Craquelure methods. Two-step craquelure in decoupage: secrets of crackle. Reasons for the different sizes and nature of cracks in one-component craquelure

In addition to decoupage - another not very clear word. The story about what it is is in this article.

Craquelure (from French craquelure) is a crack in the paint layer in works of painting. Under natural conditions, such cracks appear over time and are a sign of antiquity. Modern means for decorating various surfaces, they allow you to artificially “age” new objects. In modern painting and decorative arts, there are frequent examples of when the effect of cracking of the paint layer is achieved artificially. This gives the work an “antique” spirit and a certain charm.

Craquelures can be through, i.e. passing through all layers of the pictorial layer, or can arise only in one of the layers; can cover the entire plane of the picture or be located only in certain places. Their sizes can vary from almost imperceptible, very thin, so-called “hairy”, to very impressive.

Cracks, i.e. violations of the integrity of the paint layer, varnish or primer have different character and drawing, and directly depend on the reasons that caused them. Most often, such reasons are violations of the technology of the preparatory and, in fact, painting processes: selection and preparation of the base, preparation of primer and paints, incorrect application of paint layers.

In addition, the cause of craquelure can also be insufficiently professional restoration of a work.

The appearance of cracks in works of art is not inevitable and obligatory.

Craquelure varnish is ordinary dextrin diluted in water, or (in common parlance) printing glue. It is corn starch processed in a special way. An approximate recipe is as follows: dry starch 125-150 g, water 875-850 ml.

Dry starch is mixed with a small amount of water, the rest of the water is added, then boiled for an hour while stirring in a boiling water bath until a transparent mass is obtained. The finished thickener is filtered through a fine sieve. Doesn't last long. It turns out to be a one-component crackle varnish - the only question is whether you have access to printing glue, but they say dextrin is sold in building materials and chemical stores.

Craquelure technique using white wheat dextrin. Formula: 40 grams of dextrin plus 18cc boiling water. (A tablespoon equals 17cc). Add boiling water to the dextrin powder and dissolve to the consistency of liquid yogurt. Keep in a water bath, not on fire, while you do the work. For well-dried, completed work, i.e. painted surface plus decoupage, apply quite thick layer glitter varnish on water based. Let dry. Apply the prepared dextrin with a brush in a thick layer, without worrying that one stroke will overlap the other. Let it dry naturally for an hour, i.e. Do not use a hairdryer under any circumstances. Then apply the patina and then remove any excess.

The Crackle technique is divided into two main types:

1. C creating cracks by superimposing two craquelure varnishes with different properties on top of each other. These are so-called two-component varnishes from one manufacturer.

These could be, for example: aging varnish(first and third layers) and craquelure varnish(second layer). IN in this case finishing varnish coating will give the surface a golden brown hue.

This is a special craquelure paper for decoupage.

Varnish for the first layer using the “Crackle” technique can easily be found in art stores; its name may be one of the following: “varnish for giving paintings an old look”, “varnish for patination”, “patina for decoupage”, etc. The varnish should Apply in an even layer with a flat, wide brush, for example a synthetic or bristle brush. Ideally, it would be a soft, thick synthetic brush.

As soon as the first layer of varnish dries and reaches the state of “stickiness, but not dirty” (not earlier than 30-40 minutes), it is necessary to apply a second layer of varnish, which is called craquelure, with another brush with the same characteristics. The thicker the second layer, the more pronounced the cracks will be. Here you also need to ensure the uniformity of the coating.

After applying the second layer of varnish, the surface can be dried with a hairdryer. At this point, characteristic cracks will begin to appear. After the surface has completely dried, the craquelure is rubbed with various grouts: special composition, so-called bitumen from a series of patination products; dark oil paint; gold powder or dry pastel powder of any color to create a contrast with the base of the work. The grout is applied with a rag swab or a regular dishwashing sponge.

Excess grout can be removed with another swab or sponge soaked in linen or sunflower oil, and then wipe dry with a cloth. The cracks obtained by this method are quite fragile, so the resulting beauty must be fixed with varnish (third layer). To do this, you can use the patina varnish that was used to apply the first layer, then the work will take on an even more golden-brown appearance of an aged object. Or you can limit yourself to the usual transparent acrylic topcoat varnish.

But what to do if you absolutely do not need to give your piece of furniture a dark patina, but still want to get those treasured cracks? If you expect to get cracks, for example, on a white surface to be decorated while maintaining this white, you can use clear, colorless varnish to create a crackle effect. On modern market Hobby departments offer special two-component clear varnishes for creating craquelures using decoupage technique.

2. And the use of one special varnish or wax for the crackle effect, when applied, the pre-painted surface is covered with colored textured cracks.

The same effect can occur if, after drying, a layer of craquelure varnish is applied new layer acrylic paint. Cracks will begin to form in about 10 minutes. The annotations for these types of products contain explanations regarding the technique for creating craquelures.

To obtain the strongest color effect, colors contrasting with each other are chosen for pre-painting.

Every craftswoman, having mastered the basics of decoupage, strives for something more complex, dreams of special effects... The first on the path of each of us is an insidious macho named "Crackelure" - a capricious and selective guy - sometimes the air humidity is not right for him, then the surface is let down, then the varnish , then paint.... I will write only about my own sad and happy experiences, only about those who personally met on my way.

So, episode 1: SIR ONE-STEP.

At first general principles work: applied between two layers of contrasting paints, the pattern depends on what was applied - a sponge or a brush (see photo).

It is imperative to take into account that:

- when applying top paint, you cannot go over the same place twice (cracks appear very quickly and the paint can “clog” them);
- Upper layer The paint should ONLY be matte (not glossy or shiny/metallic) - then there will be no cracks.

The size of the cracks depends on the thickness of the craquelure layer: the thicker the layer, the larger the cracks. Sequence of work: paint - craquelure - paint. For reverse decoupage: craquelure - paint - paint.

1. Krakelee Medium by Marabu. Quite unpretentious, cracks always appear.

We dry the layer of paint, dry the craquelure until it’s “tack-tacky” - it doesn’t spread and comes off your finger, but you don’t need to poke it often to check - there will be traces, a contrasting layer of paint. After complete drying, the top can be coated with any varnish.

2. Craquelure varnish No. 742 (article No. 5920742) Medium, available in the IDEA series of materials. Water based.

Why it’s good: without any primer, it can be applied to any surface (canvas, paper, cardboard, wood, plaster, plaster, stone, fabric, plastic, ceramics, metal/excluding galvanized iron

The varnish is applied directly to the surface to be decorated (without the first layer of paint), i.e. the color of the resulting cracks is the color of the surface being decorated.

Apply a not too thick layer and also dry until tack-free.

3. In the same series, varnish No. 743 - the same jar, but with a different number. We paint, dry, apply an even layer of varnish with a flat brush, after 30 minutes we apply a layer of contrasting paint.

4. Crackle Medium from Folk Art Plaid 695. Moody. You need to monitor drying very carefully. The second coat of paint is applied when there are no puddles (wet marks). The cracks appear immediately.

The main thing is not to overdry. But it’s quite difficult to catch this moment: If it dries out, there are no cracks; if it’s not dry, the brush pulls the varnish along with it.

5. Varnish Creal Crackle Holland. UNIVERSAL: it is possible to obtain “one-step” and “two-step” sample cracks depending on the application. Consists of two components (1 and 2).

For one-step: paint, step 1 apply thin layer, wait until it dries (min. 30-40), apply a contrasting layer of paint, let the product dry again: THE MAIN THING here is NOT TO OVERDRY! Next, apply step 2 perpendicular to the first step.

You can speed up the drying of the varnish with a hairdryer. Using this varnish is NOT DIFFICULT, the cracks are clear, suitable for beginners.

6. Craquelure varnish "Cracking Varnish" from DECOLA. production St. Petersburg. Very good. Water-based, used on various surfaces (canvas, cardboard, glass, wood, leather). The product is kept until the first layer of paint has completely dried - at least 1 hour. Apply varnish in one direction with a brush or sponge

Apply a contrasting coat of paint after 2 hours. This varnish is afraid when it is coated with a water-based varnish (like Obninsky) - it gives yellowness and lumps. There are no problems with alkyd varnishes.

7. Craquelure varnish "Cracking Varnish" from Tair. All characteristics are the same as the previous varnish. The 2nd layer of paint is also applied after 2 hours; to speed up the process, the second layer of paint can be dried with a hairdryer

8. Craquelure varnish from "ANTIK-technic" Its characteristics and behavior are similar to 1. The movement of the brush determines the direction of the cracks. Dry until “no wet spots”.

Now from folk art"craquelure using improvised means."

9. Lyubov Samoshenkova wrote about PVA and showed it wonderfully, but I want to show the second method.

Paint - dry. For the second layer of paint, mix PVA glue and acrylic paint(50x50).

Apply it to the object with a brush, dry it a little naturally (10-15 minutes), then dry it with a hairdryer.

10. Egg white. They also know a lot. Apply the first layer, dry well, if the surface is porous (wood, for example), apply varnish so that the protein does not absorb, and dry. Next, apply a thick layer of egg white in a chaotic manner and dry naturally until completely dry.

Do not use a hairdryer! Next - a contrasting layer of paint, hold the brush “lying down”, apply it very carefully so that one stroke does not overlap the other. Dries naturally. I always succeed in this method, but I don’t see the advisability of using it.

11. Washing gel. I read it on the Internet and was not too lazy to apply it. The result is below. The more concentrated the gel, the better; apply quite thickly with a flat brush. On top - HIGHLY diluted paint (on the not dried gel) with a brush "lying", dry.

It takes a VERY long time to dry, a hair dryer does not improve it. It took me 24 hours for THIS to dry.

12. And this is 9% table vinegar. The result is like over-dried craquelure varnish applied with a sponge. But once they wrote on the Internet... Apply a second layer of paint to the well-dried first layer of paint and dry it (but not completely). Soak a sponge in vinegar and gently apply it to blot. The paint is peeling. But, in my opinion, it’s a stretch to call THIS craquelure - the effect of curdled milk - the mesh is extremely thin - almost an imprint of a sponge pattern.

End of the first episode. To be continued. In the following series, see: two-step insidious and beautiful, grouting methods, etc.

Hello everyone who watched to the end. I really hope it will be useful to someone!

Craquelure (from the French word “craquelure”) is the name given to cracks in a layer of paint or varnish on works of art. IN modern design has become very popular artificial aging surface of interior items, which is also called “craquelure”. Master classes on creating various products with a unique antique charm are quite expensive. Knowing the basics of such decor techniques, anyone can independently create unique interior items.

How can you get craquelure?

Master classes of novice interior designers most often use special varnishes to create “aged” items. That's what they're called - craquelure. To emphasize and highlight the cracks formed on the surface of the object, ink or pastel is specially rubbed into the varnish. Compositions intended for patination give a remarkable effect.

The craquelure technique, despite all the new compositions, still cannot compete with natural cracks in works of art. That is why experts can easily distinguish the original antique item from fake.

Tools and materials for applying craquelure

Craquelure can be applied to almost any surface. Master classes on varnishing glass, wood, ceramics, metal or paper, despite some similarities, still have certain differences. That is why for each of these types of materials the most appropriate technique for executing a given design should be used.

To apply this decorative coating you will need following tools and special formulations:

Synthetic brush;

Hair dryer for drying the product;

Primer;

Acrylic paints (preferably in contrasting tones);

One-component craquelure and finishing varnish.

In the absence of expensive compounds, you can use available materials: egg whites, table vinegar, washing gel, gelatin. There are several ways to apply it to various surfaces. Below are the most popular ones.

Single-phase craquelure

The most popular is one-step craquelure. Master classes on how to create this simple covering, also called single-phase, are the most popular. It is used to create a surface with spectacular contrasting cracks. To do this you will need one-component craquelure and acrylic finishing varnishes and a hair dryer.

A primer is applied to the thoroughly cleaned surface of the item (selected depending on the material from which the item is made). To speed up the drying process of the composition, use a hairdryer. Acrylic paint is applied to the dried primer. It is this that will be visible in the resulting cracks. After it dries, craquelure varnish is evenly applied on top. It must be remembered that the thicker its layer, the larger the resulting cracks. When the varnish dries a little and does not stick to the fingers (without losing its stickiness), the main (second) acrylic paint is applied to it. After about 10 minutes, cracks will begin to appear on the surface of the object.

The dried paint is carefully coated with finishing varnish. This coating is called “one-step craquelure”. A decorating master class using this technique can be repeated even by a person far from design and art. This finishing method is excellent for decorating porcelain and wooden interior items, jewelry boxes, and photo frames. By honing your skills in this technique, you can create unique products.

Decoupage. Craquelure (master class)

Another technique for applying such coatings, called decoupage, is no less popular. Its essence is that various pictures cut from napkins are glued onto a craquelure mesh of cracks. Some experts perform decoupage in reverse order. In this case, the craquelure is applied to the pictures already glued to the surface of the object.

To work, you need the product itself, two tones, PVA glue, cut out and selected designs, acrylic varnish, art brushes, and a hairdryer.

Stages of making craquelure using decoupage technique

Cleaning and degreasing the surface of an object using alcohol.

Applying a uniform layer to the surface water-based paint using an art brush. Dry until completely dry.

Apply a layer of PVA glue to the surface using brush movements from top to bottom or from left to right.

After the object has dried, a contrasting (second) paint is applied. The movements of the brush should be the same as when applying glue.

Without waiting for the paint to dry, a stream of hot air from a hair dryer is directed onto the surface of the object. Under its influence, the coating will begin to crack. The longer the product dries, the rougher and deeper the cracks will be.

The item is decorated with napkins using glue. The dried product is coated with several layers of acrylic clear varnish.

This craquelure looks good on dishes, flower pots, vases, trays.

Two-step craquelure

Master classes on this technique are a little more complicated than the previous ones. To work you will need acrylic varnish, art brushes, gum arabic (a viscous liquid that hardens in air), shellac bitumen, gold or silver powder. Applying craquelure consists of the following steps:

The cleaned surface of the object is covered with 2 layers of acrylic varnish. After it dries, a generous layer of shellac is applied to it. The thicker it is, the larger and rougher the cracks will be. To obtain a barely noticeable openwork mesh, a thin layer of shellac will be enough. When applying this substance, possible smudges should be avoided, since this error is almost impossible to correct.

When the surface of the shellac dries slightly, but is still sticky, apply gum arabic (the consistency of liquid sour cream) on top of it in a thick layer. Light movements fingertips, this substance is rubbed over the entire surface. After about 3 minutes, the gum arabic will begin to stick to your hands. At this time, the “massage” movements must be stopped.

When gum arabic dries, cracks will form on the surface. To emphasize them, bitumen is rubbed into them. Then golden or silver powder is applied along the cracks.

The finished product is coated with finishing varnish.

Craquelure on glass objects

The different ones look very impressive glass products, decorated using this technique. The entire process of working with this material is practically no different from the above methods. At the same time, most needlewomen prefer to use single-phase craquelure on glass.

To work, you will need the object itself, acrylic paint in 2 contrasting tones, varnish, a synthetic art brush, and craquelure varnish. The glass surface on which the decor will be applied is degreased with alcohol. Then it is primed acrylic varnish. After it dries, apply paint of one tone (it will show through in the cracks). After this, craquelure varnish is applied to the surface. When it dries a little, but has not yet lost its stickiness, the product is coated with the main (second) acrylic paint. After cracks appear and the composition dries, varnish is applied to the surface.

Craquelure on a wooden surface

This decorative technique is most often used for finishing old furniture, which can become the highlight of the interior. In this case, you can use both one- and two-step craquelure. A master class on wood is practically no different from the above surface treatment techniques. The main conditions for successful and other items using the craquelure technique is their thorough cleaning of old paint and varnish coatings and puttying damage.

Features of applying craquelure

Like any type of design, this one also has a few secrets that can make the job easier. The craquelure technique, which anyone can master, allows you to get the job done quickly and without any defects. To do this, you should remember the following techniques:

An artistic brush should only be synthetic.

After the craquelure varnish has dried, the cracks are often rubbed over with “silver”, “gold powder”, or dark-colored oil paint. After this, the remnants of these products are removed from the surface. vegetable oil and wipe it dry. The processed product is coated with acrylic varnish. This technique allows you to turn even a simple object into a work of art.

Do not shake the varnish before applying to avoid the formation of bubbles. The work area must be free of dust and thoroughly ventilated.

Cracks on the surface are in the same direction as the movement of the brush. To obtain the so-called craquelure mesh, use a sponge or make very small strokes.

Simple wall decoration has long been of no interest to anyone. Became firmly in fashion decorative plaster, tiles, wallpaper from liquid glass and bamboo and other, no less interesting, materials. To beautifully and unusually decorate the interior of your home, you can make craquelure on the walls with your own hands - an original and not too difficult to make antique decor.

Wall decoration using the craquelure technique is a coating with cracks through which the base tone shines through. To create this effect, use special types plasters, acrylic paints and varnishes. These materials do not contain toxic substances and combine well with other types of finishes, but require careful surface preparation and proper application.

To decorate the walls with your own hands you will need:

It is better to choose paints and grouts contrasting colors so that the pattern on the surface appears brighter. The shape and location of the cracks depends on the method of applying the varnish: when using a brush, deep parallel grooves appear, when using a sponge, the cracks look like a fine mesh.

Varnishes are divided into one-component and two-component; the first ones have more simple technology application and dry faster. The use of two-component varnish requires more care and more time, so a hair dryer or fan is often used to speed up the drying process.

Applying craquelure is the final stage of interior design, because such a surface is very easy to damage and difficult to restore. Therefore, before finishing need to finish everything renovation work, lay wiring and other communications, clear the room of construction debris and dust.

In the process of preparing the walls you will need:

wide and narrow spatulas;
primer mixture;
starting putty;
sandpaper;
brush;
clean rag.

Decorative plaster is always applied to a flat and durable surface, so preparation begins by removing the old coating.

Wallpaper must be removed, because moisture from the plaster will soak the glue, and the wallpaper will begin to peel away from the wall. The paint is removed if there are peeling areas, swelling or cracks. If the wall under the paint is smooth and the coating adheres very firmly, there is no need to remove it.

Walls that are too uneven and cracked are freed from old decoration, wash off the whitewash and plaster to the base and fill all cracks with putty and smooth out defects. Dried areas are sanded sandpaper to remove the slightest irregularities. Then the entire wall is covered with a layer of primer, paying special attention to joints and corners, and completely puttied.

The putty layer should be about 2 mm; too thick a coating will not adhere well and may come off when exposed to craquelure varnish.

When the putty has dried, the wall should be sanded again and wiped off dust with a clean cloth. If the ceiling is being finished at the same time, you need to complete it, install ceiling moldings or make a different design for the joints between the ceiling and walls. And only after this you can start decorating using the craquelure technique.

Technology of applying one-component craquelure

To avoid deformation of the new coating, the room must have a stable temperature and low humidity. Drafts are also undesirable, so it is recommended to close all vents and windows. Because this type finishing requires some skill, first you need to try it on a piece of plywood. To do this, take dense plywood 3-5 mm thick, prime it and dry it. To make it more convenient to work, you can use some kind of stand.

For light cracks, choose beige, cream, silver or blue color. Veins with a metallic or pearl effect, which is obtained by using azure and a special varnish for decoration, look very beautiful.

The paint should be applied in a thin, even layer, without streaks or thickening. It takes 4 to 6 hours for the paint to dry, depending on the room temperature.

The next layer is a one-component craquelure varnish or primer for craquelure. The application process has its own secrets: if you spread the varnish with a roller uniform movements vertically or horizontally, the cracks will be located in the same direction.

You can diversify the pattern with alternating strokes in different sides. The depth of the cracks depends on the thickness of the applied layer - the more varnish, the deeper the cracks. Depending on the type of varnish, drying takes from 40 minutes to 2 hours; the primer for craquelure dries for 24 hours.

Venetian or structural plaster is applied to a dry surface with a wide spatula. Movements should be light, without pressure, in a chaotic or thoughtful manner. Instead of plaster, you can use acrylic paint in a contrasting color to the base. Apply it with a foam roller using even movements. The thickness of the plaster should not exceed 2 mm, the paint layer should not exceed 1 mm.

Since cracking begins within 5-10 minutes, the coating must be applied very quickly. The walls have large area, therefore it is recommended to cover the surface with vertical stripes of equal width.

You should work very carefully at the joints to avoid the formation of smudges and layers, as well as pulling of the material. Complete cracking of the coating will take about a day, after which the walls are treated protective composition. Painted surfaces are covered with decorative varnish using a sponge.; You can also use natural wax - this will give the finishing layer additional attractiveness.

If used as decoration structural plaster, you need to sand it over the entire area with sandpaper, and then use a brush to sweep the dust out of the cracks. When sanding, do not put too much pressure on the walls or sand some areas longer than others. Spread with a brush protective varnish over the surface, rub the excess along the veins and remove with a sponge. The varnish can be colored or transparent, with a silver, gold or pearlescent effect.

Venetian plaster is also sanded, wiped from dust, and then covered with wax using a sponge.. You can use thick wax, but it is more convenient to work with diluted wax: 8 measures of water are required for 2 measures of wax. All excess is carefully removed with a rubber spatula, and after 15 minutes the coating can be polished with a soft cloth.

Application of two-component varnish

This method of decoration has a more complex technology, but gives amazing results. The prepared surface is painted in desired color and dried. Next comes the layer craquelure varnish, which is applied as thinly and evenly as possible. When the varnish hardens and becomes completely transparent, apply a second layer. Again you need to wait until the surface is dry, and then you can cover the wall finishing layer paint or plaster.

Finishing materials dry out very quickly and, when joining adjacent strips, they can drag on the brush, destroying the future texture. To avoid this, joining the plaster must be done within 5 minutes; for paint, the time is limited to 1 minute. This finish takes several days to dry; you can speed up the process with the help of a fan. If you use a hairdryer to dry it, the cracks will appear deeper.

You can grout the walls after the top layer has completely dried. Used for grouting oil paint dark colors, dry colored pastels or gold powder. The product is scooped onto a sponge and rubbed into the recesses with gentle movements. To remove excess, take a cloth soaked in vegetable oil, and finally wipe the entire wall with a dry and clean cloth. To fix the texture, a fixative or transparent varnish is needed.

Crepa (craquelure) - decorative paint

Such walls also need to be taken care of correctly. It is very easy to damage the craquelure; just catch it with furniture or hit it hard. Do not wet the coating excessively, wash it with abrasive substances or clean it chemicals. Allowed wet cleaning no more than once a week, and you can only use soft tissues And clean water. If the texture is damaged, only an experienced craftsman can restore the coating imperceptibly.