Mansard roof rafter system for metal tiles. Rafter pitch for metal tiles: do the installation correctly. Hanging type rafter system

The gable roof design for private houses is most often chosen, since it is the best option for ease of installation and ease of use, strength and reliability, as well as a style solution. A gable roof is also called a gable roof and has two slopes, which can be located in relation to each other under the same or different angles, that is, the front can be an isosceles or scalene triangle. Last option can be increasingly found among new buildings, as it becomes fashionable style decision. And, in addition to originality, such a roof has some positive features that simplify its operation.

This type of rafter system can be used for all types of roofing materials, but the sheathing attached to the rafters has its own parameters for each covering.

Gable roof: the rafter system for metal tiles, which has its own characteristics, must be carefully studied and calculated in advance, before purchasing materials and installing it. Let's try to understand these issues.

Types of gable roof designs

1 Types of designs gable roofs
2 The main components of a gable rafter system
3 Types of gable roof rafter systems
- 3.1 Layered rafter system
- 3.2 Hanging rafter system
4 How to calculate the parameters of a gable rafter system
- 4.1 Loads on the rafter system
- 4.2 Angle of slope of the rafter system and height of the ridge
  - 4.2.1 Ridge height calculator
- 4.3 Length of rafter legs
  - 4.3.1 Calculator for calculating the length of the rafter leg
- 4.4 Calculation of the pitch and cross-section of rafters
  - 4.4.1 Calculator for calculating the distributed load on the rafter leg
- 4.5 Parameters of other lumber
5 Sequence of installation of the rafter system for metal tiles and roofing
- 5.1 Video: erection of a gable truss structure under a metal tile roof

First, you need to understand what types of gable roof designs there are, since you will have to choose the most suitable one for a particular building.

Simple equilateral gable design

This version of the gable design can be called traditional and the most used, as it is easy to install and maintain, and is also durable and reliable.

Symmetry in this system helps to achieve uniform load on the mauerlat and load-bearing walls. At making the right choice beam sections for arranging the rafter system and the Mauerlat, these parts will provide the safety margin necessary for long-term operation of the roof. Additional reliability of the structure will be provided by correctly installed racks, struts and tightening.

The disadvantage of this system for arranging rooms inside the attic space is that after installing the walls and ceiling, a large area is occupied by blind areas in the corner areas of the structure, which remain unused.

Simple asymmetrical gable design

The asymmetrical gable design differs from the traditional system in that its slopes are located at different angles. So, one of them is usually more than 45 degrees, which allows you to increase usable area attic space, in which it is quite possible to arrange a living space, of course, with proper insulation.

Another important advantage of such a design may be a smaller slope, which is recommended to be planned on the leeward side of the building, where it is always collected on the roof a large number of snow. A slope that is small in size but has a great steepness will not retain large snowdrifts on its surface.

The disadvantage of an asymmetrical structure is its more complex calculation to achieve uniform distribution of the load on the walls of the house.

Broken gable structure

This gable rafter system can be called a rarity, although thanks to this arrangement of the slopes in the attic space, a fairly large room is formed that can be used as a residential or utility room.

In addition to such a rafter system, a broken gable structure can also include an attic version of the installation of rafters.

The attic broken rafter system is capable of providing the building with a full second floor with spacious rooms, and with enhanced insulation they can be used at any time of the year.

The main components of a gable rafter system

Now let's look at the main structural elements gable roof rafter system

In the vast majority of cases, when repairing a roof, the choice falls on metal tiles.

In addition to the long list of economic and operational advantages, this material is also interesting for its suitability for self-installation.

Even basic skills will be enough home handyman so that the roof is not only durable and practical, but also attractive in appearance.

Advantages of metal tiles

The widespread use of metal tiles is due to the combination of the following advantages in this type of roofing material:

Economic expediency.
Compared to most other roofing coverings, metal tiles have a relatively low cost.
What makes purchasing such a roof even more profitable is the ability to avoid hiring builders to install it, as well as its long service life.
Light weight.
With an average weight of 1 sq. m of material is about 6 kg, the total mass of the roof is relatively small. This allows you to do without the use of a powerful and expensive rafter system. Besides, light roof does not require the installation of continuous sheathing, which simplifies the calculation of the roof and reduces the cost of work.
Resistance against external factors. Protection is provided by the use of several roofing sheets protective words. Therefore, the metal base of the canvas is not afraid of either prolonged exposure to moisture or direct sun rays, no damage during installation or hail.
Aesthetics. The production technology of metal tiles allows you to create absolutely any texture. Accordingly, on the market you can easily choose an option suitable for the overall exterior of the building. The range is further expanded by the possibility of painting sheets in all shades of the palette.
Fire safety. The basis of the metal tile is a sheet of galvanized steel. This material is completely non-flammable, making it absolutely fireproof.

The indicated advantages of metal roofing make it the most practical, affordable and attractive externally a roofing option.

Materials and tools

To install metal tile sheets, you will need a set of traditional tools for finishing work:

electric screwdriver;
jigsaw or circular saw;
marker;
construction stapler with staples;
metal scissors;
scotch;
laser plane builder or building level;
roulette.

Important! To cut sheets of metal tiles, you cannot use grinders with abrasive discs operating at high speeds. Their use will lead to overheating of the steel base, melting and destruction of the polymer protective coating. Such damage greatly reduces the service life of the roof.

Of the materials, in addition to the metal tile itself and its accessories, you will need the following:

bars 50 x 50 mm;
boards 100 wide and 25–35 mm thick;
sheet waterproofing material;
wooden slats;
galvanized screws, nails.

Funds will also be required personal protection and auxiliary devices: ladder, scaffolding, brush for sweeping away debris, etc.

Find out more about laying corrugated sheets on a gable roof:

Structure of the roofing “pie”

The basis for creating a roof made of metal tiles is rafter system. In a gable (or gable, as it is more often called in everyday life) roof, the rafter system has the most convenient configuration for installation work, since it forms only two planes.

A layer of waterproofing material (3) is laid on top of the rafter system. Without it, condensation on the sheet metal roofing moisture will be absorbed into the wooden structures under the roof, destroying them. Waterproofing also helps in cases where the roof begins to leak.

Vertical slats - counter-lattice (4) - are attached to the waterproofing material along the rafters. Their purpose is to organize a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the sheathing.

In addition, the roof structure contains frontal boards (8) and eaves strips (10). The first ones are stuffed onto the end part of the rafters (1) and protect from moisture falling with the wind. The latter serve to remove moisture flowing down the waterproofing layer.

Installation procedure

On gable roofs metal tiles are laid first on one slope, and then on the other.

Laying sheets of metal tiles should begin with lower slope angle.

All installation work on roofing is carried out in several stages:

Checking the geometry of load-bearing roof elements

At this stage, the diagonals of the roof slopes are measured and compared using a tape measure. If they coincide, then the roof has a rectangular shape suitable for laying metal tiles.

In addition, you need to use a level or builder to make sure that the ridge and both cornices are strictly horizontal. The flatness of the slopes must also be checked. Emergency sections of the rafter system are being repaired.

Installation of the frontal board and filing of the roof overhang

The place where the front board is attached (8) is the end (bottom) part of the rafters (1). This is fixed roofing element galvanized nails.

Front boards should not completely isolate the under-roof space from the street. To ensure free passage of air, ventilation gaps must remain between them.

WITH reverse side of the frontal board, a horizontal filing is installed under the roof overhang. As such, you can use perforated plastic panels. This option Convenient with the ability to use fastening j-straps for plastic, nailed to the front board from behind. If boards are used, ventilation slots should be left between them.

Installation of gutter hooks

Hooks(9) should be placed in a straight line with a slope towards the planned drainage. Reliable drainage will be ensured by the slope angle from 5 mm per meter of gutter.

The most practical and easy to install are hooks of extended length. They are sewn to the bottom of the rafters on top of the front board. To ensure the vertical position of the hook, grooves of the required depth are cut in the board and the bottom of the rafters.

First nailed or screwed to the top of the rafters top part hook Then it is bent to the required position and fixed on the end of the rafters. If the installation of the drain is carried out after laying the metal tiles, then use short hooks, the upper part of which is under roofing does not start.

Laying waterproofing material

Rolled water-repellent materials (films) are used for the roofing “pie”. As it moves onto the rafters, the roll unfolds horizontally along the eaves. You should start from the bottom of the roof. Each subsequent strip is laid with an overlap on the bottom one. The amount of overlap is 15 cm.

The waterproofing sheets (3) should be fixed with a construction stapler. The material is allowed to sag up to 2 cm. The joints are taped with tape. The top and bottom of the film are determined by the factory markers applied to it.

Along the rafters on top of the waterproofing they are stuffed vertical(4) and horizontal(6) battens made of wooden planks. They are nailed along the central part of the rafter beams.

Attention! Metal roofing and bitumen waterproofing– materials that are incompatible with each other. When the roof heats up under the sun, the bitumen will melt and the canvas will lose its ability to repel moisture.

Find out how to make a gable roof gable with your own hands:

Installation of sheathing

The bars or boards of the horizontal sheathing begin to be packed from below, from the eaves. The first beam of the sheathing must have a cross-section larger than the cross-section of the remaining beams. When installing it, it is necessary to control strict parallelism to the cornice. Installation of metal tile sheets begins with fixation on the lower beam of the sheathing. Therefore, the appearance of the entire roof will largely depend on the accuracy of its installation.

The pitch of the sheathing beams depends on the distance between the horizontal waves on the metal tile sheet and must coincide with it. Most often the pitch is 300, 350 or 400 mm. The only exception is the step up to the second beam of the sheathing. Here it should be reduced by 70 mm.

The topmost beams of the sheathing are also stuffed with decrease step, right up to nailing the beams tightly. This will facilitate the installation of ridge elements and add strength the entire structure. Around roof and dormer windows, chimneys, ventilation ducts and other additional elements(bridges, snow guards, etc.) the sheathing should also be strengthened by stuffing a continuous web of beams.

Installation of curtain rods

The planks are attached along the entire cornice using galvanized self-tapping screws. The fastening pitch is 300 mm. If the length of one bar is not enough, then it is increased. In this case, the planks are laid overlapping with overlaps of 50–100 mm.

The eaves strip is attached with a slight tension, then the roofing material will be more resistant to gusts of wind and less noisy.

Installation of the lower valley

Where the roof planes (for example, the slope of the roof of a house and the slope of the roof dormer window) form intersections at a slight angle; installation of a special strip is required - the lower valley (20b).

A continuous plank sheathing (7) is placed under it. Boards with a cross section of 150 x 25 mm are applied as lathing material.

Under the lower valley you will need a continuous strip of sheathing about 300 mm wide.

The position of the lower valley is selected so that its edge in the overhang area passes over the cornice board. The sheet of metal tiles and the lower valley strip are not directly fastened together, but are laid with porous insulation.

Installing a chimney outlet bypass

For a brick pipe, the procedure will be as follows:

A layer of waterproofing is applied around the perimeter with an overlap of 50 mm on the pipe. For fixation, you can use heat-resistant tape;
bypass strips (28) are installed;
A groove about 15 mm deep is cut along the pipe, into which the upper edges of the bypass strip are inserted. You can only tap on solid bricks; it is prohibited to do this on masonry joints;
The drainage bar organizes the drainage of water, which either drains into the nearest valley or is directed to the eaves.

The decorative pipe surround is not installed at this stage of the work; metal tiles are laid first. For round chimneys, the lining is made of sealing tape. To ensure a tight fit to the pipe, the tape will need to be cut along the top edge in several places before gluing.

Installation of metal tile sheets

If it is possible to lay sheets along the entire roof slope in one row, the installation order will be as follows:

superimposed outer sheet and its position is verified relative to the eaves and side cut of the roof;
the first sheet is fixed in the upper part with one self-tapping screw;
the next sheet is laid with an overlap in the wave and aligned vertically;
the sheets are sewn together with self-tapping screws, but the threads should not be screwed into the beams;
the following sheets are mounted in the same way;
the resulting assembly is once again verified relative to the ridge and cornice;
screws are screwed into the sheathing.

If the height of the sheet is less than the length of the slope and you have to lay the metal tiles in several rows, the procedure will be as follows:

the first two sheets are laid according to the same pattern as for single-row installation;
the third sheet is placed on top of the first with a horizontal offset of 150 mm, after which these two sheets are fastened together;
the next sheet is placed above the second and attached to it horizontally. With the third sheet, fastening is carried out on the vertical side;
four fastened sheets are aligned together and, by tightening the screws, fixed to the sheathing.

At the final stage fixation produced at the bottom of each wave by bottom cut sheets. In places where vertical overlap, screws are screwed into crest waves. Distance between self-tapping screws should be chosen with this calculation: there should be 6–8 pieces per square meter.

For detailed instructions on installing metal roofing, see this video:

Dormer window device (“cuckoo”)

The location of the "cuckoo" is determined early. When laying sheets of metal tiles, areas corresponding to configurations dormer window.

Roofing pie under the window neatly sawed out. By perimeter windows are being installed additional sheathing beams.

Gaps between the timber and the sheet of metal tiles are sealed. To drain water, install valleys the top and bottom of the dormer window.

Installing the end strip

The purpose of this slats(29) – protection from precipitation and sharp gusts of wind penetrating under the metal tiles. In addition, the end strip also performs decorative function: when correct installation its upper edge overlaps crest waves of metal tiles. Screw The end strip starts from the side of the cornice. If it is necessary to build up, provide an overlap in 100 mm.

Installation of the upper valley

The purpose of this element is to drain water, in addition, upper valley(20a) makes roof joints more aesthetically pleasing.

For installation, use self-tapping screws, screwing them in so that don't disturb waterproofing layer. Between the upper valley panel and the surface of the metal tile, a self-expanding insulation.

Installation of abutment strips

These planks allow you to organize careful And sealed transition from the roof surface to adjacent walls and other structural elements of the building and roof.

The connection to the wall is arranged according to the same principle as the connection to the chimney.

Installation of ridge strips and external corners

Before installation ridge strip you should make sure that the gap between the waterproofing sheets of adjacent roof slopes is not less than 20 cm. On top of the top continuous sheathing you can lay additional layer waterproofing material strip of 150 mm.

Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws screwed into sheathing through the covering wave. To increase the ridge strip, organized overlaps, serving as additional ribs rigidity.

End parts of the ridge are closed external corners, fixed with self-tapping screws. Between the metal tile and the ridge strip is laid insulation made of elastic material.

Installation of stairs, walkway, roof railing and snow guard

Roofing accessories made of metal tiles are mounted on top of the roofing.

Their places placement are determined in advance and are intensifying additional beams and sheathing boards.

Particular attention is paid to installation snow guard(21). It is fixed to the rafters complete reinforced screws.

Installation of a drainage system

When installing water drainage systems The following rules should be followed from the roof:

to one drain pipe it is forbidden install more than 10 meters of drainage gutter;
Part gutters above the funnel should be cut at an angle with sides in 100–110 mm;
funnel should be located under the gutter at a distance of 150 mm.

All elements of the drainage system, including plugs, funnels, etc., have a fixation system among themselves. However, after installation work is completed, they should be further processed. silicone sealant.

Attention! Drainpipes are mounted with crimp down, otherwise leaks cannot be avoided.

Roof grounding with a separate bus

Since metal tiles have the ability to conduct electricity, then for safety reasons it should be provided with a system grounding.

Grounding is done by connecting electrical wires large section with one end to the roof (through a self-tapping screw). The second end is securely attached to metal structure buried in the ground depth at least a meter.

Post-installation processing

Metal tiles require periodic inspection(semiannually). From the roof and drainage system clean up debris and leaves, and the surface cleanse soft brush.
Canvas in problem areas Can tint, this will increase its corrosion resistance.

Installing counter battens under the rafters

The system of counter-battens under the rafters allows for insulation roofs. They are used as counter rails wooden beams or planks nailed.
Further into the space between rafters a layer of insulating material is placed behind the counter-trikes, which additionally reduces noise metal roofing.

Laying vapor barrier and fastening with slats

Leave insulation open is unacceptable, since moisture can get on it and negate the entire insulating effect. To prevent this, apply to the insulation vapor barrier film(16). This material does not allow moisture to pass through, but effectively allows water vapor to pass through, leaving the insulation dry

Wooden slats are placed on top of the vapor barrier for fixing whole pie.

Safety precautions

Work on installing the roof of gable roofs refers to work with high level of danger, and the more slope stingrays, the stricter the safety requirements. Don't neglect them, take care of yours health:

be sure to wear safety belt, tied with a strong rope to a strong part of the building;
work in shoes that have good clutch with surface;
stairs And forests securely fasten to the walls of the house;
roof protect scaffolding, scaffolding, mesh or sides with a height of at least 1 m.

When working with metal tiles the following rules should be adhered to:

always use mittens;
to not allow applying excessive force to metal;
take into account the strength of the wind and windage sheets of metal tiles.

In addition, it will not be superfluous to use all available devices that make work easier. Eg, inclined guides from long boards will not only increase safety when rise sheets, but will also ensure the safety of the material.

In general, installation of metal tiles on gable roof does not pose a serious problem. It is enough to follow safety rules and follow all recommendations to get reliable And beautiful roofing at the lowest possible cost.

The following describes the safety rules that must be followed when working with metal tiles: video:

One of essential elements The main component of a house is its roof, which protects the house from various atmospheric phenomena of nature and keeps it warm. Therefore, the roof of the house must be reliable and durable. Basis strong roof is its frame - . From competently designed and correctly assembled structure The rafter frame determines the strength of the roof, and ultimately the durability of the building itself.

The structure of the rafter frame depends on the type of roofing and the loads on the roof. Loads on rafters can be permanent or temporary.

Constant loads are:

roofing weight;
weight of insulation materials;
weight finishing materials(when creating an attic floor);
weight of the rafter frame and sheathing.

When designing a frame, its type is first determined (depending on). Rafters can be hanging, layered or combined. The number of rafters, the distance between them and their cross-section depend on the type of attic. It can be attic or non-residential.

Wood is usually used to make rafters coniferous species. The humidity of the material should be no higher than 20%. Lumber used for the construction of the rafter system must be free from rot and blue staining.

The material of the rafters, sheathing and counter-lattice is treated with an antiseptic and fire retardants.

Preparatory stage

Creating a roof begins with choosing the type of roof and roofing material. In individual housing construction, metal roofing is the most popular. This type of roofing is light, durable, strong, has an attractive appearance, is quite easy to install and is inexpensive. Metal tiles are much lighter ceramic tiles(1 sq.m of ceramics is approximately 35 kg heavier than metal tiles).

Measure the length of the roof slope. Then this size must be divided by the step length between the rafters.
Add one to the resulting value and then round the resulting amount to a whole number. Using this method, the number of rafter legs for the roof slope is calculated.
After which it is necessary to divide the length of the slope by the number of rafters and determine their installation axes.
depends on the type of roofing and the slope of the roof slope.

Calculation example: let the length of the slope be 18 meters, and the step size will be 0.8. This means that 18:0.8 + 1=23.5 = 24 rafters are required to construct the roof frame.

Installation of rafters

Rafter systems for different kinds roofs have slight differences. They mainly depend on the weight and size of the coating sheets. To install the rafter system you will need following tools and materials:

chainsaw;
wood hacksaw;
carpenter's axe;
chisel;
construction stapler;
building level and plumb line;
hammer;
nails;
self-tapping screws;
metal rafter fastening elements;
electric drill;
screwdriver;
timber 150x150 mm (for Mauerlat);
board 50x150 mm (for rafters);
board 25x100 mm (for lathing);
block 30x50 mm (on the counter-lattice).

Having made the necessary calculations and prepared the required material and tools, we begin to assemble the rafter system for metal tiles. The order of work is as follows:

First of all, the mauerlat is installed from timber. This is the base of the roof, which takes on the main load from the rafter legs. The timber is laid and fastened (with anchor bolts) along the perimeter of the walls, onto a pre-prepared reinforcing belt. Waterproofing (a strip of roofing material) is laid under the timber.
On a flat surface (according to sketches) a template is made from smooth boards, according to which roof trusses. They are attached to the ridge metal plates or nails.
On the Mauerlat, at calculated distances, notches are made for installing rafter legs.
The prepared trusses are lifted and installed on the timber. First, the outer blocks are installed and secured. The verticality of the installation is checked with a plumb line.
A cord is stretched between the outer trusses and the remaining elements are installed along it. The rafter legs are attached to the mauerlat using metal corners and self-tapping screws.
Horizontal jumpers are installed near the top part.
At the bottom of the rafter legs, a cornice overhang is created with a projection of at least 50 cm from the wall. To do this, a beam or board is attached to the wall at the level of the ends of the rafters. A short board (filly) is attached to the end of the rafter leg at one end, and with the other end it is attached to the wall.

This completes the process of installing the roof frame; then it needs to be prepared for laying the roof.

Preparing the frame for laying the roof

The rafter system on which the metal tiles are laid is prepared as follows:

A waterproof film is placed on the rafters under the metal tiles and secured with a stapler. The film is installed with a sag of about 20 mm and an overlap of at least 150 mm. The edges of the canvases are glued together with adhesive tape.
A counter-lattice (30x50 mm bars) is attached on top of the installed film on the rafters; it serves to create ventilation gap roofs.
The sheathing (board 100x25 mm) is attached to the counter-lattice. The first sheathing board from the bottom should be twice as thick as the subsequent ones. The sheathing pitch is from 350 to 450 mm.
The drainage system fittings are installed on the prepared frame.

The installation of the rafter system is prepared for laying the metal roofing.

If you have certain construction skills and two assistants, you can make a strong roof frame yourself.

It is important to determine the pitch of the rafters for metal tiles; calculating this parameter is quite complicated. The strength of the roof depends on this parameter. This should be given some attention special attention because the strength of the fastening of the metal tiles to the rafters determines the durability of the entire roof and, accordingly, the building.

People prefer metal tiles because they are durable, practical and reliable roofing materials.

But not everyone understands that the tiles have a large mass - this requires strengthening the rafter structure. At the same time, not all roofers can lay metal tiles correctly, and the strength of the masonry directly depends on the strength of the rafter system. To properly cover the house, you should carefully calculate the rafters for the metal tiles. Below are calculations of what the rafter pitch should be.

How to calculate it

The pitch of the rafters is the distance from one leg of the rafter system to the other leg, otherwise it is called the step of the rafter legs. It is selected depending on the type of roof covering. On average, for all materials this size is in the range of 0.6 - 1.2 meters. However, for a specific (selected) material it is necessary to make accurate calculations of this parameter.

In order to make calculations (rafter pitch for metal tiles and required quantity materials for the legs of the rafter system), as well as to select timber for the rafter legs, you should use the following calculation method:

The first step is to measure the length of the slope. It is measured along the eaves of the roof.
Next, the pitch of the rafters is selected arbitrarily. The pitch limits for metal tiles are within 0.6 - 1 meter. For example, initially a step of 0.8 meters is taken.
The length of the slope measured earlier (step 1) should be divided by the selected step. For example, the measured length of the slope is 12 meters, respectively 12/0.8 = 15.
Next, one should be added to the resulting quotient. If the number is not an integer, then it should be rounded to a larger integer (not according to the rounding rules, but always up). Thus: 15+1 = 16. This will be required amount rafter legs.
Then the measured length (point 1) is divided by the number of rafters, the quotient of this fraction will be the distance between the rafters (legs). So, for the values selected as an example, the final length will be equal to: 12/16 = 0.75 meters.

This calculation is general for almost any type of roof, but some points should be taken into account specifically for metal tiles.

To determine the pitch, it is recommended to contact professional roofers or an architectural studio, because when carrying out independent calculations, a number of mistakes can be made. Subsequently, this can lead to roof collapse and other negative consequences.

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Structural elements for metal tiles

Since this particular roofing material has recently become one of the most popular, some rules and tips should be given when working with it. Visually, this material is similar to ordinary ceramic tiles, but unlike it, it has a number of advantages. So the installation of such material is simpler and takes less time than the installation of conventional ceramic tiles. Its other advantage is its much smaller mass (the difference is about 12 times!).

Less weight allows you to significantly simplify the design of the rafter system, as well as save on timber - you will need beams of a much smaller cross-section. Also compared to ceramics, metal tiles allows you to increase the interval between the legs, reduce the sections of the timber for the legs and the sections of the materials used for the sheathing.

If this type of coating is installed on wooden house, then it is necessary to lay the Mauerlat, which must be durable. In this case, a careful and detailed calculation should be made when choosing a Mauerlat and rafter system. This is due to the fact that after construction it is impossible to strengthen the structure (if necessary).

After determining the pitch of the rafters, you should determine the cross-section of the beam for them. Thus, the rafter system for metal tiles is determined from the table depending on the length of the rafters and the distance between them. Based on these indicators, the section of the beam is selected. For the selected parameters, this value will be 90x100 mm. Let's give another example: the length of the slope is 25 meters, the selected pitch of the rafter system is 0.8 meters. The preliminary number of legs in this case will be equal to: 25/0.8 = 31.25.

We round the resulting value up: 31.25 = 32. Add 1 to the resulting value: 32+1 = 33. Calculate the exact distance between the legs: 25/33 = 0.757 = 0.76 meters. The result obtained is 0.76 meters and is the step for the legs of the rafter system for metal tiles.

Thus, the optimal size for the legs of a rafter system for metal tiles is considered to be 50x150 beams, with a pitch of 0.65 to 1 meter. Further, based on the experience of working with such a coating, the optimal thickness of the insulating material is 0.15 meters, which will completely ensure the insulation of the roof. If there is a desire to increase the insulating properties, then the thickness is increased to 0.2 meters, which is more than enough. At the same time, the section of the beam for the legs should be increased by the same amount - up to 70x150. In the rafters themselves, holes for ventilation should be provided (drilled) (about 8-10 mm in diameter).

But most important difference rafter system for metal tiles is the installation of supports. If for ordinary material the support is attached not to the side of the ridge beam, but above it. In this case, at the junction of the beam and the ridge beam, a free space is formed where air circulates freely. This prevents condensation and moisture accumulation. This is very necessary for metal coating as it prevents corrosion and deterioration of the metal.

Metal tiles are one of the modern materials for roofing, combining an impressive appearance and affordable cost with a number of important technological advantages. The process of installing it is not too complicated: after familiarizing yourself with how to install a roof deck made of metal tiles, you can do such work with your own hands.

Of course, another option is always possible: save yourself the hassle by entrusting all the work to professionals. However, such a choice will cost much more, as a result of which not everyone will like this alternative.

So, if, after weighing all the pros and cons, we decided that we would cover the roof with metal tiles ourselves, then first of all we should familiarize ourselves with the technology and features of this process.

Characteristics of metal tiles

Metal tile material is a type of metal profile product that has a wavy surface characteristic of tiles. Its sheets are made from galvanized steel, and then they are coated with polymer compositions, giving the products an impressive appearance and resistance to adverse external factors.

Metal tile roofing has a number of important advantages, including the following:

High strength, resistance to mechanical and wind loads.
Light weight products and ease of installation. Covering a roof with metal tiles is not difficult; it does not require too much physical effort or the development of too complex skills.
Aesthetic appearance.
High resistance to corrosion processes.
Long service life of several decades.
Affordable price.

Having carefully studied the technology and procedure for covering a roof with metal tiles, you can carry out this work yourself, saving noticeably. It would be worth noting that the cost of installation work accounts for more than a third of the total costs of roofing.

Composition and design of metal tile roofing

Laying metal tiles on the roof is the process of installing a multi-layer structure consisting of the following parts:

A vapor barrier layer, represented by a film that allows steam to pass through, but blocks condensation and water to prevent the insulation from getting wet. The vapor barrier film is laid on the lower surface of the rafters, after which it is secured using a construction stapler.
Rafters, the number and strength of which largely determine the reliability of the roofing covering as a whole. You should accurately calculate the attachment points of the rafters and the distance between them, and then carefully install them.
A layer of insulating material that is attached between rafter legs designs. For this reason, the width of the insulation should be taken into account when arranging the rafter frame.
A waterproofing layer, the material of which is laid over the rafters and protects the wooden frame structures from exposure to moisture or condensation.
Lathing used for subsequent laying of metal tiles. Its function is to evenly distribute the weight of the roofing covering.
Metal tiles laid on top of the sheathing structure, followed by fixation using self-tapping screws.

It should be noted that metal tile roofing can be of two types: cold and warm. Included cold roof there are no vapor barrier and thermal insulation layers. Naturally, such a roof will cost much less, but with this option, heating the attic and top floor will present significant difficulties. Therefore, if the question is how to cover an attic roof with metal tiles, it is better to use a warm roofing option.

Stages and procedure for installing a metal tile roof with your own hands

To ensure the reliability and long service life of a metal tile roof, you must first study in detail the features and rules of installation work, and then adhere to them during the installation process.

If we take a closer look at the question of how to properly cover a roof with metal tiles, the step-by-step instructions for this work are as follows:

Arrangement rafter structures. The rafter frame can be metal, but is more often made of wood coniferous trees, which is impregnated with an antiseptic and fire retardant. First, the support beam of the Mauerlat is installed, which is fixed using anchor bolts or metal pins mounted in the concrete. Next, the timber ties that secure the Mauerlat are installed at a distance of 1-1.2 meters from each other. After this, vertical posts are mounted in the middle of each of the strings, at intervals of 1-1.2 meters, using temporary supports for them. Then a ridge beam is laid on top of the racks, onto which the rafter legs are then attached. The distance between the rafters can vary, usually from 60 to 120 centimeters, and depends on the weight of the roof, the thickness of the rafters themselves and the width of the insulation.
Covering the rafters with a layer of waterproofing material, which is laid horizontally, with some sagging and without tension, in order to avoid breakthrough under the weight of water. The waterproofing material is attached directly to the rafters using staples or stainless steel nails with a wide head.
Installation of sheathing, for the construction of which wooden slats approximately 3 centimeters thick or sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are used. The spacing between the sheathing elements can also vary depending on the weight and steepness of the roof - for flatter roofs this distance should be smaller, and the sheathing itself should be stronger.
Installation of an eaves strip, to secure which a front board is mounted in the area of the roof eaves to the ends of the rafters. The cornice strip is laid on top of the front board and fixed with galvanized nails.
Installation of a vapor barrier layer, which is then covered with a layer of thermal insulation. The vapor barrier material is laid on the lower surface of the rafter legs, and the subsequent installation of insulation is carried out between the rafter elements. As thermal insulation material can be used mineral wool, glass wool, polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, etc.
Installation of additional valley elements, which are fastened to the sheathing structure.
The flooring of the metal roofing itself. This process also includes several stages. First, if necessary, metal tile sheets are cut to fit the surface to be covered. Then the bottom row of sheets is laid out, with an overlap of 10-20 centimeters. Next, the subsequent rows are laid. It is advisable to treat the joint areas between the sheets with sealant to prevent water leakage. All sheets of metal tiles are secured using galvanized self-tapping screws with a press washer.
After completion of the laying of the main part of the roof structure, the installation of ridge, end and other additional elements is carried out, as well as the installation of the roof drainage system.

How to roof different types of roof

Although in general the installation of metal tile coverings has much in common, regardless of the roof structure, nevertheless, for certain types of roofs this process may have certain differences and nuances. For example, for someone who is going to cover a hipped roof with metal tiles, or is thinking about how to cover a sloping roof with metal tiles, it is important to study some Additional features in this case before starting work. Otherwise, during installation and further operation you may encounter quite significant problems and unforeseen situations.

The classic and simplest roofing options are single-pitched and double-pitched structures. When looking for a solution on how to cover a gable roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you just need to follow the general work plan outlined above. The answer to the question of how to cover a pitched roof with metal tiles is even simpler. In this case, there is no need to equip the ridge and valleys, and all that is required is the direct installation of the roof itself. You just need to remember that shed roofs can be with or without an attic, and like other roofs, they can be equipped with either an insulated or a cold version.

It is somewhat more difficult to install multi-pitched roofs, as well as roofs with complex structures. This may include, for example, roofing sloping roof metal tiles. Broken roofs can have different numbers of slopes that continue each other, increasing the interior space and comfort of the living space as a whole. The process of arranging a sloping roof made of metal tiles with your own hands is generally the same as regular roofs, however, it is additionally required to close the joint areas, which may allow water to pass through during precipitation. In this case, the waterproofing is laid along the slopes, and in the same way you can install insulation material and lathing.

In case of arrangement complex roofs with four or more slopes, it is recommended to use special steel elements that support the rafters and keep their location unchanged. The use of strong steel supports is also desirable for the most loaded ridge beams. It should be noted that hipped roofs They differ from gable ones in the absence of gables, instead of which additional triangular slopes are installed at the end sections. This type of structure is more difficult to install, but is characterized by greater reliability and durability.

Finally, it should be taken into account that building a roof with your own hands may require builders to use non-standard solutions and ideas, the practical choice of which always depends on a particular situation.

How to cover a roof with metal tiles: we lay a gable and hipped roof with our own hands, how to cover it correctly, step-by-step instructions

DIY metal roofing

Metal tiles are one of the popular roofing materials, which are characterized by reliability, durability and affordability. In order to carry out high-quality work on covering the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, you must follow the instructions below. But first, let's look at what is so remarkable about this material and what disadvantages it has.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal tiles

Among the advantages of this coating are:

Light weight, which allows you to cover the roof without much effort;
The work will not cause difficulties and no special training will be required; it is enough to have basic knowledge in this area;
The service life is very long, which allows you to not think about covering for a long time;
Affordable price and high wear resistance no less important criterion when choosing roofing material;
Such material does not burn, and under the influence of high temperatures does not melt or deform;
A huge selection and stylish appearance will allow you to find a suitable option for everyone, without exception.

The only drawback that many buyers cite is its noise. But even this can be dealt with if you take care of sound insulation when covering.

We cover the roof with metal tiles correctly: step-by-step instructions

To do this work yourself correctly, you must follow all the rules outlined in the step-by-step instructions. So where to start:

Carry out the necessary calculations to find out the amount of materials, not forgetting about the insulation and fasteners;
Cover around the chimney;
Lay the material using one of the options.

Calculation of the amount of metal tiles per roof

Typically width full sheet more work area. This difference can be from 80 to 120 mm. therefore, when purchasing material you need to know exact dimensions working covering.

To perform the calculation correctly, you need to focus on the following formula:

The greatest length of the material is divided by its width. The resulting figure must be rounded upward.

First you need to measure the length of the slope, while the overhang of the cornice must also be taken into account;
The overlap is 0.15 m per row. If it is possible to lay the coating in one row, then the overlap does not need to be taken into account.

Having measured both indicators, they are added together.

If the purchased metal tiles were made to order according to certain sizes, then in order to correctly calculate all the indicators it is better to use the help of specialists.

The sizes of such material range from 70 cm to 12 meters.

But the most optimal option would be a coating with dimensions of 4 - 4.5 m.

Apron equipment

Where the chimney passes through the ceiling, care should be taken to take care of the inside of the junction.

Do-it-yourself installation of the apron should be done according to the following scheme:

The base material must match the color of the strips;
The groove made in the pipe should be about 15 cm deep, and the slope should be slight;
Heat-resistant insulation must be installed on the chimney pipe. The place of contact must be glued with tape;

Where chimney passes the roof level, it is wrapped with a special film.

A decorative apron can be installed when the sheets of metal tiles are laid on the roof. External connecting strips are placed on the chimney so that their upper part moves into the prepared groove. For more reliable protection, the joints are filled with heat-resistant sealant. And the lower part of the slats needs to be attached with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.

And for protection brick chimney from possible cracking, the pipe must be wrapped with steel with your own hands polymer coating. To ensure good ventilation, it is necessary to leave a small gap, about 20 mm.

Chimney with round must be insulated where the roof surface passes. To do this you can take special tape, which has the ability to self-expand. It perfectly seals all holes, including the entire diameter.

Installation of metal tiles: sequence of work

To ensure that installing the roofing yourself does not cause much difficulty, you need to take care of the method of supplying the metal tiles to the roof. To do this, it is recommended to make logs.

If the roof large sizes or it is not possible to store all the purchased material near the house, then you can try to make a kind of shelving with your own hands. All materials will need to be transferred there, and then installed. To prevent the sheets from being damaged during storage, they must be arranged with slats during moving.

As soon as the metal tile is in place, the protective film coating should be removed.

If you have to walk on laid material, you need to know how to do it correctly so as not to damage it. The first is caution. Before you step on anything, you need to carefully select a place for it. Secondly, movements should be carried out only along the sheets and step only between the waves of material.

If you need to walk across the covering, then the place where your foot will step should be a fold. Thirdly, you need to wear soft shoes when covering the roof, this will help avoid damage to the material.

If you have to cover it in rainy weather, then water may get into the joints. All moisture is squeezed up under the force of the second sheet. To completely eliminate moisture accumulation, each sheet of material contains a special groove, which helps drain unnecessary water. There are some species that have such a groove on both sides, but mostly it is on one side, on the right. When laying sheets of metal tiles, you should ensure that this groove is covered by the subsequent coating.

Having laid the beginning of the row, you can continue to cover in any direction:

The direction of installation is chosen for personal reasons regarding convenience. But the beginning of installation should begin from the side on which there are no cuts or bevels. You need to cover, focusing on another roof slope or valley.

If the process begins on the left, then the sheets laid after should lie on the wave of the sheet in front of it. And the groove should be on the left side of the coating.

If the laying principle provides for a direction from the right, then the groove is overlapped using the edge next sheet, finding yourself under a wave of material. The second method of covering is much easier and simpler, since shifting of the laid material is eliminated. But it is also very easy to scratch.

Whatever method of laying this work is carried out, the initial sheets should be placed parallel to the eaves, and the length of the overhang should not be more than 50 mm.

You can cover the roof with sheets using two technologies:

Place the material in one row;
Perform multi-layer styling.

How to lay metal tiles in one row

This technology involves installation to the right of the edge. This means that the coating should be leveled, focusing on the ends and cornices. When the first sheet is aligned with them, it needs to be fixed in the middle, not far from the ridge. Subsequent materials are applied with slight overlap. Usually, one wave of sheet is enough for good strength. After aligning the second sheet in relation to the first, it is also fixed, but not in the middle, but together with the previous sheet. Using this method, blocks of 4 sheets are laid out. The resulting block is aligned with respect to the cornice and end and, leaving room for overhang, the entire structure is attached to the sheathing boards. Last page It is necessary to fasten it in the block when the last block has been adjusted. In the figure below, you can take a closer look at this installation method.

Multi-row fastening method

This installation method involves covering the roof according to the following scheme:

The roof needs to be on the right side. The initial sheet must be leveled relative to the end and cornice. Another covering element is mounted on top and attached to the first sheet, after aligning the two sheets. The next sheet must be mounted to the left of the first covering element, and also fastened to it. The fourth element should be laid on top of the third, and this continues until the end of the roof. Having completed two rows of such covering, the block is fixed on a wooden sheathing.

In the figure below you can see the described circuit.

Laying material on the ridge

Before installation begins, markings should be made on the slope and the central axis should be determined. On one sheet of metal tile you should do the same, mark the central axis. Place the surface of the slope and the sheet of material together; the latter must be secured with a self-tapping screw. Subsequent sheets should be laid on both sides of the ridge using one of the above methods.

What points you need to pay attention to

Metal tiles should be fastened only at the point where the sheathing boards touch;
The bottom sheet must be mounted, passing one wave over the step;
Subsequent rows are fastened at a short distance relative to the steps;
When attaching the material from the beginning of the end board, it is necessary to use all the waves;
The laid material must fit tightly to the sheathing boards;
When covering vertically, the material is secured using self-tapping screws into the recess of the waves.

Having examined the process of covering the roof with sheets of metal tiles with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the processing of the sheets.

It is prohibited to use a grinder when working with metal tiles, as the coating can be damaged, and this will lead to further corrosion. For these purposes, it is recommended to use cutting electric scissors or a jigsaw. A hacksaw for metal work is also suitable.
Areas of damage to the material must be treated with paint to avoid further rusting.

In the figure below, you can see how to lay the material yourself.

In the picture shown, number 3 means waterproofing film;

Number 4 means sheathing;
Number 21 - end board;
Number 22 - outer corner;
Number 23 - self-tapping screw.

End strip

If it is installed correctly, then it serves not only as decorative element, but also as a protective one. It allows you to protect fasteners from harmful influence factors environment. Preventing moisture from entering is also within her purview.

It is intended for refining external joints. Lead excess moisture also within her power. When attaching the upper valley, it is necessary to ensure that the screws do not damage the lower valley; this can lead to damage to the waterproofing.

straight.

If the roof has a slope with a straight bend, then the sheathing boards should be placed fairly close to each other. The coating material must cover the area of the direct fracture, with a small protrusion.

If the roof has a reverse bend, then it is necessary to use a wall connection, which will act as a connecting element. Where there is a reverse break, the sheathing boards should be fairly close to each other. And between the metal tile and the junction there should be a layer of sealant.

Construction of a gable roof rafter system for metal tiles

Metal tiles are a lightweight, durable, effective roofing material that ideally solves problems low-rise construction. Its steel endurance is perfectly combined with undeniable technological advantages. Laying large-sized sheets is done tens of times faster compared to piece-meal competitors. It lasts a long time and does not require a powerful base. You can install the roof and build a simple frame for installation with your own hands. There will be no difficulties in your work if you know how a gable roof is structured - the rafter system for metal tiles and the installation process must take into account the technical and technological features of the coating.

Metal tiles - roofing with an “iron” character

Metal tiles belong to the class of rolled products. In essence, it is the old familiar sheet steel, profiled in two mutually perpendicular directions. The longitudinal and transverse waves formed as a result of profiling give the sheets a similarity to the ceramic roofing prototype. Outside equip with color polymer film, performing protective and decorative functions.

Disadvantages of the material and ways to eliminate them

The ability to imitate roofing ceramics did not rid the material of the standard disadvantages of metal. Thin sheets quickly heat up under the sun's rays and quickly say goodbye to the heat at the slightest drop in ambient temperature. There is no insulation: heat and sound waves easily penetrate inside the steel roof and go outside unhindered. The list of disadvantages is significantly supplemented by the ability to collect condensate due to the difference in the thermal properties of the coating itself and the rafter frame elements in contact with it.

Low insulation performance and condensation are two “scourges” of a metal roof. You can get rid of them by arming yourself with information about the proper construction of a frame with a correctly laid roofing pie. If the installation of the rafter system for metal tiles is carried out in accordance with all technological requirements, complications with laying the material and operating the structure will not arise.

To ensure that the traditional behavior of a steel roof does not bother owners and does not cause premature wear, it is necessary to correctly distribute the layers roofing pie. Responsibility for distribution lies with the rafter system, the list of responsibilities of which includes:

Retention of the components of the roofing pie, which are laid on top, below and between the rafters.
Formation of air channels that eliminate condensation, and often the possibility of its occurrence.
Preparation of a number of supports aligned in one plane for the installation of future slopes by laying profiled sheets.

If we figuratively compare the roofing system with a living organism, then let’s say this: the “patient” will live and function normally only with a healthy supporting apparatus. In our case with a rafter frame. The method of dealing with the shortcomings of a steel coating lies precisely in choosing and strictly following an impeccably suitable installation scheme for the rafter system for the subsequent installation of metal tiles.

Types of rafter systems for metal roofing

Roofs with metal tile covering are erected over permanent and temporary residences. Gazebos, verandas, and bathhouses covered with metal “scales” look interesting. Depending on the purpose of the structure and the conditions of its operation, roofs with metal tiles are installed with or without insulation. The presence of thermal insulation is closely related to the structure of the rafter frame:

For insulated roofs, a system is constructed that includes three insulating layers and one or two ventilation circuits.
For cold roofs, a system with one insulating layer and one ventilation circuit is installed.

Insulated roof structures are erected if you plan to actively use the attic all year round. Rafter frames warm roofs calculated so that the insulation boards are located in the space between the rafters. Analogs without insulation are installed on small dachas and buildings intended for temporary residence.

A roof without thermal insulation is also constructed in the case of insulation attic floor. For example, above a bathhouse or a residential building with a low attic space that is clearly not intended for use, it is more reasonable to lay insulation between the ceiling beams or above them.

In the construction of rafter frames, rolled metal and lumber are used for laying profiled sheets. Hardware properties are closer to coatings, but wood is more suitable for the tasks of private construction. It is easier to work with it for an independent owner who has decided to build and cover the roof with his own hands.

It’s easy to make all the frame elements yourself from lumber, assemble and connect them into a rafter system. Wood is warmer and more attractive in terms of environmental aspects.

Advantages of a gable design

The most simple option In the construction of a rafter system for laying metal tiles, a design with two slopes is rightfully recognized. Its rectangular planes are ideal for laying sheets of similar shape. A hip or broken mansard roof will require much more effort and diligence. Many owners are depressed by the increased consumption of large-sheet material for roofing structures with full-length and shortened hips, and are not happy with the complexity of cutting.

Manufacturers claim that the optimal design for laying metal tiles will be a design with a slope angle of 12 to 15º. Structures of lesser steepness must be equipped with a reinforced waterproofing carpet. On steeper roofs, the number of fasteners increases and the installation step decreases. In both situations, the budget for the arrangement will be increased due to the purchase of additional insulating materials and hardware products.

Depending on the size of the metal tile and the dimensions of the structure being installed, the sheets are laid in one, two or more rows. Laying in one row is a priority, because transverse seams reduce insulation parameters and are potentially dangerous for leaks. Manufacturers consider the best sheet length for arranging the roofs of private houses to be 4-4.5 m. Among the offers of most metal tile suppliers there is a very popular service for cutting sheets to size, which is incredibly convenient for laying on slopes with custom sizes. The length of the sheet is equal to the sum of the length of the slope and the length of the overhang, which is 0.4-0.6 m, depending on the architectural solution.

The metal tiles are mounted on the sheathing, which in turn is attached to the rafter system. The lines of all structural parts of a gable roof are strictly vertical and horizontal, which significantly facilitates the process of laying profiled sheets with similar edges. If the rafter system is built without flaws, then there will be no problems with installing the sheathing and roofing.

Construction of the rafter system

We found out that the rafter system works in tandem with the roofing pie. The layout of the rafter frame is directly related to the number of “cake” layers. Let's analyze the most complex insulated design option and find out which components we do not need to build a cold roof.

The rafter structure of a gable roof is a series of alternately installed pairs of rafter legs, the design features of which depend on the architectural data of the box being equipped. The manufacture and installation of a gable roof truss system is carried out in accordance with the rules regulated by:

Layered technology, requiring two specific supports for the top and bottom of each rafter leg. It is used if the building has an internal load-bearing wall or rather powerful columns are installed instead. The use of the layered method is allowed if the ridge girder racks can be installed on the floor beams with a high bearing capacity or if the ceiling is made of reinforced concrete slabs.
Hanging technology, requiring support only for the bottom of the rafter legs. The top of the elements of the hanging rafter system rests against each other in pairs. It is used if the box does not have an internal load-bearing wall and the ability to install supports under the ridge girder.

Option #1 - rafter frame for a warm roof

The use of insulation forces one to resort to technological tricks, thanks to which the layer important for the structure can retain its insulating qualities. And they will inevitably shrink when wet, because... The water that appears in the body of the material will facilitate the passage of heat waves.

Water appears in thermal insulation in three situations:

Penetration of household fumes attacking thermal insulation from inside the structure being used.
Formation of condensation due to the difference in temperature outside the building and in the attic.
Leaks observed during snowmelt and heavy precipitation, resulting from non-compliance with technology and operational errors.

A properly laid roofing pie, correctly distributed and securely fixed by the rafter system, is simply required to eliminate the listed misfortunes. In addition, the responsibilities of the rafter structure include the formation of ventilation channels through which air flows wash the thermal insulation and the inner surface of the metal tiles.

Ventilation channels created by installing lathing and counter-lattice create conditions for regular ventilation and removal of condensate from the space under the roof, thereby prolonging life cycle the roof itself and the wooden parts of the rafter system.

If we imagine a conventional cut of a warm roofing pie with a rafter system from the inside of an already finished structure, then the sequence of layers and ventilation ducts will be as follows:

Clapboard, plasterboard panels, or similar material used for the interior of an attic space.
Internal lathing designed to secure the vapor barrier layer to the rafters.
Vapor barrier that prevents household fumes from penetrating into the insulation.
Rafters between which insulation is laid. The width of the rafter leg should be 3-4 cm greater than the thickness of the thermal insulation. In other words, between the upper plane formed by adjacent rafters and outer surface the insulation must leave the specified gap for ventilation. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the width of the rafters, i.e. The thermal insulation lies flush with the conventional plane of the slope; a lathing made of timber with a side of 30 or 40 mm is nailed to the rafter legs. This will create the required gap.
Waterproofing, which is laid either on the rafters, if there was no need to install a counter-lattice, or on a counter-lattice. Classic polyethylene waterproofing film It is forbidden to come into contact with the insulation so that moisture does not appear in the body. Waterproofing materials of the class of polymer diffuse membranes are allowed to lie directly on the insulation, because they are able to let excess moisture out without letting it in. Therefore, when using polymer membranes, there is no need to create a ventilation channel between the hydro- and thermal insulation.
External sheathing that simultaneously performs three significant functions. It is used for fastening waterproofing, to form another air gap between the waterproofing and the metal covering and serves as the basis for installing sheets of metal tiles.
Finish coating.

Bitumen varieties cannot be used as waterproofing for roofing systems under metal tiles and corrugated sheets. roll materials. When heated, the insulation and roofing will release substances that destroy each other's structure.

Let's summarize. A standard roofing pie for an insulated roof has three layers and two ventilation circuits, if classic waterproofing was used in construction. There are three layers and one ventilation channel in a cake with polymer diffuse waterproofing. All components are attached to the rafter system, which must firmly support the weight of the materials and snow load. For domestic middle zone magnitude total load is approximately 200 kg/m².

Most often, rafter legs for metal roofs are made from boards with a cross-section of 50×100 or 50×150 mm, if the rafter installation step recommended by the material manufacturer has been followed. If the distances between the rafter legs are greater than the recommended value, the cross-section of the outer sheathing should be increased.

Option #2 - rafter structure for a cold roof

The diagram of a roof structure without insulation clearly confirms that there is no thermal insulation layer in it. This means that there is also no need to install all types of insulation protection from getting wet. However, waterproofing is still needed to protect the wooden rafter system in case of leaks. And ventilation between the water-repellent material and metal coatings should also be built.

The cross-section of a cold roofing cake for metal tiles looks like this:

Rafter legs, the cross-section of which is calculated without taking into account the weight of the insulation and related components.
A waterproofing layer laid over the rafters.
Lathing designed to provide a ventilation gap, fix waterproofing and fasten sheets of metal tiles.

The sheathing for both types of rafter systems is laid in a special way. The step of its installation is determined by the distance between adjacent transverse steps of the metal tile sheet. The distance depends on the brand of roofing, on average it is 300, 350 and 400mm.

The dimensions of the starting lath should be different from the subsequent ordinary bars. For example, if all ordinary laths are made of a block with a cross-section of 30x50mm, then to make the very first element from the eaves line you need to take a block of 50x50mm. The distance between the starting block and the cornice line is always less than the step between the row laths. So it is necessary that the first transverse step of the sheet lies exactly on the base.

The procedure for laying metal tiles on a gable roof

In the vast majority of cases, when repairing a roof, the choice falls on metal tiles.

In addition to the long list of economic and operational advantages, this material is also interesting for its suitability for self-installation.

In this case, even the basic skills of a home craftsman will be enough to ensure that the roof is not only durable and practical, but also attractive in appearance.

Advantages of metal tiles

The widespread use of metal tiles is due to the combination of the following advantages in this type of roofing material:

Compared to most other roofing coverings, metal tiles have a relatively low cost.

What makes purchasing such a roof even more profitable is the ability to avoid hiring builders to install it, as well as its long service life.

Light weight.

With an average weight of 1 sq. m of material is about 6 kg, the total mass of the roof is relatively small. This allows you to do without the use of a powerful and expensive rafter system. In addition, a lightweight roof does not require the installation of continuous sheathing, which simplifies the calculation of the roof and reduces the cost of work.

Resistance against external factors. Protection is provided by the use of several security words in the design of the roofing sheet. Therefore, the metal base of the canvas is not afraid of prolonged exposure to moisture, direct sunlight, or damage during installation or hail.
Aesthetics. The production technology of metal tiles allows you to create absolutely any texture. Accordingly, on the market you can easily choose an option suitable for the overall exterior of the building. The range is further expanded by the possibility of painting sheets in all shades of the palette.
Fire safety. The basis of the metal tile is a sheet of galvanized steel. This material is completely non-flammable, making it absolutely fireproof.

The indicated advantages of metal roofing make it the most practical, affordable and attractive externally a roofing option.

Materials and tools

To install metal tile sheets, you will need a set of traditional tools for finishing work:

electric screwdriver;
jigsaw or circular saw;
marker;
construction stapler with staples;
metal scissors;
scotch;
laser plane builder or building level;
roulette.

Of the materials, in addition to the metal tile itself and its accessories, you will need the following:

bars 50 x 50 mm;
boards 100 wide and 25–35 mm thick;
sheet waterproofing material;
wooden slats;
galvanized screws, nails.

You will also need personal protective equipment and auxiliary equipment: a ladder, scaffolding, a brush for sweeping away debris, etc.

Structure of the roofing “pie”

A layer of waterproofing material (3) is laid on top of the rafter system. Without it, moisture condensing on a metal roofing sheet will be absorbed into the wooden structures under the roof, destroying them. Waterproofing also helps in cases where the roof begins to leak.

Vertical slats - counter-lattice (4) - are attached to the waterproofing material along the rafters. Their purpose is to organize a ventilated space between the waterproofing and the sheathing.

Installation procedure

On gable roofs metal tiles are laid first on one slope, and then on the other.

Laying sheets of metal tiles should begin with lower slope angle.

All installation work on roofing is carried out in several stages:

Checking the geometry of load-bearing roof elements

At this stage, the diagonals of the roof slopes are measured and compared using a tape measure. If they coincide, then the roof has a rectangular shape suitable for laying metal tiles.

Installation of the frontal board and filing of the roof overhang

The place where the front board is attached (8) is the end (bottom) part of the rafters (1). This roofing element is fixed with galvanized nails.

Front boards should not completely isolate the under-roof space from the street. To ensure free passage of air, ventilation gaps must remain between them.

A horizontal sheathing is installed on the reverse side of the front board under the roof overhang. As such, you can use perforated plastic panels. This option is convenient because it allows you to use fastening j-straps for plastic, nailed to the front board from behind. If boards are used, ventilation slots should be left between them.

Installation of gutter hooks

Hooks(9) should be placed in a straight line with a slope towards the planned drainage. Reliable drainage will be ensured by the slope angle from 5 mm per meter of gutter.

The most practical and easy to install are hooks of extended length. They are sewn to the bottom of the rafters on top of the front board. To ensure the vertical position of the hook, grooves of the required depth are cut in the board and the bottom of the rafters.

First of all, the upper part of the hook is nailed or screwed to the top of the rafters. Then it is bent to the required position and fixed on the end of the rafters. If the drainage system is installed after laying the metal tiles, then short hooks are used, the upper part of which does not go under the roofing.

Laying waterproofing material

Along the rafters on top of the waterproofing they are stuffed vertical(4) and horizontal(6) laths made of wooden strips. They are nailed along the central part of the rafter beams.

Installation of sheathing

The topmost beams of the sheathing are also stuffed with decrease step, right up to nailing the beams tightly. This will facilitate the installation of ridge elements and add strength the entire structure. Around roof and dormer windows, chimneys, ventilation ducts and other additional elements(bridges, snow guards, etc.) the sheathing should also be strengthened by stuffing a continuous web of beams.

Installation of curtain rods

The eaves strip is attached with a slight tension, then the roofing material will be more resistant to gusts of wind and less noisy.

Installation of the lower valley

Where the roof planes (for example, the slope of the roof of a house and the slope of the roof of a dormer window) form intersections at a slight angle, the installation of a special strip is required - the lower valley (20b).

A continuous plank sheathing (7) is placed under it. Boards with a cross section of 150 x 25 mm are applied as lathing material.

Under the lower valley you will need a continuous strip of sheathing about 300 mm wide.

Installing a chimney outlet bypass

For a brick chimney pipe, the procedure will be as follows:

A layer of waterproofing is applied around the perimeter with an overlap of 50 mm on the pipe. For fixation, you can use heat-resistant tape;
bypass strips (28) are installed;
A groove about 15 mm deep is cut along the pipe, into which the upper edges of the bypass strip are inserted. You can only tap on solid bricks; it is prohibited to do this on masonry joints;
The drainage bar organizes the drainage of water, which either drains into the nearest valley or is directed to the eaves.

Installation of metal tile sheets

If it is possible to lay sheets along the entire roof slope in one row, the installation order will be as follows:

the outermost sheet is applied and its position is verified relative to the eaves and side section of the roof;
the first sheet is fixed in the upper part with one self-tapping screw;
the next sheet is laid with an overlap in the wave and aligned vertically;
the sheets are sewn together with self-tapping screws, but the threads should not be screwed into the beams;
the following sheets are mounted in the same way;
the resulting assembly is once again verified relative to the ridge and cornice;
screws are screwed into the sheathing.

If the height of the sheet is less than the length of the slope and you have to lay the metal tiles in several rows, the procedure will be as follows:

the first two sheets are laid according to the same pattern as for single-row installation;
the third sheet is placed on top of the first with a horizontal offset of 150 mm, after which these two sheets are fastened together;
the next sheet is placed above the second and attached to it horizontally. With the third sheet, fastening is carried out on the vertical side;
four fastened sheets are aligned together and, by tightening the screws, fixed to the sheathing.

Dormer window device (“cuckoo”)

The location of the "cuckoo" is determined early. When laying sheets of metal tiles, areas corresponding to configurations dormer window.

Roofing pie under the window neatly sawed out. By perimeter windows are being installed additional sheathing beams.

Gaps between the timber and the sheet of metal tiles are sealed. To drain water, install valleys the top and bottom of the dormer window.

Installing the end strip

The purpose of this slats(29) – protection from precipitation and sharp gusts of wind penetrating under the metal tiles. In addition, the end strip also performs decorative function: when installed correctly, its upper edge overlaps crest waves of metal tiles. Screw The end strip starts from the side of the cornice. If it is necessary to build up, provide an overlap in 100 mm.

Installation of the upper valley

The purpose of this element is to drain water, in addition, upper valley(20a) makes roof joints more aesthetically pleasing.

Installation of abutment strips

These planks allow you to organize careful And sealed transition from the roof surface to adjacent walls and other structural elements of the building and roof.

The connection to the wall is arranged according to the same principle as the connection to the chimney.

Installation of ridge strips and external corners

The ridge is fastened with self-tapping screws screwed into sheathing through the covering wave. To increase the ridge strip, organized overlaps, serving as additional ribs rigidity.

End parts of the ridge are closed with external corners fixed with self-tapping screws. Between the metal tile and the ridge strip is laid insulation made of elastic material.

Installation of stairs, walkway, roof railing and snow guard

Roofing accessories made of metal tiles are mounted on top of the roofing.

Their places placement are determined in advance and are intensifying additional beams and sheathing boards.

Particular attention is paid to installation snow guard(21). It is fixed to the rafters complete reinforced screws.

Installation of a drainage system

When installing water drainage systems The following rules should be followed from the roof:

to one drain pipe it is forbidden install more than 10 meters of drainage gutter;
Part gutters above the funnel should be cut at an angle with sides in 100–110 mm;
funnel should be located under the gutter at a distance of 150 mm.

Roof grounding with a separate bus

Since metal tiles have the ability to conduct electricity, then for safety reasons it should be provided with a system grounding.

Post-installation processing

Metal tiles require periodic inspection(semiannually). From the roof and drainage system clean up debris and leaves, and the surface cleanse soft brush.

The canvas in problem areas can be tint, this will increase its corrosion resistance.

Installing counter battens under the rafters

The system of counter-battens under the rafters allows for insulation roofs. They are used as counter rails wooden beams or planks nailed.

Laying vapor barrier and fastening with slats

Wooden slats are placed on top of the vapor barrier for fixing whole pie.

How to build a garage with a gable roof with your own hands, read in this article.

Safety precautions

be sure to wear safety belt, tied with a strong rope to a strong part of the building;
work in shoes that have good clutch with surface;
stairs And forests securely fasten to the walls of the house;
roof protect scaffolding, scaffolding, mesh or sides with a height of at least 1 m.

When working with metal tiles the following rules should be adhered to:

always use mittens;
to not allow applying excessive force to metal;
take into account the strength of the wind and windage sheets of metal tiles.

The procedure for laying metal tiles on a gable roof: how to install it correctly with your own hands, technology step by step, video

In the vast majority of cases during repairs gable roof the choice falls on metal tiles. In addition to the long list of economic and operational advantages, this material is also interesting for its suitability for self-installation.