How to make an apron in the kitchen with your own hands: choosing what to make an apron from in the kitchen. Making a kitchen apron from tiles How to lay a tile apron correctly

Tiles are the most popular and stylish material for use in the kitchen. This is the most practical solution for finishing the area above the sink, countertop and stove, since such cladding perfectly protects the walls from dirt, splashes of various liquids, water and grease, and is also resistant to heat. And, besides, it is possible to lay out an apron in the kitchen with your own hands, without outside help.

• View. You can buy any tile, but it is better to avoid flashy materials with bright colors and give preference to soft pastel colors.
• Size. This criterion is not particularly important; you can purchase the tile that you like best. But it is more convenient and faster to lay larger tiles. Most practical material- the one whose edge side is 10 cm. But if you are interested precisely in the aesthetic component, for example, you want to lay out a pattern of tiles, then its size should be smaller.
• Tile surface. Since the main function of tiles in the kitchen is to protect the walls from dirt and grease, you should choose smooth tiles for the backsplash. After all, this one is easier to wash. But the relief surface causes more trouble.
• Stock When purchasing material, do not forget to take tiles in reserve in case they are damaged during cutting. You should also take into account the presence of defects in the form of chips and possible incorrect installation. Therefore, it is customary to take 10% more material.

1. It is better to take high-quality tile adhesive, for example, Ceresit CM11. Despite the fact that it is more expensive than its analogues, the tile will hold really firmly.
2. Use only waterproof grout mixture. Its color scheme should be in harmony with the picture of the entire kitchen. But the fugue is matched to tiles in different ways: these substances can either harmonize with each other or contrast.
3. Primer composition. The use of a primer is not mandatory, but recommended to ensure better adhesion of the adhesive to the wall.
4. Distance crosses, which are required to separate the tiles during installation.

To work you will need the following set of tools: glue graters, spatulas that have smooth and jagged edges, rubber spatulas for grouting, an electric drill, which is needed when mixing adhesive composition, measuring devices, sponges, tile cutter.

• If there is old cladding on the walls, it must be removed. A hammer drill is used for dismantling ceramic tiles, a metal spatula will be needed to remove wallpaper. Next, the surface is cleaned with a metal brush.
• After this, you need to use a chisel or an ax to make shallow notches on the walls. For 1 square meter – approximately 200 pcs. This has a positive effect on the ability of the glue to fix the tiles to the wall.
• The next procedure is to treat the surface with a penetrating primer. It is recommended to apply the primer approximately 2 hours before you begin laying out the apron in the kitchen.

1. In this case, the future location of the furniture and its dimensions should be taken into account.
2. Mark the boundaries of the apron on the surface, top and bottom.
3. The height of the apron should be chosen based on the whole number of tiles, so as not to bother with cutting it.
4. The tiling should be located slightly lower than the edge of the countertop will subsequently be.
5. For ease of installation of tiles along the bottom edge, install wooden plank or guide. The first row of tiles will rest on the structure. This will help ensure that the rows are perfectly horizontal.
6. In addition, you can place the surface with additional lines to make it easier to adjust the location of the tiles.

• First, it is worth mentioning that installation is carried out in the direction from bottom to top. You need to start work from an open corner.
• Take a grater that has teeth and use it to scoop out adhesive solution to cover a section of wall.
• Apply the adhesive to the tiles using the same float and forming grooves. And it can be attached to a surface. Its lower edge should rest on the guide profile.
  First, the tiles are leveled by hand, and then a measuring tool should be used to do this.
• Place the next element. Remember that you must place a spacer cross between it and the previous tile.
• After fastening 8-10 pieces, it is worth wiping the surface to remove any remaining glue.
• Continue this way until the entire planned surface is completely covered, remembering to control the horizontal level and the amount of adhesive on the wall.
• After completing the installation of the apron, you should remove the crosses. Also be sure to clean the seams and wipe down the entire surface.

After a couple of hours, you should definitely wash the apron in the kitchen, first wiping the surface with a hard sponge to remove traces of adhesive and fugue, and then cleaning it with a soft rag. To add shine to the tiles, use dry flannel. That's all!

The presence of a tiled apron in the kitchen is not a sign of the housewife’s whims. An apron is a part of the wall located between wall cabinets and the surface of tables and other objects. kitchen set. This is very effective remedy, protecting walls from drops of grease and splashes of water, from various contaminants and exposure household chemicals. Such an apron in the kitchen frees the housewife from many unnecessary hassle for cleaning the premises. The classic option is a tile backsplash, although it can be made from glass, metal, plastic and other materials.

Tile is a universal material. He is not afraid of moisture, dirt, high temperature. This is optimal finishing material. It is reliable, durable, environmentally friendly. The right tile color can transform a room and decorate it for 10-15 years. How to lay out an apron in the kitchen, what tile to choose for its construction?

Selection of materials

Choosing the right tile is already a significant part of the whole matter.

Tile divided into classes. Class B tiles are ideal for wall cladding in the kitchen. They are highly resistant to various stains, water and chemicals. Ceramic tiles have many color shades. It is released different sizes. You can purchase material in different price categories. It depends on the manufacturers, on the color, on the quality of the coating on the front part of the tile, on its thickness and on a number of other reasons. What and how to put an apron in the kitchen?

The apron is laid out from single-color tiles with inserts of a different color and pattern. Often a backsplash is made of mosaics or tiles, from which certain paintings are laid out. Such stylish design It's not very expensive. And if you do everything yourself, you can save additional amounts. Tile sizes 27x40, 20x20 are more expensive than 15x15 cm. A compromise price option is mosaic.

To keep the apron clean, tiles or mosaics should be regularly wiped with a damp sponge or soft cloth, and washed every month using any cleaning product. Even the heaviest dirt can be easily removed from the surface. This type of finish has practically no disadvantages, except for some nuances when laying tiles.

For cladding, you can choose smooth and textured tiles, with a matte and glossy surface, with or without a pattern. You can decorate the wall with wood and tiles. A tile backsplash in the kitchen, decorated to look like brick, looks original. It can decorate a wall and complement the furniture in the kitchen. If there is little light in the kitchen, choose tiles light shades. The room visually increases in size and becomes lighter. If the kitchen is decorated with some attributes of national color, the material for the apron can be a tiled panel with reproductions of views of the country, region, or city.

The finishing design is not limited by any conditions. This kitchen element can occupy the entire wall or only part of it, have the shape of an ellipse and a rectangle, a rhombus or a triangle. It depends only on the desire and aesthetic taste of the homeowner. It is easier to determine the dimensions of the apron when kitchen furniture is installed and the hood and stove, dishwasher and washing machine, tables and lockers. Then the width of the apron should be such that its edges are covered by 2-3 cm by the furniture. If there is no furniture, it is better to lay out an apron 5-10 cm wider.

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Materials and tools

To work you need to prepare:

• tile;
• tile adhesive, Ceresit SM11. The approximate adhesive consumption is 25 kg (1 bag) per 4 m² of laid tiles;
• The grouting mixture is waterproof. The color is chosen in accordance with the design of the kitchen.
• primer for treating the base;
• spacer crosses to maintain equal gaps between tiles;
• spatula with a smooth edge;
• notched spatula for applying and leveling the adhesive layer;
• rubber spatula for grouting joints;
• electric drill with a mixer attachment for stirring glue;
• roulette;
• building level;
• sponge for cleaning tile surfaces;
• roller glass cutter, grinder with a disc for cutting ceramics, special tile cutter;
• chisel, hammer, hammer drill with a spatula attachment for removing old decorative coating.

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Preparing the wall for cladding

Before laying a tile backsplash in the kitchen, you need to prepare the base. You need to remove the old coating from the wall. To remove wallpaper, you can do this:

1. Fill a bucket with heated water and dissolve a little in it washing powder containing surfactants.
2. Using a spatula or knife, cuts are made on the wallpaper in a chaotic manner.
3. The wall with wallpaper is wetted with a roller.
4. Once soaked, wallpaper usually peels off easily. All that remains is to scrape them off with a spatula. If several layers of wallpaper are pasted on the wall, the procedure is repeated. It’s a good idea to prepare garbage bags in advance for recycling. The remains of the wallpaper are washed off completely with water.
5. If the wall is wooden, it is treated with a special impregnation or drying oil.
6. If electric wires for hoods and other needs they pass through the location of the future apron, you need to prepare a groove for them. Using a hammer drill or grinder, a depression of approximately 1 cm is made along the marked line. All dust and pieces of brick and plaster are carefully removed, the groove and the surface next to it are treated with a primer. The wire is laid in the groove and secured in it with gypsum mortar.
7. If necessary, the wall is leveled using plaster, putty, or drywall. Plaster mixture diluted in a bucket, ready solution throw it onto the wall with a small spatula, and level it with a spatula 30-40 cm long. It is not necessary to achieve a perfectly flat surface. The main thing is to achieve its verticality.
8. You can remove paint from the wall using construction hair dryer and a spatula. Use a hairdryer to heat up a section of the wall until the paint begins to boil and bubbles appear, which are removed with a spatula or scraper. You can use various compositions to remove paint. But some craftsmen do not advise removing the old paint layer if it is strong enough. It is enough to remove traces of exfoliation, prime the surface and apply notches, which can be made with a grinder. All notches are also primed.
9. You shouldn’t ignore the part of the wall that is hidden behind the furniture. Over time, dust and residues accumulate there. food products. This may result in the appearance of unpleasant creatures such as cockroaches, mice and rats. The tiled splashback itself will protrude significantly forward above the bottom of the wall. This part can be easily leveled with a sheet of plasterboard, gluing it to a height of approximately 85 cm from the floor level. This is where the tile laying will begin. The top of the drywall is marked according to the level and cut off. It will also serve as a stop instead of an auxiliary guide rail.

Preparatory work takes a lot of time in old houses. In relatively new buildings, wall preparation may consist only of removing the old decorative coating, lightly leveling the surface and applying a layer of primer.

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How to lay out an apron?

Standard width protective strip in the kitchen it is usually 0.6-0.8 m. Under the countertop, the apron is lowered another 10-15 cm. The width under the hood is calculated separately. The size of the resulting tongue depends on the height of the hood. The tiles are attached using special glue. The tile joints should be 2-3 mm wide. After drying, they are rubbed with white or colored grout.

The larger the tile, the easier and faster it is to install. But the apron laid out small tiles, looks better. Optimal size– 10x10 cm.

Facing is performed in the following order:

1. The wall is cleared of old finishing materials.
2. Using an old axe, chisel or chisel with a hammer, about 200 notches are applied to each square meter of surface for stronger adhesion of the tile to the base.
3. Before laying the tiles, the wall is treated with a penetrating primer, allowed to absorb and dry.
4. The wall is being marked. Depending on the size kitchen furniture marks are placed indicating the top and bottom of the future apron. The distance between the top and bottom should include entire tiles and extend beyond the edge of the furniture below. Using a level, draw parallel horizontal lines.
5. You can draw a strictly vertical line in the center of the wall.
6. A temporary guide rail or metal profile is attached along the bottom line.
7. The working adhesive mass is being prepared. Water is poured into a clean basin or bucket and mixed. The dry mixture is poured in a thin stream. The proportions are indicated in the instructions on the package. Manually, or preferably with a drill with a mixer attachment, mix the solution until a homogeneous composition without lumps is obtained. The glue is left to swell for 10-15 minutes and mixed again.
8. The adhesive composition is applied with a small spatula to a wide notched trowel and applied to the wall and leveled with teeth.
9. A thin layer of adhesive is applied to the back of the tile. The tile is installed on a guide rail and pressed against the wall flush with the center vertical mark. You need to level it using a level. The next tile is installed nearby. A distance cross is placed between them.
10. After gluing every 8-10 pieces of tile, the surface is carefully wiped with a damp sponge to remove traces of glue.

The entire area of ​​the apron is laid out in a similar manner, with periodic control of the verticality and horizontality of the tiles. The surface must be cleaned of glue; this will be more difficult to do later. After a day, you can remove the crosses from the seams and start grouting them.

Takes ~3 minutes to read

We have to lay tiles on the kitchen apron - we're starting to get smart. This is always the case with beginners. You need to organize your first experience as a tiler as simply as possible, abandoning intricate mosaics, diagonal “harlequin” and other delights. It will be possible to lay out two rows of 40 x 20 cm without flaws - and the beginner is almost a pro! In this article we will talk about the rules for laying a tile backsplash in the kitchen with your own hands.

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Features of a kitchen tile apron

The glue under the ceramics should lie evenly, without air cavities. A beautiful, but very fragile material will have to be washed repeatedly, sometimes with effort. It's unlikely to fall out, but it will definitely crack.

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And also a stripe above work surface should decorate, delight. The process of cooking is labor-intensive, something needs to invigorate. Choose beautiful tiles- half the battle. They harmonize the top and bottom of the set and are an important part of the interior. Can't go wrong with the design!

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Ceramics are three thousand years old or more. Designers insist to pay attention to the following points:

• You can’t put them without seams, 2 mm, 1 mm, but there should be;
• It is necessary to bring part of the tile down, under the table level;
• We place the edge of the top row under the top cabinets;
• Above hob we place it higher; if the exhaust hose does not have front linings, we place it under the very exhaust hatch;
• In the corners of turns, on the turns of the apron, small cuts cannot be made;
• From the corner to the left/right - there should be identical pieces of tiles;
• 2/3 of the tile length is a good cut, half a tile is tolerable, it is better to exclude smaller sizes;
• The main thing, the most difficult thing, is to combine the pattern of the apron with the structure of the kitchen furniture.

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We determine the dimensions of the apron, calculate the material

Let’s say a piece of furniture is adjacent to two walls – a long one and a short one. One of the ends of the headset has a turn near front door. That is, the layout is shaped like an “G”.

Difficulties:

• start with solid tiles on the left and right;
• do not crush with small cuts inside the corner;
• accurately determine the bottom edge of the layout.

The selected seam is 2 mm. This means that calculations must operate with a 202 mm module, and not with 200 mm slabs. From the corner edge, the adjacent layer will “take away” 18 mm (where 1 cm is the thickness of the adhesive layer, and 0.8 cm is the thickness of the tile itself). But from the total length of the masonry, the end molding claims its own. He is 15 mm.

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We draw a strip for tiling on the plastered wall, taking into account:

From here you can see that the cabinet, together with the tabletop and corner molding, will cover not 5 cm of the bottom row of tiles, but all 7. We transfer the offset by 2 cm (increase it) to mark the horizontal axis. The top row of tiles with its lower edge will lie at the level of (850 + 20) + 1.5 + 330 = 1201.5 (mm). Stripe 661.5 is the visible part of the apron, neatly separated by one horizontal seam.

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It is not difficult to calculate the number of tiles to be purchased - to the total area S2 you need to add as many as required for cutting. The cut tiles are used only once, so there is no need to be fancy. About the economical use of pieces: the darkening of the shine, the mismatch of the corners will give away the secondary use of the pieces.

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It should be noted: the simplest example is given, but for the most optimal height apron - about 660 mm, as well as for standard height kitchen tables– 850 mm.

We do not offer patterned, striped, panel, or relief decors for beginners. But if you put such a burden on yourself the first time, you should draw all your ideas with charcoal, fitting the verticals behind the horizontal seams.

Preparation for work and the necessary tools to lay out an apron in the kitchen

The tiles have been purchased and the required amount of dry tile adhesive has been purchased. What other tool will you need?

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Here is the list:

• spatula 15 cm - for kneading and cleaning around,
• serrated spatula - remove ridges,
• metal grater,
• grater-sponge,
• paint roller,
• drip level,
• drill + mixer attachment,
• metal hacksaw + diamond wire,
• ballerina drill, diamond drill,
• two buckets,
• pieces of foam plastic (plasterboard),
• laser level,
• crosses 1.5,
• carpenter's pencil, felt-tip pen.

At point twelve of household chores, the master will exclaim: “Should I buy such an expensive thing?” We retort to the exclamation: the instructions are not intended for a master who knows how to lay a support for the bottom row from a rule, a profile, attaching it with dowels, or even propping it up with a stick. Pros are resourceful. A novice master will laser the corners throughout the apartment, correct the wallpaper, and correct the baseboards. It turns out, essential for the economy thing.

Installation instructions

Once again we check whether the angle, adjacent slopes of doorways and windows are straight. The correspondence to the verticals must be perfect. Refrigerator, buffet - right behind the tiled apron? Then you can’t put tiles there: there will be an ugly gap without a tight fit to the wall. We find the exact boundaries.

Preparing the wall surface

• The old wallpaper was riddled with knife cuts, moistened generously, and scraped off with a spatula.
• The oil paint was chipped and primed. The dried surface was plastered again. Sanded.
• The concrete of new buildings was checked with a measuring rod for blockages from a strict vertical line. We eliminate the identified errors with duralumin beacons, placing each one on plaster “blots”, pushing it towards the wall with a vertically verified measure. We clean off excess plaster from the sides. Let's plaster again. Please pay attention to possible swelling of the surface. We go around the “tummy” with beacons, since it is already pushed forward. There will be the least amount of plaster on it.

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A smooth, dry surface is primed at least twice.

Marking

The bottom row is decisive. For the initially selected type of tile 400 x 200 mm, only one line is needed: level 820 from the floor. This is if the floor is laid. And if not? The situation when the apron is laid before working with the floor covering is largely true. Why dirty the finished floor? In this case, from concrete screed Level 830 needs to be raised. The tiled floor has h = 20 mm (laminate flooring is smaller - 15 mm). If you add 20, you get 850.

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We put a laser level on a tripod and highlight one single line - the edge of the bottom row.

Preparing the adhesive solution

Pour some water into the bucket (so that the dry powder does not become a sediment). We put on a respirator, rip open the bag, and fall asleep. For length L 3 m, h 0.8 m you will need 5 kg of glue, that is, 1/5 of a 25 kg bag.

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Gradually add water from plastic bottle until a thick paste forms. We scrape off the powder along the sides of the bucket with a spatula and return it to the total mass. Let the resulting slurry stand for 5 minutes, mix with a mixer again. The glue is ready.

Tile laying technology

Now we time it for 10 minutes. This is exactly what is needed to lay a small two-row apron. If you hesitate a little, the glue will begin to lose its plasticity, making it difficult to tighten or tighten it. Take care of your hands! Textile gloves for this.

We throw all the glue onto the section of the wall under the apron, you can grab it 2-3 cm wider. Left hand holds a metal grater, the right one holds a notched spatula. We formed 80 cm of ridges from top to bottom, picked up the excess, and did so throughout the entire area.

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Guided by the laser-defined level, we place only whole tiles, skipping the places of sockets, corner and edge cuts. There are spacer crosses in your pocket; we put them in without leaving.

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Advice: It is better to mark on the glued pieces of paint - both for circles and for a hacksaw. It's much more difficult with a felt-tip pen.

Grout

After checking the level of the tiles and tapping doubtful places for balance, you can immediately begin grouting. The fugu is also poured onto the water and mixed with a clean mixer. Taking them out of the bucket, cover the seams with a spatula and smooth them out.

Output of wires and sockets

We drill holes. The socket box nests are made free to allow maneuvering. The socket cups are installed after laying the apron (not before!). We attach the tile with paint, mark the top/bottom of the circle vertically and also horizontally. We place it on drywall (thick foam plastic is suitable), drill it out with a ballerina (you can use a diamond-coated “crown”). It’s good when someone pours water from a bottle while drilling. Then the air is clean. Otherwise you need to wear a respirator. We try it on, glue it, level it. Only after this we fix the cup of the socket box with the remaining glue, bringing the edges of the cup flush (flush).

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Holes for hooks, rails, and freely extending wires are drilled in the same way. A diamond drill is the best assistant. Take into account the need for strict horizontality of each pair.

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Preparation may take a week. But it will be easy to lay ceramics. The main thing is not to get lost, to go strictly according to plan, from the main thing to the little things. Spreading each tile like a sandwich, adjusting the scraps without laying the main front means getting stuck, and for a long time. You need to learn to do it right!

A ceramic apron for the kitchen is one of the most popular ways to decorate the work area, which protects the wall from liquid drops, grease splashes and dirty water. At the same time, the undoubted advantage of this design is the possibility of its self-made. Below we will tell you how to lay a tile backsplash in the kitchen, and if necessary, you will be able to apply the acquired knowledge in practice.

Laying tiles on a kitchen backsplash is a difficult task, but quite doable.

Stage 1. Determine the appearance of the apron

In order for the apron to ultimately become not only a boring background, but a full-fledged highlight of the decor, its appearance should be approached with all responsibility. It is necessary to choose the right tile and decide on the type of installation. In this section we will look at these two points in more detail.

First of all, you need to decide what type of styling you want to see on your apron.

Choosing material

Before making a kitchen apron from tiles, we need to decide on its appearance. In principle, almost any wall tile will suit us for tiling a kitchen wall, but we should take into account the following nuances:

• Size. How larger size tiles, the less time it takes to lay them. At the same time, the apron is made of small elements looks much better. So it’s worth choosing tile models with a side of about 10 cm.

The larger the tile size, the easier it is to install.

• Texture. The cladding surface on the front wall in the kitchen gets dirty very often, so you will need to wash it regularly. Therefore, the more prominent the surface, the more trouble you will have.
• Quantity. When the tile model is selected, it is necessary to calculate the quantity we need. It is worth adding at least 10% to the resulting figure - according to statistics, this is exactly how much material is spent on pruning and scrap.

It is necessary to purchase tiles with a 10% reserve. This will allow you to replace damaged pieces if necessary.

Types of tiles

The huge range of ceramics on the market allows you to choose the option that suits you not only in texture and color, but also in shape. To make it easier for you to decide, in this section we will present the most popular types of tiles that can be used to finish a backsplash.

Illustration	Description
	Tile 10x10. Due to its compact size, it most often does not require trimming during installation. Visually increases the space, which makes it an ideal cladding in small kitchens. In addition, it makes it easy to create a bright, unusual panel. It is worth considering that due to small size, there will be more seams between the tiles on the apron, and this greatly complicates the cleaning process.
	"Boar". Popular type of ceramics with rectangular shape and beveled edges. It has a bright glossy surface, and sizes can range from 7x15 cm to 15x45 cm.
	Under the mosaic. Allows you to decorate your apron with stylish mosaics without spending a lot of effort. It is a standard tile, the surface of which successfully imitates a relief mosaic matrix. This option looks incredibly impressive, but it is also much more difficult to care for than conventional smooth models.
	Medium format. Not as popular as the same hog, but it still looks very stylish. It is best to give preference to solid-color models with bright colors that can dilute monochrome interior. The most successful options for facing an apron are models with dimensions 25x33, 20x30 or 20x20.

Types of apron installation and decor

A plain apron or a checkerboard pattern is most popular among housewives. Besides these classic options ceramics can be laid:

• with offset;
• lines;
• diagonally;
• kaleidoscope.

In addition to standard installation, tiles can be laid diagonally, in the shape of a herringbone or braided labyrinth

If you don’t like any of the proposed options, you can do the following - create a main background from a plain tile and decorate it with one. There are several suitable methods.

• Inserts with a pattern. Most often, tiles with the same size as the main tile are chosen for decoration. They are printed with a raised or flat pattern that contrasts favorably with the background. Such tiles can be laid either pointwise over the entire area of ​​the apron, or by folding them into a small panel.

Patterned inserts will become bright accent in a monochrome kitchen

• Decorative panel. A similar technique can often be found in interiors in country, Provence or classic styles. The tiles are assembled into a stylish pattern that becomes the visual center of the kitchen.

Decorative panels are most often found in classic interior or in Provence and country style

• Border or frieze. Rectangular border tiles are laid along the upper or lower border of the apron. The frieze in the center of the working wall looks no less impressive.

Oblong tiles will visually expand the room

• Pencil. It is a long narrow insert that can be used to disguise “patches” between tiles. Thanks to it, there is no need for inconvenient cutting of tiles.

Stage 2. Preparatory work

When you decide on the model of tiles and purchase required amount, you can safely begin preparatory work. They consist of several stages.

Collection of tools and materials

Of course, to veneer kitchen wall, one tile is not enough. Among other things, you need to stock up on the necessary tools and materials.

The photo shows a list of tools and materials that you will need during the work process.

We will need:

• Tile adhesive. You shouldn’t skimp on small things, it’s better to really take it high-quality composition. Thanks to it, you won't have to worry about your apron starting to crumble in a couple of years. We offer several suitable options.

Illustration	Description
	Knauf Fliesen. Many experts agree that this is one of the best dry mixes for ceramics. German quality and economical consumption product (due to the fact that it is recommended to apply it at a thickness of only 0.7 cm). The approximate price for 25 kg is about 250-270 rubles.
	Unis 2000 . In terms of drying and adhesion, it is practically not inferior to its German counterpart. The composition is elastic, moisture-resistant and prevents deformation of the tiles. The consumption of the mixture is economical - only 3.5-4.5 kg per square meter. 25 kg of mixture will cost you approximately 250 rubles.
	Ceresit C.M.-11 . Great option in cases where the tiles will have to be laid on a surface that is not too flat. The glue sets quickly, which prevents the tiles from sliding down the wall. The cost of the material is approximately 270 rubles.
	Ivsil Mosaik. Snow-white glue, characterized by increased strength and excellent moisture resistance. It can be used not only for cladding an apron, but also for finishing a bathhouse, swimming pool or sauna.

• Grout mixture for seams(necessarily waterproof). The grout color should be selected taking into account the design of the entire kitchen. It can either harmonize or contrast with the tiles. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the most popular and effective materials.

Illustration	Description
	Ceresit. This manufacturer is rightfully considered a leader among grout mixtures. Its products can be used for grouting joints with a width of 4 to 20 mm.
	Atlas. The Polish company produces three types of grout mixtures: epoxy, cement and with the addition of shiny pigments.
	Mapei. Products from the Italian brand are used for grouting joints in the kitchen, bathroom, bathhouses and swimming pools. A wide palette of colors will allow you to choose grout for any type of tile. In addition, the company produces paint for updating old tile joints.
	Kiilto. Due to the fact that the grout mixture from this Finnish manufacturer takes a long time to dry, even a beginner can work with it.

• Primer for the base. The use of primer mixtures is not necessary, but they provide the best adhesion of the adhesive to the wall.
• Crosses. With their help, you can adjust the distance between the tiles and achieve their symmetrical arrangement.

Thanks to the building level, you can adjust the symmetry of the masonry

The tools that will be used for the job are familiar to any tiler. These include:

• graters for tile adhesive;
• spatulas with smooth and serrated edges;
• rubber grout spatulas;
• electric drill for mixing the adhesive composition;
• tape measure and levels for marking and control of installation;
• sponges for cleaning the finished surface.

You will also need equipment for cutting tiles - a roller glass cutter, a grinder with a ceramic blade, or a special tile cutter.

Cutting tiles for corners without a tile cutter or grinder will be problematic

Surface preparation and marking

Once everything you need has been purchased or taken out of the pantry, you can start working. But before you lay out a tile backsplash in the kitchen, you need to spend some time preparing the wall itself. This is done according to the following scheme.

Illustration	Instructions for action
	Removing Old Finish. Dismantle old finishing will have to use the appropriate tools. It is most convenient to knock down tiles with a chisel or a hammer drill, and to remove wallpaper with a metal spatula. Final cleaning is carried out with a wire brush.
	Creating notches. On smooth concrete or brick surface Using a chisel or an old ax we apply shallow notches. They will contribute to better fixation of the glue on vertical wall. You need to make about 200 notches per square meter.
	Primer. Two hours before installing a tile backsplash in the kitchen, we treat the wall with a penetrating primer.
	Marking. It is also necessary to mark the wall - otherwise there is a risk that laying the tiles in the kitchen on the apron will go unevenly, and after installing the furniture we will get a picture that is far from ideal. To do this, focusing on the dimensions of the kitchen unit, mark the top and bottom lines on the wall, between which our apron will be located.

It is better to choose the height based on the use of a whole number of tiles. In this case, the cladding should slightly extend beyond the edge of the tabletop from below. For ease of work, fasten a wooden strip or a special guide profile along the bottom edge. The first row of tiles will rest on it, thereby ensuring the horizontality of the rows.

To lay out the tiles as evenly as possible, make preliminary markings

If you are installing for the first time, then before laying tiles in the kitchen, you can additionally mark the apron using vertical and horizontal lines. They will make it easier to adjust the placement of tiles.

Creating an adhesive solution

The quality of the adhesive composition largely determines the final result, so almost any instruction on how to lay a tile backsplash in the kitchen contains recommendations for its preparation:

• Dissolve glue in water. Pour water into a clean container, and then add the dry component from the bag to it, thoroughly mixing the composition.
• Stir the solution. After the initial stirring (there should be almost no lumps left), take a drill with a special attachment and bring the glue to a homogeneous mass.
• Let the glue sit. Let the resulting solution stand for 10-15 minutes and mix again.

It is necessary to dilute the glue immediately before installation, as it should not harden

Remember that the glue is prepared immediately before laying the tiles on the kitchen apron. The resulting mixture should be used within a few hours after preparation, as it will then lose its properties. If you are just starting to master the cladding technique, and your work pace is not fast, prepare the glue in portions, since under no circumstances should you dilute the dried mixture with water!

Stage 3. Covering the apron

Now that everything preparatory work Finally completed, it's time to talk about how to lay tiles in the kitchen on a backsplash with your own hands. Work must be performed according to the following scheme:

Illustration	Instructions for action
	Applying glue to surfaces. Using a notched grater, scoop up the adhesive solution and apply it to the wall. Apply a layer of glue to the tile using the same grater. We form grooves with the jagged edge, and then apply the tiles to the wall. Its lower edge should rest on the guide profile.
	Aligning tiles. Next, you need to check the horizontal position of the tiles, first with your hands and then with a level.
	Completion of a series. We lay them next to each other in the same way next tile, placing a distance cross between them. Having laid 8-10 pieces, we clean their surfaces from glue, since this will be much more difficult to do later.
	Completion of cladding. Laying tiles on the kitchen apron continues until the entire planned surface is tiled. Remember, you can lay subsequent rows only after the previous one has completely dried.
	Applying grout. Wet the joints between the tiles with a sponge and use a rubber spatula to press the grout mixture into them. Remove excess with the flat side of a spatula. No later than 30 minutes after the procedure, wash the mixture off the tiles.

After two to three hours you can start washing the tiles. First, we wipe the surfaces with a hard sponge to remove all traces of glue and grout, and then clean them with a soft rag. Finally, we treat the apron with dry flannel, which will give the tile the necessary shine.

Conclusion

We hope that after reading this article you will not have any questions about how to lay a kitchen apron from tiles. It should be remembered that this procedure is practically no different from laying tiles on a wall, and therefore it can easily be done on your own, without the involvement of third-party craftsmen. In the video presented in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.

To make it convenient to support work area the kitchen is clean; it is customary to protect it with a so-called apron made of moisture-resistant materials.

Most often, wall panels made of plastic or MDF, as well as ceramic tiles, are used to decorate this part of the set.

What to glue a kitchen apron on - choice of glue

Tile. Until relatively recently, tiles were the only option when choosing a material for finishing a kitchen apron. And today, ceramic tiles are very popular.

As for choosing an adhesive for installing tiles, everything is quite simple - Any will do universal tile adhesive.

The following dry mixtures enjoy a good reputation among finishers:

• Knauf Fliesen,
• UNIS 2000,
• Bergauf Keramik Pro,
• Weber.vetonit,
• CERESIT SM-11.

All of the listed brands of glue are a dry mixture based on cement with special additives; they are suitable for installing ceramic tiles to various substrates.

To prepare the working solution, simply add the amount of water specified by the manufacturer to the dry powder and mix thoroughly. Mixtures such as IVSIL Mosaik or Bergauf Mosaik are suitable for laying mosaic and transparent tiles. They have White color, therefore suitable even for capricious materials.

Plastic and MDF. A wall panel made of plastic or MDF will cost much less than tiles, and there will be much less dirty work if you choose this material.

Installation of a plastic apron is possible in two ways: adhesive and using special fasteners. The adhesive (frameless) method is attractive because it hides traces of installation - the panel remains intact and monolithic.

However glue a plastic apron This can only be done on a perfectly flat wall.

What glue should I use to glue an apron made of plastic panels or MDF? Universal glue for installing plastic to any base (concrete, gypsum plasterboard, wood, etc.) use liquid nails.

Basically, they come in two types: neoprene (neoprene is a synthetic rubber) and acrylic (water-based). The former have a pungent odor and are quite toxic; acrylic ones are safe from an environmental point of view, but are more sensitive to water and temperature changes.

For finishing the kitchen apron with plastic wall panels, as well as MDF panels, according to reviews from professional finishers, glue brands such as:

• Mounting adhesive TITANIUM “Panels & Moldings” - heavy-duty rubber-based adhesive. Quickly and reliably adheres finishing and decorative materials made of plastic, MDF, wood boards, etc. to most absorbent building substrates. Resistant to temperature and humidity changes.
• LIQUID NAILS (Liquid nails) LN-910 (Panels and moldings) - specially developed adhesive composition for fastening plastic panels, baseboards, moldings and others decorative elements. The glue does not contain toluene and acetone, and is resistant to moisture and temperature changes. Provides reliable adhesion to concrete, brick, wood, plasterboard and other stable substrates.
• Moment Installation MP-40 “Universal” - designed for fastening wall panels and moldings made of PVC, MDF, wood and plastic. The glue remains elastic after drying and is waterproof. Suitable for most building materials. Can be used on uneven surfaces(fills voids well), has excellent adhesion.

How to glue a plastic kitchen apron with your own hands

The installation process itself is not difficult, but requires care.

The most difficult thing about working with a solid plastic panel is adjusting it to the size of the kitchen.

At the marking stage, you should take several horizontal measurements, since walls are not always perfectly level.

How to properly glue an apron?

The process consists of several successive stages:

1. Surface preparation. If there is wallpaper on the walls, it should be removed. The wall is cleaned of peeling plaster and various contaminants and covered with a primer. It is better to choose an acrylic primer for rooms with high humidity- it contains antibacterial and antifungal additives.
2. Applying glue. Liquid nails LIQUID NAILS and any others are applied using a special gun only to dry, degreased surface. This should not be done in a continuous layer, but dotted or in a snake pattern.
3. Gluing. The surfaces to be glued are pressed tightly against each other and immediately separated to ensure that there is enough glue. After 3-5 minutes, final gluing is carried out, pressing the panel tightly against the wall. The glue sets almost instantly, however greatest strength gluing is achieved within a day.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

We glue an MDF apron in the kitchen

This procedure differs little from working with a plastic panel; it also consists of three stages:

1. Surface preparation. The wall is cleaned and, if necessary, leveled. Highly absorbent surfaces are treated with a primer.
2. Application liquid nails. The workpiece is tried on in place and cut according to the right size. A layer of glue is applied pointwise or in a snake pattern to the MDF panel.
3. Gluing. The panel is applied to the wall and pressed lightly, after which it is removed and a technological pause is maintained (3-5 minutes). Then the panel is finally glued. For greater reliability, a heavy apron can be supported in several places with slats; after the glue has completely dried, they are removed.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Don't try to stick plastic panel or an MDF apron the first time, since this is not always possible. Place the panel against the wall, then lightly tap it and remove it.

After pausing for a few minutes, you can begin the final gluing. In most cases, it is enough to firmly press the surfaces at the joints once to achieve rapid setting of the adhesive.

The visible parts of the edge of the apron should be additionally refined with MDF corners of a suitable color.