Drying oil production technology. How to protect wood with natural drying oil. What is drying oil: classification and properties

1. What is drying oil
2. Recommendations for selection
3. We make drying oil ourselves
4. Storage

Has long been used to protect wood from negative impacts: moisture, – used oil impregnation– drying oil. The treated surfaces of wooden structures acquired lasting protective properties. Today's market building materials offers a wide selection of impregnations.

What is drying oil

Film-forming liquid product – a product of thermal processing of oils plant origin using additives. Drying oil can be called boiled oil. There are other types of impregnation created from artificial components.

With the advent effective materials In order to protect wooden structures outside houses and buildings, drying oil began to be used only to cover the finishing of wooden fences indoors.

Operating principle of oil impregnation

A mass of natural oil in an open space under the influence of warm sun rays and oxygen acquires a thick consistency. Damaged thin layer the substance begins to dry slowly, and as a result of polymerization, the coating turns into a high-density film. Drying is promoted by polyunsaturated fatty linoleic and linolenic acids (glycerides).

Among the large number of oils of plant origin, hemp oil also has the highest ability to quickly dry. Sunflower, poppy seed, nut, rapeseed, castor and other raw materials almost do not thicken due to their low glyceride content. They are not subject to complete polymerization.

To significantly reduce drying time, vegetable oils are heated by adding a drier (metal compound). As a result of heat treatment chemical compounds, affecting the slowdown of the polymerization process, are broken down into inert substances. Using this technology, wood is impregnated - drying oil. Various compositions, applied in a thin layer to wood, or drying (from 6 to 36 hours), form a hard, elastic coating. On average, the compositions dry within a day.

The product impregnates upper layer wood, creating a film with high adhesion. It is used to treat surfaces before painting with oil-based compounds, which significantly reduces paint consumption. The treatment is also carried out before subsequent coating of wooden surfaces with wax.

Kinds

Building materials factories fill the market with many types of impregnations with different characteristics. They are classified as:

• natural;
• semi-natural – oxol;
• combined;
• synthetic;
• alkyd and composite.

Natural

Natural drying oil is produced according to GOST 7931-76. The product is obtained by thermal processing of natural hemp and linseed oils. The oil must not be diluted with solvents or other chemicals. Application sunflower oil excluded. A desiccant is added to the prepared mass - with manganese, cobalt or lead in a volume of 3% of the total mass of the material.

IN industrial production heated raw materials are languished (+300 ˚C) in special tanks for 12 hours. The resulting mass is polymerized or standard impregnation. Sometimes the cooking process is accompanied by air blowing. This impregnation is called an oxidized or oxidized agent.

The impregnation looks like an oily translucent substance of different shades. The liquid product has a faint sweet odor vegetable oil. Flaxseed oil is much more transparent than its hemp counterpart. Therefore, its quality is assigned premium. All natural liquids reach complete drying within 24 hours.

Semi-natural – oxol

Oxol contains natural oils or mixtures thereof (sunflower, soybean, corn, etc.), occupying up to 60% of the total volume. A prerequisite for the production of oxol is the use of up to 40% petroleum polymer resins in a mixture with drier. When producing semi-natural impregnation, it is allowed to use (GOST 190-78) petroleum-derived dryers containing manganese, cobalt, lead or mixtures thereof.

The composition of oxol includes the following components in % ratio:

• oils and resins – 55%;
• white spirit or turpentine – 40%;
• desiccant – 5%.

Unlike natural products, oxol has a sharp unpleasant smell which can last for a long time. The advantage of the product is its low price. The highest quality drying oil is considered to be oxol made from linseed oil. The impregnation is characterized by durability, increased elasticity, water resistance and hardness.

Combined

The combined compositions are similar in production method to oxol. The difference lies in the proportions of the mixture of oils (70%) and solvents such as white spirit (30%).

The purpose of impregnation is protection, coloring of wood, dilution of oil based paints. The liquid is used to coat the plaster before oil painting. Dries completely in 24 hours.

Combined drying oils are produced in two grades: K-2 and K-3. Each comes in 2 varieties.

The K-3 brand product is used for treating surfaces both indoors and outdoors of buildings and structures. They cover it street poles and wooden buildings for protection from precipitation and the appearance of negative organic formations. The second grade K-3 is slightly darker than the 1st grade, which is completely transparent.

K-2 does not have a strong odor and gives wooden structures a noble fawn tint, which is used before coating surfaces with varnish. Impregnation does not withstand negative atmospheric conditions well, so it is used only indoors.

Synthetic

This type of drying oil contains inorganic substances. They are a product of petroleum refining. Popular synthetic impregnations are slate drying oil and Ansol artificial drying oil.

Shale impregnations are made from petroleum film-forming components. A special catalyst is added to the mixture, and then the mass is diluted with shale gasoline. This product contains:

• raw materials from diesel shale oil;
• shale gasoline;
• raw materials from shale generator oil;
• solvent.

The manufacturer adds natural vegetable oils to the impregnation in a volume of up to 20%. A modified drying oil is prepared by mixing all the ingredients followed by heat treatment. Drying time – 24 hours.

Ansol is a completely synthetic product without the inclusion of vegetable oils. Impregnation is prepared from petroleum products. Petroleum-polymer drying oil for bringing into technical condition diluted with solvent. Because of this, drying oil has a sharp, unpleasant odor. To get rid of this faster, you need to ventilate the premises well. Over time, treated surfaces cease to emit an unpleasant odor.

The undeniable advantage of synthetic impregnation is its low price.. Due to intolerance sunlight Ansol is used only for interior work. The product performs well upon completion plastering works. Drying oil reliably impregnates the porous surface of the plaster and strengthens it before painting. If we compare the economic benefits of using different types drying oils, then Ansol claims first place.

The choice of impregnation type is influenced by several factors. The following items can be included in this list.

1. To treat surfaces made of expensive wood, impregnations made from linseed and hemp oil are used.
2. It is better to treat the surfaces of enclosing wooden structures from the outside with oxol or combined compounds.
3. Synthetic liquids are suitable for coating wooden surfaces in non-residential premises. They process wood supporting structures roofs.
4. Treatment large areas Ansolyu brings significant savings.
5. It is better to take drying oil in a transparent or translucent container. If sediment is detected, it is better not to buy such a product.
6. The cost and type of solvents are of considerable importance. When using a spray gun, the impregnation is diluted with a solvent in a 1:1 ratio.
7. When purchasing, it is better to contact a construction supermarket, where you can get information about drying oil from professionals.

Cost - from 200 rubles per liter. Containers with a volume of up to 10 liters are available for retail sale.

We make drying oil ourselves

If you have a home workshop, you can prepare drying oil yourself. Drying oil good quality obtained from linseed oil. But if there is nowhere to get it, they make a homemade impregnation from natural sunflower oil - this is a publicly available and cheap raw material.

The impregnation preparation process includes three stages:

• preparing the oil base;
• preparation of drier;
• final production of drying oil.

Preparing the oil base

The container is filled halfway with oil and placed on the stove. When the base is heated to 110–120˚C, the water will evaporate and foam will begin to appear.

Then the foam will subside. Continue cooking for 3–5 hours, increasing the heating temperature to 270˚C. If the edges of the pigeon feather curl up in the oil, then the heating level is sufficient.

Preparation of drier

Drying agent is an auxiliary reagent that sharply reduces the drying time of drying oil. The substance is also added to oil paints.

You can make a desiccant like this:

1. 100 parts by weight of rosin are melted at a temperature of 150 ˚C in a separate container.
2. 5 parts of manganese peroxide are gradually added to the molten mass after the foam settles again.
3. The mixture is brought to 200 ˚C and kept for 3 hours. The material should become transparent.

Final production of drying oil

The drier is carefully introduced into the oil base over low heat, monitoring the foam level. After the foam has completely subsided, the mixture is boiled for 5–10 minutes. Then the container is removed from the stove and the mixture is left to cool.

Storage

The storage conditions for viscous impregnation are simple. Store drying oil in open areas for no more than 3 days. The impregnation must be contained in a closed container. In conditions warehouse drying oil retains its qualities for about three years. If during this period sediment appears at the bottom of the vessels, then the product becomes suitable only for ignition. The temperature regime for drying oil storage ranges from –40 to +40 ˚C.

Wood is a popular material that is widely used in the manufacture of furniture, structures and other accessories that decorate our home. With all the naturalness and visual appeal wooden products, they are quite picky and require special protective treatment. Drying oil helps solve this problem.

Purpose and composition

Drying oil is a thick liquid with effective film-forming properties. In production this material from vegetable oils, and subsequently passes additional processing by oxidation reaction or by heating.

Alkyd resins can also be used as a base component. Solvents are added to the composition, as well as a substance that stimulates drying processes - a drier.

The scope of application of drying oil is quite wide. It is used, for example, to make paints oil type or during their dilution, as well as in the production of putty and primer mixtures and varnishes.

During the process of priming and sanding wood, the following is ensured:

Natural materials

To ensure 100% environmental friendliness in home improvement, you need not only to use natural material- wood, but also safe materials to process it.

Natural drying oil does not contain solvents, but is made from drying and/or semi-drying vegetable oils through deep processing.

Using flax

Drying oil can be made from linseed oil with the obligatory addition of natural drier. The result is a clear, oily liquid. After application to a workpiece or other wooden surface, the composition dries after 24 hours. Provided that it is complied with temperature regime- at least 20 degrees.

The liquid can be used for:

• priming surfaces made of wood, metal or after plastering;
• production of putty, paint, putty;
• painting various types of surfaces inside or outside the house.

Hemp drying oil

For production, the oil of the same name with a drying agent is used. The liquid is clear and oily. It is especially effective for priming substrates made of wood, metal, plaster, as well as for preparing and diluting putty, putty, and paint.

Sunflower drying oil

The film obtained after application is very elastic, but it dries for quite a long time, having a certain degree of adhesion after 24 hours. It is made from sunflower oils, and in terms of strength and moisture resistance, it lags somewhat behind the previously discussed varieties.

Semi-natural drying oil

The composition includes sunflower oil subjected to special heat treatment, volatile solvents such as white spirit, as well as driers. Specifications Oxol drying oils make it possible to use it when applying a paint coating in combination with other materials.

A homogeneous transparent or translucent liquid of brown shades ensures the appearance of a durable film on the treated surface. It is distinguished by its shine, excellent resistance to natural factors and moisture. You can coat a material of any porosity, but such a liquid is not suitable for floors.

Combined drying oil

It is produced by exposing semi-drying or drying oils to polymerization and dehumidification processes. The white spirit content in the substance is about 30%. The coating dries within 24 hours. Drying oil main sphere combined use– production of thick-coated paints.

Alkyd composition

Drying oil based on pentaphthalic, glyphthalic, and xyphthalic alkyd resins requires the use of additional solvents or oils, and includes a drier.

The material has the form of a solution that is resistant to temperature fluctuations and atmospheric factors, and is not susceptible to ultraviolet radiation. After drying, it is necessary to apply paint or varnish in several layers.

Composite drying oil

She doesn't have high quality, is the result of oil refining, as well as coal and rubber mass. This liquid has a very dark color and has a pungent odor. Finds application in the production of paints aimed at outdoor use.

The petroleum-polymer composition is used for non-critical painting work, since the surface is covered with a film without absorption into the wood. Processing requires intensive ventilation. Slate drying oil with good resistance to atmospheric factors dries within a day, but it cannot be used for painting floors and household accessories.

Features of material selection

The photo of drying oil shows its various varieties and the results of processing the blanks. The durability of the coating and its strength depend on the quality of the composition used. The following points should be taken into account:

High-quality compounds are odorless. But if it is present and sharp, then you are offered oxol or a combined variety.

Natural drying oil is different dark brown. If they sell you transparent solutions, then there is a high probability that the material is composite or counterfeit. The color palette of drying oil depends on the degree of its naturalness or artificiality.

Pay attention to the packaging and the presence of appropriate markings on it. The label must contain information about the composition, manufacturer, standard number and technical specifications.

It is also necessary to check the presence of a certificate of conformity. And the composite variety must have a hygienic certificate.

If you buy composite material, then beware of the presence of shades that exclude the transparency of the liquid. This is a sign of production from oil residues, i.e. fuse. The presence of a red color and sediment indicates that the coating will not dry under any conditions.

Cheap, very liquid drying oil with light shade– this is material from osprey. Such a film will either crumble quickly or never dry.

Drying oil is very useful material, providing high-quality coating wooden structures, protecting them from moisture and pests. But this is achieved only if the selected liquid is technical parameters corresponds to the purposes of use.

Photo of drying oil

The use of wood as a building material is becoming fashionable again - having become saturated with various types of plastic, synthetics and substitutes, people are beginning to appreciate natural purity, safety and incomparable appearance. But the tree needs serious processing. Should I use drying oil or give preference to more modern materials?

Natural materials – in search of safe ones!

If you have chosen wood for finishing your house, guided primarily by its environmental friendliness, then it will probably be important for you to comply with this condition to the end. After all, environmentally safe tree You can cover it with your own hands with so much chemicals that any sense in using this material is lost.

And here a slightly forgotten drying oil enters the arena. Of all the film-forming materials that are on the market today, it is, objectively, the most natural. This statement is easily confirmed by the fact that most drying oils consist of natural oil (hemp, flaxseed, sunflower, etc.) - percentage of content natural component from 45 to 95%.

Drying oil or, as it was called in the old days, “boiled oil” was known to master painters several centuries ago. Already in the 17th century, every artist used this material. Today, the technology for producing natural drying oils is practically no different from the methods known in ancient times. There are different types of this film former, the properties of which differ quite significantly.

Drying oils – what you need to know?

No matter how many manufacturers there are, the production technology is generally the same for all - vegetable oil, subject to heat treatment, is mixed with driers after filtration. Driers are metal compounds that accelerate the polymerization process of the oil film. Cobalt, lead, manganese, iron, lithium, strontium - the very name of these metals raises serious doubts about the safety of the resulting compounds. It should be noted that GOST, which regulates the production of this material (GOST 7931-76), was developed back in the USSR, and has long required a thorough revision.

If you choose a composition, then look for necessary information on the label, what kind of drier was used - cobalt drier is considered relatively safe. According to GOST, it should be from 3 to 5%. Exceeding this figure leads to too high a rate of polymerization of the drying oil, and the process does not stop even after drying, which subsequently leads to darkening and cracking of the layer. This is why artists today still use oils and paints without driers.

Is it possible to do without driers? Of course it is possible. Although this is rare, if you wish, you can still find such compositions, or compositions with a minimum content of this component. In fact, they are the ones who can best protect wooden structures from the occurrence of rot. Conventional drying oils with drying agents completely harden in 24 hours, and in hot and windy weather even faster, while compositions without drying agents can harden up to 5 days. If you dissolve oil paint with this composition, its drying time will also increase.

Such a long polymerization period allows the oil component to penetrate as deeply as possible into the wood fibers, which is why the wood will better repel moisture and resist fungus and wood-boring beetles.

In the case of driers, oils do not penetrate as deeply within 24 hours. The film formed on the surface of the wood can peel off and collapse over time, causing all your efforts to go down the drain. That's why vintage wooden buildings, treated with drying oils without drier, have been perfectly preserved to this day, while modern wooden structures require constant care with your own hands.

The natural rate of polymerization of natural vegetable oils depends not so much on the production technology, but on the quantitative content of glycerides of polyunsaturated fatty acids, such as linoleic and linolenic acids. The most high content Flaxseed (GOST 5791-81) and hemp (GOST 8989-73) oils boast glycerides - 80% and 70%, respectively. For comparison, sunflower oil, which is also often used for inexpensive drying oils, contains about 30% linolenic acid glycerides, and therefore, even in the presence of drier, dries several times slower. Olive oil It is practically devoid of the ability to harden; over the years it will only thicken, and castor oil does not thicken at all.

According to existing GOST, natural drying oil should consist of 97% natural vegetable oil. However, manufacturers often break this rule in an effort to improve the hardening speed. It is easy to determine this with the acquired knowledge - if drying oil based on sunflower oil, according to the manufacturer, hardens faster than in 24 hours, the amount of driers in its composition clearly exceeds the 3% established by GOST. And therefore, from the point of view of environmental safety, it will be more harmful than drying oil based on linseed oil, which hardens in the same period.

The requirements for production technology are also described in GOST 7931-76 and have also not been revised for a long time. During the cooking process, vegetable oils undergo simmering at high temperatures ah - at a temperature of about 300 ° C they are heated and kept for about 12 hours. Further, the technology may differ - drying oil obtained by heat treatment without blowing with air is called standard (polymerized), and compositions that have undergone blowing are called oxidized, or oxidized. Natural oil drying oil has a sweetish aroma of vegetable oil, its color varies from light brown to dark brown, almost black, and it takes a long time to dry.

Not natural - drying oils are different!

The closest to natural drying oil is the combined one - these compositions contain about a third of the solvent, often white spirit. This makes it possible to reduce the cost of production and offer the buyer a product that dries in less time. high speed. The use of solvent-based drying oil fits perfectly into exterior repairs - it’s both quick and reliable, and the smell will quickly disappear.

If you dilute vegetable oils even more, you get the so-called oxol, the production of which is regulated by GOST 190-78. – this is the obligatory 55% of natural oil, the remaining 45% is divided between solvents and driers. Oxol dries much faster due to the active evaporation of the solvent, and therefore it is convenient to use it in outdoor work with your own hands. In internal applications, its use, as in the case of a combined one, is not recommended - due to the solvent, the composition has a sharp, unpleasant odor, which may persist even after the layer has hardened.

The low cost of oxol makes it popular among the masses. Oxol is used to dilute oil paints and enamels, since by itself it cannot adequately protect wooden structures. If you choose oxol, we recommend giving preference to more expensive compositions based on linseed oil - they create a strong and elastic film on the surface of the wood, and such drying oil dries faster.

Alkyd drying oil is a film-forming composition, the main component of which is alkyd resin (glyphthalic, xyphthalic or pentaphthalic), as well as modified oils and solvents. Objectively, this is the most acceptable combination of price and quality - alkyd compositions withstand temperature changes well and withstand exposure atmospheric phenomena and are little susceptible to ultraviolet radiation. Is post-processing necessary? Necessarily! This drying oil dries for about a day, after which at least two layers of varnish or paint should be applied.

The last place in terms of the quality of the created coating and its characteristics is occupied by composite drying oil. However, it is difficult to call it drying oil - it is a petroleum product that has a similar purpose, for example, to thin paint. There is not even a corresponding GOST for the production of such compositions. In appearance, such compositions are easily distinguished by high degree transparency. Composite drying oil takes longer to dry and is poorly absorbed into the surface of the wood. This material should only be used for covering temporary structures or to dilute inexpensive paint.

Natural drying oil can be easily identified by its dark brown color and characteristic sweetish aroma of heat-treated vegetable oil. If there is a strong smell of chemicals, it is no longer a natural drying oil, but a combination or oxol. There should be no sedimentary formations, stains or lumps inside the jar in all cases. You have every right to demand a certificate of conformity from the seller.

You should be doubly careful with composite drying oils, since such compositions can be toxic, and therefore high-quality drying oils are accompanied by a hygienic certificate. Various shades the composition may indicate the presence of residual oils (fuse) - composite drying oils should not have any color at all. Fuzz is the reason that drying oil takes a very long time to dry. If the so-called osprey (an oil refining product) also penetrates into the composition, then the drying oil will simply never dry out. The presence of such inclusions can also give off a pronounced odor.

It should be remembered that all drying oils are fire hazardous. Their use and storage should be away from sources of fire and heat. While the drying oil is drying, do not use electronics or smoke indoors. Don't forget to purchase a fire extinguisher and other safety equipment.

Drying oils are liquid film-forming compositions, which are products of processing vegetable oils or fatty alkyd resins with the addition of driers to accelerate drying. Drying oil is intended for the production of thickly grated, ready-to-use oils, alkyd paints, as well as for diluting these paints and bringing them to working viscosity before use. Drying oil has some uses for impregnation and priming of wooden surfaces before painting.

Making drying oil.

To improve the properties of drying oil, rosin, low molecular weight rubbers, and other additives are introduced into them, which explains their name - “composite”.

Since vegetable oils are valuable food raw materials, and the properties of drying oil as a film-forming agent are not so high, the main directions of development of the varnish and paint industry include the replacement of drying oil with more advanced materials.

Production of natural drying oil.

Natural drying oil is produced by heat treatment (compaction) at a temperature of 270-280°C (with or without air purging) of drying oils with the addition of driers.

To make natural drying oil, linseed, hemp and other drying refined oils are used. Lead-manganese or manganese-lead-cobalt linoleates, as well as naphthenates, are usually used as drying agents for natural drying oils. Oil polymerization is carried out in stationary steel reactors equipped with fittings for introducing liquid drier.

Natural oxidized drying oil is obtained by compacting linseed, hemp or other drying oil by heating and blowing air in the presence of a drier.

Production of combined drying oil.

Combined drying oil and drying oil "oxol" different brands is obtained by sequentially heating the oil (drying, semi-drying or a mixture of both), oxidizing the oil by blowing air at a temperature of 150-160°C in the presence of a drier to the required viscosity and diluting with white spirit to a given content of non-volatile substances.

Making castor oil.

Castor drying oil is made by dehydration and polymerization of castor oil, followed by esterification with glycerin (to reduce the acid number below 10) and dissolving the resulting prepared oil in white spirit with the addition of a drier. Castor drying oil contains ~46% (wt.) of prepared castor oil, ~50% (wt.) white spirit, ~4% (wt.) (in terms of metal) drier - a mixture of linoleates: lead 1.4% (wt. .), manganese 1.6% (wt.) and calcium - 1.0% (wt.).

Preparation of alkyd drying oil.

Alkyd drying oils (glyphthalic, pentaphthalic and xyphthalic) are obtained by diluting the corresponding fatty alkyd resins of a certain viscosity with white spirit and introducing a drier.

Production of other drying oils.

Other drying oils are prepared in various ways. Thus, rubber drying oils are obtained by heat treatment of sunflower oil and modifying it with liquid rubber of the SKDP-N brand, diluting with white spirit and adding lead-manganese drier.

Synthetic drying oils.

There is a group of materials that are conventionally called synthetic drying oils. These are various by-products of petrochemical production that can form films when dried. As a rule, these are low-quality materials, which, however, can be used for non-critical work, impregnation of porous surfaces, temporary protection, etc. Such materials include, for example, polydiene drying oils.

Due to the lower quality of synthetic drying oils compared to natural ones, a negative attitude towards all synthetic materials as inferior substitutes, surrogates. Therefore, chemists involved in the development, production paint and varnish materials, must, based on an in-depth study of the properties of raw materials, objectively assess their positive, negative sides and give the consumer recommendations on the use and operation of these materials. Consumers should strictly follow these recommendations, since synthetic drying oils are less versatile. The scope of application of synthetic drying oil is limited.

Introduction of drying agents (driing) into drying oils.

In the process of obtaining drying oil, it is necessary to introduce the optimal amount of driers. In this case, a small amount of drying agent may be ineffective to ensure the required drying rate, and an excessive amount of drying agent may not only not speed up, but even reduce the drying rate of the oil. In addition, the use of a drying agent containing 2 or 3 metals (polymetallic drying agents) increases the drying rate of drying oils.

At oil and fat industry enterprises, lead, manganese, and cobalt linoleates are most often used in the production of drying oils.

Precipitated naphthenate drying agents are most widely used in the production of drying oils, as they are more economical than fused resinates and linoleates.

Drying oil drying speed.

The rate of drying oil drying is determined both by the quality of the starting raw material and by the type and quantity of the added drying agent.

Drying oil containing polymetallic drying agents has a drying speed much greater than drying oil containing monometallic drying agent. For example, when lead or manganese drier is introduced into linseed oil, it dries in 20 hours and 12 hours, respectively, and when lead-manganese drier is introduced - in 7.5 hours; with the introduction of calcium drier or lead-manganese-calcium drier linseed oil dries in 32 hours and 6 hours respectively.

The drying of drying oil is greatly influenced by temperature and relative air humidity. When the temperature increases from 17 to 25 °C, the drying rate of drying oil with cobalt drier increases by 1.3 times, and with manganese drier - by 3.9 times. Drying oil containing 0.05% (wt.) manganese dries at a relative air humidity of 70%, twice as fast as at 97% humidity.

Drying oil or "boiled oil" (as it was called in ancient times) is liquid composition forming a film that is formed as a result of processing vegetable oils (by oxidation or prolonged heat treatment) or fatty alkyd resins, also called driers. Drying oil is used as a protective impregnation for a variety of surfaces, as a primer before painting, as a base for different types of paint, and even acts as a coating for interior decoration.

Based on its components, drying oil is classified into the following types:

1. natural;
2. semi-natural;
3. synthetic.

Most wide use on this moment found the following types: natural, oxol drying oil and combined. In addition, alkyd and even composite ones are often used.

According to GOST, the product in question must consist of at least 97% natural vegetable oil (drying or semi-drying, as well as mixtures thereof, mainly flax oil, occasionally sunflower, soybean, hemp oil).

During production, oils are exposed to prolonged exposure to high temperatures (at least 300°C) for 12 hours; the next step is the use of air blowing.

As a result, we get an oily, opaque, thick liquid consistency of a rich brown and sometimes greenish color with a slight smell of the base oil.

Drying oil based on flax oil looks like a light-colored liquid, transparent and oily.

Its main purpose is to perform the following tasks:

• primer various surfaces: wood, metal or previously plastered;
• manufacturing and obtaining the required consistency of thickly rubbed paint in light colors, putty, paste for lubrication;
• as a paint composition light color used indoors and outdoors for painting metal structures, window and door openings, flooring.

For complete drying room temperature it will take no more than a day.

Drying oil from hemp oil is dark in appearance and due to this it is mainly in demand, just like drying oil from flax oil, but when you need to get dark colors. It dries similarly in no more than a day.

Drying oil made from sunflower oil dries much worse and will require much more time than a day to dry completely. In addition, although the film turns out to be quite elastic, it is inferior to the drying oils discussed above according to such indicators as:

• hardness;
• strength;
• water resistance.

Table 1. Indicators of oil drying oils.

Representatives of this species also received their second name “oxol”; technologically they are also made from oils, but subjected to oxidation, with the addition of solvents and driers. In this case, the percentage of oil is 55%, the solvent (white spirit is most often used) is at least 40%. Due to this composition, the liquid has a rather unpleasant and pungent odor, which can persist for some time even after drying.

In terms of cost, oxol is much more economically profitable than natural, but at the same time it has practically no differences in basic properties and is almost identical in appearance.

The most valued is oxol made from flax oil - the film of such a product is hard, elastic, water resistant and, notably, has the greatest durability.

To reduce the cost even further, it is also produced from sunflower oil, but its film characteristics are significantly lower than those made from flax oil.

Drying oil combined

This type of drying oil is almost identical to semi-natural ones, except for the percentage: the percentage of oil is about 70% and 30% remains as a solvent. They are obtained by polymerization and dehydration of drying and semi-drying oil. The main direction for using this product is the production of thick-based paints. Brands K-2, 3, 4, 5 are commercially produced. Complete drying time does not exceed a day.

Table 2. Indicators of combined drying oils.

Alkyd drying oils

Thermochemical processing of semi-drying and non-drying oil gives the resulting alkyd drying oil a high drying ability. In addition, in terms of the totality of its properties, it has higher values ​​for hardness, durability, water resistance and weather resistance than oxol drying oils. Thereby this type is considered as more promising, since it allows reducing the cost of vegetable oil for production. The only drawback is thickening during storage, which is due to the fact that free fatty acids, which a large number of react with mineral pigments and insoluble metal soaps appear. This does not allow the product to be used for the production of thickly grated paint, but does not prevent it from being used en masse for diluting them to the required consistency.

This type is currently considered the cheapest and this is what has made it quite widely used. After all, the main component is not natural oil or resin, and their substitutes, most often - various products obtained from oil refining. The composition of such drying oils may be different, since they are produced not on the basis of GOST, but according to technical specifications. They also differ significantly in appearance - the color is often light, and the transparency is much higher than that of oil-based compositions. Also, the disadvantages include a very pungent odor and a longer drying process. The most common representatives are slate drying oil and, of course, ethinol.

Shale drying oil looks like a darkish liquid, as noted, there is a pungent odor and is a derivative of the process of oxidation of shale oil with further dissolution in xylene. It dries in a little over a day. It has good weather resistance. The main direction of use is dark tinting, diluting paints to the required consistency, which are used mainly for outdoor work and sometimes indoors for painting metal, wood and plaster surfaces. It is prohibited to use this drying oil for application to sexual materials and household items.

Drying oil ethinol, on the contrary, looks like a transparent liquid of a lightish tone, with the same specific odor and is produced from waste obtained from the production of chloroprene rubber.

After application, the film dries quickly, shines, is very hard, resistant to alkali and acid, but, unfortunately, has low weather resistance.

Often this type is used as an additive to other drying oils, but not more than 15%. The main direction was the production of paint and primer for metal based on it.

Table 3. Indicators of synthetic drying oils.

Applying drying oil

Work order

1. Before starting work, it is necessary to clean and degrease the surface to be treated.
2. If the work uses a composition based on semi-natural drying oil, then application is recommended only on a dry surface.
3. Using drying oil and paint and varnish products based on it, it is recommended to apply using a brush, roller or spray gun.

The average working consumption when using semi-natural drying oil is from 150 to 200 g. on cubic meter. As already noted, drying time with natural drying will take no more than a day.

Drying oil storage

Based on the fact that drying oil contains oil and solvents, it belongs to explosive and fire hazardous materials, therefore, in the room where work is carried out, natural ventilation or equipment must be provided forced ventilation in explosion-proof design. If material gets on human skin, wipe it off and rinse well with soapy water. When storing drying oil, you must ensure that the container is tightly closed and protected from moisture and sunlight, and is located far from fires and electrical appliances. When thickening, you can dilute the drying oil with any solvent available to you, suitable for oil paints in a ratio of 1:10.

Selection of drying oil

Before purchasing drying oil, you need to take a good look at what’s in the container. First, you should determine by color whether it corresponds to the declared type of product. In addition, you should carefully read the description of the components and check whether it complies with GOST if you purchase semi-natural or natural drying oil. They will have a certificate of conformity, but the composite ones will only have a hygienic certificate. In general, you should be careful when using the latter, since it is toxic and it is important to note that there should be no oil residues (the so-called fus) and osprey (oil refining residues) in it, otherwise the drying process will become endless. And finally, it should be noted - carefully inspect the liquid for homogeneity; there should be no sediment or mechanical particles present.

As noted earlier, the main purpose of these products is to process various surfaces; they are also indispensable in the production of paints. If you focus on surface treatment, then drying oil for wood is excellent. It is used both for impregnation of products and walls in general. But to carry out external works It is recommended to apply drying oil only for preparation before further painting. And it would be more optimal to use oxol or alkyd drying oil. Natural would be better suited for interior work (due to environmental friendliness and lack of odor) and to obtain the required consistency of paints.

Almost all types are used in the manufacture of paints. So, natural becomes the basis for thickly grated ones, and alkyd is an excellent base for oil-based ones. Only composite is not used due to low quality.

materials on the topic

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The fashion for natural materials in construction, furniture production, and interior decoration has already become a tradition. And it is wood that continues to be in trend due to its environmental and aesthetic properties. But, unlike artificial materials, wood coverings and structures can deteriorate under the influence of unfavorable factors external environment such as moisture, direct sunlight.