How to build a house from timber with your own hands? Choosing a garden house and its phased construction Building a summer house from timber with your own hands

After a hard working week I always want to have a good rest. And for this you need to go to nature outside the city, to your home. You can build a house from timber with your own hands, having small area land. You can landscape it yourself, install water and heating there, and make a sewer system. You will want to spend every free day in this house, and eventually move into it.

Dacha design

A house made of timber is erected without experience in construction in several stages:

• design;
• laying the foundation;
• laying crowns;
• roof;
• finishing and laying of communication systems.

The timber has rectangular shape, which allows you to initially obtain uniform walls and reduce construction time. An important point is also that it can only be used for the construction of houses up to a maximum of the 3rd floor. It has several more positive features:

• good performance properties;
• ecologically pure;
• design and others.

A house made of wood is quite warm due to the tight fit of the wooden elements during construction. Wooden houses are also advantageous because the internal and exterior decoration It’s quite easy; you can use various decorative elements.

Before you move on to building a dacha, you need to make a design and calculate how much this construction costs.

It is better to order a building project from construction companies. Their technical specialists will calculate everything down to the smallest detail in terms of soil characteristics, construction technology, amount of material, and will even find you a developer.

But in order to save money, it is better to independently develop drawings and calculate the number and cost of elements. In the case of the construction of several floors, the project must have floor plan drawings. With the finished project, you need to contact a special institution to obtain permission to build a house.

If you have made or ordered a drawing, then after receiving the appropriate signatures and the approved project, we proceed to the foundation.

Laying the foundation

Main structural element of any building is the foundation. Before creating a project, it is very important to decide on the type of foundation of the house. If a mistake is made at the beginning of construction, an incorrectly designed foundation will lead to negative consequences when using the house and such problems will arise serious problems, How:

• warp of the base;
• cracks in load-bearing structure;
• deformation and others.

The reliability of the building's foundation is the durability and quality of construction.

There are several types of foundations used in the construction of country houses:

• from screw piles;
• tape and others.

In areas outside the city where soil moisture is high, foundations made of screw piles are often used.

Its advantages are as follows:

• cost savings of 2-3 times (compared to strip foundations);
• easy to do yourself;
• construction time - 1-2 days;
• high reliability;
• you can work with it at any time of the year;
• application for complex landscapes.

As practice shows, this design It’s worth building and pouring it yourself, as it will be much cheaper and more reliable than the work of so-called “specialists.”

The most popular base today in the construction of houses. Its advantage is that any house can be built on it, it is durable and less expensive. The base is quite strong, it uses much less building materials, and the time allotted for work is reduced significantly.

How to make a strip foundation yourself:

1. First, let's mark the area around the perimeter of the house.
2. Then we designate the location of the internal walls (load-bearing). The width of the dug trenches should exceed the width of the walls by at least 10 cm, and the depth should be above the freezing level of the soil, but not less than 0.6 m.
3. Pillows made of crushed stone and sand (10 cm each), poured into the trench, need to be filled with a half-smaller layer of concrete (5 cm).
4. The formwork, made from a 2.5 cm board, must be installed so that its top is visible above ground level (about 0.4 m).
5. For reinforcement, use 1 cm rods in two layers. The structure of them is laid longitudinally, then transversely, and the intersection points are secured with strong wire with a gap of about 5 cm.
6. Used for concreting popular look cement M400. To mix the solution, take it together with sand in a ratio of 1:3.
7. Concrete is poured into the trenches with a special pump or shovel.

The main thing is to prevent bubbles from appearing before it hardens. This is done using special technology. The concrete surface (not hardened) is periodically sprayed with water.

After pouring, construction of the house is suspended for a month. This is necessary for the concrete to harden and prepare to take on a heavy load.

Construction of a building

How to build a house from timber with your own hands? To build a warm and cozy cottage, you should take the choice of materials seriously. As practice shows, it is better to use timber made from coniferous trees, as it is strong and durable. There are two types:

• profiled;
• whole.

Let's consider each of them separately.

Profiled timber

It differs from the solid one in that it has crown grooves or tenons over the entire surface. Building a house from it is quite easy and quick.

The advantages of such a building:

• excellent thermal characteristics;
• modern design;
• smooth walls that do not require additional cladding;
• the design does not allow moisture to enter the inter-crown seam.

• is easily flammable (to eliminate this drawback, it should be impregnated with special means);
• requires insulation on both sides when living in the cold season;
• redevelopment in a house built from profiled timber is impossible.

This material should be chosen with a humidity of no more than 20% (this is achieved in special dryers for wood).

Solid timber

It has many advantages, but outwardly it looks bad. The process of preparing it for installation is quite fast. You can purchase the material at any construction company and in the construction market at minimal cost.

How to build a house from solid elements after choosing the material:

• it is worth preparing for the fact that there will be additional costs for its finishing (siding, lining) to give it a more aesthetic appearance;
• use only the highest quality wood; It should be treated before use antiseptics(to prevent the appearance of fungus).

In solid slats, the inter-crown seams are weaker than in profile ones. When wood shrinks and subsides, cracks and cracks appear. They are eliminated with the help of sheathing, which leads to additional costs.

We build a house from solid elements:

1. The first crown is made on a double layer of waterproofing, which covers the foundation. The quality factor of the building depends on its assembly. As a rule, elements measuring 150x150 mm are used.
2. The insulation is laid 0.3 meters more than the width of the foundation itself.
3. Then we assemble the walls from timber, which we pre-treat with an antiseptic. Each rail needs to be processed.

The tree is laid out in rows. If the timber is solid, its grooves are additionally insulated special material. For strength, the elements can be connected with special spikes.

Roof of a wooden house

The roof, as the final stage of building construction, should also look efficient and original. To begin with, lay the Mauerlat (it is better to use 150x150 elements) and attach it with hardware to the crown.

The rafter frame defines the shape of the roof. All parameters of the rafter system are specified in advance in the project. Slats up to 180 mm wide and 50 mm thick are secured with steel plates.

We install the rafter frame and cover it with a layer of high-quality vapor barrier. Then we install the sheathing (across the rafters) using nails. The distance between the slats will depend on the type of roofing material:

• tiles - solid (slats end to end);
• slate, corrugated sheeting - with a distance of 0.3 m.

It is worth remembering that a wooden house “shrinks” over several years. During this period, you can live there, but it is strictly forbidden to decorate and tile it.

After purchasing a country plot for a summer residence, the question of how to build a country house with your own hands becomes urgent. Well, building it yourself is quite possible, unless, of course, you are planning a huge “palace” that requires the involvement of construction equipment and a team of professionals.

Usually compact buildings are chosen for a dacha, but, nevertheless, the house must have everything necessary for rest - rooms, kitchen, veranda. The latter will become a favorite place for an evening pastime all family. It is very important to make the country house cozy and comfortable, so you need to think through all the nuances of its arrangement.

The optimal material for a country house building is wood, and the principle of construction is a frame structure.

Of course, the first thing that will need to be done is to decide on the location and size of the building, draw up a project, and plan further work.

Proe ct of a small country house

The size of the future house largely depends on the area of ​​the summer cottage, the number of family members and the financial capabilities of the owners. If you plan correctly, draw up successful project and choose inexpensive but high-quality material for construction, you can save space, money and work time.

Most often, a country house has a size of 5.0 × 6.0 or 4.0 × 6.0 m. Larger buildings are erected much less frequently, and mainly in cases where they are planned to be used year-round. But this, most likely, will not be a country house, but a full-fledged country house.

The layout of the house may have to be carried out based on the requirements that can be established by the board of the gardening association, therefore, when purchasing, you need to find out about such nuances in advance. Most often, the following distances must be observed:

• The house must be installed at a distance of 3 meters from the border of the neighboring plot, and from the fence separating the plot from the general passage (street) - 5 meters.
• In order to ensure fire safety, a stone house is placed at a distance of at least six meters from another stone building, and ten meters from a wooden one. If the house is wooden, then it should be installed at a distance of no closer than 15 meters from another wooden building.
• So that the house does not block neighboring buildings from sunlight, if it is placed on the eastern, southern or western side of the site, it is located at a distance from another residential building at least equal to its height.

Usually, the highest is selected for installing a country house. place on the site in which Water will not collect when snow melts or from heavy rains. High humidity under the house will never benefit any building material, but it will always have a negative impact on the overall strength and durability of the structure.

Most often, the following construction technologies are chosen for the construction of country houses: frame-panel construction, log houses, walls made of blocks or bricks.

For summer cottages, projects of one-story houses with closed or open verandas, or terraces. Often the structure has attic space, used for storing garden tools and other things that seem unnecessary in everyday use, but which can always be useful in the country. However, it also happens that in some projects there are no attic floor beams at all, and then the roof slopes simultaneously serve as a ceiling.

If the family is large, and the area of ​​the plot is not as large as we would like, then you can plan a two-story house that takes up very little space at the base. In this case, the first floor can be used as a living room, terrace and kitchen, and on the second floor you can arrange cozy sleeping areas for the whole family.

Not at all necessary in a dacha building, build a full second floor, since its role can be perfectly fulfilled by an attic superstructure. By decorating it with natural materials, you can create a wonderful, healthy country atmosphere.

Country houses are mainly used in the warm season, starting with the arrival of spring and ending in autumn. Therefore, they do not require enhanced insulation of walls and roofs, but devices for heating the premises must still be provided - in case of cold nights or a drop in temperature during unstable weather. Typically, electrical appliances are used as heaters, for example, convectors or infrared film emitters, but sometimes owners even prefer to install fireplaces or cast iron heating and cooking stoves.

By the way, if you plan to build a real fireplace or brick oven, then they must be included in the draft being compiled.

There are also ready-made options country houses, sold complete in disassembled form, which just need to be delivered to the site and assembled. Any such set of parts must be accompanied by detailed instructions, which outline the procedure for carrying out the work, basic technological techniques and connection diagrams individual elements and nodes.

For the owner of the site, who has basic construction skills, it will not be difficult to assemble such a country house yourself. The main advantage of this option is that often the kit already includes everything necessary for the electrical network of the building, for its ventilation system and even for installation of water supply.

Video: a small, neat country house that lives up to its name

What type of house to choose?

Having decided on the approximate plan of the future house, you need to choose the material for its construction. This choice will determine not only the appearance of the building itself, but also the comfort of staying in it, as well as the costs of its construction.

• The traditional material for a country house is wood, which will create a favorable microclimate in it, filling it with the smells of the forest. A wooden house can be erected frame method, from timber or logs. The disadvantage of wooden buildings is considered to be the high fire hazard of the material.

However, wooden houses have always been built, and many of them have stood for centuries. Today, there are special fire-retardant impregnations on sale that significantly reduce the risk of fire in wooden buildings. And in general - the most important thing here is not the material, but the human factor - namely, people’s neglect of basic requirements fire safety in the vast majority of cases it becomes the cause of fire.

• The construction of a brick structure will cost much more, but it can with good reason be called a full-fledged house, which can be used not only in the summer, but also, if necessary, in the winter, if you install a stove in it. Brick buildings are much less susceptible to fire and, with high-quality masonry, will last a very long time. Their disadvantages include a more complex and lengthy construction process, requiring special skills, and the high price of materials.

• Very often, different materials are used when building a country house. For example, a house is built from wood, but on a foundation made of concrete, brick or blocks.

This option can be called optimal, since a foundation made of moisture-resistant materials will create optimal conditions for the construction of walls made of wood, thus it will become a reliable foundation for the house.

Exactly this one last option and is worth considering, as it is the most popular of all types of country houses.

Stages of construction of a country house

Materials for building a country house

If you don’t want to bother with calculations, then it’s better to purchase a prefabricated model of a house that has a certain area, for which you only need to prepare a place.

In all other cases you will need to purchase Construction Materials. Their type, size, volume, total number - all depending on the size of the planned building, which is determined by the project.

Prices for various types of timber

Foundation material

For any type of foundation you will need following materials:

— sand, crushed stone, cement;

- third-grade board and timber for formwork;

- brick or concrete blocks;

— waterproofing material (roofing felt);

— expanded clay of the middle fraction.

Wall and roof material

Since wood was chosen for the construction of the walls, other materials will be selected based on this:

- bars and boards different sizes, depending on design parameters;

- fastening elements - nails, self-tapping screws, bolts, studs;

- corners of different configurations, metal plates– for fastening knots;

— vapor barrier film ;

— insulation — mineral wool, ecowool or expanded clay;

— to cover the roof, it is better to choose a lightweight material — ondulin or corrugated sheeting.

Once the installation location for the future house has been determined and the materials have been purchased, you can proceed to arranging the foundation. True, first you will have to decide on its type.

Country house foundation

Even when erecting such a small and light building as a wooden country house, you cannot do without a foundation. In this case, one of two types is ideal for these purposes - a columnar and strip foundation. Which one to choose depends on the preferences of the builder.

• A column foundation will be a less expensive option, as it will allow you to seriously save on building materials. In addition, such a foundation can be completed independently, without outside help, which will also save some money.

You can find out in detail how to build it correctly by following this link to the corresponding page of our portal.

• To create a strip foundation, you will need not only more materials, but also enough long term. This is not surprising - a trench will need to be dug along the entire perimeter of the future house, waterproof it, install a reinforcement structure, build formwork and fill the foundation pit with concrete. And after that, whether you like it or not, you will also need month period until the filled tape has completely hardened and gained brand strength.

However, strip foundations are still very popular among individual developers. This option is convenient because it allows you to make a basement under the house, however, to do this, the foundation walls will have to be raised above the soil surface by 700 ÷ 800 mm. is described in detail in the article, which can be found on our portal by following the link provided.

If a columnar foundation is selected, then it is recommended to remove the top layer of soil by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm from the site, which will be located under the house and around it by 500 ÷ 600 mm. Then pour a 30 ÷ 40 mm layer of sand into the resulting pit, which should be compacted. A layer is laid on top of the sand cushion mid-fraction crushed stone and is also compacted, and the remaining space must be filled with expanded clay of the middle fraction. All these procedures are done to ensure that small rodents cannot get close to the house. They cannot stand expanded clay (especially small clay), as it contains a large amount of dust and has a loose surface.

To protect your home from large rodents or other uninvited guests from the animal world, it is advisable to close the space under the house metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 mm.

Construction of a frame structure

A frame house can be placed on either a columnar or strip foundation. Construction always starts from the foundation, which must be reliable waterproofed two or three layers of laid roofing felt.

• If the project includes a veranda, you must immediately separate its zone, over which a roof will be erected, but there will be no solid walls. To support the roof over the veranda, you can use the racks of the general wall frame. Another option - veranda will be attached to the house separately.
• All without exception wooden blanks must be treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. These impregnations will increase the resistance of wood to fire, to decay, will prevent the appearance of insect nests or colonies of microflora representatives - mold or fungus.

• After the workpieces have received proper preparation and are completely dry, during construction, a lower frame (crown) is first made, which will be laid on the foundation and will subsequently be used to install the floor.

In order for the floor to be reliable, for the frame it is necessary to take quality bars the required section. If funds allow, it is better to choose wooden elements not according to the “lower limit” of dimensions, but by putting a certain margin in their cross-section.

The table shows optimal sizes timber for a frame house:

• The frame support beams are mounted on crown bars located along the perimeter of the foundation, at a distance of 600 ÷ 700 mm from each other. They are secured using corners or by inserting. If the elements are large in cross-section, they can additionally be fastened with metal brackets.

• When the lower frame with support beams is ready, the wall frames are made. They can be assembled separately, and then, when finished, lifted and secured to the framing bars.

Another option is to lift the frame directly into place. For example, if a house is erected independently, without helpers, then finished frame It will be very difficult to lift it from the tent alone to the height of the harness, install it evenly and temporarily fix it until it is finally secured. This means that each of the bars will have to be placed separately.

• The size of the bars for the wall frame posts must be at least 100x100 mm, but it can also be mounted from boards with a cross-section of at least 50x150 mm.

The bars are secured to the lower frame using powerful corners that can hold them in a vertical position. It is best to use self-tapping screws rather than nails for fastening - the difference in price is not so significant, but the quality and reliability of the assembly is incomparably higher.

• When installing vertical racks, you need to immediately mark the location of the openings for windows and doors. It is best to leave the area where they are to be installed free in the frame, and install the part of the wall with the window opening separately.

Then, when the upper strapping block is installed and secured to all other vertical posts, the area with the window opening is secured to the space left for it.

• All four walls are assembled in the same way. At the corners, the side posts are fastened together with corners, or instead of two separate ones, one common corner post is mounted. It is recommended to support it with diagonal struts on both sides - they will add rigidity to the entire wall structure.

• The doorway is installed in the frame immediately. It is reinforced with an additional rack, since a door suspended on hinges has a certain weight, which must be calmly supported by both the reinforced opening and the entire wall frame.

• If you plan to cover the frame from the outside with clapboard, then this is the next step. The sheathing will give the structure additional rigidity, which will allow the installation of the attic floor to continue and

Installation of the floor can be carried out immediately after the outer wall cladding, but only if the roof will be covered on the same day. It is highly undesirable for your freshly laid flooring to get wet if it rains unexpectedly at night. Therefore, it is better to first resolve the issue with the roof, and then calmly deal with all other construction activities inside the house.

Roof construction and roofing

Types of rafter systems

A few words need to be said about the types of rafter systems, since, moving on to the construction of the roof, it is necessary to have a general idea about this, to know which design is best to choose.

There are two types of rafter systems - hanging and layered.

Hanging system

The hanging rafter system is distinguished by the fact that it is installed only on external load-bearing walls and has no other supports. It is perfect for erecting over a small country house building. In order to ease the burden on wooden walls and on the foundation, the hanging rafters are fastened with a tie.

Myself hanging structure comprises cross beam, which also performs an overlapping function, and can simultaneously serve as a frame for lining the ceiling, as well as from rafter legs that form the roof slopes.

Layered system

A layered system is installed if the house, in addition to external walls, has internal permanent partitions that will become additional support points. This scheme can also be used when constructing the roof of a country house, if it has large area and its rooms are divided by walls built on foundations.

When installing this system, the load on the load-bearing side walls becomes weaker, so it will be possible to use fewer retaining elements. It's great for attic structures which will be used as living quarters.

Floor beams

The beams are laid exactly above the vertical posts of the wall frame. In order for them to fit tightly on the upper strapping belt, grooves are cut out at their edges. The size of the grooves can be calculated based on the formula shown in the figure.

The beams are secured to the frame structure of the walls using nails or self-tapping screws, and in addition they are sometimes fixed on both sides with metal corners.

Having completed the installation of the ceiling beams, you can proceed to building the roof truss system. For safety reasons, temporary boardwalk to ensure comfortable movement along the attic plane during installation of rafters.

Installation of the rafter system

The roof truss system can be mounted using different sequences of fastening its elements:

• First option. It is necessary to fasten the outer pairs of rafter legs on the ground, then lift them onto the harness and install them ready-made on the gable walls of the house. And then connect them with a ridge beam, and mount the remaining pairs of rafters on it.
• Second option. To begin, install the middle posts along the gables, then fasten them with a ridge beam or board, onto which the rafters are then attached.
• Third option. In this case, pairs of rafter legs in their upper part are attached to each other with a ridge plate, and their lower side is fixed to the wall frame, which is in this option will act as a Mauerlat.

The cross-section of beams or logs used for rafter legs must be strictly maintained - depending on the rafter length between two support points, and depending on the step between adjacent pairs of rafters

It should be noted that the attachment point for the rafters in its lower part will depend on the angle at which they are fastened to the ridge and how long they are.

If the rafter is long enough and protrudes beyond the load-bearing walls, then a notch is cut out on it, with which it will be installed on the strapping beam (). An example of such a notch is shown in the picture:

If the rafter ends at the edge of the load-bearing wall, then its lower edge is cut at a right angle to the Mauerlat, and the leg itself can be fixed to it using a special fastening plate, sliding support, corner, staples, nails or long screws.

If the house is very small, then after securing the rafters to the harness, tying them ridge beam or a board, you most likely will not have to install additional supporting elements.

Detailed information about the exact details can be obtained from a special publication on our portal by following the recommended link:

For installation of additional reinforcing elements of the rafter system, the material can be selected in accordance with the recommendations indicated in the table:

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Roofing system

After the rafters and additional elements form the roof slopes, you can proceed to the installation of the subsystem for the roof deck.

• The first thing that needs to be done on the outside of the roof, after installing the rafters, is to lay a vapor barrier film, securing it first with staples and then with counter-lattice strips on the rafters.

The film is laid perpendicular to the rafters, starting from the lower eaves of the roof. The overlap between two adjacent strips must be at least 200 mm.

• The main batten is mounted perpendicular to the counter-lattice, onto which the roofing material will be attached. The installation step of the guides depends on the type and size of the sheets of roofing material.

If a soft roof is chosen to cover the roof, then instead of sheathing slats, the slopes are covered completely - with plywood, and then with waterproofing sheets of roofing felt, which are overlapped by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm and glued together bitumen mastic. Another option is to use soft bitumen decorative tiles, which are laid using a similar technology.

• For wooden houses the following are most often used: roofing materials(depending on the steepness of the roof slope).
  

• The selected roofing material is laid and secured onto the prepared base. The work starts from the cornice, and if the first row is laid from right to left, then all other rows are installed according to the same pattern.

Some types of roofing materials have a strictly specified installation pattern in direction, which cannot be changed. This must be indicated in the instructions supplied with them.

Also, for any type of sheet roofing material, the amount of overlap in the direction of the slope (usually 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and the number of waves (relief protrusions) in the horizontal direction along the roof are determined.

• Almost all roofing materials are secured to the sheathing using special nails or self-tapping screws with waterproofing gaskets.

• It is very important to correctly select and secure the ridge elements of the roof, otherwise it will leak at the first rain. Typically, the ridge element is selected from the same material as the covering of the roof slopes.
• Next comes finishing eaves overhang roofs - this can be done with wooden or plastic lining. Sometimes special plastic elements - soffits - are used for these purposes.

• Then elements of the roof drainage system are installed on the wind board - funnels, gutters on brackets, pipes, etc.

• Next, the gable sides of the rafter system are sheathed. Most often, wooden or plastic lining or even planed boards.

For the lining, a special profile is fixed around the perimeter of the pediment triangle, into which the prepared panels, cut at the desired angle, will be installed. Installation is usually done symmetrically - from the middle post to one side and then the other - then the cladding will be smooth and neat.

By the way, install the lining, Besides, you can horizontally, herringbone, or come up with a more complex pattern.

Detailed information about the technology can be found in the article posted on our website by clicking on link.

Now, having finished the external finishing of the roof and being confident that rain will no longer get inside the country house, you can move on to installing windows and doors, insulation, flooring and wall cladding.

Installation of windows and doors

• Window frames are mounted in the frame openings left for them and leveled. For preliminary fixation when aligning the frame, spacers made of wooden blocks or slats are installed between it and the opening bars.

Then, after checking the correct installation, the frames are attached to the wall frame with metal strips. The remaining gaps between the frame and frame bars are filled with polyurethane foam. After it dries, the excess is cut off and around the windows with outside Platbands are installed on the walls, which will close the unsightly appearance of the gaps and give neatness to the overall appearance of the house.

• It is best to install the door together with the door frame, if it has sufficient rigidity. This will make it much easier to align the entire structure with the level in the wall doorway.

When exposing the door frame, if necessary, to achieve a clear vertical position, place wedges (inserts) made of wooden slats. Fixed door frame to the frame in the same way as window frames, using metal strips, and the gap is filled with polyurethane foam.

Having installed all the windows and doors, you can proceed to installing the floor.

Installation and insulation of floors

To begin with, the temporary flooring from the boards (if there was one) is removed from the lower frame, and then you need to install the subfloor.

• To do this, cranial bars are nailed or screwed onto the frame supporting beams. They are necessary for laying transverse subfloor boards on them.

• Next, boards cut to exact size or plywood 8 ÷ 10 mm thick are laid on the skull blocks - this flooring will serve as a subfloor.
• The subfloor laid on top is closed hydro- paro— insulating film, which should cover both the load-bearing beams and the entire floor plane. Individual sheets of material are laid overlapping (by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm) and taped at the joints with waterproof tape.

• Next, insulation material is laid or poured onto the vapor barrier film. If you don’t want to have neighbors who like to live under the floor, then it is better to use expanded clay of medium or fine fraction, or ecowool, to insulate the floor - these toothy pests simply do not live in such materials.

• Another layer of film membrane is laid on top of the insulation, which is nailed to the supporting beams with staples. The installation principle is exactly the same as on a subfloor.

• The entire structure is then covered with thick plywood or wooden floorboards.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Measures for additional thermal insulation

When the floor is completely ready, the walls of the house are insulated and sheathed from the inside. If the building will be used only in the warm season, then the insulation will still not hurt - it will work as an insulator of the premises from heating in extreme heat. Therefore, it is recommended to lay a thermal insulation layer not only in the walls, but also in the ceiling, and if it is missing, place insulation along the internal slopes of the roof.

• First, it is fixed to all walls and ceiling beams. vapor barrier material. Then the ceiling is covered with clapboard, plywood or plasterboard.
• After covering the ceiling, the walls are insulated. Insulation mats are laid between the frame posts. It is necessary to ensure that the mats fit as tightly as possible against the bars of the wall frame, so that there are no gaps left.

That is why they are most often used as insulation. mineral wool– after being tightly laid between the racks, it will straighten out, completely filling all the space. The material is usually selected so that the thickness of the mats and the thickness of the frame posts are the same.

• After this, all walls are again covered with vapor barrier film.

• The next step is wall cladding wooden clapboard, plywood or . The latter, during subsequent decorative finishing of the walls, can be painted water-based paint or covered with wallpaper.

• Next, the attic floor is insulated, where the insulation is placed between the floor beams.

If the ceiling is sheathed on the side of the house with plasterboard or clapboard, then we must not forget that you cannot step on it, since the sheathing will not support the weight of a person. You must move carefully along the floor beams.

• If the attic is planned to be used for storing various garden supplies, then a flooring made of boards or plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm should be secured on top of the insulation on the floor beams.
• The finishing touches of the interior decoration will be the installation of trim on windows and doors, ceilings and floor skirting boards and closing the corners with fittings.

Extensions to the house

The last stages of arranging a country house are installation work on the veranda and porch.

If a place is left in advance for the veranda on the frame lying on the foundation, then a board is laid on this space to cover the floor (material for open areas is used), a fence is installed and a canopy is mounted.

If the foundation is raised high enough above the ground, then a porch is also attached to it.

Building a country house with your own hands is a completely doable task, but it will be quite difficult to do without helpers. Therefore, it is best to seek help from a knowledgeable master who has experience in such work and will always give helpful advice and will show how to correctly install certain components in the structure of the house. You can “mobilize” your relatives and friends - it is possible that knowledgeable person will be among them.

Video: building a country house using frame technology

Preface

Being in cramped city apartments is stressful for many, even those who don’t really gravitate towards rural life. But few can afford country cottage, taking into account its cost. In this case, you can pay attention to small country garden houses built from timber or tongue-and-groove boards.

Wooden houses made of profiled or planed timber are unique in terms of their environmental friendliness, indoor microclimate, low cost and speed of construction. In most cases, a house can be completely built within one month. Ready-made structures are lightweight, so a complex foundation is also not required. Specialized companies can offer a variety of projects, using which you can build a one-story garden house or a more serious structure with an attic.

Implementing an inexpensive project to build a country house is not difficult. Let's consider the first option, in which the material passes pre-treatment and preparation for assembly. Before starting construction, you must ensure that all project documentation, determine the purpose of the building, the location of construction and the possibility of laying communications.

Any construction of country houses made of wood, even small-sized ones, begins with preparation. You can purchase ready-made ones from a construction company or create them yourself. For this you need:

• A detailed plan diagram with a precise indication of all dimensions, including the dimensions of individual rooms;
• Visual drawings of the structural connection of profiled timber, in places where wall blocks are tied and mated, as well as in places where the floor and rafter system are supported;
• A visual cross-sectional drawing of the finished structure, indicating the lower and upper elevations of the foundation of a country house, the vertical location of the floor and the height of the room to the ceiling structure;
• Schemes and designs of communications, their exit points and, if possible, connection points to highways.

Typically, construction from profiled timber or tongue-and-groove boards implies a wall length of no more than 10 meters. Such country houses can have a veranda or attic, one-story or higher. But, in any case, before construction begins, careful planning and preparation of the area for laying the foundation is carried out. Further work consists of constructing frame structure and filling wall blocks.

When using profiled timber, buildings are erected according to the type of constructor. At the factory, according to the project, all the necessary elements of the house with the necessary cuts are manufactured. They are treated with appropriate compounds, dried and labeled. At the construction site, all that remains is to assemble all the parts according to the design drawings.

The finished foundation, that is, its top horizontal plane, covered with a layer of roofing material, thus making waterproofing. After which the lower trim or the first crown is installed. Having adjusted all the parts and secured them to the foundation, you can begin installing the next rows. Considering that all logs are numbered in the required order, and the project has a specification and layout plan, it is possible to assemble garden houses from prepared profiled timber in a short time.

If you do not resort to using ready-made elements walls, then the process of construction from profiled or ordinary timber can take a long time. You will have to make the cuts and joints of the logs yourself and, after laying each crown, fit them tightly to each other. After assembling walls from profiled or planed timber, it is necessary to wait a certain period of time, during which the entire structure will shrink and the timber will adapt to the surrounding conditions.

The roof of a country house built from profiled timber can have a wide variety of shapes. The main thing is to make the calculation correctly, taking into account the load exerted by the roof and rafter system on the supporting structures of the house. The same timber and boards are used as the ceiling. Rafter legs are made from edged boards with a thickness of at least 2.5 mm, placed on edge. One end of the rafters rests on the upper crown of the log house. Top ends rafter legs are connected by a ridge beam to adjacent and opposite similar elements.

The ceiling of the building must be insulated. For this, modern materials are used ( mineral wool slabs, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam) or traditional bulk - expanded clay, sawdust, slag. Boards are also used to line the ceiling from inside the room. After installing the ceiling, you can move on to laying the floor.

Lay him out edged boards with a thickness of at least 45 mm on logs installed in advance on foundation blocks and embedded in the lower frame of the walls. All elements of the supporting structure of a wooden floor are necessarily impregnated with antiseptic compounds. Laying finishing boards is necessary only after there is a strong and leak-free roof over the house.

After assembly, country houses made of profiled timber are treated with various impregnations, after which, if necessary, interior decoration can begin. The pre-treated material has an already beautiful internal and external appearance. When building a house from ordinary timber, finishing on the outside can be done with lining made of wood or other finishing materials.

This fastening method allows for a strong connection between tongue-and-groove boards, creating reliable structures. The products are carefully processed, so the front surface of country houses assembled from this material also does not require additional decoration.

A house made of wood using tongue-and-groove boards is a ready-made set of various products that, like a children's construction set, are assembled into a garden summer house. In each product, all the necessary cutouts and protrusions are made in the factory, which make it possible to assemble the building quickly and easily on the construction site. House designs also undergo careful development, which subsequently allows for the most precise connections to be made and to ensure tight fit.

Weight load on foundation garden house made of tongue and groove boards is 60 and even 70% less than houses made of timber. Therefore, you can use a lightweight version of the foundation by making columns from concrete blocks or supports from asbestos-cement pipes.

When installing structures made of tongue-and-groove boards, it is necessary to provide for the location of several ventilation holes in the lower part of the structure. As a rule, this is included in projects. The joists for the subframe, pre-impregnated with antiseptic, are attached to the foundation at the same distance. Before starting to connect all the elements of the house, the accuracy of the layout must be checked. In order to prevent displacement under wind load, the frame beams are attached with metal corners to the foundation.

Wall blocks made from tongue-and-groove boards are mounted according to the attached diagram, where each board has its own number in the layout plan. First, half-pieces of the rear and front walls are installed, secured with screws to the foundation beam. Then comes the turn of the wall blocks. The first row of laying tongue and groove boards should slightly overlap the foundation beam, protruding a few millimeters above it. This ensures protection of the supporting block from dampness. Having laid out the first crown, you need to tap it around the entire perimeter with a striking block, and only after that begin laying out the next rows. Supervise the installation of all rows by the construction level.

Installation doorways in such designs, according to technology, it starts with 5 or 6 crowns. In this regard, there are strict rules: any doors must open outwards, and window systems, inclined and rotary type- inside. Adjustment of opening sashes and doors is carried out 3 weeks after construction.

Wooden garden houses made from tongue-and-groove boards have a simple roof structure. After assembling the walls, pediments are installed from finished parts. They have special grooves into which the elements of the rafter system are placed. Here it is only important to ensure that all wooden parts of the structure: gables, Wall panels– were in the same plane and tightly connected to each other. For reliability, all connecting elements are tapped with a mallet. After final assembly the necessary finishing work is being carried out.

Wooden houses are practical in any design. Both presented options have their positive sides, and the choice of one or the other is yours. We can add that, having made a quality one, you can stay in it until late autumn.

I spent a long time studying the Internet on the subject of how to build an inexpensive warm house. The most tempting were wooden ones, they are built in Western Europe and Canada, for summer residence. Having studied the question, it turned out that such houses are perfect for our winter. But here a dilemma arose: which house is better made of timber or frame? After reading the Internet, I called a friend from Canada, he is engaged in the construction of frame houses from timber, and received clear advice - you need to build a wooden frame house from timber. It's cheap, fast and economical. The choice was made, the same friend helped develop the project, all I had to do was draw up an estimate, and construction began at the end of August.

I’ll start in order: at the beginning of the summer of 2010, I purchased a plot of land and had a desire to build a house and move to a quiet suburb. I want to say in advance that the construction was delayed and the foundation poured in October 2010 stood for almost two years and only in the summer of 2012 we continued work. Below are photographs of a timber frame house taken during the work process.

Project of a timber frame house

Having already left half of the construction behind, I can say with confidence that it is easier to calculate all dimensions in advance and provide for the occurrence of possible problems on paper, without further suffering at the construction site adjusting materials. And there is no difficulty in finding finished project frame house made of timber on the Internet, something special can be ordered from the appropriate organization. Don’t save money, it will come back to you with no problems at the construction site and a beautiful frame country house made of timber.

First floor layout:

Second floor:

This is what the dacha plot looks like before construction begins. Everything on it is the same as on our project of a frame house made of timber. Markings were made for the place where the water supply system enters the house and the place where the sewer system leads to our septic tank. Very important point Don’t forget to do all this at once and the price of a timber frame house will be much lower when the work is carried out before the foundation is poured.

We have a strip house 600 mm deep and 300 mm wide, the house is light and does not carry the same load on the foundation as a brick one, so it could be done on stilts - it is a little cheaper, but I decided not to save money on making a strip house, it is more reliable.

This is what blocks of 12 mm reinforcement look like - the basis of our foundation.

12 mm reinforcement was taken as the basis. Triangular blocks were assembled from it and filled with concrete to ground level.

We pour concrete into the formwork.

The next stage is laying concrete blocks, making three rows.

Passages between our rooms and ventilation passages, or vents, I think that’s what they are called scientifically, begin to emerge. This is how they are built frame houses from timber with your own hands.

The costs at this stage of construction of our frame house are:

Septic tank, overflow, two wells with four rings each (material and work). 29,000 rubles.

Installation of sewerage from the house to the septic tank (material and work). 6500 rubles

Foundation materials (rebar, concrete, blocks, cement and sand). 70,000 rubles.

Work on pouring the foundation. 70,000 rubles.

At the first stage it was spent. 175,500 rubles.

Prices 2010.

DIY timber frame house, continued 2012, June

After a long break, I am starting again to build a country frame house from timber, fortunately the foundation has managed to stand, almost two years have passed. I purchased timber and purchased 20 cubic meters of lumber; according to the estimate, this should have been enough to build a frame without rafters. very carefully, for this I even had to buy a device to measure the moisture content of wood. It’s not so easy to buy a normal tree in our forest-rich country. The quality of the wood leaves much to be desired, this applies to both humidity and discrepancies in size. So we had to visit a huge number of warehouses and check literally every one for humidity, but in the end, 20 cubic meters of dry wood were purchased.

So, the foundation was left in this condition for a year and a half, and we continue the construction of a turnkey timber frame house.

The first day.

We proceed to the bottom trim, coat the top of the foundation with bitumen mastic - the sticky thing doesn’t really get dirty, then you can’t wash it off and cover it with TechnoNIKOL waterproofing. In the future, this should prevent rotting of the wooden base of the prefabricated timber frame house.

Almost 20 cubic meters of lumber were purchased, which, according to calculations, should have been enough for the frame of the box, without rafters.

Let's start with the bottom trim.

The bottom trim is supplied with timber 200/200 for external walls and 200/100 for internal partitions.

Before laying the entire beam on the strapping, we coat it with Velux fire-bioprotectant; we also had one can of Senezh, that was also wasted.

Total for lubrication bottom trim 15 liters of fire and bioprotection were used.

This is what building a frame house from timber with your own hands looks like, the end of the first day of work.

Second day.
We install the first rack.

We place 200/200 timber on the main (corner) posts.

Second and third pillars.

All posts of a frame country house made of timber are 200/200 mm.

A little more and the frame of the walls on the first floor is ready.

On the intermediate walls there are 100/200 timber, in 1 meter increments, depending on the location of the windows and internal walls there are larger or smaller gaps.

We connect the timber into corners 105/90 mm.

The supports for the floor joists on the first and second floors are 185/50 brackets, 2 mm thick, galvanized steel.

We install the 200/200 racks on dowels, which are sawn from rake cuttings.

Result of the third day: construction - the frame of the first floor is 70% ready

We spent the entire fourth day working on the bay window and finishing it.

They put a partition in the corridor and a partition between the walls of two rooms on the first floor.

About a third of the second floor was covered with logs.

Well, a few more photos of a frame house made of timber, components and general views:

Gradually we replace some of the temporary jibs with permanent ones.

Connection of timber on a bay window.

The following fasteners were purchased and have not yet been completely used up:

Nails 80, 100, 150 and 200 mm, 10 kg of each type.

Yellow self-tapping screws 5/50 11 kg.

Reinforced corners 105/105/90 350 pieces.

There are about 200 staples for the joists (aka beam supports).
They are available for 50th board and 100th timber, we use 10th board in the bay window area, there is a larger opening there and the joists are not made from 50/200 boards, but from 100/200 timber.

The fifth day is ahead...

It’s already clear that 2 200/200 beams and one cube of 50/200 board were missing, I’ll go buy more tomorrow. What will be the price of a frame house made of timber, additional costs appear.

Which house is better made of timber or frame?

I think I wasn’t the only one wondering which house is better made of timber or frame. No specialist can answer this question unequivocally; I decided for myself that a house is built to suit the specific needs and capabilities of a person. Definitely, a huge advantage of a frame house is its price, speed of construction and savings on heating. A wooden frame house made from timber also has its advantages - speed of construction and relative cheapness. True, a truly warm house will still be more expensive than a frame one, because the thermal conductivity of wood is three times less than basalt wool or other modern insulation materials. The cost of a turnkey frame house is much less than a similar one made of timber, but it would be useful to pay attention to compliance with all construction standards. Considering the current situation in the construction market, I observe a blatant non-compliance with all the standards of the technical process, this is both non-compliance with GOSTs regarding wood moisture content, and the use of wood that does not correspond to its intended purpose. OSB boards. Only one conclusion arises - look for a bona fide contractor or build it yourself.

My opinion on the issue of choosing a house, be it brick, frame or made of timber, any house in which it is comfortable to live and has enough money to maintain it can be considered good.

Day five.

I bought the missing timber.
What's the problem when buying timber from different places - the size varies noticeably. In the first purchase, the timber was 190/190, now it is exactly 200/200.
There will be a lot of leveling later when finishing the interior...

So today we made the door openings.

All the windows of the frame house made of timber were cut off in height. True, for some reason it was a 50/200 mm board instead of a 100/200 mm timber. I'll find out tomorrow.

Racks have been installed in the hallway.
Beam 100/150 mm.
The corridor is wide, almost 3 meters. On the second floor, part of the corridor will turn into a room.

The second floor floor joists were installed.
Again, the board is 50/200. In the bay window area 100/200 mm.
In the background you can see the window opening in the bathroom.

They installed jibs on the corner posts in the rooms.

And logs in the corridor area.

Total: frame of the first floor and 2 floors, completed in 5 working days.

So, day 6.

We go out to the second floor. The 150/25 board, which is actually lathing, was lifted from the first floor to the second. Because you have to walk on something.
Then it will move to the third floor and then to the roof and become, in fact, a sheathing. We install 200/200 pillars on the second floor.

Let's continue...

We cover the piping of the second floor.

And a few photos directly from the second floor.

Closely placed racks are load-bearing (the rack above the rack and additional racks that will contain windows)

Upper frame of the second floor.

That's it, the sixth day of construction is completed...

Frame house made of timber, photo of the second floor

In the photographs you can see the almost completely finished frame of the house. On the seventh and eighth days it rained for half a day, the pace of construction has slowed down, but nevertheless we are moving. I think in another day the roof will be ready.

We placed racks in the corridor:

Photo of a frame house made of timber, this is what the partitions between rooms look like.

Part of the room with a bay window:

The bay window itself has not yet been connected, there is a lot of fuss with it, I can tell right away.
For those who have a bay window in their project, please note that assembling its frame is a creative activity but can increase the price of a frame house made of timber...
Although this is not a reason to refuse it. We lay the floor joists between the second floor and the attic.

First, we drill a bracket to the joist using 5/50 self-tapping screws (yellow!):

And we put it in a pre-marked place.
Since our attic is not residential, no one will walk in it much, we use a 50/10 mm board here.
The length of the opening is 3.40 meters. The lag laying step is 60 cm.

And yet they laid out two spans:

We assembled the bay window frame:

Day 9 of building a frame house from timber with your own hands.
We lost at least 1 day due to rain.

Today I bought another cube of wood, there wasn’t enough for racks and joists.

I've run out of mounting brackets and 100 nails, I'll go shopping tomorrow. By the way, a reinforced fastening angle, 105/105/90, in our Shchelkovo region costs no less than 40 rubles. per piece, from the manufacturer, 17 rubles.
I have to go to Mytishchi tomorrow, it’s not a budget overpayment.

We cover the frame with fire-bioprotection with a tinting effect.
By the way, I really don’t recommend taking a colorless one - you’ll be tortured to remember where you painted it and where you didn’t.

We go out onto the roof, lay the same 25/150 board on the floor, which will then be used for the sheathing.

We cover all the rafter boards, counter-battens and sheathings with fire and biological protection on the ground - it’s easier and costs less.
2 hours - and the first rafters are standing :)

We continue - the ridge and a couple more rafters:

Well, and a traditional wreath on the first rafter.

Work continues on the rafter system:

And immediately we sew up the pediment with a 25/150 board

And we proceed to covering the house with the same inch:

Your daughter will grow up and say, “Remember, dad, how I helped you build your house?” :)

On the second floor this happens using a three-section staircase with a total length of 6.80 meters.

In the meantime, the rafters were covered with waterproofing and lathing was laid:

This is what the house looks like in August 2012.
We are waiting for metal tiles and windows.

The greenish color is not a glitch of your monitor, it is the treatment of the boards with a bioprotective preparation.

We wrap the house in a windproof membrane. We use Tyvek Housewarp.

In the meantime, the roof was delivered.

Grand Line, velor, color RR-32

Ridge, wide lower valleys, upper valley overlays, cornice strips:

The weather is certainly brutal... Rain alternates with frosts...

The installation of the roof took 10 days.

Here is the result:

Price of a timber frame house at the time of construction

So, from timber:

Prices 2010:

Overflow septic tank, consisting of two wells with 4 rings each - RUB 29,000. along with work.

Laying a sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank - 6,500 rubles. (work and the pipe itself).

Foundation materials (concrete, reinforcement, blocks, sand and cement) - RUB 70,000.

Foundation work - 70,000 rubles.

Zero cycle total: RUB 175,500.

Prices 2012:

Construction of walls, rafter system, roofing and its installation - 670,000 rubles.

Which house is better made of timber or frame - your own, of course.

We begin the 2013 construction season with the order and installation of windows, approximately at the beginning of February.

Frame construction is becoming more common. The main reason for the popularity of this method lies in the significant reduction in labor costs, in addition, frame technology allows you to achieve significant savings. Performance characteristics houses built using this technology make it possible to use frame houses even in the climatic conditions of most of the territory of Russia.

In addition to the benefits of saving time and money, timber frames are sometimes used for architectural reasons. In this case, part of the bars acts as architectural element facade. In such cases, a rounded log or profiled beam is used.

Types of frames for houses made of timber

To create a frame, both beams and boards can be used. Glued laminated timber is also quite popular. The only advantage of a frame made of boards is some savings in lumber, but this will have to be paid for by reducing the rigidity of the final structure. Therefore, a frame made of timber can be called the best option.

In addition, according to the technology of installing the frame of a house made of timber, there are 2 ways of performing the work:

• when the structure is assembled in a vertical position. In this case, it is especially difficult to control the verticality of the elements.
• a technology in which the frame is assembled in a horizontal position and then, using a conventional winch (or manually), is installed in a vertical position.

Tools and materials for frame installation

For frame construction You will need the following set of materials and tools:

• the lumber itself;
• nails;
• anchor bolts (necessary for attaching the lower trim to concrete foundation), be sure to use nuts with wide washers, this will prevent the nut from sinking into the wood and ensure proper fastening;
• set of carpentry tools;

• wood processing substances;
• casein glue;
• plumb line, building level;
• reinforced corners, perforated brackets;

• winch, if the frame will be installed on a horizontal surface and then raised to a vertical position.

How to make a timber frame with your own hands

To ensure durability, it is necessary to protect the tree from insects and climatic influences (treatment with an antiseptic and antipyretic); this can be done at any stage of construction.

The frame of a house made of timber can be divided into upper and lower frames, racks, elements that give the frame additional rigidity (mitters) and special elements (with their help, door and window openings are created). It is recommended to perform the work in the following sequence:

Installation of the bottom trim

Before installation of the frame begins, the foundation concrete must have time to harden. Since the weight of a wooden frame is much lower than the weight of e.g. brick wall, then most often a strip foundation is used, rather than a solid one.

Device allowed pile foundations. Before laying the bottom frame beams, it is necessary to additionally level the surface of the foundation, for example, using a thin concrete layer. Although leveling can be done after attaching the bottom trim to the concrete - using an electric planer.

Before laying the beams on concrete, it is necessary to lay a layer of waterproofing(regular roofing material will do).

Roofing felt should be laid immediately before installing the lower trim. It is forbidden to leave roofing material just lying on the foundation for a long time.

Most often, beams are attached to the foundation with anchor bolts. You can also leave the reinforcement outlets at the stage of pouring the foundation, this will make it easier to attach the beams. The length of the anchor bolt must be selected based on the fact that at least 100 mm of the bolt must be in the concrete.

The maximum step between anchors should be within 1.0 - 2.4 meters. If the beam is short, then it must be secured with at least 2 anchor bolts.

In the corners, the beams are connected to each other, despite the many connection methods, the most often used connection is a claw or half-tree connection. For greater reliability gusset reinforced with nails or wooden dowels.

To prevent the wood from splitting, the nail must be driven in at a distance of 1.5 - 2.5 cm from the edge of the beam.

The wooden dowel is made from hard wood and has a cylindrical or 4-sided shape. It serves simultaneously to connect the beams of the lower trim and to install corner posts. The length of the dowel is selected based on the fact that it should rise at least 100 mm above the surface of the beams of the lower trim.

When installing the dowel, you can lubricate the hole under it and the dowel itself with casein glue.

Installation of racks

The first step is to install the corner posts. If the beams were connected by dowels, then the racks are simply mounted on it. It is first necessary to drill a hole of the required diameter and depth in the end.

Otherwise, the racks are attached to the beams using steel angles. In this case, it is best to use galvanized screws. If your budget allows, it is recommended to use corners for attaching intermediate posts.

To save money, you can use another fastening method - the cutting method. In this case, grooves are made in the timber with a depth of up to half the thickness of the timber. Then the bars are inserted into these grooves. Before starting installation, it is advisable to carefully mark the design position of all vertical posts. This is important, because under window openings and in the area of ​​doorways, you may have to change the selected step.

Before installing the racks, it is also necessary to check their thickness. If they are fastened using corners, then their length should correspond to the height of the floor. If fastening using cutting is used, then the length of the rack is equal to the height of the floor + 2 thickness of the cutting.

Installing racks using the cutting method is more economical, but requires much more time. In addition, the beam of the lower trim is significantly weakened.

But fastening the racks only in the lower part is not enough; until the upper trim is installed, the rigidity of their fastening will be insufficient. Therefore, each rack is secured with a temporary bevel. You can use one long slope that covers several posts at once. Without these bevels, the racks may become loose during the installation of the frame.

To save lumber, temporary cuts can be made from unnecessary boards. For example, from dismantled formwork that was used to pour the foundation.

Installing the top trim

Includes connecting beams to each other and attaching racks to them.

Braces

The resulting structure still does not have sufficient rigidity to eliminate this drawback by vertical bars diagonal connections are attached - braces. Their cross-section may differ to a smaller extent from the cross-section of the racks themselves.

In this case, the braces must be placed flush with the inner surface of the racks.

Ceiling beams

The final stage in creating the frame of a house made of timber can be considered the installation of ceiling beams. Beams can be attached to the top frame in several ways: using special brackets, notching or using corners.

When using the cutting method, grooves are made in the beam itself at the edges of the beam. The width of the groove should correspond to the width of the beam, and its depth is 30% - 50% of the thickness of the beam. To fasten the beam to the beam, nails should be used, the length of which should be such that the nail enters the beam at least 100 mm. Floor joists are attached in a similar way.

At this point, the creation of the timber frame can be considered complete. All that remains is to mount the frame for the roof. For rafters, boards with a section of 50x150 mm are used. To give rigidity to the structure at the top, they are connected by small planks; at the bottom, ceiling beams act as an additional connection.

Also, at all stages of installation, it is necessary to monitor the compliance of the frame with the required geometric parameters.