What to make a watering can from for watering the garden. DIY garden watering can from an old plastic canister. Shoe sections for vertical gardening

Garden plot or a greenhouse, vegetable garden and garden, flower beds in front of the house or flowerpots in the yard - all this requires watering. But watering fragile, thin flowers with a hose is extremely dangerous. There is a way out: you need to make a watering can with your own hands from scrap materials.

Peculiarities

It is often believed that a watering device is just an everyday tool. However, this opinion is held mainly by people far from farming. Any gardener knows very well that even such a utilitarian device has more than just functional significance. You need to think about how the design fits into the design of the surrounding area or apartment.

Self-production watering tool will not only save money, but also satisfy aesthetic needs.

You can make a watering can for an apartment or private house at home in a single-color version. But it is unlikely that such a thing will attract admiring glances and will please anyone, including the owners. After all, an exactly similar tool can be easily purchased in a store. Sometimes they use juicy bright stickers applied to the surface. But completely covering the watering can is not recommended, because uncovered stickers will quickly deteriorate and peel off.

Only covering with tape helps to avoid the destruction of such decorations. However, it is unlikely that a surface covered with tape will look aesthetically pleasing. Experts advise supplementing watering cans with sprayers. Drip irrigation of house flowers helps refresh the leaves.

But in order to eliminate mistakes, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular culture.

Manufacturing methods

The easiest way, perhaps, is to make a homemade watering can from plastic bottle. Narrow holes are made in the lid using an awl, a sharp needle or a soldering iron tip. But such designs look too ordinary. You can make a more original watering device using non-standard bottles. You can find them in the store without any problems, you just need to spend more time.

Pasting a structure of complex shape is very difficult. Coloring is often the solution. But it is used only when the surface is dense and does not sag. Any paint on a loose, unstable base will quickly crack. In itself, such an appearance may look original - but this solution is acceptable mainly for dachas.

A watering can for flowers can be made from a very ordinary glass. Such a workpiece is more difficult to process. But difficulties of this kind are justified by long-term operation and attractive appearance. Sometimes they also take large ceramic mugs. You will no longer have to punch the irrigation holes with needles, but with a drill. Drilling should be done as carefully as possible. If the material bursts or becomes cracked, the workpiece will be hopelessly damaged. Therefore, it is better to spend an extra few minutes than to spoil your plan. When the holes are punched, do this:

• take a plastic tube of the same thickness as the hole;
• cover the tube and glass with the same paint;
• insert the tube inside the glass;
• glue them together so that there are no places through which water can leak.

It is best to use mugs with a narrow neck. Excessive water will flow out through a wide outlet. As a result, you will have to use the already modest capacity only partially. When for indoor plants need to pour it out a large number of water, it is advisable to use a different design. An enlarged watering can is made from detergent bottles.

To make it more beautiful, chaotically located lines are applied using the most ordinary paints. This technique will create the impression of avant-garde garden tools. Pleasant side effect will be that the dirt will become less noticeable. You can prevent the pattern from washing off by covering the watering can with a layer of varnish. If done correctly, it will even be possible to leave the sprinkler in the yard as a decorative element.

Some people prefer to make watering cans from canisters. All oily liquids and flammable substances must be washed out in advance. Otherwise, plant safety is not guaranteed. The pipe is often formed from tin. It is recommended to prepare a meticulous drawing in advance to eliminate accidental errors.

The curved edges of the tin sheets must be carefully attached to each other. For this operation, beaters or mallets are used. The tube must be placed in the prepared hole. Next, the tube is pulled onto the tap, and another section of it is placed at the other end of the tap. The rigid tube must be carefully pulled onto the protruding part of the flexible channel; the connection must be airtight, so you should pull it all the way.

Once the installation of the tubes is completed, attach the strap to the handle of the canister. Selecting the belt length is at your discretion. To create a nozzle that sprays water, you usually take old photographic film containers. In the lid of such containers it is necessary to punch a hole of the same diameter as the rigid tube. In the other part, a lot of holes are prepared.

You can learn more about how to make a watering can for watering seedlings with your own hands.

Indoor, garden and garden plants need regular watering. Ideally, the applied water during irrigation does not erode the soil, so for irrigation it is better to use a specialized watering can that divides the flow into several thin streams. Although this is an inexpensive piece of equipment, it is not necessary to buy it, but can be made for free in a couple of minutes from a canister that would have been thrown away anyway.

Materials and tools:

• canister with handle;
• drill;
• drill 2 mm.

Making a watering can from a canister

Anyone who grows seedlings knows firsthand how difficult it becomes to water seedlings when they grow.

To somehow make their work easier, summer residents invent various watering cans.

And it’s not at all necessary to go to the store and buy a watering can, especially if you don’t use it often.

You can make a tool for watering plants with your own hands from available materials.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with some of them.

Ways to create a watering can for the garden

Option 1

1. Insert a slightly curved tube into a clean plastic bottle (1.5-2 l). She must be longer than height bottles so that you can easily water the seedlings even in the most inconvenient place.
2. To prevent it from decreasing in diameter (flattening) when bending the tube, cover one edge of the tube with plasticine or clay, pour in water and place in the cold (you can freezer), so that water does not spill out of it.
3. When the water turns into ice, bend the tube. In this case, the handset itself will receive the required form, and the ice will not allow the walls of the tube to shrink.

Many gardeners grow seedlings and a watering can made in this way will be an excellent assistant in caring for seedlings.

Option 2

Sometimes seedlings do not require root watering, but with the capture of leaves. To avoid accidentally dousing the seedlings with water, make a shower head with your own hands.

1. Wash the half-liter plastic bottle thoroughly, remove the stickers from outside and use a marker to place dots, instead of which you will later make holes.
2. Place the dots in a 5x5 square.
3. Hold the head of the nail in the pliers and burn the end of the nail over a fire (candle) for 20-30 seconds.
4. Now pierce the drawn points with a heated nail. When the nail cools down, heat it again.
5. On back side Using a knife, cut a hole for filling the bottle with water so that it is 2-4 cm higher than the watering holes.
6. Fill the bottle with water and carefully position it horizontally over the plants.
7. For convenience, you can use tape to make a handle on a watering can.

Option 3

There are never too many watering cans, either at the dacha or at home for seedlings and plants. Many plants cannot be watered with a hose, this rule is especially often heard in greenhouse gardening, so it is best and easiest to have a watering can at every step.

In order not to spend money on the purchase, we suggest making it yourself:

1. To do this, take any plastic canister (for water, car oil), polypropylene pipe 50 cm long and rotated 60°.
2. Place a “turn” near the bottom on a flat place and use a marker to mark the diameter of the future hole.
3. Cut out and try on how easily the pipe fits into the canister ( large gap must not be).
4. Thoroughly lubricate the joint with hot glue, insert the pipe and leave to dry.
5. Next, all you have to do is put a piece of pipe on the pipe and, if necessary, shorten it by cutting off the excess. The optimal length of the “spout” is considered to be the height that does not exceed the lid of the canister.
6. Tie the tube (spout) to the handle of the canister so that it does not break under water pressure.
7. You can insert a cut plug into the spout so that the water fan out in a limited flow.

If you have to use a watering can to scoop up water in a well, then for ease of filling with water, make a hole on the opposite side of the spout so that the air can quickly escape.

Option 4

You can also make an excellent watering can from a small plastic container (shampoo bottle). To do this, just make holes at the bottom with an awl or nail. Fill a container with water, close the neck, turn it upside down and water.

Option 5

You can make the most primitive watering can. Make holes in the lid of the plastic canister and on the opposite side for air to escape.

Option 6

If it is not possible to regularly water seedlings or seedlings, then it makes sense to use automatic watering. To do this, make holes in the bottom of a plastic bottle with a hot nail, fill the container with water and close the lid. Plant bottles in the ground near each plant in the garden or one for several seedlings.

As you can see, there are many options for making a watering can with your own hands, choose yours, make it and share your suggestions.

Hello DIYers, as well as summer residents and gardeners! This August has finally taken revenge on the previous two abnormally cold and rainy summer months. He has already managed to pamper us with real summer warmth and even heat, but at the same time the situation with rains turned out to be the opposite, since this August there were practically none. Therefore, we had to again take up the watering cans and watering cans and water vegetable beds. And then, in the midst of watering work, our purchased watering can nozzle for a plastic watering basin completely broke down. I must say that from the very beginning it was quite flimsy, and even earlier it had to be wrapped with electrical tape. But then a whole piece broke off and it became completely unsuitable for watering.

It’s true that we also have two old metal sprinklers with durable metal nozzles, but they are quite heavy and not very convenient to use. Moreover, it is especially difficult for women to use them. From this point of view, a modern plastic shower is, of course, much more convenient and therefore is used most often. Therefore, I decided to quickly make homemade nozzle for this watering, literally from what was at hand.

Making a waterfall

This hose fits very well into the neck of the shampoo bottle, since it fits onto it very tightly and firmly and no additional fastening is required.

However, in order to attach the other end of this piece of hose to the spout of the waterer, you need to remove a certain layer of rubber from the inside using a knife.

And this piece of hose fits quite easily, but at the same time very tightly, onto the spout of the waterer.

Now you need to modify the shampoo bottle by drilling holes in it.

To do this, you first need to mark and prick the centers of future holes with an awl.

And then drill them out with a drill.

After this, all that remains is to cut off with a knife from the surface of the bottle the pieces of plastic remaining after drilling the holes.

Then you need to rinse this bottle from any remaining plastic shavings that have gotten inside, and put on the previously prepared piece of rubber hose. And now our nozzle is ready!

Now you can put it on the spout of the waterer.

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Earth drill

Such a technical device makes it possible to easily remove powerful roots of various weeds from the soil, which are deeply seated in it.

The device is designed for applying fertilizer directly to root zone, significantly reducing moisture loss through evaporation, reducing the degree of injury to plant roots, and washing away pests from trunks and branches.

Hydrodrill. 1 – tube, 2 – tip, 3 – hose, 4 – tee, 5 – handle, 6 – tap, 7 – dispenser tank, 8 – flexible partition, 9 – hose, 10 – valve, 11 – hose.

On durable rubber hose put on a conical tip. The diameter of its outlet should be 6 - 8 mm. With a pressure in the water supply of 1 atm, the water flowing out of the hydraulic drill washes out a hole in the soil up to 70 cm deep (up to 6 cm in diameter) in a matter of seconds.

In order to apply fertilizer using a hydraulic drill, a hydraulic compressor with a flexible partition is connected to it. After connecting it, the supply of the nutrient solution is regulated using a special valve.

A drill made from an old pan is fixed on the riser, having previously installed a piece of drill bit (25 mm in diameter) from below. (Instead, you can use a strip of steel twisted in a spiral.) A knife is attached to the body on both sides. Small slots (30–40 mm wide) are made in front of each of them. When the drill is deepened, the soil is fed into the pan through these same slots. Then it is removed.

A drill from an old pan. 1 – tip, 2 – slot, 3 – knife, 4 – knife fastening, 5 – body, 6 – riser.

Markers and seeders

On summer cottage no matter where you turn, there is always demand manual labor. Even primitive mechanization of work will significantly facilitate the task and increase labor productivity. A marker is a device that allows one movement to make not one, but several grooves (or nests) for seeds.

Cross marker. 1 – base, 2 – rail, 3 – handle, 4 – support stand, 5 – tap.

If it is planned that the crops in the bed will be located transversely, the grooves are made using a transverse marker covering the entire width of the bed.

The base of the marker is a board. From below, slats are nailed to it, but not flat, but having a triangular cross-section. A handle with a support stand and a tap is attached to the top. The marker is placed across the ridge and the foot is pressed against the board. In this case, one of the edges of the slate is pressed into the soil and leaves even grooves. The spike of the tap is a kind of boundary for the next installation of the marker. Row by row, placing a marker, mark the entire bed.

When plants are placed along a ridge, a longitudinal marker is used, shaped like a rake. But this is only in form: instead of teeth, 3-sided parallel wooden blocks are attached to the base.

The device makes it possible to make 12 furrows at once in one pass.

Make landings vegetable crops A simple marker will help you be more careful.

Its design and dimensions are shown in the figure (1 – for radish seeds, 2 – for pea seeds).

You can also use an ordinary rake as a marker. But this cannot be done without improvement.

Two metal points are bolted to the rake, longer than their teeth. By drilling several holes in the rake bar and rearranging the tips, you can change the distance between them, and therefore the interval between the grooves.

Helpful when you need to make a lot of holes for seeds. Similar to a tool used by plasterers. Made from a board or piece of chipboard. On work surface The marker is secured with wooden spikes, and a handle is attached on top.

Made from old (“toothless”) rakes. To the base, on the opposite side, “antennae” made of 3 thin metal plates are riveted.

A triangular recess is provided in the middle of the base. Thanks to it, the marker can be moved around taut cord, which guarantees accurate markings.

Designed both for sowing radishes and carrots, and for marking an area for tomatoes and cucumbers. The craftsman based the invention on wooden slats width 50 – 60 mm (thickness 15 – 30 mm and length 130 and 200 cm). He planed them with a plane, giving them a wedge shape, and then connected them with 2 short (proportional to the size of the row spacing) transverse bars. Before starting agricultural work, the gardener places the structure on the bed, lightly presses on it with his foot - and furrows 20–30 mm deep appear in the soil. The innovator determines the location of the future plant as follows: he places a pre-marked pipe with a diameter of 76.2 mm on the site. Its length corresponds to the size of the plot.

The inventor passed a steel rod (12 mm in diameter) through metal pipe(length 30 and outer diameter 6 cm). He placed a bearing on the ends of the home-grown axle.

The gardener attached 2 curved plates to the same axis, forming “horns”. A second pipe, but already 120 cm long, is inserted between their ends (2 rows of holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled through the ears of the plates and the lower end of the second pipe, for greater connection strength. M8 mounting bolts are inserted into them). Depending on the desired row spacing on the rotating horizontal plane The shaft is put on from 3 to 7 disks (outer diameter 100 and inner diameter 60 mm). The thickness of the discs is 10 mm, their outer edge is sharpened to a cone). To make it easier to move the marker, a handlebar from a children's bicycle is inserted into the vertical pipe from above.

Made from a piece of thick plywood (or chipboard). At the base of the device, holes are drilled at the required intervals (in several rows). Wooden round pegs are driven into them, protruding from one side of the base by the required amount. The lower end of the pegs is sharpened. Handles are attached to both sides of the base.

They use such an original device for sowing fairly large seeds. garden crops, placed in a row at a step distance (or a multiple of a step). With its help, you can even sow the seeds of some trees (for example, spruces), as well as corn and melons.

The device, shaped like a bird's beak, is attached with straps to the heel of the shoe. Having taken a step, the gardener presses the “beak” of the seeder into the ground. A hole forms in it. In this case, the lever touches the spring plate and turns. The “beak” opens and the seeds fall into the ground.

The container with seeds is attached to the belt. It is connected to the “beak” with a flexible tube. But just throwing a seed into the ground is not enough: it needs to be watered and fed. For these purposes, another tube is connected to the “beak”, through which water or liquid fertilizer enters the hole.

Eliminates constant bending during sowing. An old bicycle is suitable for making. A movable container for seeds is inserted into the vertical part of the handle. At the bottom of the device, a trapezoidal ploughshare with a seed planting depth regulator and a soil compactor heel are riveted. Before work, seeds are poured into the container and buried in a ploughshare to the required depth (after installing a limiter). Then the “cane” is rotated around its axis by 90 – 130°, resulting in a funnel-shaped nest. After this, the container is lifted and the seeds rush into the chamber. Push through the slot with a finger required amount seeds into a tube.

Cane seeder. 1 – container for seeds, 2 – container fastening, 3 – slot, 4 – chamber, 5 – container, 6 – tube, 7 – paddle, 8 – soil compactor, 9 – depth regulator.

The craftsman attached 3 wheels to the seeder: the rear one is from a children’s bicycle (300 mm in diameter), the front wheels (on the same axle) are from a baby stroller. A box made of multilayer plywood with a plexiglass lid is placed on a frame bent in the shape of the letter “P” from strip iron (size 40x350 mm) (length 525 and width 115 mm) and secured with 2 bolts. This is a seed hopper. Inside the box on 2 plain bearings, in a horizontal plane, mounted main part The device is a shaft carved from birch and varnished, shaped like a spool of thread. One of 3 replaceable tapes made of leather belt, in which hemispherical depressions are burned (their number depends on the area of ​​crops, and the diameter is 10 - 8 mm). When the seeder moves along the plowed area bicycle chain, stretched between the rear wheel sprocket to the sowing unit reel, rotates the latter. The tape cells in the hopper capture the seeds and send them into the funnel (the diameter of the funnel itself is 56 mm, the diameter of the outlet tube is 28 mm).

Three-wheeled seeder. a – diagram of the seeder (side and top view), b – diagram of the seeding wheel (top and side view); 1 – drive wheel, 2 – sowing device, 3 – frame, 4 – marking wheel, 5 – funnel, 6 – coulter, 7 – seed tube, 8 – reel, 9 – handle, 10 – sprocket, 11 – chain.

From there, the seeds flow by gravity first into the opener and then into the furrow.

You can fit any (fortunately, they now come in different sizes) medicine bottle under it. Seeds are poured into it, the neck is plugged with a stopper, into which the hollow thickened end of a goose feather is passed. Before sowing the seeds, tilt the bottle and shake it gently. The seeds are placed in a furrow prepared in advance in an even line.

Designed for planting potatoes and other crops. It is made from a cutting of arbitrary length. A block 170 - 180 mm long is nailed across the handle, at a distance of 250 mm from the sharpened end.

One person makes holes in certain places, and the other lowers the nodules into them.

The crossbar on the handle does not allow the spike to go deeper into the soil than required, which ensures the same depth of the planting holes.

Its transverse part has a length of 130 - 200 mm and a width of about 100 mm, is made in the form of a shuttle and is placed on the handle. The device is convenient for making furrows for sowing seeds.

Used when planting cabbage seedlings and other vegetable crops. The crutch consists of a handle 1.25 m long, pointed on one side, and a handle, which is also made of wood. The landing process, like using a simple crutch, requires a partner. The first, walking along the ridge, makes holes in the soil, and the second plants seedlings in them.

Watering tools and devices

While watering the beds can be done either with a regular watering can or with an improved one, in the garden this operation turns out to be quite labor-intensive. And there’s no escape: trees and shrubs also want to “drink.” Therefore we will talk about irrigation installations. All homemade installations for irrigation have a significant drawback: too much water consumption. In light of this, gardeners are interested drip irrigation. A similar device is more often used when there are few fruit trees on the site.

Watering cans

For decades, the design of a fairly simple representative gardening equipment remains virtually unchanged. Nevertheless, skilled gardeners are constantly modernizing what, it would seem, cannot be modernized.

In a garden watering can, the mesh nozzle for watering is usually located just above the handle. A piece of metal (or rubber) pipe is used to extend the standard “spout”. Working with an improved watering can is much more convenient: the “telescope” delivers life-giving moisture to the edge of even the widest bed.

Usually, when storing and transporting, the spout of the watering can requires additional space. And it interferes with scooping water from the barrel. The watering can will become more convenient during operation and storage when the spout and body are connected with a corrugated rubber tube. A rope is tied to the mesh attachment and secured to the latch. To prevent the watering can from rusting from remaining moisture, make a hole in its body (closer to the top cover). It is better to store the improved watering can upside down.

A handle in the form of an arc is soldered to the watering can. The quality of watering will significantly improve the transverse tubular nozzle.

The standard mesh is replaced with it. It is much more convenient to work with such a watering can, and in addition, after modernization, its working grip will increase.

The water divider is usually placed on the nozzle of the watering can. IN in this case The fitting of the nozzle and the divider in relation to the nozzle of the watering can is made internal.

Watering can with divider. 1 – watering can body, 2 – pipe with a fender flange, 3 – divider.

The seating surface of the pipe divider can be either conical or cylindrical. The divider is inserted into the pipe until it stops. Thanks to this improvement, water seeping into the gap between the nozzle and the divider is directed along the water breaker collar to the irrigation zone. The watering device reduces water consumption and increases the convenience of using the watering can. When applying liquid fertilizer, the divider is removed, and the solution flows through the nozzle. The collar prevents fertilizer from flowing out of the feeding area through the pipe and watering can.

A standard garden watering can, with 2 handles (top and back) on a cylindrical body, is extremely inconvenient. Firstly, you have to carry a full watering can while holding your hand up, which is quite tiring. Secondly, watering with such a watering can is also inconvenient: the center of gravity shifts as it decreases, and it is impossible to intercept your hands, since their position is fixed.

A watering can with an oval body and a curved handle is much more rational. The design will allow you to occupy only one hand, and as the center of gravity changes, it can be intercepted. This type of watering can is more comfortable to carry than a cylindrical one, and the arc-shaped handle runs along the body.

The most important advantage of this design is the following: the gardener can water the beds with 2 watering cans at once, which significantly reduces the time required to care for the plants. The capacity of the oval watering can varies. The watering can is made from galvanized sheet iron. A hoop is attached to the oval body for strength. Its edge should be slightly lower than the bottom of the watering can. It’s good if the spout is 1.5 times higher than the body. This will make it possible to water plantings located at a great distance.

Or you can make an original attachment for the watering can. To do this, a piece of steel or roofing sheet is cut and bent. With its help, such a nozzle is convenient for watering the ridges liquid fertilizer. In this case, the mesh of the watering can does not become clogged, and the stream from the nozzle is fan-shaped.

As a rule, gardeners are not content with 1 – 2 types of crops grown on the plot. A different plants require various care. The same applies to such a simple operation, at first glance, as watering. There may be only one watering can in a household, but to increase its versatility, you need to at least have a similar set of attachments.

Set of accessories for watering can. 1 – general form, 2 – nozzle with a strainer facing upwards for watering tall plants, 3 – nozzle with a strainer facing forwards for watering plants of medium height, 4 – nozzle for watering with fertilizer solution, 5 – nozzle for watering holes, 6 – attachment for watering can for fine drip irrigation.

A simple and reliable device. Air is supplied into it using hand pump. The device is mounted at the end of a pole 1.5 - 2 m long and is used to process the crowns of fruit trees.

Take the most ordinary canister (capacity 10 - 12 liters). A fitting from a bicycle inner tube is pressed into the handle, to which a hose 1.5 m long is connected. A hose with a sprayer is connected to the bottom of the container. Its end is attached to a pole. When using such a device, safety regulations must be strictly followed. It is strictly forbidden to spray trees with pesticides without using personal protective equipment.

Homemade sprayer. 1 – support rail, 2 – tap, 3 – canister, 4 – pump.

Water in the garden for spraying plants is taken from the main line. For this, from her to garden plot make a branch and place a shut-off valve on it and check valve. From pipes with a diameter of 15 - 20 mm, several taps are cut in for dispensing water and connecting hoses with a sawing tip. The higher the water pressure in the network, the easier the gardener’s work.

Spraying scheme (a) and device for feeding plants (b). 1 – main water supply, 2 – outlet, 3 – shut-off valve, 4 – water tap, 5 – pipeline, 6 – hose, 7 – tip, 8 – check valve.

For spraying, use a proportional dispenser. Its operating principle is quite simple. Reducing the diameter of the pipe (for example, at a faucet) causes a drop in water pressure. By inserting a container with chemicals into this place, turning the tap valve changes the concentration of the solution used for spraying.

Plants on the site are sprayed clean water by connecting the hose to the nearest tap. To feed plantings or protect them from pests, various dispensers are used. They are installed either on the pipeline or next to the tip.

The tank with the solution is attached directly next to the tip (Fig. b). As a rule, all devices are made from scrap materials. In this case, the dispenser is made from old barrel And plastic bag, the dimensions of which slightly exceed the dimensions of the barrel. Scheme of operation: the barrel is disconnected from the water supply using a 3-way tap. The solution is poured into the bag through a funnel. He, through drain valve, displaces water from the barrel.

Once the bag is filled, the tap is opened, and now the water displaces the solution.

Making such a device is not difficult: you just need a rubber hose (about 10 m long) and a tee. Small holes are made in the hose at an equal distance from each other. After this, the hose is rolled into a ring (1 m in diameter) around the barrel fruit tree, and the ends are put on a tee connected through a tap to the water supply. The pressure is given such that streams of water are immediately absorbed into the ground without forming a puddle.

An almost ideal method of watering: using it, you do not need to dig an irrigation ditch, which can harm the roots, or loosen the soil: a crust does not form on it during ring irrigation.

And most importantly, the water is evenly distributed under the crown, without flooding the neck of the tree.

All “landowners” know: mechanized water intake for irrigation is associated with large energy costs, and therefore financial ones. Therefore, the opportunity to reduce energy costs naturally attracts many gardeners.

It is not at all difficult to make a wind-powered water intake installation. To harness wind energy, a wooden riser is placed directly above the well. A rod with an impeller is attached to it on top. This turns out to be the drive shaft. A driven shaft is installed in the well itself, below the water level. The drive is carried out using a porous rubber belt.

The impeller, under the influence of the wind, rotates and drives the belt. He raises water from the well. Water is squeezed out of the belt using special device(it looks like squeezing out an old washing machine), and it ends up in the catch basin. Upper shaft with an impeller, they are mounted on a ring float so that it can turn in the direction of the wind. The belt is made from almost any material, but it must quickly absorb water.

Water supply using wind. 1 – driven shaft, 2 – porous rubber belt, 3 – water collectors, 4 – ring float, 5 – drive shaft, 6 – shaft, 7 – impeller.

A platform is built on a free area and a container is installed on it. Its dimensions depend on the size of the garden (can be from 1 to 10 m3). There is a valve at the bottom of the container to release water.

Next to the large container they place a smaller one - a kind of water clock. It contains a 40 mm thick foam float (or a rubber ball). The water clock is equipped with a release device into which special gaskets are inserted. Such inserts (up to 10 pieces) are made of aluminum. The holes in the inserts vary in diameter: from 0.1 mm to 1.4 mm. Each hole corresponds to a specific watering interval. If you can pour any water into a large container, then only clean water into a small container, otherwise the water clock will become clogged. Water from them, through a calibrated hole, seeps out gradually. Simultaneously with the water level, the float also lowers.

Device for automatic watering . 1 – rod, 2 – stand, 3 – microswitch, 4 – switch.

When it takes a certain position, a simple device (a lever with a weight and a cable) will pull the large-capacity valve up. The drain hole will open and water will flow through the pipes to the plants.

Holes are made in them at certain distances. Water seeps out through them, moistening the soil.

When the water is poured out, the rod lowers and turns on the electric motor using a microswitch. The container is filled, the rod rises and closes the switch on the stand.

Attention! This is an introductory fragment of the book.

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