At what depth and at what distance to plant potatoes: diagram and instructions. Optimal distance when planting potatoes Rules for planting potatoes distance between rows

With the onset of spring, many people begin to garden again, because the spring season is the most suitable for caring for their plot and planting new crops. As you know, potatoes, which are almost the basis of the diet, are also planted in the spring. We'll talk about how to do this correctly in our article.

Peculiarities

Despite the fact that potatoes are a traditional agricultural crop, and usually planting them does not cause any difficulties for gardeners, it should be noted that this crop has a number of features that should not be forgotten.

It is necessary to pay great attention to the timing of planting potatoes, which are not limited to certain dates, but are calculated according to the weather. If early spring has arrived, then potatoes can be planted just as early. This is due to the factor of soil warming; if it is warmed up well enough, it will be able to provide seedlings with opportunities for development and growth. Experienced farmers advise planting potatoes in early May, since by this time in most regions a fairly warm weather. According to them, ideal temperature for landing - +8... 10 degrees. If you plant a crop earlier, it will most likely freeze and will not be able to germinate.

Another feature of planting this crop is that the distance between the rows must be very accurately calculated, because this affects the size of the tubers and the development of their root systems. The farther the beds are located from each other, the better. We will say more about the distance between the rows below, but for now we note that too small a distance not only makes it difficult to step, but can also harm the fruit.

Tools

Planting potatoes on your own is a rather difficult task, since the gardener must only perform the entire range of agricultural work with his own efforts: plow the land, fertilize it, hill it, plant the crop, weed it. Modern technologies help solve this problem: by using a walk-behind tractor, you can reduce the labor intensity of the work performed, making the process of planting potatoes faster and more efficient.

The walk-behind tractor is a small copy of a tractor, which is designed to make it easier and faster country work, for example, it can be supplemented with a mower, plow, hiller, and irrigation system. Depending on additional tools and units, you can expand the range of capabilities of the walk-behind tractor. Sometimes it is even used as a cargo carrier, with a trolley attached behind it.

Depending on the type of site and its dimensions, it is recommended to use different types walk-behind tractors, for example, for standard plots of 6-7 acres, devices such as Neva, Carver, Huter are suitable. You can also turn to cultivators, but they have less power, and are also used only for narrowly targeted actions: loosening the soil and pre-planting it.

For larger areas, walk-behind tractors from the following companies are suitable: Profi, Viking, Caiman. They are more powerful and are more suitable for professional farmers than for summer residents.

How to plant correctly?

Most gardeners tend to plant as many potatoes as possible, placing them fairly close together. They hope that this way they will be able to harvest a larger harvest using a small planting area. However, this belief is erroneous, because practice demonstrates the importance of the potato planting scheme. For example, the distance between potato beds can directly affect the size of the fruit. That is why there are rules showing how to plant potatoes correctly.

Before you start directly planting this vegetable, you must first remove the grass from the area, dig up the soil and fertilize it, after which you just mark out the area. Often, several special pegs are used for this, between which a cord is secured. The stakes must be driven into the soil at the edges of the proposed ridge.

Experienced gardeners advise making pegs of such a height that they are equal to the width of the path between the planting rows. Thanks to this action, you will not need to use a centimeter several times to calculate the distance between the beds.

After completing the above-described manipulations, you can proceed directly to planting the potato crop. There are several ways to do this correctly.

Row planting of potatoes under a shovel is one of the most common, popular and time-tested methods. As part of this method, you need to use a shovel to create holes in the ridge, which will be 25-35 centimeters apart from each other. In order not to calculate the distance between holes each time, it is necessary to use a marker, which can be a special peg.

It is important to understand that there is no ideal distance between holes, because each potato variety requires different fruit parameters. Thus, crops with sparse tops can be planted at a distance of 25 cm, while for later varieties with dense tops this parameter must be increased to 35 cm. The distance criterion is important, since no potato seedling should be obscured by bushes of another: from the level illumination depends on the amount of harvest.

The depth of the holes also depends on the density and “heaviness” of the soil: they are made shallow for dense soil - about 5 centimeters for loamy soil, for example.

After digging the holes, you need to put the potatoes and fertilizers in them, this must be done very carefully, since the planted sprouts are very fragile and can be broken. If eyes are planted as seedlings, then it is necessary to add half a liter of water to each hole for additional irrigation. After planting the crop, it is necessary to sprinkle the hole with soil from the subsequent bed.

The distance between the rows should be about 70 centimeters, depending on the total area of ​​the plot; if it is small in size, then this parameter can be reduced to 55-60 cm. However, this is fraught with great difficulties: you will have to use potato hillers twice as much to maintain sprouts are in good condition.

The distance between the rows should not be made too narrow, since soil from the rows is used during hilling. If they are narrow and small, then there is a great threat to the tubers, since their root system may be damaged.

Note that this system is only general scheme potato planting: it can be individually modified, taking into account regional climatic characteristics, potato crop variety, and soil type.

For regions with a dry climate, there is a separate method for planting potatoes, namely in a trench. It involves creating special long depressions (or trenches) in the fall; their depth should be about 30 centimeters. The bottom of this ditch must be filled with various organic fertilizers, including ash, compost, manure or hay. This cushion of fertilizer will settle and give its nutrients to the soil; this method of fertilization is good because no additional feeding will be required during the entire period of growing the crop. After some time, potatoes can be planted in the spring.

A very non-trivial way to plant potatoes is to plant the crop in specialized containers. They need to be filled with fertilizers such as straw or manure. There are 2 rows in one box, and the seedlings must be arranged in a checkerboard pattern so that their root systems do not intertwine with each other. The interval between tubers should be maintained at about 30-35 centimeters. This method, as gardeners note, is very effective, since the fruits are saturated with a large amount of useful substances: in particular, nutritional components and ultraviolet radiation. Of course, this allows you to improve the quality of the harvest and increase its quantity.

At what distance?

Knowing the characteristics of a particular potato variety, as well as how to cultivate it, not only makes it easier to care for the crop, but also allows you to get a bountiful harvest in the fall. An important criterion when planting is the distance between rows.

If you follow the planting rules, you can make the most of your garden space. A properly placed bed allows you to get a bountiful harvest without encountering any problems, such as difficult access to the bed.

Changing the distance between them can have a detrimental effect on the quantity of the crop and its quality. For example, densely planted potatoes will be deprived of nutrients due to lack of sun, moisture and space, so the tubers weaken and produce a small number of very modest-sized fruits. On the other hand, excess space in the garden can also negatively affect the quality of the vegetable: it becomes too large, which makes it difficult for neighboring tubers to germinate.

As noted above, in the shovel planting system, the optimal spacing between rows is 70 centimeters, and the distance from tuber to tuber is about 25-35 cm. Moreover, one cannot ignore the number of shoots on a tuber; if their number is small, tubers can be located somewhat closer to each other. And vice versa: the greater the number of processes there are, the longer the distance should be.

The trench method is similar in its parameters to the “shovel” method: in particular, the distance between the beds is standard and is 70 centimeters, and the tubers themselves should be 30 centimeters from each other.

If you approach potato seedlings using the container method, you need to understand that there are separate parameters. So, the boxes should be located at a fairly impressive distance from each other: up to 90 centimeters. These passages must be mulched, that is, cover the soil with mulch, in order to provide the soil with additional protection. The height of the containers must be at least 30 centimeters and the width must be one meter.

An important planting factor is the depth of the bed; it affects the size of the fruits and their saturation with nutrients. There is no optimal depth suitable for all potato varieties: the most favorable depth is calculated depending on the type of crop and soil.

Professionals advise focusing on the expected size of the fruit: smaller ones can be planted in a hole 10-12 centimeters deep. At the same time, large tubers should be planted in so-called high beds, 20 centimeters high. However, this technology is practically not used in domestic cultivation, but is actively used in Western cultivation.

In addition to calculating the gaps between beds and tubers, gardeners need to take into account such a criterion as depth. Sprouted tubers can be planted in a special separate hole, which will not interfere with the germinating fruits.

In general, we note that for different types of soil there are their own regulations indicating the optimal depth for planting seedlings. There are several main types of soil: clay, loamy and sandy loam. For the first type, a hole with a depth of up to 6-8 cm is suitable, for loam - about 10 centimeters, and for the last type of soil it is worth creating a hole exceeding 12 cm. Understanding the characteristics of the soil and the variety will allow you to preserve maximum amount useful elements in the fruit, saturating it required quantity moisture and heat.

How to make a furrow?

Planting potatoes in a furrow is the most effective way of cultivating potatoes for black soil regions, because it increases the volume of the crop and is suitable for heavy types of soil.

Furrows are created in the fall manually by digging at a depth of 20-30 cm, which corresponds to a full bayonet of a shovel. You can also use a hoe to make manual labor easier.

If the farm has a walk-behind tractor, you can use it to create furrows, but for this the device must be supplemented with special attachments. The distance between them should be about 75-80 cm. During the winter, the soil will have time to loosen due to rain, snow, and thaws, after which it will warm up well in the spring.

As for the depth of the holes, experienced farmers note that it should be the same throughout the entire planting area. Let us remember that it is determined based on the type of soil and the variety of cultivated potatoes. If it is planted in parts, it is recommended to make a small depression to avoid rotting of the seedlings.

To learn how to plant potatoes correctly, watch the following video.

From land owners There are a lot of worries in spring. It is necessary to plow the soil that has rested during the winter, apply fertilizers, plant crops, hill up, weed, harvest and plow the soil before the first frost. The appearance of the walk-behind tractor solved many problems. Labor intensive garden work Now you can execute on it. This saves time and makes planting potatoes more efficiently.

Pre-planting treatment of tubers

Pre-planting preparation of root crops requires time and effort. On a standard plot of 6-7 acres, it will take all day to plant it with a shovel, but if you connect the equipment to the work, you can do it in about three hours. For small areas, the Neva, Forza, Sadko, Don, Huter, Champion, Carver walk-behind tractors are popular.

To begin with, seed material is prepared. Preference is given to regionalized varieties that produce good yields in certain regions. Sorting is done in order to select good raw materials. Potatoes are selected to be the same size.

Small tubers produce a small harvest. Large ones must be cut into pieces, and this provokes various diseases and opens direct access to pests. Germination takes about a month. To do this, the seed material is placed in a warm (+12-15 degrees), bright room.

If dark spots appear on fresh sprouts, this indicates a disease. The affected tubers are thrown away. Before planting, they are soaked in stimulating and pickling substances. It is not recommended to place tubers in the solution for a long time.

It is better to lay them on a flat surface, spray them with preparations and let them dry. plant root vegetables are possible when the earth will warm up to +7, +8 degrees (in the landing hole).

Soil preparation

Pre-sowing work begins with laying mineral or organic fertilizers in the fall.

Stages of preparation for sowing in spring:

• Immediately before planting it is necessary plow the soil to the depth of a spade bayonet(12-15cm). To do this you will need a nozzle - milling cutter
• When planting potatoes under a walk-behind tractor Neva, The wings of the unit are removed before work. The equipment installed on the walk-behind tractor must be correctly adjusted. This will ensure smooth running of the machine and require a minimum of effort. A well-plowed field does not require harrowing.

You can watch the video online for more details about planting potatoes using the Neva walk-behind tractor:

• Hide, for saturation with oxygen and moisture. In a well-loosened soil layer, crops sprout more easily. At this stage, the walk-behind tractor will greatly facilitate the process of preparing the soil before planting the seed.
• Complete set of walk-behind tractor.

For plowing you will need wheels with lug elements, a set of rubber wheels, wheel extensions, a milling cutter, a universal hitch, hillers or a plow. If you are going to purchase additional attachments, you should first buy a hitch. The remaining elements are selected to match it.

Technology for planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor

Tips for correct landing of Pro, Viking, Crosser, Patriot, Cayman walk-behind tractors:

• The row spacing when planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor should be from 55 to 65 centimeters.
• Furrows must be done even, this will simplify caring for the root crop.
• Before disembarking you can fertilize the soil.
• Distance between tubers 25-30 cm.

Depth planting potatoes under a walk-behind tractor 10-12 cm.

When planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor, make the distance between the rows the same. Watch the track width, it should be uniform. When cutting furrows, try to make them even. If necessary, pull the ropes to navigate along them.

Let's look at the main landing methods: using hiller, hanging element – potato planters, landing under plow, landing at crest.

How to plant correctly with a hiller, at what distance and depth

To plant using a hiller, wheels with lug elements are placed on the motor cultivator. Tarpan motor cultivator works well. The furrows are being cut. Potatoes will have to be planted manually. After disembarking, replace the lugs with standard rubber wheels.

Rearranging the wheels is necessary in order not to injure the seed. The track width remains the same - 55-65 centimeters, and walk along the furrows again. The walk-behind tractor will fill the row with soil and compact the seed.

Planting with a hiller is a less expensive option. The unit should only include metal and rubber wheels and the hiller itself. The inconvenience lies in manual planting of potatoes. For large sown areas, a mounted planter for a walk-behind tractor is used.

This method is considered the least labor-intensive. The unit includes:

• Conveyor- a kind of conveyor that supplies seed material.
• Furrowmaker, for making a furrow.
• Distributor, for serving potatoes at certain intervals.
• Disc hiller, paving and filling furrows.

How to plant with a potato planter

Thanks to planting potatoes with a walk-behind planter, you can save three times more time, than when planting with a hiller. The process is completely mechanized. Potatoes are planted and hilled at the same time. The potato planter has its drawbacks.

Firstly, seed material should be selected more carefully. The tubers should be the same in size. Young shoots are not very long. Otherwise, the seed will be injured during planting. Secondly, this planting method is more expensive.

Can be used together with a walk-behind planter special device for simultaneous application fertilizers in the hole, together with seed material.

Planting with a plow

You need to install lug wheels and a plow on the walk-behind tractor. The soil is prepared by loosening using a milling cutter. The plow for planting is inserted into the ground to the depth of the spade bayonet.

It is more efficient to board with two people. The first one controls the walk-behind tractor, and the second one places the potatoes in the furrow. The work is done promptly. During the first passage of the row, it is laid seed material. And during the return journey, the sown furrow is covered with soil from the newly plowed one.

Landing on ridges

Planting potatoes in ridges with a walk-behind tractor is practiced in areas where groundwater located very close to the surface. To do this, you should use a walk-behind tractor to form ridges 15–20 cm high. The tubers are planted in the ridge. This option is only suitable for well-moistened soils.

Potato processing

Weeding

A week after planting, it is worth loosening the soil. During this time, a dense crust formed on the ground, preventing the germination of plant stems and the access of oxygen. Weeding is carried out weekly. This helps fight weeds that negatively affect root crops.

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Challenger tracked and wheeled tractors are used in work in difficult terrain conditions over large areas for cultivating land. The Challenger tractor is a reliable and smart work assistant.

For weeding work, a rotary or mesh harrow, paws and a weeder are used.

Hilling

Shoots appear in 3-4 weeks. Now after planting you need to hill up the potatoes. A walk-behind tractor will help with this. Suitable for hilling one, two or three rows

But you can get by single-row hiller, which will lift the earth and the potatoes will lie along the edge of the ridge. All that remains is to go through and collect the potatoes. Planting and processing potatoes with a walk-behind tractor is not the only area of ​​its application. Technical innovations have made the work of summer residents many times easier.

The walk-behind tractor has now become necessary tool for cultivating land. The unit is well worth the investment. You can see how walk-behind tractors can be used, in addition to planting potatoes, on the “Advice from an Old Plowman” website.

The choice of attachments depends on the owner’s requests. Using the example of planting, hilling, weeding and harvesting potatoes, you can see how makes life easier use of a walk-behind tractor for gardeners.

Kira Stoletova

Knowing the peculiarities of plant cultivation allows you to get a bountiful harvest without any problems. How to correctly determine the distance between rows of potatoes during planting? Let's look at the most effective schemes.

Why determine the distance between rows

Root crops are easy to plant, which allows them to be grown both in large farms and on small dachas. Farmers try to achieve maximum output from every square meter.

The distance between potatoes when planting is a criterion that affects the volume and quality of the finished product. If you follow the rules, you can wisely distribute the usable area of ​​the site. A well-thought-out bed provides easy access to each bush and does not complicate care.

Increasing or decreasing the category has a negative impact on yield. Excessive planting density leads to the fact that each plant does not receive enough nutrients, so the bushes grow weak and do not please with an abundance of fruits. Excess free space is also dangerous: the crop goes to the tops, and the potatoes become huge and few in number.

On the ridge

This is one of the main landing options. According to the method, the seeds are planted according to a 30 x 70 cm pattern. The area is carefully dug up, after which equal grooves are marked with twine and laid to a depth of 50 mm to 100 mm.

Pour 1 tbsp into each trench. l. ash and 0.5 shovels of humus. Tubers are placed on top, after which they are covered with soil. It is important to achieve a noticeable “ridge” on both sides, reminiscent of the letter “M”. The final height ranges from 0.25 m to 0.3 m.

The specified distance when planting potatoes makes it easier to weed the plants from weeds. Under the boletus, the crop is safe from drying out in the heat and does not rot during the rains. Main advantages of the method:

• early disembarkation;
• rapid development of healthy bushes;
• warming up by the sun;
• increase in yield by 25%;
• ease of cleaning.

Under the shovel

This is the simplest and most proven method of growing root crops. The distance between the rows of potatoes should not be less than 70 cm, and the distance between the tubers should be a little more than 25. At the same time, pay attention to the number of shoots on the specimens: the more roots, the longer the distance.

The technology requires maintaining optimal temperature. It is important that the soil has time to thaw and warm up to 8°C. Early work may result in waterlogging and freezing of crops; late plantings threaten loss of moisture and precious time for formation.

In the trenches

This method is relevant for arid regions. The distance between rows of early potatoes should be standard - from 70 cm to 80 cm. In autumn, ditches 300 mm deep are dug. Organic fertilizers are placed at the bottom:

• ash;
• manure;
• compost;
• wet hay.

After a few months, the nutrient cushion will settle, after which the tubers are planted. The seeds are placed in holes at a distance of 0.3 m from each other, crushed with loose soil on top. If you apply fertilizers in the fall, then no additional fertilizing will be required throughout the entire development season. The surface is mulched and then watered.

The method is not popular in less hot regions because there is a risk of overwatering the crop. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to dig grooves along the edges to drain moisture.

In a container

What distance is needed when planting potatoes in boxes? Between the boxes there are passages from 60 cm to 90 cm that need to be mulched. The height of the structure should reach the standard 300 mm, and the width - up to 1 m. The container is filled with fertilizers according to the following scheme:

• straw;
• manure;
• priming.

No more than 2 rows are made in one box; the tubers are planted in a checkerboard pattern. The interval from one bush to another is 30 cm. Thanks to the technique, the plants receive a sufficient amount of ultraviolet radiation and retain nutritional components, which allows increasing productivity.

Planting depth

There is another one important factor, influencing the receipt of maximum output from plants. Depending on the variety and size of the seed material, the optimal potato depth distance is calculated. Small specimens have a small stock nutrients, so professionals plant them in holes up to 12 cm.

The huge tubers have a sufficient amount of energy, which allows them to easily overcome planting heights of over 100 mm. Dutch hybrids are grown in high beds - 0.2 m. Domestic selection is not ready for such experiments.

In addition to calculating the distance of a potato bed, farmers do not always guess with depth. The germinated material is planted in holes that do not interfere with the shoots. To prevent rotting, when planting in parts, allow a minimum recess.

It is imperative to ensure the same potato planting depth throughout the entire area of ​​the site.

Different types of soil have their own requirements. For clay, a depth of up to 7 cm is suitable, while loams and heavy soils require holes up to 10. In sandy loam soils, it is recommended to place more than 11 cm in a hole. Knowledge of the features allows you to retain moisture and heat, and also ensures natural aeration of the roots.

Distance between tubers

Having determined how much distance is needed between potato beds, it is easy to figure out the spacing of root crops. According to technology, per 1 sq. m plant about 6 pieces.

If the row spacing is 70 cm, the distance between the holes will be 25 or 30 cm. Professionals call this indicator the width of the spade bayonet. This scheme offers dense planting of bushes, which is not suitable for all farmers. There may be a decrease in yield, and it will not be very comfortable to care for the bushes.

If the tubers are located 60 cm apart from each other, it is important to correctly calculate the usable area. The numbers obtained will not always allow you to get the maximum return. At a considerable distance (up to 1 m), the tops develop well, but form few tubers.

It depends on the varieties what distance to choose between potato rows and root crops. For early varieties, a distance of up to 30 cm is relevant. Later varieties are always planted at a large interval - from 35 to 45 cm.

If the crop is not properly cared for, the correct distance when planting potatoes will not save you from crop loss.

Crop rotation in the garden makes it possible to prevent the weakening of root crops. Potato beds are planted where friendly plants grew last season. Recommended crops include:

• cucumbers;
• beets;
• carrot;
• salad;
• cabbage

When choosing the optimal distance between rows of potatoes, you need to remember that the line with furrows is directed from north to south. Thanks to this trick, the sun will illuminate the bushes throughout the day. If you change the direction, part of the culture will languish from the heat, and part will starve from the lack of sun.

An important period in the development of crops is flowering. At this time, the plants are provided with thorough watering. Lack of moisture affects the volume of final products. Stagnation of liquid near the furrows and holes is the cause of rotting.

A rich harvest is the merit of an attentive farmer. Knowing the distance between rows when planting potatoes, it is easy to avoid common mistakes in cultivation.

All gardeners and summer residents are waiting for spring to begin planting the second bread - potatoes - on their plot of land. This is the most popular vegetable that will feed us all winter.

I want to collect good harvest so that you can calmly meet the winter without worrying about what to serve dining table, what to feed the family and it is desirable that it be grown with my own hands on your own land, and not from the market. But here you need to know how to properly grow this simple vegetable. After all, many people think what’s so complicated about it?

That planting potatoes is a mere trifle. I marked out the beds, made holes, threw in the potatoes, buried them, watered them, and wait for them to sprout, and then dug them up and that’s it. But it’s not so easy to get a good potato harvest, with little labor, and even from a small plot of land.

Time to plant potatoes.

In the spring, after the earth has dried and warmed up, when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm is +8°C, you can begin planting. You can, as a guide, determine the planting date by looking at the birch leaves. If the leaf is already the size of a penny, it’s time to plant potatoes.

If you want to get an early harvest, the tubers must first be sprouted by this time. But here you need to pay attention to the peculiarities of the local climate. It is impossible to give one template for all regions, since the cold may return, and night frosts will damage the seedlings and cause damage to the harvest.

How to plant potatoes.

When planting, you can use a thread to delimit the locations of future potato bushes. Depending on how far the groundwater is, the planting method is chosen. When the groundwater is far from the surface, then it is necessary to plant in holes:

1. The rows should be 60 - 80 cm apart; There should be a distance of 30 cm between the tubers; Plant to a depth of 6 - 10 cm; After planting, level the soil with a rake to avoid moisture evaporation.

If groundwater is close, it is better to plant potatoes in ridges about 15 cm high. This planting method allows the soil to warm up and ventilate much faster. The ridges are located at a distance of approximately 60–70 cm from each other.

Place the tubers at a depth of 6 - 8 cm. If the groundwater level on the site is very close to the surface and the soils are wet, then for planting it is necessary to make wide beds up to 30 cm high. Plant potato tubers on the bed in two rows with a distance between rows of 70 centimeters and between tubers from 25 to 40 cm (depending on the size of the tubers). The distance from the edge of the bed to the row should be at least 20 cm. This article discussed the question of how to plant potatoes and when they can be planted. After all, if you plant potatoes incorrectly, you can get a bad harvest, or you can even be left without potatoes. A video on planting potatoes has been compiled

Planting potatoes. Distance between tubers and between rows?

alex2107 11 months ago

Planting potatoes? Distance between tubers (bushes) and between rows?

11 months ago

We are following at the dacha next rule: the rows are located at a distance of seventy to eighty centimeters (usually seventy) from each other, the distance between the tubers in the row when planted under the plow is approximately forty to forty-five centimeters. When planting, holes are dug under a shovel the width of the shovel, the distance between the holes is close (the distance between the tubers is approximately the same: 40-45 cm).

The distance between rows of potatoes and individual tubers depends on the method of planting this beloved crop. For example, with such an unconventional planting method as a “hill”, the distance between the tubers is only 20-25 centimeters.

When planting using the “barrel” method, the distance between tubers is at least half a meter, and between rows - up to one meter. The photo shows a method of growing potatoes in straw. The distance between the tubers is 30-50 centimeters, and between the rows - up to seventy centimeters. When planting using the strip method, a distance of 110 centimeters is left between the strips, and at least thirty centimeters between two rows in the strip. We more often use the traditional method of growing potatoes, in which the distance between tubers is up to seventy centimeters, and between the rows - at least a meter, so that there is the possibility of good hilling of the bushes. And one more thing: early potatoes are planted more often than mid-season and late varieties.

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What methods of planting potatoes are used in agriculture?

Planting potatoes using the correct method will give excellent result.Potato is a crop that will never become unnecessary or obsolete. Growing potatoes is an interesting and simple task at first glance.

There are more than 100 modern methods of growing potatoes, one can be seen in the video in this article. Summer residents will say that the most easy landing potatoes with proper care gives results. Why then is the yield different every year?

What prevents you from getting excellent results every year? Shouldn't you try new methods of growing potatoes? We will talk about what methods modern farmers propose to use in this article.

What are the most popular methods of planting tubers?

The usual method of planting potatoes is well-known and time-tested. Planting is carried out together, when one digs holes, and the second places the sprouted tubers there. To increase productivity, urea, ash and manure are placed in the hole.

But no matter how hard the gardener tries, potatoes do not always grow large. A number of factors affect the result, which are considered a disadvantage of the conservative method:

1. When hilling, part of the root system, which was actively developing, is damaged. Thickening, which prevents the sun from penetrating all plants, and allows diseases to spread quickly.

Majority modern methods cultivation is based on maintaining the distance between plantings and preserving moisture at the roots. Let's take a closer look at some of them.

The Mittlider method is based on a large distance between the tubers. The American vegetable grower Mittlider came up with and developed his own growing method. It is actively used in small farms abroad and in Russia and has already found its fans. The Mittlider method is based on the following: the beds are made 0.5 m wide, with passages of 0.70–1 m between them. Rollers are formed along the entire perimeter of the beds from land, they reduce water consumption and reduce the number of weeds.

If the landscape is sloping, then the ridges are formed in wooden boxes. Potatoes must be watered frequently and fed three times over the entire period. There is no need to hill up or loosen the plantings. Using this technology, you can get high yields even with small area. Thus, the maximum weight of tubers collected from one hundred square meters was recorded as 550 kg. More details on how tubers are planted can be seen in the video:

The Gülich method involves dividing the land for planting into 1x1 m squares. Rollers are made with humus in a circle in each square, and soil is poured into the middle. Potatoes are placed in the center of each cell, upside down.

When the shoots stretch into a ring, use a hoe to rake up the soil to the very middle of the shoots. As a result, they diverge and grow like rays in different directions. When the first greenery appears on the seedlings, the soil is added again, this is done several times during the growth period. If you water the bushes frequently, the yield from each can reach up to 17 kg per tuber.

Planting potatoes using the Dutch method has been used in Russia for more than 20 years. The Dutch method of planting potatoes is characterized by a large distance between tubers and aeration. Much attention is paid to the choice of material for planting, fertilizers and treatment of plants with herbicides. When planting, tubers are placed in increments of 30 cm, the distance between rows is 70–80 cm.

They hill up without touching the roots, simply raking up soil from the rows. Watering is carried out three times over the entire period. In this way you can get up to 2 kg of potatoes, and large ones, from each bush.

Tula farmers have developed their own method of growing potatoes. By following the rules, you can grow a crop of 500–1000 kg on 1 acre. The rules included in the method are:

1. In autumn, the earth is rolled over with humus added. There is no need to dig deeply, just use a spade. In the spring, the area is dug up a second time to 15 cm. The area is divided into strips that alternate 20 and 80 cm. The strips should be located strictly from south to north. Planting material laid out along the border of the strips with a distance of 30 cm. The potatoes are first germinated. It is necessary to lay out carefully without damaging the shoots. From a row of 80 cm, use a hoe to rake the soil onto the tubers, so that they are covered by 2 cm. Hilling must be done 3 times and the first is done high up on young shoots. As soon as the weather settles in the summer, apply The first fertilizers are nitroammophosphate in the spaces between the rows, after 10 days the procedure is repeated again after the same interval. As soon as the tops grow, they are piled on top of each other from two neighboring fields. The hilling is done jointly, so that one mound is formed. It is important not to form hollows between the old rows. 10–15 days before harvesting, the tops are mowed to a height of 14 cm.

Methods to reduce labor costs

For owners of small plots, it is important not only to get a good harvest from a smaller area, but also to reduce work to a minimum. There are growing methods that can satisfy these desires. They are somewhat unconventional, but you can try them.

This is how potatoes are grown in straw, with moss and in boxes or bags. You won’t have to hill these up and watering will be significantly reduced.

You can plant potatoes in barrels or bags on your own plot. big size.The technique is used on land with an area of ​​less than 3 acres. Use any old barrels: iron, plastic. The main thing is not to take engine oil or chemicals. The bottom is removed and small holes are sawed in the walls.

It will go through them excess moisture and supply oxygen. The soil is poured in layers: 10 cm of compost mixed with soil, tubers in a checkerboard pattern, a 10 cm layer of compost with soil. After the first shoots appear, the procedure is repeated until the barrel is filled to 1 m. Watering is carried out frequently, fed with complex compounds 2 -a time. If the care is appropriate, then you can get a bag of potatoes from the barrel.

The method of growing potatoes in bags is not much different from a barrel. Take natural linen bags and fill them with soil and humus. Planting material is placed on top in a circle and again covered with soil and humus. Then proceed in exactly the same way as with planting in barrels.

After creating layers to a height of 1 m, the bag is placed in the open sunny place, but not in the sun. Watering is frequent, fertilizing is carried out 2-3 times per season.

With good care, a bag of potatoes yields 4 full buckets of harvest. Which method is best to grow potatoes on your plot depends on the capabilities and intended result. For large farmers, Canadian and American techniques are more suitable; for small farmers, you can experiment and plant potatoes in bags or barrels. These methods are less labor-intensive and require little maintenance.

Related posts:

Potatoes, proper planting of tubers, care after planting

When to plant potatoes correctly

Tubers are planted when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm will reach 7-8 degrees. Usually in the Moscow region this happens in early May. Delay in planting potatoes entails a 30% loss of yield.

Well sprouted tubers To obtain early potatoes, you can plant them a little earlier - at a soil temperature of 5-6 degrees. Experience shows that such early boarding planting in insufficiently warmed soil produces a greater yield than planting it late in warm soil.

Potatoes are being planted on a flat surface, and on waterlogged and heavy soils - in ridges. With this planting, the soil warms up better and more air flows to the tubers.

Distance between rows of potatoes when planting

Before boarding In order to evenly place the plants on the area, the area should be marked. To do this, use a marker to make shallow grooves along which the planting is carried out. For the first pass of the marker, pull the cord along which its outermost tooth is guided.

You can plant tubers directly under the cord, but this is less convenient and takes more time. To increase productivity after planting, the soil can be mulch(sprinkle with a 2-3 cm layer of peat).

Optimal distance between rows of potatoes for early ripening varieties - 70-75 cm, for late ripening varieties - 80-90 cm. Planting density depends on the size of potato tubers. Small ones are planted after 18-20 cm, medium and large ones after 26-28 cm.

Tubers are planted deep in heavy soils 6-8 cm, on light ones - 8-10 cm, counting the distance from the soil surface to the tuber. With such planting, approximately 350 large tubers, 450 medium ones, 500 and smaller ones will be required per hundred square meters.

Caring for potatoes after planting

Potato care basically comes down to keeping the soil loose and killing weeds.

Harrowing potatoes. The first harrowing is carried out 4-5 days after planting. Then two or three more before germination and one or two after the plants appear on the surface. Typically, 16-28 days pass from planting to germination.

Loosening and hilling potatoes. After the rows are well defined and the plants have sprouted so much that it is impossible to harrow, they begin to loosen the rows. The first time the soil is loosened deeply - by 12-14 cm, and the second and third time - by 6-8 cm.

When the plants reach a height of 12-15 cm, the first hilling is carried out, with a ridge height of 15-20 cm. The potatoes are hilled a second time before closing the tops. Feeding potatoes after planting.

Before loosening the rows and hilling, it is advisable to feed the plants. This is especially important for mid-season and late potato varieties. It is enough to carry out two feedings.

First time you can add two handfuls of humus under each bush with two teaspoons of ammonium nitrate added to it, or you can add two handfuls of ash mixed with the same amount of earth, or you can add 15 g chicken manure. For the second feeding dilute 2 tbsp in 10 liters of water. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska.

The plants are watered at the roots with this solution, and then watered with clean water. Keep in mind that fertilizing is given only during the initial development of plants. After flowering, they lead to late ripening of tubers and the accumulation of nitrates in them.

In case of lack of moisture Potatoes are watered in furrows or by sprinkling. Drought 2-3 weeks after emergence, during the appearance of buds and in early August, when the tubers are growing, can significantly reduce the yield.

After watering, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form. Advice. To avoid damaging the potatoes, keep in mind that in hot and dry weather you should not carry out deep loosening around the bushes or hill up the plants.

This leads to dehydration and overheating of the soil, stops the growth of tubers and contributes to the emergence of diseases. During drought, shallow loosening of row spacing is sufficient.

Planting potatoes

TO planting potatoes it is necessary to start when the soil at a depth of 10-12 cm warms up to 6-8 degrees. There is no need to be late with planting, as this can lead to a decrease in yield, but very early planting of potatoes in cold and unheated soil is also undesirable, since potato tubers, especially in clayey, moist soil, can partially rot.

The opening of birch leaves and the flowering of bird cherry serve as a sign that the time has come to begin planting potatoes. First, early varieties should be planted, then mid-season varieties and finally late varieties. In the regions of the far south, potatoes are planted in late March - early April; in the southern but more northern regions (Kiev, Poltava, Kharkov and other regions) - in mid-April; in the central regions (Moscow, Tula, Ryazan and others) - in the first half of May; in the northern regions - in the second half of May.

Potato planting depth depends on the soil, humidity, quality of planting material. In the northern and central regions, on light soils, potatoes are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm, on heavy soils 8-10 cm, on peaty soils 6-7 cm.

In the southern and southeastern regions, potatoes are planted to a depth of 14-16 cm. The tops are planted 2-3 cm shallower than whole tubers.

Potato planting density depends on a number of conditions: on well-fertilized or fertile soils Potato tubers are planted more densely, less often on low-fertilized, poor soils; Early varieties should be planted more densely than late ones, large tubers should be planted less often, and smaller ones and tops - more often. Per 100 square meters there should be 450-500 bushes when planting whole tubers, about 600-650 bushes when planting with tops, about 700-750 potato bushes when planting with seedlings or sprouts. The distance between rows of potatoes should be set to 50-60 cm, and in a row between individual bushes when planting whole tubers - 30-35 cm, tops - 25 cm, sprouts - 20 cm. Medium-sized tubers of 20-25 kg are planted per 100 square meters, large ones - 30-35 kg, tops - 10-15 kg.Depending on ways to plant potatoes, the surface of the area planted with potatoes can be flat or ridged.

In the southern and south-eastern regions in conditions of insufficient moisture, and in the central regions on light soils and in dry years, potatoes are planted in a “smooth” way, which better retains moisture in the soil. In the central and northern regions, especially on heavy and wet soils, potatoes are planted in a “ridge” way, in which the soil warms up better and air penetrates into it more easily. rows are marked on the site, which can be made with a hand marker or taut cord.

When marking, the straightness of the rows must be observed. Smooth landing is made under a shovel or under a plow. smooth potato planting Manually, under a shovel, along a line marked with a marker or along a cord, dig holes into which the tubers are placed and covered with a loose layer of soil (at the same time, fertilizer can be added to the hole).

When planting under the plow, the tuber is placed on the slope of the furrow, which is covered with earth when the plow passes back. Ridge planting of potatoes produced in a different way: the tubers are laid out on the surface of the treated soil (along a line marked with a cord or marker) and covered with soil with a shovel or using a hiller.

The soil for filling the tubers is taken between the rows. When nest planting of potatoes Two tubers or two halves are planted in a hole: each half or each tuber in the nest is placed at a distance of 8-10 cm from one another. When planting using the nesting method, the number of stems in the bush increases.

When planted in halves, more eyes will sprout (the cut stimulates the germination of eyes). Nest planting helps increase yield.

About planting potatoes and row spacing.

To each potato plant(not just potatoes) it is necessary to create conditions for the optimal healthy development of both stems and root systems, and this implies sufficient soil fertility and some pattern of placement of tubers when planting. Planting scheme potatoes in our area, they plant under a shovel, the distance between bushes and rows is 50-60 centimeters, that when hilling, sometimes you have to “expose” neighboring bushes by raking up piles of soil, which is very inconvenient for me.

A lot of seed potatoes this method requires. This does not fit into my ideas about sufficient territory for each plant, it turns out something like potato communal apartment where potato bushes are pushed by both roots and leaves, especially when the tops rise.

It turns out a kind of suppression and weakening of every bush and everything potato field generally. (Monoculture!) It is very inconvenient to work on such dense plantings, and it is very inconvenient for potatoes to grow. Potatoes are almost always planted in rows; only the width of the rows and the distance between the tubers change. So let’s look at the planting schemes potatoes for the unit of measurement of all gardens and vegetable gardens - weave.

A hundred square meters is a banal ten by ten meters, obtained by multiplying ten meters of length by ten meters of width. This is how we get one hundred square meters - our SOTKA. This is how the potatoes sit “under the shovel”; processing the approximate distance is not very convenient. There is such an opinion when calculating the yield potatoes, in which you need to multiply the yield from one bush by 500 (on average) and the result should be the total yield per hundred square meters of your garden.

Although if we multiply 14 rows (with a row spacing of 70 cm) by 33 bushes (30 centimeters between tubers), we get 462 bushes per hundred square meters. Next, we multiply the yield of one bush, for example 1.5 kilograms by 462 number of bushes - we get 693 kilograms of potatoes per hundred square meters, this is with the classic planting scheme of 70 by 30 centimeters.

There are other planting methods, but in principle it is still planting in rows or beds. You need to start with the yield, or more precisely, with the soil fertility of the area where the potatoes will grow, and soil fertility is not a constant value.

It happens that they dig up less than they planted :) Knowing what harvest our land is capable of producing, we can draw up a potato planting scheme more accurately, with a more predictable result. I mean the “marketability” of our future tubers.

It’s simpler here, if you like larger tubers, then plant less often (the potato bush receives more nutrition), but if you prefer smaller ones, then plant more often (the potato bush receives less nutrition). Of course, it doesn’t change from year to year, and it’s impossible to predict what kind of summer it will be, but it’s already somewhat closer when you start from the possibility of the earth.

You know what you will get, of course, if you don’t abandon your potato.Potato planting scheme with wide aisles for small areas; in rows, potatoes can be placed as it is more convenient for someone, and who needs what size tubers. My planting scheme is as follows, “beds” a meter wide with meter-long row spacings, this basic principle, And seed potatoes much less is required. Such wide row spacing allows increasing lateral illumination of the stems; the greatest effect is achieved when planting is placed from north to south.

I regulate the size of tubers by the frequency of planting tubers in rows. Here, at least in one row, or in a checkerboard pattern, I leave it to the will of the “spring aggravation”.

It is quite convenient to process potatoes planted in this way, there is no crowding, and all the bushes get plenty of food. Of course, like this method on large areas I don’t know what to use, those who plant 20 or 30 acres should use the planting scheme that gives better results and is more convenient for their fields. Vernalized potatoes before planting.

Planting potatoes (potatoes) in double rows. Device (tool) for planting.

We usually use these potatoes before planting. It germinates quickly and grows beautifully! As a result, if you have fertilized the soil on your plot in the fall, have the right potato seed tubers and have a desire to grow good potato harvest, and you don’t thicken your potato field, then I think you’ll succeed.

I wish everyone a great potato harvest! Have you read it? Add to bookmarks! Liked?

Summer is approaching, which means it's time to plant potatoes. This cultivated plant is considered one of the most common in gardens and plots of our country. Very important The distance between the rows of potatoes plays a role in the future harvest. At the same time, do not forget that the distance between the potatoes should also be taken into account. These parameters play an important role in the formation of tubers. Therefore, this article will be devoted to these issues.

Row spacing

To get a good potato harvest, when planting, you should take into account the distance between rows, as well as the distance between tubers. It is necessary to start planting potatoes only when the soil temperature reaches 8 degrees at a depth of 10 cm. Often these conditions arise in May (with a dry and warm spring, planting can be done already at the beginning of this month).

You should know that well-sprouted tubers can be planted a little earlier - at a temperature of 5 or 6 degrees in the soil. Some gardeners claim that such planting, on the contrary, helps to obtain more high level harvest.

Typically, potatoes are planted on a flat surface. But in heavy or waterlogged soils - on ridges (beds). This allows the soil to warm up better and also improves its aeration.

You need to start planting by determining the distance between the rows. To do this, you should do the following:

1. mark the entire area;
2. The markings are made using a marker (in this case this means a shovel, stick, etc.). They draw a shallow furrow. Planting is carried out further along these furrows;
3. A string is pulled along the first furrow between the wedges, which will act as a guide;
4. the tuber can be planted directly under a stretched cord. But this is a very labor-intensive process that will take a lot of time;
5. After planting potatoes in a row, the soil should be mulched to increase yield. Mulching is carried out with peat, which is poured in a layer of two to three centimeters.

If the ridge planting option is used (beds are formed), then as many as two rows are placed in one bed. In such a situation, the rows are placed at a distance of 19-26 cm. Each subsequent two rows are separated by a groove having the width of one shovel. The walls of this groove should be sloping.

The best distance between two adjacent rows for potatoes is determined by its variety:

• early ripening varieties should be grown at a distance of 60-75 cm;
• Late-ripening varieties should be planted in rows, the distance between which should be no more than 90 cm (minimum 70 cm).

Potatoes are usually planted in a row according to a 30x80 cm pattern. Here, adjustments should be made for the plant variety. Early potatoes produce less dense tops, so they can be planted more densely, with smaller distances between rows. Some gardeners claim that simultaneous planting of early and late varieties will give a better harvest.

The rows should be oriented from north to south. This will give the bushes more sunlight. Although in this situation it is possible to be guided by the capabilities of your plot or garden and determine the distance by eye.

Distance between tubers

If we figured out the distance between the rows in the previous paragraph, then the question of the optimal distance between the tubers remains open.

Most often in the literature one can find the statement that for one square meter About 6 bushes should be planted. If you take exactly this number of plants, then in the case of a row spacing of about 70 cm, it is necessary to maintain a distance between bushes of 26 cm. In practice, in order not to run around with a ruler, this distance practically corresponds to a segment one and a half times the width of an ordinary shovel. You should be guided by the diameter of the hole dug with such a shovel (approximately 25-27 cm).

But when using this planting scheme, the potatoes will grow quite densely. This option is not very profitable in terms of plantation yield. In practice, this scheme is used quite rarely.

More often you can find plantings where the gaps between the bushes will be twice as large. You can also find the following method for calculating the correct distance between bushes. Here the total weight of the potatoes must be divided by the entire area where you plan to plant them. In this case, the resulting figures will be a real reflection of the yield. You can even find data when the distance between the holes is one meter (for a row proximity of 70 cm). But this method gives the lowest yield.

It should be noted that, as in the situation with the distance between rows, it is necessary to take into account the plant variety:

1. early varieties are best planted at a distance between bushes of 25 to 30 cm;
2. Late varieties need to be planted at a greater distance - from 30 to 35 cm.

These figures are indicated for tubers that have a standard size for planting (about the size of a chicken egg). When using smaller tubers, the above distances must be reduced. The optimal distance would be about 18-20 cm. For very large tubers, the distance can increase significantly and even be 45 cm.

The distance that is maintained for the rows is not particularly important when choosing the distance between the bushes. This parameter is directly dependent on the characteristics of the soil composition. If the soil is fertile and contains a lot of nutrients, then planting should be done more densely, since the soil’s capabilities will allow the bushes to form normally and produce a harvest of excellent taste and volume. If soil fertility is low, gardeners recommend planting tubers at a greater distance from each other so that in the future the bushes have enough opportunity to produce a crop.

Common potato planting scheme

Tubers are planted in holes. The correct depth for them is from 7 to 10 cm. At this depth, the potatoes will warm up best and germinate quickly. Sprouted stems should be covered with soil on top. This procedure will need to be repeated in a week. This will allow the formation of strong stems, which will have a positive effect on yield. If the planting dates were later, then the depth of the hole increases by 3 cm (especially this rule applies to dry periods).

Also, the depth of the hole depends on the type of soil. For heavy soil, this parameter should be about 8 cm. In light soils, the depth of the hole should be about 10 cm. And for clay soils, the hole is made with a depth of 5 cm.

When choosing the depth, you should not strictly focus on the above figures, since you need to make an assessment of the size of the tubers themselves. Smaller potatoes need to be planted at a shallow depth, but for larger ones the depth should be greater. Deviation from the established figures is allowed no more than 3 cm in any direction.

It is recommended to plant tubers in holes with sprouts down. This must be done in order to form better spreading, which will contribute to greater ventilation and illumination of the resulting bush. After this procedure has been completed and all the rules have been followed, use a rake to cover the top of the potatoes with soil.

As you can see, such a seemingly ordinary process as planting potatoes can present a certain degree of complexity. Incorrectly planted tubers can significantly reduce the yield of an entire plantation. Therefore, before starting the process itself, you should first familiarize yourself with the nuances that relate to this issue.

Video “How to plant potatoes correctly”

In the video, the agronomist explains how to plant potatoes correctly: when to plant, what planting pattern to choose depending on the type of soil; are being considered different schemes landings.

plodovie.ru

Walk-behind tractor or shovel - which is the best way to plant potatoes?

Everyone knows how to plant potatoes, at least theoretically. It would seem that this process could be difficult - dig a hole, throw in a potato and cover it with soil, and then it will sprout on its own. No watering or special care When growing potatoes, it is not required, just weeding and hilling once. But even such an obvious process has its own wisdom, without which you risk digging up much fewer potatoes than you expected.

Preliminary work: germination of tubers and soil preparation

How to plant potatoes to achieve a great harvest? Not every experienced gardener can give an accurate answer to this question, since a good result when growing potatoes with your own hands depends on many factors: planting time, row spacing, hole depth, planting material itself, climatic conditions, etc. But about which method is more convenient and faster to plant potatoes, disputes between gardeners do not subside.

Someone is planting potatoes traditional way manually, others prefer to use a walk-behind tractor or a special planter. The video attached to the article shows very clearly how potatoes are planted using a conventional walk-behind tractor. Each method has its supporters and opponents; which option is more effective and easier is up to you to decide.

Planting of potatoes begins, as a rule, when the first leaves the size of a coin appear on the birch trees, and the soil warms up to 6-8 degrees to a depth of 10 cm. Pre-sprouted and heated potato tubers can be planted in soil whose temperature is 4-5 degrees.

The soil should be slightly moist, crumble well and not stick to the shovel. Loosen the soil with a rake by 6-7 cm so that the surface is smooth and the lumps are small. Instead of digging and cultivating, it is better to prefer bayoneting with a pitchfork, lifting layers of soil and leaving them in the same place. This method requires less effort than digging and does not dry out the soil. If you plan to plant potatoes on a large area, you can use a walk-behind tractor and mill the soil to a depth of 10 cm.

Potato tubers should be sprouted for two weeks before planting. After removing the thin white sprouts, place the potato tubers in a single layer on the floor so that light falls on them. At the end of germination (pre-planting vernalization), thick green sprouts, not necessarily large, should appear on the potatoes. Tubers planted with sprouts develop and ripen two to three weeks earlier than non-sprouted tubers. When preparing planting material, make sure that there is not a single spot on it. To increase productivity, you can dust the tubers cut lengthwise with wood ash.

Video about methods of planting potatoes

Manual method of planting potatoes

To obtain straight rows, it is recommended to first mark the furrows, precisely maintaining the distance between them, or plant along a cord. It is best to leave row spacing 70 cm wide, and from hole to hole should be approximately 26-30 cm (20 cm is enough for seed potatoes). If you make smaller row spacing, hilling and weeding will be inconvenient.

Traditional technology for planting potatoes manually is quite simple: one person digs a hole 8-10 cm deep with a shovel, the second follows him, lowering a tuber into the hole with its sprout up and adding a handful of compost, humus or fertilizers (saltpeter, urea). When digging the next hole, the previous one is covered with earth. At the end of planting, the entire surface should be leveled with a rake, then the moisture from the soil will evaporate less.

There is a special technique for planting potatoes in areas where groundwater comes close to the surface. To do this, ridges up to 15 cm in height are formed on the soil surface, with an intermediate distance of about half a meter. Potato tubers are planted in these ridges. If the soil is insufficiently moistened, this method is contraindicated.

Using a walk-behind tractor or planter when planting potatoes

Many gardeners, in order not to bother their backs with a shovel, prefer to mechanize the process as much as possible, using a walk-behind tractor or a special planter. A planter is especially useful for potatoes if you grow potatoes using the Mittlider method: the holes are carefully cut at the same distance without disturbing the narrow beds, and the tubers are leveled on top with soil using a rake.

Planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor done like this:

• first, even planting furrows are cut, and the soil is deeply loosened;
• sprouted potato tubers are placed with their sprouts up in the furrows every 30-45 cm (if the planting material is small, then make the distance smaller);
• The furrows are closed manually with a rake or motor cultivator.

When forming furrows, try to leave a distance of 50-60 cm between them, so that during subsequent potato processing (weeding, loosening, hilling and harvesting), the wheels can pass freely without damaging the buried tubers.

Video about planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor

Proponents of mechanical planting argue that the use of a walk-behind tractor improves the harvest, since the cultivator loosens the soil better than a regular shovel. Which planting will be more effective and give the best results, you will only find out from personal experience.

orchardo.ru

Learning to grow potatoes

Spring time, as usual, takes many by surprise.

Someone understands that they need to start getting in shape before summer season, but time is running out, and someone forgets that he has a garden that needs to be looked after.

Moreover, different vegetable and fruit crops have their own characteristics of cultivation, watering and harvesting.

In order to harvest a high-quality harvest every summer and autumn, you need to take care of it in advance by caring for the plants.

Looking at this topic, today we will talk about potatoes and how to grow potatoes from seeds.

We will answer questions about how to grow potatoes from seeds and how to plant potatoes with seeds

All gardeners know that potatoes usually reproduce vegetative way. For this, tubers are used, presented in the villa of a thickened stem.

Since these same tubers contain a sufficient amount of organic matter, it is more suitable for the formation of new plants than potato seeds.

However, planting potatoes with seeds is done no less often; many gardeners find this method more convenient.

At the same time, you must be clearly aware that growing potatoes with seeds will not lead to a large harvest.

From the seeds you will get small tubers, which will later need to be stored from potatoes grown in the traditional way.

Remember also that potato seeds, the price of which is very reasonable today, germinate more slowly than tubers.

In order to speed up the process of their germination, many gardeners even use various additional measures, for example, heating or treating with different solutions.

Then, perhaps, the process of growing potatoes with seeds will be more effective.

We grow potatoes with seeds: proper planting of potato seeds and their price

If you decide to plant potatoes with seeds, it is better to start doing this in the spring. To do this, the seeds you have selected need to be soaked in water so that they can germinate. In two to three weeks, the first sprouts of your seeds will appear. Then you can begin to gradually plant the sprouted seeds. Just do this very carefully, without damaging the sprouts, because sometimes they do not take root precisely because of careless treatment of them.

Having begun to prepare seeds for planting in the spring, by mid-summer they can turn into lush and strong bushes. Sometimes potato bushes grown from seeds, paradoxically, look much stronger and healthier than their tuberous counterparts. After all, when planting potato seeds, like other crops, the most important thing is the right approach and attentive attitude. And you don’t need to worry about where to buy potato seeds. Nowadays there are a lot of flower and garden shops in any city. The main thing is to decide on the variety.

How and where to buy potato seeds and is it possible to receive potato seeds by mail?

Potatoes planted from seeds in spring can be safely harvested in September. If you did everything correctly, then it is likely that individual tubers will not even fit in your palm, and there will be no small potatoes at all. Although, if you come across any, leave them for seeds.

If you don’t know exactly how to grow potatoes from seeds, read the relevant literature or search for information on the Internet. It will be quite useful for a novice gardener to reread once or twice the tips on how to plant potato seeds, the price of which can also be found on the Internet.

If you still haven’t decided where to buy potato seeds, there is a decent Alternative option– receiving potato seeds by mail. To do this, you need to go to the appropriate gardening online store, place an order for the variety you need and wait until the potato seeds are delivered to you by mail. Today it is fast and convenient, and the price is not too different from regular stores.

In any case, know that planting potato seeds, like any other vegetable or fruit crop, requires attention, responsibility and accuracy. If you dream of getting a good harvest, put some effort into it, and then nature will certainly thank you!

udec.ru

Proper planting of potatoes

If the stem-forming ability of tubers is increased by any means, then they are planted sparsely. Planting density also depends on soil fertility. Large tubers are planted with a row spacing of 80-90 cm, smaller ones - 60-70 cm, in a row every 25-30 cm. On fertile soils, planting should be denser than on poorly cultivated soils without applying a sufficient amount of fertilizer.

Preparing the site for planting

When planting small tubers, the background of organic and mineral nutrition should be 15-20% higher. Before planting potatoes, it is necessary to pre-designate the rows where the tubers should be planted. Marking is usually done with a special marker that resembles a rake with wooden teeth. The first pass of the marker is made along a stretched cord from the edge of the area. The outermost tooth of the marker is led along the cord. During the reverse stroke, the outermost tooth follows the track marked by the opposite tooth. Planting can also be done under the cord, but this is less convenient and takes more time. To comply correct distance Pre-measured sticks are used in the row.

Prevention from diseases and pests

To protect against fungal diseases, before planting, you can water the holes with a solution of copper sulfate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and to protect against mole crickets, add 1 teaspoon of crushed eggshells mixed with a small amount of vegetable oil.

After this, 0.5 kg of compost or humus or a spoonful of ground bird droppings, as well as 1-2 spoons of wood ash, are added to each hole. Fertilizers applied to the holes are mixed with soil and covered with a 2-3 cm layer of soil, and then the tubers are planted at the required depth, always with the tips and sprouts facing up. After planting the potatoes, the area is leveled with a rake.

Planting depth. Potatoes should be planted as shallow as possible, planting the tubers at the same depth. The maximum soil layer above them is 8 cm. With such a shallow planting depth, the tubers heat up better and germinate quickly. In Holland, a trendsetter in potato growing, potatoes are planted so that the top of the tuber is at soil level. A ridge is formed above it. Shallower planting may result in the new crop's tubers greening up again.

Potato grower V.R. Gorelov from the Kemerovo region suggests not burying seed tubers in the soil, but laying them out on a slightly loosened surface and covering them with mounds or rolls of mulch 10-12 cm high. The mulch can be a mixture of humus and straw, peat, compost or a mixture of rotted sawdust (60%) and sand (40%), filled with a full dose mineral fertilizers with microelements. This mixture is especially effective on heavy, clay soils. When the plants reach a height of 20-25 cm, you need to add additional mulch to prevent the tubers from turning green.

This mulch allows roots to develop freely. It retains moisture and air, contains nutritional elements, regulates temperature in hot and cold weather, provides drainage around the roots, suppresses weeds. Collected under mulch near the soil surface earthworms, which loosen and cultivate the soil, convert organic matter into precious humus. If you add green pine needles to the mulch, the plants will suffer less from the Colorado potato beetle, wireworm and other pests, as well as from some diseases.

V. R. Gorelov obtained twice the yield with this method of growing potatoes. Harvesting does not require much effort, since the soil does not hold the tubers. Almost all of them rise together with the tops almost clean.

Mulch can be used for several years. When landing on next year The overwintered roller of organic matter is pulled apart and seed tubers are placed on the soil. If there is not enough mulch, then small holes are made in the soil and the tubers are covered not in a continuous roller, but in separate mounds. In this case, the distance between the tubers is increased to 40 cm, because the tops then develop more powerful.

This method requires the introduction of a large amount of organic matter (up to 800 kg per hundred square meters), but a high and healthy potato yield pays for all costs.

sad-dacha-ogorod.com

Traditional and unusual ways of planting potatoes

The beginning of May in our area is the traditional time for planting potatoes. So it’s time to think about how to plant it this time, because recently new, original methods have been added to the usual ones - there is plenty to choose from.

Traditional methods of planting potatoes

There are three common methods: smooth planting, ridge planting and trench planting. Moreover, this is precisely the case when an arbitrary choice does not give the best results, because each of the options is intended for very specific conditions and in others simply may not justify itself. Only the basic requirements remain common: place plantings in the direction from south to north so that the plants are illuminated evenly and receive a sufficient amount of light; keep distances. In addition, do not forget about fertilizing (I usually use ash and compost); It is useful to add onion peels to the holes or trenches, which protect the plantings from the Colorado potato beetle.

Between rows of tubers:

• for early varieties - 60 cm
• for late varieties - 70 cm.

Between tubers in a row:

• for early varieties - 25-30 cm
• for late varieties - 30-35 cm.

Here it is worth keeping in mind that the distances are indicated for tubers of a standard planting size - approximately the size of a chicken egg; I often plant small tubers - for them, naturally, the distance in the row is proportionally reduced; The distance between rows does not depend on the size of planting tubers.

The optimal planting depth is:

• on light soils - 10-12 cm
• on heavy and loamy soils - 8-10 cm
• on clay soils - 4-5 cm.

Again, small tubers should not be planted as deep as large ones (but in any case, deviation from the recommended parameters by more than 3 cm is not recommended). In this video, Doctor of Biological Sciences, Head of the Department of Potato Genetic Resources at VIR named after. Vavilova Kiru Stepan Dmitrievich talks about how to determine the correct planting dates and how to plant potatoes correctly.

Ridge planting

This is a method in which ridges about 15 cm high with a distance of about 70 cm between them are made in an area intended for planting potatoes, and then tubers are planted in them. This technology would be appropriate where groundwater lies close to the surface and the soil suffers from waterlogging. The method will also be useful on heavy soils that quickly compact, preventing air exchange. In practice, ridges are sometimes used simply because there is a tractor))

For example, in the village where I had a dacha, everyone plowed potato plots with a tractor. And since the tractor driver also had the necessary equipment for hilling, they planted them in ridges to minimize manual labor. I abandoned this idea, even though we have loams: in dry years, moisture leaves such ridges very quickly, and it is necessary abundant watering. And where I live now, the soil is completely sandy - here even the beds have to be made with sides, because the earth crumbles. And moisture does not stay in such soil, so another method is more suitable for us.

Planting potatoes in trenches

These are, in fact, ridges in reverse: on sandy soils that do not retain moisture well, as well as in arid climates, we do not raise the tubers above ground level, but, on the contrary, we deepen them, placing them in trenches laid taking into account all recommended distances.

Naturally, if we use this method in areas with high humidity or very dense soil, there is a risk that our potatoes will simply suffocate or rot in the damp soil.

Smooth fit

If you have a plot on a southern slope, where the soil warms up quickly and the soil is quite loose and moderately moisture-absorbing, you can plant using the “shovel” method. This is most convenient to do together. Rows of future plantings are outlined, then one of the participants in the process, moving along the intended line, makes small holes (some simply lift a layer of earth to lay a tuber under it, someone prefers the holes - then the soil from the next “planting point” is filled previous). The second one follows and lays out the tubers.

We used this method at one time when planting potatoes in the first year on newly plowed virgin soil. The tractor left behind huge layers of earth - it would have been impossible to depict any ridges or trenches there in any case. Somehow they broke up the large clods with a hoe, and put the tubers under the shovel - just as they are, as it turns out. By autumn, the area had been transformed - thanks to loosening and hilling, there were noticeably fewer weeds, and there were almost no large clods left. The method justified itself, I used it in the future.

Unusual ways to plant potatoes

Planting potatoes under straw

This method has become increasingly popular recently. In principle, there are reasonable reasons for this: less effort is spent with this method of growing potatoes than with traditional approaches. There are also disadvantages, of course - but here you need to understand the same thing as when choosing one of the usual methods: in different conditions the same option can give different results. In short, the essence of the method is that instead of soil, potatoes are covered with a thick layer of straw, adding it as the shoots grow. According to reviews, the potatoes turn out large, clean, and very convenient to remove. Skeptics note that straw holds water worse than soil, which means that during droughts you will have to water more often and more abundantly, and mice can also live in the straw. But I think that discussions here are unreasonable - you need to try it to make sure whether this method suits you or not. Planting under straw is good to use on virgin soil: in this case you won’t have to dig anything, but not a single weed will break through the straw, and next year you will get a plot that is already quite suitable for further cultivation. This method is used and on heavy soils- firstly, again, it saves you from digging up for planting, and secondly, if after harvesting you embed the remaining straw into the soil, you can significantly improve its structure and loosen it. Alternatively, the potatoes can be laid out not on a flat surface, but in small holes, which helps conserve moisture. Another option - instead of straw use grass clippings(the only obstacle: by the time we plant potatoes, for example, we still don’t have enough grass). Below you will see a short video about one of the options for using this method of planting potatoes: Another variation on the theme (my neighbors at the dacha tried it and were satisfied with the result): the potato bush is covered with grass on top (the tops are not collected in a pile, as with normal hilling, but are laid out in the garden bed). It is clear that this will require more space, but the harvest, according to reviews, is pleasing. There is no particular hassle: when the potatoes have grown, you cover them with newly cut grass and weeded weeds so that only the tops of the shoots stick out. And then you dig up the crop - or rather, you pick from the grass))

Planting potatoes under black film

Option - under non-woven material(also black). The method is incredibly simple: the film (material) is spread on a selected area (previously dug up and flavored with humus or fertilizers), its edges are securely fixed so that the wind does not blow away, and cross-shaped cuts are made according to the markings (possibly in a checkerboard pattern, or in rows). Then all that remains is to select the soil under each cut, forming a hole (the depth depends on the soil structure) and lay the tubers, sprinkled with the removed soil. That's all - the technology does not provide for weeding or hilling. The method is used more often for planting early potatoes- it allows you to get the harvest faster. They say that both the number of tubers and the quality are increasing. But the method is not suitable for all regions: in hot climates, the ground under the film will overheat, and our planting material will simply “cook”.

Planting potatoes in boxes

This requires quite labor-intensive preparation, but then maintenance is kept to a minimum. Container boxes are constructed (on the principle of warm beds) from available material. Dimensions: height - up to 30 cm, width - 100-120 cm, length - as desired and possible. The passages between the ridges are 50-80 cm wide. Box, like warm beds, are filled with organic matter, and then tubers are planted in them in a checkerboard pattern (in two rows, every 30 cm). They say that with this method of growing potatoes, the yield is many times greater than with conventional methods, and no care (hilling, weeding) is required. The beds can be used for more than one year if you add organic matter as the soil settles and after harvesting, sow the box with green manure. And the following video shows how such boxes and the entire process of growing potatoes (towards the result) can look like in practice:

Potatoes in barrels, bags, buckets...

The essence of the method is that a certain container is installed in a well-lit place and filled fertile soil, in which the potatoes are planted. The method has options. Sometimes they suggest making holes in the sides of the container and planting potatoes in them. Sometimes - lay out the planting tubers on a small “cushion” of soil, sprinkle with soil, and then add soil as the shoots grow (so, they say, you can even plant potatoes in several tiers if the size of the container allows). Here's a short video that shows what this might look like and what might come of it:

Potatoes in mounds

Here, instead of the usual long rows, it is planned to build hills or mounds. To do this, circles up to 2 m in diameter are marked on the treated soil. Holes are made around the circumference at a distance of 25-40 cm from each other and the tubers are laid out in them. The planting material is sprinkled with soil, and then, as the tops grow, the potatoes are hilled up, forming a hill. In the middle of it you should definitely make a “crater” hole for watering. According to reviews, this method helps with small area get pretty high yield. For myself, I have not yet found anything more convenient than the old ancestral methods of growing potatoes, but perhaps this year I will try to plant a small experimental bed under grass (in the absence of straw or hay).

Perhaps you know other ways to plant potatoes? Or have you tried one of the new methods in practice? Tell us in the comments - how do you plant potatoes, are you planning any experiment this season?

Zinaida Fedorova, Moscow

Thank you. Interesting article. I planted potatoes on black film with their tops, planted them in a trench and covered them with straw. I plant the rest of the potatoes in trenches with beans. I use ash everywhere. These methods produce a harvest many times greater than that planted in the usual way.

Galina F., Orenburg

Zinaida, is it possible to pour sand into the trench along with the ash? Today I also planted potatoes in a trench, sprinkled sand and ash, now I think it was a waste of adding sand. I just covered it with earth, because... no straw.

Svetlana Glazyrina, Talgar

for heavy soils, the layer cake method gives good results. We dig a trench as deep as a spade, put any organic matter on the bottom, sprinkle with earth and lay out the potatoes. Cover with 5 cm of soil. As it grows, lay down the grass and add 10 cm of earth on top. This is how we do it 5 or 6 times. The potatoes turn out to be very large and the soil, due to the rotted grass, is loose and nutritious, so there is no need to add fertilizer other than ash. I tested this method on heavy clay soil for 8 years and there were always good yields and large potatoes

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

Svetlana, thank you for sharing your technology! Heavy soils are really a problem: they are difficult to cultivate, and the plants feel uncomfortable in them, and your method allows you to successfully resolve this situation. Tell me, approximately what layer of organic matter (in thickness) do you put in the trench? That is, after planting, the potatoes are approximately level with the soil or are they still slightly buried? Or can it be varied - depending on soil moisture? As I understand it, your area is quite dry - that is, there are no problems with stagnation of water, right? On heavy soils, waterlogging is not uncommon, and in this case, probably, at the bottom of such a trench you need to lay something loose that does not rot for a long time, as when arranging warm ridges - to get drainage? In general, I think this method can be suitable for poor dry soils - there are problems here, but your “layer cake method”, I think, can solve them.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

I also used this method last year. Organics with a layer of 5 cm - food waste from an EM bucket, a little ash. I buried the tuber about 5 cm, I was afraid to put it closer to the surface. Covered it with a mixture of soil, rotted hay and leaves. An experiment was carried out on a small piece; they did not hill up, but “unhilled,” i.e. shoots that had grown to 15 cm were covered with mown mulch. Hay was added as they grew. The harvest was surprising, the potatoes were really clean, large, and I didn’t see any mice, although many people write about it. The “Adretta” and “Rosara” varieties produced 25-26 tubers each. “Veneta” and “Skarb” - 15 each. This year I will sow green manure early, and I have stocked up on organic matter over the winter. There were no Colorado potato beetles, no scab, but most importantly, it was easy. And I switched to stationary beds.

Svetlana Glazyrina, Talgar

I dig the holes deeper, and at the bottom I put 5 cm of humus and put 2 potatoes on the sides of the hole and also fill it with humus, when 15 cm grows, I fill it again with humus and add a spoonful of ash and 1 liter of chicken manure tincture, but then I hill it up...

Elena, Volgodonsk

I put 10 cm of organic matter, after filling the potatoes with soil, there remains about a half-full hole. The ditch is gradually filled with grass and soil, when it becomes equal to the soil level, I fold the grass and soil in a roller on both sides of the bushes, I make ridges up to 40 cm high. We don’t have stagnant water ,

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

Thank you for the article. This year we planted in 4 ways. 1st traditional (whole potato in a hole) 2nd (half a potato with ash) 3rd grandfather’s method (sprouts from potatoes), 4th (under mulch). We are waiting for the results, I wonder which of these methods will bring more harvest.

Olga Mikhailova, Minsk

Elena, then share the results, okay? You end up with an experiment, the results of which may be of interest to many. The opinion of someone who has tried this or that method is always useful. It's probably already quite warm in your area? We still have a long way to go before planting potatoes, it seems... There is still snow in some places, the ground in some places has not thawed at all, and the forecast again promises cold weather:((

Tatiana, Sudislavl

and we have already planted potatoes too. I don’t know what will happen, but I did this - I loosened the soil and covered it with straw.

Nikolay, Saratov

Olya, have you tried planting like this before? Or the first time? Did you bury the tubers or just spread them out? What is the layer of straw in cm? From what I saw with my dad using this method, some of the tubers turned green, but precisely where the layer was less than 10 cm when the straw was squeezed between the palms. And one more thing... Where the straw was rotten and dark, excellent potatoes turned out. Where it's yellow and shiny - not very good.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

I ask for advice, there is no straw yet, but my neighbor does woodworking and there is a lot of sawdust, can I use them instead of straw? The soil is sandy.

Nikolay, Saratov

Nikolay, I had no experience growing potatoes under sawdust. I use them to mulch strawberries and berries / cover the soil with fermented food waste spread out on it, because... I don’t use manure and I don’t use mineral fertilizers either. In any case, sawdust is not coniferous species. And they must also be stale, stubborn. It takes a very long time for the ground to warm up under the sawdust. Today I dug a pile, and under it was a lump of compressed snow.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

I'm worried that there may be a high temperature under the sawdust if it starts to rot. The sawdust is of course mostly pine. Why not coniferous species? There is no information in the comments about what to do after harvesting with mulch - digging or composting.

Olga Valerievna, Vladimir

Your thoughts, Nikolai, I understand. Time passes, boarding is soon, and questions without exact answers. Coniferous sawdust is resinous, which is probably why people don’t like them. They rot for a long time, if you don’t help, then up to 10 years. You won’t get high temperatures; rotting requires moisture and organic matter /I don’t consider treatment with urea/. Fresh sawdust is very difficult to spill with water, and even forms a crust. If you plant under sawdust, then why dig up after? It may be better to use biological products on site after harvest. Maybe you have another option to mix sawdust with last year's leaves, grass, food waste? But you have to try, at least on a small piece of land.

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

Today my husband and I decided to experiment: we planted 10 pieces of sprouted tubers in bags: at the bottom there was rotted grass from last year, then we took the soil, mixed it with purchased soil, and added ash. The bags were placed on boards. Although this is not a day for planting potatoes, we will wait for the result.

Leonid, Bratsk

And we will be waiting for your stories about how the process is going)) It’s a little cold here... I was planning to plant potatoes tomorrow or the day after tomorrow, but today I was digging the ground - my hands are already getting cold in the evening. It froze last night, and today it’s not hot - just above zero. Don’t you additionally protect your bags from the night cold?

Nikolay, Saratov

Nikolai, don't fall asleep fresh sawdust, you will be left without a harvest. Fresh sawdust is only suitable for bushes to retain moisture and fight weeds. Sawdust must be given time to burn out, only then it is suitable for application to the soil, mainly where the soil is heavy

Zulfira, Ufa

Thanks to all. I will plant traditionally. I think after hilling, so that the earth does not get too hot from the sun, sprinkle sawdust thin layer Can. “Use biological products on site after harvest.” - an unknown procedure for me. Usually in winter I slowly dig with a shovel and turn over the top layer.

Tatyana, Orel

We planted potatoes on May 1, which is too early for our region (they promise frosts down to -6 degrees) using a new technology for us - under pea hay. I kept the planting material in a box with wet sawdust - the results were very bearded, strong sprouts. The spaces between the rows were covered with cardboard and covered with sawdust. These recommendations were gleaned from N.I. Kurdyumov’s books “Smart Garden in Details” and “Smart Garden in Details.” Wonderful books, accessible and understandable, and even written with wonderful humor. I received a lot of new knowledge, which is reinforced on this site for summer residents. Now we will wait for shoots and, I hope, a good harvest.

Zulfira, Ufa

do you have photos of the results? Well, or what actually happened?

Tatyana, Orel

I can say one thing - that we will plant only this way; this fall we increased the area for planting potatoes. We ate our own potatoes all summer, usually we started buying the very first fresh potatoes at the market, but this year we ate our own!!!

The photo shows just the beginning of the harvest, this is the bottom layer that was on the ground and partially in the ground. It should be enough for the winter, but taking into account the fact that we want to get birds, we are thinking of buying 2-3 bags, just in case. As for planting under straw, there are only advantages. There is no need to hill up, there are very few weeds, and most importantly, we have never treated anything against the Colorado potato beetle, I only collected it once every 2-3 days, there was very little. We made one mistake when planting, we buried it a little into the ground, but we should have placed it on top, so the potatoes are not very clean. When the tops sprouted, we tilted them and laid another layer of straw, another row of potatoes grew on the bend - we are simply delighted with this method of planting. Many local residents came and also wanted to learn from the experience. It was a very rainy summer, almost everyone’s potatoes rot, but not ours!

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

I planted it like that, I agree with you 100%, then I stopped because there was no hay. ((It’s convenient to get potatoes for food during the season, I opened it, took as much as I needed and closed it back, and it continues to grow))

Tatyana, Orel

Zulfira, this year my experience with planting under grass was unsuccessful ((I didn’t have enough energy or time to dig in the spring - there was a lot of uncultivated soil. So I decided to experiment: I walked over the selected patch with a hoe to level and slightly loosen the soil, I laid out the sprouted tubers, sprinkled them with ash and covered them with dried grass. On the plus side: the soil remained moist under the grass, and roots were actively forming on the potatoes; weeds did not grow)) On the downside: the potato sprouts also couldn’t find a way out for a long time, and when it started to rain. , the tops of the sprouts, still under the grass, began to rot. In general, when the potatoes planted in the soil at the same time had already sprouted, but had not even appeared from under the grass, I became worried. Well, after I discovered the rotting shoots, I decided not to wait any longer - I removed the tubers from the grass and planted them in the traditional way - in the ground. After a couple of days, the seedlings were already turning green)) But I really liked filling the rows with grass. I start hilling potatoes early, and I hill them more often than recommended. But on loose sandy soil this causes problems: the ridges crumble. In addition, the moisture leaves them quickly; they need to be watered. This year, after listening to smart people here on the site, I began dumping mowed and weeded grass into the aisles. The result is great! Moisture is retained, weeds do not grow, the soil does not crumble - there were practically no green tubers, unlike last year's planting. Plus - additional nutrition for potatoes and favorable conditions for earthworms. Here! :)))

Zulfira, Ufa

the mistake was that you covered it under dried grass!! and for reference, potato seedlings planted under straw or hay appear later than those planted in the ground))

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

We laid cardboard between the rows, and sawdust on top, despite the heavy rains, the paths remained in excellent condition, I hope that they will remain the same next year. Marina, I’m adopting your experience; we’ll also put weeded grass on top. We were lucky with the hay, outside the village “there are collective farm fields all around, everything is mine,” there is plenty of hay, but then they burn it anyway. There is not enough money for fertilizers, so the hay is without chemicals.

Lyudmila Kovalenko, Moscow

In fact, there is a significant more options) Among my friends who are summer residents, there are many experimenters. This has been tried in different ways, and everyone has their own opinion on this matter. Those who praise straw and are categorically against grass, those who have successfully harvested crops under the grass... Some say that it is enough to spread the tubers on the surface and cover them with grass, others argue that it is absolutely necessary to cover them with soil first... I have asked many people who plants them and how they plant them. gets results) And there is no unanimity on this issue. The trick is that any non-traditional technology must be adapted to your needs, to your own conditions. What has been tested for generations for a specific area works in any weather and in any circumstances. And some new items need to be adapted. Including timing, by the way. Straw is a good heat insulator. Therefore, if you plant potatoes under straw on unheated soil, seedlings will come later: the ground still gives off a chill, but the straw retains this chill. And if we're talking about late boarding When the soil is already warm, there is no noticeable difference.

Olga Valerievna, Vladimir

We planted on May 2 in the Tver region. Is it colder here? The seedlings were different, from 5mm to 7 cm (for forcing I put them in different time). planted in raised beds, With onion skins, with shells and ash, covered it with straw and covered it with it. Let's hope!

Zulfira, Ufa

The bags were not closed because... There were no promised frosts, and the potatoes were well covered with soil. I will write about how the process is going and what came out of our idea.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

In the village where we live now, potatoes are planted no earlier than May 9th. No one has been planted yet. For two days in a row there was a very strong wind, rain and hail, we were worried that all the hay would be scattered, but everything was in place. Today it’s just raining, we think it’s good for our future harvest.

Zulfira, Ufa

Zulfira, in our area / east of Kostroma / they are planted en masse at this time too, but for hay and straw - from May 2-3. And there are frosts here in early June. My 90-year-old dad says that before, in his youth, they always planted at the beginning of June. My father was drafted in 1943, fought, and never returned here. But he bought a house after the death of his mother, 9 km from his home. He’s been living here for six months, and on May 11, his eldest son is supposed to bring him back from Moscow. Last year he told me a lot, his head is bright, including about potatoes. From the age of 16 until his conscription, he was a foreman on a collective farm. The May planting was connected with the May weekend, i.e. people chose a time when they were free from work.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

Tatyana, thank you, you are probably right about the landing time due to the holidays; relatives could also come to help. In these parts, they haven’t even heard of planting under straw, they come to look at our dunes and are very surprised, I even imagine that they are twirling their fingers at their temples. I’m very glad that your dad is alive, congratulations on the upcoming VICTORY DAY! Health, health, health!!!