Which heads of garlic to leave for planting. Basic tricks of planting garlic for the winter to get a big harvest Which garlic to choose for planting

It's not that difficult to grow large garlic in own garden. To do this, it is enough to know some secrets of growing large heads of garlic in the garden, which will help you get a large harvest.

winter, planted in garden beds in autumn;
spring - for spring planting.

There are also 2 large groups: shooters and non-shooters. In the first, instead of seeds, small single-toothed bulbs are formed - bulbs, often used for planting. Mostly arrows produce winter crops, but sometimes this feature is also found in spring plants.

You can grow large garlic from winter varieties. However, such a harvest does not last long - by the end of winter the vegetable begins to deteriorate.

In summer garlic, the bulbs of which rarely turn out big size, the shelf life can reach two years.

Which variety to give preference to, everyone decides depending on their needs: for sale they plant winter varieties, but for long-term use - spring ones.

Landing dates

Planting dates depend on the variety:

winter garlic planted at the end of September – mid-October, so that before the onset of frost it has time to take root, but does not germinate to the surface. Only in this case will he be able to calmly endure the cold and produce a large harvest;
The summer variety begins to be grown after the snow melts in early to mid-April. It tolerates cold and can germinate even at a soil temperature of 6 °C. Good garlic can be obtained with early boarding. It should be taken into account that the head must form before the onset of hot weather, otherwise the bulbs of spring varieties will not be large.

Garlic must be planted and grown properly to produce large heads.

Growing large garlic in the garden

Garlic is a light-loving crop that does not tolerate wetlands.. Without knowing how to grow it correctly, it is difficult to achieve good results.

Several factors influencing the size of the future harvest:

Choosing a place: it should be open so that nothing blocks the sun necessary for the sprouts.
Bed dimensions: they should be wide enough (75 cm) for easier processing and high (8 cm) to prevent water accumulation.
Planting scheme: make fairly wide row spacing (20 cm) and a slightly smaller distance between planted cloves in a row (10 cm), so that in the future it will be convenient to care for the crop. Distribute tightly planting material– garlic – should not be used, since the forced struggle for space and resources will not allow it to gain the required weight.

Preparing the bed

One of the secrets to getting a good harvest is preparing beds for future plants. For winter crops, the site is carefully dug up 2-3 weeks before planting so that the soil has time to settle. If this is not done, then gradually, as the soil moves, the garlic cloves will become buried. This will negatively affect the size of the harvest and its shelf life.

For spring planting, the bed is also prepared in the fall so that the introduced elements have time to transform into a form digestible for sprouts. The soil is dug up to the depth of a shovel and fertilized if necessary. It is important to loosen the soil well so that there is enough oxygen in it. After digging, the area is leveled and disinfected with a manganese solution. Then cover with film and leave until planting.

Fertilizers need to be applied if the soil quality is not optimal for the crop. The soil should be:

neutral;
sandy loam;
loose.

Reduce soil acidity by liming (a glass of lime per 1 m2). Loosen the structure with peat, sawdust and sand. They increase fertility by adding fertilizers: 5–6 kg of humus per 1 m2, for the same area - 1 liter of manure and ash. Organics are replaced with complex ones mineral fertilizers in an amount of 30–40 g per 1 m2.

It is important that the soil in the garlic bed is fertile, air- and moisture-permeable.

Preparation of planting material

The secrets of growing large garlic include preparing the heads for planting. There is a possibility of confusing the tines of winter varieties with spring ones. It's easy to distinguish them:

the first are characterized by the presence of a central rod around which an even number of lobules are distributed: 4, 6, 8;
in the second, the number of teeth can be different, they often differ in shape, and there is no rod in the center.

To increase the immunity of future plants, the following points must be observed when preparing seed:

Discard all damaged, rotten and moldy heads.
Fused, small teeth and a small number of them (2–3) indicate the degeneration of the variety and low yield. Therefore, for planting it is better to take bulbs with large slices.
Before planting, disinfect the heads by immersing them in a solution copper sulfate(1%) or potassium permanganate (1%) for 20–30 minutes. For the same purpose, the following solution is used: 0.3 kg of wood ash is mixed with water (2 liters), boiled, cooled, the light part is separated, into which the planting material is immersed for an hour.

Special preparation requirements for the spring variety:

a month before planting, the heads are sent to a cool place (-3 - +2 ° C);
within 24 hours, the seed material is removed and disinfected;
soak for 12 hours in a growth stimulator (potassium humate or Epine).

To speed up growth, spring varieties are germinated. To do this, the teeth are placed in a moistened fabric bag, which is wrapped in polyethylene for two days.

How to plant garlic

In order for garlic to grow large, certain rules must be followed when planting it.

Features of spring planting:

water only dry soil; garlic cloves are planted in wet soil without watering;
planting depth – 3 cm;
mulch with peat until sprouts appear.

Autumn planting rules:

planting is done on time: the cloves should take root, but not sprout;
To prevent the bulb from rotting, sand or ash is poured into the grooves, and the beds are not spilled;
Garlic should be planted to a depth of 5 cm (the larger the clove, the deeper) to reduce the risk of freezing;
after all necessary measures have been taken, the soil is leveled and mulched with peat or rotted sawdust in a layer of at least 3 cm;
In winter, the top is covered with leaves or spruce branches (before snow falls), and during the melting period the shelter is dismantled.

Secrets of large garlic

Compliance certain rules growing crops will help increase productivity. Garlic grown in open ground will be large if:

plant it on time;
choose the right variety;
be sure to update planting material once every 3 years, growing from bulbs;
In bolting species, pinch off the arrows at the right time;
in spring varieties, tie leaves to stimulate the outflow of nutrients from the foliage to the head;
produce proper care for garlic (watering, fertilizing, mulching).

Compliance with crop rotation

the best predecessors for garlic in the country are green manure (alfalfa, clover, oats, mustard), strawberries, pumpkin, cucumbers, peas, zucchini, cabbage;
won't be able to get high yield after nightshade crops (tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants) and root vegetables (beets, radishes, onions, garlic): in this case, the likelihood of plant disease increases, as well as a decrease in the size of the heads.

If you plant the crop next to tomatoes or peppers, the harvest will be larger.

You should not sow a garden bed for several years in a row with the same crop, so as not to reduce the yield. Large garlic will only be produced if the planting location is changed annually.

Caring for garlic beds

Caring for growing garlic after planting involves mulching the soil. It allows:

maintain moisture;
reduce the amount of watering;
exclude weeding and loosening.

After the shoots grow to 20 cm in length, they are shortened to 5 cm: they can be cut off with a sharp tool or broken off, leaving a stump of the required length. The main thing is to remove top part- the rudiment of the future inflorescence. This will increase the supply of nutrients to the bulb.

20–30 days before harvesting (winter varieties - until mid-July, spring varieties - in the first week of August), the soil is raked away from the heads. This is done to redirect some of the nutrition to the bulb and thereby increase its size. The soil is removed special device so that the cloves are halfway out of the soil.

Watering

Since garlic is a moisture-loving plant, it grows well in moist soil. That's why important point In crop care, proper watering is important.

The basic rules are as follows:

Most of all, the vegetable needs moisture in the spring, when the root system is actively forming (the first 3 weeks after planting): during this period it needs to be watered abundantly (15 liters per 1 m2) every 5–7 days;
the volume and frequency of watering depend on the weather: at moderate temperatures, 10–12 liters are used per 1 m2 with a break of 1–1.5 weeks; in hot weather, 15 liters are poured over the same area with an interval of 5–6 days; and on rainy days, moisturizing soils stop;
after the procedure, it is necessary to sprinkle the bare heads with earth;
It is advisable to use warm water that has been left in the sun for some time.

In no case should waterlogging be allowed, as in such an environment they develop fungal diseases and the bulbs spoil.

Feeding

If you feed the plants in time, you can grow garlic with large heads. The winter variety is watered with urea in the spring after the snow melts and then fertilized as needed. Poor soils are enriched with nutrients 1–2 times a month until the end of the growing season.

When growing spring garlic, fertilizing is applied twice:

The first fertilizing is done in early spring with a solution bird droppings(1 kg per bucket of water) or mullein (in the same amount per 8 liters of water).
In mid-summer, water with a solution of ash (a glass in a bucket of water).

The gardener must follow one important principle: the amount of fertilizer applied should be in moderation. Excess organic matter contributes to yellowing of the foliage and cessation of bulb growth. A large number of minerals will negatively affect their taste and quality.

Diseases and pests

A number of pests and diseases can ruin the enjoyment of growing a crop. Garlic is attacked by nematodes, mole crickets, centipedes, onion moths and other insects.

Help save plants from pests traditional methods:

spraying twice a month with infusion of tobacco (0.25 kg) and ground pepper (2 tsp): pour 3 liters of hot water, leave for three days, then strain, dilute with water to 10 liters, stir liquid soap(2 tbsp.);
pollination with a mixture of pepper, tobacco and wood ash 2 times a month.

The plant is susceptible to the following diseases:

bottom rot (the bulb rots, the roots die, the foliage turns yellow);
false powdery mildew(the process of head maturation stops);
white rot (dies off) aboveground part plants and bulbs rot);
bacterial rot(teeth spoil).

To prevent the development of diseases, before planting, the seed is treated with a solution of ash, copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

Harvest and storage

Winter varieties ripen in early August. When the lower leaves turn yellow, begin harvesting. You cannot delay this, otherwise the heads will begin to dry out and crumble. This product may have a reduced shelf life.

Spring varieties are harvested at the end of summer - beginning of autumn, when the feathers turn yellow and begin to lie down, and the bulbs are already formed.

After collection, the plants are dried for 1.5 weeks, shaking off the soil. Next, cut off the roots and part of the stem, leaving the stem 5 cm long for winter crops and 2 cm long for spring crops. seed material The largest specimens are selected.

Storage conditions are as follows:

temperature: 16–20 °C for spring varieties, 2–4 °C for winter varieties;
humidity: average.

Features of growing garlic from bulbs

Garlic is considered a perennial (three-year) crop, but is often used as an annual, which is why it gradually degenerates. To avoid this, you need to regularly update the seed.

When planting winter bulbs, leave a few arrows on the sprouts grown from large cloves. Seeds are formed on them - single-toothed ones. When it is time to harvest, the plant is tied into a bundle and hung to dry. During this period, plastic substances flow to the bulbs from the green mass of the plant, promoting growth. After the stems have completely dried, they are carefully separated.

Bulbs are planted both in spring and autumn in pre-prepared soil. They are buried 3 cm, as they are very small. Dig out when the leaves begin to turn yellow. Then they dry it: first for a couple of days in the sun, then under a canopy. One-toothed trees planted in the fall will yield a good harvest with proper care.

Garlic heads split into individual cloves are usually used as planting material. But which ones are better? Ideally - varietal ones.
However, not everyone even knows that more than 20 wonderful productive varieties winter garlic. IN last years Scientists have developed such wonderful varieties as Nazus, Komissar, Vyatsky, Amethyst, Garnet, Granite, Onyx, Opal, Petrovsky. Moreover, the list of varieties is constantly updated.
They are sold in the same gardening stores where we usually buy seeds vegetable crops. The only difference is that until now, varietal planting garlic remains, oddly enough, in short supply, which is why it is more difficult to purchase than radishes or other seeds.
It is quite possible to select “nameless” local garlic for planting. But it’s better - with the help of experts in this culture among your neighbors and in the nearest markets.
It is not difficult to accurately choose high-quality planting garlic for your garden based on external signs. I do not advise using the one that is of southern, and especially foreign origin - in our conditions it is low-yielding and often freezes out. The latter is mainly brought to us from China. Chinese garlic is easily distinguished by the snow-white color of its scales. And the one brought from the Caucasus is both violet-blue-pink, but usually larger than the local one, noticeably less spicy in taste, and more suitable for planting and for use in salads and any main courses.
When it comes to planting local garlic, it is more profitable to use the one that has a stable yield. In addition, the most important and mandatory requirements to boarding material - complete absence of diseases and pests. Both are also indicated by external signs: healthy - without spots (of any color), rotten segments or cracks. And examine the bottom especially carefully: the smallest tears indicate the presence dangerous pest- garlic mite. Such a “load” is extremely undesirable!
And also pay attention when choosing garlic for planting: all the scales must be completely preserved on the cloves! Bare - not protected from rot, wireworm larvae and other pests living in the soil.
Significantly increases the future yield of special garlic preliminary preparation planting material, when the heads, divided into cloves, are soaked at room temperature for 24 hours in a weak solution (the color of sleeping tea) of a humic preparation (Rostock). If you don’t find such “delicacies”, soak your garlic in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or in an ash extract (first boil 2 cups of wood ash for half an hour in 3 liters of water), where it is useful to add juice squeezed from 3-5 leaves of medicinal house plants - aloe or kalanchoe.

Garlic is divided into winter and spring. Each has pros and cons. Winter crops produce a large harvest, but are poorly stored. Spring yields a smaller harvest, but lasts until next year.

Plant species

How to distinguish spring from winter by appearance? A hard rod sticks out from the middle of the winter crop bulb - the remnant of the arrow. The spring one does not have such a rod, so it does not shoot. The teeth of the winter onion are large and form one layer. The denticles of the spring onion are small and can be arranged in two or more layers. And the main difference is different terms landings. Spring crops are planted in spring, and winter crops in autumn. And now about the main thing – the landing rules.

Video about growing garlic

The technology for growing garlic is constantly being improved. This is how several planting methods appeared, which we will now tell you about.

Method No. 1 - traditional

Space is allocated for the crop from early harvested plants: cucumbers, early cabbage, radishes, legumes. The site should not be located in a low-lying area and should not be flooded with meltwater in the spring - the teeth will rot and die. The soil is fertilized: humus or rotted manure is added, dug up with a shovel and furrows are made every 25 cm. Unpeeled cloves are planted every 10-12 cm. The plantings are covered, watered and mulched.

Photo of planting winter garlic

Method number 2 - double landing

Double planting of garlic is relevant for small areas. The main secret is that garlic is planted in 2 levels (tiers). This is done in the fall or at the end of August. The first row is located below, the second - above. We dig a groove deeper and lay out the first level of cloves at a depth of 11-12 cm. Some will say deep. Do not worry. They will feel great there.

We fill it with earth and lay out the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. Make a distance of 10-15 cm between the cloves, and 25 cm between the grooves. Sprinkle with earth. It turns out one clove on top of the other. No one bothers anyone, there is enough for everyone.

Method No. 3 - sowing

You can also not stick the cloves into the ground, but sow them, that is, lay them out on a barrel or simply throw them in rows. The only thing that might confuse you is the garlic head lying on its side and the crooked neck. But this does not affect the quality of the product, taste and size of the onion.

The photo shows garlic sowing

The teeth were planted and mulched. In the spring they immediately begin to grow. The tooth that turned out to be lower is more favorable conditions. He's deeper and he's warmer there. He has developed better root system. And the one that is higher warms up faster in the spring.

When to harvest garlic? The bulbs are removed when the arrow bursts. Why then break out the arrows? If you leave them, the garlic heads will grow less. The arrow takes up the food, as bulbs form on it, but it’s worth leaving a few. Garlic arrows will show you when it is ready to harvest. The arrows are broken off not when they have just emerged from the stem, but when they have made a circle.

When to plant garlic?

Every autumn this question arises for all gardeners. And here, as they say, how many people, so many opinions. Some people prefer to plant the bulb 2-3 weeks before the soil freezes. The tooth has time to take root and readily begins to grow in the spring. But early August and September planting is considered incorrect, since the tips of the plant’s feathers begin to turn yellow early. We will not convince you of the correctness or incorrectness of a particular method. We will tell you about the interesting experience we have done.

We planted garlic on three dates: August 20, September 20 and October 20. The best harvest was produced by August planting. He overwintered best. If you think about it, it immediately becomes clear why this is so. We planted it early, it managed to take root well, gained strength and immediately began to grow in the spring. And the worst harvest was from the October planting. It didn’t really take root, didn’t overwinter well and grew little.

If the plant managed to sprout from the August and September planting, then nothing bad happened. That's how it should be. To check whether August planting is effective, plant some of the cloves early, and some when it seems right to you, and then compare the results.

You may ask why sprouted garlic does not freeze? When it produced roots, the composition of the cell sap changed and it contained more sugar. Try freezing the syrup. The syrup won't freeze, but the water will. That is, after germination it goes into another state, simply “falls asleep” for the winter.

Feeding

Feeding garlic in the summer closer to harvest is already useless. If you are going to feed him, then you need to do this in May - June. Then, from the feather, it gains the weight of the bulb itself. When he wakes up, he needs it. As a top dressing, take an infusion of vermicompost or horse manure. It is advisable to mulch the plantings with humus or straw cut into pieces.

The row spacing is sprinkled with ash to prevent pests. Mulching helps retain soil moisture and protects the bulbs from overheating. You don't have to mulch the garlic. Cultivation and care then consist of fertilizing, regular loosening, weed removal and watering.

Another rule: choose the largest cloves for planting. Let's plant small - small bulbs and get it. If the tops turn yellow, this indicates damage to the root system. Causes: root gnawing by pests or the action of soil rot.

If the plantings are mulched, there is no need to water them. Under normal weather conditions, rain moisture is sufficient. After all, the clove has already grown roots, will draw moisture from the soil itself, and form a good bulb.

Also prefers fertile soil. If necessary, humus or rotted manure is added to the soil in an amount of 3-5 kg/m2. The teeth are planted in rows at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. A distance of 25-28 cm is maintained between the rows. The approximate depth of planting garlic cloves is 3 cm. We will describe two methods.

Method No. 1 - traditional

Spring crops are planted in early spring April 15-25. Before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and sorted by size. It is advisable to plant slices of each size in separate grooves. Care consists of regularly loosening the rows, watering and removing weeds. If the plantings are mulched, as mentioned above, there is no need for watering.

Method No. 2 – with sprouted teeth

Garlic heads are stored all winter at a temperature of 20 0 C. At the end of March, the bulbs are disassembled into slices and soaked for 3 hours in water room temperature, taken to the cellar, where they are laid out in one layer and covered with rags or film. When the roots grow 2-5 cm long, the cloves are planted in moist soil.

Photo of planting garlic

Spring plants are fed in the same way as winter plants, with an infusion of mullein, vermicompost or horse manure. Of the inorganic fertilizers, urea is used at the rate of 1 matchbox per bucket of water when seedlings appear, then after 10 days and a third time at the end of June. To prevent pests, ash is scattered between the rows.

Spring bulbs are harvested when the feathers of the lower tier of the plant dry out massively in the third ten days of August - the first ten days of September. The bulbs selected from the soil are laid out in one row to dry under a canopy. The tops must be completely dry. Do not rush to cut off the green shoots of garlic, as the bulb receives nutrition from them and continues to grow during drying. Dry tops are cut off, leaving 5 cm.

Garlic tends to degenerate, just like potatoes. When propagating by cloves, diseases gradually accumulate in the crop and the yield decreases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time the garlic is renewed from bulbs (balloons). In the first year, the balloons produce one-toothed ones. In the second year, full-fledged bulbs grow from them. The garlic turns out healthy and there is no need to run around looking for planting material, especially since it is quite expensive.

Garlic in the photo

Bulbs are taken from plants from which the shoot was left. When the inflorescence bursts and the bulbs turn the color characteristic of this variety, the inflorescences are broken off and placed in a dry place to ripen. For planting, take bulbs with a diameter of 4-5 mm.

Method No. 1 - traditional

Bulbs are sown in the first days of October. Humus of 3-4 kg per 1 m2 is added to the soil and dug up. Make rows up to 4 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The rows are watered, air balloons are laid out every 3 cm and sprinkled with earth. In spring and summer, caring for crops is the same as for ordinary garlic. By the beginning of August, one-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, which are dug up when the tops turn yellow. They are dried and used for autumn planting for a full bulb.

Method No. 2 - direct

In the first year from balloons traditional method grow monotooths. In August, the one-toothed ones are not dug up, but are left in the soil for the winter. Next spring The plants are carefully thinned out, thus increasing the distance between the remaining bulbs. By the end of May, the distance between the rows should be 25 cm, and between the single-claws in the row - 10-12 cm.

Video about growing garlic and caring for it

Method No. 3 - growing through winter

In the first half of June, bulblets are sown. Before this, they are stored unthreshed in the refrigerator. By the second ten days of September, the plants already have 4-5 leaves, a good root system and a thick stem as thick as a pencil. In October, winter plants harden and winter well. On next year from them full-fledged bulbs develop.

We shared with you all the secrets that we used ourselves. Now you know how to grow garlic. It's up to you. Choose the method you like, or better yet several, so you can compare the results later and grow a huge harvest, to your delight and to the envy of your neighbors.

The garlic harvest is obtained by planting with cloves, aerial bulbs, single cloves, planting before winter or in early spring. An unpretentious, valuable vegetable grows in any region, and to get marketable heads densely filled with cloves, just follow simple recommendations.

Pre-planting treatment of garlic

An important role in successful cultivation garlic plays a role in the quality of planting material and its correct processing from diseases and pests.

Only healthy teeth, bulbs and single teeth are suitable for planting - without damage:

pink-red spots of fusarium,
fluffy coating of mycelium at the bottom,
insect-eaten areas,
brown dust on the scales due to mite infestation.

Small, overdried, sprouted, rotten onions are discarded. It is worth remembering that large teeth grow best heads garlic The same applies to bulbs, which should not be less than 0.3 cm in diameter.

Immediately before planting, planting material is disinfected by soaking it for 1.5–2 hours in a 40% formaldehyde solution, after which the dried cloves and bulbs are dusted with foundationazole, and if there is a risk of root mite infection, with colloidal sulfur powder.

An effective way to treat garlic against fungal infections, mites and thrips is to warm the cloves and bulbs before planting in hot water(50°C) for 15 minutes or in dryers at 40–42°C for 8–10 hours.

Landing Features

Garlic grows well on fertile, moderately moistened, light loams and sandstones. It is undesirable to allocate saline and overly acidic soils or areas with stagnant melt water for garden beds.

Depending on the timing of planting, in garlic culture there are two large groups:

spring (long-term), planted in spring,
winter (fruitful), which is planted in late autumn.

Garlic is returned to its original place no earlier than after 3–4 years, and if the bottom is infected with rot, after 6–7 years.

Advice. If plants have been infected with fungal infections in the area, treat the soil with a 3% solution of copper sulfate: for spring planting - as soon as the snow melts, and for winter planting- immediately after clearing the area of plant remains of the previous crop.

How to plant spring garlic

They are predominantly non-shooting and do not form aerial bulbs, so the planting material for these varieties is cloves.

In the spring, one-toothed garlic is also planted - a set obtained last season from sowing aerial bulbs of bolting forms of garlic. This planting material is considered elite, gives better harvests and is valued above all else.

Stages of work at spring planting the following:

Before plowing the plot in the fall, humus or compost is added in a volume of 4–6 kg per 1 sq. m. m, as well as 5 g of superphosphate and 3 g of potassium salt.
Garlic is more cold-resistant than onions, the roots grow already at a temperature of 1–2°C, and the planting period of this resistant crop is correlated with the beginning field work, timing may vary from year to year in each region.
Both cloves and single cloves are planted according to a pattern of 6–8 × 40–45 cm. Wide row spacing will simplify soil cultivation and enable plants to form high-quality heads.
Before planting, the area is marked by cutting rows with the required distances, and then the cloves are planted to a depth of 4–5 cm.

How to plant garlic before winter (winter)

They form larger commercial heads and show better yields than spring garlic, but at the same time they are more demanding on agricultural technology.

During winter planting act like this:

Carefully remove weeds and carry out deep plowing of the area - up to 25–27 cm, best predecessors– cucumbers or early cabbage, under which were previously entered organic fertilizers, in this case, additional filling of the soil is not carried out.
If fertilizers were not applied to previous crops, 30–45 days before planting, humus is scattered over the site in a volume of 3–5 kg/sq. m, pre-mixed with wood ash in the proportion of one glass of ash per bucket of humus.
The cloves are planted 25–30 days before the soil freezes so that rooted plants do not push the sprouts to the surface. For middle zone this period falls on September 20 – October 5, optimal timing for southern regions ‒ October 10–20.
The layout of the beds is the same as for spring varieties in the spring. Optimal depth planting of cloves is 6–8 cm from the bottom to the soil surface.
Immediately after planting, the area is mulched with peat crumbs, humus or compost with a layer of 5–10 cm. In the spring, as soon as the weather permits, the mulch is removed, making access easier sunlight to the sprouts.

Advice. If the cloves are planted early and the plants with leaves disappear before winter in order to preserve the root collar, with the onset of frosty weather the beds are covered with humus, peat chips or soil to a height of 6–8 cm. In the spring, the area is harrowed across the rows, removing excess soil.

To obtain an abundance of high-quality garlic planting material without wasting valuable cloves of marketable heads, propagation of bolting varieties by aerial bulbs is used.

Planting garlic with bulbs (aerial bulbs) is beneficial because:

eliminates the need for labor-intensive disassembly of heads into teeth;
facilitates the planting process, allows the use of seeders;
plants from seedlings are more viable and productive;
When an area is infected with a root nematode, using bulblets, you can obtain healthy planting material and preserve the variety.

Sowing bulbs carried out in three ways:

biennial culture with transplantation,
two-year culture without transplantation,
an annual winter crop that is successful only in the southern regions.

At two-year cultivation garlic from bulbs, the following stages of work are performed:

To obtain planting material, the shoots on the mother plants are cut off as soon as the outer wrapper holding the bulbs begins to burst. The arrows are tied into bunches and hung in a cool place to ripen.
The material is calibrated by selecting well-made, dense bulbs with a diameter of 3 mm or more.
Sowing is carried out manually or using seeders to a depth of 2–4 cm, at the same time as winter garlic, in rows with row spacing of 45–50 cm.
After sowing, the beds are mulched with humus or compost with a layer of 8–10 cm.

At direct route The bulblets are sown every 2–3 cm in the row and left to overwinter in the same place, carrying out the usual regular care, and the following autumn large heads with 4–6 cloves are removed; sometimes a large one-toothed bulb can be obtained.

Traditional, but also more labor-intensive method - cultivation with transplantation, in this case, aerial bulbs are sown at distances in a row of 1–1.5 cm, and at the moment of lodging of the leaves, the one-toothed bulbs are dug up, calibrated, kept in a cool room and planted in the fall, at the same time and in the same way as the cloves of winter varieties .

With the constant cultivation of garlic through bulbs, the year-long race in time that traditional planting of cloves gives will become irrelevant in the second year.

Video: planting garlic

Garlic is a must-have crop in the garden; this unique versatile vegetable widely used in cooking and folk medicine, finding application for the entire plant - from young leaves and arrows to succulent cloves.

Careful selection and preparation of planting material, plowing and fertilizing the site, timely correct landing– main components great harvest this healthy aromatic vegetable.

If you haven't planted garlic this fall, now is the time to do so. Moreover, you can plant both winter and spring garlic before winter - it will grow larger and ripen earlier than that planted in the spring. Galina Kizima shares the secrets of planting garlic.

There is winter garlic, which is planted before winter, and there is spring garlic, which is planted in the spring. The difference between winter and spring garlic is that winter garlic contains a future flower arrow in the tooth, which is clearly visible on the cross section of the tooth in the form of a darker circle. Spring garlic does not bolt. It reproduces only by cloves.

Externally, they are easy to distinguish: the spring one has two rows of small teeth, and the winter one has one row, usually of 4–6 large teeth. Winter garlic, accordingly, produces flowers in mid-summer, but the seeds ripen only in the southern regions. But at the end of the arrow, at the end of July, small bulbs form, which are used for propagation of garlic along with cloves.

Spring garlic is propagated only by cloves, since it produces neither seeds nor bulbs. Spring garlic has one advantage over winter garlic: it can be stored well in the winter in an apartment.

Both spring and winter garlic work well only on fertile soil, moisture- and breathable, with an alkaline pH above 7. In addition, they need a sunny location, although they can tolerate slight shading.

Do not try to grow garlic on clay, soils poor in organic matter, or acidic soils, in the shade, on too wet lands.

Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, is not afraid of frost, and sprouts early in the spring, since after planting the garlic root system has time to grow well in the fall.

Winter garlic is propagated vegetatively by planting in open ground cloves in autumn. As a rule, gardeners use their own planting material, but sometimes they buy garlic for planting in stores or from individuals and, flattered by the beautiful appearance heads of garlic, buy southern garlic. After planting, it sprouts almost immediately, overwinters poorly and often rots in the soil during winter thaws or during prolonged autumn rainy weather. In my experience, southern and imported varieties of garlic are unsuitable for growing in North-West region.

If the cloves have no signs of disease, they can be planted immediately. If there are any doubts about diseases, then soak the cloves for half an hour before planting in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" to prevent rot diseases.

Garlic in the North-Western region is planted simultaneously with tulips, in late September - early October to a depth of about 8 cm. If too late landings(end of October in the North-West region) the root system does not have time to grow, and the garlic sticks out of the ground when frost sets in early. But even in this case, if in the spring you bury it again in the soil by about 5 cm, it will produce a harvest, but somewhat later than usual.

For many years I have been planting garlic a little differently. I prepare the bed around mid-August, two weeks before planting. I add compost (a bucket) or peat mixed with sand and ash (a bucket of peat, a third of a bucket of sand, liter jar ash) for every meter of planting. I lightly dig with a Fokin flat cutter to a depth of no more than 7-8 cm. On the eve of planting, I water it well with the Fitosporin solution to disinfect the soil. I do not use potassium permanganate.

Before planting, which I do on August 25-27, I make holes 12-15 cm deep with a special peg. If you want to get larger teeth, make markings of 15×15 cm and even 20×20 cm. But I find that large teeth are inconvenient when using and I prefer to grow garlic, which has medium-sized teeth, so I make markings according to the 10× pattern 10 cm.

In each hole I pour a tablespoon of coarse river sand, I lower one large granule of AVA fertilizer at a time, then I lower a large clove of garlic and again pour a tablespoon of sand into the hole. After this I cover the plantings with soil. Sand introduced into the holes creates micro-drainage around the clove, and then around the growing head of garlic, and therefore relieves it from waterlogging.

With such great depth garlic does not sprout in the fall (with the exception of imported or southern varieties). But even if it sprouts, don’t worry, it will overwinter just fine. Garlic planted in August manages to grow a good root system over the long autumn and sprouts early in the spring. The plants stand like a powerful wall, strong, green and easily cope with any weather conditions. They do not require any feeding throughout the season. This type of garlic ripens a month earlier than the one planted in September-October.

Growing winter garlic

When garlic, planted in any way, has a flower shoot, it should be broken out immediately. No amount of twisting or tying the tops will get rid of the shoots, but it will harm the plant because the leaves stop working normally. In addition, the resulting damage and tears in the tissue become infected, which can lead to garlic disease.

One or two of the strongest plants should be left with an arrow so that the bulbs grow. As soon as the cap on the flower shoot bursts, the plant must be removed from the ground along with the head, shake off the soil from the roots and hang it upside down to dry. Then the bulbs can be removed. They will be needed to improve the health of their planting material.

Growing garlic from bulbs

Over time, garlic degenerates and needs to be renewed. To do this, you can leave a few large shoots of garlic in the summer, and sow the seeds from the ripened bulbs into the ground in the fall. Next year the heads will grow into one clove. We plant them before winter, and in the summer we get a full harvest.

After lower leaves the garlic has turned yellow, you can dig it up, preferably with a pitchfork rather than a shovel. The heads should be shaken off the soil and, tied into loose bunches, hung in the attic or loft to dry. When the nutrients from the leaves are completely transferred to the head, the leaves will dry out.

If at cleaning garlic, if you find mold or rot on it, or anything else suspicious, then clean the heads of excess scales. Immediately cut off the tops and roots, dip the heads in the Fitosporin solution for half an hour and only then dry them by laying them out in one layer in the attic.

You cannot dry onions, garlic or hazel grouse together with tulips, because due to the pungent smell of the bulbs, the tulips will not form a flower bud, and they will not bloom the next year.

How to store garlic at home

The roots of plants need to be cut off, excess husks removed, a braid braided and hung in the kitchen for winter storage. You can cut off the dried tops, leave stumps 2-3 cm high, and hold the bottom of each head over a candle flame to lightly scorch it. This will protect the head from premature loss of moisture. Then put the dried garlic into three-liter jars, tie the hole with a cloth and store it on the windowsills. There is no need to store garlic in the refrigerator - it usually spoils faster.

Sometimes it is recommended to store garlic, separated into individual cloves, in jars, sprinkled with salt. This method does not give anything except unnecessary waste of salt, because the salt takes away all the moisture from the teeth, and they quickly dry out and wrinkle.

Growing spring garlic

Planting spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only the cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ripe for planting. Do not plant in waterlogged soil - the cloves may rot in wet and cold soil. So there is no need to rush, although garlic is cold-resistant and can be planted in the North-West as early as the end of April.

Caring for spring garlic is the same as for winter garlic. They have common pests and diseases with onions.

Spring garlic is dug up later than winter garlic, closer to autumn. But don't leave it in the soil for too long. As soon as the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, dig them up immediately, because the head may crumble into separate teeth in the soil.

You can store spring garlic right on top of the kitchen shelf or cabinet.

I, in contrast to the generally accepted practice of planting spring garlic in the spring, plant it in the fall at the same time as tulips. Then its teeth will be almost the same size as those of winter, and, as expected, in two rows.

Comment on the article "How to plant garlic before winter? Planting garlic: winter and spring"

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