When designing a house, how to install a sewer pipe. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house: diagram and rules for the location of the main structural elements. Two types of local sewage treatment facilities for a private home

To make life at the dacha comfortable, it is necessary to carry out basic communications - water supply and sewerage. On suburban areas There is often no centralized sewerage network, so each house owner solves the problem independently. Periodic use of the home does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment; it is enough to install a septic tank.

Often in dachas, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped with a plumbing system, this option is fully justified, but when installing plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer system in a country house with your own hands in various ways (from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping), and also demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photos and video instructions.

The sewerage system must be built in accordance with the developed project, including external and internal wiring pipelines.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient option is to install a collector consisting of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

1. Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country house. You can dig a pit manually or using an excavator.
2. A sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed at the bottom of the pit. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
3. It is necessary to install formwork made of boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
4. It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe cuttings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer main and the overflow pipe between the sections.
5. The formwork is filled with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume using a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at one time.
6. In the first compartment, the bottom is filled with concrete, a sealed section is formed, which will serve as a sump. Here the wastewater will be separated into large solid fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that flows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
7. The second compartment is made without a bottom; it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings 1–1.5 meters in diameter, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter the wastewater.
8. An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an angle of 30 mm on linear meter. The height of the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made, which provides better cleaning.
9. The ceiling of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made ones are used reinforced concrete slabs. Be sure to install a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and the hood. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump tank of such a system will be cleaned every 2–3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil on the site is clayey or the groundwater is located very close to the surface, it will not be possible to install a septic tank of this design. You can settle on a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and secured to a concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment station. Local stations are convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for suburban buildings large area. The installation and commissioning of the device is carried out by specialists; the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

Laying the external main

It is necessary to lay a pipeline from the point where the sewer pipe exits the house to the septic tank. The main must lie at a slope that ensures the drainage of contaminated water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes must be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the depth of the trench is small, provide thermal insulation of the line.

The average depth for laying a sewer system is 1 meter; in warm regions it is enough to go down to 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If it is necessary to make a turn, this place will be equipped with an inspection well. For the main line, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm; their connection must be airtight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of wastewater, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. These can be two/three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in volume. In two-chamber septic tanks, the septic tank occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber septic tanks ½. Here, preliminary wastewater treatment takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final wastewater treatment takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. In this way, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps avoid systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in Wastewater ah, in addition to organic matter, there are also insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a structure will also have to be pumped out periodically to get rid of the sediment accumulating in the sump. This can be done with a fecal/drainage pump. The frequency of septic tank maintenance depends entirely on the size/volume/composition of wastewater.

To independently construct such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The water consumption rate per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of household members, you get daily norm water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m3. In this case, you need a septic tank with a depth and length of 3 m, and a width of 2 m. By multiplying all sides, you get 18 m3. The minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe is 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually this sediment becomes denser and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be cleaned immediately. You should resort to cleaning a septic tank quite rarely. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge in 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewer equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological products with special enzymes appeared that convert sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment facility.

Bacteria need to be “fed” with oxygen to make their work more efficient. You can buy containers for a septic tank or make your own.

Before installing the finished septic tank structure, it is necessary to determine a suitable location for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house must be directed directly to the septic tank. It is better to avoid turning the pipeline, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab/screed. The dimensions of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

Top part The septic tank must rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water will flood the device’s equipment in the spring.

After constructing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done using cables placed in the ribs of the septic tank. In this matter you cannot do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to the communications, having previously dug trenches for the pipes, laid a sand cushion and installed the pipes. They should be laid at a slight slope - 1–2 cm per linear meter. The pipes are laid to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After this, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem you will need a polypropylene cord and construction hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, you can insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the panel to a separate machine. It needs to be placed in a special corrugated pipe and place in the same trench as the sewer pipe. There are special holes with marks on the septic tank. The cable is connected to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your region is high enough, then insulate the septic tank. The insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After connecting the electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be filled with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure during the process of filling the soil, you need to pour water into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the level of backfilling of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with the finished plastic autonomous system to clean wastewater, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. Great inexpensive material to implement the plan - concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank made of reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

• Affordable price.
• Unpretentiousness during operation.
• Possibility of performing work without the help of specialists.

The following disadvantages deserve attention:

1. The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure completely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
2. The need to clean the chambers of solid waste using sewage disposal equipment.

You can reduce the frequency of the need to pump out the septic tank if you use bioactivators. They reduce the amount of solid fractions by accelerating the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is carried out incorrectly, the septic tank will not be airtight, which will increase the risk of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be sealed, so this disadvantage of the system is rightly called conditional.

The design of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1–2 chambers designed for settling and purifying wastewater and a filtration field/filter well.

If there are few people living in your house and a minimum of plumbing fixtures are connected to the sewer system, then you can easily get by with a septic tank consisting of one septic tank and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have a lot of household members and many devices are connected to the sewer system, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must accommodate a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that to build a septic tank for 5 people you will need a septic tank of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that to install a septic tank in this particular case you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate septic tank chambers and a filter well. This work, of course, can be done manually, but it takes a long time and is very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earth-moving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the site where the settling chambers are installed must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of untreated wastewater penetrating into the ground. Before the beginning concrete works, part of the bottom of the pit should be drained to install settling tanks by laying a sand cushion on it in a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a solid bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires preparation of the base. Under it you need to make a cushion of sand, crushed stone and gravel at least 50 cm thick.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. Performing these tasks manually is very difficult. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is labor-intensive. And the bottom will have to be filled after installing the last ring, which will entail whole line inconvenience. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Usually the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater reliability of the structure they can be fastened metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not be damaged due to soil movement.

Now it’s time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to connect pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they need to be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. WITH outside tanks must be treated with coating or weld-on waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders that are installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water entering will be minimized.

Installation of slabs/backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, which have holes for installing sewer hatches. Ideally, backfilling of the pit should be done with soil containing a high percentage of sand. But if this is not possible, the pit can be filled with soil previously removed from it.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The system for treating wastewater from barrels, like a similar structure made of reinforced concrete, can be two- or three-chamber. Sewage will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The operating principle of this device is similar to the design of reinforced concrete rings.

For arrangement autonomous sewerage According to the principle of the purification system, any containers can be used. These could be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have a number of advantages over their metal counterparts:

1. A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
2. The barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of wastewater. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
3. The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at a permanent location.
4. Plastic does not require additional processing, unlike metal.
5. The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of penetration dirty waters into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fastened when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are attached with cables to concrete base(it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). To avoid crushing plastic barrels, backfilling of soil should be done extremely carefully.

For seasonal use, sewerage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for sewerage installations is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a lid, you can use an appropriately sized piece of wood or one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig a corresponding pit, which also needs to be concreted - the walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they are treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, installing them as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not The best decision, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. And such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

To install a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory-made polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 liter barrels, you will need the following materials:

• geotextiles – 80 m2;
• sewer pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
• crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m3;
• corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º – 4 pcs.;
• plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l – 2 pcs.;
• coupling, flange – 2 pcs.;
• wooden peg – 10 pcs.;
• Y-shaped sewer tee – 4 pcs.;
• building level;
• drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m – 2 pcs.;
• epoxy two-component sealant – 1 pc.;
• glue for PVC – 1 pc.;
• plumbing tape – 1 pc.

Tools you will need:

• Shovel.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.

For a cottage/small country house If used sparingly, standard plastic barrels will do. Installing such a cleaning system is not difficult. If you do not pour black waste into the sewer, the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If there is a toilet in the house, then the sewerage system will have to be cleaned regularly by calling a sewer service.

For private houses permanent residence there won't be enough barrels. For sewerage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes/tanks/tanks. The process of installing them in the ground is no different from installing barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewerage system to the house:

• there is a need for a large depth of the pipeline;
• On the way to the septic tank you will need to install an inspection well.

A sewage system made from metal barrels does not require large financial investments And complex work on installation. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed to transfer liquid from one barrel to another and transfer to the filtration fields/drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located lower than the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated using polystyrene foam. After this, the pit and septic tank are filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels do not last long, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Scheme

Living in your private house without sewerage will be at least uncomfortable.

As a rule, its installation takes place during the construction stages. Although there are exceptions.

And sewerage for a private house, as the craftsmen correctly note, is most often installed after the building is built.

Schemes and types

IN big houses where there are many rooms (bathrooms, toilets, kitchen, etc.), a scheme with at least two septic tanks is usually used.

If it is possible to join the central sewer system, then this should be done, despite the subsequent hefty fees.

If not, you will have to build an autonomous sewer system.

Internal sewerage: diagram and specifics

When creating a project, you need to take into account the premises that need sewerage. They are located in one location on each floor. With this layout it is easier to lay pipes. Although a personal project is created for each home.

Here you can create the scheme yourself. Of course, this will not be a professional and detailed development, like that of specialists. But if you act wisely, you can use it to lay a pipeline and decide on the right amount equipment and materials.

A house plan is a must here. Identify positions for the sewer pipeline (STP), riser(s) and all plumbing fixtures. On the diagram, indicate the shaped elements for the pipeline and the distances from these elements to the riser and plumbing fixtures. Decide on the required number of connecting components. This work is carried out on each floor.

Advice: be sure to calculate how many pipes of different diameters and connecting components are needed.

Required diameters:

1. For a riser or heating system, as well as an outlet block for draining wastewater coming from the bathroom - 10–11 cm.
2. For wastewater from kitchen and bathroom a pipe of 5 cm is used.
3. Turns in the sewer should be made with two elbows. The angle of their position is 45°. This will help prevent blockages.

Material

Typically these are pipes made of cast iron, polypropylene or PVC. The first ones are considered standard. They cope with impressive loads. Their durability and reliability is amazing.

But today, products made from the other two specified materials are becoming increasingly famous. Their cost is more attractive, and installation is much easier.

Polypropylene products are purchased very often. Buyers like their flexibility and modest weight, and resistance to high wastewater temperatures.

It is important to know: It is worth noting that products made of PVC and polypropylene are installed only inside the house. Cast iron analogues can be laid outside.

Pipes made of all these materials will last a very long time if used correctly.

Kinds

Typically, according to the method of operation, sewerage is divided into mixed and separate. Most often, the first type works in private homes.

Types of sewerage according to the method of wastewater disposal: gravity and pressure. The second requires enormous expenses and effort. Therefore, the popularity of the first is much higher.

Thus, in private houses, usually mixed gravity sewerage is installed.

Installation

An assistant is required for this work. Work takes place with polypropylene pipes. Their diameters are 5 and 10 cm. Other necessary things: revisions, tees and elbows, as well as sleeves, clamps for fastening these pipes, rubber cuffs, glue.

The sleeves are placed in those areas where the system intersects the walls or ceiling. Rubber cuffs are applied to the connection areas. And powerful insulation is done there using plumbing sealant.

The pipes are laid with some slope. These are the requirements of SNiP. For this case, the slope is 2–3%. It is largely determined by the diameter of the pipe. The percentage here is the slope calculated in cm/1 line. meter. For pipes with a more modest diameter, the slope is 3%. Only by following this rule can a functioning internal sewage system be installed efficiently.

And a slope of less than 2% and more than 3% is also unacceptable. In the first situation, solid elements will remain on the walls of the pipes, and a blockage will form. In the second case, the drainage flows in these pipes will gain too much speed, and the wastewater will be divided into fractions, and solid elements will settle.

To connect such pipes, glue or rubber seals are used.

For your information: For work you will also need a soldering iron and a hammer drill.

The work starts from the outlet - the area where the internal and external sewers converge. By starting this way, you will prevent these systems from becoming inconsistent. The outlet is installed through the foundation. If it is carried out at a depth below the freezing depth of the soil in your area, then the pipe must be thermally insulated. Otherwise, the outlet will stiffen, and the sewage system will only be able to work in warm weather.

If there is no outlet hole in the foundation, you need to create one.

The required diameter of the sleeve is 13 cm. The sleeve protrudes from each side of the base by at least 15 cm. The hole and installation of the sleeve proceeds with a slope of 2% for the external sewerage next to the septic tank. The diameter of the outlet must coincide with the diameter of the riser.

The best position for a riser is in the bathroom. So the outlet section for eliminating waste from the toilet will be short. The following trend applies here: the larger the diameter of the outlet section and plumbing. device, the closer its position to the riser.

The laying method is a personal matter. You can make installations in boxes, in walls, you can work on open method. For installation of pipes with a riser, oblique tees are used. If your diagram contains a point where the outlets from the shower, bathtub and sink converge, then installation of a collector pipe is needed there. Its diameter is 10 cm.

To protect your home from unpleasant odors, install water seals. The inspection must be mounted on each riser. Each turn of the sewer must end with cleaning. So, if the sewer is clogged, it will be easier to clean it.

The riser continues upward in the form of a fan pipe. First, a revision is placed at the point of its installation. After which this pipe is led to the roof. Its combination with home ventilation is not allowed.

The exit must exceed the ridge of the roof, at least 70 cm from the roof and at a distance of 4 m from the windows. Ventilation, chimney and the exhaust pipe itself must differ in height.

Having installed the internal sewerage system, it must be thoroughly drained. clean water. This way the tightness of all connections is tested.

External sewerage

Such a sewer system is a network of pipes from the outlet block to the septic tank or treatment station. The pipes here are laid underground.

The pipes must have impressive rigidity and withstand the impact of the soil. And it’s also better to lay pipes bright color, to make them easier to notice in depth. The diameter of such pipes is 11 cm.

There are different types of external ventilation. The most primitive are cesspools and storage systems where wastewater is collected. Today, preference is increasingly given to various septic tanks and total treatment stations.

Two-chamber septic tank

Types of septic tanks:

1. Two-chamber.
2. Three-chamber.
3. With biofilter.
4. With one chamber and soil purification.

The septic tank is selected based on:

1. The needs of all residents of the house.
2. The number of these residents.
3. Type of residence: permanent or temporary.
4. Approximate water consumption. This refers to how much water each resident spends daily. The number of plumbing fixtures in the house and whether there are household appliances are also important here.
5. Level groundwater on your territory.
6. Parameters of the territory itself. Here the areas for treatment equipment are calculated.
7. Soil type.
8. The climate in your area.

System example:

Which septic tank or treatment plant you should buy is also a matter of your budget. It also wouldn’t hurt to consult with experts.

It is also important to take into account some criteria regarding the location of such equipment:

1. The garden and septic tank must be separated by at least 8 m.
2. Any water source and septic tank are separated by at least 20 m.
3. A residential building and a septic tank are separated by at least 5 m.

The main dilemma in organizing external sewerage is the competent choice of treatment technology. Excavation and the gasket do not cause any particular difficulties.

As for the general scheme of external sewerage, it necessarily includes:

• a system of trays where waste is concentrated;
• waste disposal channels to the disposal point;
• settling tank (cesspool).

Algorithm for installing external sewerage:

1. Creating a trench. It connects house drains to a septic tank. Trench slope: 2 cm/1 m of pipe in the direction of the cesspool.
2. The bottom of the trench is covered with a sand cushion. Layer -10–15 cm.
3. On this pillow right up to storage tank pipeline is being laid.
4. The connecting point of the pipe with the septic tank is sealed: the pipe is laid along an oval of cords. The cord is treated with grease.

Requirements for sewerage in a private house

1. For installation, use materials with the required parameters.
2. Make a diagram taking into account all the necessary factors.
3. Do not use low quality pipes.
4. Do not clog your drains with heavy waste.
5. Design the sewer system at the same time as designing the house itself.
6. Install sewerage during construction stages. This is the best option. If it was not followed, the solution methods have already been outlined above.

How to make a sewer system in a private house, see the tips in the following video:

When designing and installing internal sewerage for a private home, no one is immune from mistakes that can lead to unpredictable consequences, from the appearance of an unpleasant odor to complete inoperability of the system. Let's consider in this article the concept of internal sewerage in a private house: design and installation rules + analysis common mistakes arising in the process of all this.

General characteristics of a modern internal sewerage system

Today, the construction of private suburban housing is experiencing a real boom. Therefore, there was a need to create a convenient and modern system sewer system that I could install a common person without a construction education. Such a system should have good performance, since the number of plumbing fixtures producing domestic wastewater increased significantly. Indeed, with the advent of automatic washing machines, dishwashers, Jacuzzis and showers, the water consumption of an ordinary household increased to 200 liters per person per day.

An increase in the number of plumbing fixtures leads to a significant complication of the pipeline networks themselves. Fortunately, today they use PVC pipes, which are supplied with auxiliary fittings, with the help of which the installation of the pipeline becomes impossible more difficult to manufacture crafts from children's construction set. All these details provide O-rings, which can be easily replaced if necessary.

Internal sewerage is a set of plastic pipes and fittings for their connection, which serve to drain wastewater from plumbing fixtures. The devices themselves are equipped with siphons necessary to prevent odor from penetrating into the premises. Pipe laying is subject to strict rules, failure to comply with which can lead to disruption of the entire system.

Rules for laying pipes during the construction of internal sewerage

The riser serves as the central drainage channel in the entire sewer system of the house. There can be one for the whole house. If the house is too large or the bathrooms are located at a considerable distance from each other, then two or more risers are made. They represent vertically installed pipes, which start in the basement and end on the roof. The lower part of the riser is connected to an inclined pipe of the same or larger diameter, which extends outside into a wastewater storage tank or wastewater treatment plant. The upper part of the riser rises above the roof by at least 0.5 m. It is open or equipped with a check valve. Why this is needed - we will consider further. All inlets leading from plumbing fixtures are connected to risers.

Hydrodynamics of liquids in pipes

The pipe is a cylinder with water moving inside it. When the pipe is completely filled with water, a piston effect occurs. This means that at the top of the water plug the pressure drops sharply, and at the bottom, on the contrary, it increases. In a situation where there is an explosive flush from the toilet tank, the resulting vacuum can suck out all the water from the siphons. This is fraught with the appearance of odors in the premises. On the contrary, as the fluid moves, a overpressure, which is capable of pushing out sewage from devices located below the toilet.

Ignoring the laws of hydrodynamics leads to two common mistakes when designing and installing sewer systems. The first mistake is not using a ventilation device. The background pipe running from the riser to the roof not only removes unpleasant odors, but also serves as a pressure compensator in the system. Indeed, if it is present, the reduced pressure above the water piston will not suck water out of the siphons, but will ensure that air enters the system from the atmosphere, which again levels the pressure.

The second common mistake is that all plumbing fixtures are connected through supply pipes to the riser below the toilet. This is unacceptable, as it will certainly cause sewage to pour into the sink or shower stall when flushed. Similar problems arise when the supply pipes are longer than what is allowed for them. To avoid such troubles, it is necessary to formulate some important rules for installation of intra-house sewerage.

Rules for the installation of intra-house sewage systems, the violation of which is unacceptable

Attention! Violation of the following rules can lead to serious disruption of the internal sewerage system or an emergency situation.

• The connection of the toilet to the riser must be carried out separately from other plumbing devices.
• All other plumbing elements are included in the system above the toilet connection point. Several devices can be located on one supply pipe if their performance allows.
• Any supply pipe must be no smaller in diameter than the largest diameter connection from the device.
• The outlet from the toilet has a diameter of 100 mm, therefore, the riser should not be thinner than it.
• The toilet is installed at a distance of no more than 1 m from the riser, and other devices no further than 3 m.
• If the house has a supply pipe longer than 3 m, then it should not be thinner than 70 mm. The liner, which is longer than 5 m, is made from a 100 mm pipe.

If increasing the diameter of the supply pipes is for some reason impossible, then there is a way to circumvent this rule. To do this, it is necessary to bring the end of such a pipe to the roof and provide vacuum valve or loop it onto a riser above all other devices.

Quantitative characteristics of sewer pipe laying parameters

I exist important nuances, compliance with which will ensure the operation of the sewage system in optimal mode:

• Tilt everyone horizontal pipes depends on the diameter of their cross-section. The standards say that a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm should be lowered by 3 cm for each linear meter of length, having a diameter of 100 to 110 mm by 2 cm per meter. Pipes with a diameter of more than 160 mm can be tilted no more than 0.8 cm per linear meter.
• An indicator such as the height difference for a toilet should be 1 m, and for other devices 3 m. Exceeding these parameters should be accompanied by the organization of ventilation at the ends of the corresponding inlets.

Another common mistake is the incorrect design of corners. If you make 90-degree angles, then as a result of the rebound, a blockage of waste will form in this place, and the pipe will quickly clog. For this reason, it is necessary to create a smooth flow of water at the corners. For this purpose, shaped parts are used that have an inclination angle of 135 degrees.

The fourth mistake is that the vent pipe is not brought to the roof, but to the general house ventilation. Such a device will create an unforgettable “aroma” in the entire house, which can only be gotten rid of by redoing the entire system.

In order to prevent the sounds of water moving through the pipes from being heard, it is necessary to arrange sound insulation. To do this, the pipes are wrapped mineral wool and placed in boxes made of plasterboard sheets. For timely and convenient preventive work pipes are equipped with inspection hatches every 15 m. The same applies to all turns.

Fifth mistake. The pipe connecting the internal sewerage system and the septic tank is not installed check valve. In this case, if the outdoor disposal units overflow, water can rise up the pipes and flood the basement.

Errors related to connecting siphons

Any plumbing fixture is connected to the sewer system through siphons shaped like the letter U. This curved shape allows water to constantly remain in it. It forms a water barrier and prevents odors from penetrating into the room. However, this system stops working when certain errors are made. Main mistake– lack of ventilation. In this case, the vacuum simply sucks the water out of the siphon, allowing odors to wander freely throughout the house. Another reason for the appearance of an unpleasant odor is the banal evaporation of water from the siphon. This happens when the device is rarely used. You just need to plug the rarely used device with a rag.

What calculations are made when planning internal sewerage

Work on designing internal sewerage must be carried out strictly in accordance with the above rules. In addition, to comply with them, certain calculations are required:

• On general scheme indicate the places where this or that device will be located. Its distance from the riser, the diameter of the supply pipe, the mounting option and connection to the sewer are thought out in advance. At the same time they calculate required amount materials.
• Determined by the type of sewer system itself. They are pressure and gravity. Typically, due to simplicity, a system is used in which water flows under the influence of Earth's gravity. The main thing here is to calculate the slope of the pipes according to the rules outlined above.
• According to technical specifications of each sanitary fixture, its instantaneous flow is calculated. The thickness of the supply pipe depends on this indicator. In most cases, a 50 mm pipe is suitable for all devices except the toilet.
• Calculate the most optimal location for installing the riser. Most often these are toilets. If there are two of them in the house, in different vertical planes, then it’s better to make two risers.
• The sewerage scheme must be calculated in such a way as to minimize the number of available rotation angles. This will significantly reduce the risk of blockages.

The above calculations, performed correctly, will make the sewage system more efficient and effective even when overloads occur.

What is needed to build an in-house sewerage system

As mentioned above, the main thing in installing a sewer system inside a house is drawing up its detailed drawing indicating all the devices and dimensions of the elements. For installation, sewer pipes made of polyvinyl chloride are used. The arrangement of their ends is such that two pipes can be connected by placing the end of one into the socket of the other. Pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are used for risers, and 50 mm for other devices. To connect to external sewerage, a corrugated pipe is used due to its better resistance to soil movement.

The tools usually used are: a saw for cutting plastic pipes, sharp knife and rubber mounting seals. The pipes are cut with a saw, the cuts are aligned and chamfers are made with a knife. Rubber seals inserted into the sockets. To connect pipes into a system, various shaped parts are used:

• Bends or elbows that are needed to form corners. They are produced with a bend of 45 and 90 degrees. Their ends are also equipped with sockets with seals to create tight connections.
• If it is necessary to connect pipe scraps of the same diameter, transition bends are used.
• Tees of various types are fittings for organizing pipe branches.
• Transition couplings are needed to create transitions between pipes of different thicknesses.

A common mistake when installing plastic sewer pipes is ignoring their heating. To make the pipes fit easier and more tightly into each other and into the connecting fittings, the sockets must be heated in hot water.

Sequence of work when installing internal sewerage

Installation of the sewer system inside the house is carried out in the following order:

First, they install risers, leading their ends to the roof and into the basement. They should be located in close proximity to toilets. In the basement, they are connected to an inclined pipe that goes outside into the septic tank, and the upper ends are left open or equipped with check valves.

Secondly, the supply lines from the toilets are brought to the riser. They must be separate.

Thirdly, they connect the supply lines from other devices above the toilet entrances to the risers.

Fourthly, siphons are installed on all devices.

Fifthly, the siphons are connected to the connections.

In conclusion, let’s say that a properly designed and assembled sewer system will work as expected. for a long time without serious problems.

Filimonov Evgeniy

Reading time: 9 minutes

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How to create a sewer system in a private house. External and internal sewerage. Selection of materials and location of sewerage. Installation of pipes and sewer drains.

When building a mansion, the sewerage diagram in a private house should play important role. After all, the comfort of living and the availability of sewerage repair work in the future depend on the arrangement of the wastewater system.

Stages of laying a sewer system. Materials for creating sewers. Internal and external sewerage, what are the differences between them. Choosing a location. Arrangement options. Selection of necessary pipes. Tips and recommendations for reliable installation.

When constructing a new building, sewerage is an integral part. WITH modern materials and quantity useful information Finding out on the Internet how to correctly design a sewerage system in a private house with your own hands will not be a problem.

By following simple requirements, you can easily install the waste system yourself, since you do not have to use outdated, bulky materials.

Since the old grandfather’s toilet has lost its relevance, especially in the cold season, three main types of waste systems are currently in use:

• A system connected to a collective or city sewer;
• Stationary waste collection point;
• Sealed tank;
• Stationary sewer well without bottom;
• Biosewage installation diagram.

The principles of installing a pipe system in the house and up to the collector are almost the same for all types. It is convenient to make all the wiring around the house from PVC, and it is more rational to make the connection to the collection point with a HDPE pipe technical purpose, since its length allows a dockless method. The main branch connected to the toilet is laid with a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, all other standard water points (sink, washing machine, shower stall), are connected to the general system with 50-diameter pipes.

The only requirement is an angle of 2-3o at horizontal sections to ensure optimal water flow.

U sewer PVC pipes have their advantages and disadvantages when installing a waste system:

• An easy way to connect. The entire circuit is assembled like a construction set, pipes and components are simply inserted into each other;
• The materials are light in weight compared even to HDPE materials;
• A simple method of fastening, including on a vertical surface;
• The only drawback is maximum length freely accessible 6 m.

Do-it-yourself sewerage diagram in a private house

Do-it-yourself installation of a sewerage system in a private house is possible for all types of sewerage, except biosewage. To implement this option, it is recommended to contact specialists. All others can be mounted independently, but when connected to central system, you will need a package of admission documents.

Where to start

The first point is to select the type of collection point. The most profitable is connecting to the general city branch. The user makes a one-time investment in installation and required materials and pays a symbolic amount monthly for services. This option is not always feasible for suburban construction, but there is an alternative.

Stationary sewerage scheme for a private house: depth of laying the pipe to the tank

The reservoir can be made of different materials.

It could be:

• Metal or plastic tank;
• Concrete structure;
• Concrete rings installed on a concrete base.

This method is acceptable even if there is a water well on the site, since liquid waste with good waterproofing does not penetrate into the soil. The only drawback is the waste of money on the services of vacuum cleaners. A septic tank, as a rule, is installed at a depth of 1.5-2 m. It is strongly recommended that the pipeline be laid below the freezing level of the soil, which can be determined using a special map.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Depending on the number of water collection points, the working volume of the container is selected, but it should be taken into account that the standard volume of a sewer truck is 3 m3, that is, the volume of your container must be a multiple of this figure.

For example, if the volume of the tank is 5 m3, you will either overpay for the services of a second machine, or 2 m3 of working volume will be filled once and become useless.

In the case of a standard family of 4 people, with periodic washing, showering, and washing dishes, a container with a volume of 3 m3 is filled on average in two weeks.

Option with leaky waste collection point

When implementing this type of sewage system, the location of the waste collection point is very important. The minimum distance from the house and outbuildings to the cesspool is 6-10 m. Otherwise, liquid drains wash away the soil and sandy base of the foundation.

Execution options:

• Concrete rings installed on a drainage pad;
• Brick version of the cesspool;
• Metal or plastic barrels with holes connected into one system.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Note! When using barrels, the base is laid out with gravel, since the weight of the poured soil will press the container into loose soil.

When laying a sewer system in a private house, it is recommended to make the ditch with a slope exceeding an angle of 2-3° for a more efficient process. The depth of the ditch for each case is different, depending on the size of the site and its location relative to the access roads.

Basic principles of sewer pipeline construction

Depending on the number of communication drainage points, a diagram of the internal arrangement of pipes is drawn up. For convenience, the diagram is drawn on graph paper. In the case of constructing a two-story building, in order to save materials, it is recommended to locate bathrooms and secondary drain points as close to the collector as possible. The main collector is mounted along one vertical line on all planned floors, all subsequent parts of the system are connected in series to the main line.

The technology for assembling PVC materials is very simple, since any pipe can be shortened to the right size. Also each node with closed system It is recommended to be equipped with an emergency adapter in case of blockage, or an adapter of a larger diameter.

It is recommended to connect nodes located in closed walls using sealant. It is recommended to avoid 90° angles, this reduces the risk of clogging.

Operating principle of a water seal

Water valve prevents penetration unpleasant odors from the sewer into the room. Its device has the same design, the only differences are in size. The water serves as a kind of plug.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeniy

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Note! In the event of a long period of inactivity without operation, the water evaporates and the water seal loses its functional qualities.

Vacuum valves and drain pipe

These two concepts are unknown to most people outside the plumbing profession. The purpose of these two elements is to prevent air discharge in the system when draining a large amount of water or during the operation of vacuum cleaners, at the time of pumping waste from the storage tank.

Undoubtedly, installing a sewer system is the simplest stage of construction compared to electricity or building walls, but there are many pitfalls at this stage.

Here is a list of some of them:

• When purchasing pipes and components, check availability rubber gasket in the bell. She often gets lost;
• It is strongly recommended not to connect fan pipe to the ventilation system;
• In the case of a standard set of water consumption points (one toilet, two sinks, washing machine, shower), it is not necessary to install a drain pipe; you can limit yourself to a vacuum valve;
• When laying PVC pipes in a ditch, carefully monitor the joints, as the joints are unstable;
• It is strongly recommended to install an emergency drain for cleaning the sewer. It is installed as close as possible to the point where the pipe enters the house, in an accessible place.

Compared to other stages of construction, sewerage is the easiest to install, with the exception of biosewage. Consult with specialists or select specialized literature, as rash actions can destroy bacteria present in the storage tank. For example, from a bleach-based toilet cleaner, bacteria will take a week to recover.

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When arranging a country house, many communications are often installed with your own hands. There is nothing surprising about this: the process itself is quite simple, and performing the work does not require any special skills. Of course, there are certain rules that must be followed: for example, it is worth designing the structure carefully and ensuring that one communication line does not interfere with another. How to install a sewer system in a private house will be discussed in this article.

If we talk about sewerage, the first thing you need to know is this system consists of internal and external parts, and the arrangement of each of them is carried out in its own way. External sewerage is somewhat easier to install, since the work is carried out in an open space. From the inside, everything is a little more complicated, so installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands begins with it.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house

The riser is usually made of a 110 mm pipe made of plastic. All drainage pipes are connected to the riser, through which wastewater is collected from plumbing fixtures. To connect the toilet to the system, straight sections made of 100 mm pipes are used, and other devices can be connected through various fittings using pipes with a diameter of 32 to 80 mm.

The sewer system requires a slope, otherwise it simply will not work: the structure operates on a gravity principle, so the slope must be maintained in all its sections, regardless of the length of the pipelines or the location of the devices. According to regulatory documents, the average slope should be within 2-3 cm per 1 meter of pipeline. When creating a slope, you need to carefully monitor compliance with this value, otherwise the system will very soon begin to create problems.

To connect plastic pipes, it is necessary to use fittings made of the same material: such a connection will provide the structure with sufficient strength and tightness. When laying hidden sewers, you need to not only lay the pipes in prepared grooves, but also fix them with clamps for reliability. The grooves themselves are subsequently masked with a special solution.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewerage

Installing a sewer system in a private house requires attention, especially in such moments:

1. The design should have a minimum of bends and turns, so the entire highway should be made as straight as possible.
2. If plastic pipes were used in the house, then the external sewage system should also be made of this material.

1. Large volume of excavation work. It is necessary to lay external sewerage systems taking into account the level of soil freezing: the pipes must be below this level so that negative temperatures do not provoke stagnation or rupture of the system.
2. Creating a sewer well. Before creating a sewer system in a private house, you will need to accurately calculate the amount of drainage, which is affected primarily by the number of residents. The large expected volume of waste indicates the need to create a large reservoir, so the depth of its arrangement should be quite large.
3. Selecting a system type. The quality of collection and disposal of wastewater, as well as the ease of operation of the sewer system will be directly influenced by its type. Each design has its own nuances: for example, a conventional cesspool has extremely low efficiency, but is very cheap, but a powerful biological treatment station will be expensive, but its performance indicators will be on par. top level. Read also: "".

In any case, external sewerage places special requirements on its arrangement, and they must be taken into account in order for the design to be as efficient as possible.

Carrying out excavation work

In addition, it is important to pay attention to the slope of the bottom of the trench: when using technology, the required value will not be achieved, so everything will have to be leveled yourself. In any case, after preparing the trench, its bottom must be covered with a small layer of sand.

Construction of a sewer well

• brickwork;
• metal tank;
• reinforced concrete rings;
• plastic septic tank.

1. Devices made of bricks or blocks are quite good elements of the sewer system, but their installation takes a lot of time. With little experience in construction work, creating a brick well may take several days.
2. Metal structure compares favorably with brick in ease of installation and lower cost, but the service life of the device is in this case will be much less: metal is easily susceptible to corrosion, and very soon the device will become faulty.
3. Reinforced concrete wells are quite common structures, since their advantages include strength, reliability and durability. The disadvantage of a well made of reinforced concrete rings is that it is difficult to install: the finished rings have considerable weight, so it is almost impossible to install them yourself.
4. Plastic septic tanks can also be considered reliable and quality designs: they are durable and much lighter than reinforced concrete counterparts, so they can be installed with the efforts of 2-3 people. True, the cost of the design is slightly higher than the cost of previous devices, but the money spent will pay off in the very near future. In addition, if we take into account the labor costs of constructing, for example, concrete wells, the price will be almost equal. Read also: "".

How to install sewer pipes

Final stage laying the pipeline - connecting the main line to sewer well. Couplings connecting all pipes are also used for this. external sewerage with each other and with internal sewerage. When the pipes are assembled and installed in their places, the trench is covered with earth, and the work is completed.

Subtleties of sewerage arrangement

Soil freezing level too deep. With this phenomenon, the pipes must be laid too deep, and the amount of work will increase greatly. This phenomenon can be avoided by using thermal insulation.

It can be done in two ways:

• with help thermal insulation materials performing well this work;
• with help electric heating, implemented through a cable stretched along the entire sewer main.

Design selection. Selecting a sewer system is an individual question, and there is no universal answer to it. To make the choice of sewer more clear, you should read the article about the types sewer systems.

Conclusion

Installing a sewer system in a private house can be done with your own hands - even inexperienced craftsmen will not have any problems. And if you stock up on some knowledge and carefully prepare for the work, the design will turn out to be reliable and will be able to function for a very long time and with high quality.