Step-by-step instructions for working on drywall: making the ceiling and walls with your own hands. How to make plasterboard walls with your own hands? Calculation of consumables for constructing a gypsum board wall

The main task of renovation in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal condition. After all, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought perfectly smooth walls and didn’t think about it. They were leveled according to the “at least somehow” principle. You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down old plaster and completely plaster along the beacons. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: level the surface of the wall with plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the renovation process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions and install new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using plasterboard. We will tell you how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands in the article.

How to cover walls with plasterboard

First, let's consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing plasterboard with glue - is the fastest, but it also has disadvantages. The first is that there is not glue under the finishing everywhere, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan in advance to attach something to the wall, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install an embedded beam, which will also serve as an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another minus is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. The difference is 2-3 mm. Between the “pieces” of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, this is a good way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall to a wall, watch the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to a wall, we will talk about a frame and mostly a metal one. The rules for attaching to wood are the same, you just use wood screws.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets come in and how to lay plasterboard on the walls. The standard sizes are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones of shorter length: shorter ones are easier to work with, but you end up with more seams, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm — universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm - for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are for ceilings. But manufacturers have no such recommendations. Any of the manufacturing plants positions thin sheets, like those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front side. It is turned inside the room.

How to dock

If it is necessary to join sheets in height, position the joints so that you do not end up with a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid staggered or offset. In this case, it is desirable that the offset be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most probable places appearance of cracks. By moving the seam, you are almost 100% likely to get rid of cracks (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top must be installed so that the joint of the bottom one falls in its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

How to attach and in what steps

When installing, the sheet is pressed against the frame and secured using a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is made of metal, use TN25 screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores they are called “for drywall.” Length - 25 mm, color - black (more often broken) or white. For a wooden frame, select ones that are close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

During installation, it is important to tighten the fasteners to the required depth: the cap should be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard should not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: this way there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To see how you can simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the required depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two at the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the profile.

Stepping back 10-12 mm from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Fastened along the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting out sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (especially important for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (without taking into account the specifics of installing profiles).

Plasterboard partition

Installing a partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

Marking

First, mark the installation location of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This straight line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use a regular construction level ( good quality) and plumb line. First, mark a line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the straight line connecting them should be strictly above the line on the floor. Whether this is true or not can be checked using a plumb line, lowering it from a mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Marking a partition using a level and plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider assembling a frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the intended line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - load-bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6*40 mm or 6*60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

The PN profile has a standard depth (wall height) of 40 mm, but it can be different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as the thickness of the insulation and/or soundproofing material you can put it there.

Supporting racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are marked CW or PS - rack profile. It differs from the guide in the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the supporting ones: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that the insulation is then installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - special tool, which breaks through and bends the metal to the sides, fastening two parts. Amateur builders independent work with drywall, attached to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill through the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). The racks are secured on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One point: if you are installing a partition in a high-rise building or on the ground floor of your house, then place a special film or some kind of material at the junction of the rack and the ceiling guide that will prevent squeaking. When people walk, vibrations occur and are transmitted to the profiles, causing them to rub and create a creaking sound. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: both the shrinkage of the house is provided for and unpleasant sounds No.

The installation pitch of the racks is 60 cm or less. This distance is determined by the width of the gypsum board (plasterboard), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bounce” - the sheet will wobble and sag. One more point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the outer profile, therefore the distance should be a little less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside and secured with a pair of screws. You need to use dry wood so that the timber does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and secured, the structures are given greater rigidity using jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

The jumpers are usually placed at the height where the two sheets will be joined. Their edges must be fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - place it every 60 cm, if small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars above the doorway are required: at the same height door frame. It is also advisable to strengthen them by placing them inside wooden block.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying communications and electrical wiring. Preferably everything electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If you place the partition in wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in walls made of plasterboard on a frame made of galvanized steel, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses made of non-combustible raw materials (marked “NG”).

Sheathing with plasterboard and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, the installation of plasterboard sheets begins. They are installed in the same way as for sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall covering begins on one side. Then, on the other side, insulation and/or sound insulation is installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the gypsum board wall is sewn up on the other side.

The usual insulation for walls and partitions made of plasterboard is used:

In principle, it is possible to use other insulation materials, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making walls from plasterboard with your own hands, you will have to cut the sheets: they are not always complete. To do this, you will only need a sharp stationery knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it’s not necessary, it’s just easier. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line with a pencil on the front side along which you need to cut the drywall;
• apply a ruler (block, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a stationery knife;
• We place a block under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, which causes the plaster to break along the cut line;
• we break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard intact.

It's really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described; some are better seen. We have selected videos that show the specifics of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of a frame from profiles. This is really the most time consuming part. And how smooth the wall or partition will be depends on how correctly the frame is made.

How to make a false wall from plasterboard

How to make reinforced racks in a partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but that doesn't mean it's wrong. The racks are actually more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from plasterboard. Strengthening won't hurt here. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved? On the market there is different models profiles, including those with uneven rather than rough walls and sides. With the same thickness of metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at his job? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here we film the installation of the partition step by step. Everything is quite accessible, you can take it as a basis and build walls from plasterboard with your own hands.

The main task of renovation in apartments and houses is to bring the walls to normal condition. Just a few decades ago, practically no one had heard of perfectly smooth walls. They leveled it out based on the “at least somehow” principle. The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: remove the old plaster and re-plaster along the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls using gypsum boards (plasterboard sheets).

The second problem that is most often solved in the process repair work, is a redevelopment. Old partitions are removed and new ones are installed in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using plasterboard. This article will talk about how to level and install plasterboard walls with your own hands: photos, videos.

1. On a base made of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, but is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate for; first you will have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cramping the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fastenings on wooden blocks is that if they are used insufficiently dry (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they may “lead” during drying, and therefore the entire structure will become warped. There is also a possibility of wood destruction by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since prices for lumber are much lower than for profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a frame made of galvanized profile allows you to obtain a perfectly flat surface at any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled so that the front part of the lintel and the rack lie in the same plane. Since the gypsum boards are located at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of a profile frame is the possibility of installing a sound absorber and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without insulation it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of plasterboard sheets directly on the walls.

In other words, installing gypsum boards with glue. Use “liquid nails” or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with minor differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in piles if there are differences, and in strips if the walls are smooth), then the sheet is mounted in place, leveled using a level, secured with supports and wedges.

Another disadvantage is small differences; the surface is not perfectly flat (a difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the “pieces” of glue, the gypsum board bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photos, videos

So, when gluing a sheet to a wall, no fasteners are required; we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The screws for fastening to wood are exactly the same, they just use special screws for wood.

Purpose of plasterboard sheets and their sizes

A few words about how to lay gypsum boards on walls and what sizes they come in. The standard sizes are: height – 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are “non-standard” ones, a little shorter in length. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm – designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm is a universal material for ceilings and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling-grade. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer markets thin sheets, such as those used for finishing uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be turned indoors.

If there is a need to dock plasterboard sheets in height, try to place the joints so that a long line does not form; they are laid with a shift or staggered, preferably so that the displacement does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By moving the seam, with almost a hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of plasterboard, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed with a shift of half the width (60 centimeters).

Rules for installing a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photos, videos

During installation, plasterboard sheets are pressed against the frame and secured using special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 screws (25x3.5 millimeters), in stores they are called “for drywall.” Color – white or black (more often broken), length – 25 millimeters. For wooden frame select screws with a flat head that are similar in size.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the required depth: the head should be recessed in the sheet, without tearing the cardboard; it should also be screwed perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, thus reducing the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each plasterboard sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls in the middle of the profile.

Having made an indent of 10-12 millimeters from the edge, screw in the screws. They can be shifted or placed above one another. The installation pitch is 250-300 millimeters. They are attached along the middle profile and along the perimeter.

Quite a few more important point is the height of the installed sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for changes in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Do-it-yourself partition for a plasterboard wall: photo, video

1. Marking.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This straight line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If you don't have a laser level, you'll have to use a plumb line and building level (High Quality). Then, using a level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting straight line should be located strictly above the line on the floor; this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on this.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the intended line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW – load-bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6*60 or 6*40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is no more than 40 centimeters.

PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the supporting profile will determine how thick the soundproofing material or insulation can be placed there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the load-bearing capacity and make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the supporting one; they must be identical. It is between them that the insulation is installed.

The posts are attached to the guides in several ways. The first one is mainly used professional builders. They work with a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides and fastens two parts. During independent repair work with gypsum boards, amateurs attach them to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill into the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no holes need to be drilled). The racks are secured on each side with two self-tapping screws.

An important point: if you are installing a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the joint of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent squeaking. During walking, vibration occurs, which is transmitted to the profiles; as a result, the profiles rub and a creaking occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided for, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the plasterboard sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If the gap is still more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or the sheet will sag and wobble in this area. Another important point is that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​the outer profile, so the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is secured with self-tapping screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are set and secured, the structure is given rigidity using jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are placed at the height of the junction of two sheets; they must be secured. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, place 80 cm, if small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are prerequisite when covering gypsum boards. It is also advisable to reinforce them with a wooden block.

1. Laying communications, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photos, videos.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin laying electrical wiring and communications. It is advisable to install all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on a wooden frame or in a wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses/apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, the use of polypropylene corrugated hoses from non-flammable material(marked “NG”).

1. Sheathing with heat/sound insulation and plasterboard.

After laying communications, they begin to install plasterboard sheets. They are installed exactly as for cladding. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with gypsum board on the other side. For partitions and walls, conventional insulation is used.

• Expanded polystyrene. One of the types of polystyrene foam. It is distinguished by closed-shaped cells, due to which it has best characteristics: fungi do not develop, do not like rodents, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and can be easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. The downside is the high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent thermal and sound insulation characteristics, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg/m3) is applied. It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burned it releases hazardous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This stone wool(basalt is best), slag wool or glass wool. Basalt ones are considered the most environmentally friendly because they do not contain formaldehyde. They are quite easy to work with, hold up well, are easy to cut, are less susceptible to moisture, and do not require respiratory or skin protection during installation. Their disadvantage is their high cost. The most affordable option of these insulation materials is slag wool, glass wool average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other insulation, but the above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When covering walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. To do this, you will need a stationery knife, a long, flat object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you need to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

DIY plasterboard walls: photos, video tutorials

Unfortunately not all features this process can be described, some are better seen with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of a frame from profiles. Since this is truly one of the most labor-intensive works, and how smooth the partition and wall will be depends on how correctly the frame is formed.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really rigid. This method must be used if you are building a full-fledged partition between rooms from gypsum plasterboard, in which case reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: corrugated or smooth?

On the market there is various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of metal, it is stiffer. How good he really is, look at the video.

Drywall is a very popular and in demand material. Its prevalence can be explained simply: it is extremely easy to install, undemanding and affordable. You can install it yourself, the main thing is to know how it’s done.

Another important point is the choice of drywall itself. Premises with high humidity require the use of only moisture-resistant material. And it would be better to protect it from moisture with a completely sealed layer of finishing.

The preparatory part includes marking and setting up the frame for drywall. It would be very good to have the appropriate tools to quickly and high-quality installation(for example, a laser level). In this case, problems with the construction of horizontal and vertical planes It won't happen to you. If such a tool is not available, a simple pencil or plumb line can replace it. Step-by-step installation DIY drywall, presented here, will help you understand this complex of works.

Before self-installation drywall, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video series:

Let's proceed directly to installation:

• When making markings, you should not forget about the location of the joint line of the plasterboard sheets - it should be equal to the middle of the profile. If the width of the gypsum board is 120 cm, then the frame racks are mounted in increments of 60 cm. We retreat from the wall by the width of the profile and draw a line;
• Using a stepladder, level or plumb line, you need to transfer the lines on the ceiling surface or wall surfaces. These lines will determine the boundary dimensions of the future frame structure;
• After this, you should glue special rubber bands to the horizontal guide bar, after which you need to attach this bar along the previously marked planes. Next, it is attached to the holes, which are made using a puncher on dowels with self-tapping screws, at a distance of 50-60 cm;

• On the lines frame device it is necessary to secure the hangers on which we attach frame profiles. After gluing the sealing gaskets, we fasten it to the wall with dowels and screws;
• We mount the guide rails and fasten the rack profile. If there is a need to insulate the surface, we now lay it between the frame and the ceiling (or wall). This can be mineral wool, polystyrene foam and other materials;

• After commit frame structure, you can begin directly installing the plasterboard sheets. They are attached to the frame and their installation is carried out from the upper corners (or far corners, in the case of a ceiling) using special self-tapping screws, at the same distance between them - 20-25 cm. In this case, the head of the self-tapping screw must be recessed by at least 11 mm, so that later don't bother with;
• When the sheet is secured, you need to drill, if necessary, holes for sockets, switches or lamps. We fasten subsequent gypsum board sheets in the same order until the entire frame is covered;

For some families, a wall becomes the only way out. Children are growing up, and only a few can buy new housing. How to make it for children separate rooms from ? Don't put a wall in the middle of the apartment. The solution will be with your own hands, step-by-step manufacturing instructions for which will be discussed in today’s article. Let's try to understand how difficult it is to do such work on your own: from selection to finishing. Let's figure out how to install electrical wiring in the partitions and ensure sound insulation so that the room becomes complete.

We have already talked about dividing the room into two parts. However, a partition will be necessary in other cases. It could be similar, made according to the same principle, or perhaps decorative from plasterboard for decorating a woman’s boudoir. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of gypsum plasterboard partitions.

Positive and negative qualities of plasterboard walls

Installation of plasterboard partitions is so simple that you can do the job House master without such experience. You just need to know some of the nuances that we will try to highlight today. Among the advantages of working with such material, in addition to ease of installation, we can note the low cost of time and money. GCR is not expensive, with the exception of well-known brands. Allows you to bring to life many of the most daring ideas; it can be bent if necessary. For example, when installing interior partitions, a plasterboard doorway can be made in the shape of an arch or traditional.

A disadvantage of the material can be considered its susceptibility mechanical damage. It is easy to break when hit. Also, the soundproofing qualities leave much to be desired. To ensure them, it will be necessary to produce additional work. One should not hope that massive objects will be available later. To ensure such installation it is necessary to lay in in the right places stiffening ribs that strengthen the structure.

Important information! When installing partitions, you should not rely on the room being dry. At any moment, the neighbors above can flood, which will lead to quite unpleasant consequences and unnecessary costs. It is better to purchase more expensive moisture-resistant material. This will not completely eliminate its swelling, but it will significantly reduce the damage.

What material is required to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands?

A gypsum plasterboard partition consists of a frame, which provides the main strength, and plasterboard sheathing. The frame is made of metal profiles, wooden blocks or a combination of both materials. Dowel-nails are also used to attach guides to, and and, with which jumpers and gypsum boards are attached to them.

Drywall sheets can be divided into types:

• Standard – grey colour, blue markings. The most common material. It is divided into (a little thinner and stiffer) and wall;
• Moisture resistant – green color, blue markings. You should not think that it is not at all afraid of moisture; nevertheless, gypsum is hygroscopic, but more resistant to dampness;
• Refractory – pink color, red marking. and high temperatures.

Related article:

GVL, GKLV and other types, their characteristics, sizes and areas of application - we will talk about all this in detail in this publication. We’ll also look at how gypsum fiber boards and gypsum boards differ and for what work it’s best to use each option.

Optimal thickness of plasterboard partitions

GKL thickness for interior partition depends on the purpose of the wall. If this is a decorative false wall, the minimum sheet thickness will be 12.5 mm. If you are planning a full-fledged partition, in which installation or various souvenirs are possible, then some calculations will be required:

• If the load is 40÷50 kg/m², you need a sheet with a thickness of at least 15 mm;
• Over 70 kg/m² involves the use of double sheets and reinforcement of the frame structure.

When sheathing the frame, you should not make joints between plasterboard sheets of opposite walls at the same level. This will lead to weakening of the structure and the appearance of cracks at the seams. But the choice of gypsum boards is not the most important thing in similar installation. Before you make a plasterboard partition in a room, you should understand which metal profile to choose for certain purposes.

Main types of partitions: features and markings

Image	Construction type	Options	Some characteristics
	S111	The weight of 1 m³ is 28 kg, the recommended height is up to 8 m	A single frame made of galvanized steel profile, which is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in one layer. Inside is filled in the form mineral wool. Used as partitions in rooms with low requirements for sound insulation and fire resistance. The thickness of the partition depends on the size of the profile and gypsum board.
	S112	Weight 1 m³ – 53 kg, height 4÷9 m	Single metal frame with two-layer gypsum board sheathing on both sides. Filler – mineral wool. The design provides high sound insulation characteristics and fire resistance (up to 1.25 hours). It is used for redevelopment or capital construction.
	S113	Height up to 9.5 m. Weight 1m³ – 78 kg	The single frame is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in three layers. By increasing the number of gypsum plasterboard layers, sound insulation increases.
	S115.1	Height – 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ – 57 kg	Double frame covered with gypsum board in two layers. Along with strength, it has excellent fire resistance.
	S115.2	Weight 1 m³ – 69 kg. Height up to 9 m	In addition to the two-layer sheathing, the double frame is separated by an additional sheet of plasterboard (spaced frame). Due to this, strength and thermal insulation properties increase. Mineral wool slabs are laid inside.
	S116	Height 4.5 – 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ – 61 kg. Minimum thickness partitions 220 mm	A double metal frame covered with two layers of plasterboard is convenient for... Fire resistance - 1.25 hours. Sound insulation up to 50 dB.
	S118	Weight 1 m³ - 86 kg. Height up to 9 m	Partition class “Protection of premises from penetration”. Made according to type C113 with single metal frame, covered with a three-layer plasterboard covering. A special feature of the product is galvanized steel sheets, 0.5 mm thick, inserted between the gypsum boards, which significantly increases the strength and fire resistance of the structure. Most optimal for creating a plasterboard partition with a door in a warehouse.
	S121	Weight 1 m³ – 32 kg. Height up to 3.1 m	The frame is made of wood with a moisture content of 12% and sheathed on both sides with one layer of plasterboard.
	S122	Weight of 1 m³ – about 57 kg. Height up to 3.1 m	Two-layer “upholstery” of the gypsum board wooden frame. Insulation material partitions - mineral fiber slabs. Advantages: high strength and good sound insulation.

Related article:

What materials can be used for manufacturing, how to choose the shape of the partition and expert advice on its installation - read all this and much more in this material.

Types of profiles for gypsum plasterboard partitions

To assemble a frame for an interior partition made of plasterboard, you will need three types of profiles - racks, guides (main) and lintels.

Guides – U-shaped profile with standard sizes width – 5; 6.5; 7.5 and 10 cm. Height - 4 or 4.5 cm. The main (guide) profiles are attached to the ceiling and walls, giving the structure stability. Marking – PN or UW.

Rack elements are marked as PS or CW. The dimensions in height and width are identical, because they must be inserted into one another. But the length of the rack profiles is more varied. If the guides are produced in lengths of 3 m, then the rack-mount ones can also be 3.5 or 4 m. The reason for this is that the racks cannot be increased - this harms the strength of the frame structure.

Jumpers are made independently from any type of profile and serve to increase the strength of the frame. Typically, scraps left over from rack or main elements are used. The method of bending (internal or external) depends on the wishes of the master, but the internal one is more durable.

Methods for soundproofing walls made of gypsum plasterboard

The most common method of soundproofing (as well as) gypsum plasterboard walls is to lay mineral wool or foam plastic between the skins. The denser and thicker this layer is, the better the wall or sound.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard partitions: step-by-step instructions for the main stages

Installation of a gypsum plasterboard wall is carried out in several stages. But first you need to figure out which one you might need for the job.

Partition installation tool

In addition to the main tool (perforator, drill, etc.), you will need a plasterboard knife. It can be used to cut out parts the right size. This is done as follows. Having marked the sheet, we apply a metal profile and run the knife along the strip several times, cutting through the surface as deeply as possible. We break the remaining part. It's not difficult; even a schoolboy can do the job. The cut is leveled with a gypsum board plane or the same knife so that the joint is as even as possible.

Need to know! There is no need to adjust the slabs perfectly, because all imperfections will be covered with putty when finishing. But before you make a plasterboard wall, you should practice on an unnecessary section.

Calculation of consumables for constructing a gypsum board wall

Calculate required amount GCR is not difficult. It depends on the layers of the wall, and we will not dwell on it. But calculate the carrier profile more difficult. Calculations are made using the formula Q = (P/0.6 + 4) × K , if the wall is less than 3 m high, and Q = ((P/0.6 + 4) × H/3) + P×K , if the wall height is more than 3 m, where:

• Q – number of supporting profile;
• K – waste coefficient;
• P – perimeter of the room;
• 0,6 – the value of the strut spacing in meters;
• 4 – the number of racks indicated in pieces that must be installed in the corners of the room.

However, load-bearing elements of the frame also remain. We carry out calculations as follows. We divide the perimeter of the future wall by 3 (the height of one profile), and then multiply it by the overexpenditure coefficient. For different areas it is different and amounts to 1.075 for an area over 20 m2, 1.175 for an area from 10 to 20 m2 and 1.275 if an area is less than 10 m2.

Frame installation: let's start work

First, we will analyze the stages of work on how to make a partition from plasterboard, superficially, and then we will try to understand the whole technology using photo examples in detailed step-by-step instructions. First of all, using a laser level, we mark the locations of the main profiles - they are the basis of the future wall. In addition to fastening with dowel nails to the walls and ceiling, we fix the profiles together with a special punch or self-tapping screws.

Having completed this work, we move on to the racks. If it is planned, then we install wooden blocks in the rack profiles around it - they will add strength to the structure.

Good to know! If the wall is small, then you can do without horizontal crossbars. If the dimensions are large, then jumpers will have to be installed.

Before making a partition in a room, cutouts are made in the main profiles to lay the wiring, into which it is pulled. After the main frame is assembled, one side of the partition is closed. In this case, drywall is attached over the entire area, not excluding the future doorway. It's much easier to cut it out later.

Having closed one side of the wall on which sockets and switches will be installed and cutting through the doorway, we install cups under the electrical fittings, pull cables into them and fill free space mineral wool, which will provide noise and heat insulation. All that remains is to close the wall with reverse side GKL and cut through the doorway again.

Now let's look at how to install a plasterboard wall with your own hands in step-by-step instructions with photo examples.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a gypsum board partition with your own hands

Illustration	Action to be performed
	First, measure the length of the main profiles and cut them to the required length. To do this, you can use metal scissors or a grinder. When working with an angle grinder, do not forget about safety glasses.
	Holes are cut in the lower profile for pulling cables (in our case they pass under the floor).
	The main profile is laid according to pre-made markings and attached to the floor. The cables are pulled into the prepared holes.
	The same actions are performed with the upper profile and with the guides along the walls.
	This is how the main profile is attached if there is a doorway directly next to the wall.
	We install a wooden block in the profile along the door jamb, which is fastened with self-tapping screws. It will add strength to the structure and door hinges.
	The profiles are fastened together using self-tapping screws or special device- breakdown.
	Be sure to use a mounting level to check the position of each rack and guide. This will give you confidence that the wall will be level, without tilting.
	We begin to sew up the gypsum board frame, along with the doorway. This is much more convenient than attaching sheets in pieces
	Coat all seams of the first layer with putty and level them. This will provide better heat and noise insulation.
	Let's start cutting the door. Here it will not be possible to break the sheet, and therefore you will have to cut it completely, to the full thickness. In our case it is 12.5 mm.
	We proceed to fastening the second layer of drywall. This time the sheets are shifted by 60 cm, covering the first seam.
	Having covered one side in 2 layers, mark the location of the sockets and drill them out using a wood crown...
	...after which we mount the glasses and route the cables into them.
	On the reverse side we begin laying the insulation – mineral wool. It fills all free space.
	The final result of insulation looks like this. All that remains is to close the second side of the wall.
	Having completed this work and again cutting through the doorway, we get the following picture. But we still have one more blank wall left uninstalled.
	Similarly, we assemble a frame from a metal profile...
	...and cover it with plasterboard. All joints should be as smooth and neat as possible.
	Lastly, we will close the ends of the metal profile, after which we can begin finishing the mounted wall.

How to bend gypsum boards to install an arched passage

This work is quite simple to do. We cut the strip to size and, placing it on the floor, using a knife and ruler, make transverse cuts every centimeter along the entire length. After these steps, the strip will easily bend and position itself as needed. It becomes clear that the question of how to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands is not so complicated.

Are you planning to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands? You can understand: this is a reliable and economical material, allowing you to bring into reality the most non-trivial design idea. In order for it not to work out, as in the immortal statement of Viktor Chernomyrdin - “We wanted the best, but it turned out as always” - it would be useful to familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions, which cover in detail all the stages of work for finishing the ceiling surface.

For convenience and clarity, we have provided it with 47 photos, so you will not have any difficulties understanding the material.

Preparing the premises

• remove all large objects and furniture that could potentially interfere with work and movement during the installation process;
• if it is impossible to carry out the first step, cover the furniture with film to protect it from construction debris, adhesive composition and dust;
• clean the ceiling of everything unnecessary: ​​dust, small knots and everything that you are unlikely to get to in the foreseeable future after installation.

Tool preparation

How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, so that later you don’t have to regret the crooked fit of the sheets and bad organized lighting? That’s right, the key to successful installation is proper marking and necessary tools at hand.

First, let's list everything you need to implement correct marking premises:

1. roulette;
2. level;
3. pencil;
4. painting cord.

Now let’s touch on the mandatory set of directly necessary construction tools:

1. hacksaw;
2. perforator;
3. screwdriver;
4. scissors.

As you can see, you don’t need anything out of the ordinary to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands. A standard set of tools that can be purchased at any construction supermarket.

The only thing that can be added to this list, modest in every sense, is protective glasses. Still, some steps in our step-by-step instructions include operations that could potentially harm your eyes.

Compliance with safety regulations- This is the basis of the basics when performing any type of repair work, so take this recommendation seriously.

Preparation of material

In accordance with how you see your future gypsum board ceiling, prepare plasterboard sheets of the required size. Calculating the total area of ​​the room is quite easy: the length is multiplied by the width, and Exact size pieces of material directly depends on the format plasterboard construction, which you want to see in your room.

You will also need:

• ceiling guide profiles UD;
• ceiling main profiles CD;
• direct universal hangers or any others in accordance with the layout;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels

It should be remembered that UD profiles are attached to the wall along the perimeter, and CDs are inserted into them longitudinally with the required step according to the size of the plasterboard fragments.

Cost table

In order for you to have a rough idea of ​​future expenses and be able to prudently adjust your budget, we offer you a small table that shows the average current prices on the materials used for finishing the ceiling with plasterboard.

Marking

Very simple but enough important stage, the correct execution of which determines the final result:

• we find the lower corner point on the concrete base of the ceiling;
• we make the necessary indentation, guided by practical considerations: how the lamps will be mounted, how many levels there will be in the final structure. Remember that there must be a certain margin of a few centimeters, otherwise making a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands will turn out to be very rough and unattractive;
• We put a mark using a level; if you have a hydraulic level at hand, then the problem of evenly transferring this line to the entire plane can be considered solved. If not, then you will have to use the painting cord we mentioned;
• We connect all the marks using this cord, achieving a perfectly straight line.

The final marking touch is to apply the so-called mesh, which will serve as a guide for the installation of prepared hangers. Observe the step between the lines, it is approximately equal to 50 cm.

This is what you should end up with.

If you see approximately the same thing on your ceiling, then congratulations: you have successfully completed the first stage of our step-by-step instructions.

Frame

If the markings are done correctly, then constructing the frame should not cause you any particular difficulties:

• start from the perimeter, securing the prepared UD wall profile at a given step (up to 60 centimeters);
• proceed to fixing the hangers - use dowels for this, and again the prepared hangers should be placed at the intersection of the longitudinal and transverse lines marked on concrete base mesh ceiling (see previous paragraph);
• prepare mortgages from bars for the chandelier, if one will be used indoors, and also run wires to the places where you plan to install spots and other types of lighting fixtures;
• insert the longitudinal CD profile into the grooves of the wall profile and secure it with self-tapping screws. You should have them on hand, right?

If you didn’t know how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly, but followed the suggested step-by-step instructions, then half the way has already been safely completed. The creation of the frame is crowned by the installation of what is called battens , on which the plasterboard sheets will be attached.

Sheathing with plasterboard

Probably the most basic and uncomplicated step when installing drywall, which, however, will require help in the form of a couple of extra hands.

In order to speed up or even simplify finishing the ceiling with plasterboard with your own hands, use the help of your friends to fix the sheets on the ceiling. The fact is that you are unlikely to be able to secure sheets of drywall with self-tapping screws alone.

1. start from one wall, systematically moving towards the opposite;
2. installation of the last fragment is carried out by cutting the sheet in accordance with your measurements;
3. lay the fragments in a joint, eliminating the appearance of any gaps or irregularities. If we are talking about last sheet, then experienced experts still recommend leaving a small gap in this case.

Finishing

Step-by-step instruction on the topic of how to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, I logically approached the post-processing of an already assembled surface. However, in terms of the number of micro-operations, this stage confidently pushes back all the previous ones:

• puttying joints and gaps;
• surface primer;
• decorative finishing.

The choice of implementation of the latter is solely on your conscience. Usually, to make a plasterboard ceiling more expressive, they use beautiful wallpaper, application decorative plaster, painting the ceiling base water-based paint. When choosing this or that solution, make a discount on functional purpose premises.

It goes without saying that for the kitchen or bathroom, where high humidity and temperature changes are frequent, it is best to choose the most practical look finishing - painting with a reliable water-based emulsion.

Conclusion