Bathhouse lining. How to decorate a bathhouse with clapboard. Choosing the right material

Sheathing materials inner surface baths should only be made of wood - neither stone nor ceramic tiles can provide the necessary microclimate in the steam room and washing room. Wooden walls“breathe”, accumulate heat well and gradually release it during the washing process, without causing burns or overheating. The best option for finishing on your own is eurolining made from natural wood.

Facing bath rooms exposed to large temperature changes, high humidity and exposure to steam. Therefore, its technical characteristics necessarily comply with the following conditions:

• When exposed to high temperatures (70-90°C) it should not deform and emit fumes harmful to health.
• Sliding and untreated rough surfaces are not allowed to avoid injuries and splinters.
• Wood does not warp from spilled water, especially for flooring.

The aesthetic parameter is important - it’s nice when the design pleases the eye and promotes rest and relaxation. High-quality eurolining meets these conditions.

Features of the material
Where to start with wood paneling? WITH the right choice material. Not all types of wood are suitable for a bath: for example, hornbeam, birch or walnut are susceptible to damage by fungi and mold, spruce is too saturated with resins. It is optimal to use the following breeds:

• Linden. "Breath" walls light, the faint aroma of essential oils will not harm allergy sufferers and people with diseases of the bronchopulmonary system. It perfectly withstands high temperatures and humidity, has a low heat capacity, which completely eliminates burns.
• Aspen. The wood, pleasant to the touch, copes well with constant exposure to steam and becomes stronger over time. It may darken from overheating, but it healing properties this will not decrease.
• Oak, beech. They retain heat well and are suitable for baths and saunas used by physically strong people. Children and the elderly will have a hard time in such a steam room, as overheating is possible.
• Siberian or Canadian cedar. Reddish wood is beautiful and durable, does not rot. Has bactericidal properties. One drawback is the high cost.

Pine is not suitable, as it emits a lot of resin and is not so durable, but it is quite suitable for a dressing room.

Purchase material packaged in shrink film. Lack of packaging indicates low quality of the product.

The nuances of working with eurolining when covering a bathhouse with your own hands

1. Before starting finishing, calculate correctly required amount materials. It’s not difficult to do it yourself – you just need to measure it accurately linear dimensions premises and determine the area of ​​walls, ceiling and floor minus windows and doors. Divide the resulting value by the area of ​​the board and add 15% for cutting costs.

2. Usually the price is indicated per 1 m2, but if the cost is given per 1 m3, then it is difficult to calculate the consumption yourself. In this case, contact the store manager and he will perform the calculation using special tables.

3. To save money, finishing is made from a combination of materials. Surfaces in contact with the human body are sheathed with less thermally conductive wood, and the ceiling and upper parts of the walls are covered with planks that become very hot and release essential oils.

4. A few days before starting work, bring the opened packages with eurolining into the bathhouse so that the wood gets used to the temperature and humidity indoors.

5. Fasten to the sheathing only with suitable clamps; do not reduce the cost of fastening by driving small nails obliquely. Otherwise, temperature changes inside the steam room will lead to deformation, as well as soaking and rotting.

Step-by-step instructions for cladding

First, the lamellas and sheathing are treated with special heat-resistant antiseptic compounds. By the time the cladding is carried out, the walls and ceiling must be insulated. Use mineral wool or other heat-resistant insulation materials. The heat insulator must be covered with a layer of vapor barrier foil. Before installation finishing cladding a stove is installed inside the steam room and ventilation system. The work starts from the ceiling.

Technology of finishing the ceiling with eurolining

The work is carried out from the door into the room and consists of the following stages:

1. Lathing.

They are made from dry beams with a cross-section from 20x50 mm to 50x50 mm and fixed on top with vapor barrier foil, under which there is already a frame for insulation. The distance between adjacent bars is from 400 to 600 mm.

The bars are placed perpendicularly finishing cladding, their ends must have a ventilation gap with the walls of 5-10 cm. Evenness is checked by level or using stretched cord. Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in advance, in increments of 40-50 cm.

2. Installation of lining.

The tenon of the starting bar must be cut off. Next, they are screwed to the sheathing with wood screws, so that there is a gap of 10-20 mm between it and the wall. Clamps are inserted into the groove of the starting board with a step equal to the distance between the sheathing beams.

After fixing the first panel, a tenon of the next one is inserted into its groove and secured with clamps. As the sheathing progresses, holes are cut out for mounting lamps, ventilation grilles and decorative items to decorate the bathhouse/sauna from the inside. The finishing strip is cut to the required distance to the wall, inserted into the groove of the previous one and secured with staples or hidden nails.

Wall decoration when covering the inside with clapboard

There are two ways - vertical and horizontal. For a classic steam room, the second one is more suitable. The slats are fixed with the tenon facing upward, which reduces the risk of water getting between them. In case of damage or rotting of wood, the horizontal method allows you to replace only damaged elements. The lathing is placed vertically, so air circulation inside the space between the beams and the eurolining occurs evenly, which cannot be said about the horizontal frame.

The vertical option has its advantages:

• condensate formed from steam quickly flows down the vertical lamellas;
• water does not stagnate between the grooves and ridges;
• The high temperature in the steam room lasts longer.

Well suited for saunas/baths with dry steam; cladding is easier to do.

Among the disadvantages, uneven heating is noted: near the ceiling the air is hotter, near the floor the temperature is lower. As a result, the cladding may warp, and changing single vertical ones is problematic.

If vertical cladding is assumed, then first fix the vertical battens of the sheathing, and then the transverse ones. When laying horizontally, the order of installing the frame is reversed: cross beams located under the vertical ones. The technology of wall cladding is practically no different from ceiling planes. A gap of 20 mm is left between the ceiling and the finishing panel, the same distance is maintained between the starting strip and the floor.

Additional processing of wooden bath surfaces

After installation is completed, it is necessary to additionally coat the wood with natural impregnating compounds. This is done in order to avoid rotting of the wood and the formation of cracks.

Processing is carried out as follows:

• The casing is cleaned of dust and dirt. You can wash it with water and soda (300 g of baking soda is enough for a 10 liter bucket).
• Wooden surfaces are degreased, and all roughness is sanded.
• The lining is treated with an antiseptic to prevent infection by fungi and mold.

Common mistakes when decorating a steam room

Main violations:

1. The panels are installed directly onto the walls through vapor barrier foil. This happens if they are made of laminated veneer lumber and have a smooth surface. Here the master does not take into account possible shrinkage: as the timber sag, it will push through the sheathing, and the lining will bend and warp. Be sure to arrange the crate.
2. No ventilation gaps between cladding and vapor barrier. The situation is guaranteed to lead to the appearance of mold and dampness on inside panels.
3. Insulation of walls and ceilings with unsuitable materials - for example, from foamed polymers. In such cases, the insulation material may collapse under the influence of high temperature.
4. The lining on the ceiling “goes” in waves. This means the ceiling joists were not level.
5. Painting and varnishing with compounds not intended for the steam room. Read the instructions carefully before buying paint and varnish products, otherwise bathing procedures will not be beneficial, but harmful to your health.
6. The heads of screws or nails are on the surface of the panels, which can lead to skin burns and scratches. Fixation must be hidden (clamps, staples, “nail in groove”).
7. The dimensions of the fasteners do not correspond to the thickness of the panels. You cannot save money - this will lead to the cladding coming apart.

Sometimes, in order to reduce the cost of finishing work, inexperienced craftsmen sheathe the steam room with material with traces of knots. This is unacceptable, since under the influence of high temperatures the boards quickly become unusable. For a steam room, you should purchase eurolining or panels of the Extra class, and in the dressing room - a lower class (A, B and C).

Decorating a steam room in a bathhouse with your own hands is an extremely important undertaking. And although the masters do not have a single recipe, and there cannot be one, everyone agrees on one thing: it is very important to minimize heat loss, since this is the only way we will ensure even and stable heat, to maintain which we will not have to constantly burn cubic meters of wood or kilowatts of electricity.

In practice, achieving such a result is not easy, but if you follow the advice I have given (I managed to test most of it in practice), then everything will work out!

Step 1. Thermal insulation

Preparing the walls

I will start the story about how to properly decorate a steam room in a bathhouse with a description of the thermal insulation process. High-quality insulation and protection of thermal insulation material from moisture are our priorities!

At the first stage we need to prepare the walls and ceiling. The preparation algorithm depends on the material from which the walls are made:

1. Wooden log house in mandatory we caulk. To do this, fill all the cracks between the beams/logs with moss, tow, jute fiber, etc. We carefully compact the caulking material to avoid blowing and heat loss.
2. Sami wooden surfaces treat with antiseptic. Its role is obvious: no matter how well we waterproof the room, high humidity will provoke the development of bacteria and fungi. So it’s best to take action in advance.

1. We treat walls made of concrete or brick with a primer containing waterproofing and antiseptic components.. This will protect the base from moisture and will also help prevent the development of fungal infections.
2. In a bathhouse made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and other porous materials, it is also worth priming the walls. A primer based on polymeric materials penetrates the pores of the material and reduces its moisture capacity, which is highly desirable in this situation.

Only after completing the pre-treatment of the walls can you proceed to the installation of the thermal insulation circuit.

Frame and insulation

Insulating walls and ceilings in a bathhouse is a process that each master does according to his own scheme. The finishing sequence may be different, and the materials used are different, so here I will give a universal option:

1. I fill the walls and ceiling with sheathing beams. The distance from the wall to the edge of the beam must correspond to the thickness of the heat-insulating material used, so sometimes it is necessary to place skull blocks under the sheathing.

1. When installing the sheathing, I provide for the laying of communications: using a drill, I make holes in the beams through which I pass a heat-resistant metal hose with wires for lighting the steam room.
2. I'll definitely arrange it vent: I fill a frame of timber around the perimeter of the vent, and leave the passage itself free.

It's worth installing outside ventilation grille to protect against insects and rodents, which usually invade a warm room in “orderly rows”.

1. After completing this stage, I place slabs of heat-insulating material into the cells of the sheathing. It is best to use mineral wool with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm, since polymer materials (foam plastic, polystyrene) either melt or actively release volatile toxins when heated to 1200C.

1. On top of the thermal insulation layer I lay a vapor barrier that protects the mineral wool from moisture. If previously glassine was mainly used for this, today it is best to use polymer films with foil: the foil coating not only prevents the insulation from getting wet, but also acts as a thermal mirror, reflecting infrared rays back into the steam room.

Vapor barrier materials must be laid overlapping, securing the edges with heat-resistant tape.

1. The next step is installation of the counter-lattice. To do this, I stuff slats 20–40 mm thick on top of the vapor barrier: they will form a gap for air circulation under the clapboard lining. The presence of such a gap contributes to effective ventilation of the insulated wall and normalization of humidity in the room.

IN brick bath or in a bathhouse made of foam/aerated concrete, you can also use foam glass insulation. High density material allows it to be mounted without a frame, directly on load-bearing walls:

1. We glue foam glass blocks onto all surfaces using a heat-resistant compound.
2. For reliability, we fix each block with a “fungus” dowel.
3. We fill the counter-lattice on top of the blocks to install the lining.

Floors and ceilings

The floors and ceilings in the steam room should also be given attention. So, I recommend finishing the floors with either solid boards or tiles according to wooden base. Naturally, you can’t do without insulation here:

1. I pour a layer of sand and gravel mixture over the ground into the underground space. The thickness of the bedding should be at least 10 - 15 cm after compaction.
2. On a compacted floor pour expanded clay so that top edge The expanded clay layer coincided with the lower edge of the lag.

To prevent baked clay granules from crumbling, you can fill the backfill with liquid cement mortar - you will get improvised expanded clay concrete.

1. On top of the expanded clay we lay slabs of mineral wool with a thickness of 75 mm. We lay the mineral wool so that it fits tightly into the space between the joists.
2. An alternative to mineral wool is ecowool, a fibrous cellulose material. It is blown under pressure into the underground space, so the insulation procedure should be carried out after laying the subfloor.
3. A layer of vapor barrier must be laid on top of the insulation. If this is not done, high humidity will lead to a significant increase in the thermal conductivity of the material.

1. Finally, we lay the subfloor on top. It can be made either from boards or from moisture-resistant plywood of sufficient thickness.

Now a few words about how to finish the ceiling. From the inside, everything is more or less clear: we do the same as for the walls, except that the thickness of the insulating panels can be slightly reduced. The trick is that we will also do thermal insulation from the outside:

1. I cover the ceiling of the bathhouse with two or three layers of fiberglass.
2. I pour 30 cm of clay solution on top, to which I add chopped straw or sawdust (1:1 by volume).
3. When the clay dries, I lay it down thin sheets polystyrene and pour a cement screed.

The resulting multilayer structure retains heat well. At the same time, you can move along the screed, so that the attic of the bathhouse can be used for storing various things.

Step 2. Sheathing

Choosing wood

We will sheathe the ceiling and walls, and sometimes lay the floors using exclusively natural wood. And here the choice of wood species comes to the fore.

If you are wondering what to decorate the inside of the steam room with, carefully study the following table:

Deciding what exactly to use for lining the steam room can only be done after a thorough analysis of the situation: this is influenced by the volume of the room, the planned temperature in it, and financial capabilities. So I usually give exactly one recommendation: for the steam room, choose the highest quality wood that you can afford!

We install the lining

One of the advantages of lining as a material for covering baths and saunas is its fairly simple installation. The presence of a tongue-and-groove locking system gives us the opportunity to quickly assemble parts with minimal gaps - so when doing the work with our own hands, we only have to make sure that the parts are mounted smoothly.

Before starting work on finishing the steam room, it’s worth thinking about: how will we install the lining – vertically or horizontally? Both options have both pros and cons:

1. At vertical installation Each board is subjected to fairly intense temperature deformations: the lower part is in the cold zone (conditionally), the upper part is in the hot zone. At the same time, the wood will still remain below for a long time damp, hence the high risk of fungus formation. On the other hand, with vertical installation there is a lower risk of gaps forming between panels, since each board is deformed evenly.
2. Horizontal installation reduces the risk of deformation - each lining is in its own “temperature zone”. The lower rows fall into an area with an increased risk of fungal colonies - but they are relatively easy to replace when renovating. The disadvantages of such installation include the high probability of cracks forming in the sheathing - the upper panels will shrink more due to greater heating, and the seams are almost guaranteed to come apart.

Despite the above features, I am inclined to believe that it is better to place the lining horizontally in both a log steam room and a brick bathhouse. At the same time, it is worth thinking in advance about the possibility of cracks forming, and partially compensate for this risk by paying attention to Special attention sealing locks.

The installation of the lining itself can be carried out in two ways. When mounting vertically, the easiest way is to mount the boards on special clips - clamps:

1. The first panel is installed on the surface, after which clamps are put on the groove - one for each frame rail.
2. We level the board, and then nail the clamps to the frame or fix them with galvanized steel staples using a stapler.
3. We insert the next panel with a tenon into the groove, align it for the tightest possible fit (do not hammer it in - the board must remain mobile) and also fix it with clamps.

1. For vertical installation, this scheme can also be used, but it is not so convenient - the sheathing has to be done from top to bottom, so that the grooves of the boards are oriented towards the floor. If you do it differently, moisture will inevitably accumulate in the recesses of the grooves.

You can do without clips:

1. We install the panel on the base and level it.
2. We place a special nail with a small head into the groove at an angle and hammer it in with several precise blows of a hammer.

In order not to break the edges of the groove by missing a blow, I use an “extension”: I press a small hammer against the head of the nail and hit it with a medium one.

1. We deepen the protruding caps using a thin punch.
2. We carry out further assembly in the same way as in the previous case - but instead of clamps, we simply hammer in nails diagonally.

After completing the cladding, we impregnate all wooden surfaces with a special compound. Varnishes and stains are not suitable here: the instructions strongly recommend the use of products aimed specifically at processing wood in baths and saunas.

Step 3. Equipping the steam room

Sheathing walls and ceilings is a very important and time-consuming process, but, alas, it is not final. After the walls are finished with wooden paneling, we perform the following operations:

1. We lay the floor on a rough base made of boards or plywood. For the floor we take either massive board, or tiled floor tiles.
2. We cover the junction of the walls and the floor with skirting boards.
3. We arrange a place for the heater by installing a metal screen on the floor and adjacent wall.

1. We assemble a two- or three-level canopy (aka shelves, aka bunks - called differently!) from wooden beams on the frame. During assembly, we make sure that all metal fasteners are secured exclusively from the inside: in a heated bath, any contact with the head of a nail or self-tapping screw is an almost guaranteed burn.

When fastening with self-tapping screws from the outside, their caps must be recessed into secret holes with a depth of at least 5 mm, and the holes themselves must be closed with wooden pins.

1. We install the heater and mount a wooden grate around it.
2. We connect a special lamp for the steam room to the wires brought out from under the casing.
3. We install a door in the opening, which we adjust so that it closes as tightly as possible. By the way, no matter the size of the steam room, the door should only open outward - for safety reasons.

1. We insert a special wooden plug with a handle and seals around the perimeter into the ventilation hole.
2. Well, and most importantly, we hang a thermometer that will show how “cool” we have heated our steam room!

Conclusion

The interior decoration of the steam room must be impeccable, because the high temperature and humidity in this room do not forgive mistakes. What “will do” in an ordinary room will definitely “come to the surface” in a bathhouse, so we don’t cut corners!

We carefully study the theory, watch the video in this article, and if questions arise, ask them on the forum or here in the comments. And if everything is done correctly, the steam will be really light!

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

What kind of materials are not used for the construction of baths - bricks, foam concrete and gas silicate blocks and much more. But only a tree can create that unique microclimate that will have a beneficial effect on the well-being of visitors to the steam room. And it’s much more pleasant and familiar to the eye wooden panels. And even if the bathhouse is built of wood concrete, stone or other similar material, nothing will stop you from covering the inner surfaces of the walls and ceilings with wooden clapboard yourself.

Lining as a product was first used for covering the walls of carriages. This is where its name comes from. The difference from simple edged boards was the presence of grooves along the long sides of the lining, which ensured maximum contact between adjacent panels. The sheathed wall was without cracks or gaps, smooth and quite beautiful in appearance.

Along with technological progress, production has also stepped forward. different types clapboards. Today it is produced in several versions of the profiles themselves, which differ in size, quality, and material of manufacture.

Note! You can find plastic lining on sale, but such panels are only suitable for lining the dressing room and dressing room in a bathhouse. Plastic does not withstand high temperatures and is not suitable for finishing a steam room. Wooden products, in turn, regulate the level of humidity by absorbing or evaporating water from their surfaces, and some types of wood additionally release aromatic components that have a beneficial effect on respiratory system person.

Choosing lining for cladding

Wood paneling can be regular or euro. The first has roughness and lint on its surface, the second is perfectly smooth. On the back side of the eurolining there is ventilation ducts, which prevent the accumulation of moisture (condensation) and relieve stress in the material. According to , humidity wooden products allowed within 12±3%, however, ordinary lining can be made from wood with a moisture content of up to 25%, which can lead to deformation during operation of the bathhouse. Based on this, we will choose a suitable wooden eurolining for lining the bathhouse.

Prices for wooden lining

wooden lining

Marking and technical requirements

The lining is made from wood coniferous species and deciduous. Best options for the steam room - aspen, linden, cedar, spruce, alder, oak, pine.

The following table shows the classes and their descriptions. It is worth knowing that wood with a large number of knots heats up faster and can burn. The markings are the same for all types of wooden lining.

The standards for defects according to GOST are shown in the table below.

All that remains is to choose the profile of the lining, because... each has its own installation nuances.

Video - How to choose lining

Calculate the area of ​​the internal lining

For example, let’s take a 3x3 meter bathhouse with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters. Sheathing will be done on all walls and ceiling; the floor is not taken into account in the calculations.

Suppose there are two rooms in the bathhouse - a 2x3 meter steam room and a 1x3 meter hallway. We calculate the area of ​​the steam room lining.

1. Ceiling area: 2x3=6 m2.
2. Area of ​​the long wall: 3x2.5=7.5 m2.
3. Short wall area: 2x2.5=5 m2.
4. Total area of ​​the room: 6 (ceiling)+7.5 (first long wall)+7.5 (second long wall) +5 (first short wall) +5 (second short wall) = 31 m2.

We calculate the area of ​​the hallway paneling.

1. Ceiling area: 1x3=3 m2.
2. Area two long walls: 3x2.5=7.5 m2. 7.5x2=15 m2.
3. Area of ​​two short walls: 1x2.5 = 2.5 m2. 2.5x2=5 m2.
4. Total area: 3+15+5=23 m2.

The total cladding area will be 31+23=54 square meters. From this figure you should subtract the area of ​​the window and doorways, then add a 15% supply of material for trimming.

The price of lining is indicated per square or linear meters, less often - cubic meters.

You can calculate the difference in price if you find out how many lining strips are needed to cover the inner surface of the bathhouse.

The most popular profile size is as follows:

• panel thickness 12.5 mm;
• panel width 96 mm;
• panel lengths from 2000 to 6000 mm.

The following tables will help you find out how much square meters material in one cubic meter, count the number of packages (1 package = 10 lining panels) and determine the cost of covering the room.

Advice! You should not purchase a lining without packaging (shrink film) - this is a low-quality product that will quickly lose its properties and the sauna lining will have to be completely or partially replaced.

Choosing the method of installing the lining

The lining in the baths is fixed vertically and horizontally. But a more rational option for a bathhouse is horizontal.

Let's consider a number of advantages of this type of fastening:

When constructing and finishing turnkey baths, builders often install the lining vertically, choosing panels that are suitable in height and installing them without trimming. With vertical mounting it is easier to arrange the corners, the work takes a little less time. But saving time often backfires, because if a vertical board is damaged by an accidental impact, falling coal or high humidity, the entire wall will have to be dismantled.

Installation of lining

Before finishing The walls and ceiling of the bathhouse are insulated. It is best to use mineral (stone) wool or other insulation materials that do not deform when heated and do not emit harmful chemical fumes into the air. A layer of foil vapor barrier must be fixed on top of the insulation. Ruberoid and glassine are not used in the bathhouse. The stove and ventilation system are installed before installing the lining.

Prices for PVC lining

pvc lining

Video - Insulation of bath walls

Video - Ventilation in the steam room

Even if the ceiling is made of wood, you cannot simply nail the lining to it with nails. Let's consider step by step process ceiling trim.

Step 1. Assembling the sheathing on the ceiling

The sheathing will consist of slats with a cross-section from 2x5 cm to 5x5 cm. The slats should be fairly even and dry.

The slats will be fixed on top of the foil, under which there is already a sheathing for insulation. Optimal distance between adjacent slats - from 40 to 60 cm.

Note! It is understood that the sheathing for the insulation was attached using a level and plumb lines, and the result was a horizontal ceiling surface without distortions.

The slats will be located perpendicular to the direction of the lining strips. We attach the first rail at a distance of 10 cm from the wall, using yellow-passivated stainless steel wood screws 7-10 cm long. We screw in the screws every half meter. It is recommended to pre-drill holes in the slats for self-tapping screws to prevent the wood from cracking.

We fasten the second rail strictly parallel to the first at a distance of 45-60 cm. The ends of the slats should be 10 cm from the nearest walls. We continue to work until the last lath of the sheathing is installed. We constantly check that the slats are attached correctly using a stretched fishing line/cord or a laser level. If a horizontal deviation is detected, small wooden wedges are placed between the foil and the lath.

In some cases, when it is necessary to make a lower ceiling in a bathhouse, metal hangers are used to attach the lathing.

In this case, first, hangers are fixed to the ceiling using long self-tapping screws (dowels with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 80 mm are used only for ceilings made of concrete and other dense materials), after which the sheathing beams are horizontally attached to them (self-tapping screws with large threads are used, length 3 .5 cm). It is more convenient to do the work together, so that an assistant holds the other end of the batten and ensures that the sheathing is in the correct position.

It is advisable to impregnate the wooden sheathing with an antiseptic to make it last longer.

Note! You can first assemble the sheathing of the ceiling and walls, and then proceed to install the lining or completely sheathe the ceiling, and then attach slats and wooden panels to the walls.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the ceiling

There is no need to make through holes in the lining and hammer nails into it. This is not only unsightly, but will also lead to corrosion of hardware and the appearance of rust spots on the ceiling.

To fix the lining, you can use either a set of clamps with nails, or staples 38 or 40 mm long. Staples 25 mm long are not used.

Before attaching the first plank, you should cut off the tenon from it. To do this, draw a straight line with a pencil, cut the board lengthwise with an electrocut, and apply it to the future location so that the panel is 1-2 cm away from the walls.

On a note! If you work alone, use supports under the panel. This will make it much easier to hold her.

We fasten the first panel of the lining with self-tapping screws to the sheathing. We maintain a pitch of 50-80 cm, we use only stainless steel screws. If you want to recess the heads of the screws into the thickness of the lining, drill holes for the screws, and then countersink each of them (holes).

Let's consider the method of fastening with clamps. Metal clamps are inserted into the groove of the first board.

Each of them has three holes, into which either the 2 nails included in the kit are driven in, or the bracket is adjusted. The clamps are inserted with a step corresponding to the step of the sheathing, so that the lining is attached to the slats, and not to the foil and insulation.

If instead of clamps they are used staples, then they are aimed at the groove of the lining board at an angle.

When the first board is fixed, the next panel is inserted into its groove with a tenon. To seal the joint, take a wooden “chock”, apply it to the end of the panel and lightly tap along the entire length.

There is another way to seal the connection. You will need a wedge, a clamp and a hammer. We fix the bracket on the lath of the sheathing, insert a wedge between the bracket and the end of the lining, and hit the wide end of the wedge with a hammer.

We continue to sheathe the ceiling, if necessary, cutting out holes for lamps, ceiling ventilation grilles, and other decorative elements.

The last board of the lining may have to be cut lengthwise. We measure the distance from the wall to the last inserted plank, make markings, cut the panel, and insert the part of the board with the tenon into the groove.

To seal the connection, a bracket is useful. We insert it into the gap between the wall and the paneling and tap it with a mallet.

Note! Periodically you need to check the parallelism of the lining boards. It is convenient to use a tape measure for this. We insert the “tab” of the tape measure into the gap between the first panel and the wall, measure the distance to the end of the last panel attached to the ceiling. We repeat the operation on the opposite side of the ceiling, the distance should be the same. That is, if on one side 5 panels nailed to the ceiling have a width of 60 cm, then on the opposite side it should also be 60 cm.

The last board, like the first, is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Video - Installation of lining on the ceiling

Installation of lining on the wall

Step 1. Installation of lathing on the walls

We screw the first rail with self-tapping screws to the very bottom of the wall, at a distance of 1-2 cm from the floor.

We nail the following slats in the corners of the room.

The slats will also run near windows and doors. To make the work go faster (or in the absence of a screwdriver), you can nail the slats with a nailer (suitable for nails up to 65-160 mm long) or a staple gun (staple length for a 20 mm thick slats from 38 to 51 mm), but it is important to drive in nails and staples not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle (from top to bottom), so that the hardware tightly holds the wood even with its thermal expansion.

After all the vertical slats have been installed, nail the sheathing around the door and window openings, you can proceed to the installation of horizontal slats, the first of which is attached at a distance of 10 cm from the ceiling. The danger of sharp edges breaking through the foil is minimal, so the chamfer can no longer be ground off. Be sure to check the correct position of the installed slats.

For convenience, the distance between the top rail and the floor is divided into equal sections of 40-50 cm, with the resulting step the horizontal bars of the sheathing are attached using 90 or 100 mm self-tapping screws (holes are drilled under them with a drill) or nails.

Note! The lathing described above is suitable for fastening the lining vertically. To arrange the lining strips horizontally, first attach horizontal slats to the wall, and vertical slats on top of them.

It is worth noting that if the walls of a log house are covered with clapboard, and there are no layers of insulation and foil (for example, in a dressing room), then the sheathing is assembled on aluminum hangers. They are fixed to the logs with self-tapping screws, after which the slats are attached, leaving a gap of 5-10 cm for ventilation.

Step 2. Installation of lining on the walls

If the lining boards will be positioned vertically, then we attach the first plank from any of the corners of the room.

It is worth carefully measuring the length of the panels, because between the floor and the wood, as well as between the already sheathed ceiling and the wall wooden planks a gap of 2 cm must be left.

To beautifully decorate the corner, we cut off a tenon from the board. We attach the lining to the sheathing, check the verticality, and screw in the screws.

We insert the second board into the groove of the first panel. We seal the connection with a mallet. Next, we fix it with clamps or staples (the installation method is identical on walls and ceilings, detailed instructions are described above).

If the lining will be located horizontally, installation begins from the ceiling.

We drill holes for the self-tapping screws, place the board on the sheathing (always with the groove down) at a distance of 2 cm from the floor, check that it is horizontal. Screw it into drilled holes self-tapping screws We leave a small gap between the ceiling and the first panel, which will be covered with a plinth. We insert clamps into the groove of the first panel or shoot the staples.

We insert the second board with a tenon into the groove of the one above. We check their parallelism, after which we fix them again with clamps or staples.

Video - Steam room lathing

When all the walls are sheathed, all that remains is to install baseboards (on the floor or additionally in the corners and under the ceiling), lampshades and sockets, and make shelves. At this point, the lining of the bathhouse inside with clapboard is completed.

Finishing a steam room with clapboard is the most environmentally friendly way to arrange it

For a steam room in a bathhouse, the only suitable material for arrangement is internal space is a wooden lining. This is due to its environmental cleanliness, which is so important for bathhouses and saunas. But not everyone knows how to properly line a steam room with clapboard. And it is precisely about the literacy of work that should lead to a high-quality result that we will talk in this article.

How to choose a lining so you don’t regret it later

First of all, you need to decide on the type of material. On the market building materials there is a large selection available. Therefore, the question arises - which lining is better for a steam room?

Classification of lining by type

Wood panels are classified according to the following parameters: profile type and class. Wood lining is a simple way to imitate the surface of a timber. It is made not only from wood, but also from plastic and other materials.

But, for obvious reasons, the instructions for PVC panels does not allow the use of plastic panels in rooms with high temperatures, which can lead to their deformation and the release of fumes harmful to health.

• Eurolining - for ease of installation, it is equipped with characteristic recesses located longitudinally on the underside of the panel. These recesses provide ventilation to the surface finished with the material and serve to drain moisture. Eurolining is most often used when finishing external surfaces;
• with an outwardly convex profile. This type of board is used more often than other types by those who are faced with the question of what clapboard to cover the steam room with. This popularity is explained by its high aesthetics. This material is a reliable imitation of round timber and gives the bathhouse an attractive appearance.

Division of lining by quality

Wooden lining is also usually divided into 4 classes.

They differ in the number of surface defects per unit area:

• “Extra” class implies the complete absence of any visible defects (darkening of the surface, knots, etc.). Covering the steam room with clapboard of this class will provide an ideal surface;
• On class “A” panels, slight darkening is allowed. In addition, on such a lining there may be no more than two bitches per linear meter of material. The size of these knots should not be larger than the size of a match head;
• Requirements for class “B” material allow for the presence of linear meter material no more than three knots. In addition, stains are possible on the entire surface of such lining;
• Class “C” is represented by the lowest quality, in terms of appearance, material in this segment. Its surface may contain different kinds defects - from colored stains and knots of various sizes to holes. That's why this type of material is usually used for constructing closed structural elements.

You can choose a material that is suitable for all parameters based on the above data. Of course, it is preferable to use eurolining of the best “extra” class, but its price is quite high.

Professionals say that finishing a steam room in a bathhouse does not necessarily require the use of the material itself. high class and it is quite possible to limit ourselves to purchasing, for example, “B” class lining.

Surface preparation

For installation, you first need to prepare the material and surface. Before processing the lining in the steam room, its base surface needs careful preparation. Preparation is necessary for high-quality fastening of the material and in order to eliminate various negative manifestations of the impact high humidity and high temperature.

Let's get started:

• We remove protruding elements from the surface (decor, lighting etc.). After this, we carefully check the walls for potholes and cracks. If there are any, we eliminate them. It is necessary to seal even small cracks, because they will damage the thermal insulation of the steam room and will increase over time from exposure to the extreme environment characteristic of this room;

• After filling the cracks, we check the evenness of the surfaces. This is best done using a laser plane builder. If the wall surface is characterized by a noticeable amplitude, then they need to be leveled using wooden spacers;
• Next, we clean the surfaces of various formations (fungus, plaque, mold, etc.). This is no less effective than soaking the lining in the steam room with an antiseptic. Although impregnation of the material with an antiseptic is also required, since the bathhouse is a room in which the humidity is significantly higher than normal;
• At the next stage, we lay an additional layer of thermal insulation material. IN in this case Thin insulation materials, which are usually sold in rolls, are better suited.

Material processing

When arranging a bathhouse, many people ask a reasonable question: is it necessary to treat the lining in a steam room? It is worth noting that this is simply necessary. But it is permissible to use only substances specially designed for this purpose to treat wood in a steam room.

Important! Varnishes should not be used for processing, since at high temperatures they will emit an unpleasant and harmless chemical odor.

• Nowadays, the wood protectant EUROTEX-SAUNA has gained wide popularity. It is based on an acrylic composition, supplemented with an antiseptic and a special wax that protects the wood from high humidity. The use of this makes it possible to significantly extend the service life of wood.

In addition, this composition does not hide the grain of natural wood, creating a completely colorless coating. You can see photos of rooms whose wood has been treated in this way. The composition of the product does not include organic solvents. This allows for use in enclosed spaces;

• It should also be noted the impregnations of both “U-409” and Supi Saunasoja (). These compositions are designed specifically for use in baths. Such compositions form a colorless, resistant film on the wood, making it easy to wash the surface of the lining and protect the material from temperature changes.

Before covering the lining in the steam room with any composition, you should consult with specialists (sales consultant hardware store). The building materials market today is very dynamic and regularly offers new high-quality protective materials. In addition, you need to correctly compare these products with the type of wood being processed.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Of course, not all those who set out to create a bathhouse have a clear idea of ​​how to cover a steam room with clapboard. Therefore, it would be logical to present detailed instructions compiled by experienced craftsmen.

So, now there are four main methods of fastening the lining:.

Method one

The proposed method will ensure high-quality and fastest possible lining of the steam room. In addition, the use of this method will make it possible in the future to dismantle the lining without significant effort if, for example, some part of the material is damaged or deteriorated.

• The next panel is attached to a special groove fixed on the base surface of the panel;
• Special clamps (clasps) are placed on the inner protrusion;
• These clips are secured to the sheathing with galvanized nails or screws;

• Fastening the panels can only be done by completely fixing the adjacent elements;
• If necessary, the last of the mounted panels is trimmed and fastened in the same way as the previous ones.

Second method

This method is most convenient for those who decide to do the installation themselves; in addition, it is the most budget option. Using a finisher allows you to protect panels from damage during installation

Professional advice: it is more convenient and effective to make precise and infrequent blows with a hammer, and not to make frequent blows, as inexperienced, novice builders do.

The main disadvantage of this method is the large percentage of material damage that occurs as a result of inaccurate or very strong impacts.

Third method

This method is usually used when installing lining on seats and shelves:

1. A hole is drilled in the panel for the screw head (the depth of the hole should be approximately equal to half the thickness of the panel);
2. Then screws are screwed into the board;
3. The holes made are closed with a pin made of wood;
4. Then the surface is sanded. This method is convenient to use when installing elements completing the structure where fasteners are open.

If you still have questions, watch the training video at the end of the article. This material will help you understand the nuances of the method in more detail.

Fourth method

This method is suitable for installing exclusively old-type panels:

1. Holes for screws are drilled in the panels;
2. The chamfer of the hole is countersunk to fit the screw heads;
3. The screws are screwed into the board flush with the panel.

conclusions

We briefly introduced you to the installation of lining. Based on the information provided, you can answer basic questions on this topic. For example, which lining is better for a steam room and in what case. And everything else, of course, will determine your desire to do quality work.

In construction it is very important that the material is as natural as possible. Wood is the most environmentally friendly of all.. Wood products have a beautiful appearance and have thermal insulation properties. In addition to load-bearing and enclosing structures, wood is also used as finishing material. Very often the inside of the bathhouse is lined with clapboard. Thanks to its qualities, wooden lining has found wide application in construction.

Types of lining and classification

The lining is divided by type of wood:

Wood paneling coniferous species.

• Pine. The most common wood for lining. It has a beautiful appearance and low cost. Over time, a pine product begins to darken.
• Spruce. Northern spruce is used to make the lining. It is more durable and has a beautiful appearance. Just like pine darkens over time.
• Canadian cedar used for finishing the bath. It is not cheap, but it has excellent technical specifications and beautiful appearance.

Wood paneling hardwood.

• Oak. Handsome and durable material, easy to process, expensive.
• Aspen. Beautiful light color. Has thermal insulation properties. Well suited for a bath.
• Linden. It is very suitable for finishing a bath, because the material does not heat up much and emits a pleasant aroma.
• Alder. In a room with high temperatures, the material does not heat up. It also hardly dries out or warps.
• Abash. African oak has high strength and softness. Such wood does not shrink, warp or heat up. Has a beautiful appearance. The cost of abasha is quite high.

More often, interior lining clapboard baths are made from hardwood. The temperature in the bathhouse is high and under its influence Coniferous wood releases resins. Hardwoods have virtually no resin compounds, so no resin is released.

The type of wood from which the lining is made is also of great importance. There are 4 main varieties:

Also, the lining is divided by type of profile:

• Eurolining.
• Soft-line.
• Calm.
• Imitation of timber.
• Block house (imitation logs).
• Landhaus.
• American.

Pros and cons of lining

Advantages:

• Natural and environmentally friendly pure material which does not emit harmful substances.
• Beautiful appearance. Depending on the type of wood, the lining has various shades and texture.
• Resistance to mechanical damage.
• A comfortable indoor microclimate is created.
• Easy to install.

Flaws:

• High cost of material.
• Need for constant care behind the wood.

Methods for attaching lining to the wall

Listed below are the 5 main ways to attach lining to a wall.

The simplest and convenient way, which does not require specialization. Installation in progress using small nails and clamps. In this way, it is permissible to fasten only light lining, because... the grips are not capable of holding a lot of weight.

A clamp is inserted into the lining, which is attached to the guide rail using a nail, screw or self-tapping screw. A rail is inserted into the groove and each subsequent rail is fastened in the same way. They must be fastened tightly enough so that there are no gaps. If the last row the lining does not fit entirely, and a large gap remains, then the top row must be cut to size and secured along the guides.

Using nails. It may seem that this method is simpler than the previous one, but in practice chips, bruises and other damage to the material often occur. In addition, the process of performing the work is not very convenient and labor-intensive. Nails are driven in every 25 - 30 cm. To install a two-meter long slats, 7 or 8 nails are needed.

First, the panel is marked in the places where the nails will be driven in. Then, at an angle of 45 degrees, the nails are nailed into the edge with the groove. The panel is applied to the wall and then you can drive in nails. After installation, the caps are recessed so that the next panel of the lining easily fits into the groove. After this, the next panel is installed using a similar method.

This installation method cannot be used for thin lining, as it will break off.

This mounting option is used for old-style lining. Cladding with eurolining is somewhat different from installing older lining. The design of the product consists of fastening with screws. To avoid splitting the wood, a hole is drilled in the places where the screw is screwed in. The drill should be smaller in diameter than the screw. The hole location is countersunk to recess the screw head. The fasteners are screwed in as far as possible using a screwdriver. The caps will not be visible because they are covered by the next row of panels.

Installation of lining using a stapler and construction staples. The bracket is driven into the groove at an angle of 45 degrees. You need to have a stapler that can push the staple tightly in until it stops. In this case, the fasteners will in no way interfere with the installation of the next row of panels.

The fifth method of fastening is most often used for finishing a sauna or bathhouse. Screws act as fasteners. A hole is drilled at the installation sites and the fasteners are screwed in using a screwdriver. The screws are tightened to the point that the head is significantly recessed. To hide the screw heads, a plug is driven into the hole where it is screwed in.

Over time, under the influence of high temperatures, the wood may dry out a little, and the locations of the plugs will appear. To prevent this problem, special compounds must be applied over the plugs.

Technology for performing bath lining work

1. Preparatory work. All internal communications must be laid. The finishing material should already be purchased, unpacked and laid out in the drying room. Also, you need to have all necessary tool, to perform the work efficiently and quickly you will need:

   

   • perforator;
   • screwdriver;
   • jigsaw;
2. level;
3. plumb line;
4. painting cord;
5. square;
6. hammer;
7. pendants;
8. fasteners (nails, screws, self-tapping screws, staples, clamps).



9. Installation of guides. Covering the inside of a bathhouse with clapboards begins with the installation of guides; unplaned timber is used as a guide, which is attached vertically at intervals of 700 mm using hangers. First, the beam is fixed at the top and bottom, then along its entire height. It is important that all guide walls are in the same plane. To do this, 2-3 cords are pulled, which act as beacons, and guide rails are adjusted along them.

   The bars are installed vertically if the lining is oriented horizontally and vice versa. True and reverse rule- if the lining is oriented vertically, then the guides on the wall are arranged horizontally.

10. Frame processing. The guide structure is treated with an antiseptic to prevent the occurrence of rot, mold and mildew in wooden structure. The antiseptic also protects the wood from insects. After processing, the frame needs to be given some time to dry.



11. Space between guides filled with thermal insulation material. Most often chosen mineral wool. It is cut into mats slightly larger than the space between the guide rails. This is necessary so that the thermal insulation material fits tightly to the wall and does not fall out. It is important that mineral wool mats were not overly compacted, this will have a bad effect on the thermal insulation properties.
12. Waterproofing device. Thermal insulation material, especially if it is mineral wool, absorbs moisture, and the bathhouse is a room where there is too much of it. For this reason, the thermal insulation material defends himself waterproofing film . It should cover the entire wall area. The film is attached to wooden guides using a construction stapler.
13. Cutting lining. The required length of the lining is measured, the sawing location is marked, and the material is cut. When marking, it is important to take into account door and window openings. After this process, the walls are covered.



14. Installation of lining. Lining the inside of the bathhouse with clapboard starts from the ceiling. A gap is left around its perimeter for deformation of the material. The walls are finished from the far corner. The first panel must be secured especially firmly. Fastening is carried out using one of the methods indicated above. If the last row of the lining does not fit in size, it needs to be sawed down.

    Lining slats should not fit tightly together, because the material, saturated with moisture, increases in size.
    The wall lining should be 3 cm behind the floor.

    • For finishing openings on slopes starting rails are installed, to which the lamellas are mounted. At the joints special corner strips.
    • Lining is a flammable material, therefore it is not installed near the boiler. In this part of the building, brick walls are installed or they are sheathed with metal sheets.



15. Material processing. In the dressing room, it is better to coat the wood with varnish, which will protect and preserve it. long years. In the washing room and steam room, the lining is covered with protective wax or stain. This will give the material a beautiful shade and help preserve it for as long as possible.

Bathhouse lining requires significant funds for the purchase of material and its installation. There is an opportunity to reduce the cost of material. There is no high temperature or high humidity in the waiting room. Therefore, it does not require special finishing conditions. In the dressing room, you can make lining from coniferous wood. The floor does not have to be made of wood, but can be made of ceramic tiles.

In the steam room itself, it is best to cover the ceiling and floor walls with clapboard hardwood. In addition, all lava beds and other auxiliary structures must also be made of such material. This is due to the fact that hardwood does not emit resin and does not heat up under high temperatures, which ensures a comfortable stay in the bathhouse.