Solid wood floors with glue. Laying solid boards with your own hands. Laying solid parquet boards on plywood

Now laying solid boards has become easier, faster and cheaper thanks to the emergence of a unique adhesive backing, which has thermal, moisture and noise insulating properties.

Adhesive surface provides good adhesion, and the elastic properties of the substrate do not allow the board to move.

The flooring itself is installed without the use of glue, nails or staples, but requires special skills in installing adhesive materials.

Advantages of laying on an adhesive backing:

• Quick and relatively easy installation
• No glue, plywood, nails
• Saving on installation costs up to 3-5 times
• Excellent thermal, moisture and noise insulation
• Smoothes out uneven surfaces
• Elastic properties prevent the board from moving with seasonal changes in air humidity
• Service life more than 25 years

The process of laying solid boards in a “floating” manner on an adhesive backing.

An example of laying a solid board in a “floating” manner on a 360º adhesive backing

The requirements for a quality floor are simple:

• it should not swell, sag, creak, or “spread apart”
• must be level
• serve without repair for a long time.

Adhesive backing is ideal for this.

Thanks to its unique structure, the adhesive backing has a long service life and eliminates small permissible unevenness floor surface and ensures efficient and economical solution problems of increasing the heat and sound insulation properties of floors.

The underlay is environmentally friendly and retains its properties throughout the life of the floor covering.

P.S. But despite all the advantages of this installation method, we strongly recommend that you still contact specialists and do not install it yourself. Despite the apparent simplicity of installation, installation skills are required in both the “floating” and “classic” methods, and if you are installing for the first time, mistakes simply cannot be avoided.

Select the decor of a solid board for laying on an adhesive backing

View all characteristics of the adhesive half-sheet

Select adhesive backing from the catalog

Preparing the room before laying solid boards

The laying of solid boards is carried out at the final stage of renovation of the premises. This will minimize the risk of damage and deformation. Therefore, work on installing solid wood floors should begin only after windows, doors and walls have been installed, the subfloor has been prepared and all wet work has been completed.

It is very important that the wallpaper, plaster, paint, concrete dry thoroughly, and the humidity in the room does not exceed 40-60%.

At the same time, the humidity of solid boards should not be more than 12%.

However, the last remark about the humidity of a solid board at 12% is purely theoretical, because you still cannot reduce it and this indicator reflects the quality of production.

According to our studies of products on the market, the moisture content of solid oak or ash boards (and other European species) is 12-15%, and for exotic species, the wood of which is processed in tropical countries, about 18%. This is partly why European breeds are initially more stable in our climate.

IN mandatory Before laying solid wood planks in the room, all available air conditioning and heating systems must be activated.

The air temperature should be maintained within 18-22 °C for at least seven days before laying the solid boards.

If laying solid boards is planned on the first floor directly above the basement, then it should be thoroughly ventilated.

Requirements for the quality of a subfloor under a solid board

The subfloor on which the parquet boards will be laid must be as level as possible, which can be achieved using leveling sanding.

Maximum tolerance when leveling walls and screeds, it should not be more than 2 mm for every 2 m.

Leveling the subfloor is the most important condition when laying solid boards and any parquet.

If you do not achieve a perfectly flat surface, the solid board will begin to creak in a couple of years due to the movement of the floorboards relative to each other. The creaking of a solid board is always a consequence of an unleveled floor, and not of poor quality material.

It is very important to clean the subfloor of small debris and dirt.

Remove any shavings, small nails, or debris from it. building materials, if possible, dust, grease and glue stains.

The difference in humidity between the subfloor and the solid board laid on top of it should not be more than 4%. In this case, the humidity of the subfloor itself should not exceed 12%. You can achieve the required humidity levels by thoroughly ventilating the room and eliminating possible unwanted sources of moisture.

Sometimes dehumidifiers can help solve this problem.

In addition, it is necessary to ensure that there are no movements in rough floor. If necessary, the subfloor is further strengthened to eliminate them.

How to properly unpack and prepare solid wood for installation

In order to save yourself from unnecessary problems in the future, you should properly unpack and prepare solid boards for installation.

Remember that a solid board already laid by a master is considered accepted for quality and, even if there are defects, cannot be returned.

After the solid board has been unpacked, it should be carefully inspected and sorted by pattern and color, planning in advance how it will be laid on the subfloor.

To create the most harmonious interior set aside the boards that will best match the baseboards and thresholds for installation next to them. Determine which boards you will use for cutting and in which specific locations.

The unpacked and sorted solid board must undergo acclimatization in the room in which it is planned to be laid for at least three days.

The same applies to all materials that will be used during the installation of solid wood floors. Their humidity should not exceed 12% (theoretically), and preferably be in the range of 6-10%.

However, it is worth noting that today you cannot find a solid board with a moisture content of 6-10% on the market, even the most expensive and exclusive one. Alas, manufacturers are not ready to slow down production in order to create the ideal material.

Methods for laying solid boards on various types of subfloors

1.

Laying solid boards on concrete floors

First of all, you should form a moisture-vapor barrier that will serve as a buffer between concrete and wood. To do this, a special substrate made of foamed polyethylene, 3 mm thick, can be laid out or a layer of soil mastic can be laid. The finished barrier will ensure the stability of the massive board and protect it from deformation.

After this, a base is laid for the solid board flooring, which can be done in two ways.

The first method is “joists on the screed”.

According to this technology, as a base for a solid board wooden blocks rectangular section - logs. Such bars are attached to the concrete base using dowels and screws, which are inserted perpendicular to the future floor. Alternatively, if there is a danger of damaging the communications located under the concrete screed, you can glue the logs to adhesive or mastic containing bitumen.

The distance between the fastening points should be no more than 50 cm. After laying, the bars are leveled using a level. To adjust the height of the log, wood chips are placed or excess wood is removed with a plane.

If desired, you can fill the space between the joists with thermal insulation materials. This is justified if the flooring is laid on the ground floor of a building that does not have a basement. Then a moisture-proof film is spread over the lag, which is secured with staples. And a massive board is laid on top of it.

In the Foto correct styling plywood diagonally in relation to the solid board.
The gap size should be from 3 to 5 mm.

The second method is laying on a plywood base along a screed.

Today this is the most popular way of laying solid boards. According to this technology, moisture-resistant plywood is used as the base, the thickness of which should be 15-18 mm.

Before laying, plywood sheets are cut into strips with a width of 40 to 60 cm. Moreover, the cutting of a single sheet of plywood is carried out along the smaller of its sides. The finished strips are laid on concrete, diagonally to the future solid wood floor.

In this case, gaps are left: between the sheets - 3-5 mm, between the sheets and walls - 10 mm. It is important to understand that plywood tiles need to be laid out with a shift relative to each other in order to minimize the possibility of corners touching. Using dowels and screws, the heads of which are recessed into the material, the plywood is attached to the concrete. Each strip must have at least 9 attachment points.

An alternative option for attaching plywood to concrete is to glue it. One stripe size in this case should be at least half as large. Before laying solid boards, the plywood must be sanded using a belt sander equipped with a 40 or 60 grit belt and cleaned of dust.

2.

Laying solid boards on load-bearing wooden structures

If laying solid boards is carried out in a building that has load-bearing wooden structures, they can be used to attach the base to them under the future floor.

Before attaching the base under the floor, the existing joists must be leveled so that their maximum deviation from the plane does not exceed 2 mm per 2 m, otherwise the solid board will begin to creak over time.

Using a level, remove excess wood with a plane or place wood chips in the desired areas.

As a base for a solid board, 12 mm plywood, 18 mm OSB boards or 20 mm plank flooring can be used. Plywood and OSB boards are laid on top of the moisture-proof film in the direction of the future solid wood floor so that the edges of the boards meet on the joists, and not between them.

The gap between the sheets should be at least 2 mm, between the sheets and the wall - at least 10 mm, but not more than 15 mm, so that the opening can be closed with a plinth. Plywood and OSB boards are fastened with screws, of which there must be at least 9 pieces per sheet.

In this case, the screw heads must be recessed 3-4 mm into the material for possible subsidence of the plywood.

When used as a base boardwalk, the subfloor parts are laid diagonally to the future solid wood floor.

3. Installation on a finished wooden floor

The existing strong and high-quality wooden floor in the room must be sanded using a belt sander equipped with a 40 or 60 grit abrasive belt.

After this, you should clean the surface of the wooden floor from dust and small debris. It is recommended to lay solid boards over a wooden floor in a diagonal or transverse direction.

Application of two-component polyurethane adhesives

The best adhesives for solid wood planks are two-component polyurethane adhesives, which are used by all installers.

There are many similar adhesives on the market, fundamental differences some:

• Working time until the glue thickens. The optimal time now, which is indicated by manufacturers of modern adhesives, is 2.5, sometimes 3 hours. It is important to remember that this time is calculated for ideal conditions temperature, humidity, and also for the ideal composition inside the jar. From jar to jar, the parameters of the glue itself may also vary slightly. In reality, you need to calculate an hour and a half of glue work.
• Glue base.

  Benzene group adhesives have a strong odor, but disappear faster. Alkyd adhesives are most often odorless, but all harmful fumes take a little longer to disappear. Remember that glue that has a smell is no less environmentally friendly than one that does not smell - this is a common misconception. If odor is a major issue for the installer, we recommend the hypoallergenic Tover Tovcol PU2C adhesive.

• Strength and elasticity of the glue.

  These options have important for installation, however, from the available product cards, the buyer will never know which adhesive is stronger. Trust the opinion professional craftsmen or no less professional sellers.

Adhesives also have additional properties. For example, water-based or solvent-based adhesives shrink parquet and also transfer excess moisture into the solid board. Most adhesives leave stains when they come into contact with the varnished surface of parquet; some compounds can be removed before hardening with a cloth without leaving a mark (for example, ADESIV Pelpren PL6).

For all two-part adhesives, you need to use a wide-toothed spatula - don't forget to buy one.

Only such spatulas create the correct adhesive seam.

So, before installation, you need to thoroughly mix the two components of the glue with an electric mixer (an electric mixer allows you to do this efficiently and quickly, without reducing the working time of the glue).

Then you can pour some of the glue from the jar and spread it with a spatula. Sometimes you can see how glue is spread not on the base, but on each plank before gluing. Spreading the composition on the planks creates an insufficient layer of glue, especially in the gaps between the planks, so this method is incorrect from the point of view of adhesive manufacturers.

Correct glue line and correct use spatula.
Pay attention to how the spatula bends when pressed against the base.

The spatula must be held strictly vertically and pressed slightly into the floor - this creates the correct glue seam - grooves of glue, with only a thin film or a completely dry base underneath.

Fastening solid wood boards to the base and to each other

To attach a solid board to the base, self-tapping screws are used, the distance between which should be at least 20-30 cm.

Before this, the solid board should be drilled at an angle of 45 degrees from the ridge side. There is no fundamental difference between which side of the planks to drill from, but theoretically it is more correct to drill into a tenon. Specialized SPAX solid wood screws are the most popular for this purpose and with no immediate competitors.

It is especially important to use specialized screws for boards made of exotic, high-density woods (however, pre-drilling is required for exotic, dense woods).

Attracting the planks of a solid board to each other when screwed with self-tapping screws.

It is very important to pull the planks tightly together when screwing and leave required clearance between the boards and the walls (for most medium-sized rooms - exactly 1 cm).

Natural coating: solid board - DIY installation

To attract the planks to each other, carefully use a chisel or wedges if you have to press a tenon. Or, most often, the planks are knocked down with a hammer through a block.

Professional parquet crews often use a pneumatic gun with staples instead of self-tapping screws, which allows them to lay parquet much faster. This method is correct, but requires an initial investment in the purchase of a gun, a compressor and a supply of special staples.

Too small a gap between the walls and the parquet when the wood expands does not allow the internal tension of the material to escape, which can lead to cracking or swelling of the boards.

Too much big gap It will be difficult to cover with regular-sized skirting boards.

The first row of solid boards is always laid with the groove facing the wall. The first and last rows are fastened with self-tapping screws through the front surface of the solid board. Subsequently, the fastening points are hidden under the baseboard.

Rules for sanding solid boards and applying a protective coating to it

To process laid solid boards without a factory coating, it is recommended to use disk and belt parquet sanding machines.

It is important to understand that light sanding is ideal for solid boards, removing only varnish coating. Sanding will remove the chamfer, so when seasonal narrowing of the wood occurs, gaps will be noticeable on the floor surface.

Upon completion of sanding (if the solid board is uncoated), the surface of the solid board should be thoroughly cleaned of dust using a vacuum cleaner or brush.

Applying varnish or oil should begin the same day. After drying, it is recommended to sand each layer using a disc machine. It is recommended to apply 3 to 7 layers of varnish, which may take about 7 days. If you use a semi-gloss or glossy varnish, then in addition to strength, this affects the “mirror” appearance of the board.

After sanding, oil should be applied in 2-4 layers. Oil with hard wax does not require maintenance unless there is visible deterioration in appearance. Traditional oil needs to be renewed every 1-2 years.

The final touch is the installation of the plinth, which is carried out according to the recommendations of the specific plinth manufacturer.

After this, the installation of solid wood flooring can be considered complete.

What is a solid board
Preliminary work
Self-laying of an array of boards on a screed

Thanks to its respectable appearance and natural sophistication, solid boards are considered the highest quality material among natural floor coverings.

It is an expensive product, but its advantages are undeniable. Today, the most commonly used and simplest way to create a floor is to lay solid boards on a screed without plywood.

They arrange the surface of solid wood, as well as other wooden coverings, at the end repair work so that the material is not damaged when finishing the room. You can install the products yourself, both in city apartments and in private luxury mansions.

For ease of installation, the board has a connection with tongue-and-groove locks.

What is a solid board

These products are made with small grooves and ridges at the edges. This design of the boards allows you to quickly and easily join adjacent floorboards, and the connection is tight.

On sale you can find solid wood floorboards with a width of 12 to 20 centimeters and a length of 0.5 to 3 meters. The products are chamfered on the outside, so after installation is completed a tiny gap is visible. In the event of various types of deformations, it is filled, and the coating does not suffer.

On the back side of the products there are small transverse notches and longitudinal cuts, due to which the load on the floorboards is reduced and at the same time the tension of the fibers is reduced, preventing their destruction.

Preliminary work

There are different ways to lay solid wood flooring:

• installation on a screed without plywood;
• installation on plywood;
• creating a floating floor;
• fixation to the old floor covering.

Before laying a solid board on a screed, you should take into account that its thickness is greater than that of other products intended for installation of the finishing floor surface (for more details: “How to lay a solid board correctly: installation options and methods”).

One of the conditions for creating a high-quality floor covering is the ideal condition of the base.

The concrete base must meet a number of requirements:

1. Humidity– no more than 2%. This indicator can be easily checked using polyethylene, which is used to cover a concrete area: after 24 hours there should be no condensation on it, and the screed should not darken.

   There is another way. A rubber mat is placed on the screed and pressed on top concrete block and brick. You can also measure humidity using a special moisture meter.

2. Compressive strength- not less than 20 MPa
3. Tensile strength– not less than 6 MPa.
4. Deviation relative to horizontal– cannot exceed 2 millimeters for every 2 linear meters.

   This parameter is checked using a two-meter level.

5. The base must be clean and free of cracks. The adhesion on an uncleaned surface will be weaker, which will certainly affect the quality of the finish.

Provided that the above requirements are met, the laying of the solid wood on the screed will be done efficiently, and the floor covering will last for decades.

Experts believe that a solid board on a screed without plywood can be mounted directly on a concrete base no lower than the second floor, and the grade of concrete used must be at least M250.

In case of a significant deviation from the horizontal, self-leveling self-leveling floors are installed to level the solid and dry surface of the base.

In the absence of funds for installation finishing screed on an uneven subfloor, you can eliminate the defects yourself. Pits and cracks are covered with concrete, and using special tools all irregularities and bulges are sanded.

When the humidity level changes, wooden floorboards begin to deform linearly. As a result, fluctuations in dimensions lead to tension between the concrete base and the floor covering. If under these conditions the screed does not have sufficient strength, then voids will appear in it, it will begin to peel off, the laid boards will begin to creak and, most likely, the floor will collapse over time.

After preparatory activities completed, the packs of boards are opened and the material is taken out so that the products acclimatize before the array is mounted on the screed. To ensure air circulation, the floorboards must be placed on a stand.

Self-laying of an array of boards on a screed

When installing a massive board on a screed without plywood, you must remember that you have to work with natural wood, which always has minor cracks and irregularities.

But during the operation of the floor covering, they will not spoil the appearance of the floor, but rather emphasize the naturalness of the material. It’s not for nothing that solid wood boards are considered elite products for surface finishing.

The technology for laying solid boards on a screed involves the following procedure:

1. The cleaned base is primed using an epoxy primer, which improves the adhesion of the adhesive composition and gives increased strength to the screed.
2. The glue is applied to the finishing material and leveled with a notched trowel.
3. Initially, three rows of floorboards are laid out in the middle of the room. The place for this is determined based on the width of the products, so that the edge of the row closest to the wall is at a distance of 1 to 1.5 centimeters.

   You can also start laying boards on the screed from the wall.

4. Then each row is mounted alternately on both sides of the first three.
5. If even the slightest difference in the level of the flooring elements is detected, massive products must be loaded for a while until the polymerization of the adhesive composition is completed.
6. When laying, it is necessary to leave a gap between the boards and the wall, which should be 10-15 millimeters along the longitudinal side, and 5-10 millimeters at the end, since seasonal deformation of wood products is always present.

When a solid board is being installed, only modern products will help to lay the product on the screed. two-component adhesives, for example, elastic polyurethane and epoxy-polyurethane.

It should be noted that solid floorboards should not be used for finishing a “warm” floor: if a wooden covering is installed, it becomes unusable.

Among the advantages of solid wood flooring, one should note its durability, low thermal conductivity, excellent sound insulation and environmental friendliness. Proper care of such floor coverings natural wood can extend its service life to 100-120 years.

Master class: laying solid boards

When choosing a solid board, you should know that products made from coniferous wood deteriorate faster. For example, pine is not very resistant to mechanical stress and microclimatic changes. In order for the floor finish to serve for a long time, it is necessary to prevent high humidity indoor air.

What is a solid wood board: advantages and disadvantages
Criteria for choosing solid boards
Basic methods of laying solid boards
Preparation for installation work
Installation of solid boards on plywood
"Floating" method of array installation
Fastening solid boards to wood flooring

Floor coverings made from solid wood are now popular due to their presentable appearance and many other undeniable advantages.

When choosing an option for laying solid boards, you need to remember that only when correct installation such a floor can last for decades.

What is a solid wood board: advantages and disadvantages

The name of this floor finishing product means that it is made from a single piece of wood. This material after installation, it is very similar to a parquet board, which, unlike solid wood floorboards, is made from several wooden planks gluing method.

First of all, it should be noted that flooring made from natural wood is environmentally friendly, does not contain allergens, and has a beneficial effect on health.

In addition, it has other advantages:

• beautiful appearance, the floor surface looks presentable, as confirmed by the photo;
• good noise-absorbing and heat-insulating characteristics;
• ease of installation compared to, for example, parquet;
• resistance to aggressive factors;
• strength and long service life.

Disadvantages of solid wood floors:

• high cost, especially of products made from valuable tree species;
• installation is expensive;
• sensitivity to changes in humidity and temperature;
• the need to regularly care for the surface - varnish or oil;
• installation on a “warm floor” system is undesirable;
• flammability, susceptibility to rotting without treatment with special means;
• It is impossible to carry out an artistic display, unlike a parquet board.

When you plan to lay solid boards, the first thing you need to do is decide on the installation method.

You can make your work easier if you study in detail the features of the product and know how to choose the right product.

Criteria for choosing solid boards

The final result depends on the quality of the material for arranging the floor covering.

Therefore, when buying a massive board you need to pay attention to a number of points:

1. Quality of material and its geometry. First of all, you should inspect the surface of the boards to check for cracks and similar defects, and then the edges of the floorboards to see if firing was used to finish them.

   If it occurred, then this indicates a violation of the drying technology. Laying a solid floor from such boards will not make it possible to create a high-quality floor - it will look sloppy.

   The geometric parameters of solid wood products should allow the floorboards to be easily connected to each other. Finish finishing coating cannot have dips or protrusions, otherwise the laid surface will become uneven.

2. Product design. Before laying a solid board, you need to make sure that its appearance will match the designed interior. Choose suitable option is not difficult, since the array is presented on the market in a wide range of colors and varied structures.

   When making boards, not only ordinary wood can be used, but also exotic and rare tree species. Among them, the most popular are products made from beech - products made from it are characterized by strength, but at the same time they are sensitive to high humidity.

   Therefore, in rooms with high humidity, instead of beech boards, it is better to lay floorboards made of foliage or teak.

3. Availability of documents. Confirmation of the quality of any flooring products is the corresponding certificates of manufacturers, which contain information about a specific product necessary for consumers.

   After viewing them, you need to find out what technology was used to dry the boards. The best choice is products that were produced using the convective method. The humidity of solid wood boards should not exceed 9%.

4. Availability of GOST certificates.They confirm that the product was manufactured by serious manufacturing companies.

Basic methods of laying solid boards

When a solid floor board is chosen for arranging a beautiful floor covering, installation should be done on a prepared base.

In practice, one of several ways to create a rough surface is used - the products are mounted:

• on a concrete screed;
• on wooden logs;
• on regular plywood;
• for natural wood;
• using staples.

The installation of solid boards is most often carried out on a cement-concrete base.

Fixation is performed using special adhesive compositions. They have high performance against temperature changes and are not toxic to humans.
When starting to install the floorboards on the screed, they are checked for strength and the presence of defects.

The humidity of the base should be 6-7%, otherwise a waterproofing layer will be required.

Laying solid boards: methods and technology

The gaps in the joints are carefully glued.

Thus, when choosing a method for mounting an array on a screed, they should not be allowed to come into contact with each other. To do this, it is necessary to arrange an intermediate layer using a primer mastic and a vapor barrier film.

The next popular technology is laying solid boards on plywood.

The peculiarity of this method is that it will require the creation of a vapor barrier layer. The moisture content of the material cannot exceed 10%, and fixation is carried out with two-component adhesives.

The convenience of the method, when a massive board is mounted on logs, is that
the job can be completed quickly because no kneading is required cement mortars. Placed under the joists waterproofing layer from penofol or polyethylene film.

Laying solid boards in a floating manner involves installation using brackets. This technology can significantly reduce the time required for work.

Aluminum products are installed simultaneously with silicone expansion joints to improve edge bonding.

Sometimes the installation of massive boards is carried out on top wooden surface. The old coating must be reliable and durable and have a humidity of 8-10%. If wooden base covered with varnish, then it is removed and the planks are sanded to eliminate unevenness.

When laying the array, the boards should be placed in the same direction as in the previous covering. To fix new floorboards, self-tapping screws with an anti-corrosion coating are used.

Self-tapping screws are attached at intervals of 25-30 centimeters from one another. In order to prevent the material from splitting on the side where the tenon is located, you need to make holes.

The caps must not “protrude” above the surface; it must be possible to subsequently close it with special riveting.

Having studied all the methods of laying solid boards, analyzing their pros and cons, you can choose the option that will become optimal solution in this particular case.

Preparation for installation work

The rows between the elements of the floor covering are fixed with staples or a solid board is laid with glue.

The tools you will need to carry out the work are:

• a simple pencil and a square;
• metal ruler;
• wooden mallet;
• drill and screwdriver;
• pneumatic stapler;
• putty knife.

For fastening elements, you need self-tapping screws - it is better to purchase them with a galvanic coating and anti-corrosion properties, since they do not rust and are able to smooth out negative impact temperature fluctuations and other seasonal factors.

At the bottom of the covering there are stainless steel brackets, which are necessary for fastening the two elements - they are snapped into the grooves or fixed with screw-in screws.

Before installation begins, the solid board is unpacked and left in the room where installation is planned for about a week.

Floorboards are placed on supports to ensure air circulation around the products.

Installation of solid boards on plywood

When buying plywood for a solid board, preference should be given to sheets with a thickness of 13-15 millimeters.

The installation process is carried out step by step in a certain sequence:

1. Plywood is cut into pieces half a meter wide.
2. On concrete surface place a vapor barrier material.
3. The array is laid on plywood at a 45-degree angle with respect to the base.

   Since thermal expansion causes slight deformation of the floorboards, 3 mm gaps are left between the sheets during installation.

4. Next, the surface of the plywood is sanded.
5. After the plywood base is ready, they begin laying the array.

   They use two-component polyurethane-based glue for solid boards on plywood. Read also: “Laying solid boards on a screed without plywood with your own hands.”

"Floating" method of array installation

In the case when, due to the installation of a heated floor, preference is given to this technology, you need to ensure that the base of the covering and the array do not touch. During the installation process, structural elements are secured using board dies. The “floating” method allows for compensation for temperature changes and changes in humidity.

Fastening solid boards to wood flooring

In the case when the old wooden base does not inspire confidence, then it is better to dismantle it and replace it with another one, which is not profitable from a financial point of view, since creating a new floor covering will be very expensive. Solid wood boards are laid similarly to laminate, so you can even do this work yourself. Experts recommend starting installation from the far corners - in this case it will be possible to evaluate the results of your own efforts.