Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams. Do-it-yourself brick stoves for the home. stage. Building material: choice

Today, numerous solid fuel manufacturers heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal furnaces and boilers, which is replenished with more and more new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, owners of non-gasified houses still have the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only answer this question, but will also introduce the reader to various types of stoves and the technology for constructing a brick type with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of a brick stove in the house

So, let's try to understand why the ancient heating device often turns out to be more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:

• The stove body is an excellent heat accumulator: Thanks to this property, a brick stove has to be heated much less often than a conventional steel or even cast iron one. Some varieties retain heat for up to 24 hours, while in the firebox metal furnace Firewood needs to be added every 4-6 hours.
• The ability to accumulate heat makes a brick stove more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal “substitutes”. The fuel in it burns in an optimal mode - with the greatest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The excess heat generated in this case is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
• The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to a high temperature.

Due to this, the thermal radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, upon contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns, releasing harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant smell). Of course, you can’t get poisoned by them, but they certainly cause harm to your health.

• A brick oven (this does not apply to stone ovens) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called furnace breathing. Thanks to it, the relative humidity of the heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40–60%. When operating any other heating device that is not equipped with a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.

A steel stove has nowhere to put excess heat, so it has to be either heated frequently, adding small portions of fuel, or operated in smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one load of fuel increases, but it burns with incomplete heat transfer and with a large amount of carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.

It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove produces noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while black smoke constantly pours out of the chimney of a steel stove in which the fuel is smoldering. Metal solid fuel heaters do not have this drawback. long burning(full-fledged, and not so-called gas-generating furnaces, which only imitate gas generation). But they are very expensive, they have complex design and need electricity, which a brick kiln can easily do without.

What can be opposed to all of the above? A brick oven takes a long time to warm up a cooled room. Therefore, homeowners are recommended to acquire an additional steel convector, which will heat the air in a forced mode while the stove is heating.

It should also be taken into account that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that must be built together with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master, who still needs to be found.

Application of brick kilns

The scope of use of stoves is not limited to their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:

1. Smoking meat and fish.
2. Remelting scrap metal (cupola furnace).
3. Hardening and cementing of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
4. Firing ceramic products.
5. Heating blanks in a forge workshop.
6. Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bathhouse.

But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here it will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to rapid deterioration.

Types of structures

The above diagram may vary in different furnaces. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-shaped.

Dutch

This scheme is called channel serial. This stove is very easy to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but its maximum efficiency is only 40%.

Swedish unit

A very good option for a heating and cooking stove.

A very successful option for a heating and cooking stove. Its design is called a chamber design. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the stove and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has a number of advantages:

• Efficiency at 60%;
• in the oven on the side you can install a heat exchanger to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the roof of the oven;
• Gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), so for its construction you can use building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar;
• a convector with this shape heats the room to its entire height as evenly as possible;
• near the Swedish oven you can quickly warm up and dry yourself if you open the oven door.

Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.

Bell furnace

Self-regulating scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after complete combustion under the hood.

This mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is quite complex to manufacture (the design involves high loads). Yes, and it can only be used for heating.

Russian stove-bed

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector.

The design of a Russian stove, like an English fireplace, is called flow-through. It does not have a convector. The owner of a Russian stove benefits from the following:

• Efficiency reaches 80%;
• the building has an interesting appearance;
• such dishes of ours become available for preparation national cuisine, which cannot be cooked except in a Russian oven.

You can fold a Russian stove yourself if you strictly follow the drawings. The slightest deviations can ruin the design.

General structure of the furnace, drawing

The design of the furnace is not particularly complex.

In the brick mass there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (item 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the firebox. Under the grate there is another chamber, called an ash pit or ash pan, which is also closed by a door (positions 4 and 6). Through this door, air from outside enters the oven and through it, the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.

Through the hole at the rear wall, the flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined channel directed towards the front wall. The hailo ends with a narrowing - a nozzle. Next comes a U-shaped channel, called a gas convector (item 16).

The walls of the gas convector heat the air moving through a special channel inside the furnace. This channel is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its exit there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in the summer.

The chimney contains the following elements:

• cleaning door (item 12): the smoke exhaust duct is cleaned through it;
• valve for adjusting the combustion mode (item 15);
• view (pos. 17): also a valve, by means of which, after kindling, when all carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is closed in order to retain heat.

Thermal insulation surrounding the chimney in the intersection area attic floor and roofing is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This widening is called fluffing (pos. 21), it is also considered cutting.

After crossing the roof chimney has another widening - otter (position 24). It prevents rain moisture from penetrating into the gap between the roof and the chimney.

Other positions:

• 1 and 2 - foundation with thermal and waterproofing;
• 3 - legs or trenches: for a stove with such elements it is required less bricks, besides, from below it has additional surface heating;
• 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (vent), through which uniform heating of the room along the height is achieved;
• 10 - combustion chamber;
• 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
• 20 - furnace roof;
• 22 - attic floor.

Preparation for construction

Necessary materials, selection

When constructing a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:

1. Building ceramic brick(red). They are laid out in the lowest rows - the so-called flood part (indicated in the diagram by oblique shading), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
2. Kiln ceramic brick. Also red, but compared to construction grade it is of higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Externally, they can be distinguished by size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40(65) mm, while those of the construction one are 250x125x65 mm. The fire (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with stove bricks; in the diagram it is indicated by checkered shading.
3. Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines high heat capacity (it is a very “capacious” heat accumulator) and equally high thermal conductivity.

Note! Face brick cannot be used in this case.

Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the fire part with fireclay bricks alone - the oven will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense thermal radiation. That's why outer surface must be lined with at least half a brick of oven bricks.

The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of stove bricks. It is often recommended to determine its quality by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare fireclay clay from different deposits, the color does not always provide an objective characteristic: dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.

A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles visible to the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the picture, a high-quality sample is on the left). When tapped with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should produce a loud and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it splits into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond with dull sounds when tapped, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.

Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:

1. Cement-sand: those parts of the furnace that consist of ordinary building bricks, laid on ordinary cement-sand mortar.
2. High-quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of mountain sand and Portland cement grade M400 and higher, is used if the furnace is supposed to be fired irregularly. The fact is that a dried clay solution, if not heated sufficiently, can become saturated with moisture and become limp again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200–250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on mountain sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the stove will often be idle during the cold season.
3. Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: excellent quality solutions are obtained using sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
4. High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.

To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:

• the clay is soaked for 24 hours, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
• dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 variants of the solution: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
• after drying for 4 hours, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder must be wound around a blank with a diameter of 50 mm.

Let’s analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the very surface layer is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry at a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; For deeper cracks, the solution is considered unsuitable.

Tool

In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:

• trowel;
• hammer-pick;
• grooves for seams;
• shovel for mortar.

The stove maker must have an ordering rack. It has a cross-section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening at the seams and marks corresponding to the position of individual rows. By installing 4 rows in the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.

Calculation of a simple heating device

The method for calculating a furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I.V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m2 oven surface area are taken following values heat transfer:

• under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
• at severe frosts when the stove is heated particularly intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.

Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, having a surface area of ​​17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in normal mode, and 13.3 kW of heat in intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of ​​80–100 m2.

The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today there is no need for it. Rather than designing and manufacturing a homemade firebox, it is better to purchase a ready-made one in a store: it is already designed according to all the rules and will cost less.

When choosing a firebox, consider the following:

1. The size of the firebox and the location of the fasteners must correspond to the standard size of the brick used.
2. For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for constant use you need to buy only a cast iron firebox.
3. The depth of the ash pit (the lower narrowing of the firebox) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if the furnace will be fired with coal or peat most of the time, and one fifth if the main fuel is wood or pellets.

The cross-section of chimneys that meet standard requirements (straight vertical stroke, height of the head above the grate - from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the power of the furnace:

• with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
• from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
• from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.

It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, so sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the accepted cross-section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.

Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to accomplish exact calculation manually - just count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. More modern version- simulate the oven in one of the computer programs designed for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.

Choosing a location, scheme

The method of installing the stove depends on the size of the house and its location in it. various rooms. Here's an option for a small one country house:

In the cold season, such a stove will efficiently heat the entire building, and in the summer, with the window open, you can cook quite comfortably on it.

IN big house with permanent residence, the stove can be positioned as follows:

In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a door made of heat-resistant glass.

And thus a brick stove can be installed in an economy class home:

When considering the location of the furnace, you need to consider the following:

1. A structure containing more than 500 bricks must have own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
2. The chimney should not come into contact with the attic floor beams or roof rafters. It should be taken into account that in the area where the attic floor intersects, it has a widening called fluff.
3. The minimum distance from the pipe to the roof ridge is 1.5 m.

There are exceptions to the first rule:

1. A hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heating panel, can be installed without a foundation if the floor can withstand a load of at least 250 kg/m2.
2. In a house with a sectional strip foundation, a furnace with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations interior walls(including T-shaped). In this case, the minimum distance from the furnace foundation to the foundation strips of the building is 1.2 m.
3. A small Russian stove can be erected on a foundation made of wooden beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble masonry of the building foundation.

Preparatory work consists of laying the foundation and laying thermal and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation is built under it, or a rubble foundation can be used. A conventional furnace (without trenches) is built on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation must protrude beyond the outline of the stove by at least 50 mm.

The insulating “pie” is assembled in the following sequence:

• roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
• 4–6 mm thick basalt cardboard or the same asbestos sheet is laid on top;
• then lay a sheet of roofing iron;
• All that's left to do is put it down last layer- soaked in highly diluted masonry mortar basalt cardboard or felt.

Laying can only begin after upper layer will dry to the roofing iron.

Before starting masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which usually consists of a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed against the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a covering must be at least 300 mm away from the stove, while its side edges must extend beyond the stove by 150 mm on each side.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire placed in the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter, only the external size of the chimney increases, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.
2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.
3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic bricks need to be moistened by dipping them into a container of water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove-makers apply the solution by hand, since they can be laid with a trowel. thin layer 3 mm thick is not easy. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. She should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is closed hob or vault (in pure heating stoves). Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it.
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (crossflows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. Keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied to the installation site thick layer solution. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was carried out without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. At standard sizes blocks, the seam between them inside (from the firebox side) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.

Rules and nuances of operation

For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack only 2 mm wide in the valve area will provide heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.

The stove also needs to be heated correctly. If the blower is very open, 15 to 20% of the heat can fly out into the chimney, and if the combustion door is open while the fuel is burning, then all 40%.

The wood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Damp firewood produces less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in it, a large amount of acidic condensate is formed in the chimney, which intensively destroys brick walls.

In order for the oven to heat up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8–10 cm.

Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that there is a gap of 10 mm between them. There should be a distance of at least 20 mm from the top of the fuel fill to the top of the firebox; it’s even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.

The bulk of the fuel is ignited with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.

After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not escape through the chimney.

When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by yellow fire; if it turns white, the air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; The red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is released into the atmosphere.

Cleaning (including soot removal)

Cleaning and repairing the stove is usually carried out in the summer, but in winter you will need to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and if there is a large amount of it, the furnace will become less efficient.

Ash must be removed from the grate before each fire.

The draft in the furnace, and therefore its operating mode, is regulated by a viewer, a valve and a blower door. Therefore, the condition of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any faults or wear should be repaired or replaced immediately.

Video: how to fold a stove with your own hands

Whatever version of the brick stove you choose, it will only work effectively in a well-insulated house. Otherwise there will be no friendship between them.

As a rule, small brick kilns are installed. You can easily make such stoves yourself, having first studied the technology of laying stoves.

Choosing a brick oven for your home

First you need to decide on a specific type of oven. To do this, study in detail existing types ovens and choose the most suitable option for yourself:

1. Dutch channel ovens They are small in size and quite simple to construct. The efficiency is not high, about 40%. These ovens operate in slow burning mode.
2. Swedish chamber-channel brick kiln has a higher efficiency compared to Dutch ones. The overall dimensions are also not large, but the design itself is more complex in execution. In addition, all building materials for this furnace must be selected more carefully.
3. Russian stove has the highest efficiency, over 75%, but the laying of such a stove is very complex, and you are unlikely to be able to do it without the help of professionals.
4. Brick heating and cooking stove- a more common and simpler heating option. This stove requires a small amount of building materials, and you can make a simple design yourself.

If this is your first time building a stove, then self-construction choose a Dutch oven or a brick kiln because building Swedish ovens is more difficult and requires some experience in this matter. As for the Russian stove, you should not undertake its construction yourself.

The next step is to determine what size your stove will be and how many rooms it will heat. In a small house, the stove can be placed in the wall between rooms.

The main condition for the placement and construction of the furnace is very simple: direct heating from the walls of the furnace should cover a large number of rooms.

If this is not possible, it is better to use stoves with built-in water heating coils. With this type of stove, the remaining rooms will be heated with special ones.

Brick for laying the furnace

For extended service life and proper operation stoves, you need to carefully select building materials, namely bricks. In addition to strength and durability, its thermophysical properties, which provide warmth in your home, also depend on your choice.

For a Swedish stove it is very important to choose high-quality building materials, but for a Dutch stove the quality requirements are not so high.

Heating brick stoves used to be made of red brick, but today we can distinguish 2 main types:

• red ceramic brick, grade 150;
• Fireclay fire-resistant brick.

• The bricks must be the same size;
• Usage hollow bricks or silicate is strictly prohibited. A solid ceramic brick is required;
• For cladding, choose decorative bricks;
• For the combustion chamber, choose refractory fireclay bricks.

Instructions and drawing for ordering brick kilns

Now let's take a closer look at the masonry itself. All sides of masonry bricks have their own name, and the type of masonry is determined by them. The most common masonry of brick kilns is the butt and spoon masonry. Those. from the front side brick wall we will only be able to see these two sides of the brick. There is also bedding, but it is extremely rare to find it, because... It is not used for bricklaying stoves. When laying, the vertical seams between the bricks should not coincide.

Brickwork ovens start from the first row, constantly checking according to the diagram where the masonry is located. In this work, haste will be a bad help, the main thing is quality. If you are new to construction, it is better to initially lay each row without mortar, checking the drawings. And only after making sure that the entire installation is correct, apply the mortar to the bricks and lay them finally.

The thickness of the seam must be at least 2 mm, but not more than 3 mm, therefore excess clay It's better to clean it right away. In some cases, the thickness of the seam is exactly 5 mm. The brick must be placed immediately on Right place, its further moving and tapping is unacceptable.

Excess clay mixture removed from bricks cannot be reused.

Below are instructions for laying:

Laying a brick stove for your home with your own hands will require a lot of free time. Each brick has its own important. If you approach the issue efficiently and responsibly, the end result will be warmth and comfort in your home.

The comfort of a country house built far from gas supply networks is unthinkable without a stove. In the cold season, it gives us pleasant warmth, relieving the air of dampness.

The market today offers customers all kinds of designs of metal “stove stoves”. Despite this, many summer residents prefer the classic version - heating stove, made of brick. Its advantages are obvious: due to its large weight, it accumulates a lot of heat and releases it for a long time, warming the room well.

The service life of a brick structure significantly exceeds that of a metal one. Minimal costs for materials and simplicity of arrangement attract the attention of home craftsmen to a simple stove for a summer residence.

Our article will help you test yourself as a stove maker. In it we will look at several options for simple wood stoves and give practical recommendations for their laying.

You will be convinced that there is nothing complicated in the drawings of these structures. Having learned to read “orders” - brick layout diagrams, you can build a full-fledged heat-generating device with your own hands.

How to build the simplest brick oven?

First you need to decide what you want to get from your future stove. If you only need to heat the rooms, and use bottled gas or electricity to cook food, then choose an option without a stove and oven. Anyone who loves soft healing warmth chooses the option with a bed.

For regular cooking large quantity products and pet food the simplest oven with hob it will be just right.

We will look at three examples of ovens with step by step guide according to their masonry:

• Simple direct flow;
• With hob;
• Heating.

Let’s say right away that you cannot expect high heat transfer from a simple design devoid of gas circulation. For this reason, such stoves are installed in garages and other small rooms with an area of ​​no more than 16 m2.

We will consider this option so that beginners get the first simple lesson practical masonry.

Direct-flow heating design is designed to heat a small room

Such a stove does not require a strong foundation. Having poured large crushed stone in a layer of 15-20 cm, filled it with cement mortar and leveled the surface, after a couple of days you can begin laying.

Stove dimensions in plan: width 2 bricks (51 cm), depth 2.5 bricks (64 cm). Since there is no blower chamber in it, holes for air intake are drilled directly in the combustion door.

The sixth row covers the combustion chamber door. The top view helps to better understand the brick laying method.

The procedures for this design are simple. The main condition during work is to ensure that the seams are bandaged so that the top brick covers the seam between the two lower ones.

On the eighth row, the firebox is narrowed, using halves and “three-quarters” - ¾ of a whole brick. The exit from the firebox is thus obtained with a cross-section of 1 brick (125x250 mm).

The next row (ninth) is laid out in the same way as the seventh, using a whole brick.

After this, the brick tier is placed on the edge flush with the inner edge of the bottom row. The new tier is laid flat, using two whole bricks and four “three-quarters”. In this way, the smoke channel is again narrowed in order to trap gases and increase heat transfer.

On the next tier, the stones are placed on edge. A brick is placed in the middle of the smoke channel. In this way, the oven is raised another five rows (one tier on an edge and a brick in the middle, the other tier flat).

The remaining four tiers are laid flat. With the last two rows of masonry, the smoke channel is narrowed to a size of 12x12 cm (half a brick). At this level, a smoke damper is placed in the furnace. A steel pipe is inserted into it from above.

Oven with hob

In the very simple version This design has small dimensions (width 2 and depth 3 bricks - 78x53 cm). However, even at this limited area You can place a single-burner stove.

The work goes smoothly when everything you need is at hand.

So buy in advance following materials and accessories:

• Solid red brick – 107 pcs;
• Blower door – 1 piece;
• Grate – 1 piece;
• Single-burner cast iron stove – 1 piece;
• Fire door – 1 piece;
• Pipe valve – 1 pc.

Fire bricks are not needed for a wood burning stove. Buying it is a waste of money. But red should be chosen carefully, discarding cracked and uneven ones.

Preparation of the solution

The masonry mixture is made by mixing four parts clay with one part water and adding eight parts sifted sand. The normal consistency is determined simply: the solution easily slides off the trowel, leaving no drips on it. When laying, it should not leak out of the seams.

The volume of the mortar is determined based on the amount of brick. With an optimal seam thickness (3-5 mm), one bucket is enough for 50 pieces.

Having prepared the masonry mixture, you can begin laying the foundation. Its width is made 10 cm larger than the width of the oven. The height of the foundation is selected so that the bottom of the first row of bricks is at floor level.

An approximate prototype of a stove

If the underground is deep enough (50-60 cm), then there is no need to dig a hole for the foundation. It is enough to make formwork on the ground with a plan size of 76 x (51 + 10 cm). Two layers of roofing felt are placed on its bottom to protect it from moisture. Having laid the concrete, it is given a week to gain strength, after which they begin laying.

The dimensions of the stove with hob we are considering are 3 x 1.5 bricks (76x39 cm).

Expert advice: lay out each new tier of brick without mortar (dry). After adjusting the bricks to size, you can begin laying.

The first row is placed on a layer of clay mortar (4-5 mm). Having leveled the base, lay out the second one, leaving space for the blower door.

Before installing the door, you need to screw a soft wire to it and put its ends into the seams for better fixation.

The frame of the cast iron door has four holes for wire, which is used for fixing in the masonry

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal, a gap is left between the door and the brick. Before installation, its frame is wrapped with wet asbestos cord.

The third row is laid by overlapping the seams of the second. At this level, a grate is installed in the firebox.

Order scheme from 1st to 8th row

The fourth row is placed on the edge, observing the ligation of the seams, and the walls of the combustion chamber are formed. Behind it will be the first and only smoke circulation (see section A-A in diagram No. 2). To clean its bottom, a so-called knockout brick is placed in the rear wall without mortar, which is periodically removed to remove ash. Inside the chimney, two stands are made from pieces of brick to support the internal partition.

The stones of the fifth row are placed flat, leaving space for the firebox door. In the back of the stove, in order, we see the walls of two smoke channels. During work, their surface must be thoroughly cleaned with a wet cloth to remove any clay protruding from the seams. This important condition to ensure good traction.

Helpful advice! When focusing on the order drawings, do not forget to look at the two sections of the stove. They will help you better imagine its design and not make mistakes when laying out the bricks.

Order scheme from 9th to 11th row

Having raised the masonry up to the eighth row, they close the furnace door, placing wire in the seams to secure its frame. At the same level, in the back of the fuel chamber, a brick with a beveled end is placed - a smoke tooth. It improves thermal efficiency by preventing rapid exhaustion flue gases into the pipe.

Having completed the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid along it on a clay mortar. It is necessary for sealing joints cast iron stove and brick. On the tenth row, the firebox is covered with a hob.

On the eleventh, a smoke valve is installed in the pipe. It is also compacted along the contour with an asbestos cord soaked in clay.

Rows 12 and 13 - formation of the pipe walls. After their completion, a light pipe made of sheet metal, displayed on the roof.

Heating stove

Now let’s see how to build a brick stove with your own hands, designed to heat a small country house.

Approximate prototypes of the considered heating stove option for a country house

Its dimensions:

• width – 2 bricks (51 cm);
• depth - 3.5 bricks (90 cm);
• height – 2 meters 38 cm.

For construction you will need the following materials and accessories:

• Red solid brick – 390 pcs;
• Clay - 9 buckets;
• Sand – 18 buckets;
• Grate (25x40 cm) – 1 piece;
• Fire door (20x30 cm) – 1 piece;
• Blower door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Cleaning door (14x20 cm) – 1 piece;
• Gate valve - 1 piece;
• Pre-furnace steel sheet(50x70 cm) – 1 piece;
• Roofing felt for waterproofing (100x60 cm) – 1 pc.

Sequence of work

The first row is the base of the oven. It should be laid out especially carefully, checking the horizontality using a level.

The corners are the hardest part for beginners. To ensure that they are even, we recommend immediately installing four template posts on the edges of the masonry. They can be made from planed boards, knocking them down in pairs at right angles.

By installing such “formwork” from floor to ceiling, you can easily create ideal angles.

Homemade template for laying corners

On the second row, two bricks with a beveled edge facing into the ash chamber are laid at the end of the furnace. The laying of the third row begins with the installation of a blower door, fixed with wire in the seams of the side bricks.

Order diagram from 1 to 10 and cross sections of the heating furnace

Rows 4 and 5 continue to form the walls of the ash chamber. In the sixth row, they begin laying the walls of the fuel chamber and install a grate in it.

At the level of the 7th and 8th rows, a combustion door is installed. At the back of the chamber, beveled bricks are placed to improve traction. The ninth row covers the firebox door.

From rows 10 to 16, the fuel chamber and vertical smoke exhaust duct are being laid. On the seventeenth, a cleaning door is installed in the oven.

Rows 18-30 form smoke circulation channels. They need to be laid out as evenly as possible, rubbing the inner walls with a wet cloth.

Rows 31-32 form a vault covering the oven.

33 and 34 form the chimney.

Having finished laying, the stove is left for a week with the doors and pipe open to dry. After that they do trial fire, burning small portions of wood chips, branches or straw.

Not a single private home can do without a traditional brick heating and cooking stove. And although many homes today are equipped gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to give up a brick stove, since it provides special warmth - the warmth of a home, filling the home with comfort and a sense of calm. In addition, in regions rich in forests, you can significantly save on natural gas consumption by purchasing firewood.

The desire to remodel a house, including moving a heating and cooking stove, can often come down to the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to build a stove with your own hands in this material.

There are many types of stoves, but not all are used in private construction.

Types of stoves for private homes:

1. Heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
2. Cooking(oven exclusively for cooking);
3. Universal(heating and cooking).

The latter variety is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.

Furnace structure and its properties

After looking at sketches and designs of brick stoves and choosing a specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its external design as to the internal structure. The design of a heating and cooking furnace determines its performance, and ultimately its service life.

The internal design of a heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the device itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in a corner or against a wall.

Basic structural elements heating and cooking furnace:

• Shantsy (heat-air channels);
• Ash pan (or ashpit);
• Grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
• Under (slope to the grate);
• Combustion chamber;
• Burnout (smoke exhaust);
• The furnace vault (separates the combustion zone from the post-burning zone in the combustion chamber);
• Vent (hole through which heat enters the heated room);
• Exterior wall;
• Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber to the chimney);
• Overlap;
• Chimney;
• Indentation (the space between the chimney and the stove);
• Smoke valves;
• Heat-dissipating walls.

The heat output of a stove is determined by the amount of thermal energy released by the stove per hour and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to retain heat from burned fuel) is measured in hours. Various ovens have different levels of heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.

The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.

Russian stove and its structure

A Russian brick stove is installed on a foundation, since its structure is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a podpechok, used to store fuel, which dries in it and easily flares up when the stove is lit. The baking area is closed with a vault-trough, onto which a bedding made of clay mortar is poured. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.

The Russian stove has a special design that differs significantly from the traditional heating and cooking stove in terms of heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short period, a Russian stove accumulates heat and is capable of releasing it for 24 hours.

To ensure that the Russian stove does not consume excessive amounts of fuel, does not smoke and does not cool down in a matter of hours, when constructing it, it is important to follow the exact masonry technology and dimensions included in the diagram. Bricks forming internal organization ovens are trimmed and polished so that the walls inside the heil are even and smooth.

Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or bakery and a firebox (furnace). The floor of the furnace has an inclined design, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when constructing a Russian stove.

The crucible is the main secret that Russian cuisine hides. Some dishes need to simmer in the cooking chamber for a long time after cooking. It is not possible to achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for preparing Russian cuisine using a conventional hob or electric oven.

The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is the smoke channel of the simplest design, which is superior in its efficiency to the smoke channel devices of other stoves.

Making a Russian stove with your own hands (video)

Design selection

The choice of furnace type depends on its operating conditions:

1. Heating and cooking stove. If you plan to use the stove intensively in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the construction of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first heated, then heat transfer begins.
2. Heating stove. For a house in the mountains or a summer house, where permanent residence not planned, a fireplace will suffice. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up a room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up during the cold season.

A brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. Most lightweight design assembled into a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on its edge). In order to give it strength, a frame made of metal corners. A massive furnace requires a foundation, which should not be connected to the support of the building. In the case of a separate chimney, it also requires its own foundation.

Deciding on size and power

The heat transfer level of the heating and cooking furnace must exactly meet the possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and ceilings.

The size and design of the future furnace is determined by its power.

Furnace structure. Where to begin?

The laying of any stove cannot be started without a project or drawing, which must include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the outlet of the chimney without disturbing the load-bearing elements of the building. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The diagram or design of the future furnace is drawn up on the basis of this calculation.

It is quite difficult to independently create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.

Tools and materials

When the furnace design is approved, you can prepare for its laying.

To fold the stove with your own hands, you need to have on hand:

• Stovemaker's hammer (trowel);
• Master OK;
• Construction level and plumb lines;
• Measuring tape;
• Cement-sand mortar;
• Hand-held power tools (hammer, grinder, etc.);
• Red brick;
• Fireproof brick (burnt);
• Facing brick;
• Mortar for masonry made of clay and sand;
• Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
• Stove fittings and appliances.

Laying a stove with your own hands. All stages

Like any construction process, laying a stove with your own hands is done in stages.

Scheme this process includes the following items:

• Construction of the foundation. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a broken brick. A foundation is not used for all stove structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive stove, you cannot do without its construction.

In no case should the support of the future furnace come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and if they are misaligned, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is a fire hazard.

The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed dimensions oven at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with baked brick masonry in two rows on cement mortar to floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the design of the entire furnace will depend on it. Next comes a layer of waterproofing, for which you can use ordinary roofing felt or roofing felt; the material is laid in two layers.

• Furnace laying. The first row is laid on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to the future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next to the place corner brick the mortar is laid and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air is released. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and placed correctly on the mortar, tapping it with a trowel to level it. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.

What is comfort in the home? This is when it is warm in winter and cool in summer, walking on a floor covering that is pleasant to the touch, not freezing, comfortable furniture and a cozy bed for you and your children. Children fall asleep faster and get a better night's sleep when it is warm and comfortable to sleep on soft, children's mattresses https://mebelsait.dp.ua/detskie-matrasy.

When you think about building own home, there is a desire to make it warm and cozy. Modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc., but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That is why stove heating is in active use again.

The stove is a highlight of the design and an economical heating device. It is much easier to find an experienced stove maker to lay a stove. But this long-forgotten craft has only just begun to gain popularity, and there are very few experienced stove makers. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: “How to build a brick oven with your own hands?”

Laying out a stove correctly requires a lot of effort, and you will also have to study a lot of instructions for laying brick stoves.

Types of stoves

The first step is to choose a stove that is right for you. The most popular are:

• Dutch;
• Russian;
• Swede.

Dutch

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent it from giving off accumulated heat well.

Russian stove

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size is justified by the presence of free space where you can relax. There is a firebox under the bed where you can cook food. Next to the firebox there is a stove, and just below there is a vent that keeps the fire going. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily heat a room larger than 40 square meters. But a full-fledged robot will require a lot of raw materials.

Swede

Refer to compact options. Length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusual thing about such a stove is that the stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest will be in another part of the house.

This design is fire hazardous. But the risk of fire is reduced with the help of dampers.

Construction rules

A homemade stove must meet fire safety requirements. Therefore, you need to pay Special attention preparation for construction.

• Decide on the location of the stove.
• Prepare the correct drawing.
• Buy quality materials for construction.
• Purchase of tools.
• Create a cost estimate.

Correctly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help you avoid many mistakes. Ready plans can be found on the Internet.

When choosing an installation location, you need to take into account the area of ​​the room and the type of oven. It’s difficult to calculate everything yourself, so it’s easier to use a reduced model of a brick oven, a photo of which is available on the Internet.

Selection of working tools

When laying a furnace, measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used:

• Jointing - pours the mortar into the seams and gives the joints an aesthetic appearance. It will come in handy if the stove is left without lining or plaster.
• Trowel.
• Hammer-pick.
• Shovel for mortar.
• Plumb.
• Stove line.

Materials

The heat transfer and durability of the stove will depend on the material used in construction. Therefore this stage is very important.

For cladding, ceramic bricks are used - grade M-500. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber needs to be laid out only from refractory bricks.

In addition to bricks, the following is used:

• Sifted sand.
• Clay – normal fat content.

Foundation for the stove

The basis for homemade stove done at the time of construction, since a brick oven requires a strong foundation

First, they dig a hole. It is necessary to take into account that the width and length of the pit must exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm

Afterwards, the pit is leveled and half filled with sifted sand, compacted well and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is installed. Everything else free space pour concrete mortar, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontalness using a building level.

After 5-6 days the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is dismantled, waterproofing is laid and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:

• lay out of brick;
• re-build the formwork, filling it with concrete up to the beginning of the floor. All voids are covered with sand, compacting it.

Concrete mortar recipe - one part cement contains 2.5 parts sand and four parts gravel.

Masonry process

The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. The clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sifted through a sieve.

First, the outer layer, which consists of bricks, is assembled, and then the middle. There should be no voids in the seams, so fill them with a clay mixture.

The first rows are built using solid bricks. The first row of stitches requires dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.

The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used when constructing smoke ducts. The chimney is built from red burnt brick. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a “lock” layout.

Photos of brick stoves