What to make a septic tank from. How to make a septic tank for your dacha with your own hands: from improvised means to modern technologies. Location of septic tanks for summer cottages on the site

Let's ask ourselves a simple question: what is needed for comfortable stay V country house? The answer to this is obvious to anyone who was forced to use the “conveniences” in the yard.

Decorative finishing, landscape design and other decorations will not be made without a properly functioning sewage system a private house a complete alternative to a city apartment.

A familiar attribute of rural “comfort” - a cesspool, above which a primitive backlash-closet proudly rises - today gives way to a more efficient structure - a septic tank.

The main difference between a septic tank and cesspool is that that water flowing out of it does not contain biological contaminants.

In the cesspool, all waste gradually seeps into the ground, polluting the upper aquifer. It is clear that drinking such liquid even after boiling is unsafe.

A properly designed septic tank for country house does not create unpleasant odor and does not require frequent pumping. Its design cannot be called complex, so the construction of such a structure can be done without special costs do it yourself.

How does a septic tank work?

First, a little theory. The capacity of the septic tank directly depends on the daily volume of sewage from the toilet and kitchen. If 3 people permanently live in a dacha, then the daily amount of waste, as a rule, does not exceed 400 liters.

However, we will not dig a septic tank of exactly this volume, because it must not only accept wastewater, but also dilute it to a safe concentration. Therefore, the working volume of a septic tank for a family of 3 people must be at least 1 m3 (1000 liters). The hole for it needs to be dug wider and deeper to the thickness of the walls and bottom (15-20 cm).

Anyone who wants to make a septic tank with their own hands competently and efficiently must understand the principle of its operation. You can make a demonstration model of such a structure in your kitchen by taking an ordinary plate and filling it to the brim with water. We will assume that this is the bowl of our septic tank. Now let’s add a little water into it and see that exactly the same amount of liquid has flowed over the edges of the plate.

This is exactly how the simplest single-chamber septic tank works. First, it is filled to the level of the outlet pipe clean water. After this, each new portion of sewage dissolves in its volume, increasing it by several centimeters general level liquids. This excess flows into a drain pipe laid in a trench with filter soil.

Figure 1 schematically shows the structure of a septic tank in a country house from which it can be seen that his drain pipe is smooth. However, in reality this is not the best option, because not everything that goes into the septic tank falls to the bottom. “Something” floats freely on the surface, so it can go along with the water into the drainage trench, which is very undesirable.

To eliminate this problem, the end of the outlet pipe is made bent, lowering it 5-10 cm into the water. This simple solution reliably cuts off floating sewage from the waste pipe.

In practice, I made this withdrawal very simply. I used the standard one plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, and the usual shaped “90 degree angle” was attached to its end.

Septic tank design

The word construction in this context sounds loud. In fact, in order to build a septic tank in a private house, I had to dig a rectangular hole 1.4 meters deep, 1.2 meters wide and 1.6 m long. As a result, I got a volume of 2.68 m3.

This may seem like too much, but do not forget that 60 cm in length and 15 cm in depth will “eat up” the walls of the concrete bowl. Therefore, its final volume will not be 2.68 m3, but only 1.46 m3. In addition, the septic tank needs a concrete cover with reinforcement, which will take another 0.17 m3 of its volume.

Serving and sewer pipe we will not lie on the ground, so installing them at a depth of 0.2 meters from the bottom of the septic tank lid will reduce its useful volume by another 0.23 m3. As a result, my septic tank will contain 1.46 - 0.17 - 0.23 = 1.06 m3, that is, exactly as much as is needed for a family of 3 people.

The construction of the tank begins with the installation of formwork in a dug hole. Any flat boards will do for this. I made a frame from them and covered it with regular 5 mm plywood. To prevent heavy concrete from “pushing out” the formwork, spacers made of thick bars must be installed on top and diagonally of the formwork. Dry clay soil – good replacement formwork, so I used its walls in this capacity.

To avoid cracks in concrete walls I reinforced the septic tank with steel wire with a diameter of 5 mm, installing it vertically and horizontally along the entire perimeter of the formwork. I started concreting from the bottom of the pit, laid concrete 15 cm thick there. The solution for preparing concrete was made strong in a cement-sand ratio of 1 to 3.

Since the thickness of the walls is relatively small (15 cm), I brought small crushed stone for concrete (the “seed” fraction is 5-10 mm). After pouring the formwork, the concrete must be given time to gain strength. 2 weeks will be enough for this. It gains brand strength according to SNiP in 28 days.

This is how my single-chamber homemade septic tank turned out after removing the formwork. After removing the panels, do not forget to treat the walls of the concrete container with a waterproofing liquid.

The lid of the container does not have to be made too thick, but it must be well reinforced with steel reinforcement with a thickness of at least 14 mm, placing it every 20-30 cm.

How to make formwork for the lid? Here's the question! We won’t be able to remove it later. The best way out from this position there will be an ordinary galvanized corrugated sheet, in the “rivulets” of which the reinforcement will conveniently fit.

Just don't forget to make a distance gap. To do this, all the reinforcing bars around the perimeter of the lid must be raised by 3-4 centimeters and a profiled sheet of formwork must be tied to them with wire (every 15-20 cm) (Fig. 2)

What to do if the soil is clayey?

An ordinary cesspool will “work” normally only in sandy soil, which absorbs waste well. If the soil on the site is loamy or clayey, then only wastewater from the toilet can be directed into the cesspool. Large volumes dirty water You cannot dump it from the kitchen and shower into it, because after 1 week it will overflow (clay prevents water from quickly absorbing into the soil). It turns out that there is no alternative to a septic tank when permanently residing in a private house or country house.

What to do if nature has not blessed your site sandy soil? We will eliminate this problem by properly designing a drainage trench.

The outlet pipe through which treated wastewater enters the ground must have many small holes. Today there are ready-made ones on sale corrugated pipes, in which drainage holes have already been punched at the factory.

Since the soil on my site is clayey and absorbs water very poorly, I bought a drainage pipe 15 meters long. I laid 10 meters in a straight line, and the remaining “tail” was turned at an angle of 45 degrees around the corner of the house to the fence. To be on the safe side, I provided an additional reserve: if the absorbency of the soil at such a length were not enough, then I would dig another 7-8 meters of drainage trench along the fence.

However, as tests after completion of construction showed, 15 meters of drainage pipe was enough for the waste to be safely absorbed into the soil.

Clay soil, although slowly, still absorbs water, so to increase the area of contact with it drainage pipe should lie in a layer of coarse crushed stone. It receives the bulk of the incoming water and distributes it evenly over the entire area of the trench.

Important detail! To protect against silting, crushed stone must be “packed” in geotextiles - synthetic fabric with numerous micro-holes. The general design of the drainage trench that I built at my dacha is shown in Figure 3.

For frost protection- the main enemy of the septic tank during severe frosts, you need to lay a layer of sheet foam at least 5 cm thick on the crushed stone of the trench and the lid of the container. After this operation, the entire structure can be safely covered with a layer of soil 15-20 cm thick.

Bacteria will come to the rescue

Despite the simplicity of the design, a single-chamber septic tank works efficiently and completely removes everything domestic waste. However, for better cleaning he needs our help. To do this, a dry culture of bacteria is added to the septic tank, which accelerates the process of biological decomposition of sewage thousands of times, breaking it down into safe components - water and carbon dioxide.

The choice of such drugs today is quite large. Products for cesspools from the Bioseptic line and other companies are sold in almost every hardware store. By pouring the required portion of these microscopic workers into the septic tank, we will purify the wastewater to such a state that you can safely water your garden with it.

For their successful work one thing needs to be observed important condition– no chlorine in Wastewater Oh. Therefore, immediately switch to oxygen-containing ones detergents and do not pour other “caustic chemicals” down the drain.

That's all that's useful practical advice, which will help you bring the comfort of your dacha closer to the city level.

A cesspool is the simplest, but not very successful option. autonomous sewerage at a private house. Modern technologies offer more convenient solutions, such as local treatment stations industrial production.

A skilled builder is quite capable of making a septic tank with his own hands without pumping. What options for odorless septic tanks are popular among owners of private houses and what is required for their construction - we will consider all this in our article.

We will also give an example of assembling a septic tank from concrete rings and compare ready-made solutions, offered by the market, with homemade products.

They are called septic tanks sewerage facilities, which almost completely recycle wastewater, decomposing it into safe components.

All work on the transformation of human waste is assigned to microorganisms. Aerobic and anaerobic bacteria gradually convert unappetizing sewage masses into water and activated sludge.

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If the device is insulated and properly preserved, it is not afraid of either winter frosts or spring floods. It will not float or crack, even if some of its contents freeze.

It is important, of course, to install the device correctly. During wastewater treatment, bacteria effectively eliminate the characteristic sewage odor.

The resulting water, of course, is not suitable for drinking, cooking, washing or other household needs. With a high degree of purification, it can be used to water plants on the site.

Often water is removed through a filtration well or filtration field. Water gradually enters the soil, passing through a purification system, a layer of sand and crushed stone.

The sludge that settles at the bottom of a sealed container, of course, does not go anywhere. It accumulates, as a result of which the total volume of the septic tank decreases slightly. When the amount of deposits becomes critical, the device should be cleaned using a special pump.

Cleaning a septic tank is performed much less frequently than pumping out a cesspool, and this process is usually not accompanied by a stench, since the sludge has a completely neutral odor.

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The outside of the septic tank is covered with a layer of waterproofing. Some craftsmen recommend lubricating not only the joints, but the entire container of the device

The trench for the sewer pipe leading from the house to the septic tank without pumping and odor is laid with a slight slope. At the junction of the septic tank and the pipe, a hole of suitable dimensions is made in the thickness of the concrete.

In the same way, overflow pipes are installed that connect the individual parts of the septic tank. All connections between the septic tank and pipes must be sealed and covered with a layer of waterproofing.

Instead of cement mortar, a gravel-sand filter is placed at the bottom of the last section of the septic tank. First, sand is poured and leveled, and then a layer of gravel is added.

It is also possible to use crushed stone of a suitable fraction for these purposes. The thickness of the filtration layer should be approximately 30-40 cm.

As the top cover of a septic tank made of concrete rings, a special round slab of suitable size with a sealed lid is used

After all the compartments of the septic tank are ready, you need to cover them with round concrete slabs, which can be purchased from reinforced concrete manufacturers complete with concrete rings.

These lids have holes with sealed concrete lids. All that remains is to backfill the pits, and the septic tank can be considered ready for use.

Other options for homemade septic tanks

In addition to concrete rings, other materials can be used to create a septic tank. Let's consider the most popular materials and options for manufacturing septic tanks.

Option #1 – septic tank from a Eurocube

We have already mentioned the Eurocube - a sealed plastic container.

Installing such a septic tank is relatively easy, but the low physical weight of the plastic should be taken into account. During a spring flood, groundwater can simply push a light container to the surface.

To make such a septic tank heavier, a concrete slab with metal loops. The container is fixed to these loops using a metal cable. Sometimes such a septic tank is made heavier with the help of some heavy object, which is fixed at the top of the device.

Option #2 – monolithic concrete structure

A concrete septic tank can be made using pouring. In this case, it is not necessary to make several pits; you can get by with one structure big size and rectangular configuration.

First, the bottom is concreted, then the formwork is installed and the walls of the septic tank are poured. To divide a large container into several sections, concrete walls are made inside.

For filling concrete septic tank using the solution you will need to build wooden formwork, in which holes are immediately made for overflow pipes

You can make a septic tank with your own hands from concrete blocks or bricks, but the masonry must be as airtight as possible.

Another option is to make. However, such material cannot provide sufficient tightness to protect the soil from untreated wastewater.

Using tires, you can only make a permeable cesspool. The lifespan of such a device is significantly limited, unlike capital septic tank, which with proper maintenance can last for decades.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

This video presents in detail the option of creating a two-chamber septic tank:

Of course, a homemade septic tank does not always provide the same high degree cleaning like modern VOCs. But still, these structures function very successfully at relatively low costs for their installation and maintenance.

When constructing a septic tank, it is important to adhere to technical standards to prevent contamination groundwater.

Do you use a homemade septic tank without pumping? Tell us what type of structure you preferred and does your family have enough volume? How often do you clean and what steps do you take to prepare your septic tank for winter?

Leave your comments under our article - your experience of construction and operation homemade septic tank will be useful to many owners of private houses and summer cottages.

The problem of sewerage and wastewater is very close to the owners of private houses. After all, it is difficult for residents of megacities to imagine life without sewerage. And it’s not just a matter of imagining such a life, it’s more likely that no one will be able to imagine life without it due to an irreplaceable need. But in private houses in the suburbs this is a major problem. Moreover, everyone is forced to solve it on their own.

How to arrange a sewer system, and most importantly, where to dispose of the waste? Of course, nowadays there are a lot of options.

The easiest way out is to build a cesspool. But then another problem arises: sooner or later, depending on the size of the pit, waste pumping will be necessary. Which, in turn, will entail additional cash expenses, which, in fact, can be avoided. Moreover, the construction of a sewer system in a private house, taking into account a cesspool, can lead to overflow of the well on the site. And to lose drinking water in a private home this is a much more serious problem.

Based on this, the most practical option would be to build a septic tank. We will tell you how to make a septic tank with your own hands later. We’ll also talk about their varieties, features and easy installation. We will help you make simple calculations to choose the volume that is right for your family. A septic tank is most practical when used in a private home. All because it will help you make an autonomous sewer system. Thanks to it, wastewater naturally decomposes into water, carbon dioxide and many other environmental elements, which then fall into the ground and do not harm it. This way you avoid the problem of sewage and do not harm the environment.

A septic tank is a very simple construction that can be easily done by almost anyone with their own hands without special construction skills, which will help avoid the cost of workers.

Many, relying on ancient methods, still decide to build cesspools on their site, when more advanced residents are already thinking about how to make a septic tank with their own hands.

Essentially, both members of the population have the right to make this choice. In order to understand which is more profitable, convenient and environmentally friendly, you just need to understand the mechanism of both buildings.

Let's start with the cesspool. Already in the title a lot becomes clear. This is a storage pit for waste waste, which is connected to the sewer system of a private house. Everyone understands that the drains from it do not evaporate and over time it will fill up. Then it already arises new problem: pumping out a cesspool. And these are additional costs, which can be considerable if the site is located in the outback or if sewer trucks are used frequently. From this follows the logical assumption that you can save money and simply make a larger hole. But there is no point in making it larger than the car tank, because then you will need to call more than one such car to pump it out, which may be even more expensive than you expected. It is also wrong to assume that you will need to call cars so rarely that these expenses will not become significant.

To understand the whole problem, let's turn to simple calculations. As stated in building codes and regulations, an average of two hundred liters of waste water per person per day, when calculating the sewage system. The tank of sewer trucks has a maximum capacity of ten thousand liters. Let's say you save a lot of water. But even with a great desire, you will not be able to reduce this figure below fifty liters per day per resident of the house. And we are already silent about the fact that most often more than one person lives in a house.

Now do you understand the scope of the problem? Of course, many decide to simply discharge wastewater into ditches or nearby rivers. But you understand, this is not a solution. Moreover, this way you spoil the environment around you.

Therefore there will be great solution problems building a septic tank on the site. Moreover, this construction is very simple and works on the flow principle. Effluents do not accumulate. From here there will be no overflow problems. Under the influence of anaerobic bacteria that are present in the septic tank, waste naturally decomposes into substances and then enters the soil. If necessary, wastewater can be further purified. Thus, under any circumstances, substances end up in the ground naturally. This eliminates the possibility of overflow and the need for pumping.

It is worth highlighting the environmental properties of the septic tank. All processes occur naturally.

Therefore, organic substances formed as a result of the action of a septic tank return to nature and participate in the cycle of substances in nature. Most importantly, they do not harm the environment in any way, and therefore will not harm the owners of the site and the surrounding areas.

Let us remember one of the main laws of the existence of organisms in nature, which we all learned in school: nothing disappears or appears out of nowhere. Hence the well-known law of the cycle of substances in nature. Wastewater is made up of billions of bacteria. They will be the most the best remedy for processing wastewater and separating it into organisms.

For the most efficient work microorganisms they should be provided best conditions for their life. This is exactly what current septic tanks for private homes do. We will talk later about how to make a septic tank with your own hands without pumping. The main thing to remember is that the design is very simple and does not require special knowledge to build it, which means you can actually do everything yourself. According to the principle of their operation, they are similar to the natural cycle of substances. What is the most common septic tank? In a standard situation, it includes several cameras. The first is most often called a sump. Because it is in this chamber that microorganisms are most active. All wastewater ends up here, and bacteria separate it into standard forms: solid, liquid and gaseous. Solid tailcoats form sediment. But microorganisms continue to decompose them into their usual forms, which eliminates the possibility of accumulation and overflow.

But the next camera is much more complex in its structure and functionality.

This is where gas fractions are collected. Under the influence of bacteria, upon accumulation, separation occurs into carbon dioxide and clean water. The gas is released into the air as the chamber overflows through the vent. And here pure water through a special well with filters, it is released into the ground practically without impurities or descends into a ditch without harming the environment.

If you want absolute wastewater treatment, then equip a third chamber. It will already have a sand and gravel filter for absolute water purification. The result is obtained thanks to soil microorganisms. They will act as an additional filter in your system.

For a more detailed idea, it’s worth typing into a search engine: how to make a septic tank in a private house with your own hands video.

Now I think it’s clear that the septic tank mechanism is based on the constant flow of wastewater. This helps avoid the need for pumping in almost everyone. But for perfect result Next we will tell you how to properly make a septic tank in a private house with your own hands.

Do not forget that according to building codes and regulations, a septic tank is only part of the cleaning systems. Therefore, water after such purification can only be used for technical needs or for watering the land on the owner’s property.

Like any construction, the main thing is to start with a construction project. In principle, in this construction the materials from which you plan to build a septic tank on your site are not at all important. The main role here will be played by the volume of cameras that you plan to use.

At the same time, the large volume that the desire to build immediately arises has its drawbacks. And all because bacteria work longer in a large chamber. Consequently, the water will be purified more for further processing. But with a large container, the drainage slows down. Hence, precipitation occurs for a long time and unevenly. Which can lead to clogging of the channels between the chambers and filters. As a result, less and less water will flow into the ground.

After this, we will still discuss how to make a septic tank without pumping with your own hands to avoid flooding. There are a lot of options for making cameras. Moreover, they are all simple. One option would be to purchase ready-made plastic containers with the required volume. You can also use concrete rings, which are most often used for the construction of wells. And the most difficult option is to make concrete chambers yourself. The main thing to remember here is the tilt sewer pipes. Drains should not linger inside it.

Do-it-yourself plastic septic tank for a private house

Ready-made plastic septic tanks make life much easier for owners. The design is sold assembled and this is the main advantage. The walls of the chambers are very thick for such purposes, which increases the service life due to the strength of the septic tank materials. They are able to withstand the pressure of the earth and the work of a microorganism inside for a long time. In terms of service life, they are almost equal to their concrete counterparts. But the cost is much cheaper, which can be a major bonus when choosing a septic tank of this type.

How to properly make a septic tank in a private house with your own hands? The manufacturers thought for you here. The varieties of these products are very huge. The containers can be the simplest, with varied uses of the septic tank. So there may already be a fully functional septic tank. It’s enough just to bury it and bring the sewer at the right angle, as we talked about earlier.

DIY septic tank for a private home made of concrete rings

IN in this case the work will be very convenient. The shape of such chambers will be in the form of cylinders. At the same time, the walls of the structure can be made airtight, thanks to a variety of sealants and concrete fillers.

The most common problem with septic tanks made of concrete rings is the depth of the pit itself and the small area of the sump. If the amount of wastewater is very large, then this will interfere with the leaching of decomposing substances by the activity of microorganisms, due to the huge layer accumulated. The solution to this problem is stirring. Here it is necessary to prepare a mechanism for such mixing in the structure of the building.

Monolithic concrete septic tank

Perhaps this will be the most optimal way to build a septic tank with your own hands for a private home.

How to make a septic tank with your own hands? There will already be several options for the master. You can use waterproof concrete or brickwork with concrete insulation in the end.

From the selected material, it is worth making the bottom and walls of the first chamber and subsequent ones. This process will be the most labor-intensive. Also, in terms of construction costs, it will be the most expensive construction option. If you calculated everything correctly and the work itself was completed top level, then the final result will be the best of the proposed options.

Do-it-yourself septic tank volume for a private home

Now let’s talk about the most important thing in our DIY septic tank construction. This is volume.

Let's start by remembering the building codes and rules for the construction of sewers and calculating the volume of daily wastewater in your home. Next, we need to decide on the number of chambers in our septic tank.

Let's look at the option with two cameras. For any options, the volume of the first chamber must be greater than three daily norms of daily wastewater from a private house, according to the standards. In this option, the first chamber should make up 75% of the total volume of our structure.

Therefore, we have 25% left for the second camera.

Option with three cameras. The first chamber rule remains the same under building codes. But in this case, it will already be half the volume of our septic tank. But the next two chambers will each be 25% of the total volume of the septic tank.

For a better understanding, we will look at calculating the volume of a septic tank per specific example.

Let's remember the building codes and regulations. According to which, daily norm sewage waste is equal to 200 liters per person. Let's say our family consists of four people. After simple calculations, we find out that the daily amount of sewage waste in our house is 800 liters. Maybe it will be easier for someone if we say that it is 0.8 cubic meters. We recall the rule of the first chamber, which states that its volume must be at least three daily norms of waste from a private house. In our case, the daily norm was 800 liters. Let's multiply it by three. It follows that the volume of the first chamber must be at least 2400 liters or 2.4 cubic meters.

We also refer to building codes and regulations. According to the standards, the septic tank must be placed at a distance of five meters from the foundation of a residential building. In practice, if you have organized everything correctly, completed the necessary waterproofing, the ventilation in the septic tank is excellent, and the drains are located outside the foundation, then the septic tank can be built close to the foundation of the house to save space on the site. Of course, with such construction, you can only use concrete construction options with sufficient wall thickness that can compensate for the pressure of the building’s foundation.

Also, you should not build a septic tank on a site very far from the house. This will greatly complicate the position of the sewer pipes, which need to be made at an angle, which will lead to the deepening of the structure itself and its further drainage.

Also, the main factor when choosing the placement of a septic tank will be the wall of the nearest water.

The distance between them should not be less than fifty meters. But the slope of the sewer system should be calculated based on the volume of the pipe itself. The main rule applies here: the smaller the diameter of the pipe, the larger the slope should be.

Don't forget about temperature conditions the septic tank itself. It should not freeze, so the placement depth should be below the freezing layer of the soil. For the best effect, it is worth insulating the septic tank construction insulation materials, of which there are many on the market now.

A rare country village or partnership, even near Moscow, can boast of having main water supply and sewerage systems, but mostly owners of suburban real estate have to acquire their own amenities. And so as not to poison with waste from your own life activity environment, including the aquifer, wastewater treatment systems have long outgrown the simplest cesspools, turning into more advanced structures.

There are a lot of different treatment plants and stations on sale for treating wastewater from mechanical impurities, but despite all their effectiveness, their significant drawback is their considerable cost. Therefore, for many private owners the best option become homemade devices, enjoying deserved popularity among FORUMHOUSE craftsmen. Let's consider what a septic tank is, existing sanitary standards, parameters for choosing systems and the most popular varieties.

Septic tank operation diagram
How to choose a septic tank
Construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings
Features of monolithic reinforced concrete septic tanks
Plastic septic tanks from Eurocubes

Septic tank operation diagram

A septic tank is one of the elements of a complex autonomous (individual) domestic wastewater treatment system designed for collecting, settling and purifying wastewater. Accumulation and settling occurs in a sealed container (when there are several chambers) or containers; from the settling tanks, the effluent flows into a filtration well or onto fields soil filtration(underground, aboveground). The legislation prohibits the discharge of even settled and treated wastewater from a septic tank into open areas land. The system necessarily includes inspection/cleaning wells and ventilation risers, fan boner brought to the roof level to prevent the possibility of characteristic odors. Septic tanks are periodically cleared of sediment by a sewage disposal machine; if the volume of the septic tank is correctly selected, this procedure, even if you live permanently in the house, is required no more than once a year, or even several years.

Sanitary and building codes and standards governing the location, design and construction of septic tanks

Until recently, the main regulatory documents concerning septic tanks and stations biological protection, there were SNiPs and SanPiNs developed at the end of the last century and the beginning of this one:

SNiP No. 2.04.03-85 (recommendatory), SP 32.13330.2012 (current standard) - parameters for organizing external sewer networks and structures.
SNiP 2.04.04-84 and SNiP 2.04.01-85 - parameters for organizing internal and external water supply (outside the city, water supply is most often from a well and a well, and some provisions intersect with the rules for organizing septic tanks).
SanPiN 2.1.5.980-00 – protection of surface waters.
SanPiN 2.2.1/2.1.1.1200-03 – septic tanks are classified as environmentally hazardous objects; this set of rules regulates the creation of protective zones around them.

Adopted last year new standard organization of autonomous sewerage with septic tanks and soil (underground) filtration of wastewater - STO NOSTROY 2.17.176-2015. Now this is the main document that contains the design and installation rules, as well as the requirements for the results of the work.

For location treatment facilities The following rules apply to other objects on the site:

There is 5 meters between the septic tank and the house.
Between the septic tank and the water intake (well, borehole) - at least 20 meters, if there is no connection between the aquifer layer and the filter field through soil with high filtering capacity, from 50 to 80 meters if the segment has loamy, sandy or sandy loam soils.
Between the septic tank and the side of the road - 5 meters.
Between the septic tank and the border of the site - 4 meters.
Between the septic tank and trees - 3 meters (1 meter to bushes).
Between the septic tank and the reservoir with running water(stream, river) – 10 meters.
Between the septic tank and a body of standing water (lake, pond) - 30 meters.
There is 5 meters between the septic tank and the underground gas main.

Basic performance characteristic The septic tank, on which its performance, the efficiency of wastewater treatment and the frequency of pumping will depend, is the volume. It is calculated based on the number of household members, daily consumption rates and the capacity of the structure. By sanitary standards one person consumes 200 liters (0.2 mᶟ) per day. Throughput is the capacity of sedimentation tanks with a three-day reserve, plus a small increase for bottom sediments. To operate normally, a septic tank for a family of four requires a volume of 2.7 mᶟ (0.2x4x3+0.3=2.7). The volume of all chambers is calculated, but from the bottom to the level of the overflow pipes. To be on the safe side, you should add on the salvo drop or the arrival of relatives and make the volume a little more than the calculated one, as the super-moderator of our portal’s forum advises.

Vadim (spb) FORUMHOUSE super moderator

Three cubes are enough for four people.

Options for choosing a septic tank

If the location of individual treatment facilities is regulated by standards, and the volume is selected depending on the amount of wastewater, then what type of septic tank will be, the design of the system and the method of organizing soil filtration depends, first of all, on the groundwater level (GWL) and the throughput (filtering) capacity of the soil. At low groundwater levels, almost any composite or monolithic structure is allowed. But if the soil is weak throughput(clayey soils), then it is necessary to increase the area of the filtration field, the length of the filtration tunnel or the layer of drainage cushion under the filtration well.

If the groundwater level is high, then it is permissible to use only monolithic septic tanks (reinforced concrete, plastic containers) with several chambers and an additional sealed storage. From the storage tank, through a float drainage pump, the settled wastewater will flow to embankment field filtration (cassette and tunnel infiltrators are used). Underground filtration directly from the septic tank in a situation with close occurrence of perched water is unacceptable.

Ladomir Moderator FORUMHOUSE

It is necessary that the distance from the bottom of the filter structure to groundwater is at least a meter.

Popular types of homemade septic tanks

Among the participants of our portal, three types of homemade products are most in demand:

From concrete rings;
Monolithic reinforced concrete;
Plastic (from Eurocubes).

Construction of a septic tank made of concrete rings

When the State Water Inspectorate allows, most members of the forum give preference to concrete rings, from which two sealed chambers and a filtration well are usually assembled, connected to each other by overflow pipes. To get the most impermeable structure, choose rings with a groove connection; they are not only more resistant to possible ground movements, but it is also easier to achieve the tightness of such a seam. External and internal waterproofing is used with bitumen primers or solutions based on CPS with the addition of liquid glass. There are two options for the arrangement of cameras - sequential and combined.

In the first, settling tanks are placed one after another, and the FCs are placed at a short distance, each with its own neck and inspection cap. Optimal scheme a septic tank device of this type was developed by one of the participants with the nickname MatrasMSA with the help of a moderator Ladomira.

MatrasMSA User FORUMHOUSE

The plot is 40x60 meters with a slope, a bathhouse/guest house is currently being built, three people live on weekend visits and sometimes guests, in the future there will be a house for permanent residence. The groundwater level is low, it is problematic to get to the water, the well is 88 meters deep, according to neighbors, the soil is loam. I am planning a septic tank like this: the first and second wells are three rings each (1.5 m in diameter) with a concrete bottom, the third well is the same, but the bottom is on the ground.

During the discussion, the following typical recommendations for the device were given.

Ladomir

A straight tee is placed on the pipe entering the septic tank, the lower part is buried 15-30 cm into the drains, similarly on the outlet pipe.
The outlet from the septic tank is 5-10 cm lower than the entrance to it, measured along the lower pipe tray.
The overflow between the chambers is done at a depth of 0.4 m from the height of the drain column in the septic tank.
The height of the drains into the septic tank is the distance from the bottom to the bottom tray of the pipe coming out of the septic tank.
The branch pipe entering the filter well does not need to be equipped with a tee; it is routed in such a way that the wastewater flows into the center of the FC.
Under the filter well, gravel/crushed stone is added, 0.3-0.5 m thick, and sprinkled on the sides, in a layer of up to 0.2 m.

The combined septic tank (designed by A. Egoryshev) is compact due to the arrangement of sedimentation tanks and FC in a triangle and is suitable for small areas. All wells are closed with blind covers, in which inspection holes are cut out, a common neck (service well) is installed on top, and the fan riser is discharged through the cover of the service well. To prevent differences between settling tanks, the bottom of the pit is filled with concrete slab with a hole for the FC, a drainage pad (filter cassette) made of ASG, 10 cm thick, is poured under the slab onto a double layer of geotextile.

On our portal this scheme was proposed by a craftsman with the nickname s_e_s_h, having laid out the design and a similar construction process back in 2009, “alive” to this day, which proves the relevance of the systems similar principle actions.

s_e_s_h User FORUMHOUSE

The requirements for the septic tank, taking into account the standards and needs of the family, were as follows:

Good treatment of domestic wastewater at the outlet of the septic tank.
A volume sufficient for permanent residence in a house of 3-4 people (bath, shower, 3 sinks, washing and dishwasher, 2 toilets).
Winter operation.
Robust design with the possibility of easy maintenance of the septic tank itself and underwater communications.
Neat and discreet final appearance.
Minimum possible cash costs.

The result was an economical design without sacrificing functionality.

However, both options are suitable only for areas with a low groundwater level; with a high groundwater level, no matter how you isolate the wells, there is a danger of them being flooded with high water and polluting the area with wastewater.

Work of a reinforced concrete septic tank

Monolithic reinforced concrete septic tanks can be used at any level, only the location of the filtration structures will differ. It is difficult to resolve difficulties when digging a pit, but it is possible.

researcher User FORUMHOUSE

To make the pit faster, it is dug with a tractor, on one side it is dug with a bucket that is wider and half a meter deeper than the bottom of the main pit for the septic tank (it seems like a pit), a regular one is installed there drainage pump. All the water from the main pit quietly migrates into the pit and is pumped out from there by a pump and poured out 25-30 meters away. For the duration of work in the pit, pouring and treating hardened concrete with water repellents, this solution is just enough.

Otherwise, the process is standard - formwork, reinforcement cage, pouring with the addition of modifiers to the solution, waterproofing (internal and external). Monolithic structure at low GWL selected by a portal participant Rybnik.

Rybnik User FORUMHOUSE

From the foundation to the rotary well (PW) - 1.4 m, the PW itself has dimensions of 1x1 m, from the PW to the septic tank there is a trench, 7.5 m long, 40 cm wide and 1 m deep. The pipe will enter the septic tank at a depth of 85 cm from surface (taking into account a slope of 2 cm per 1 meter). A second pipe (from the house) will also enter the septic tank. Next, a pipe of clarified water comes out of the septic tank, which will run 23 m along the fence and enter a filter well measuring 1.5x1.5x4 m.

For the reinforcement frame, rods with a diameter of 8 mm were used, restraints (frogs) were bent from them, cement M500 (intended, among other things, for concreting underwater structures in a fresh environment), a special additive that reduces the permeability of concrete, was used for pouring. Sheets used as formwork flat slate. Details of the process and a step-by-step photo report are in the topic

Installing a septic tank is a necessity for residents living in private houses that do not have a connection to central sewer. Until recently, in almost all private houses, the role of the toilet was replaced by cesspools. But their presence has its drawbacks:

There is a possibility of sewage penetrating into the soil (and even groundwater), which significantly reduces the ecology of the site;
An unpleasant odor from such a toilet can spread throughout the entire area;
Frequent pumping and cleaning of the cesspool, which upsets the balance of the soil.

Installation of a septic tank in a private house

The topic of this article is installation of a septic tank in a private house with your own hands. From it you will learn how to make a septic tank yourself and what you will need for this.

Septic tank design - cleaning system

Currently, there are several models of septic tanks that you can build with your own hands. Since a septic tank is a hermetic structure (this is its main difference from a cesspool), the possibility of soil contamination is minimal. Before you begin installing a septic tank, it is necessary to most accurately determine its location, taking into account the height of the groundwater and the direction of its movement. In addition, the volume of wastewater that will be processed should be calculated.

According to their cleaning principle, septic tanks for a private home are divided into:

Cumulative. These are ordinary sealed containers dug deep into the ground and connected to drain pipes walking from home. Such septic tanks can be made of plastic (they can be purchased at the store), or a reinforced concrete ring is installed in the pit. You can also concrete the walls cement mortar. But from such septic tanks it is necessary to periodically pump out the contents with a sewer truck. This may cause some inconvenience.
Septic tank - settle down j. It consists of two or three chambers (which is much preferable), interconnected, and which have special drainage. The material for the septic tank can be reinforced concrete rings, or the walls can be made of brick. Since in this case several chambers are used, wastewater purification occurs in several stages.

The wastewater enters the first chamber through a pipe coming from the house. In it, substances that are heavier than water sink to the bottom, and lighter ones remain on the surface. The water settles and moves to the second chamber. Here the water settles again and gets rid of smaller impurities that did not settle in the first chamber. And after this, the wastewater flows into the third chamber, where the cleaning process ends. As a result, the output is water, which can be safely discharged into the ground. Each compartment on the surface has a hatch, which allows for cleaning and flushing of the septic tank. Such a septic tank in a private house is, in a way, a local treatment facility.

When installing a septic tank, certain norms and rules must be observed:

There must be a distance of at least 3 meters from the house from which wastewater is discharged to the septic tank;
From the septic tank to the fence separating neighboring areas, the distance is at least 3 meters;
It is necessary to take into account differences in height;
It is advisable to install the septic tank on a flat, open area;
It is necessary to calculate the volume for the septic tank, taking into account that the maximum volume of waste water falls on the first tank. The containers should hold three days' worth of wastewater. It is recommended to provide the necessary reserve volume of the septic tank in case of a possible increase in the size of the sewer.
For the normal functioning of the septic tank, it is necessary to periodically check and clean the containers;

Proper planning and design of the septic tank design will ensure the smooth functioning of the drainage system in a private home. We hope that you will be able to install a septic tank in a private home.

Septic tank for a private house

How to make a toilet in the country without smell and pumping...