Color for wax. How to coat wood with linseed oil: impregnation, tinting. Examples of processing wooden houses with colorlacquer pigment pastes. photo

Description: Provides perfectly even surface painting even with uneven application. Semi-matte gloss. It is used as an independent colored coating for wood, or for tinting wood before applying “Linseed oil boiled with wax, No. 2”, which imparts high water repellency and a silky shine. Can be tinted in any way universal pastes. After drying, the coating is transparent, emphasizing the wood grain. Does not crack or peel when wood changes in size. No solvents.

Purpose: For interior works and external works (walls, ceilings, structures, windows, furniture, floors, etc.). For unpainted wood and cork surfaces. For outdoor use, any topcoat overlay is recommended.

Compound: Vacuum-boiled linseed oil, ground with aqueous silver salts, essential oil pine trees.

Application: Clean the surface from dirt and dust and dry. Mix the oil thoroughly in the entire container, pour into an empty container and color. Apply the 1st layer with a roller or brush, without excess, at T>+12..15ºС. For a more saturated tone, after 1 day you can apply the 2nd layer (further, if necessary, the 3rd). For a more contrasting tone, as well as on hard rocks and surfaces with wear (floors, bath shelves, furniture, etc.), after applying each layer, wipe off the excess with a cotton cloth. Before applying “Linseed oil boiled with wax, No. 2”, dry the surface for at least 8 hours.

Tinting: Mix thoroughly with any universal tinting paste in an amount of up to 1-3% by volume and apply according to the instructions.

Cleaning the instrument: Wash the instrument and contaminated skin areas with soap and water.

Storage: In the range from +5 to +30ºС, shelf life 18 months. Do not freeze.

Precautionary measures: Do not take orally. Keep away from children. Work away from fire, switched on electrical appliances and hot objects. Store oiled materials in a damp state or in a fireproof sealed container - self-ignition is possible if they are stored in large volumes. When working, ensure good ventilation. Do not use if you are allergic to natural oils and bee products.

Colored tinting oil for wood

Colored tinting oil for wood appeared relatively recently. In fact, why is it necessary? color tinting oil, if there stains? The fact is that stains- These are chemical dyes that are soluble in water or alcohol. For all its attractiveness, stains most often have a serious drawback - low light fastness. This means that outdoors or in a sunny interior stains will “burn out”, i.e. discoloration on the tree.

The solution is in application. colored oils. The fact is that they usually use pigments - solid insoluble dyes, very finely ground into the product. Pigments, especially mineral ones, as a rule, have high light fastness and do not “fading” in the sun. Therefore, high-quality colored oil for wood can be used for both interior and exterior work.

But also with tinting oils and waxes for wood There are problems: they can only be tinted with special pastes, which, as a rule, are offered by manufacturers of wood products. These are expensive pastes - their price is usually 7-8 times higher than conventional universal tinting pastes. Regular inexpensive all-purpose pastes from the store simply do not mix with oils and waxes for wood.
There is an option to use imported tinting systems, for example, Tikkurila, Akzo Nobel, etc. But this, firstly, is not always available for non-branded paints, and secondly, it is even more expensive than “branded” colors for oils and waxes. If we add to this the limited range of colors of “branded” pastes, it turns out that tinting oils and waxes for wood– expensive, and the range of colors is not wide.
True, you can find ready-made colored tinting oils, but the same problems exist here - an unreasonably high price, a small variety of colors, in addition, you cannot choose the tone saturation, since the color is already ready.

But there is a simple solution - “Finno-Ugric Secrets” are tinted with ANY universal pastes from any store - choose desired color, its saturation (concentration of the paste), and do not pay extra - after all, the pastes used are the most common ones. You can also use “branded” pastes for our products, and expensive tinting systems - all this will also work. We simply offer the simplest and cheap way get color tinting oil.

Of all the products in the Finno-Ugric Secrets series, they are perfectly tinted, Wood oil for tinting No. 3 and . We do not recommend tinting only, because... it contains a lot of wax and is therefore thick, which will impair the uniformity of coloring when applied with a brush or roller. To tint wood under it, we recommend the first layer Tinting oil No. 3.

Let us especially focus on Wood oil for tinting No. 3. This is not a ready-made color tinting product, but a tinted base. This is the easiest and most cost-effective way to tint wood indoors or outdoors (on the street, additionally use a finishing coat for exterior use). In the interior it is used independently, or as colored impregnation under .
Independent use wood oils for tinting, without others finishing coatings, gives a matte wood surface.
It is suitable for any further coating of wood - be it oil or wax any manufacturer, or traditional varnishes and impregnations. Just take ours tinting oil No. 3, choose any universal tinting paste, tint it and get the desired color and saturation. This is a very simple and inexpensive solution.

Is our wood oil for tinting does not contain wax and has an optimal viscosity - not too thick (so that there are no traces from a brush or roller), and not too liquid (so that there are no drips and splashes, like from stains). You can apply our color tinting oil even across the fibers, the color will still be uniform. Just be sure to thoroughly prepare the surface of the wood with a suitable abrasive to achieve the most uniform surface possible.

In our company wood oil for tinting, like great alternative colored tinting oils, You can only wholesale. For this with us. In addition, now high-quality colored tinting oils Can buy retail for a very favorable price ours.

Linseed oil– a natural substance obtained by cold or hot pressing of flaxseeds. Pure oil can be used on its own finishing coating, but in the untreated state it is ineffective due to its low ability to polymerize (dry).

When talking about impregnating wood with linseed oil, they usually mean using drying oil. This is a modified composition heat treatment and the addition of chemical additives that accelerate the polymerization process. Drying oil is also called “boiled” or “boiled” linseed oil.

Features of finishing with raw oil and drying oil

When treating wooden products with pure linseed oil, you should be prepared not only for long drying, which can take up to 3 days (for each layer), but also know a number of important features. The raw product is actively absorbed into the structure of the wood, so coating the wood with linseed oil has to be done in 5-7 or more layers. When it dries on the outside, it does not polymerize well on the inside, which is why a seemingly dry product can leave oil stains for a long time. Exposure to ultraviolet light significantly speeds up the drying process. In the sun, treated wood can dry out in 6-8 hours, but the tone of the coating will change: it will become yellowish or even slightly brown.

Drying oil, thanks to its high polymerization rate, has completely different properties: it dries quickly, is not so actively absorbed, and does not change its color. This makes it more practical to use. Regardless of the conditions, the answer to the question of how long drying oil dries is clear - no more than a day (at 20°C). This distinguishes it favorably from raw flaxseed oil. Further speaking about this type finishing, we will mean linseed oil.

Where is the best place to apply this finish?

Impregnation of wood with linseed oil does not provide solid protective film resistant to scratches and abrasion. But this view decorative finishing They are valued for other things, first of all, - environmental friendliness, antiseptic properties, the ability to emphasize the texture of wood and preserve it from cracking.

Flax drying oil is used for finishing products used indoors. It is optimal for covering furniture surfaces that are not subject to intense abrasion, wooden walls and ceilings. She's being treated wooden dishes, Kids toys. As a decorative and protective finish, linseed oil is appropriate to apply to the surface of valuable wood species to maximize the preservation of their natural qualities.

How to coat wood with linseed oil?

Preparation. The oil is applied to a dry and sanded surface. Wood moisture content should be at least 15%. It is recommended to carry out work at relative humidity air no more than 80%. When applying the composition to oily wood, the prepared surface is additionally wiped with white spirit.

Application. For work use a brush, swab or not fleecy fabric. The composition is evenly distributed on the surface and allowed to penetrate into the wood structure for 15-30 minutes. Excess oil that is no longer absorbed is wiped off with a rag or swab along the fibers. To avoid staining, ensure that the oil is evenly distributed on the surface.

Every new layer applied after complete polymerization of the previous one with preliminary grinding. The number of layers required (in the case of drying oil from 1 to 4) depends on the specific use of the product and the type of wood (small-vascular species require fewer layers due to low absorbency).

The complete drying time for each layer is up to 24 hours.

How to restore oil coating?

Over time, the surface impregnated with linseed oil changes its color, begins to look dry, or wears off. This coating is short-lived, but this disadvantage is compensated by the ease of its restoration. When applying a second coat, the oil will hide all scratches and restore the appearance of the wood. If desired, linseed oil can be tinted with pigments, achieving the desired color shades. For products not subject to intensive use, the restoration procedure is carried out every two to three years.

What is oil wax and how to make it yourself?

Linseed oil with wax is an effective decorative and protective coating that gives wood high moisture-proof properties and increases its wear resistance. Impregnation adds a silky shine to surfaces and emphasizes the natural qualities of wood. Suitable for processing light and dark wood. Completely natural impregnation is optimal for finishing wooden floors, stairs, doors, furniture and other items subject to intense wear.

It is not difficult to prepare linseed oil and wood wax yourself. The easiest way: add grated oil to oil heated in a water bath. beeswax and bring to a homogeneous consistency. The classic proportion by weight is 1:1. The ratio of wax and linseed oil can be varied to create compositions varying degrees viscosity: from thick mastics to liquid impregnations, penetrating deep into the wood structure.

How to avoid spontaneous combustion?

The process of oil oxidation upon contact with air is accompanied by an increase in temperature, which can lead to spontaneous combustion of oil-vapor rags, tampons, sponges, etc. Before disposal, all consumables that were used for wiping off linseed oil should be thoroughly dried in a straightened state outside the room, or better yet, soaked in water or immediately burned. To store the dispenser and other tools in contact with oil, use airtight containers.

Color for wood: preparation of tinted varnish, oil and impregnation

The beauty of wood is that it looks great on its own, you just need to show its texture. Color can be used to obtain the desired shade. Sometimes, for example, light wood needs to be slightly darkened, and it is in such a situation that color comes in handy.

Wood treated with tinted oil

Understanding the terms

Tinting wood varnish (as well as stain, impregnation and other means) means gradually adding dye until it acquires the desired shade. That is, color is a dye that is gradually added to the solution.

Note!
For each type of wood treatment product, you should use a different type of color.
Otherwise, it may simply not dissolve when stirred, resulting in a suspension that cannot be used for processing.

As for which color to choose, it is recommended to stick to the color chart when purchasing it. It is also useful to know that colors that use organic pigments are not particularly resistant to light. Therefore, for outdoor work it is better to use a color that uses inorganic pigments.

In the photo - a color map for selecting the desired shade

There are several hundred shades of color, just the most common types of coloring wooden stairs include about 50-100 shades. But if suddenly the color palette is not enough, you can always mix 2 different colors and get your shade.

In this case, it is recommended to first experiment with a small amount of color and test the resulting tinted varnish or stain on an unnecessary piece of wood. A sign that everything went well can be considered a smooth surface after drying, the absence of drips and uniform coloring.

First you need to test the tinted varnish or stain on a piece of wood.

How to tint correctly

In a nutshell, the instructions for tinting are that the dye is slowly added to the stain, paint, etc., after which it is simply mixed thoroughly. The dye is added gradually and when the liquid reaches the desired shade, you can proceed to processing the wood. However, there are a number of nuances, depending on what needs to be prepared - varnish, stain or paint for wood.

Preparation of tinted varnish

The main purpose of the treatment is to create a durable film on the surface of the wood; after the varnish has dried, it will protect the wood from moisture penetration into it, and the texture will also appear. Tinted wood varnish differs from regular varnish in that after processing the wood texture not only appears, but is also painted in the appropriate shade.

Sometimes even famous manufacturers can make mistakes in the color chart, so it makes sense to take care of preparing the varnish of the desired shade with your own hands. Dyes are usually sold in the same stores as the wood treatment products themselves. You can even try to negotiate with the operator of the coloring machine and the color can be cast into your container. It's simple perfect option, but it all depends on the mood of the employees.

The required color can be obtained from the tinting machine operator

You can try to do tinting using improvised means. For example, there are references to successful experience adding water stain to acrylic varnish (a kind of color for wood varnish). The resulting solution is quite pale (even with a high concentration of stain), so it is suitable in cases where strong darkening is not needed.

Regarding the processing process wooden product, then it is recommended to adhere to the following sequence:

the surface is carefully polished. immediately before applying a layer of varnish, you need to wipe the surface to remove dust;

The surface must be perfectly smooth

then the first layer of tinted varnish is applied;

Note!
The entire product is varnished at once; in no case is it recommended to break the surface into sections.
If you prepare the next batch of varnish later, it is unlikely that you will be able to get the same shade, but the difference will be noticeable.

Wood tinting is done in at least 2 layers. But if the surface is quite porous, and the varnish itself is not very saturated in color, then the number of layers can be increased to 3-4;
It is recommended to make the last layer colorless.

Tinted oil and impregnations

regular oil paints. They can be mixed at room temperature;
You can also use gouache. but so that the water does not interfere with the process, the mixture will have to be heated, the water will evaporate;

You can use gouache to tint oil.

in the past, people also used dyes such as ordinary ash. For example, tinting wood oil with ash will allow you to achieve a dark gray or even black color, it all depends on the concentration of the dye. Soot, colored clay and other natural materials can also be used;

A dark color can be obtained by mixing soot or ash with oil.

if you buy a dry color and mix it with oil, you will get an analogue of the purchased one oil paint. Since their prices are comparable, there is no point in messing around with mixing oil and dye; it’s easier to just buy paint.

It should be remembered that when working with oil, too high a concentration of dye gives a more saturated color, but the properties of the oil are lost. That is, it no longer protects the wood from moisture so well and over time the coating will need to be renewed. So the color for wood oil should be added with an eye to the balance between the properties of the oil and the color saturation.

In the case of impregnations, the color after treatment is usually secondary, but even at this stage it is possible to ensure that the wood acquires a noble appearance. If a part of the structure is being processed that will not be visible, then iron oxide can be added to the solution, just so that it can be seen which part is processed and which is not.

Iron oxide will give a bright red color to the wood.

Tinting of wood impregnation can be done to imitate red or any other noble wood. Pastes YF, GO, KF and coalescent are used as dyes. By weight, the concentration of these substances in total does not reach 4% of the weight of the impregnation. But changing the concentration even by a fraction of a percent gives a spectrum of colors from camouflage green to dark chocolate, so it’s just limitless for experimentation.

Summarizing

Tinting varnishes, oils and wood impregnations is a creative process, and therefore very exciting. By adjusting the concentration of dye in the wood treatment liquid or oil, you can achieve almost any shade. As a result, even simple pine looks exquisite after processing.

This article shows an example of use acrylic varnish, tinted with ordinary water-based stain.

http://rubankom.com

Oil impregnation is one of the simplest and at the same time effective ways protective and decorative processing wood. Today we will talk about the types of oils, the differences in compositions for interior and exterior work, as well as the technique for impregnating wooden surfaces and wood products.

Wood oil - differences and classification

Coating carpentry with oil can be called, without exaggeration, the most environmentally friendly and in a safe way wood processing. This is because the oils contain either absolutely natural or inert chemical compounds. Let's make a small disclaimer right away: there are wood oils that contain volatile solvents, but after drying such a coating remains absolutely harmless.

Almost all wood oils are made on the basis of linseed oil, or more precisely, linseed or other natural drying oil. Characteristic feature This material has an extremely high tendency to polymerize. Pure oil is almost never used for wood processing. The drying oil base can also be hemp, tung or other origin, the main differences are expressed in the conditions that promote thickening and polymerization.

Oils vary greatly in their technical specifications: viscosity, density, type and content of solids, volatile solvents and special additives. All this not only affects performance coating, but also completely determines the application technique and the nature of interaction with a certain type of wood. On the other hand, oils are classified according to decorative effect, that is, according to such characteristics as the intensity of the texture and the depth of change in the color of the wood.

Viscosity differences

IN carpentry There are about two dozen common types of wood, differing in density, porosity and vessel sizes. In each individual case, the oil must be selected individually, also taking into account the size, shape and specific features processed product. Please note that viscosity can only be adjusted with solvents when working with tung oil; other compositions absolutely do not tolerate this.

The thicker and more viscous the oil used, the more difficult it is to apply an even layer before polymerization begins. Working with thick oils requires greater care; the resulting drips are subsequently very problematic to remove. The advantages of thick oils are their high drying speed, comparable to some types of varnishes. Also thanks great content solid particles, such oils form a more durable film, providing protection from both mechanical damage, and from pollution.

Thinner oils are used to process products that either have significant area surfaces, or are replete with small details with many hard to reach places. Low viscosity oils can be applied for quite a long time without worrying about uneven drying. However, to obtain high-quality protection, the product must dry for quite a long time; moreover, such oils are usually applied in 3 or more layers.

Decorative properties of oils

When choosing an oil, the visual effect of its application is of paramount importance. From this point of view, oils are divided into conditionally colorless and tinting. Why are oils called colorless only conditionally? Because in any case they change the color of the wood surface, but at the same time maintain transparency. Coloring oils include a colloidal suspension of coloring pigment - from white to soot, which somewhat muffles the contrast of the texture pattern.

Transparent oils always reveal the wood's texture differently. This is due, first of all, to the viscosity index. The lower it is, the smaller the pores of the wood can be impregnated. Thick oils show only a general fiber pattern, rarer ones - small parts textures. Thus, for treating oak surfaces, the oil should have a viscosity slightly below average, while rich, thick formulations are recommended for alder.

The use of tinting oils is in many ways similar to staining. Tinting wood with oil is rarely used as an independent processing technique. Much more often, such compositions are used to emphasize the soft veins between hard wood fibers or to cover individual elements furniture. After drying, tinting oil has less gloss than colorless oil.

It is not known whether this can be attributed to decorative qualities This property of oils is their smell. In reality, all oils smell completely different, from haymaking to roasted seeds. After drying, the smell from the oil treatment turns into a very persistent, but subtle aroma, which can become a valuable part of the interior color.

Difference in solids and wax content

Despite their apparent homogeneity, wood oils are a colloidal system consisting of a liquid oil base and a suspension solids. The latter are products of partial polymerization of oil, special additives (driers in oils for external use), resins and natural wax. You are absolutely right if you assumed that the content of solid particles in the oil increases its viscosity and density.

The high content of partially polymerized inclusions in the oil helps eliminate the effect of raising the pile when wetting the wood. By using rich, thick oils, intermediate sanding or polishing can sometimes be avoided entirely. There is one interesting trend in this: thick oils are ideal for large-vascular wood, where the formation of high pile is possible, while fluid compositions are better used for dense hardwoods, which are practically not prone to “shaggyness”. On the other hand, due to the dry residue content, the drying time of the oil is regulated.

The inclusion of dissolved wax in the composition pursues slightly different goals. Wax helps tightly seal the pores of the wood, providing it with excellent hydrophobicity. This type of waxing is mainly used in exterior decoration to protect wood from getting wet and dust accumulation in small pores. Another reason is that the wax is added to the oil by being dissolved in turpentine or some other volatile solvent. This gives rise to the problem of persistent unpleasant odor, what in living rooms highly undesirable. But there are oils in which wax dissolves when heated. These mixtures are unstable and the wax often precipitates, making the oil more difficult to apply. However, due to the high environmental friendliness of such a composition, it is possible to wax interior parts, but not for the purpose of protection, but to give a light tint and glossy shine.

Protective properties of oils

Unlike most protective equipment for wood, the oil does not form a dull film, maintaining the vapor permeability of the material. At the same time, the hydrophobicity of the surface increases significantly - upon contact with liquid water, the absorption of wood is practically zero. However, a wooden product remains susceptible to shrinkage and swelling; coating with oil does not eliminate these phenomena.

The protective effect of the oil is to compact the outer layers of the tree, thereby preventing the penetration of insect pests into the mass. Due to the absence of paths for moisture penetration, the tree becomes least susceptible to organic damage by mold, mildew or blue staining.

Oil also preserves the color of wood well, which is especially important for exterior finishing Houses. The oil crust that forms on the surface effectively disperses sunlight and limits the flow of oxygen. Due to this, the rate of cellulose oxidation and the associated appearance of a grayish coating are reduced significantly.

All these properties are more pronounced the thicker the oil used for coating and the more layers are applied. Oils are characterized by the division of protection into two barriers: an internal one, achieved by impregnation of the pores, and an external one, formed when a thin oil film dries on the surface. It should be remembered that oil-impregnated wood has a higher thermal conductivity than dry wood.

Selection according to wood type

Wood oil is always selected for a specific species. It is recommended to have with you a trial piece of wood of the same type and quality of processing that is typical wood finishing. Test application even on small areas will help you quickly evaluate the behavior of the composition in contact with wood, as well as the decorative effect.

Let's start with the fact that everything conifers wood practically does not need to be impregnated with oil. If absolutely necessary, thick formulations applied in one layer should be used. This is due to the presence in the pores large quantity resins, due to which the tree loses its ability to absorb even fluid oils. Therefore, it is necessary to achieve rapid drying of the oil on the surface and in the surface layer.

Thick, saturated oils are also used when processing low-density wood (linden, alder), especially fruit species that have the most developed vascular system. There are no obstacles to impregnation with thick oil, while excessively fluid compositions will penetrate too deeply and will forever remain in a liquid state, deprived of oxygen.

A completely opposite approach is used when processing beech, birch or sycamore. Because of high density Such wood is impregnated either with unmelted oil or with compositions containing a solvent. Often, when working with dense hardwoods, they are treated in a combination way: first with oils that penetrate well into the wood, and then with thick compounds with a high proportion of solids and wax.

Features of applying and maintaining oil finishes

The process of applying the oil is extremely simple; just follow the instructions for using the specific composition. But there are general rules:

The wood must undergo chamber drying(humidity no more than 12-14%) and grinding the surface until tactile roughness is eliminated.
Application is carried out strictly in layers over the entire surface of the product, each layer must be completely dry.
After a specified period of time after application, rub the excess oil with a dry rag, distributing it between areas with uneven absorption.
Oil is applied to all sides of the part in equal quantities, and surfaces with an open cut of fibers are no exception, despite increased speed absorption.
If, after the oil has dried, lint has risen on the surface, before applying the next layer, it is necessary to carry out preliminary sanding, otherwise, when the oil film is rubbed, fibers from the rag will also settle on the surface.

Oil impregnation maintains performance for 4-5 years indoors and 2-3 years outdoors. After these periods, the coating is renewed by simply thoroughly cleaning the surfaces and applying another layer of oil. The thickness of the oil is chosen depending on the degree of damage to the previous finish; usually these are fairly thick restoration compounds.

All photos from the article

Understanding the terms

Tinting wood varnish (as well as stain, impregnation and other means) means gradually adding dye until it acquires the desired shade. That is, color is a dye that is gradually added to the solution.

Note!
For each type of wood treatment product, you should use a different type of color.
Otherwise, it may simply not dissolve when stirred, resulting in a suspension that cannot be used for processing.

There are several hundred shades of color; the common types of tinting wooden stairs alone include about 50-100 shades. But if suddenly the color palette is not enough, then you can always mix 2 different colors and get your own shade.

How to tint correctly

Preparation of tinted varnish

Sometimes even famous manufacturers can make mistakes in the color chart, so it makes sense to take care of preparing the varnish of the desired shade with your own hands. Dyes are usually sold in the same stores as the wood treatment products themselves. You can even try to negotiate with the operator of the coloring machine and the color can be cast into your container. This is just an ideal option, but it all depends on the mood of the employees.