Basic painting technologies. Painting works. General information. Painting compositions and their properties

This is done to increase their service life and create an attractive appearance, as well as, and last but not least, to improve sanitary conditions in the room. For example, in various government institutions, schools or hospitals in mandatory Painting work is carried out annually.

Painting works are carried out using modern paints or their mixtures of different compositions and colors, mainly oil-based, but sometimes also water based. When using aqueous compositions, there is a need for binding materials such as lime, glass, glue or cement, while for non-aqueous compositions you will need drying oil different types either synthetic or natural resins.

Painting work is carried out using oil, lime, enamel and glue paints, as well as various varnishes. Overwhelming majority paint and varnish products can be purchased in specialized stores, and some compositions can be prepared at home.

During painting work, you will need solvents such as white spirit (white alcohol) or acetone, paint thinners, as well as additional mixtures - primer, lubricating paste, putty.

Despite the apparent simplicity of painting and preparing paints, the technique of painting objects and applying coatings to them developed and specialized slowly, over a long period of time. Simultaneously with the economic ramifications of the industry, the dyeing technique also became more complex and changed depending on the purpose for which it was intended. For example, thin glaze, rough plaster and transparent varnish paint- all of them are technically far from each other.

This variety of colors occurs because in different cases of practice, coloring has special requirements. Thus, the coloring of the facade of a house must withstand completely different influences than the same coloring interior spaces the same house.
Further, the difference in requirements also depends on whether the paint will subsequently have to be washed or whether it will not be subjected to any mechanical cleaning. Is the object being painted in a dry or damp room and what type of dampness is it? Does it precipitate from warmer air or does it directly evaporate? In addition, whether this dampness has neutral properties or acts chemically, dissolving, corroding, or washing away the color, or depositing foreign substances on it. Likewise, when painting, it must be taken into account whether the painting will be in the form of a porous mass or whether it is necessary to make a coating impermeable to water and gases. Should the paint be matte or glossy? Finally, the requirements for painting are very dependent on many secondary issues: whether the painting must withstand temperatures above or below normal, be fire-resistant and to what extent.

These are, in general terms, the most common requirements for various types of colors. They relate only to the coloring technique itself and have almost nothing to do with the aesthetic side. In the latter respect it can also be set whole line requirements such as the practical choice of colors, which are important not only when decorating interior spaces, building facades, painting cars, etc.

The different requirements for paints also entail a variety of types of paints and the materials from which they are made.

Painting art in its works either imitates nature or creates contrasts with it. Nature is generally not familiar with monotony and homogeneity; by reproducing them, painting art reproduces contrasts. It's very an important condition is the softness of tone, graceful transitions of tones, which determines the pleasant impression made on the viewer.

All colors found in nature can be reduced to three basic ones: red, yellow and blue, however, not all colors can be obtained from them, since the paints we have are not ideally pure in economic and optical terms. So, for example, the beautiful color of carmine cannot be achieved by mixing cinnabar with azure. Clean dark blue color it will never work out from blue and black.

Let us assume that we have a circle divided into three equal parts, one of which is colored red, the other yellow and the third blue.

Each of these parts can be divided into two, so by mixing yellow with blue you get green; red and blue - purple, red and yellow - orange.

All these colors, in turn, can each be divided into two: purple can be red-violet if red predominates in it, and blue-violet if blue predominates.

The colors (tones) reproduced in this way will show us additional colors that will be located opposite each other along the diameter.

If we look at a small red rectangle on a white background, it will seem to us that it has greenish contours; if you take a yellow quadrangle, the outline will appear bluish; green gives pale red outlines; blue - red-yellow and black - white outlines. Then, if after a long and intent gaze you quickly turn your eyes to White background, then we will see a quadrangle of the color with which its contours seemed to be painted.
Therefore, instead of a red quadrilateral we will see a green one; instead of yellow - blue, etc.

Such colors are called complementary; Thus, two colors, complementary to each other, placed side by side, mutually cancel out the colored rays with which each of them was individually surrounded, and therefore stand out more sharply. If the colors are not the same in brightness, then the dark one will seem even darker, and the light one will appear even lighter. Changes in touching colors depend on the play of complementary colors with touching ones.

Let's explain this with examples.

Red and blue. The complementary color of red is green, and therefore blue becomes darker when adjacent to red; red becomes yellowish, because the complementary color of blue is orange.

Red and yellow. Red with its additional green turns yellow into yellow-green; yellow with its additional purple turns red to purple.

Yellow and blue. The complementary color of yellow, violet turns bright blue into indigo; the additional blue - orange - turns yellow into orange-yellow, etc.

All primary colors benefit when touched with white, because their complementary colors mix with white, making the colors bright and shiny. However, on a white background, light colors, such as light blue, pink, etc., make a more pleasant impression, because the primary colors blue, red and others form a sharp contrast with white.

A black background is equally suitable for dark and light bright colors. The colors on it appear very beautifully: red, rose-red, orange, yellow, light green and blue; The violet color appears less beautifully on black.

Due to its combination with dark colors, such as blue and violet, whose complementary colors are orange and yellow-green, black loses its power.

On various backgrounds this color receives the following changes: on a red background it appears dark green; on yellow - pale purple; on orange - blue-black; on green - reddish-gray and on purple - yellow-green-gray.

The gray background can be modified as follows: under the influence of red it becomes greenish; under the influence of yellow - blue-not-violet; under the influence of orange - bluish, green - reddish and blue - orange.

All these observations prove that the impression produced by colors is the result of mixing one of them with a complementary color of the latter. Thus, knowing the impression produced by this complementary color, one can combine colors and determine in advance the impression that will occur with such a combination.

Painting technology

Surface preparation

Before you begin painting any surface, it should be properly prepared.

Plaster, concrete or pre-plastered walls are first cleaned of dust. Then the surface is leveled using sandpaper or pumice, removing various defects and roughness. If there are cracks, they need to be deepened a few millimeters. The deep crack is moistened with water and then treated with putty or gypsum mortar. The resulting surface is leveled using a grater.

The wooden surface must be cleaned of dirt, and corks, knots and tar must be removed. The plugs are removed by cutting 3-5 mm. You also need to clean out the cracks and cracks. If you neglect this recommendation, when the wood dries out, the knots will appear on the surface in the form of tubercles. The situation is similar with tars. Moreover, due to these defects, the paint will deteriorate from the inside.

The list of preparatory operations for a surface that has already been painted depends on its condition and type, as well as the preservation of the paint.

If the original coating and plaster adhere well, it is enough to wash the surface with a 2% soda solution. In areas where the oil paint has weakened, it must be scraped off. If the old paint is cracked and cannot be removed, the surface should be treated with a special remover that will help remove the paint. After a certain time after applying the remover (from half an hour to 2 hours), the paint softens and can be easily removed with a spatula. A layer of old paint can also be removed using a blowtorch, a special hair dryer, or using an iron, after first protecting its sole with aluminum foil so as not to spoil it.

A wooden surface on which a layer remains previous coverage, before painting again, it is necessary to rinse with a 2% soda solution and warm water. After this, it is recommended to clean the surface using pumice mixed with water. If there are sagging, cracks, peeling or other damage on the original paint layer, old paint must be removed right down to the very wooden base. The areas that have been cleared of paint must be treated with drying oil, putty and primer.

Metal surfaces and facade finishing should be cleaned of rust and paint that has lost its attractive appearance. To do this job you will need a scraper, spatula, wire brush or sandpaper. In addition, the surface to be painted must be cleaned of dirt, traces of plaster mortar and other remnants of construction work.

Surfaces intended for painting with enamel or water-based paint are prepared in the same way as before working with oil paint.

A surface that has traces of previous paint, such as oil paint, can be coated with water-based paint. In this case, it is necessary to leave a layer of only that paint that adheres well to the original material.

Before you start painting wood with emulsion paint made in Sweden or Finland, you must first clean the surface of resin. To do this, the wood should be wiped several times with a 10% solution. soda ash, the temperature of which should not exceed 50-60 °C. Then the surface must be rinsed with warm water.

If the surface has been applied lime composition, it is necessary to carefully examine it and, if necessary, remove traces of whitewash. Dense layer old whitewash moisten generously with water at temperatures up to 70 °C, and when it gets wet, remove the paint with a spatula and wash the surface with water.

If the surface has been finished with adhesive or chalk paint, it is not recommended to reapply the adhesive composition to it. This is because fresh paint will pull off the existing layer and as a result, both the old and new layers will peel off.

You can clean the surface of a layer of old paint “dry”, but it is also possible to use hot water. In the latter case, it is better to use a brush that will be well wetted. Next, the old adhesive paint is removed with a spatula or scraper.

To prepare the surface for coating with casein or silicate paint a 2-3% solution of hydrochloric acid is used. Interacting with chalk hydrochloric acid allows you to easily remove old paint with a scraper or spatula.

Surface priming

One of the most important stages painting work involves priming the surface. It is carried out in order to close the pores, which, as a rule, are present on the surface of any material, especially wood.

The primer also provides a stronger adhesion of the paint to the base.

Typically, priming is carried out once, sometimes in several layers. Make sure the surface is dry before applying. The primer is applied with a brush and then thoroughly shaded.

Before you begin applying the next layer of primer or putty, you must make sure that the primer layer has dried thoroughly.

For priming surfaces under enamel or oil paint pure drying oil is used. For convenience, namely so that you can see unprimed areas, you can add a little paint to it, which will then be used to paint the surface.

Priming for lime paints is carried out on a damp surface, which increases the adhesion of the paint to the base and increases the durability of the coating.

To treat such surfaces, appropriate types of primer are used. The same type of primer, but with a thinner consistency, is used to prepare the surface for casein or silicate paint.

For water-based compositions, select a primer suitable for working with this type of paint.

However, such a surface is subject to pre-treatment drying oil or putty. To work with Swedish or Finnish paint, priming is not required.

Puttying

The next step after priming is filling the surface. It is necessary to eliminate defects in the processed material.

The surface must be leveled using putty, which is selected taking into account the type of paint used.

Using a spatula, apply an even layer of putty to the entire surface to be treated, which, after it has completely dried, must be cleaned and primed again.

Technology for high-quality surface painting water-based compositions consists of several sequential operations. Careful execution allows us to consider this finish to be of high quality.

These operations are: surface cleaning, smoothing, filling cracks, priming, partial priming, sanding, first full putty, sanding, second full putty, sanding, priming with tint. first coloring, second coloring, trimming.

Cleaning: removing dust, dirt, splashes and drips from the surface using metal spatulas, scrapers or mechanized methods. (Fig.1).

Smoothing (performed only on a plastered surface) - treating the surface with a pumice flake using a piece of wood. Elimination of errors not removed during cleaning.

The cracks are repaired with a knife or a spatula itself in order to prevent its further spread (Fig. 3).

Primer – preliminary application of primer compositions to the surface. Done with brushes. Rollers with a spray gun. The composition is applied to the surface, then shaded in a horizontal and then a vertical position. (Fig.4)

Partial lubrication is carried out with the aim of eliminating depressions and holes formed during crack filling in order to level the surface (Fig. 5a). It is carried out using a spatula using the herringbone technique. The putty is applied at an angle of 45 degrees to the crack axis on one side and the other. The filled crack is smoothed with a spatula (Fig. 5b).

Grinding of greased areas is carried out with the aim of eliminating protruding traces of the previous grease on the surface before applying a continuous layer of putty. So that it lies flat and smooth on the surface. (Figure 6). When performing this operation, a block or pumice is used. Grinding is carried out using circular and vertical movements. This operation is carried out only after the putty has completely dried.

The first continuous filling of the surface is done manually and leveled with a spatula. The painter puts putty on an auxiliary spatula. Then he transfers it to the main spatula and applies it to the surface with vertical movements, with the edge of each next layer overlapping the previous one. (Figure 7).

After the putty layer has dried, it is sanded, and then a second continuous putty is applied in order to finally level the surface. Then this layer of putty is also sanded after drying. After sanding the second layer of putty, the surface is primed with a tint, adding the color of the future coating to the primer. The techniques for applying this primer are the same as for the first primer.

After this layer has dried, begin the first painting. (Fig8).

When painting surfaces with rollers, first remove hard-to-reach areas (joint corners, etc.) with a brush. After applying the pre-tinted paint composition to the surface, it is shaded vertically. The roller moves evenly over the entire surface with smooth movements, with each subsequent layer overlapping the previous one.

After the first layer of paint has dried, apply the second layer.

In some cases, when performing high-quality painting, surface trimming is used - so that the surface becomes matte, devoid of shine and rough. Trimming is carried out with miter brushes on the freshly applied second layer of paint using miter brushes in two directions at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees. Hold the miter perpendicular to the surface. Figure 9.

Before starting painting work, it is necessary to prepare the surfaces and finish civil works in the apartment. In particular, it is necessary:

Complete the installation of all structures, complete the laying of communications, engineering, and electrical networks;
Lay waterproofing, sound and thermal insulation materials; seal connecting seams at the joints of panels and blocks, as well as connections between walls and door and window frames;
Windows must be glazed;
Built-in interior elements have been installed;
Ventilation, heat, water and gas supply systems have been checked;
Installed fasteners for facing materials, suspended structures;
Suitable temperature and humidity conditions are maintained;
Completed plastering work and drywall installation work.

The painting technology consists of several stages:

Surface preparation

Preparation for painting work consists of removing dust from the surface and priming. To do this, it is necessary to use special impregnating and penetrating primer compounds.

Preliminary and final leveling

Puttying is the finishing of the surface with special putty mixtures. This stage is preliminary decorative finishing and painting. There are two types of leveling - the base layer and the finishing layer. The first layer is applied to seal large recesses, holes, chips, cracks and crevices. The initial putty is carried out with coarse-grained compounds. The putty layer can reach two centimeters, while all recesses and depressions are filled with the solution, and then it is leveled over the entire surface. If the wall has large defects, several putty layers are created: after applying each layer, wait until it dries, then the surface is sanded, primed and the next layer is applied again. In some cases, when pre-plastering walls with large recesses and cracks, a special fiberglass mesh so that microcracks do not appear on the walls after painting. After these operations, finishing putty is carried out using fine-grained materials - the final stage of putty work. Thanks to finishing putty You can achieve perfectly smooth indoor surfaces.

After the putty has dried, the surface is thoroughly sanded. The latter procedure will make it possible to obtain a perfectly smooth wall or ceiling, which can be subjected to painting or other types of decorative finishing work. Wall putty, like ceiling putty, is carried out special spatula made of stainless metal, hard plastic (depending on the type of putty and the thickness of the solution). requires special attention, as it is the most complex look painting works. During this work, the solution is distributed over the surface with a spatula, which is held at approximately an angle of thirty to thirty-five degrees to the plane of the wall or ceiling.

Putty application technology

To apply putty, use a spatula to scoop up a certain amount of solution, which is applied to the surface, trying to make the layer not very thick. Then, pressing the tool to the surface of the wall and holding it at a certain angle, they level the solution, creating a layer of the required thickness. When preliminary puttying walls and ceilings, several layers are created until all unevenness is completely leveled.

Surface grinding

Craftsmen usually use a skinner, which rubs the surface in different directions, achieving absolute smoothness before painting. Special attention you need to pay attention to the force of pressing the skinner on the surface, it should be the same throughout the entire work. Sanding is a very important painting process. To check the quality of the work performed, you must use a spotlight. It often happens that after checking, some places have to be puttyed again and sanded again.

Painting

Painting work - applying painting compounds to the surfaces of structures of buildings and structures in order to increase their service life, improve sanitary and hygienic conditions in the premises and give them a beautiful appearance.

Every year, the interior decoration of premises becomes more and more elegant, the requirements for architectural expressiveness, interior and exterior design of buildings, and the quality of finishing are increasing. These requirements are met by new effective, economic Decoration Materials- new synthetic drying oils, varnishes and paints, especially water-based and organosilicon.
It would seem that painting a wall is not a difficult task. However, painting requires particularly careful preparation of the wall before repair work: paint will not hide cracks, irregularities, or any other wall defects. In addition, there are many ways to apply paint, which improve the appearance and make the paint last longer. The cleanliness of painted surfaces depends on the quality of the operations performed and the sequence of work. In high-quality painting, the smallest grains in the paint are unacceptable. For painting work you need various brushes, rollers, spatulas, and rulers.

When painting, paints of various compositions are used: glue, lime, oil, enamel and others. All paints contain various binders, pigments and auxiliary substances. The ratio of parts in paints is not random, so adding some substance at random, such as a solvent, instead of improving the quality of the painted surface can lead to its decrease.

Typically paint is sold in finished form. If you need to dilute it, you only need to add the most required amount solvent, otherwise the paint will run off, especially with vertical surfaces. If the paint in a can is covered with a film, you should under no circumstances stir it, but carefully cut it with a knife as close to the body of the can as possible and remove it. If the film cannot be completely removed, it is advisable to strain the paint. For this purpose, a nylon stocking is usually used, which is used to cover the opening of an empty, clean jar. There is a generally accepted system of designations for paints and varnishes, which reflects their properties, purpose, and operating conditions - a kind of compass in the boundless sea of varnishes and paints.

Types of paints

Based on their primary purpose and in relation to the operating conditions of coatings, paint and varnish materials are divided into groups:

Weather-resistant, limited weather-resistant, protective, conservation, water-resistant, special, oil- and petrol-resistant, chemical-resistant, heat-resistant, electrical insulating. The classification also takes into account the type of film former, which for brevity is denoted by two letters.

Varnishes, enamels, primers and putties are produced on the basis of various resins: polycondensation, polymerization, natural, and cellulose ethers.

Paints and varnishes based on polycondensation resins:

alkyd-urethane - (AU), glyphthalic - (GF), organosilicon - (KO), melamine - (ML), urea (urea) - (MP), pentaphthalic - (PF), polyurethane - (UR).

Polyester: unsaturated - (PE), saturated - (SH), phenolic - (PL), phenol-alkyd - (FA), cyclohexane - (CH), epoxy - (EP), epoxyether - (EF), etrifthalic - (ET).

Paints and varnishes based on polymerization resins: rubber - (KCh), oil- and alkyd-styrene - (MS), petroleum-polymer - (NP), perchlorovinyl - (CV), polyacrylate - (AK), polyvinyl acetal - (VL), polyvinyl acetate - (VA ). Based on copolymers: vinyl acetate - (VS), vinyl chloride - (CS), fluoroplastic - (FP).

Paints and varnishes based on natural resins: bitumen - (BT), rosin - (KF), oil - (MA), shellac - (ShL), amber - (YAN).

Paints and varnishes based on cellulose ethers: cellulose acetobutyrate - (AB), cellulose acetate - (AC), cellulose nitrate - (NC), ethylcellulose - (EC).

Marking of paints and paintwork materials

Each paint and varnish material is assigned a name and designation consisting of letters and numbers. The designation of varnishes consists of four, pigmented materials - of five groups of signs.

The first group means the type paint and varnish material and is written with the word - varnish, paint, glaze, primer, putty.

The second group indicates the type of film-forming substance, denoted by the two letters indicated above - MA, PF, ML, etc. (ML enamel...; PF varnish...).

The third group indicates the preferential operating conditions of the paint and varnish material, indicated by one number from 1 to 9. A hyphen is placed between the second and third groups of characters (enamel ML-1.., varnish PF-2...).

The fourth group is the serial number assigned to the paint and varnish material during its development, denoted by one, two or three digits (ML-1110 enamel, PF-283 varnish). The fifth group (for pigmented materials) indicates the color of the paint and varnish material - enamel, paint, primer, putty - in full (ML-P enamel 1.0 gray-white). When designating the first group of marks for oil paints containing only one pigment, instead of the word “paint” the name of the pigment is indicated, for example “red lead”, “mummy”, “ocher”, etc. (red lead MA-15).

For a number of materials, indices are placed between the first and second groups of signs:

B - without volatile solvent

B - for water-based

VD - for water-dispersed

OD - for organodispersive

P - for powder

The third group of marks for primers and semi-finished varnishes is designated by one zero (primer GF-021), and for putties - by two zeros (putty PF-002). After the hyphen, a single zero is placed before the third group of characters for oil based paints (red lead MA-Q15).

For paints and varnishes produced with mixed film-forming agents, the second group of signs is designated by the film-forming agent, which determines the properties of the material.

In the fourth group of signs for oil paints, instead of a serial number, a number is placed indicating which drying oil the paint was made from: natural drying oil, drying oil "Oxol", glyphthalic drying oil, pentaphthalic drying oil, combined drying oil.

In some cases, to clarify specific properties paint coating After the serial number, a letter index is placed in the form of one or two capital letters, for example: B - high-viscosity; M - matte; N - with filler; PM - semi-matte; PG - reduced flammability, etc.

All the information necessary for the consumer of the paint and varnish material is provided on the label, which contains the full name of the material indicating GOST or TU, its purpose, method of application, precautions, manufacturer, production date and batch number. The label is a very important part of the packaging of paint and varnish material. It is not always true that the jar must be made of lithographed metal. A colorful label made on good paper is not inferior to lithography in artistic and aesthetic terms.

When choosing paint, first of all you need to consider how durable the coating should be during use, take into account its decorative appearance and not forget about the cost.

Types of wall paints

Exterior and interior paints vary in their resistance to rain, sun and temperature fluctuations. Paints that are intended for outdoor use can also be used for interior decoration premises. The choice of one or another paint depends on what kind of finishing the room needs to be done - simple, improved or high-quality.

Paints based on mineral binders are intended for simple finishing of stone, concrete and plastered walls, for painting swimming pools, wells and fences. They provide loose, breathable coatings that can withstand water, especially cement-based paints, and temperature changes.

Adhesive paints are used to finish plastered, concrete and wooden surfaces, and casein paints are suitable for both external and internal work. Only walls and ceilings can be painted with dextrin, starch and bone glue paints. indoors. An important advantage of adhesive paints is their porosity: coatings made from them do not interfere with air exchange; moisture that can form on a damp wall or ceiling easily evaporates through them.

The best are paints and enamels based on synthetic binders or drying oils, which are used for high-quality finishing. There are among them suitable for both external and internal work, as well as those intended only for internal work. They can give matte, glossy and semi-gloss finishes. Some of them form continuous coatings (for example, alkyd), others (for example, water-based coatings) are porous. Paints that form continuous coatings are unsuitable for damp or damp walls, and alkyd paints are also not resistant to alkalis, and therefore cannot be used to paint freshly plastered or concrete walls.

Oil paints are similar in properties to paints based on synthetic binders. They form non-porous coatings that are not resistant to alkalis and moisture.

Painter's tools

Swing brushes. They are produced mainly in large sizes - d 60 and 65 mm with a hair length of 100 mm. In order to choose a good brush, you need to check it for bending - when bending, the hair should straighten immediately, leaving no visible curvature.

Brushes in the shape of a bunch, requiring special knitting, are called weight brushes, brushes in a cartridge with a handle are called piece brushes. The weight brushes, after being tied with strong twine, are placed on a long pin handle. Any brush must be tied up, because long hair does not blend the paint well and creates a lot of drips. Therefore, professional painters believe that for glue painting, untied hair should be 7-9 cm long, for oil and enamel painting - 5-7 cm.

Whitewash brushes are 200 mm wide, 45-60 mm thick, and hair length is 100 mm. Such brushes are 2.5 times more productive than fly brushes and allow you to obtain cleaner coloring. Sometimes they are used instead of a whitewash brush - a whitewash brush, which is made from half-ridge bristles with 50% horsehair. They are round in shape (diameter 120 and 170 mm, with a bristle length of 94 -100 mm) or rectangular. The handle of the maklovits is attached in the middle of the block or made removable with screws. The work of the mackerel is carried out from a stepladder or from the floor. Paint brushes and whitewash brushes are recommended for use with glue and casein paints. Painting done with whitewash brushes or paint brushes does not require fluting.

Handbrake Have small size and are placed on a short wooden handle. They are made from pure bristles, as well as with the addition of horsehair. Handbrake handles are available in d - 26, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 54 mm. The handbrake is tied with twine, which, as the hand wears out, is moved, increasing the length of the hair. The length of the remaining hair should be no more than 30-40 mm. Handbrake paints are used for painting small surfaces with glue and oil paints. Handles made of soft bristles fixed in metal rings are suitable for any work. If the bristles are fixed with glue, then the brushes should not be used for painting with adhesive and lime-based paint compositions.

Flutes are flat brushes with a width of 25, 60, 62, 76 and 100 mm, made of high-quality bristles or badger hair, fixed in a metal frame, which is put on a short wooden handle. Flutes are used mainly to smooth out freshly applied paint, that is, to eliminate marks from a hand brush or handbrake. Flutes can also be used for coloring.

Trimmings have rectangular shape and are made from hard bristles. Their main purpose is to treat freshly painted surfaces. The trimmer is applied evenly, smoothing out uneven paint. As a rule, glue and oil paints are used for finishing. File brushes are available in diameters from 6 to 18 mm and are made of white, stiff bristles mounted in a metal cartridge frame. The cartridges are mounted on wooden handles of varying lengths. These brushes are designed for drawing out narrow strips, called panels, or for painting hard-to-reach places where the handbrake does not fit. For painting radiators, special radiator brushes with a handle curved at the base are produced.

In many respects, rollers are much more convenient and more productive than brushes. Especially when painting large areas. In addition, rollers can not only be used for painting, but also for priming. Depending on the work performed, rollers are used various sizes: diameter from 4 to 7 cm, length from 10 to 25 cm. Fur, foam and velor rollers are most often used. When preparing for work, the fur roller needs to be immersed in water for some time - this will reduce the hardness of the hair covering. However, it should be remembered that it is not recommended to use a fur roller when working with lime paints - lime destroys fur very quickly. At the end of work, the rollers must be washed in warm water with soap, completely removing the paint.

Painting technology

When performing painting work, you need to have various auxiliary materials on hand: gypsum for sealing cracks and correcting surface defects, a solution for repairing plaster or fluting stains and deposits on the surface of chimney masonry, degreasers, adhesive tape for covering areas that cannot be painted, etc. Single-layer painting does not provide sufficient protection for the base, so you need to successively apply several layers of paint, each of which performs its own functions. The bottom layer serves to adhere the multilayer coating to the base. The top layer, which completes the paint coating, protects the lower layers from external influences and performs decorative functions. If oil paint is applied in one layer, the surface will become wrinkled and cracks will appear over time.

The number of layers depends on the type of paint, the required quality of coating and the type of base. Adhesive paint is applied in two layers, water-based paint in three, and some glossy polishes in six or more layers. Each subsequent layer should contain more pigment and less binder. For example, the emulsion from the primer is heavily diluted with water, but for the coating layer it is not diluted at all.

Before you start painting, you need to prepare the base. The surface to be painted must be cleaned of dirt, rust, grease stains and, in addition, dried (this especially applies to wooden surfaces). If water remains in the pores of the wood, the paint will not penetrate there. It will remain on the surface and then fall off. If the wood is dry on the surface but wet inside, when heated under the sun's rays and other influences, water vapor will put pressure on the paint coating from below and tear it. To obtain a high-quality paint coating, you do not need to paint at low or too low temperatures. high temperatures, as well as in the sun, in a draft, in fog and in light rain. During painting work, the temperature should not be lower than 5 C.

When painting, the brush is held with a slight inclination to the surface. It is immersed in paint, dipping not completely, but only a quarter of the length of the hair; excess paint from the brush is removed on the edge of the jar. First, paint is applied to the edges, corners and hard to reach places and only then on smooth surfaces. When painting overhead surfaces, paint often drips onto the brush handle. To prevent this from happening, you can take an old rubber ball, cut it in half and insert a brush handle into one of the halves. To prevent the ball from jumping off the handle, an elastic band is secured underneath it. If there is no ball, put a glassine circle with a diameter of 5-7 cm on the handle.

When cleaning a ceiling, if it has not been previously painted, first remove the old paint. A small stain can be washed off with hot water using a brush and a rag, but a thick one must be cleaned dry with a scraper. You can pre-moisten it with hot water using a brush and after 40 minutes remove it with a scraper or spatula.

The scraper or spatula is placed at an angle to the surface and, pressing lightly on the tool, removes the layer of whitewash with sliding movements forward. In the same way, splashes of solution, paint layers and other contaminants are removed. Cracks in the ceiling and walls must first be widened and then lubricated with the appropriate composition. The grouting is done with a spatula, sealing not only the embroidered cracks, but also the cavities and depressions that are on the surface. After drying, the greased areas are sanded and primed.

Paint application methods

Although recently applying paint with a roller or using paint sprayers has become increasingly common, at home they still use a brush. You need to prepare the brush - crush it between your fingers and blow it out. For painting you can use flat and round brushes. The size of round brushes is selected depending on the nature of the surface or object being painted, as well as the thickness of the paint and varnish materials. In a new round brush, you need to shorten the length of the hair by tying it, otherwise it will splatter the paint.

The length of free hair is approximately 30-40 cm. The paint is applied evenly, first with movements in one direction, and then perpendicular to it, blending well until the entire surface is evenly painted. Latest movements with a brush, on horizontal surfaces, perform along their long sides, on vertical surfaces from top to bottom, and if wooden surfaces are painted, then in the direction of the annual layers of wood. If the paint is on drying oil, smooth out the last layer with light brush movements in a perpendicular direction. For smoothing, it is best to use a hair brush.

Large areas when painting need to be divided into several small ones, limited by seams or strips. This takes into account the type of paint material. Door leaf With drying oil paint you can paint everything at once. If you are painting a room with oil enamel, it is better to apply the paint to smaller surfaces.

When painting vertical surfaces, the paint must be thoroughly shaded so that it does not run off or form streaks. The paint runs off some time after it is applied, so you don’t need to take too much liquid paint or apply it in a thick layer. If you are painting a complex relief surface with various recesses, you need to remember that you cannot apply too much paint in them, because it will drain, wrinkle the surface and dry poorly.

To obtain a smooth edge of the surface to be painted, you can use self-adhesive tape, glued to a line previously marked using a cord or a plumb line. To wet the rollers with paint, you will need a flat metal box with longitudinal walls in the shape of a trapezoid. A sieve with cells measuring 10-20 mm is installed in the box, along which a roller soaked in paint is passed to eliminate excess and evenly distribute the paint along the entire perimeter of the roller.

The work is done this way. 3-4 strips of paint are applied to a surface of about 1 m2, after which these strips are rolled with a roller with wrung-out paint in a horizontal direction (with a slight inclination of the roller) until the paint is evenly distributed on the surface. If it is necessary to limit the area to be painted, its edges are covered with thick paper or sealed with adhesive tape.

The spray paint method has several advantages, especially when painting large, uniform, non-overlapping surfaces. Paint and varnish materials of all types are applied in this way quickly and evenly.

This method is also convenient for painting hard-to-reach surfaces, for example the inside of radiators. central heating. During the spraying process, tiny particles of paint fall on the surface to be painted, connect with one another and form a uniform layer. When applying paint in this way, you need to cover all surrounding surfaces that are not to be painted, so as not to waste time and effort cleaning them later. Adhesive tapes that can be used to secure paper or film are suitable for this purpose. To obtain a smooth edge of the surface to be painted, you can use self-adhesive tape, glued to a line previously marked using a cord or plumb line. As soon as the liquid level drops, the container must be filled, otherwise, after sucking in air, the paint sprayer will eject an uncontrollable amount of paint.

When processed with a sponge, a soft spotted pattern is created. Moreover, the light tone of the lower layer (background) will look like veins indeterminate form. The paint should not be pure white, it should be slightly tinted, which will give a more sophisticated effect. If you need to get a more contrasting solution, you need to apply a dark pattern over matte emulsion paint - you will get an original shimmering pattern. Applying paint with a sponge can lighten or, conversely, darken the overall tone. For the background and foreground, you need to choose harmoniously combined shades of a single color range or complementary colors of equal intensity.

Densely applied, without significant gaps, the pattern gives the impression of an intensely colored surface. In turn, the color and tone of the main background can affect the intensity of the pattern applied on top of it. Sponging is suitable for almost any surface, but it is most effective on large surfaces, such as walls. Interestingly, this method is indispensable for disguising not very attractive objects, such as radiators.

For both the base layer and the decorative layer applied over it, undiluted emulsion paint is used for walls, and butcher paint is used for wooden parts and metal parts. For such work, they use natural sea sponge, the structure of which has the largest number of voids. If the pattern obtained on the wall repeats and becomes regular, you need to tear the sponge and continue working with its inner, most uneven surface.

To apply a pattern with a sponge, paint of a darker tone, intended for applying a pattern with a sponge, needs to be placed in a tray and stirred thoroughly. You will first need to soften the sponge - soak it in water if you are going to paint with an emulsion, and if using oil paint - in white spirit. Wring out the sponge, then dip it into the paint and press it against the grooved inclined compartment of the tray so that the paint saturates the entire sponge.

After this, it is necessary to remove excess paint from the sponge using light, jerky touches of a sheet of paper: if the sponge is oversaturated, the drawing may end up with blots or even blur.

Movements need to start from top to bottom. Work with light, jerky touches, do not rotate or press the sponge too hard. The position of the hand with the sponge must be changed in such a way as to avoid a regular, repeating pattern. When the sponge becomes drier, you can work in the corners and along the baseboard, here you involuntarily have to press it, and the danger of squeezing out excess paint is real.

First, the surface must be treated with a sparse pattern that does not completely cover the lower, main tone and left to dry. Rinse the sponge and then apply a second layer, overlapping the first so that they merge into the overall pattern. When the second layer has dried, you need to touch up individual spots that stand out with a light color. You can apply a background color or " ivory", which will soften the overall pattern.

To touch-up walls, you need to prepare a glaze by mixing 70% varnish, 20% oil paint and 10% white spirit, and then apply the composition along the base tone in a strip 500 mm wide from top to bottom. While the glaze has not dried, you need to apply a dotted stroke over it with a brush with a quick and confident movement. Then continue processing until the entire surface is covered with a stroke. To hide the joints, it is necessary to overlap the adjacent strip. If the surface treated in this way needs to be washed in the future, a layer of matte polyurethane varnish should be applied on top of it.

A touch of color produces a more elegant design than sponging. It is usually done over uncured glaze or varnish and creates a spectacular surface dotted with dots through which the background shines through. The tone and color for the line drawing are chosen according to the same principle as when processing with a sponge. Let the background have more light shade, so that a kind of haze of color is formed, and for the stroke a darker tone: it will better reveal the design. The reverse combination is also possible.

Line art can be applied to any surface, but it looks especially impressive on the walls of small rooms, on doors and on furniture. For shading, it is better to use undiluted emulsion or oil paint (according to the surface material). To apply strokes to uncured glaze, you can only use oil paint. Special brushes designed for this job are made from badger hair, but almost any flat brush (even a new shoe brush) can be used, provided the bristles are the same length.

Technology for applying line art: pour a small amount of paint of the lightest color into a tray or flat dish (with a layer of at least 3 mm), dip a dry brush into the paint, only lightly touching the surface with it so that the bristles do not absorb too much of it. Treatment should begin from top to bottom, making jerky movements with the brush and changing the angle of its position on the plane of the wall. To enhance the design, you need to apply another layer (using light pressure with the brush) to achieve greater contrast. If blots appear, they should be covered with a shade of the base primer. At the end of the work, you need to fill the corners, the surface around the platbands and near the baseboard with an almost dry brush, using the color of the first layer of knurling.

Processing with fabric

Peeling off the paint or rolling out with a rope produces a softer and more indefinite pattern, but these methods require more skill. Prints that look like folded petals are made by applying or, conversely, removing paint using a piece of fabric.

All of these methods are carried out using fresh glaze solution. As with previous processing methods, the pattern is applied from top to bottom in vertical stripes 500 mm wide. First you need to soak a piece of fabric in white spirit, wring it out and crumple it in your hand or twist it into a rope (into a roller). Then lightly dip the fabric into the glaze.

To apply a design with a roller, you need to hold it with both hands and roll it from top to bottom, both in a straight line and in irregular, random directions. In this case, you can get a vague, confusing pattern. The flap needs to be shaken off often and crumpled in your hand again or changed (the flap) as soon as it becomes too oversaturated with paint. The joints between individual strips must be masked especially carefully.

To apply paint using a crumpled piece of fabric, use emulsion or oil paint (according to the surface material). For the roller rolling or paint removal method, only oil paint should be used, both for the bottom, main layer, and for rolling. The color for the roll will be the main tone, so you need to choose it darker than the background. Fabric method, in addition to decorating walls or individual elements furniture, good in cases where you need to match the color of built-in equipment to the color of the walls. You can use any fabric - from muslin or gauze to suede - as long as it is non-fibrous and takes the dye well.

Technology of applying a pattern using fabric.

A little paint needs to be poured into a tray with a flat bottom. When dipped into the emulsion, a dry cloth produces a clear, hard pattern. If you wet it a little, you will get softer prints. If using oil paint, you need to soak a rag in white spirit and then wring it out thoroughly. Before use, crumple the fabric in your hand, then dip the rag into the paint and lightly squeeze it onto a sheet of paper to remove excess. Apply strokes from top to bottom or along the cornice with free movements, similar to working with a sponge. The rag must be shaken off and re-squeezed in your hand frequently to avoid a repeating pattern. As soon as the pattern becomes less clear, the rag needs to be replaced with a fresh one.

At the end of the work, be sure to correct insufficiently filled areas of the surface. In some cases, a second layer of color may be applied, but usually this is not required; as a rule, the expected effect is achieved the first time.

Depending on the type of painting work and the composition of the paint used for painting, you may need various brushes, rollers, spatulas, and rulers. Brushes good quality Made from pure bristles. They absorb a large amount of paint composition and hold it inside so that the paint does not flow off. Cheap, but less practical and durable are brushes made from bristles with the addition of about 50% hard horsehair.

The largest in size (a tuft of hair reaches a length of 180 mm, a diameter of 60-65 mm) are swing brushes that have a round cross-section and a long handle (1.8-2 m). They are sold ready-made (a tuft of hair is secured in a metal ring) or in the form of a tuft of hair that requires knitting. In any case, you need to check the length of the brush hair in order to tie it up if necessary. After bending the brush, the hairs should immediately straighten, taking their previous shape. Swing brushes are convenient for painting large surfaces, such as ceilings and walls.

Vitaly Lvova

Single-layer painting does not provide sufficient protection for the base, so you need to successively apply several layers of paint, each of which performs its own functions.

The bottom layer serves to adhere the multilayer coating to the base. The covering layer, which completes the paint coating, protects the lower layers from external influences and performs decorative functions. If oil paint is applied in one layer, the surface will become wrinkled and cracks will appear over time.

Each subsequent layer should contain more pigment and less binder. For example, the emulsion from the primer is heavily diluted with water, but for the coating layer it is not diluted at all.

If the wood is dry on the surface but wet inside, when heated under the sun's rays and other influences, water vapor will put pressure on the paint coating from below and tear it.

To obtain a high-quality paint coating, you do not need to paint at low or too high temperatures, as well as in the sun, draft, fog and light rain. During painting work, the temperature should not be lower than 5 °C.

First, paint is applied to edges, corners and hard-to-reach places, and only then to smooth surfaces. When painting overhead surfaces, paint often drips onto the brush handle. To prevent this from happening, you can take an old rubber ball, cut it in half and insert a brush handle into one of the halves. To prevent the ball from jumping off the handle, an elastic band is secured underneath it. If there is no ball, put a glassine circle with a diameter of 5-7 cm on the handle.

Cracks in the ceiling and walls must first be widened and then lubricated with the appropriate composition. The grouting is done with a spatula, sealing not only the embroidered cracks, but also the cavities and depressions that are on the surface. After drying, the greased areas are sanded and primed.

PAINTING WITH A BRUSH

Although recently applying paint with a roller or using paint sprayers has become increasingly common, at home they still use a brush.

You need to prepare the brush - crush it between your fingers and blow it out. For painting you can use flat and round brushes. The size of round brushes is selected depending on the nature of the surface or object being painted, as well as the thickness of the paint and varnish materials.

In a new round brush, you need to shorten the length of the hair by tying it, otherwise it will splatter the paint. The length of loose hair is approximately 30-40 cm.

The paint is applied evenly, first with movements in one direction, and then perpendicular to it, shading well until the entire surface is evenly painted. The last movements of the brush on horizontal surfaces are performed along their long sides, on vertical ones from top to bottom, and if wooden surfaces are painted, then in the direction of the annual layers of wood.

If the paint is on drying oil, smooth out the last layer with light brush movements in a perpendicular direction. For smoothing, it is best to use a hair brush.

Large areas when painting need to be divided into several small ones, limited by seams or strips. This takes into account the type of paint material. The door leaf can be painted with drying oil all at once. If you are painting a room with oil enamel, it is better to apply the paint to smaller surfaces.

When painting vertical surfaces, the paint must be thoroughly shaded so that it does not run off or form streaks. The paint flows off after some time after its application, so there is no need to use too thin paint or apply it in a thick layer.

If you are painting a complex relief surface with various recesses, you need to remember that you cannot apply too much paint in them, because it will drain, wrinkle the surface and dry poorly.

To obtain a smooth edge of the surface to be painted, you can use self-adhesive tape, glued to a line previously marked using a cord or plumb line.

PAINTING WITH A ROLLER

To wet the rollers with paint, you will need a flat metal box with longitudinal walls in the shape of a trapezoid. A sieve with cells measuring 10-20 mm is installed in the box, along which a roller soaked in paint is passed to eliminate excess and evenly distribute the paint along the entire perimeter of the roller.