Subtleties of arranging a mesh fence. Chain-link fence: types for different soils and purposes, how to make and install How to install a chain-link fence correctly

In some dacha cooperatives, it is impossible to install a fence made of slate and other materials between plots, because they heavily shade small areas. In this case good solution there will be a fence made of chain-link mesh - it does not prevent the sun from entering the area and does not impede the natural circulation of air. Chainlink – inexpensive material, which can last for a very long time. Its additional advantage is that it can be used as a support for climbing plants. The author of this successful invention was Karl Rabitz. The mesh began to be used at the end of the 19th century, initially it was used during plastering work.

Chainlink – available material which any owner can afford to purchase summer cottage plot. In order to create a chain-link fence with your own hands, in addition to the mesh, you will need thick wire, reinforcing rods, cable and support posts.

A chain-link fence can be an excellent hedge or serve as a support for climbing plants. In this case, the site will be much more beautiful

Today, manufacturers offer three types of chain-link mesh:

• non-galvanized mesh is one of the cheapest, it is better not to consider this option, because... within a few months it may become covered with rust;
• galvanized chain-link is the most common - it is slightly more expensive than non-galvanized chain-link, but does not rust;
• Plasticized chain-link is a metal mesh, which is coated with multi-colored polymers on top to protect it from corrosion.

The last option is very practical, and such a mesh looks much more aesthetically pleasing than a metal one. Therefore, plasticized chain-link, although it appeared recently, is already actively used by our gardeners.

When choosing a mesh, you should pay attention to the size of the cells; the smaller their size, the stronger and more expensive the mesh. A mesh with cells of 40-50 mm and a roll width of 1.5 m is quite suitable as a fence for a summer cottage.

Option #1 – “tension” chain-link fence

The design of a chain-link fence can be different. The easiest way to make a fence is to stretch mesh between the posts. The poles can be metal, wood or concrete.

A simple way to make a tension fence from chain-link without using rods - the mesh is stretched between the posts and hung on hooks. Of course, over time it may sag, but such a fence can last quite a long time

The number of pillars depends on the distance between them and the length of the fence. As practice shows, best distance between fence posts made of metal mesh - 2.5 m. Used pipes that are not affected by corrosion can be used as posts. Now they sell ready-made fence posts, already painted, with hooks. Wooden poles must be treated along their entire length before installation. protective composition. You can also use concrete pillars and attach a mesh to them with wire or a clamp.

The height of the pillars is calculated as follows. If there is a gap between the ground and the fence, you need to add 5-10 cm to the width of the mesh, and then another meter and a half, taking into account the underground part. As a result, you will get the average post height required for installing the future fence. The load on the corner posts will be slightly greater; they should be dug deeper, so their length should exceed the length of ordinary posts by about 20 cm.

It is better to concrete the bases of all pillars for greater strength. The posts are the frame of the fence, after you install them, you can start attaching the mesh. After the concrete has hardened, hooks for attaching the mesh are attached or welded to the posts (if the post is metal). Suitable materials for fastenings include screws, rods, nails, wire - any material that bends into a hook. We straighten the roll with the mesh and install it at the corner post, hang the mesh on the hooks.

To ensure good tension and strength of the structure, we vertically thread a rod or thick wire into the first row of mesh cells, attach the rod to wooden post or weld it to metal. The mesh secured in this way will not bend or sag, as often happens without such fastening.

Then the roll is unwound over the span, to the next post. A little further from the place where the mesh connects to the post, we thread the rod in the same way. We hold on to the rod and pull the mesh; if you don’t use the rod and just pull it with your hands, you can tighten the mesh unevenly. It is best to do this together - one person at the bottom edge, the other at the top.

Now the reinforcement is threaded horizontally into the mesh at a distance of at least 5 cm on both edges, top and bottom. Horizontal rods are welded or attached to the posts. If you tension the mesh without rods, over time it will sag, and the rods will maintain its tension.

Diagram of a fence made of galvanized mesh with reinforcement drawn along the top and bottom sides. This type of fence is a stronger structure.

The fence is almost ready, now you need to bend the hooks on the posts and paint the posts. It is better to wrap the protruding wire “antennae” down so that no one is injured. It is convenient to thread the wire through the top row of cells and wrap the protruding edges around it.

Here the “antennae” are neatly bent down towards the rod, you can dry things on such a fence, there is no risk of injury

The “antennae” of the upper cells must be bent to avoid accidental injuries. In this photo they are slightly bent - there is a risk of injury or tearing clothes

If you do not want to use reinforcement and concrete pillars, you can use the simplest technique presented in this video:

Option #2 – erecting a fence from sections

To make a fence of this type, you need sections where the mesh will be mounted. First similar to the device tension fence Markings are made and poles are installed.

This diagram can be taken as a basis for determining the proportions of the dimensions of the future structure (click to enlarge)

You will need to buy a corner measuring 40/5 mm to make the frame. We determine the length of the frame in this way: subtract approximately 10-15 cm from the distance between the pillars - this is its length. We subtract the same amount from the height of the pillar above the soil level - the resulting amount is the width of the frame. The corners are welded in rectangular designs. You can make the size of the sections based on the size of the mesh (1.5 -2 m), you can unwind the roll and, if necessary, reduce the size of the mesh to the desired size using an angle grinder.

Then strips of metal are welded horizontally to the pillars (length 15-25 cm, width 5 cm, cross-section 5 mm). Along the edges of the pillar you need to retreat 20 cm, install a section between the two pillars and, using welding, attach it to horizontal stripes. Now all that remains is to paint the new fence.

Rods with a cross section of 4 mm are threaded through the mesh from 4 sides, first into the outer row, then from above and below, the mesh must be stretched well and the rods welded to the corners of the section. (The rods are welded to the horizontal corners). It turns out a section from a corner with a chain-link mesh welded onto the rods from the inside

It will not be possible to make a tension fence on an inclined area; in an inclined position, the mesh cannot be tensioned. For a sloping area, you can make a sectional fence by installing sections on both sides of the posts at different distances along the soil level.

Every owner familiar with welding can make a fence from a chain-link mesh on their own. As a rule, 2-3 people cope with the work in a relatively short time. Go for it!

Mesh is widely used for fencing summer cottages. Anyone can install a chain-link fence with a minimum of tools on hand. Subject to installation technology and selection quality materials, such a fence will last 15-20 years. Before starting work, you need to study the types and characteristics of the mesh, as well as study the instructions in detail to avoid mistakes.

The mesh is made from black and galvanized wire, so the quality of the chain-link varies. Black wire mesh is the cheapest and most short-lived. It becomes covered with rust after the first fog or rain, and after 3-4 years it becomes completely unusable. You can extend the service life of non-galvanized chain-link by using paint or liquid rubber, which should be applied to the mesh before its installation, and then periodically update the protective layer.

A mesh made of galvanized wire is not afraid of corrosion, and therefore lasts longer. It costs a little more than black, but does not need any protective treatment. made from galvanized chain-link, they look neat and attractive.

Plasticized chain-link is becoming increasingly popular. This metal mesh is coated with a dense layer of anti-corrosion polymer, due to which it has increased resistance to atmospheric influences. In addition, the polymer is colored, the mesh looks very attractive and aesthetically pleasing. And although such chain-link is quite expensive, the demand for it is constantly growing.

In addition to quality, chain-link mesh differs in mesh size, wire thickness and roll height. Cells can have sizes from 10 to 65 mm, wire diameter 1-5 mm. The roll height is from 0.8 to 2 m, but the most popular is 1.5 m. Standard length mesh in a roll is 10 m; rolls of 20 m are made to order. The smaller the cells, the more expensive cost mesh, because this increases material consumption.

Prices for mesh netting

Rabitz

Types of mesh fences

Chain-link fencing can be sectional or tensioned. The first option involves the production of rectangular metal sections, inside of which a mesh is fixed. For sections use metal corners, profile and round pipes small diameter. They are connected by welding or bolts, if not. Such a fence looks more aesthetically pleasing and attractive, metal carcass prevents the mesh from sagging.

A tension fence is quicker and easier to install; its design consists only of support pillars and the mesh itself. The mesh is secured using steel wire, clamps, or hung on hooks welded to the posts. Pipes of different diameters, concrete pillars, and wooden beams are suitable for pillars.

Installation of fence posts

For both sectional and tension fences, the marking, preparation and installation of pillars is carried out using the same technology, only in the first case the pillars must be stronger. This is due to the additional load from metal sections; if the supports are too thin, the fence will definitely warp.

To work you will need:

• roulette;
• wooden pegs;
• a skein of thin rope;
• building level;
• hand drill;
• crushed stone and sand;
• solution;
• profile pipes 60x40 mm;
• Bulgarian;
• primer.

Step 1: Installing Corner Posts

The area allocated for the site is cleared of vegetation, leveled if necessary, and the location of the outer pillars is determined. Experienced builders It is recommended to make corner posts from pipes with a larger cross-section than intermediate ones, and dig them deeper. For example, if for intermediate supports they take a 40x40 mm profile pipe, then for corner supports it is better to take 60x40 mm and 15-20 cm longer.

Start installing the pillars:

When the solution has hardened a little, you can remove the spacers and begin marking for the intermediate posts.

Step 2. Marking

A rope is pulled tightly between the corner supports at a height of 15 cm from the ground - this will be the fence line. The line must be divided into equal segments corresponding to the width of the span. The optimal span width for a chain-link fence is 2-2.5 m; if you increase it, the mesh will definitely sag. They step back from the outermost post to the required distance and drive a peg into the ground, and so on until the opposite corner. All pegs should be in contact with the stretched rope and be at an equal distance from each other.

Video - New way to install support poles

Step 3. Installation of intermediate supports

In place of the pegs, holes are drilled for the posts and the bottom is filled with sand. To make it more convenient to control the height of the supports, another rope is pulled along the upper edge of the corner posts. Now the pipes are inserted into the pits, leveled in height and vertically, covered with crushed stone and soil and compacted tightly with a crowbar. Concrete is poured on top and the surface is leveled.

If you plan to install a tension fence, and the soil on the site is quite dense, intermediate supports can simply be driven into the ground and not concreted. To do this, drill holes to half the required depth, insert pipes there and hammer them in with a sledgehammer. To protect the top edge of the posts from deformation, take a piece of pipe bigger size, weld a steel plate on one side and place it on top of the post. After driving in the supports, the pits are filled with crushed stone and sand, spilled with water for better compaction and compacted thoroughly.

Step 4. Welding the hooks

After about a week, when the concrete has sufficiently hardened, installation can continue. You can secure the mesh to the poles with wire or clamps, but it is more convenient to hang it on hooks. There are profile pipes on sale with already welded hooks, but if there are welding machine, it’s cheaper to make them yourself. For this purpose, pieces of steel rod, screws, nails, even thick wire are suitable - anything that can be welded to the pipe and bent. On a pole 2 m high, it is enough to make 3 hooks: at a distance of 15 cm from the ground, 10 cm from the top of the pipe and in the middle.

Video - DIY chain-link fence

Step 1. Attaching the mesh

A roll of chain-link is placed near a corner post, unwinded a little and the cells are put on the hooks. To securely fix the edge of the mesh, you need to take a piece of reinforcement with a cross-section of 8 mm and a length of 1.5 m and thread it into the cells of the first row. After this, the fittings are attached to the pipe and welded. Now, when tensioning the roll, the mesh will not sag. Having secured the end of the mesh, the roll is transferred to the next support, carefully unwinding it.

Having retreated 10-15 cm from the junction of the chain-link with the pipe, a steel rod is again threaded into the cells. This time there is no need to weld it, it will simply help to tension the mesh evenly. When the mesh is put on the hooks, the rod is removed, the roll is unwound another span, the reinforcement is inserted again, and so on until the very end of the fence. To connect two sheets, use wire from the outermost vertical row of one of the rolls.

Step 2. Fixing the canvas from sagging

Even a well-stretched canvas sags a little over time, so at the installation stage you need to take care of additional fixation of the chain-link between the posts. You will need 6 mm wire and a welding machine. The wire is threaded into the second or third row of cells horizontally along the entire fence. Where the mesh adjoins the posts, the wire is welded. Then the lower edge of the mesh is strengthened in the same way, and finally the hooks are bent. Now the fence canvas is securely fixed on the supports and will not sag or sag.

Step 3. Final stage

Once the fence is installed, the finishing touches need to be completed:

• place plastic plugs on top of the pipes;
• paint the posts;
• Twist the upper tendrils of the chain-link in pairs into 2 turns and bend down.

At this point, the installation of the tension fence is considered completed.

Video - Connecting a chain-link into one roll

Installation of a sectional fence

Step 2. Preparing the racks

Rectangular plates 20x5 cm and 4-5 mm thick are cut from sheet steel. Take one plate, apply it perpendicular to the pole at a height of 20 cm from the ground and weld it. The second plate is welded at the top, 15-20 cm away from the edge. The plates are attached to the remaining supports in the same way.

Step 3. Installation of sections

The first section is placed between the pillars, raised and leveled. Then they weld the sides to the plates and move on to the next span. It is very important to correctly align the sections in height so that top bars the frames formed a single line. After installing all sections, the welding areas are cleaned, the fence frame is primed and painted.

Read step by step instructions How to do it in our new article.

Video - How to make a chain-link fence

The patented invention of Karl Rabitz has been a reliable material option for fences for centuries. In the fencing of a chicken coop and a transformer hut, a sports ground and a plot of land - such a mesh can be found everywhere. There is no alternative to it in demarcating neighboring areas - according to the regulations, it is prohibited to install boundary fences made of opaque materials. The task of making a chain-link fence with your own hands will not seem difficult to any man with a minimum of tools.

Which chain-link mesh to choose for a fence

The chain-link mesh is a continuous fabric of wire spirals woven together. This design makes it easy to splice the fragments together. In this case, the cell size can be in the range of 20-100 mm (the most common sizes are 30-50 mm), standard height rolls 1, 1.5 and 2 m.

When making mesh, wire of different diameters from 1.2 to 5 mm is used; Most of the chain-links on sale are made of wire 1.5-2 mm in diameter. The wire can be coated or uncoated:

• Without coating (“black”). It is better not to use mesh made from it for permanent fencing, its service life is short, and it is almost impossible to paint such a product with high quality, despite all the assurances of the “advisers.”
• Zinc coated is the most common option. Galvanized chain-link will fade after some time, but will not rust, having served for decades.
• From of stainless steel. A chic and timeless option, but very expensive.
• In a polymer shell. This mesh appeared on sale not so long ago and is widely used in great demand. Firstly, she has long term operation (subject to choosing a reliable manufacturer with high-quality plastic coating), secondly, you can realize your fantasies due to a wide palette of colors.

Galvanized wire mesh

Grid with color polymer coating

With your own hands you can not only build a chain-link fence, but also weave the mesh itself. There are many drawings of a manual loom for weaving it. Manufacturing the machine will require some milling, welding and light turning work. One person is able to produce up to 10 m of mesh per day, therefore, if you have wire, it makes sense to think about independent production.

Installation of supports for fencing construction

There are several options for making a chain-link fence. In any case, the most responsible and labor-intensive process is marking the territory and installing support pillars.

How to prepare the site and choose supports

Before installing a mesh fence, you should accurately, in accordance with the existing documents for the site, measure the boundaries of the future fence, think about the location of the gates and gates. Clear the area for the construction of the fence from debris and vegetation, and then drive stakes (wooden or metal stakes) into the places of future corner posts and supports for gates and gates.

To determine the location of the intermediate posts, you need to stretch a strong cord between the stakes, then measure the distance between them. Optimally, the racks are placed 2-2.5 m apart from each other, so the resulting distance must be divided by 2.5 and rounded up.

The distance between the pillars should be from 2 to 2.5 m

In this way the number of corner posts is found; the exact distance between them can be found by dividing the distance mentioned above by the number of pillars. The locations of future supports should also be marked with pegs.

Depending on the type of underlying soil, material, thickness of the pillars and the type of future fence, there are several methods for installing supports. Wooden posts are short-lived, concrete or asbestos-cement pipes cause difficulties when attaching the mesh.

The optimal solution to make a chain-link fence with your own hands will be metal racks from a round or profile square pipe from 60 mm in diameter. Next we will consider this option.

Support Pole Installation Methods

You can install metal racks:

• simply driving them into the ground;
• forget - place in a pre-prepared hole and fill it with stones or large crushed stone, constantly compacting it;
• partially (when the end of the post is driven into the ground) or completely concreted in pre-prepared pits.

There are many methods for calculating the length and depth of the underground part of the pillars - determining the type of soil, the level of passage groundwater and depth of soil freezing. But for a light chain-link fence, possible movements of the supports of a few centimeters in height are insignificant, so in practice they use a simple rule - at least 40% of the post must be in the ground. That is, a post for a fence 1.5 m high should be about 2.1 m long for any installation method, but full concreting is optimal.

In practice the process looks like this:

1. Install corner (or end, if there are gates and gates) posts, strictly controlling their verticality using a level.
2. Prepare holes for intermediate posts according to the preliminary markings. The presence of a drill in normal (without roots and large stones) soil makes the work much easier!
3. After the concrete has hardened, pull a cord along the top of the posts to control the height of the intermediate supports being installed, and another one at the bottom to control the placement of all posts on the same line.
4. To make it easier to level the pillars in height, fill the bottom of the holes with sand, gravel or small crushed stone and simply change the height of this cushion by adding or removing material.
5. Pour the height-adjusted racks with concrete with level control, and install stops and supports if necessary.

Further installation should be carried out only after the concrete has hardened (at least one week); the posts must be primed and painted.

Instructions for building different types of chain link fences

Before you start building a chain-link fence with your own hands, you should determine the purpose of the fence, the basic requirements for aesthetics and strength. Indeed, in one case you need a powerful fence made of a non-standard mesh with 4-5 mm wire for grazing livestock, in the other you need a beautiful and elegant fence in front of the house or a lightweight structure without frills on the borders of neighboring plots. For each task there is its own option.

The simplest fence for a site

Most easy way installation of a mesh fence - simply attach it to installed supports. For this work you will need an assistant, or better yet two.

1. Before fastening, roll out the chain-link on the ground to a distance of slightly more than one span between the posts.
2. Check the height level of the wire spirals and, if necessary, screw in or unscrew displaced ones. The fact is that it is not visible on the roll whether they are all at the same level, and after stretching the mesh it will be impossible to align the links.
3. Immediately bend the edges of the spirals with pliers to avoid injury and the possibility of the mesh unraveling during installation.
4. As you fasten the mesh, unwind it further.

There are several ways to attach a chain-link to racks, but it is highly advisable to attach not the mesh itself (to avoid its deformation), but inserted vertically into its link metal rod with a diameter of 6-10 mm. Using another similar pin, inserted a little further, the assistant should pull the fabric.

This does not require any blocks, levers or complex structures for tensioning, moreover, excessive efforts by one person can lead to deformation and stretching of the 2 mm wire mesh!

The rod can be attached to the support like this:

• just tie it to a post with soft wire. Most quick way, but not too beautiful;
• use special clamps rather than wire;

Fastening with clamps

• put the pin on the pre-prepared hooks and bend them. Hooks made from pieces of wire with a diameter of 4-6 mm and a length of 50-80 mm should be welded to the stand at a distance of 400-500 mm from each other until the mesh is tensioned;

Fastening with hooks

• weld the rod (not the fabric!) to the post in several places, obtaining a permanent connection;
• stitch the mesh spiral with a rod, inserting it into pre-welded sections of pipe with a diameter of 1/4″ and a length of 15-20 mm. They should be placed on the support at the same distance as the hooks; the short length of the segments will allow them to fit into the grid cells. The most aesthetic way of dismountable connection.

End and corner posts will be tested permanent loads from the influence of a stretched mesh, so braces (stops) are required.

Corner post installation method

Fence option with guy wires

To ensure greater rigidity of the fence, better resistance to wind loads and to prevent sagging of the canvas, you can stretch one (from above) or several rows of cable or wire 4-6 mm thick.

Such strings can be attached to supports and tensioned using any in a convenient way, but most practical option– using special ties or tensioners.

String tensioner

When installing a chain-link fence with your own hands using guy ropes, the distance between the posts can be increased to 3 m. But it is worth considering that when tensioning, the load on the outer and corner supports increases many times over, so their rigidity should be increased in comparison with the supports for a simple tension fence.

Ideal option Fixing the fabric is through stitching the mesh along its length. But this process is long and labor-intensive, and the complexity increases with increasing diameter and stiffness of the cable or wire.

Therefore, in practice, the strings are first tensioned, then the chain-link is installed in the same way as described above simple method, and then after 200-300 mm the mesh is tied to the guy wires with galvanized binding wire with a cross-section of 1-1.5 mm.

Reinforced version with lags

To strengthen the supporting frame of the fence, logs should be welded to the installed posts, preferably from profile pipe. The main load in the fence will be compression, so the section of the log should ensure that the frame does not “fold” when the mesh is tensioned and the fence is subsequently used. With this installation method, there is no need for braces for corner and end posts.

Chain-link mesh on a frame with logs

Since most of the efforts will be applied in the upper part of the fence, the lower and intermediate logs (if any) can be replaced with reinforcement, rolled wire, or strings even stretched, as in the previous method. Screw the mesh fabric to the frame with wire.

A fence with logs will be a good foundation for the future, if there is a need to decorate the fence by hanging additional material. You can also easily replace the chain-link with corrugated sheets or slate, making the fence much more solid.

Practical sectional solution

Sectional fence

A fence made of sections, which are frames from a corner with a mesh fixed inside, is the most difficult to manufacture, but has a lot of advantages and benefits:

• such a design is the most beautiful and impeccable from an artistic perspective;
• each section is separate and rigid structural element, therefore, there will be no issues with the mesh sagging and loss of protective properties;
• if necessary, sections can be dismantled and the posts can be used to build new fences;
• possibility of installation with large slope fenced area. It is believed that the chain-link mesh can be stretched when the ground level rises no more than 6° (which corresponds to a slope of 1:10). If these values ​​are greater, the right decision there will be a sectional fence with uniform ledges.

Sectional fence with ledges

To manufacture the section, a solid-rolled steel angle with a flange of 40-50 mm is used.

1. Using a grinder (preferably a mounting saw), cut off parts of the required size strictly perpendicularly.
2. Lay the frame on a flat surface (or level all the corners using pads), carefully measure the diagonals. To avoid twisting, the frame should be cooked in opposite corners.
3. In the finished frame, clean the seams, prime and paint it (it is much easier to repair areas burnt from welding than to paint the corner under the mesh!).
4. It is necessary to install the mesh fabric through rods, which can be welded or installed on hooks and bent (as with racks). At the same time, fasten the first pin on the side of the frame, after tensioning the mesh - on the opposite side, and then on the top and bottom.
5. Do not apply excessive force when tensioning, otherwise the section may “fold” inward. Fastening on all sides, even with minimal tension, will prevent the canvas from “worrying” and sagging.
6. The distance between the supports should be calculated so that there is a gap of 40-80 mm between the support and the frame (or make sections based on the already known distance between the posts).
7. To attach the sections to the posts, weld metal dies (approximately 6*60*250 mm) in advance.
8. The frames can be attached to the dies using either electric welding or bolts, resulting in a collapsible structure.

Approximate diagram of fastening sections

Video: do-it-yourself chain-link fence

How to decorate a chain-link mesh - original solutions

Many people do not want to make a fence from chain-link mesh, considering it impersonal, too simple, and refuse this option in favor of other materials. Completely in vain! There are many ways to make such a fence original and unique, here are some of them.

Making patterns from wire. A labor-intensive method, but beautiful and for a long time.

The use of polymer multi-colored tapes and cords. Bright, elegant, but not too durable.

Elegant appliques made from ribbons and cords

Living plants. Always relevant, but beautiful only during the active growing season and flowering. And from autumn to spring, if the dried stems are not removed in a timely manner, it looks very untidy. You can use artificial greenery in the same way.

Light-shading nets. They are various colors and degree of light transmission. They significantly increase the windage and weight of the fence, so they are not suitable for a simple tension fence.

Application of light-shading mesh

PVC photo fence or decorative photo grid. New, expensive, beautiful and luxurious material. It is also worth using with a powerful frame or sectional fence solution, hanging over the chain-link.

At this point, the question of how to make a mesh fence with your own hands can be considered closed. Good luck in construction, and may the fence made with the help of the advice received please you for many years!

Rabitz - practical material, ideal for creating fences, especially boundary ones. This is due to its strength, the absence of shadows from the fence and ease of installation. Today we will look at the nuances of choosing a chain-link mesh, as well as the main issues regarding the technology of its installation.

Types of mesh

The strength of the fence, its appearance and cost will directly depend on what type of mesh you choose. There are three main types of chain-link mesh:

• plasticized;
• black non-galvanized;
• galvanized.

The plasticized mesh is coated with polymer protective layer, which extends the life of the material, making it more resistant to corrosion. In addition, this coating is available in a variety of colors, so the mesh fence can be matched to the roof or facade of the house.

Non-galvanized or, as it is also called, black chain-link mesh is the most inexpensive variety. But it has a significant drawback - a short service life (3-4 years) due to rapid rusting. For longer service life, the mesh will need to be regularly painted or treated with water-repellent compounds.

Galvanized chain-link tolerates well high humidity, does not rust and, unlike black mesh, does not need regular painting. However, its price is much higher.

Also, the mesh can have different cell shapes and sizes. The shape does not affect anything other than appearance, but you should pay attention to the size of the cells when choosing. They can vary from 2.5 to 6 cm, and the smaller the cell, the stronger the fence. Accordingly, the price of fine mesh will be higher.

To determine this parameter, you need to take into account the intended purpose of the fence. For example, to build a pen for small domestic animals and birds, it is better to use a medium-sized mesh, and for demarcation suburban area or a dacha would be suitable and coarse material.

How to make a chain-link fence

There are two ways to make a fence from a chain-link mesh - make it from a chain-link and a section corner and then connect them, or secure the mesh between pre-installed support pillars.

In the second case, the cost of the fence will be lower and its installation will be simpler, but appearance such a fence is inferior to a sectional one. The first option is more beautiful and durable, but will require additional costs for the purchase of corners for the sections. Below we will look at both methods, but before that you should figure out which supports for a mesh fence are best to use, because in any of the options you cannot do without them.

Chain-link fence posts

When installing chain-link mesh, wooden or metal supports are usually used. Wooden posts are less durable, and their use is justified only if it is possible to purchase the material inexpensively, and the fence itself will be temporary.

Before starting work, wooden supports should be thoroughly cleared of bark and trimmed to the required length. They are usually buried 15 cm below the soil freezing level. The underground part of the pillars must be impregnated with a waterproofing compound, and the rest of the surface must be painted, this will extend the life of the fence. The mesh is usually secured to such supports with nails or special clamps.

Metal poles are used more often due to their durability. As a standard for these purposes, round or square pipes with a cross section of 6-12 cm, while the thickness of their walls should be 2 mm or more. If you have an acute issue of saving, then you can buy pipes from a scrap metal dealer, choosing, although not new, fairly durable products without traces of corrosion.

Those who are not strapped for money can purchase ready-made supports designed specifically for installing the mesh. They are already painted and equipped with mounting hooks.

As an alternative to metal and wood, you can use concrete supports. However, in this case, you will have to face difficulties when installing the chain-link, since it can be secured only with the help of special brackets or cables woven into the mesh, and this is not very convenient.

Chain-link tension fence

The secret of reliable and durable fencing lies not only in the use of high-quality materials, but also in observing the technological aspects of its assembly. Let's look at how to make a fence from a chain-link mesh, securing it between metal supports. The width of the mesh installed in our example is 2 m.

Installation of such a fence will not require significant effort and even two people can handle it. To do this, it is not necessary to have construction skills; the main thing is to approach each stage of the work responsibly.

Marking the area for the fence

The construction of a fence begins with marking its outline. To do this, marks (small wooden or metal pegs) are driven into the corners of the area and connected to each other with a cord or rope. Then you need to measure the length of the rope - this will be the required footage of the net. But when purchasing, it is advisable to take material with an allowance of several meters.

It must be taken into account that it is possible to build a fence from a tension chain-link mesh only on a relatively flat area, since it is problematic to secure it in an inclined position. If there is a significant slope, then terracing is the only solution. To do this, at the junction different heights you will have to install a pole (stronger and longer than the others), to which different sides and parts of the mesh will be attached at different levels.

Installation of pillars

In the designated places you need to dig holes for support pillars. Optimal depth wells - 120 cm. Installation should begin with corner supports, which bear the greatest pressure.

First of all, layers of crushed stone and sand are poured onto the bottom of the pits, each of which is carefully compacted. Then the lower part of the pipes is treated with an anti-corrosion compound, the supports are installed in the wells and filled with concrete. The solution is mixed from one part sand and two parts crushed stone and cement. The amount of water is added so that the mixture is not very liquid.

Note! When installing supports, it is necessary to check their verticality using a building level.

The concrete around the support posts should be pierced several times with a bayonet shovel to compact it. After the corner supports, all the remaining ones are installed in the same way, and their location, in order to avoid distortions, must be controlled using a pre-tensioned cord.

You can proceed to installing the mesh only after waiting for the concrete to completely harden; this will take about 7 days. If you don’t want to wait, you can do without using mortar when strengthening the pillars. To do this in free space a layer of rubble stone is poured into the pits, compacted, then a layer of soil is placed on top and compacted again. The finishing touch is another layer of stone. This method, like concrete, gives the fence sufficient stability.

Stretching the mesh and securing it to poles

If you purchased ordinary pipes, and not special supports already equipped with hooks, then after the foundation has dried, you will need to weld fasteners onto the posts. They can be nails, scraps of strong wire and other similar materials that can be bent into the shape of a hook.

Next, it’s time to install the mesh. The tensioning of the chain-link begins with the first corner support, hanging the mesh on the hooks. To prevent it from bending, a metal rod with a cross-section of at least 3 mm is inserted into the first row of cells and welded to the post.

Then the mesh is unwound further, to the next support. To ensure uniform tension, it is better to do this by holding onto a reinforcing rod threaded vertically into the cells. It is more convenient for two people to distribute the net along the supports, so that one participant monitors the top edge and the other the bottom. If possible, it is worth involving another person in the process, who will simultaneously put the chain-link on the hooks.

It is better to strengthen the fence with rods welded to the posts along the top and bottom along its entire length, this will protect the mesh from sagging. For a high fence, you can also weld several stiffeners in the center.

Advice! The corner supports should not be surrounded by a single piece of mesh; it should be cut and each part secured separately. This will reduce the load on the pillars.

If during work you run out of a roll of mesh in the middle of the span, you can remove the wire from the outermost row of the chain-link, attach the fabric to the new one and connect them, weaving it between them. In this case, you will get a continuous fabric without seams.

After the entire mesh around the perimeter of the site has been deployed, you need to bend the fastening hooks on the supports. If there is any unnecessary remaining material, you should step back one cell from the fixed edge and cut off the excess.

The finishing touch is painting the posts of the finished fence. If you choose a non-galvanized chain-link for the fence, you should paint it too. It is advisable to twist the wire tendrils that will remain on the upper edge of the mesh together in several turns and bend them down so that no one is injured by them. The fence is ready.

Sectional chain-link fence

Device sectional fence made from chain-link also deserves separate consideration. The main difference between this design and the previous one is the presence of separate frame sections on which the mesh is fixed.
All preparatory work and the technology for installing supports are similar to those described above, however, it is recommended to choose stronger ones, since they will have to support more weight.

For the frame you will need to purchase a corner with a wall thickness of at least 4-5 mm. The dimensions of the frame are determined as follows: 10-15 cm are subtracted from the distance between the supporting pillars and the height of the pillar above the ground level. The resulting parameters will be equal to the length and width of each section.

The corners are connected by welding at right angles to each other, so that a rectangle of the required size is formed.

Next, straighten the chain-link roll. If its dimensions do not correspond to the frame, the excess can be cut off with a grinder. To secure the mesh, you need to insert reinforcing bars along all edges of the fragment, and then weld them to the frame. Thus, you should end up with a section of four corner fragments, inside of which a mesh is welded onto the rods.

To fix the sections on the supports, small strips of metal are attached to the posts. The optimal length for them is from 15 to 30 cm, width – about 5 cm and thickness – 5 mm. The strips are welded in a horizontal position, retreating about 20 cm from both edges of the supports. The sections are then placed between the posts and welded to the strips. It is recommended to paint the finished fence.

To summarize, we can say that self-construction Chain-link fencing is a simple task that almost anyone can do. All you need is a couple of helpers, materials and the right attitude. Good luck!

Fence - required element any private property. If country houses experts recommend fencing with more reliable protective structures, then summer cottages - their practical and inexpensive options. Most suitable material for a country fence - chain-link mesh. With its help, you can not only make a durable one, but also increase the productivity of the beds, since the design does not interfere natural ventilation on plot of land, and also does not block the sun's access to it. To build a chain-link fence with your own hands, you don’t need to be a professional. This article will reveal all the secrets of craftsmen in installing a practical fence without welding, and will also tell you what tools and materials you need to have to perform such work.

Features of chain-link mesh, its advantages

Rabitz - universal material, which is indispensable in summer cottages. It has many advantages that make it even more popular among buyers. These include:

• affordable price. Rabitz - a budget option material for the construction of a fence, because not every homeowner is able to allocate a decent amount of money to install a more expensive structure at the dacha;

• long service life. High-quality galvanized mesh can retain its properties for several decades. original appearance(up to 40-50 years old). It does not rust when correct operation not deformed.
• the need to use a minimum number of tools and fastening materials during the installation of the fence;

Important! You can install a chain-link fence using either welding or without it. Installation without welding is ideal for people who do not know how to work with such equipment.

• ease of care of the material;
• The mesh does not interfere with natural air circulation and does not shade the area.

Important! A chain-link fence serves as an ideal fencing not only for beds, flower beds or vegetable gardens, it is also indispensable in the process of arranging children's rooms. playgrounds, enclosures for pets, etc.

Material classification

Depending on the material of manufacture, chain-link mesh comes in three types:

1. Non-galvanized.
2. Galvanized.
3. Plasticized.

Non-galvanized mesh is enough cheap material. Of course, it is more affordable, but its long service life can be doubted, since under the influence of moisture the surface very quickly becomes covered with rust.

Galvanized mesh is the most popular among customers. It is a little more expensive than its non-galvanized counterpart and does not rust, which is really very valuable.

Plasticized material – modern version, but more expensive. During its manufacturing process, polymers are used that properly protect metal mesh from the action of moisture. Plasticized mesh has different color scheme. Each homeowner is able to choose a material that will ideally suit the interior of the house, as well as complement it.

Instructions for craftsmen: how to make a simple chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Making a durable and reliable fence from a chain-link mesh is a fairly simple and interesting task. Its implementation does not require availability large quantity professional knowledge and skills. To work, you only need tools and materials, as well as the desire of the master.

There are two ways to make a galvanized fence from chain-link mesh:

1. Using a welding machine.
2. No welding.

Since not every homeowner has a welding machine at his disposal (or does not know how to use it), we will consider the option of installing a fence without using it.

Important! Installing a fence without welding will allow you to build a structure that will be less practical than its welded counterpart.

Tools and materials

To ensure that the construction of the fence does not cause difficulties, you must first stock up on all necessary tools and materials. During the work you will need:

• chain-link mesh (non-galvanized, galvanized or plasticized);
• support pillars (wooden, metal or reinforced concrete);
• special fastening hooks;
• sand, screenings, crushed stone and cement;
• shovel;
• building level;
• mounting tape;
• hammer or drill;
• bolts, nails or screws.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a galvanized mesh fence

The simplest option mesh fence for a summer residence - tension. Its installation will not take as much time as it might seem at first glance. For correct execution work, it is necessary to know and follow a clear sequence of the entire technological process.

Advice! To install a tension fence made of chain-link mesh, it is best to hire an assistant who will help you get the job done faster.

A chain-link fence is the best budget option for a summer cottage. Install such a fence with your own hands; you will appreciate its advantages not only personal experience, but you will also see by the increased amount of harvest received from the beds.

Video instruction: how to build a chain-link fence without welding with your own hands

Chain-link fence: photo