uniform surface; this material is secured using nails. Humidity of this material should not exceed twenty percent of its own weight. The boards should not be less than two spans, which are located between the supports. They need to be fastened to the support places. It is also necessary to calculate the possible deformation of the boards and leave a gap between them.

Second phase– installation of a gap for ventilation – the gap is a necessary element in the construction and further installation of the roof. Its size should be large enough, at least five centimeters. The gap should be located as high as possible on the roof surface, and the hole into which air will be sucked in is at the bottom.

Creating ventilation on the roof is necessary for:

• eliminating moisture internal materials: lathing, insulation and roofing;
• preventing the formation of ice and icicles on the roof;
• maintaining a low temperature inside the roof in the summer.

The more correct and better the ventilation is, the longer the roof will last.

Third stage– installation of the lining layer.
For this purpose, special roofing insulating material is used. It must be laid over the entire roof area. It is worth starting the installation from the very bottom of the roof, and moving upward, an overlap is made on the material. The overlap should be at least 10 centimeters.

Along the edges, the material is fixed using nails, the interval between them is 20 centimeters.
On roofs with a slope of more than 18, lining material can only be installed at the ridge and end of the roof, as well as around pipes and joints.

Fourth– installation of metal cornice strips is carried out to protect the edge of the sheathing from moisture. For this purpose, install metal strips. They are installed on top of the carpet lining.

The edge of the material is fixed using roofing nails (steps of 10 centimeters).

Fifth step– installation of metal gable strips is carried out at the end of the roof; gable strips are installed to protect the sheathing. The overlap of the planks should be at least two centimeters.

Sixth– installation of a valley carpet – improves the water resistance of the roof. This coating matches the color of the selected roofing tile.

Seventh– installation of cornice tiles. Initially, cornice tiles are installed along the eaves of the eaves. This is done using its pecking base. Laying is done end-to-end. It is necessary to retreat 2 centimeters from the bend of the cornice strip. Then you need to nail the tiles. This must be done close to the perforation site, so that the fastening points will then be covered by the next row of tiles.

Eighth step– installation of tiles.

Important: in order to avoid color differences, it is necessary to use tiles from five packages at a time.

The tiles are installed from the center of the eaves overhang and towards the end. Before attaching the tiles, the protective film is removed. Each piece of tile is nailed with four nails. At
On a large roof slope, it is necessary to increase the number of nails to six.

When installing the first row of tiles, one condition must be met. It is necessary that it extends one centimeter onto the eaves tiles.

The tiles have petals. They serve to close the joints with the previous row. During further installation, the rows are mounted according to a different pattern, namely: the joints should not be closed, but should be at the same level or higher than the previous row

Ninth step– installation of junctions.

In order to make small passages through the roof use rubber seals. Places where heating occurs, namely near pipes, must be insulated. A triangular strip is nailed at the joint, and then the lining carpet is installed, all seams and overlaps are coated with glue.

All vertical joints are processed using the same technology.

Ways to care for roofing tiles

• In order for the coating to last for a long time, it is necessary to check its technical condition twice a year.
• It is necessary to equip the roof with free drainage for water. Drains and gutters should be cleaned regularly.
• Using a soft brush, debris is removed from the roof; this must be done regularly.
• In winter, snow removal from the roof is necessary only in cases of emergency, if the snow layer is more than twenty centimeters. Do not remove ice from the roof using sharp objects.
• If a breakdown is detected, repairs must be made immediately so that the destruction does not take on a larger scale. During repair work, it is necessary to protect the coating from the impact of walking.

Popular manufacturers: TechnoNIKOL, Deca, Shinglaz, etc.

Soft tiles can be classified as modern materials, although this is not entirely true. This product began to be used several centuries ago, and since then it has undergone repeated changes in composition and appearance. Today, soft tiles occupy quite a high rating among consumers, because its installation can be done with your own hands, and if any difficulties arise, you can always find detailed video online.

Features of the material

Soft tile roofing consists of small tiles with curved edges. This material is based on fiberglass heavily impregnated with modified bitumen. The shingles are laid overlapping, and small nails, staples or felt pins are used as fasteners.

The fiberglass base can be reinforced or simple. If you prefer a more durable roofing surface, then choose a material with reinforcement, but keep in mind that the price of this product will be significantly higher. In addition, almost all types of this coating are equipped with a protective layer of mineral powder. It allows the material to withstand prolonged exposure to direct sunlight and does not allow damage to the surface under certain mechanical influences.

A roof made of soft tiles has the following advantages:

• Durability. The minimum service life of bituminous shingles is 30 years, and the maximum is more than 70. Thanks to such long-term use, you don’t have to worry about high construction costs, because everything will pay off several times over.
• Thanks to the protective substances included in the material, shingles have high weather resistance. They are not afraid of either a high concentration of moisture on the roof or ultraviolet radiation, the main thing is that the correct slope is selected when installing the slope.
• The finished roof has high aesthetic qualities. Thanks to the wide variety of shapes and colors, you can create something unique so that all guests will be impressed for a long time.
• High elasticity The product allows you to lay them both on simple and complex rafter structures, for example, on hipped or domed ones.

IMPORTANT: Installation of a soft tile roof can be done independently and it is not necessary to have experience in construction. To simplify the process, draw the plane into the required zones, and attach the material clearly along the lines.

The composition of soft tiles includes the following layers:

• Protective coating (sprinkling)
• Modified bitumen
• Fiberglass
• Modified bitumen
• Protective film

In some modern varieties There is a self-adhesive layer. This allows you to install shingles on the roof without any auxiliary fasteners or tools.

Nuances

All experienced roofers have in their arsenal some rules when working with this or that material. If you want to install a soft tile roof as correctly as possible, then you should remember them too. However, some manufacturers indicate them in the instructions, but, as a rule, not every buyer gets it.

• When installing tiles at temperatures less than 5-10 degrees above zero, the bottom layer of material may not melt on its own. To be safe, it is better to use a gas burner or a special hairdryer, but this will slow down the whole procedure for a certain period of time, so styling is best done in the summer.
• Don’t think that the higher the temperature environment, the better it will be for the material. This is a misconception for which some developers have had to pay. At temperatures above 25 degrees, the bottom layer of goth heats up too much and this leads to problems such as fluidity. Bitumen sheets may begin to flow down the slope, which will lead to severe deformation of the roofing sheet.

• It is also not recommended to lay flexible material in weather with high humidity. The wood from which the rafter system and sheathing are created will become saturated and after installing soft tiles, serious problems with the formation of condensation will arise. The moisture in the roofing pie will try to escape, which will lead to peeling of the shingles, therefore, after a certain period you will need repairs.

IMPORTANT: The installation of a roof made of soft tiles should be carried out at a temperature of 10-20 degrees above zero and in dry weather, as the instructions say. If you value your time, then in less suitable conditions you can prepare materials and fill the necessary sheathing.

Creating a sheathing

The composition of the soft tile roof in this case should be as follows:

• Rafter legs
• Vapor barrier layer
• Counter-lattice
• First layer of sheathing
• Thermal insulation boards
• Second layer of sheathing
• Underlay carpet
• Coating

This roofing design made of soft tiles allows you to protect both the roofing pie itself and all underlying elements. Let's skip some components and talk about the sheathing, since it plays a very important role important role for the entire rafter system.

Lathing for soft roofing materials almost always must include 3 layers, namely: counter lathing, open lathing and continuous lathing.

The counter-lattice performs such a useful function as ventilation of the under-roof space. To create it, beams with a width of 2 to 5 centimeters are used. The height of this element depends on the requirement for the ventilation gap, for example, in this case it is better to choose the maximum value, since such a roofing pie will constantly contain moisture due to complete insulation by the coating.

The second layer is created using the discharge method. For this procedure, it is best to use boards with a cross-section of 20x150 millimeters. If the counter-batten is nailed parallel to the rafters, then the batten runs perpendicularly. The pitch of the elements largely depends on the calculation, but most developers use a range from 30 to 50 centimeters.

The last layer is made of OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, however, some developers also use boards, but this will take a lot of wood and the created plane will be uneven. Even when creating a solid foundation, we must not forget about ventilation gaps, they should be there anyway. Optimal distance for this purpose 5-10 millimeters.

IMPORTANT: Before erecting the roofing part of the building, all lumber must be treated with protective solutions and thoroughly dried. It is not allowed to work with wood whose moisture content exceeds 20%.

Underlay carpet

As you probably already guessed, soft roofing quite demanding of its foundation. In addition to all the layers that make up the roofing pie, it is very important to use a lining carpet or the so-called “bedding”. This product levels the entire surface and acts as a waterproofing layer. When arranging the bedding, it is also important to take into account some nuances, namely:

• If the roof slope is in the range from 15 to 18 degrees, then the lining carpet is laid over the entire plane. The overlap should be at least 15 centimeters, this will prevent possible moisture from flowing inside the cake.
• If the slope slope is more than 20 degrees, the litter can be applied locally, in the most important places. For example, on valleys, eaves overhangs and junction areas.

The lining material is created from moisture-resistant modified bitumen and replacing it with ordinary roofing felt is unacceptable. Most developers listen to the advice of soft tile manufacturers and purchase their underlays. Only in this way can maximum compatibility of the coating and other materials be achieved.

Laying soft tiles with your own hands

As has already been said many times in the article, soft tile roofing can be installed with your own hands without any problems, the main thing is to follow a certain technology, and now I will describe it. If for some reason you don’t want to read or are simply sure that you won’t understand, then I suggest watching how to lay soft tiles with your own hands in the video.

remember, that optimal conditions For installation of this coating, the weather is dry and 10-20 degrees above zero.

• After the preparatory work, marking begins. This is done using upholstery cord or any suitable tool, for example, a level and chalk.
• The installation of shingles itself begins from the bottom of the slope, i.e. from the cornice. There is a special shingle for this called “starting strip”. It is attached to the base using nails. When using self-adhesive products, no fastening is required. You need to be careful when using nails, because the shingle is attached at a distance of 3 centimeters from the edge, and the head of the hardware is driven flush.

• After the starting strip, the second layer of bitumen shingles is laid. This is best done on the left side. By the way, most developers shorten the first shingle by 14.3 centimeters; this will move the seams, as a result of which the roofing surface will become more resistant to precipitation.
• The third row is already shortened by 28.6 centimeters, again from the left edge.
• By trimming the subsequent shingles of each row, they fill the entire roof plane.
• After installing the main surface, they begin to install auxiliary elements: ridge, valleys and others.

I hope the method I described “how to install soft tiles” is clear to you, in which case you can always rely on the video material located above.

Laying the roof correctly

When building your own home, everything is important: and reliable foundation, and strong walls, and, of course, a roof. Its installation is carried out in several stages.

Every step requires care and precision. So, let's take a closer look at how to lay a roof.

Device pitched roof. 1 – Frame, 2 – Lower cladding, 3 – Vapor barrier, 4 – Upper cladding, 5 – Waterproofing, 6 – Insulation, 7 – Thermal insulating gasket, 8 – Wall panel, 9 – Binding boards, 10 – Cornice.

First stage

Work on the construction of the roof should begin with a plan.

To compile it, it is necessary to correctly determine the appropriate type of roof. There are several of them.

1. Single-pitch. This is the simplest option. It is usually used in construction non-residential premises: warehouses, bathhouses, outbuildings, etc.
2. Gable. This is the most common and popular option. It is not difficult to bring it to life. Usually gable roof done in cottages, private houses, dachas. It consists of 2 slopes docked together.
3. Four-slope. Although this is a complicated, but very convenient option. There are tent, hip and half-hip types.

• the hip type consists of 4 slopes. 2 of them are made in the shape of a triangle, and the other 2 are in the shape of a trapezoid;
• half hip is a little different.

  At the top it consists of 2 slopes, and at the bottom of 4;

• the tent type consists of 4 identical slopes. Their shape is isosceles triangles.

After choosing the type of roof, you need to decide on the material for the roof, because the design of the rafter system depends on this.

Gable roof diagram.

The heaviest roofing covering is natural tiles.

To properly lay such a roof, you need a solid foundation, strong walls and very strong system rafters But slate and metal tiles weigh much less. It's easier to put them down. Here the requirements for rafters are not so strict. That is why it is necessary to resolve the issue of roofing material in advance.

The eye-pleasing 45-degree slope is suitable for areas with high rainfall. But for windy steppe areas, you need to choose a flatter option.

Progress of installation work

The next stage is the installation of the rafter system. This requires:

• timber, slats and boards;
• waterproofing film;
• nails, screws and bolts;
• insulation;
• saw, jigsaw;
• hammer;
• screwdriver

Diagram of the roof structure with rafters.

Step one.

Along the entire upper perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to properly secure a kind of foundation for the future rafter system - the Mauerlat. It is a thick, strong beam. When installing it, you must use a level to avoid distortions. The fastening of the Mauerlat to the walls must be of high quality and reliable.

Anchor bolts are best suited for this purpose. As a rule, they are installed during the pouring of the reinforcing belt. In this case, the ends of the bolts are left free for subsequent installation of the Mauerlat.

Step two.

Installation of the rafter system. Beams or boards are usually used as rafters. Since this system will bear a large load, you should not engage in unnecessary savings.

Roof materials must be strong and durable. The rafters are attached to each other using additional elements - ties, lintels, spacers. It is very important that each beam rests on the Mauerlat on one side, and docks with the opposite element on the other. The size of the step between the rafters depends on the future roofing. How more weight material that will be installed on the roof, the smaller the distance between the beams.

Step three.

Installation of sheathing. Slats are attached across the already mounted rafters. The step between them is determined by the characteristics of the selected roofing material.

Insulation and protection

Protective layers must be installed on the roof in a certain order: vapor barrier layer, insulation, waterproofing.

You can use different materials as insulation.

Most often used mineral wool. This is a durable, lightweight and harmless material. You can also use polystyrene foam, but it is flammable and toxic.

The insulation must be placed on the roof correctly. First, it is placed between the beams of the rafter system, and then along the entire perimeter of the sheathing.

It is very good if the layer thickness is not 5, but 10 cm. This will help protect the house from cold and excess noise more reliably. To do this, the insulation is laid out in 2 layers.

Scheme of insulation of a pitched roof.

Next comes the installation of the vapor barrier film. To do this, it is stretched from the inside under the already laid insulation and attached to the beams using a stapler. It is necessary to protect the thermal insulation layer from excess moisture.

It should be laid very carefully.

And finally, the final stage is covering the roof with roofing material. It is known that different roofing has different features. For everything to work out correctly, you need to take them into account. Otherwise, it will not be possible to make a high-quality roof.

Ruberoid is laid in 2 layers. This provides reliable waterproofing. The order of application is from bottom to top with an overlap of 140 mm.

DIY installation instructions for flexible tiles

The first layer is placed on the roof along the slope, and the second layer is placed across it. Before fixing, the soft roof should be leveled. Screws or nails are used as fasteners.

Slate is a simple and inexpensive roofing option. Before installing it on the roof, it is necessary to check the quality of the sheets. There shouldn't be a marriage. Then you need to mark the places for fastening on the sheathing and make holes in advance using a drill. There are 2 ways to lay slate: cutting corners or staggering rows.

The first option is suitable for high slopes of small width. The second method is used for flat roofs.

Metal tiles are the most common roofing option. Its advantages: light weight, durability, attractive appearance. Main disadvantage- poor sound insulation, but this can easily be corrected with additional noise protection measures. The general rules for installing metal tiles are as follows:

• the sheets are attached to the sheathing in the deflection of the wave;
• mounting order: bottom to top;
• each sheet of metal tile is smoothed to the sheathing;
• material for fastening - short self-tapping screws (19 cm).

Natural tiles are very heavy.

The installation order is from bottom to top. Fastening material: galvanized screws.

Here are the main points of roof installation. Even if specialists are hired to carry out the work, knowledge of the basic design features will never be superfluous.

Based on materials from the site: http://1metallocherepica.ru

Features of flexible roofing material
Installation of soft roofing
Do-it-yourself roof sheathing
Laying underlay carpet
How to cover a roof with soft tiles

A roof covered with bitumen shingles is aesthetically pleasing, durable, and easy to use. Its great advantage is the possibility of self-installation. There is nothing difficult about how to cover a roof with a soft roof with your own hands, since the weight of the material is small, installation is carried out on an adhesive base with additional fixation with nails.

Currently, this type of coverage has become popular among property owners. A do-it-yourself soft roof made of bitumen shingles has a very attractive appearance; it is characterized by increased moisture resistance and a long service life.

There is a self-adhesive layer on the back of this roofing material. Thanks to its presence, it is possible to install a soft tile roof with your own hands in the absence of the appropriate skills.

Features of flexible roofing material

Soft tiles are tiles with a curved edge.

It is made from fiberglass, which is impregnated petroleum bitumen, modified by polymers. When arranging the roof, the material is laid overlapping so that an imitation of a shingle covering made of wooden blocks is created.

The fiberglass contained in such tiles can be ordinary or reinforced polyester. During the manufacturing process, the outer side of the material is covered with a special coating made from basalt or stone chips, due to which the roof has a rough surface and a certain color.

The advantages of bituminous shingles include:

1. Aesthetic appearance.

   Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles: step-by-step instructions on how to carry out the work

   Since the material is produced in a variety of colors and shapes, it is possible to give the house a harmonious image.

2. Long service life. A soft roof can be used for at least 70 years and during this period the costs of its installation will be fully recouped.
3. Flexibility. Elastic products make it possible to install soft roofs of complex shapes, with many decorative elements.
4. Resistance to adverse weather conditions.

   A soft roof can withstand the effects of ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and other environmental factors while maintaining performance characteristics.

The technology for laying tiles is simple and therefore even home craftsman can easily arrange a soft roof roof with your own hands for country cottage, country house, gazebos and other buildings.

Installation of soft roofing

Before you make a soft roof with your own hands, you need to make sure there is a solid foundation. According to the installation technology of this material, the work can be performed under specific weather conditions.

1. When installed at air temperatures less than plus 5 degrees, the self-adhesive layer available with reverse side tiles cannot melt on their own.

   To do this forcibly, you will need to use construction hair dryer or gas burner. But the melting of bitumen will affect the installation time of the soft roof.

2. When this material is laid at a temperature exceeding 25 degrees, the self-adhesive layer begins to melt strongly and flow down the slope.

   At high temperatures, deformation of the roofing occurs.

3. If you do installation work in conditions high humidity, this will negatively affect the durability of the sheathing, rafters and the tiles themselves due to rotting.

The instructions for installing a soft roof with your own hands, compiled by the manufacturers, prescribe that this should be done exclusively at an air temperature of 5 to 15 degrees, when the weather is dry.

Do-it-yourself roof sheathing

First of all, you need to make a reliable crate. According to the technology for installing soft coverings, there must be a solid base that will give the soft covering of the roof the required strength and rigidity.

The presence of the lathing guarantees an even distribution of the load on the rafters, so it is made of three layers:

1. Counter-lattice. It is built from wooden blocks 3–4 centimeters thick and mounted on top of the waterproofing along the rafter frame legs.

   This layer serves to create an air gap between the covering and the rafters.

2. Sparse sheathing. This base part is under soft material made from edged boards measuring 20x150 millimeters. The elements are fixed perpendicular to the bars of the counter-lattice with an interval of 30–50 centimeters.
3. Continuous sheathing. It is built from moisture-resistant plywood, edged boards or OSB boards.

   They are laid continuously with a small gap of 1–3 millimeters, which serves to compensate for the thermal expansion of the sheathing.

Before laying a soft roof, the wood elements must be made smooth so that they do not damage the tiles.

Better use material coniferous species with 20% humidity. To prevent the wood from starting to rot, the products must be treated with antiseptic compounds. To eliminate the risk of fire, the lathing is impregnated with fire-resistant preparations.

Laying underlay carpet

There is a certain procedure for how to properly lay a soft roof. It is mounted on a continuous sheathing. A bitumen lining carpet that is resistant to mechanical stress is placed on top of the base.

He protects roof structure from leaks and damage.

According to the technology for installing the underlay carpet:

• if the roof slope is less than 15-18 degrees, it is laid out over the entire area of ​​the slopes with a 15-20 cm overlap, so that if the snow melts, moisture does not linger;
• if the angle of inclination is more than 20 degrees, the lining is laid exclusively in places where precipitation can accumulate - such additional waterproofing is used to protect the joints of soft roofing on slopes with a vertical surface, valleys and ridge;
• Roofing felt cannot be used for lining, as it is fragile and will not last long.

According to professionals, as a backing layer you need to use products recommended by manufacturers, since it is guaranteed to be compatible with the purchased tiles.

How to cover a roof with soft tiles

Installation should be performed when it is calm and dry outside. When laying it on a previously used rafter frame, first check the condition of the wooden elements and replace those that are deformed or rotted.

Installation work is performed in a certain order:

1. Using a pre-prepared drawing of a soft roof, chalk marks the surface of the slope with horizontal stripes, marking the location of the rows of tiles.
2. Laying begins from the bottom of the slope, fixing the roofing with special nails. If the fastening is carried out using a self-adhesive layer, you need to remove the protective film from the tile and press the product to the base.

   The nails are driven in no closer than 2.5 centimeters from the edge, flush with the surface of the tile.

3. The next row begins on the left side. 143 millimeters are cut off from the tile on the left, shifting the pattern diagonally.
4. To begin laying the third row, a fragment of 286 millimeters in length is removed from the product from the left edge so that the pattern of the material moves in the diagonal direction.
5. After completion of the work, the ridge and valley junctions having a vertical surface are decorated with a ridge element.

To ensure the correct functioning of the asphalt shingle roof and to prevent “ greenhouse effect» should be arranged ventilation system and thereby prevent rotting of the rafter structure.

Is it possible to lay a soft roof in winter?

Soft roof - modern material, which has good technological characteristics, is in demand on the market, work with which in practice is carried out all year round.

The Russian climate is characterized by a long cold period and there is often a need or desire to cover the roof at lower temperatures.

Won't this have serious consequences?

Soft tiles are a fiberglass canvas with a bitumen-polymer coating applied to both sides. It is this layer that is responsible for all the most important functions - it is both a waterproofing agent and an adhesive at the same time. In its pure form, bitumen easily melts when the temperature rises and quickly hardens when it drops - for roofing this is more of a disadvantage than an advantage.

Technologists have found a way to neutralize this flaw: they add modified polymer compositions, which improve the properties of the material. As a result, it melts less, does not harden as much in the cold, and does not lose its properties under unfavorable conditions.

In practice, this means that modern soft roofing “does not float” in direct sunlight and “does not harden” in the cold, and its installation can be done at any temperature.

Do-it-yourself soft roofing

Flexible bitumen shingles can withstand temperatures from -55° C to + 110° C, and the adhesive joint strength can withstand -35° C.

These are temperature limits that are most comfortable for humans and favorable for the manifestation of the best technological properties of the material.

From + 5° C and above, soft roofing and mastics are the most flexible and do not require additional softening with hair dryers - the installation process is carried out at optimal speed without the use of auxiliary means. Read more about installing soft tiles here.

How do low temperatures affect the coating?

At subzero temperatures, the bitumen layer becomes less plastic, hardens, and the polymerization process slows down.

Work can be carried out, but the material must be entered into warm room with the optimal temperature, and then bring it to the installation site in batches of several packages.

If the frost is severe, then the packages with roofing material should warm up well in a heated room for 1–2 days.

During the installation process, you will need to use a construction hair dryer - heating the tiles and mastics before installation will increase the plasticity of the materials and ensure better adhesion of the shingles to each other.

Working in the cold increases the number of procedures and manipulations, while simultaneously reducing the speed.

What to do if the base gets wet?

You cannot carry out work when it is raining, snowing or starting installation without waiting for the base to dry.

The base must be dry - otherwise, under the sealed underlayment, wet OSB sheets, plywood or boards (depending on what it is made of) will rot in 2-3 years, and the roof will become unusable.

To be or not to be?

Whether or not to install a soft roof in winter is a matter for everyone to decide for themselves.

It makes more sense to plan roof installation in the spring, when there are more sunny days, higher air temperatures, less rain - ideal conditions For roofing works. And in winter, it is quite possible to carry out preparations so as not to waste time during the construction season, and to purchase building materials - during this period the price for them is usually reduced.