Dimensions of the gable roof gable. Pediment of a gable roof: how to calculate the area and hem it. What to consider when choosing

To build a roof yourself, you need to have special skills. In addition, this process requires attention and precision.

To create a reliable and durable roof a correctly drawn up project is required, which describes the parameters of the structure being built. An important part of the roof is the gable, the construction process of which should be approached carefully. In addition, it is important to know how to calculate the area of ​​the pediment gable roof.

Description and design features of the pediment

The pediment is part of the end wall, which is limited on the sides by the roof slopes and below by the cornice. The shape of the pediment is determined by the location of the slopes; depending on this, a triangle, trapezoid, pentagon and even an oval are formed.

The pediment can be installed in two ways:

• Before the construction of the rafter system. This option requires careful calculations of height and area, otherwise you may end up with a skewed roof structure. The advantage of this type is the construction of a pediment without interference.
• After completing the roofing work. In this situation, it is not necessary to solve the problem of how to calculate the area of ​​the pediment of a gable roof, since the space between the slopes is covered with boards or brickwork is done. This option can be used by novice craftsmen who have difficulty making calculations. In addition, finishing the gable in this way does not affect the finished roof in any way.

It is important to calculate the height and area of ​​the pediment at the design stage in order to know what material to use for the cladding and what load is expected from this on the foundation. The task of how to calculate the gable of a roof can be done using simple geometric formulas from the school course, but online calculators can help you make more accurate calculations.

Calculation of the height of the pediment

Determining the height of the gable is a fairly important stage in roof design. This parameter determines the appearance of the roof and the functionality of the building.

• Roof design features. The main determinants of the height and area of ​​the pediment are the slope and length of the slopes. Using these parameters, it is easy to make the appropriate calculations using a calculator. To do this, measure the length of the end wall, divide it in half, and multiply the resulting value by the tangent of the angle that is formed between the slope and the base of the roof.
• Functional purpose of the roof space. The height of the pediment depends on the nature of the use of the room under the roof. For an ordinary attic, a height of 140-180 cm is sufficient. For the roof attic type, in which it is planned to arrange a living space, the roof height should be from 250 to 300 cm.

In addition, the correct calculation of the pediment determines the appearance of the entire structure. A low roof makes the house squat, and if the distance from the eaves to the ridge is too large, the roof takes on an overwhelming position. The optimal option is the ratio of the height of the house from the top crown to the ground to the height of the pediment in a ratio of 1:1.

Determining the area of ​​the gable

In most cases, the gable area is calculated for more precise definition the amount of materials that will be used for lining, insulation and cladding of the pediment.

The area of ​​the pediment can be calculated independently, using knowledge of some school courses, for this it is necessary to represent the form of the structure:

• To decide how to calculate the quadrature of a triangular roof gable, it is necessary to divide the product of the height of the gable and the length of the roof base in half. For example, you can take a pediment with a height of 3 meters and a length of the end wall of 6 meters. In this case, the area of ​​the pediment will be equal to (6 * 3): 2 = 9 m 2.
• The area of ​​the trapezoidal pediment is calculated as follows: half the sum of the lengths of the bases is multiplied by the height. For example, the height of the roof is 3 meters, the lower base of the roof is 6 meters long, and the length of the hip is 4 meters. The area of ​​the pediment will be next value: (4+6):2*3-15 m2.
• Solving the problem of how to calculate the area of ​​a roof gable, which is made in the shape of a pentagon, needs to be solved in a more complex way. To do this, it is necessary to divide the pediment into two simpler figures, a triangle and a trapezoid. Then the area of ​​individual figures is calculated, and the results obtained are summed up.

For the roof non-standard shape with several gables, calculate the areas of the individual parts. In this case, performing calculations without a special program will be much more difficult and longer.

Calculation of the amount of material for a gable roof

As mentioned above, the area and height of the pediment is determined for the purchase of facing materials. Based on the known parameters of this part of the building, it is quite possible to find out how much brick or siding will be required for cladding. The exact finishing area is equal to the difference between the total area of ​​the pediment and the area of ​​the window openings.

Brick calculation

When calculating the number of bricks required for lining the pediment, it is necessary to take into account the type of masonry, the area of ​​one brick and the thickness of the seam. A simple calculation is based on a standard brick size of 250 * 120 * 65 mm and a joint thickness of 5 mm. Masonry of 1 m2 area is made of 57 bricks. Therefore, the area of ​​the pediment must be multiplied by 57. For example, the pediment has an area of ​​15 square meters, for its cladding you will need: 15*57=855 bricks.

A more complex calculation involves calculating the area depending on the type of masonry, taking into account the thickness of the mortar.

How to calculate boards for cladding

Calculating the amount of lumber required can be very simple. Why calculate the area of ​​one board, and then divide the area of ​​the pediment by the resulting value. The result must be rounded up.

Calculation of siding and fittings square footage

Calculations of the required amount of siding and additional elements must be carried out carefully, so it is recommended to use the services of specialists or special program. In this case, you can obtain a more accurate number of panels, profiles and fastening strips that will be required to cover a certain area of ​​the gable.

It is very important to purchase Decoration Materials with a small margin. To do this, add 15-25% to any obtained values.

Calculation of siding for a house and necessary elements

Purchasing, transporting and unloading building materials takes time, and when you have to additionally purchase the missing materials, it can delay construction. Therefore, the mathematical approach to determining required quantity siding and hardware is correct.

Calculation using the area of ​​walls intended for cladding

To perform the calculation of siding wall panels, it is recommended to make a drawing diagram of the walls and gables with the designation of door and window openings and the base. Note exact dimensions all elements are required.

Before ordering siding, you need to count the number of such elements: siding, internal and external corners, starting and finishing panels, window elements, connecting profiles.

Do-it-yourself panels for covering a house with siding (actually, siding), their number is calculated in square meters, and later this value is converted into the number of pieces of facing elements. To accurately calculate, you need to find out the area of ​​​​all walls and gables that will be lined, using the formula; the area of ​​openings for doors and windows is subtracted from the total area.

The formula looks like this: pl.

total = pl. walls - pl. doors and windows.

Waste is inevitable during work and is also taken into account when calculating. With proper installation, the amount of waste does not exceed 5-7%. To the resulting total area add 7% for possible waste.

To calculate how many panels are required, the resulting area is divided by the usable area (excluding overlap) of one panel. A standard panel has an area of ​​0.85 m2, this characteristic is always marked on the packaging.

Number of pieces of siding = total area of ​​walls/area of ​​one panel.

Calculation of the number of additional elements when covering a house with siding

Calculation of the starting profile

The starting strip is the element that is attached to the wall first along the entire perimeter of the house. Securely fixed, it serves as a fastening element for the bottom row, panels above the windows and door.

Its length is first calculated in linear meters.

By measuring the lower perimeter of the house, adding to it the length of the surfaces above the windows and doors, the resulting number is divided by the known length of one panel. Get the number of pieces of starting profiles.

External and internal corners

An outer (external) corner is a part that covers the end edges of the siding panels at the corners of the house and allows the cladding of walls located in two mutually perpendicular planes to match.

The length of a standard corner outer strip is about three meters.

The number of planks is calculated after measuring all outer corners.

Internal corner - used when installing siding for vertical fastening of panels on internal corners and providing a high quality appearance.

Internal corners are calculated in a similar way: you need the total number of all internal corners, taking into account a standard three-meter profile.

If the building is taller (more than three meters), and one plank for each corner is not enough, the elements can be joined along the length.

Connection strips

When the length of the wall exceeds the length of one siding panel, a T-profile or H-profile is used for joining.

Its standard length is 3 meters.

A piece count of these elements will be the most accurate.

The need for connecting elements for each wall is taken into account.

Finish bar

This finishing piece is installed below the windows and at the top of each wall. When using near-window profiles - along their perimeter.

Window profile

Finishing windows with siding, if they and doors are not in the plane of the wall siding, but are recessed into the wall, is carried out with a special profile.

It is better not to join parts of the window profile in the form of short pieces, but, taking into account the standard three-meter length, calculate exactly how many pieces are needed.

J-profile

J-profile is a universal profile used for edging door and window openings.

Sometimes a J-profile is used instead of a start and finish bar.

This element is necessary in places where the profile is cut diagonally.

The length of the diagonal is measured, taking into account the standard three-meter length, the required quantity is calculated.

Platbands

These elements are used to decorate the window when it is in the same plane as the siding.

The use of scraps is unacceptable here too; the exact length is calculated and trims are assembled.

Soffits are panels with a polymer coating that are attached to the frame along the edge of the roof.

When joining them, the locking method is used. This connection principle greatly facilitates the installation of soffits on the roof eaves. Moreover, it is possible to hide the fastenings.

The quantity is calculated in square meters: the length of the surface is multiplied by the width.

One of their main functions is to provide ventilation of the under-roof space, which significantly increases the service life of the roof.

Wind board

The element is calculated in linear meters along the perimeter of the gable slopes.

Calculator for calculating siding for a house online

Websites of companies involved in the sale or installation of siding offer accurate calculations of materials using calculator programs. Here is one of them: http://allcalc.ru/node/85

How to use such programs? The user needs to measure the surfaces themselves own home and enter each indicator in the appropriate field in the calculator window. Next, the program itself will calculate and display the result: the number of panels and additional elements.

How to calculate the amount of siding for cladding a house, as well as components and additional elements

The result can be printed immediately.

The calculator calculates only those materials that the company works with, their parameters are specified in the program.

Price

Having calculated the siding for a house using the program, you can begin to calculate their cost. To do this, use prices from online stores or local companies.

Example

Example for a house with 9 external walls with a total area of ​​253 m2. Doors with windows have an area of ​​25 m2. The area of ​​one panel is 0.84 m2.

253 - 25: 0.84 = 271.4, round to 272

272 - number of siding pieces.

• Instead of connecting H-profiles, you can use an overlap connection. Then the calculated amount of wall siding increases by the width of the joint
• It is cheaper to transport long panels once, so accurate calculations save time and money

When planning your own installation, you can calculate everything yourself or use online calculator. And when concluding an agreement with an installation company, it is better to rely on the experience of its specialists. Then any delay in work will affect its payment.

Choose only high-quality processing products.

You will need:

• wood primer;
• antiseptics (there are opaque and translucent);
• antipyrine (fire-resistant coating); Antipyrine - fire-resistant protection
• acrylic or oil paints;
• bio-oil;
• wax for wood processing;
• alkyd varnish.

Ideally, surface treatment of the facing material should be done before installation.

Perform the work in the following sequence:

1. Clean the surface of the wood from dirt, dust and fungus using a steel or hair brush and then fine-grained sandpaper.
2. Treat the planks with an antiseptic and primer. These products can be found 2 in 1.
3. Paint or varnish the surface. But before starting this stage of work, wait until the previous layer dries well.

You can easily decorate the walls of your house both outside and inside using lining. There are practically no difficulties. The main thing is not to be afraid and boldly follow the instructions.

Fastening with finishing nails

Finishing studs– these are special nails of small thickness. They easily enter the material without causing cracking. Their distinctive feature– a reduced cap that is easily recessed into the thickness of the part. Unlike construction nails, finishing nails cannot withstand increased loads and are used only for secret fastening of finishing materials in structures that will not be subject to shrinkage, tearing and bending. This installation method is not suitable for installing temporary coverings, since it is almost impossible to remove a thin nail from the panel.

Finishing studs are available with various types coatings and are selected depending on the location and type of finish:

• black– steel fasteners without an additional anti-corrosion layer for work in absolutely dry rooms;
• galvanized– inexpensive and most popular variety, the zinc layer provides reliable protection, the products are suitable for use in all types of structures that do not have direct contact with water;
• with copper, brass, chrome or bronze plating– more expensive types of fasteners that can be used in rooms with high humidity and in open spaces, with increased requirements for aesthetic finishing, when working with expensive types of wooden lining.

Any novice craftsman who knows how to use a hammer can handle the job. Also during the installation process, a hammer is used - the device allows you to drown the head of the nail without damaging the material.

Using a Finishing Nail Puncher

When the panels are positioned vertically (the sheathing must be horizontal), installation is carried out in the following sequence:

• Place the first part with a tenon in the corner (for reliability, it is better to fix the first and last parts through with self-tapping screws, cover the caps with decorative caps to match the panel).
• Attach finishing nails to the sheathing beams through the groove at an angle of 45 degrees using a hammer with gentle blows.
• Insert the second panel with a tenon into the groove of the first, lightly tap the panel with a hammer through a piece of clapboard or block. Check the evenness of the masonry with a level.
• Attach through the groove with nails to the sheathing, etc.

Fastening in a horizontal position is carried out using a similar technology.

Mounting methods

• 1 Mounting methods
  • 1.1 Option 1 - using finishing nails
  • 1.2 Option 2 – use of clamps
  • 1.3 Option 3 – use of self-tapping screws
• 2 Conclusion
  • 2.1 Related articles

We will look at how to properly fasten the lining to a wooden frame in different ways. Each of them has its pros and cons, so please read all the information below carefully.

Option 1 - using finishing nails

This fastener for lining is traditional and has been used for several decades; for this work we will need special nails with a reduced head. The length should be such that 2/3 of the nail fits into the bar; most often, products with a length of 30 to 40 mm are used. The price of 100 grams is 40-50 rubles, so this is also the cheapest method of fastening.

Finishing nails - the most budget-friendly solution

Let's figure out how the lining is attached in this case:

• The first installation option is fastening into a groove, that is, into a recess on one of the sides; in this case, the nail is driven in at an angle of 45 degrees and covered with the next element. Below is a diagram of this technology;

This is what the groove mount looks like

• You can also fix elements through a tenon; below we show how to properly fasten the lining with nails in this case. Here the nail is also covered by the next element, ensuring the perfect appearance of the finish;

This method is even simpler, but it is suitable for materials with a wide tenon

• Having chosen the option that you will use, you can get to work. Before attaching the lining to the wall, it is necessary to cut the elements to the required length so that there are gaps of several mm to compensate for deformations of the material due to temperature changes;
• The first element in the corner on one side is fixed through the top; anyway, the corner is covered with a plinth or other decorative element. On the other side, a nail is driven into the tenon or groove; this is done very carefully so as not to split the material or damage it. This way you can finish walls and ceilings quickly and reliably.

Remember that when fastening into a groove, the nails are located at an angle

Advice! Nails thicker than 1.4 mm should not be used, as they are much more likely to split the material.

Option 2 – use of clamps

It is impossible to discuss the question of how to fasten a wooden paneling without mentioning the clamps, which are special staples that are placed on the tenon of the elements and secured with nails. For lining, option No. 4 is used, and for block house and imitation timber - No. 5. The products are sold in packs of 100 pieces and cost about 50 rubles per pack; carnations are included.

The photo clearly shows how fastening is done using clamps

Instructions for doing the work yourself include the following steps:

• First, the number of fasteners is calculated, they are located on each edge of the frame, you need to multiply the number of structure edges by the number of lining panels;
• The location of the clamps when the elements are arranged vertically does not matter, but if the finishing is located horizontally, then they should be at the bottom;

It is important to position the fasteners correctly

• The working process is very simple: the lining is put in place, fits well with the previous element, after which clamps are placed and secured with small nails. To make it easier to hammer them in, use a spacer.

Advice! If you want to ensure higher fastening strength, then instead of nails you can use self-tapping screws for fastening clamps; the 3x20 mm option is best suited.

Clamps can also be screwed on with self-tapping screws

Option 3 - use self-tapping screws

If you are thinking about how to fix the lining to the wall as securely as possible, then self-tapping screws are best. Their use is associated with some difficulties, but the fixation strength will be maximum, and if necessary, the finish can be disassembled without damaging it, which is also important.

For work, fasteners of small thickness are selected

The workflow in this case looks like this:

• In the groove connection of the lining, holes are drilled at an angle of 45 degrees with a 3 mm thick drill;
• The element is attached to the sheathing, tightly joined, after which a self-tapping screw is screwed into it. The work should be done very carefully: the cap should sink into the material so as not to interfere with the joining, but at the same time you should not press too hard so that the wood does not crack.

In this case, accuracy is important

The question is often asked about what to attach PVC lining to; in this case, all of the above options are suitable. Alternatively, you can use a simpler option - construction stapler, it is perfect for plastic.

Before attaching PVC lining, stock up on a stapler and staples

Preparation for covering the walls of the house

The first stage of cladding a log or brick house is the preparation of walls and material:

1. If wooden lining is chosen, first of all, it is necessary to impregnate it with special antiseptics and antipyrine. If desired, paint it any color.
2. You need to give the material time to dry. Let it lie for a day in an empty room.
3. Next, it requires installing the sheathing on the wall. The slats should be 50x50 mm in size. The distance between them should be 2 cm less width thermal insulation material. Fix them every 50 cm with self-tapping screws. The different backing bars of the frame are not attached end-to-end, but at a distance of several centimeters, so that air circulates from bottom to top
4. It is necessary to check the location of the sheathing slats with a level.
5. Next you need to lay waterproofing material, fixing it with a construction stapler. Lay thermal insulation (ideally mineral wool), and then lay a vapor barrier material, which is also like a stapler.
6. Now you need to make another sheathing, perpendicular to the first one, on which the lining will be mounted.

Stock up on everything in advance necessary tools and materials. You will definitely need a hammer, a building level, a hammer drill, a screwdriver, a tape measure and a jigsaw.

Method 5

Such fastening is difficult to disguise without a pin.

The latest version of the sheathing is much inferior to all the previous ones, implying the fastening of the lining to the sheathing with nails.

However, this method is also allowed, especially if after cladding the wall is refined using other materials.

There are several disadvantages:

1. The nails are not easy to hide, because in order for them to securely hold the bar, you will need at least 6 of them for each.
2. There is a high risk of the board splitting and other marks.
3. Such cladding is very difficult to dismantle.

The work begins with the nail being very carefully inserted into the groove of the plank, inserted into it, and then nailed to the fastening strip of the sheathing. The caps are hammered inside the board with a hammer so that they do not interfere with the installation of the next one.

Processing of lining

Protective means can not only perform their main functions, but also play a decorative role.

For processing, the lining is first cleaned, sand roughness with fine sandpaper. After this, several more events take place:

• Primer;
• Antiseptic impregnation;
• Coating with glaze, varnish or paint.

Caring for lining

• If the lining was secured using the second method (with tenon screws), every three months it will have to be treated with special protective compounds, because the board and pins will dry out. As a result, the attachment points will become very visible.
• Every year it should be coated with protective agents based on oil or wax, or varnish, unless it is the lining of a bathhouse.
• You should not use abrasive substances for cleaning so as not to damage the surface of the material.
• Dust is wiped off with a soft, slightly damp (but not wet!) cloth.
• Stains, if they appear, can be carefully removed with a solvent. In this case, it must be applied very carefully, first to the edge of the contamination to determine the reaction with the surface.

Instead of output

At the right approach Installing the lining will not take much time. Upon completion of the work, decorate the joints with cornices, slats or plinths. Corner baguette looks beautiful on external and internal corners.

And don’t rush to avoid mistakes and inaccuracies, which will later affect the quality of the finish and its durability.

Ways to fasten the lining

Scheme of types of lining fastening.

to the wall in several ways. To perform this procedure, nails, decorative screws, staples from a stapler and specially designed fastening clamps are used.

The simplest fastening method is to use nails. They are driven at an angle of about 45° into the edge of the groove. The caps are closed with the tenon of the next lining. To finish off nails, you need a special hammer that protects the front side of the material from careless blows with a hammer and from splitting the wood.

The clamps are invisible from the outside and do not cause any harm to the finishing material. These grips are made of galvanized sheet metal. Their sizes and shapes may differ from each other. The clamps are selected according to the thickness of the specific size of the lining and its grooves. They are inserted into the groove of the facing board and attached to the sheathing element with self-tapping screws, screws or small nails. The kleimer is completely covered by the next panel.

When installing thin lining, small fasteners should be used.

If the thickness of the finishing strips is too small, use small fastening screws. It is recommended to pre-drill the holes for them with a slightly smaller diameter drill. This will prevent the panel from cracking.

Sometimes staples are used to fasten the lining, which are hammered in using a stapler. This method is mainly used for fastening plastic lining. In this case, you need to ensure that the bracket firmly attaches the material to the sheathing, but does not split its edge.

The last method is fastening using screws with a decorative head. The method requires special care, since the screws are screwed through the pre-drilled face. Hats remain visible, so it can be very difficult, sometimes completely impossible, to hide a possible defect in work.

Choosing lining in the store

Unlike wallpaper or, say, plastic panels, materials in which the presence of defects is unlikely, the lining must be carefully selected. Moreover, the manufacturer’s brand in this case does not play any role - even from the same company, two different batches of lining can differ significantly from each other.

The quality of the lining is divided into four main grades: A, B, C and Extra. The Extra variety is of the highest quality, so if finances allow, it is better to purchase it and almost guarantee to save yourself from unpleasant surprises in the form of defects.

It’s better to buy lining not in packaging - you can inspect each board and weed out defects before purchasing

Grade A is also quite High Quality, but with grades B and C it is better, as they say, to “keep your eyes open.” It is better to purchase lining not in packaging - this way you can inspect each board and weed out defects before purchasing. But such lining is sold extremely rarely; more often the boards are packed in 10 pieces in transparent film. In this case, unfortunately, it will not be possible to inspect every board.

More often, boards are packaged in packs of 10 in transparent film.

Although, to tell the truth, completely unusable boards are extremely rare. Even if there are one or two knots, the board can be used to make short sections for covering the slopes of a window or, say, a door jamb.

But it makes sense to inspect the ends of the lining, visible through the film, quite carefully. If you notice chips or knots on them, it is better to put such packages aside.

Installation with clamps, nails and staples

Installation of the lining takes place on the sheathing. To do this, you need to buy slats or cut them yourself from inch boards of the required length.

The finished sections should fit snugly against the wall with a fixation step of 50 cm. Initially, the frame of the structure is leveled using a level or plumb line.

The space between the sheathing slats will provide air circulation and long and high-quality operation. Insulation is laid out over the entire area, and waterproofing is placed on it. Both layers not only retain heat, but also make the walls soundproof. In our case, the lining is attached to the sheathing, which Necessarily processed antiseptic primer.

The method of choosing a mount is up to you. In fact, there are several of them, and you will determine for yourself how it will be convenient to insert the tenon into the recess of the board.

The fastening is:

• secret
• external

performed:

• staples
• screws
• nails
• clampers

What are we going to fasten it with?

Regarding fixation, it should be noted that you should be careful in your actions, otherwise you can split the bar. When using nails, use a hammer - this will help to completely sink the head into the canvas, but try not to damage the groove.

1. In the hidden fastening method, the plank is nailed into the grooves of the board. An easy technique - the lining is nailed down with nails with miniature heads in any order. It looks a little rough and is mainly used for covering secondary premises.
2. Clamps, made of galvanized sheet metal, are sold specifically for wooden planks, complete with nails. They are different in size and shape, and are selected based on the thickness of the grooves and the type of material. Sharp teeth cut into the boards on one side, and on the other, they are nailed to the sheathing slats.
3. The staples are acceptable for use. The sharp elements easily pierce the groove and hold the bar firmly. In this option, it is advisable to have skills in working with a pistol in order to accurately “shoot” at the connection point.
4. Decorative screws are an alternative to the listed options. The result is an aesthetic surface with a simple fixation technique.

If you have decided on this point, it’s time to move directly to the process. Even before the construction of the sheathing began, it was necessary to determine the vector direction of the sheathing, and now you only need to align the guides.

If you want to lay the lining horizontally, create a visual impression wide room. When the planks move vertically, the ceiling will rise, but the space will narrow. The preference is yours.

Horizontal version

The principle of the arrangement of the planks starts from the ceiling and moves towards the floor with a similar direction of the grooves. This will prevent the entry of debris and small fragments from the outside, as well as the possibility of moisture penetration.

1. We will connect the paneling with the sheathing using clamps. The element is inserted into the recess of the previous wooden part and nailed down.
2. To support a level wall, every 10 measure the location of the planks with a level.
3. Last wooden element adjusted to the required dimensions using a hacksaw. The border between the wall and the floor is decorated with a plinth.

Note on working with block house lining, similar in appearance to rounded log.

• The groove should point upward and the side of the board, according to the idea, should hide the border of the connection. In principle, there should be no gaps left, and to avoid them, the planks are adjusted with a hammer or a piece of lath.
• The parts are connected to the sheathing with nails with small heads, which are successfully hidden under the next element.

All that remains is to tidy up the corner. To decorate it, a beam is inserted between the slats, masking the longitudinal gap, and also protecting it from drafts. The cladding is ready.

Vertical cladding

The layout of the lining with an upward direction starts from the corner. It's simple: clamps are inserted into the first facing part and nailed to the sheathing. The caps will then be hidden by the inserted corner or you can bite them off with side cutters

Further actions completely duplicate the above principle, and the smooth canvas forms a flawlessly designed wall.

On finishing stage beautiful slats, baseboards and corners are nailed down.

Mounting on clamps

Kleimers– special stamped brackets with a hook and holes designed for fastening finishing panels. Products are available in several standard sizes for various types of lining and finishing panels.

This type of installation is more labor-intensive and expensive, but has a number of advantages:

• Durability of the structure. The clamps are rigidly fixed to the sheathing, and not to the lining. The structure of the panels is not damaged, which eliminates the occurrence of cracks and other damage. The likelihood of mechanical defects is reduced and the overall service life of the skin is increased.
• The lamellas on the brackets can be easily removed without damaging the material.
• High aesthetics - the clamp connection ensures a tight fit of the panels to each other, while fasteners remain invisible. The clamps remain inside the connection

The work is performed in the following sequence:

• Place the first plank with a tenon in a corner (for vertical mounting), in the ceiling or floor (for horizontal mounting) and firmly attach it to the sheathing beams through nails or self-tapping screws.
• Place clamps on the edge with the groove and secure the panel through the holes with self-tapping screws.
• Insert the second part with a tenon into the groove of the previous one and press it tightly along its entire length, using a tamper and a hammer.
• Place clamps on the free edge with the groove and attach it to the sheathing beams. Insert the next lamella, etc.
• Every 7-10 panels, check that they are installed correctly with a level.

Useful video on choosing clamps and attaching them to self-tapping screws:

Lathing for lining

In order to secure the lining to the plane, it is necessary to prepare the sheathing. For this you can use wooden beam or metal profiles.

If you decide to use a wooden beam, do not forget to treat it with antiseptic antifungal compounds. It would be nice to also cover it with a fire-retardant compound. It is better to use bars with dimensions of 15 mm by 30 mm, 20 mm by 40 mm or 30 mm by 60 mm. This depends on the levelness of your surface. A thicker beam is needed to level areas with large problems. Thinner bars can be attached to the wall with glue or nails, thick timber better with dowels or self-tapping screws. If you decide to clapboard a balcony, and this room is more exposed to changes in temperature and humidity, then first apply a waterproof compound and attach waterproofing to the wall.

1. the slats of the sheathing (frame) can be positioned both vertically and horizontally, but strictly perpendicular to the lining boards;
2. the distance between the slats (profile) should be no more than 50 cm;
3. between the vertical posts of the frame, the floor and the ceiling, leave a small gap of 2-3 cm in size, in case the house shrinks, you will subsequently close this gap with skirting boards;
4. the outer surface of the sheathing must be in the same vertical plane, check this with a plumb line, and control the flatness using a cord stretched between the outer posts of the frame, this is necessary so that your wall will be straight in the future, without bends;
5. lay in the voids under the sheathing strips (irregularities in the walls) wooden spacers the required thickness so that the rail fits tightly;
6. if there is a window or door on the wall, it is necessary to install a sheathing block near them in order to nail the lining to them and not to the frame.

It is appropriate to lay insulation between the frame slats, leaving small gaps for ventilation, and a waterproofing film on top of it. Thanks to the insulation, the wall will retain heat better, and it will also serve as additional protection from sounds.

The lining can be attached to the frame vertically and horizontally, as well as in a herringbone pattern; this method is often used when cladding the outside of a house; it is the most economical.

Stages of cladding

Step-by-step installation of lining with your own hands consists of performing the following steps:

Carry out preparatory work. The lining is being prepared for installation. Impregnate special compounds, such as antiseptic and fire retardant. For subsequent processing, use stain or paint of the required color.

After the paint composition has dried, a lathing made of wooden slats or a beam with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. The fastening spacing of the frame elements should be 10-20 mm less than the width of the insulation slab. To fasten the slats, screws or self-tapping screws are used.

The position of the slats or bars can be vertical or horizontal. The future arrangement of the casing depends on this.

The installation position of the lining depends entirely on the desire to visually change the appearance of the room. This is the basis for the initial procedure for attaching the frame.

Vertical cladding increases the height of the room. Horizontal installation of lining with your own hands makes the room seem more spacious.

In the resulting cells, when using timber, heat-insulating slabs are installed. Upon completion of work, the entire working area is covered plastic film, fixing it on the bars with thin slats. In the future, they will be the element to which the lining itself will be attached.

The final stage is finishing with wood panels. The room takes on a finished look.

The technology for correct installation of lining on walls is divided into several steps and is strictly observed during the entire period of work.

The process goes in the following order:

• wall fastening of panels is carried out from the ceiling to the floor line.
• the lining is mounted on wooden blocks or slats. The grooves are placed down. To ensure the evenness of the panels, make a bottom adjustment using a scrap of wooden board. This method eliminates the formation of gaps between the sheathing and the floor.

1. Features of lining installation

It is recommended to mount the lining on pre-installed frame. If the walls or ceiling have a perfectly flat surface, it is possible to install the lining without constructing a frame, but the lathing still helps to extend the service life of the base surface and allows you to create an additional layer in the space between the lining and the main surface for laying heat-insulating material.

The lathing is attached in increments of 50-60 cm; it is imperative to use a level to achieve a perfectly flat surface and compensate for unevenness of the base ceiling or wall. The frame can be made of metal profile or timber. When it comes to wooden lining, it is better to choose timber. It's all about the ability of wood to absorb and release moisture, changing in volume. The lining and timber will react in a similar way, but the metal does not change in volume, and if the profile is rigidly fixed to the surface, the lining may move. Of course, this risk remains when using a wooden frame, but still to a lesser extent.

Heat-insulating material can be laid between the sheathing bars, which is important not only for residential buildings, but especially for baths and saunas.

You can install the lining in one of the following ways:

• horizontally. This is probably one of the most popular options for installing lining. Some types of material (quarter and American lining) can only be mounted in this way. If we are talking about arranging a steam room, then it is necessary to place the slats with the spike facing up. Only in this way will condensation and water roll freely down the wall. In this case, installation of the lining begins from the ceiling;
• vertically. This installation allows you to visually raise the ceiling in the room; it is often used in baths. Installation of lamellas begins from any corner, the first element is installed with the groove outward. When attaching the lining to the ceiling, it is recommended to work in the direction from the light to avoid the appearance of shadows between the boards;
• diagonally. This is a decorative installation option that is often used when decorating walls and ceilings in living rooms;
• combined and patterned styling involves the installation of lining lamellas in different directions, thanks to which you can get original drawing. Unlike all the others, this installation option requires proper skill and preparation, so it is not suitable for beginners.

The direction of the sheathing bars will be perpendicular to the direction of the lining, this goes without saying.

Preparatory stage

At this stage, the lining must be treated with protective compounds that prevent the formation of mold and the development of fungus, the appearance of bluish and black spots on the surface of the material, and they also provide the wood with resistance to insects. Impregnation with antiseptics is an important protective measure that gives the material additional protection and increases the degree of resistance of the lining to adverse factors. environment, such as high humidity, ultraviolet rays, temperature changes. Such protective substances also increase the fire resistance of the wood base by reducing its flammability.

The upholstery material must be soaked on each side and then left to dry completely. The lining is also covered with decorative paint bases to achieve the optimal color effect of the surface. If a colorless protective composition was used, then at the preparatory stage, the material can be coated with stain or varnish

Painting is done in several layers on each side; it is important to cover the entire surface of the workpiece, including grooves, ends and tenons. Applying paint to a horizontal area allows you to achieve its most uniform distribution over the surface, thus avoiding drips and giving the lining an aesthetic appearance

It is not advisable to use paint bases for processing workpieces that will be used under conditions of combination high temperatures and a high degree of humidity, for example in a bathhouse or sauna, in which harmful vapors are released into the air.

Preparing the lining

Before laying, the lining must be prepared in a certain way. First, you need to inspect the boards for the presence of knots and cracks, and if they are found, either put these boards aside, or (if there is “butt” material) eliminate the defects by cleaning or filling the problem areas. And, secondly, the lining must be allowed to “acclimatize” in the room. In other words, it must reach room temperature, because otherwise (especially if the material was stored outside) after laying the boards it may “lead”. To do this, it is enough to lay out the boards in several layers, making spacers of timber between them.

Before laying, the lining must be prepared in a certain way

Some believe that at the preparatory stage the lining must be treated with antiseptic agents, but, as practice shows, it will be enough to apply an antiseptic to the finished walls, so this preparation stage can be skipped.

Calculation of material quantity

When choosing lining, you need to understand the amount of finishing material you will need. As a rule, the cost of wooden slats is indicated in square meters (less often in cubic meters). However, a basic mathematical calculation will not work in this case, since the quadrature will be influenced by parameters such as the length of the lamellas, the height of the floors in the house, and the dimensions of door and window openings.

There are two ways to help calculate the amount of lining.

• Intuitive. Following this method, you should calculate the perimeter of the surface area that you plan to finish with lamellas. From here you need to calculate the dimensions of the openings. Add 10-30% for waste to the result. This calculation method is simple, but not the most accurate.
• Mathematical. This method of calculation is more scrupulous. To do this, you need to count the lamellas individually, taking into account their length and width, as well as the dimensions of the openings. To calculate, divide the surface length parameter by the width of the lamella. This way you can determine the required number of linings. As a result of all calculations, it will be possible to obtain a fairly accurate value. In this case, no more than 10% can be left for waste.

Types of lining

By type they are divided into domestic and eurolining. When manufacturing it, foreign and our companies adhere to different standards.

According to the standards, the lining of our manufacturers has a thickness of 1.2 to 2.5 cm, a length of up to 6 m, a width of 15 cm, a tenon length of 0.4-0.6 cm. There are various profiles:

• basic domestic “Standard”, its cross-section is similar to a trapezoid, the edges are cut at an angle;
• the “Style” profile has rounded corners;
• “Europrofile” with a thickened tenon, which increases the strength of the connection;
• American lining has a complex geometric cross-section, is treated with special compounds, and is used in cladding external walls. Its difference is that it is overlapped and only horizontally;
• The block house has a rounded convex appearance, the appearance of a joint is similar to that of the “Standard”.

Cladding boards are also divided into classes:

• “Extra”, with a higher price class, has no flaws and no core element;
• class “A”, also without a core, but minor flaws are possible and there may be one knot on a length of 1.5 m;
• class “B” has a larger number of knots and various defects, through cracks are possible;
• class “C”, it will include everything that remains after sorting the above classes; it is better not to use this material in the decoration of rooms and steam rooms.

At the same time, you need to know that most flaws on the boards can be hidden with putty.

To purchase material, calculate the required quantity. Multiply the length and width of the plane, add up the areas of all the planes to be finished. Subtract the area of ​​windows and doorways. Calculate the area of ​​one board by multiplying the length by the width. Further, for example, the length of the room is 4 m, the ceiling height is 2.5 m, we get 10 sq. m. area of ​​one wall. It is necessary to divide this area by the area of ​​one board, for example, this is 0.25 square meters. We get 40 pieces of boards needed to cover one wall. Thus, calculate the required amount for covering all the walls and the ceiling, if you plan to cover that too.

Do not forget that during work you will have waste, and when purchasing, the packaging may be defective, so purchase with some reserve.

Processing and protection

This is the final stage of lining installation which involves covering the installed material with additional layers of protective or decorative composition. At this stage (beginning of installation activities), initial antiseptic treatment can also be carried out if it was missed at the preparatory stage.

• Varnish compositions help preserve the original color and texture of wood over a long period of time.
• Thanks to stain, the required color scheme sheathing material, the number of layers of this composition can change the shade of color.
• Impregnation with wax gives the material a certain shine. After its use, the lining can be treated with paints and varnishes.
• Glaze with a UV filter is transparent, due to which the original texture of the wood is preserved and transmitted, and the wax and oil contained in its composition preserve the natural breathable properties of the material.

Second stage installation of the frame

The lining should be attached to a pre-prepared wooden frame. For this, bars with a thickness of 1 cm or more are suitable, depending on the level of unevenness of the walls or ceiling. And also, if the frame can be used as insulation, placing heat-insulating material between the boards and the wall, and the thickness of the supporting structure should exceed 5 cm.

The most important thing is that the wooden blocks are attached using construction glue or ordinary nails perfectly evenly (horizontally or vertically, depending on the layout of the slats) and in steps of 50-60cm, otherwise deformation of the boards may occur during further installation.

For a real Russian bath, vertical fastening of the boards is recommended. This allows you to visually increase the volume of space in the room, improve air circulation, since the air under the frame will rise from bottom to top, plus this type of installation is simpler.

Frame installation

*When erecting a frame, it is better to surround the windows and doors with bars in advance so that the ends of the wooden bars are mounted on them without going into the door and window openings.

Lining is easy to install and highly environmentally friendly

• 1 Lining – ease of installation and high environmental friendliness
• 2 Manufacturing of lining
• 3 Installation of lining
  • 3.1 Preparation phase
  • 3.2 Installation of sheathing
  • 3.3 Installing lining on the wall
  • 3.4 Using lining for doorways and windows
• 4 A few more words about lining
  • 4.1 Related articles

This article will talk about how to properly lay lining, showing that this process is very simple.

Judge for yourself:

• Easy installation;
• Natural wood in the material;
• Outer beauty;
• Surfaces are visually leveled;
• It is very convenient for finishing not only houses and dachas, but also...

It is noteworthy that this material behaves well when covering baths and saunas, because there, in conditions of too high temperatures and high humidity, using any other material is harmful to health.

Horizontal cladding

Horizontal cladding

First step

Proceed to attaching the lining. Start sheathing the walls from the ceiling to the floor. At the same time, try to direct the grooves downward - thanks to this, various debris will not get into them in the future, which will help to significantly increase the service life of the skin.

Horizontal cladding

Second step

Fix the clapboard sheet onto the sheathing bars. Use convenient fasteners. Insert the tenon of the next sheathing element into the groove of the fixed board. Secure it. Cover the entire planned space in this order.

Every 5-10 sheathing elements, be sure to check the evenness of the surface using a plumb line or level.

Cladding with clapboard

Third step

Having reached the last board of the lining, adjust it to the width with a regular hacksaw or other suitable tool. Nail the board and hide the gap under the decorative baseboard.

Fourth step

Clean the finishing surface from dust using a damp sponge. If you wish, you can finish painting the lining, but this is not necessary - the wood already has an attractive appearance and a beautiful shade.

If a special lining will be used for the cladding, which outwardly imitates a rounded log, start finishing with the groove facing up - this way you will hide the joints.

Horizontal cladding

Additionally, the panels can be adjusted using a hammer, placing a piece of board under it - this way the finish will be fixed without gaps.

To fasten the “rounded” lining, use self-tapping screws. Twist the fasteners at 45 degrees. Place treated timber between the panels of such sheathing. This will create beautiful finish no gaps.

Installing the first ceiling strip

Options for the location of the lining on the plane of the wall and ceiling

The lining on the plane of the wall (ceiling) can be positioned vertically or horizontally. Traditionally, Euro profile lining is located vertically, and Calm profile lining is horizontal. This is primarily due to the peculiarities of perception of horizontal and vertical lines. Vertical lines, especially emphasized by a wide strip of shadow from window light, due to the difference in the surface of the lining profile on the wall, visually increase the space between the floor and ceiling. The horizontal thin lines of the joint of the “calm” profile linings have no shadow and therefore create the effect of integrity. Traditionally, ceiling lining with clapboard is carried out in the direction luminous flux– perpendicular to the window.

Advantages and disadvantages

Lining is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials. Consumers choose this finish because it not only has a harmonious and natural appearance, but also a number of other positive qualities.

• The main advantage of lining is its environmental friendliness. Currently, not every finishing material can boast of such quality. The lining does not emit hazardous and harmful substances, even if located in high temperature conditions.
• The lining can be given a perfectly smooth and pleasant to the touch surface.

• To install such wood panels It is not at all necessary to involve professional finishing teams. Fastening such materials can be done on your own, following simple instructions.
• Many consumers note the pleasant woody aroma inherent in such finishing materials. Thanks to this property, an indescribable atmosphere is created in the room.
• High-quality lining boasts resistance to mechanical damage and strong impacts. It is not easy to break or damage.
• Lining is not a easily soiled material, but if dirt appears on its surface, you won’t have to put in a lot of effort to remove it.

• It is worth noting the excellent thermal insulation properties of the lining. A room in which such finishing is present will always maintain a comfortable microclimate.
• The lining also has soundproofing properties. Thanks to such materials, the audibility of extraneous annoying noises in the room is significantly reduced.
• Under the lining you can hide unpresentable elements such as wires and various communications.

• This finish can be used not only in suburban or village house, but also in an ordinary city apartment.
• Lining can be used to decorate not only walls, but also ceilings. Floors designed in this way look very aesthetically pleasing and neat.

Of course, lining also has its disadvantages. You should also familiarize yourself with them if you want to use this material in the design of your home.

• To install the lining, a frame is often required. Most often, such mounting structures have to be used when it comes to finishing ceiling. Also, you cannot do without a frame if the walls in the room are too uneven and have noticeable differences.

• The disadvantages of lining include the fact that it is not fireproof. Of course, this quality can be corrected if the material is treated with special means, but even they will not make such raw materials 100% non-flammable.
• Over the years, lining can change its geometric parameters. Most often, such deformations occur if the owners did not properly care for the finish or installed it incorrectly.
• Lining cannot be called a cheap material. Moreover, many consumers consider it quite expensive.
• It was mentioned above that the lining must be periodically maintained by treating it with special protective compounds. Most consumers consider this feature to be a disadvantage.

Peculiarities

Premises decorated with wooden materials look incredibly cozy and welcoming. That is why many buyers opt for such design options.

For such an attractive design, you can use a variety of coatings., from special wood panels to wood-look laminate. However, different types of lining are recognized as one of the most popular and in demand. This material is not uncommon - it is easy to find in specialized stores.

High-quality wooden lining has an impressive service life. According to manufacturers, such products can serve without problems for 15-20 years, without losing their original appearance.

The durability of the lining largely depends on proper care by the owners of the home. Such coatings should be treated from time to time with special antiseptic compounds. They are needed to protect natural material from the appearance of fungus or mold. It's no secret that wood is a favorite "dish" of various insects, but with the use of special impregnations you can forget about such problems.

As a rule, lining is treated with similar means at the stage of its manufacture. However, over time, the material will still require independent care. Fortunately, stores sell many suitable products and varnishes that will provide the lining with excellent protection from negative external factors.

Instructions step by step

Horizontal installation of wooden lining is carried out from the ceiling to the floor, and the grooves should be directed downwards. This is necessary to prevent dust and moisture from getting into the joints. Vertical wall cladding starts from the corner. The technology itself is quite simple; step-by-step instructions include three main steps:

1. Preparation of material and base.

Initially, the wooden parts must undergo acclimatization, so they must be brought into the room being finished and left for 2-3 days. After which it is advisable to treat the boards on both sides with special compounds that extend the life of the wood. The ceiling or walls on which the lining will be installed are cleared of debris, additional communications are laid, and locations for switches and sockets are marked.

2. Frame placement.

Frame strips are selected based on the curvature of the walls. If the finishing plane is flat, you can use thin slats. Installed parts are measured with a building level and plumb line. Additional support strips are fixed along the perimeter of window and door openings for installation. In one row, a gap should be left between the bars for natural air circulation. When laying insulation, the pitch of the sheathing must correspond to the width of the insulating materials. A small indentation is left from the ceiling and floor to make it easier to fix the sheathing.

3. Installation of lining.

Installation of wooden boards can be done using several methods: using nails or self-tapping screws, as well as using special fastening devices - clamps. In the first case, the nail is driven into the groove element adjacent to the wall at an angle of 45º. The caps are either bitten off or the nails are driven flush so as not to interfere with the placement of the lock of the next lamella. The cost of traditional fasteners is not too high, but there is a high probability of chipping and cracking of the grooves.

The price of the clamp is a little higher, but this installation option provides the highest quality and most durable grip. In addition, installing the lining on clamps allows for quick reconstruction or replacement without damage. The protruding part of the clamp is inserted into the groove of the carriage board, and the flat base is screwed or tacked with a construction stapler to the sheathing block.

Basic nuances and common mistakes

The main feature of natural wood is slight fluctuations in size due to changes in temperature and humidity. When performing installation work on their own, some craftsmen forget about this fact. When creating any wooden structures, a compensation gap of 1.5-2 cm must be left between the walls and the sheathing. Incorrect installation results from bulging or bending of the lamellas. Extrusion of boards can also occur if the correct technology is not followed or the material is not securely fixed. To avoid this problem, it is recommended to reduce the pitch between the frame posts in order to increase the number of fastening points.

Sometimes, in order to reduce the cost of finishing, special antibacterial and fire-retardant impregnations are deliberately abandoned. However, these products significantly extend the service life, and their price is much less than a new repair. Subsequent treatment of wood with varnish or natural oil also has an excellent effect.

Another common installation mistake is insufficient ventilation of the space behind the lining, which leads to the rapid formation of rot and mold. In order to increase air flow, additional holes are milled in the lower and upper parts of the walls.

Using nails and screws

To the most simple ways Fastening the lining to the wall involves nailing it. Such work can be handled even without the relevant experience and special construction tools. The process looks like this:

• wooden boards are cut into strips of the required length;
• carefully placing the elements on the wall, they are simply nailed directly through the front side;
• The nail heads are flush with the surface of the finishing material.

In this way, you can install it as on a regular wall (which is especially convenient when finishing wooden premises), and on the frame.

Despite the speed and simplicity, this method has certain disadvantages:

• the heads of the nails will be noticeable, which will disrupt the neat appearance of the finish;
• in rooms with high humidity, metal caps may begin to rust, which will lead to the formation of unsightly streaks and discoloration of the lumber around the fastening points.

In this regard, it is more common to fasten the lining with self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws. The length of the screws should be such that the fasteners fit completely into both the lining and the sheathing beams. When choosing fasteners, it is recommended to give preference to options with a countersunk head under cross slot, which will allow the use of mechanized tools and reduce the labor intensity of the process. It is also better to use steel with anti-corrosion coating or aluminum self-tapping screws.

The installation procedure is as follows:

• holes are drilled in the boards with a diameter one size smaller than the fastener itself;
• screws are screwed into the board approximately a third of the thickness;
• the first element is placed against the wall, aligned horizontally and vertically, and then attached to the sheathing, while the fasteners must be screwed in until the screw head is completely hidden in the boards;
• the countersunk head can be sealed using wooden dowels of a suitable texture and shade, or simply putty;
• then the remaining boards are attached.

The third stage of fastening the clapboard boards

Nowadays there is a large number of options modern technologies clapboard fastenings, the most common and reliable are:

• Using nails;
• Using a construction stapler;
• Using clamps.
• Using special strips with a wide internal latch, which are attached to self-tapping screws, dowels or clips.

Tips for attaching clapboard boards:

• Be careful, as it is quite easy to damage the lining during installation. Therefore, we recommend purchasing 10-15% more material in advance;
• Use a hammer to ensure that the nail heads do not stick out and the cladding looks neat;

Types of linings

*If you use nails for fastening, we recommend buying copper or galvanized nails - they will serve you much longer than regular ones.

• When attaching boards to walls, it is important to leave a gap of two to three centimeters at the ceiling and floor. This will improve ventilation and prevent the wood from deforming under the influence of temperature. In any case, you can cover these gaps with baseboards, and the corners with special corners.
• A good option for fastening the lining would be to fasten it using a construction stapler. Special rigid brackets nail the grooves of the boards to the sheathing;

Fastening the boards to the sheathing with a construction stapler.

• A fastening method called hidden is often used. It is more difficult to install and without special knowledge it will be extremely difficult to use. Nails are driven at an angle into the grooves of the boards and when the next wooden element is inserted they are practically invisible;
• Another high-quality method would be fastening using special devices - clamps - metal brackets, one part of which is screwed to the frame, and the other part is screwed into the grooves of the linings. Their choice depends on the thickness. Can be purchased either separately or in a set with screws/nails;
• For more beautiful effect a hidden type of fastening is used, when the groove of the board is nailed to the frame along with the tenon.

Vertically located lining visually increases the space of the steam room.

Rules for fastening the lining

If the wall of the house is made of wood and has a flat and smooth surface, then the elements can be mounted directly on it. In all other cases, in order for the wall finishing to be of high quality and durable, it is necessary to use lathing.

Once the direction has been determined, the necessary material and tools should be purchased. For vertical or horizontal you will need:

• Technology of finishing a room with clapboard.
• pine slats with a section of 40x20 mm;
• antiseptic composition;
• wooden spacers;
• screws with plastic dowels;
• 2 cords;
• plumb line;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw or fine-tooth saw;
• finishing nails with a thin base and small heads;
• hammer;
• a core with a blunt end or a punch;
• clamps - special metal staples;
• nails, screws or a construction stapler for attaching clamps.

Technologies for horizontal, diagonal and vertical laying of lining are slightly different from each other, so it is necessary to consider each option separately.

If you decide to build a house, then you definitely need to think about what the gable roof gable will be like. To arrange it, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and choose the right material for finishing. It is important to select the lightest materials, but among them quality characteristics there must also be strength. After all, the pediment will be subject to constant exposure to negative factors throughout the year. external environment. The surface must not only withstand the influence of aggressive factors, but also maintain a decent appearance, since the facade of the house is the calling card of its owners.

Pediment device

If we are talking about a simple gable structure, then first you need to install gables on both sides of the building. Next, you should create a support for the rafters, using a massive Mauerlat as a supporting base. It is made from hardwood. The cross-section of the beam is usually square, and its side is 10 cm.

Before installation, it is important to thoroughly treat the elements with antiseptics. This will significantly extend the lifespan of the materials at the base of the pediment. This way you will protect them from rot and mold. This is especially important if the house is built in conditions of constant winds and frequent precipitation, which can negatively affect the wood.

Using bricks

If brick will be used in the construction of the pediment, and the structure will have standard dimensions, then it is necessary to prepare 35 elements per 1 square meter. As for the weight of the brick, it varies from 2.5 to 7 kg, which will depend on the type and thickness of the product. In order to lighten the structure, it is recommended to use hollow bricks, this will reduce the load on the floor.

The pediment can be made using blocks that have an external glazed finish. This eliminates the need for finishing work. Among other things, if there are no decorative materials in the structure, this will not place additional load on the walls and foundation. It is necessary to build a pediment using 1/2 brick.

Features of installation

If the upper part has a significant area, then it is important to strengthen the structure. To do this, the lower rows must be reinforced. After this, concrete is poured. However, it must be remembered that such a gable roof gable will have more significant weight. In order to solve the problem, it is recommended to strengthen the structure by erecting walls in the form of spacers from the attic side. In order for the attic space to be warm, the gable inside should be insulated. This procedure can be combined with roof waterproofing, which should be done after the roof is installed.

In order to make the gable more aesthetically pleasing, you can use plaster, sandwich panels or siding. In some cases, decoration is carried out using plastic panels or wooden planks. Before starting work, it is important to determine what height and shape the pediment will have. A mast must be mounted in the area where the top of the structure is fixed. Afterwards, the cord is pulled from the top of this element, then it is necessary to fix it in a taut state. At the next stage, you can proceed to installing the structure itself.

The pediment of a gable roof for a residential space, as a rule, has a height of 0.7 m. This is true in the absence of an attic. When arranging a full-size pediment, which is one of the walls of the future attic, the height should be 1.5 m. If you plan to build a full-fledged room, then this figure can be increased to 2.1 m.

Strengthening the pediment

The installation of a gable roof requires strengthening of the pediment. This allows the structure to be firmly fixed. To ensure rigidity, a dividing wall must be erected, the minimum thickness of which is 24 cm. It must be installed perpendicular to the gable wall. Can be used to strengthen a column. Some builders use the method of constructing a reinforced concrete frame; it is reinforced with four rods whose diameter is 10 cm.

Method of constructing a pediment

A wooden pediment requires the use of boards 3 centimeters thick. They must be laid horizontally, positioned in the roof gap. In this case, finishing can be done facade plaster or sheet materials like siding. If we are talking about unheated and utility rooms, then the pediment can be made in the form of a frame structure, which is made of steel mesh. To do this, it is necessary to assemble the frame using corners, which are fixed mechanically and secured to a chain-link mesh.

Before making the gable of a gable roof, you need to take into account what slope it has. If it is insignificant, then metal siding can be used for decoration. The use of this material will provide a good aesthetic appearance and protection from climatic factors. However, the disadvantage is its low strength.

Carrying out calculations

Once you have found out what type of structure a gable roof has, you can ask about the specifics of the calculation. This will determine the area of ​​the structure. If we are talking about a triangular shape, then the ridge will act as the vertex of a right triangle. Its height is the leg. The second leg will be the width of the house if we are talking about B gable design the second leg is the width of the house, which must be divided by two. The height of the ridge can be determined by multiplying the leg length by the tangent. A table of tangents can be found in a geometry textbook.

Before deciding how to sew up the roof gable, it is necessary to make calculations. Thus, if the house is 10 meters wide and the slope is 35 degrees, then the tangent will be 0.7. This indicates that the height of the pediment is 3.5 meters. This indicator was found by dividing 10 by 2 and multiplying by 0.7. Once this value has been calculated, you can determine the height should be multiplied by the length of the base, and the result obtained should be divided by two. In the example given, this value will be 17.5 square meters.

Finishing the gable with siding

If you are thinking about how to cover the roof gable, you can use siding for this. This technology involves the use of guides that are mounted vertically. These elements will form the frame and should be 40 cm apart from each other. If you decide to use wood as the basis for the cladding, then it must first be treated with an antiseptic composition. During installation, a certain distance must be left between the ends of the panel; it will compensate for temperature changes in linear dimensions.

In order for all elements to be securely fastened, special nails should be used. When finishing the roof gable with siding, you need to choose self-tapping screws that do not have a drill at the end. The length of the hardware should be 30 millimeters, this will be enough to securely fasten the panels. The average consumption of self-tapping screws when installing siding is approximately 1600 pcs. per 100 square meters.

Cladding of the pediment with clapboard

The finishing of the roof gable can be done using lining. In this case, L-shaped profiles based on PVC should be used as guides. These elements are installed using self-tapping screws that have a wide head. They must be installed around the perimeter of the pediment and around the door. If it is to be finished, then this profile should be installed around its perimeter. The step between the clamps should be 35 cm, but no more.

Features on the pediment

The gable cladding must be made taking into account strength. To prevent the profile from being torn off by the wind, PVC panels must be installed vertically. At the same time, installation can be done much easier, because the oblique cut will have to be made only on one side. If cutting is necessary, you must use a construction knife with a removable blade. During the work, it is recommended to use stainless steel screws that have a wide head. The use of metal staples that are clogged with a stapler should be avoided. Ordinary self-tapping screws of small diameter will not work either. A strong gust of wind may tear off the panel if they are used.

In order to secure the last panel, if the guides are already installed, it is necessary to determine the distance from the edge of the front of the penultimate panel to the central shelf. This will allow you to get a clean size. Then 5 millimeters should be subtracted from it, which will indicate the width of the last panel. Several such measurements need to be made, taking into account the fact that the panel will be installed obliquely. The workpiece must first be installed in the guide until it stops, and then the chamfer must be slightly pressed. In this case, the lining should lie firmly on the plane.

Conclusion

Once the installation of the gable roof has been completed and the installation of the finishing material on the gable has been completed, we can assume that you have managed to cope with the process. It is important to follow the technology, choose high-quality materials, and then the result will be as expected, which means it will please your whole family.

Often, when building a roof, owners forget about some seemingly insignificant details. We propose to consider how to sheathe the roof gable, what it is, and also how to construct this area with your own hands.

General concepts about the pediment

The pediment is the triangular part of the wall between the edges of the gable roof. The shape of the pediment depends on the rafter system, climate, and aesthetic preferences. There is also the concept of a gable wall, which refers to the entire wall located directly below the triangular area.

Photo - Pediment wall

Most often you can see gable roofs with gables; these types of coverings are used for finishing using various profiles (corrugated and flat), plasterboard, and wooden boards.

Houses in average climate zones are often equipped with a pediment, for example, if a sloping or multi-gable roof is used. Despite its practicality, this structure has its drawbacks, for example, it is rarely used for a pitched roof, private log houses (they are immediately built with a gable wall) or places where hurricanes are frequent.

The overhang of the pediment may be different, but before installation you need to calculate how to make the slope correctly, what distance is maintained and what material can be used to sew it up. For these purposes, it is recommended to call specialists, because... they will take into account the characteristics of a particular region, the requirements of the owners, load-bearing capacity Houses.

Photo - Pediment frame

Video: pediment installation

Making a pediment

To sew up a pediment yourself, install it or dismantle it, you do not need any special skills; just look at our photos and videos. Step-by-step instructions on how to make a pediment on a mansard, multi-gable, lean-to, hip or half-hip roof.

From the formula it follows that h is the height; a is the width of the end, the resulting number is equal to the area of ​​the pediment. If the roof has three gables, then the calculation is carried out for each separately.

Main elements of the pediment:

1. Ridge board;
2. Fastening steel studs;
3. Rafters.

You may also need several triangular (or others in the shape of the roof) parts, screws, a level, insulating materials (films, corrugated cardboard, sealants, glue).

The ridge board runs parallel to the peak of the roof external walls. At the top, the common rafters are nailed to the board and sloped down toward the exterior walls, where they are nailed to the ceiling joists and side surfaces.

Photo - Clapboard pediment

All rafters are the same size, length of each span and roof pitch. The pediment is made according to the Pythagorean theorem, the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse (if the roof is isosceles triangular), if the shape of the slope is different, then use the appropriate rule to determine the area of ​​the pediment.

Before starting work, you need to make sure that the roof and walls are connected to drainage system, covered, if necessary, valleys and other elements are installed. Once all this is done, you will need to build a strong platform that will serve as the basis for the future gable. Craftsmen often use board similar to loft framing to create a stylish design.

Photo - Pediment made of corrugated sheets

If the roof slope is very steep or the rafters have a long span, then you will need to install insulation and support. In order to construct a reinforcing structure, you will need to measure the center of the inclination of the boards, and then install some kind of supports there. They are best made from reinforcement with a cross-section of at least 5 cm or wooden boards (at least 6). Always use straight timber for the ridge board, this will make the gable installation easier and the job neater when finished.

On a three-gable roof It’s a little more difficult to work with; you need to take into account not only the load on the side parts of the roof, but also the combined weight. To prevent the structure from collapsing, you will need to attach the boards in the center to the rafter system, and at the pivot joint, connect them together. The result is a cone-shaped system; it is considered quite strong, especially if the rafter system is made of wooden boards. The connection is recommended to be made with roofing nails (100 or 200) and screws. If you work with metal, then self-tapping screws and rivets are useful; the diameter is selected based on the type of material.

Photo - Sheathing the pediment with plastic

Next you need to cut out the structural supports. These supports will connect both pointed ends and ensure simplified installation of corrugated sheeting on the roof. We recommend selecting boards with a cross-section of 4 cm or more. Using a countersink, make space for screws in each side of the gable to attach the side pieces and structural supports. Use external glue and 1-1/2 inch deck screws for assembly.

Photo - Structural supports

Now fill each threaded hole with a wooden plug. This will increase heat resistance, improve the quality of the roof and its aesthetic qualities.

Photo - Roof with plugs

Next we begin to install top part roofs. Filing is carried out from top to bottom, i.e. from the ridge, this design helps to connect the sides of the roof as tightly as possible and minimize the likelihood of leakage. You can work with corrugated sheets, metal tiles or wooden boards, but it is recommended to install plywood directly on the gable.

The design of the pediment frame may include other elements intended not only to strengthen the pediment wall, but also for convenient cladding of the frame, as well as installation of insulating material.

As an example, you can consider installing an attic with a gable roof on an old house.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	A decision was made to replace the conventional gable roof with a mansard structure with a living space located in it. To do this, the ceiling in the attic must be raised to a height of at least 2300÷2500 mm. In addition, the task was set to preserve the original area of ​​​​the room as much as possible. For this purpose, craftsmen install a frame 600–700 mm high on the walls of the house, which retains the area of ​​the attic floor throughout its entire height. Thus, this part of the frame will become the lower part of the walls of the future room, as well as an element of the pediment of the front and rear parts of the building.
	In the example under consideration, a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 150×100 mm is attached to the upper part of the walls of the house, on which, according to the markings, racks are installed in increments of 500÷600 mm. These elements can be fixed to the harness using nails or metal corners and screws. Mounted on top of the racks, on each side of the building top harness this part of the frame, consisting of timber. The result is a kind of “staircase” installed horizontally. To give this part of the frame rigidity, two diagonal beams are additionally fixed on each side, extending from the upper corner to the middle part of the “stairs”. It should be noted that each of the elements of this part of the frame can be assembled on the ground, and then raised and secured to the walls of the house, after which it is fastened at the corners of the building with metal corners.
	When the lower part of the frame of the attic walls is ready, they proceed to the construction of a rafter system, in which the upper frame of the previously installed frame is used as a Mauerlat for the rafters. However, first, markings are made on the end sides of the building, on the installed frame, during which the middle of the strapping beam must be found, to which a stand will be temporarily attached, determining the location and height of the ridge. Then, these posts are connected at the top with a stretched cord or a long strip, with a guideline towards which the ridge will be formed.
	When installing the attic roof rafter system, in particular when installing the sheathing, we must not forget about the formation of front overhangs, which must protrude beyond the gable wall by at least 300 mm. Overhangs are formed when installing beams or sheathing boards, the protruding parts of which will subsequently be cut to the same size and then fastened together perpendicular to the board fixed on them.
	In the upper part, at the height of the future ceiling of the room, strings are attached to the rafters. These elements will become a kind of frame for insulation and ceiling cladding, and the tie rods located on the outer rafter pairs will be included in the design of the gable frame.
	Next, relying on the already fixed parts of the frame sheathing, the remaining parts of the structure are secured - additional racks and jumpers between them. In this option, a window is supposed to be placed on the gable wall, so first of all, the frame of the window opening is installed, and then additional frame beams are attached to it. There is probably no need to say that the entire structure must be rigid and durable, otherwise it will not last long.
	Now everything is ready for the external cladding of the gable frame and side walls, as well as the gable overhangs. For the external cladding of the entire attic, the owner of the house chose a wooden board, which they begin to install from the eaves line, gradually rising first to the window opening, and then to the ridge.
	The boards are attached to the frame using nails or self-tapping screws. The length of the fastener is selected depending on the thickness of the board, taking into account the fact that the nail (screw) must enter the sheathing beam at least 25-30 mm. For the fixed overhangs, the same material was used that first covers the inside of this section of the pediment, and then the end side.
	In this option, the process of reconstructing an old house includes not only updating the roof and turning it into an attic, but also combining it with the walls of the house by finishing it with one material - natural lining. The result of the construction and decorative cladding of the pediment is presented in this illustration.
	In addition to the process described above, you can imagine a frame pediment, which is installed before the construction of the rafter system. The pediment frame can be completely assembled on the ground and displayed in finished form on the end walls of the building, and then temporarily, until the structure is connected to the rafters and purlins, secured to the attic floor using a support beam. However, in this case, several assistants will be required to complete the work, since it will not be possible to lift the structure to a height alone. If there is nowhere to wait for special help, then you can prepare and adjust all the elements of the frame to size on the ground, and then raise the workpieces to a height and assemble the frame alone or attract one assistant for this purpose.

Gables made of logs or timber

This type of pediment is called chopped and is most often erected if the walls of the house are built from the same material.

To build a chopped pediment, use a log with a diameter of 220÷250 mm or a beam with a cross-section of 150×150 mm. The blanks will have different lengths, gradually decreasing towards the ridge point.

Before starting the construction of a timber structure, attic floor Often a template for the future pediment made from boards is installed. Using this template it will be easier to trim the sides of the future triangle.

The logs are stacked and cut to the crown of the house frame using dowels, and their installation is carried out in the form of a pyramid, that is, each subsequent log is shorter than the previous one.

A peculiarity of the construction of pediments from logs is that the structures on both walls are mounted simultaneously, since they must be connected to each other by slabs (log purlins) laid on the edges of the pyramids being erected. To do this, special semicircular grooves called cups are cut into the slugs.

If the distance between the two gables is more than 6000 mm, the logs are assembled from two logs, joining them along the length on the internal load-bearing wall.

The uppermost leg, connecting the vertices of the triangles, is called the “prince” or “princely” - it will serve as a support for the ridge (ridge purlin) in the design of the rafter system. The rest, ordinary legs, located horizontally, will become supporting for the rafter legs along their entire length. The distance between the slabs, when measured along the gable slope, can vary from 800 to 1500 mm, depending on the height and width of the rafter system.

After the construction of the gables is completed, the cut is marked. It is done at the top point of the legs, tangentially to them. For this purpose, it is best to use a painting cord, which is stretched from the “prince” to the bottom row, and with the help of it a line is drawn.

This illustration shows the main design elements of a rafter system with a log gable:

1 - Rafter legs.

2 – “Princely” slightly.

3 – One of the privates fell ill. The distance between the legs is from 800 to 1500 mm.

4 – Sheathing details for the chosen one roofing material, which are placed parallel to the slugs.

5 – “Filly”, lengthening the rafter leg and forming a cornice overhang over the side walls of the house.

This diagram showed a design where the first pair of rafters is installed inside the attic, and the gable overhang will be formed later, after the installation of the entire roof is completed. But they often do things differently:

This option involves moving the first rafter leg beyond the pediment. it will also become the framing element for the gable overhang.

Both in the first and in the second constructive solution To secure the rafter legs more rigidly, semicircular grooves are cut into them, which can also be called cups.

It should be noted here that taking on work with logs without experience and developed skills in carpentry, is not recommended, since this process requires special knowledge and skills. Therefore, if you decide to build a log house, it is better to invite professional craftsmen, who are familiar with this technology first-hand.

Arrangement of an overhang over the pediment

An overhang is almost always installed above the pediment, which is designed to protect walls and windows from the direct impact of precipitation. This structural element can be formed in different ways and have different widths, which vary from 200 to 500 (and sometimes even more) millimeters.

In any case, for the overhang to be strong, it must have a reliable connection to the rafter system.

The design of the overhang formation must be decided at the roof design stage, otherwise during its construction you will have to face various difficulties in securing the frame of this pediment part.

To arrange the frame of a gable overhang, a board of the same section as for the rafters is most often used, therefore, when purchasing material, you must immediately take into account the number of necessary parts. In addition, when installing the ridge, you can provide for the extension of the ridge board forward to the width of the overhang, since it will become one of the structural elements.

In the same case, if the ridge board is not long enough, then it will have to be lengthened with an insert, which is made from the material of the same cross-section as the ridge girder, and is superimposed on it by 400–500 mm, fastened in 5–7 places with bolts through a metal plate.

In the lower part of the structure, the eaves board of the gable overhang is fastened to the end girder board, as shown in Figure (b).

The eaves board is fastened to the rafter system by means of the necessary extension of the boards or sheathing beams.

This overhang option can be called the most reliable, since it is formed simultaneously with the sheathing of the rafter system, and forms a single structure. To do this, the sheathing boards, when secured to the counter-lattice, are moved forward to the planned width of the overhangs (usually with a small margin for subsequent precise trimming).

Another option for forming an overhang is to install external crossbars (fillies) on the pediment frame and the outer rafters, and then they are connected along the edge with a cornice board.

After completing the installation of the gable overhang frame, they begin to cover it. For these purposes, plastic or wooden lining is most often used, as well as moisture-resistant plywood for painting.

However, no matter what material is chosen, when installing it on the frame, it is necessary to provide ventilation ducts to ventilate the under-roof space, which should pass from eaves overhang slopes to the ridge. When using plastic lining for cladding, additional elements are used in conjunction with it, such as guide profiles, corners and perforated soffit panels for ventilation, which are built into the cladding.

If the pediment of the building is planned to be visually separated from the walls, then a longitudinal sheathing beam running along the wall is mounted along its bottom line, as well as on the lower end edges of the overhang.

The two lines of timber should create a slope from the wall of approximately 15 degrees. From below, to create rigidity, two lines of the beam are connected by crossbars and stop bars, fixed to the wall.

Then this frame is covered with a metal canopy. Typically, roofing material is used in this capacity - corrugated sheeting or metal tiles, the same one that is used for the entire roof of the house.

It would be wise to use an ebb corner in combination with a metal canopy, which is fixed to the gable wall before installing the finishing material on it. The ebb is placed above the canopy, and then they can be fastened together with roofing screws with sealing press washers. Then, when installing the decorative trim, the upper flange of the ebb will disappear under it.

The underside of these overhangs is hemmed with clapboard along with the overhangs of the slopes.

Insulation of the gable

Installation of insulation on a gable wall is most often carried out if the attic or attic will be used as a living space. However, thermal insulation of the roof and gable, among other things, will never hurt, except, perhaps, only in those cases when a cold, constantly ventilated attic is needed.

Thermal insulation of frame gable

This process is most conveniently carried out simultaneously with insulation of all walls and slopes of the attic superstructure.

An approximate diagram of a thermal insulation structure used for insulating frame gables is as follows.

Work on the creation of such sandwich panels is carried out in the following order:

• After the construction of the pediment frame (item 2), a hydro-windproof film (item 3) is stretched and secured onto it from the street side. Its installation is carried out on staples driven in using a stapler. It does not allow moisture and wind to pass into the thermal insulation layer, but at the same time it will not prevent the free escape of water vapor from the insulation, ensuring its ventilation.
• On top of the film along the frame elements, slats are packed, 15÷20 mm thick, which decorative cladding from the waterproofing membrane and will help create a ventilation gap.
• Next, the outer part of the gable wall is sheathed with the selected finishing material (item 2) - this can be plastic or wooden lining, siding, or moisture-resistant plywood for painting. If wood finishing is chosen, then the boards must be treated with antiseptic impregnation in advance.
• The next stages of work will be carried out from inside the attic. The first of these will be the laying of thermal insulation material (item 4). Most often, high-quality basalt mineral wool is used to create warm gable walls. The insulation mats are tightly installed between the frame elements, so that they stand apart, without gaps.

You can find examples where the owner uses expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) to insulate a frame gable. Without disputing the thermal insulation qualities of this material, we still cannot agree that it is good option. With an absolute gain in cost, the owner receives a lot of disadvantages, the main one of which is the increased fire hazard of the material. The roof is always the most vulnerable part of the building in this regard, and when using polystyrene foam it will be almost impossible to extinguish the fire that has started. In addition, when burned, it releases extremely toxic gases that are deadly to all living things.

• The mineral wool is stretched on top of the frame sheathing beams vapor barrier film(item 5), which will not allow water vapor from the room to penetrate the insulation. In addition, small fibers from the insulation will not get into living rooms.
• Next, on top of the vapor barrier, boards, bars or slats are attached to the elements of the frame sheathing, on which the sheathing material will be mounted (item 6) - this could be, for example, plywood, natural wooden lining or plasterboard.

Another option for insulating a frame gable can be the use of polyurethane foam, sprayed onto the outer skin from the inside or poured into the cavity between the inner and outer skin. This material has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, after polymerization and hardening it becomes absolutely safe from an environmental point of view, and is a self-extinguishing insulation material that does not spread flames. The only difficulty is that applying such polyurethane foam thermal insulation requires special equipment and some experience in its use.

External gable insulation

It is recommended to insulate a pediment built from blocks or bricks from the outside, since internal insulation can lead to very big problems. In winter, the walls will freeze through, and moisture will begin to accumulate between them and the insulation, which will ultimately lead to the formation of fungus and mold. As a result, the thermal insulation system will not function properly and will soon require repairs or even complete replacement, and the walls will have to be “treated” with antiseptic solutions.

Most often, external insulation of the pediment is carried out simultaneously and inextricably with the thermal insulation of all walls of the facade.

The opinions of experts on this issue differ diametrically.- some argue that you first need a finished pediment, others definitely advise building the roof first. Therefore you can definitely consider both options to be equivalent.

You can find out about the types of rafter system.

The procedure for installing gables

How to calculate area and dimensions

The need to calculate the area of ​​the pediment may arise when determining the amount of building or finishing materials for its construction.

Calculation of the area and size of the pediment is based on geometry and is based on house design data.

How to calculate the area of ​​a pediment gable we roofs we can find out according to the formula The area of ​​a triangle is the product of the base and the height divided in half., where the base is the width of the end wall of the house, the height is the height of the roof from the ceiling to the ridge.

If the height is unknown, but the width of the wall is available, then the height can be determined by multiplying the width of the end (gable) wall by the tangent of the angle of inclination, determined from the Bradis tables. Most often, height future roof known in advance, so complex calculations are rarely necessary.

When designing a house, it is important to calculate the load on the foundation, because the weight of brick or cinder block gables makes serious adjustments to the load distribution. Therefore, all dimensions are most often calculated at the project development stage.

Pediment calculation

What materials are gable walls made of?

The best solution is to build a pediment from the same materials as the walls. That is, brick walls - brick pediment, log walls - log pediment, etc. At the same time, this preference is made mainly for aesthetic reasons, for the perception of the integrity of the building, greater accuracy and composure of the building.

Nevertheless, often a different material is chosen for the pediment, which is due to the desire reduce the load on the walls and foundation, simplify the construction and insulation of the pediment. For example, frame type has significantly less weight, it can be easily erected both before and after the construction of the roof, it has excellent heat-retaining properties, in addition - it is much cheaper than any other.

Such properties make frame gable most commonly used in construction. One way or another, all considerations regarding the choice of material have their pros and cons.

The main options are:

• Brick(cinder block, aerated concrete blocks, etc.) pediment.
• Wood, timber, log type.
• Frame type of construction, the lightest and with a lot of finishing options.

The final choice of material is made by the owner himself based on these specific conditions and features of the building.

Brick version

Wooden version

Gable roof rafter system: gable and tying methods

There are two options: with wood or with brick. Let's take a closer look at them.

Wooden pediment

Often it is, in fact, sheathed on the outermost row of rafters. If it is made of timber or logs, then its shape exactly follows the outlines of the rafters, and the pediment is connected by a sheathing to the rafter system.

It must be remembered that timber or logs are heavy materials that do not allow the construction of a pediment after the roof is erected. But frame option more convenient for work after the roof has been built, since the boards are an easily processed material, light in weight, and are quite suitable for work on site.

Usually a wooden pediment is not considered as independent element , it can be built in parallel with the rafter system, since this does not require a solution or other “wet” binders. In addition, simultaneous construction allows for a more precise fit of the parts and elements of the rafters and gable to each other.

Wooden tying method

Installation of a wooden pediment

Brick pediment

Requires priority construction. There are cases of subsequent filling of the end section of the roof with brick, but these are just special cases that occurred due to circumstances. The transverse beams that are carried must be laid on the finished gable wall. To do this, its edges must be smooth to prevent curvature of the roof cut.

Laying is carried out along a stretched cord, one end of which is attached to the rail and marks the top point of the skate. The other end of the cord is attached to the bottom point. The top is equipped with a recess for the ridge beam, the same recess is made in the base for the Mauerlat.

For a large area of ​​slopes, additional intermediate bars are used, located in the middle of the slopes and providing support for the rafters in the middle. The subsequent installation of rafters and sheathing firmly connects all the supporting beams to each other and strengthens the pediment, protecting it from wind and other loads.

Stone tying method

Installation of a stone pediment

Insulation of gable wall

gable wall is important when planning to use the attic for housing or for a long stay for other purposes - workshop, office, etc.

The wooden and frame types themselves are good heat insulators, and the frame type already has a layer of insulation inside the sandwich.

Two methods of insulation are used - inside and out. From the point of view of convenience and safety of work, insulation from the inside is preferable.

But from the point of view of physics, it will be more effective to insulate from the outside, since in this case the dew point is moved outside the wall and the moisture has the opportunity to evaporate into the atmosphere, and not inside the house or the insulating layer.

There are a lot of insulation materials that work well in such conditions:

• Glass wool;
• Minvata;
• Styrofoam;
• Penoplex.

These and similar materials successfully perform their task. Siding or other sheathing materials can be used for exterior cladding.

ATTENTION!

The pediment of the building, being a support for the rafter system, at the same time partially increases the load on it due to the influence of wind. Therefore, its construction must be carried out with an understanding of all loads and ways to compensate for them., otherwise there will be excessive pressure on the rafter system, which can lead to deformation of the roof.

If you are building a house or other building yourself or carrying out exterior finishing, then you will need to know the area of ​​the pediment. This is necessary both to calculate the amount of insulation for thermal insulation, and to determine the volume of finishing materials. The process is quite simple, so you can easily cope with it, even if you don’t remember your school materials on geometry well.

Not all roofs have gables, but most houses still have this element. In general, the pediment refers to the part of the building that is limited by the roof slopes on the sides and the eaves of the building below. The most common options are triangular in shape, although trapezoidal elements can also be found. And in some buildings this part even has a complex structure.

Features of pediments and methods for calculating their area

We will analyze all the aspects related to this part of the design so that you understand the topic thoroughly and can calculate everything yourself.

Types of structures by installation method

There are two main options that are very different from each other; let’s look at each of them in more detail.

The first type is constructed even before the roof is installed; its main features are as follows:

• The entire roof depends on the gable. The structure usually acts as a load-bearing element that determines the size and configuration of the future roof. In this situation, it is very important to make all calculations correctly. Any mistakes are fraught with curvature of the slopes, which are unlikely to be eliminated without dismantling the entire roofing structure;

• Most often, such elements serve as a continuation of the wall. and create a continuous surface from top to bottom. This allows you to get a durable structure that will withstand high loads. This method of constructing a box saves time and money;

• The gables may have windows if a house with residential attic floor. This significantly complicates the work process, so it is better to entrust the construction of such options to professionals;

Since such structures are not reinforced in any way, it is advisable to install the rafters soon after their construction. In my practice, there have been cases when strong winds destroyed gables made of timber and gas silicate blocks. If you need the structure to stand, then reinforce it with spacers and jumpers.

The second option is installed after the construction of the rafter system; this is a simpler solution that has the following features:

• To strengthen the surface, first of all, a frame is installed. It must be strong enough to provide additional support roofing system, thereby increasing its resistance to wind and snow loads;

• This is a simpler option since you don't need to calculate the structure configuration. Therefore, this solution is more preferable for those who do not have work experience;
• For the construction, you can use a different material than for the walls. And the surface of the pediment can be slightly extended relative to the surface of the wall.

Calculation work

Even if you use an online calculator, you need to know a few numbers:

Illustration	Description
	Height. This is the distance from the base of the structure to its very top. This indicator can also be found in project documentation, but it’s better to double-check it in person. Try to check all the numbers that are in the project, as builders often make deviations that will affect the accuracy of the calculations.
	Pediment width. This is the distance along the base of the structure - at the widest part. The diagram shows the two most common options and indicates in which places the length and width need to be determined.
	Determining the roof slope angle. If you don’t have the equipment to determine this indicator, it doesn’t matter. Use the table on the left. To do this, measure exactly 1 meter from the edge of the pediment, then measure the height of the slope in this place. The resulting value will tell you the slope.

To build a roof yourself, you need to have special skills. In addition, this process requires attention and precision. To create a reliable and durable roof, a correctly drawn up project is required, which describes the parameters of the structure being built. An important part of the roof is the gable, the construction process of which should be approached carefully. In addition, it is important to know how to calculate the gable area of ​​a gable roof.

Description and design features of the pediment

The pediment is part of the end wall, which is limited on the sides by the roof slopes and below by the cornice. The shape of the pediment is determined by the location of the slopes; depending on this, a triangle, trapezoid, pentagon and even an oval are formed.

The pediment can be installed in two ways:

• Before the construction of the rafter system. This option requires careful calculations of height and area, otherwise you may end up with a skewed roof structure. The advantage of this type is the construction of a pediment without interference.
• After completing the roofing work. In this situation, it is not necessary to solve the problem of how to calculate the area of ​​the pediment of a gable roof, since the space between the slopes is covered with boards or brickwork is done. This option can be used by novice craftsmen who have difficulty making calculations. In addition, finishing the gable in this way does not affect the finished roof in any way.

It is important to calculate the height and area of ​​the pediment at the design stage in order to know what material to use for the cladding and what load is expected from this on the foundation. The task of how to calculate the gable of a roof can be done using simple geometric formulas from a school course, but online calculators can help you make more accurate calculations.

Calculation of the height of the pediment

Determining the height of the gable is a fairly important stage in roof design. This parameter determines the appearance of the roof and the functionality of the building.

• Roof design features. The main determinants of the height and area of ​​the pediment are the slope and length of the slopes. Using these parameters, it is easy to make the appropriate calculations using a calculator. To do this, measure the length of the end wall, divide it in half, and multiply the resulting value by the tangent of the angle that is formed between the slope and the base of the roof.
• Functional purpose of the roof space. The height of the pediment depends on the nature of the use of the room under the roof. For an ordinary attic, a height of 140-180 cm is sufficient. For a mansard-type roof in which a living space is planned, the roof height should be from 250 to 300 cm.

In addition, the correct calculation of the pediment determines the appearance of the entire structure. A low roof makes the house squat, and if the distance from the eaves to the ridge is too large, the roof takes on an overwhelming position. The optimal option is the ratio of the height of the house from the top crown to the ground to the height of the pediment in a ratio of 1:1.

Determining the area of ​​the gable

In most cases, the area of ​​the pediment is calculated to more accurately determine the amount of materials that will be used to cover, insulate and cover the pediment.

The area of ​​the pediment can be calculated independently, using knowledge of some school courses; for this you need to imagine the shape of the structure:

• To decide how to calculate the quadrature of a triangular roof gable, it is necessary to divide the product of the height of the gable and the length of the roof base in half. For example, you can take a pediment with a height of 3 meters and a length of the end wall of 6 meters. In this case, the area of ​​the pediment will be equal to (6 * 3): 2 = 9 m 2.
• The area of ​​the trapezoidal pediment is calculated as follows: half the sum of the lengths of the bases is multiplied by the height. For example, the height of the roof is 3 meters, the lower base of the roof is 6 meters long, and the length of the hip is 4 meters. The area of ​​the pediment will have the following value: (4+6):2*3-15 m2.
• Solving the problem of how to calculate the area of ​​a roof gable, which is made in the shape of a pentagon, needs to be solved in a more complex way. To do this, it is necessary to divide the pediment into two simpler figures, a triangle and a trapezoid. Then the area of ​​individual figures is calculated, and the results obtained are summed up.

For a roof of a non-standard shape with several gables, the areas of the individual parts are calculated. In this case, performing calculations without a special program will be much more difficult and longer.

Calculation of the amount of material for a gable roof

As mentioned above, the area and height of the pediment is determined for the purchase of facing materials. Based on the known parameters of this part of the building, it is quite possible to find out how much brick or siding will be required for cladding. The exact finishing area is equal to the difference between the total area of ​​the pediment and the area of ​​the window openings.

Brick calculation

When calculating the number of bricks required for lining the pediment, it is necessary to take into account the type of masonry, the area of ​​one brick and the thickness of the seam. A simple calculation is based on a standard brick size of 250 * 120 * 65 mm and a joint thickness of 5 mm. Masonry of 1 m2 area is made of 57 bricks. Therefore, the area of ​​the pediment must be multiplied by 57. For example, the pediment has an area of ​​15 square meters, for its cladding you will need: 15 * 57 = 855 bricks.

A more complex calculation involves calculating the area depending on the type of masonry, taking into account the thickness of the mortar. Next, the total area of ​​the pediment is divided by the area of ​​one brick.

How to calculate boards for cladding

Calculating the amount of lumber required can be very simple. Why calculate the area of ​​one board, and then divide the area of ​​the pediment by the resulting value. The result must be rounded up.

Calculation of siding and fittings square footage

Calculations of the required amount of siding and additional elements must be carried out carefully, so it is recommended to use the services of specialists or a special program. In this case, you can obtain a more accurate number of panels, profiles and fastening strips that will be required to cover a certain area of ​​the gable.

It is very important to purchase finishing materials with a small margin. To do this, add 15-25% to any obtained values.