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Plastic box for pipes in the bathroom. Installing a plasterboard box for pipes What is the box made of in the bathroom

Communications are required in the bathroom. Open sewer and water pipes do not look aesthetically pleasing. A box made of plastic panels allows you to optimally hide the water supply and sewer risers. It looks great, can be easily dismantled if necessary, and provides access to all elements for Maintenance.

Advantages of using a plastic box

Hiding unsightly details is very useful. This allows you to refine the interior of the room, depriving it of awkward details. If you hide everything that spoils the decoration of the bathroom, then it will be joyful and complete. She will become neater and more presentable. A box made of plastic panels will best solve this problem.

When constructing this finishing element, it is important to take into account many points and ensure that it does not interfere with the ability to take meter readings. Known situations require decisive action without delay, it is necessary to be able to quickly implement renovation work to eliminate the accident. Taking this into account, it is worth thinking about the versatility of the product being created.

There are various execution options. Especially often, eye protection is made of plasterboard; and are often used. These options are each good in their own way, but the last solution turns out to be more reasonable and effective. The question of how to cover the pipes in the bathroom with plastic panels is more relevant. This method is more justified and easier to implement.


His positive traits are as follows:

  • A bathroom frame made of this material does not require further finishing.
  • Easy to dismantle while preserving all components. This can be useful when using pipelines with fittings and threaded connections.
  • Simple installation of the structure makes it good decision. It is easy to build it yourself without using unavailable resources.
  • High resistance to deformation and maintenance. The material has high flexibility and strength. The damage will not be fatal. Any panel can be easily replaced with a new one.
  • The compactness of the design is achieved by the insignificant thickness of the material.
  • A functional, convenient product that can withstand repeated assembly and disassembly and can be stored inside various items and accessories, since there are all conditions for this.

Despite all the huge number of advantages, this solution demonstrates minor disadvantages, one of which is low resistance to temperature deformation. A persistent odor cannot be a virtue either. Plastic degrades over time, and the air contains some components of this decomposition that are undesirable.

Preparatory stage of installation


Be sure to check all pipes before installing the box!

Immediately before hiding the pipes in the bathroom, you will need to do some preparatory activities. All pipes are carefully inspected. When found problem areas The defect must be eliminated while it is possible.

Advice! If new communications are carried out before installation, they should be carried out with maximum care with a minimum of complexity of connections. Any element can be at risk of breakdown, which may be accompanied by leaks.

  1. The dimensions and shape of the product must be carefully analyzed. Masking can be done in several ways. In some of them everything is closed completely, in others you can limit yourself to only a part, which allows you to leave more free space and consume material in smaller quantities. When completely closed, it becomes possible to get additional storage space for brushes, detergents and other substances.
  2. After taking accurate measurements, you can create an accurate design drawing. In it, carefully work out all the details regarding the location of inspection hatches and their parameters. This will ensure unobstructed elements and counters.
  3. When subsequently finishing the walls with tiles, you should first install protective structure. Then the tiles will only need to be laid on open surfaces. This allows you to reduce ceramic consumption. According to the drawing, it is worth calculating the material consumption; its supply should be 8% higher than the calculated one.
  4. For the case you will need to use sheet or rack panels. Installation will require metal profiles rack and guide types. Seam joints are supposed to be covered with skirting boards. In stock you need to have silicone sealant, self-tapping screws, a mounting knife, and inspection hatches.

Features of frame installation

First, guides are placed on the walls adjacent to the corner. This must be done in compliance with the level. These profiles determine the size of the entire structure. For control, you can use a bubble or tube building level.

Important point! Fastening the steel profile will be more reliable if you attach it to the wall with dowels and European screws. For installation on tiles, you will need metal screws installed in the seams between the tiles. In this case, you can only install it on already dry tiles. It is important to twist the screws extremely carefully and carefully. If the self-tapping screw becomes jammed during its rotation, the process should be stopped. The screw will not hold when twisted.

It makes sense to make the design more compact, since it is important to save a small bathroom space. For this reason, it is better to install guides closer to the pipes.

After installing the guides on the walls, you can begin to form the corner from the outside. A tight angle is required. The corner post is twisted from two guide-type profiles. In this case, the shelves are directed at right angles to each other. You can screw them together with self-tapping screws small size. Next, the resulting product is placed in place. For these purposes, the supporting profile type cd is cut into pieces corresponding to the length and width of the structure.

First, a corner stiffener is attached to one wall. The profile pieces are inserted into a guide mounted on the wall and the corner rib profile. Additional jumpers are needed in the middle, they will allow you to attach plastic panels. A building level must be used in the work; the box should not turn out crooked, it should look perfect.

How to sheathe the resulting frame with plastic panels

When the frame for the plastic box is completely ready, it can be immediately sheathed with plastic panels. You need to start by installing a starting profile. It is secured using self-tapping screws to one of the guides on the wall. You only need to attach it to one guide. If you fix starting profile on two guides on both walls, then installing the last plastic strip will be a real challenge. When securing, great care will be required, since the starting strip must not be damaged.


Then a small strip of plastic is measured and cut from its sheet. It is possible that the strip will be measured in length and width. To cut plastic, it is best to use a regular construction knife; it copes well with this manipulation.

One side of the plastic strip is inserted into the starting profile. On the other side you need to put on a plastic corner profile and secure it to the frame with self-tapping screws. The other side of the plastic box is sheathed in exactly the same way, with one exception. The last strip of plastic must be installed with the starting profile on. It is better not to secure this strip with self-tapping screws. It is much more convenient to install using silicone. She will hold on tight. If dismantling is necessary, the silicone can simply be cut off with a knife.

After installing the plastic, it’s time for the inspection holes. They need to be cut in predetermined places. Hatches are installed in the holes to provide access to meters and taps. Inspection hatches should also not be screwed down. It is much more practical to glue hatches onto a plastic box using good sealant. At this point the work can be considered completed.

Video: Pipe box in 30 minutes!

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Pipes left in sight are not the best addition to a bathroom interior. In order for the room to have a neat and complete look, communications need to be hidden. Moreover, it is advisable to do this in such a way as to have access to pipe connections, valves, meters and filters. The optimal solution This task will be making a box. Let's look at how to make a box for pipes in the bathroom from plastic panels.

Advantages of a plastic box

The structure for masking pipes can be made of plastic or. Each of these options is good in its own way, but in terms of practicality, the plastic box is the leader. It has many undeniable advantages:

  • Possibility of quick disassembly without damaging the material. This property of plastic construction is especially important for pipes joined using fittings and threaded connections, which are not insured against leaks. After repairing a breakdown or scheduled maintenance of pipes, the box is easily reassembled.
  • No need for further finishing. Plastic panels themselves are already a finishing touch decorative material, unlike drywall, which requires finishing.
  • Resistance to deformation and ease of repair. The plastic used to make the panels is strong and flexible, so it is less likely to be damaged than tiles, which can be accidentally broken. Even if one panel is damaged, it can be easily replaced with a new one without damaging the entire structure.
  • Moisture resistance. PVC is not afraid of water, does not rot, nothing will happen to the box, even if it is installed close to the bathtub or gets wet due to condensation forming on the pipes.
  • Easy to install. Installation of the box will take only a few hours and will not require the use of expensive or specific tools.
  • Affordable price. Plastic panels for bathrooms are one of the most inexpensive finishing materials.
  • Spacious and compact. Due to the small thickness of the panels plastic construction it is very roomy and will not take up much extra space in the bathroom, which is especially important for a small room.

The plastic box is very practical: it can be disassembled and assembled required amount once.

Preparatory work

Before you begin assembling the box, you need to carry out several preliminary activities.

  • Inspect all pipes that will be hidden. Eliminate defects while communications are visible. If a new pipeline is being installed at the same time, try to keep the number of connections to a minimum.
  • Decide what appearance the box will have in the bathroom. It can hide only a small area where the pipes pass, or take up enough large area. The advantage of the first option is the saving of material and the absence of the need to sacrifice free space. When choosing a more voluminous modification, additional space inside the structure can be adapted for storing things.
  • silicone sealant;
  • PVC skirting boards for masking joints;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • sharp construction knife.

Making the frame of the box

When installing the structure frame, follow the following instructions.

  • On the walls adjacent to the corner, install guides (UD profiles) that will determine the dimensions of the box. Don't forget to use a level. To attach load-bearing profiles to the wall, use European screws and dowels. If the surface is tiled, you can take metal screws 2.5 centimeters long and 3.5 millimeters in diameter. They are screwed into the seams between the tiles.

Tip: To save space in the bathroom, install profiles closer to the pipes. The minimum distance is 3 centimeters.

  • If the pipes run horizontally, place the profile parallel to the floor and secure it to it.
  • Start forming the outer corner. Twist a corner post from two UD profiles. Send their regiments to different sides at a right angle and connect with small screws - “fleas”.
  • Cut the CD supporting profile into pieces, the length of which will correspond to the dimensions of the structure. Attach the corner stiffener to the wall. Insert the finished profile pieces with one end into the guide installed at the first stage, and the other into the stiffening rib. Thus, both parts of the corner are connected to the profile.
  • Every 50 centimeters, add jumpers, which are necessary for the subsequent fastening of PVC panels.
  • The second corner profile is attached in a similar way to another wall.

We cover the frame with PVC panels

Once ready Basic structure, you can start covering it. This should be done in the following sequence:

  • Set up a starting profile. Carefully, avoiding deformation, secure it with fleas to the installed guide.
  • Measure a strip of plastic panel to the required length and cut it sharp knife.
  • Fix one panel in the starting profile, attach the second to corner profile and install it to another plane of the box. To connect, use the same “fleas” or “bugs”.
  • Assemble the second side of the box in the same way. Fix the starting profile on the last plastic panel, then secure it. If you do this with silicone, you can ensure ease of dismantling in the future if an emergency arises.
  • Cut inspection holes in places where you need unobstructed access to important elements pipeline: taps, meters and joints. By using silicone sealant secure special hatches in the holes.

Communications located in the bathrooms look unattractive, so in most cases, when starting an apartment renovation, the owners of the living space also want to build a plasterboard box for the pipes. Someone invites a master for this, but if there is even a minimal understanding of construction tool You can close the pipes yourself.





Selection of material and necessary tools

Constructing a box is not a complicated process, but there are some nuances in this work that are worth knowing for positive result. For installation you need to buy materials, and:

  • fasteners – connection elements, “seeds”, dowel-nails;
  • plaster;
  • silicone-based sealant - useful for sealing joints with the floor;
  • inspection hatch;
  • drywall
  • profile – and .

Material to create plasterboard construction

To work you will need tools, there are not many of them, so preparing it will not be difficult:

  • spatula;
  • screwdriver;
  • perforator;
  • drill 6 mm;
  • metal scissors;
  • screwdriver;
  • level;
  • roulette;
  • knife and hacksaw;
  • bath;
  • container for mixing the mixture.

Tools for working with drywall

Once everything is ready, you can assemble the plasterboard box, let's look at the step-by-step instructions.

Step-by-step instructions for making a pipe box

Before you start assembling a drywall box, you need to draw up a project. You should not ignore this stage, as it is one of the important ones, since the quality of the box made on your own depends on it.

Step-by-step instruction assemblies plasterboard box to hide sewer pipes, will be described using the example of a bathroom and toilet; the process of installing a structure to hide pipes in the kitchen is identical to that described.

There is no need to create an exact drawing, just make it schematic drawing with the dimensions of the future structure transferred to it.


Diagram of a plasterboard box for pipes

Watch the video: how to cover pipes with a plasterboard box.


  • Next, you need to mark on the floor and ceiling the location of the guide profile; for this you need a construction corner. Place the corner with the short edge to the corner at the intersection of the floor and the wall, and draw a straight line on the floor. The angle between the strip on the wall and the strip on the floor should be 90 degrees;

  • The same should be done on the ceiling.

The marking is ready, you can proceed to the next stage.

Mounting and installation of a frame made of profiles

Before the construction metal frame needs to be cut required quantity profile segments equal to the marked lines.

Watch the video: assembling the frame for the future gypsum plasterboard box.

How to install:

  • You need to start by installing guide profiles on the floor and ceiling, and then on the walls. They are installed strictly along the lines and secured with dowel nails. To do this, press the profile firmly to the floor and drill holes in the floor directly through it at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Insert dowels into the holes and screw in self-tapping screws;

  • After this, you can begin installing rack profiles. It is inserted along guides at the top and bottom. The profile is pressed and secured using dowel nails. The ends of the flexible connection are bent inward or cut off. The main requirement in this situation is that the profile must be level;
  • The next step will be the installation of a corner connecting profile; it is screwed with small self-tapping screws to the intersection of the guides at the corner of the future box;


Attaching the rack profile to the guide using self-tapping screws

  • Then the stiffening frame is mounted in the pipe box - the profile at the wall and the profile at the corner are connected in small sections. The segments are located strictly parallel to the floor at a distance of 30 cm from each other, along the entire height of the frame on both sides.

Important! The entire assembly must be controlled by level, even a small deviation, which can lead to poor-quality assembly of the structure. This instruction will help you assemble and install a box that can cover heating pipes.

Firstly, this structure is reinforced with profiles according to size.

Secondly, such hatches are quite heavy, so you need to secure it carefully, sparing no screws.

Also at this stage you need to determine where it will be installed ventilation grille, it is necessary to prevent condensation from forming inside the box.

Wanting to make their bathroom more neat and convenient, many people decide to hide the plumbing and sewer pipes. The best way to do this without transferring communications and with a minimum of dust - build a box for pipes in the bathroom. Collect plumbing box you can do it yourself, there are several options available for this.

The most common option for hiding pipes is to assemble a box from moisture-resistant plasterboard. This is due to the fact that ceramic tiles, which are most often used to decorate bathrooms, can then be glued onto the drywall. Let's consider the main stages of constructing a gypsum plasterboard box.

Stage 1: marking

Before starting to assemble the frame, markings are made at the installation site of the box. The initial mark is placed at a distance of 30–50 mm from the most protruding element of communications.


The frame stand is located at a distance of at least 3 cm from pipes and other communication units.

Next, using a level, a vertical line is drawn along the surface of the wall, indicating the line of fastening of the frame. A similar mark is placed on the other wall, as well as in areas where horizontal pipes are closed.

Note! It is advisable to select the size of the box for tiling in such a way that whole tiles are used to cover all protruding parts. In addition to saving tiles, this allows you to create a neat and complete cladding.

Stage 2: frame construction

Assembly of the frame begins with the installation of a guide profile, which is attached to the walls with dowels along the marking lines. The step between the attachment points is 20–30 cm. The guide profile is also attached to the ceiling and floor to form the angle of the frame and install the front pillar. To ensure that the corners of the frame below and above are located in the same plane, first the guide profile is attached at right angles to the ceiling. Then a plumb line is tied to it and a point is marked on the floor where it should be located. bottom corner frame.

A rack profile is screwed to the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling with self-tapping screws, which is fixed with 3-4 horizontal jumpers for additional mounting rigidity.

Note! Reinforcing jumpers are mounted taking into account the future location of inspection hatches providing access to valves and meters.

After assembling the vertical part of the frame, if available horizontal pipes a frame is assembled for them according to a similar scheme:

  • A guide profile is attached to the wall and floor, which sets the dimensions of the future box.
  • The front frame element is attached to the guides using jumpers cut from the rack profile.

All jumpers are also installed taking into account the location sewer outlet for connecting the toilet, inspection hatches and shut-off valves.

Stage 3: framing the frame

The finished frame is sheathed moisture-resistant plasterboard, cut into pieces of the required size. GKLV is cut with a sharp knife: first, the cardboard is cut along the line on one side (with a slight penetration into the gypsum core), then the sheet is broken along the cut line and the cardboard is cut on the second side. The sheathing is fastened to the frame using black self-tapping screws in increments of 15–20 cm. The place where the inspection hatch will be installed is not covered with plasterboard or a hole is then cut out.

Note! It is advisable that at this stage the inspection hatch has already been selected by type and size and purchased so that you can immediately try it on for a tight fit.

Types of hatches used for plasterboard boxes:


Stage 4: finishing

Before finishing the box must be prepared, this is done in the following sequence:

  1. All seams between the drywall are opened with a knife, then, along with the corners and other edges, they are sanded.
  2. The seams are filled with putty, and sickle tape is glued on top.
  3. The corners are also treated with a putty mixture and glued with sickle tape.
  4. After the putty has dried, the box is treated with a primer in two passes, with a break for each layer to dry.

The plasterboard box is most often lined ceramic tiles: A continuous layer of tile adhesive is applied to the back of the tile, which is smoothed with a notched trowel. The tile is applied to the drywall and pressed, then the next one is glued. Having completed the installation, the seams are rubbed over conventional technology, and the corners are covered with decorative elements of a color matching the finish.

It is written in detail about laying tiles on drywall.

Plastic box

Another frequently used material for hiding communications is PVC panels. A plastic box for pipes in the bathroom is most often constructed if the walls and/or ceiling are covered or planned to be covered with plastic. Let's look at how to properly make a plastic box with your own hands when hiding sewer riser in Khrushchev.

Frame assembly

The frame, as for a gypsum plasterboard box, is assembled from guides and rack profiles according to a similar scheme:

  • The guides are attached to the wall using dowels.
  • Outside corner formed using a profile secured with jumpers. Fastening of all elements of the metal frame is carried out with so-called bugs or fleas - metal screws 13 or 16 mm long.

Advice! If behind the pipes there is free space, can be secured using any corners wooden shelf, and then install an additional hatch in the casing. This simple way will create a convenient storage space. household chemicals or other items.


Frame covering

Conventional plastic panels are used to cover the frame. Depending on the size of the frame, you can choose a strip width of 10 or 25 cm. The frame is sewn in the following order:


If pipes pass through the box that are not planned to be closed (for example, heating pipes or a heated towel rail), then to carefully handle them proceed as follows:

  • The starting profile is attached to the frame close to the wall.
  • Cutouts are made in the plastic panel at one edge for approximately half the diameter of the pipe.
  • The panel is cut to width and inserted into the space behind the pipe.
  • A cutout is also made in the next panel for the remaining diameter, and the panels are connected to each other.

This method allows you to make a neat outline of the pipe, and the remaining gap is subsequently filled with sealant.

Note! During the covering, marks are made on the plastic panels where the hole for the hatch will be located and its size.

Final stage

When the box is completely sheathed, according to the marks made in advance, using a jigsaw with fine teeth holes are cut for hatches.

For installation on plastic boxes, plastic folding or rotating hatches are used, which are selected according to size. The hatch is secured using silicone sealant, which is applied along the edges of the product. The hatch is then pressed against plastic sheathing, and the protruding sealant is removed.

If there is no handle in the opening hatch cover, opening it is not very convenient. For convenience, you can use a regular self-tapping screw to screw on a plastic furniture handle that matches the color.


To make it more convenient to open the hatch, a handle is screwed onto the door.

Outer corner closes plastic skirting board, which is fixed with silicone sealant.

Advice! It is recommended to fix the outer corner while the sealant sets masking tape so that he doesn't leave.

The final touch is to fill the gaps between the pipe and the plastic lining with white sealant.

Collapsible box options

In conclusion, we will look at four ways to make a collapsible box in the bathroom, so that in case of emergencies or replacement of risers, you can provide access to them and do not have to break the entire structure.

Method 1

The plasterboard box is assembled independently frame structure, which is not attached to the wall. The box itself is glued to the already laid tiles with one-component polyurethane adhesive. To remove the box in the pipes that come out of it, quick-release connections of the “American” type are provided. If full access to the riser is necessary, the glue is carefully cut with a knife or other sharp object, and the box is carefully set aside.

Method 2

Another option for a removable box is that the frame is attached to the walls, as usual. Then plasterboard blanks are cut out along the frame to cover it, but are not screwed to the guides. The sheathing is fixed to the frame after gluing the tiles to the drywall: to do this, a hole is made in it and a self-tapping screw is screwed in. If access to the pipes is necessary, the screws are unscrewed, and all cladding (plasterboard + tiles) is carefully removed.

Method 3

To make it easier to disassemble and dismantle the plasterboard box, some craftsmen suggest setting the tiles on transparent silicone instead of cement tile adhesive. This method of fixation works fine if the base is drywall. When a thin layer of silicone is applied to the tile, it does not float on the base, and if necessary thick layer sealant, it is necessary to use plastic crosses to prevent the tiles from slipping. If necessary, disassembling such a box is much easier than when the tiles are glued with cement glue. From the edge inspection hatch the sealant layer is cut off hacksaw blade. Moreover, due to the fact that transparent silicone is used, it is visible where the screws securing the drywall are located and the entire structure can be disassembled.

Method 4

The simplest and a budget option collapsible design means assembling a box from PVC panels without installing a rigid frame. The essence of the method is as follows:

  • Guide profiles are glued to tiled cladding using liquid nails.
  • The starting profile is attached to the guides in the same way.
  • Plastic panels are inserted into the guides, and the front corner is connected using external corner with a wide shelf.

This design has no rigidity, but if access to the riser is necessary, it can be disassembled in just one minute.

Are you planning to renovate your toilet and don't know what to do with it? water pipes? Agree, a camouflaged pipeline looks much more aesthetically pleasing.

Various tricks and materials are used for this purpose. Often specialists from a construction organization are invited to work. Especially when you need to build a box for pipes in a plasterboard toilet. If the budget is limited and the pipes do not fit into the interior at all, then you can fix everything yourself by choosing a simpler option.

This article will discuss ways to camouflage a pipeline. We will tell you what tools and materials are required for this purpose. The material is accompanied themed photographs and videos that clearly demonstrate how with my own hands you can disguise the pipeline in the toilet.

When the budget does not include repair costs, and the pipes in the toilet are quite annoying, you can get by with minimal expenses. We are talking about decorating visible parts of the pipeline.

This method can be a real salvation when the head of the family, instead of repairing, chooses other ways to spend his leisure time - for example, fishing or basketball with friends. Moreover, both women and men can handle decoration. The main thing is to have inspiration.

Extraordinary fantasy and free time on your day off they will help you turn your thoughtful office into a realistic jungle

Depending on preferences and mood, the pipeline can be disguised as anything - turned into a tree, into an animal, or decorated with beautiful decorative elements.

Main types of decoration:

  • stick a film with a suitable pattern over the pipes;
  • paint with waterproof paint to match the color of the walls in the toilet room;
  • depict a unique pattern or reproduce a birch trunk, oak bark or other material using paints;
  • use decorative stones, beads, chains, twine and other elements used for needlework.

The simplest and most convenient option is to paint the pipes with paint that harmoniously matches the color of the walls. Or stick a film with a pattern.

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