Garlic turned yellow in early spring treatment. Garlic turns yellow in spring: what to water and feed for various reasons for yellowing. How to water garlic in spring to prevent it from turning yellow

Garlic, a favorite herb in almost every family, is a cause for concern when gardeners see its leaves turning yellow. Unfortunately, this strong-smelling plant, which is often used as a natural medicine for other crops, is sick. Although yellowing of garlic leaves can be caused by other reasons. You need to know many farming secrets in order to grow large garlic without damage - both winter garlic, which is planted in the fall, and spring garlic, which is planted in the spring.

Causes of yellowing garlic leaves and their elimination

Yellowing of the leaves is a signal of trouble with the plant, which the gardener should take seriously. It's time to think about what and when to feed garlic if it turns yellow in the spring. Don't blame it on weather conditions. Although they are also included in this list.

Factors affecting the appearance of garlic

Indeed, it is often spring frosts that are “to blame” for the yellowing of garlic feathers. Late morning frosts damage young greenery. It must be immediately supported by treating it with growth stimulants, which are offered in abundance commercial network: Zircon, Epin, NV-101 and others;
Planting time also affects the development of the plant. Early, in September, can lead to the fact that the first garlic feathers will already sprout before the onset of cold weather. Subsequently, these specimens will become weakened;
If the clove is deeply buried, the entire plant may suffer;
Garlic does not tolerate high soil acidity;
Lack of sufficient amounts of essential nutrients - nitrogen and potassium;
The planting material or soil has become infected with a stem onion nematode or fungal diseases;
Garlic plantings are damaged by onion fly larvae;
The bed urgently needs loosening or watering.

Did you know? Experienced gardeners Determine soil acidity “quickly and cheaply.” A handful of cherry or currant leaves are brewed in hot water. When the water has cooled, throw in a pinch of earth. The water turns red - the soil is acidic; blue – the soil has low acidity; greenish – the soil is neutral.

Preparing a bed for garlic, planting, care

The soil should be loose, it should be fertilized with manure, potassium salt and superphosphate (according to the instructions). If the soils are acidic, they are limed once every ten years: per 1 sq. m - 200-500 g of crushed limestone is mixed with humus and laid out on the ground before plowing.

Winter garlic develops well provided that the height of the soil cover from the top of the planted clove to the surface of the bed is no more than four centimeters. The area is sprinkled with humus, sawdust or peat, and in the spring, after the soil has dried, this layer is removed.

How to improve productivity?
We are constantly receiving letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year there will be a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS on this matter. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we would like to recommend plant growth biostimulants that will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.
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Particular attention is paid to watering and loosening the garlic beds in May and June, when the cloves are forming. Garlic likes warm, settled water.

The arrows need to be removed. Two weeks before harvesting, the soil is raked away from the heads so that they develop better. If winter garlic If you don’t remove it in time, the cloves will fall apart and won’t stick together.

Necessary feeding

Mineral fertilizers applied according to the rules of agricultural technology significantly improve the development of both winter and spring garlic. As soon as the snow melts and the soil dries, winter garlic is given the first feeding, the next one two weeks later, the third one in the middle of the second to the beginning of the third decade of June, when the cloves form. Spring garlic is also fertilized three times: when the third leaf appears; after 15 days; at the end of June. We must hope that then such a problem will not arise: the garlic turns yellow. Every gardener wonders what is the best way to water and feed this valuable onion plant – traditional organic matter or minerals.

Organic feeding

The answer is simple: both types are valuable, they complement each other well. Usually the best autumn fertilizer are manure or bird droppings. In the spring-summer period, humus and droppings are diluted with water at the rate of 1:4 and 1:15, respectively. It is always better to add nitrogen fertilizers to humus, since nitrogen evaporates from the original organic matter during overheating. Wood ash is suitable as a potash fertilizer: one glass will be used per square meter. The soil is then loosened.

Use of mineral fertilizers

From the beginning of growth, in the spring, mixtures with nitrogen are added, then complex mixtures with potassium. And the finishing touch for the formation of heads is phosphorus-based fertilizer.

The first feeding, so that the garlic does not turn yellow, is carried out nitrogen fertilizers– urea (may be sold under the name urea), ammonium nitrate or others that are offered for this purpose by gardening stores. One tablespoon of the substance is diluted in a bucket of water. Water the bed with garlic with this solution, hoping that for one square meter it needs to be added about 3 liters;
The second time they feed complex fertilizers, composed of all three main nutrients - nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. You can choose from: nitrophoska (it contains up to 50% potassium, little phosphorus) - 40-60 g per 1 sq.m; nitroammophoska (more phosphorus) – 40-50 g per 1 sq.m. Dilute two tablespoons of fertilizer in ten liters of water. The consumption rate increases - up to 4 liters;
For the last feeding, dilute two tablespoons of superphosphate in a bucket of water, now watering the area more abundantly - in a ratio of 5 liters per square meter.

What causes garlic?

The owner will go out to the garden, and how sorry he is for the yellowed leaves of garlic, which only recently pleased them with their first juicy spring greens! Meanwhile, garlic has many diseases.

Interesting! Exist folk signs: never plant onions and garlic in the same place where they were last year - this way you can avoid last year’s pests and pathogens.

Prevention of fungal diseases

Garlic can be affected by spores of serious diseases: fusarium (rot), bacterial and neck rot, rust (convex rust-colored spots), penicillosis ( green mold), peronosporosis (false powdery mildew). On initial stage you can get rid of them using chemicals.

Before planting, the cloves need to be soaked for 20 minutes, more if possible, in a solution of manganese or fungicides (Fitosporin, Maxim and others). This will prevent the development of fungal infections on garlic;

Exists folk method disinfection with salt. Collect half a kilogram of fern leaves, chop them finely, put them in a bucket, add 3 tablespoons of salt and fill them with water. The cloves are kept in the solution for 20 minutes. Water the soil where the garlic grows with this mixture.

Pests in the garden

Alternation of plantings is effective;
The easiest way to get rid of onion flies. If worms are visible at the base of the leaf - its larvae, they are sprayed with a saline solution: 200 g of salt per bucket of water;
The stem onion nematode is a formidable pest. Can survive in soil for up to 10 years (without water or food). The leaves of damaged garlic become lighter and curl. At the bottom of the cloves you can see a pinkish-white coating - an accumulation of worms. Their length is one and a half millimeters. The only way to “escape” from the nematode is to plant plants in another area. Not now effective means fight it;
Prevention: disinfection before planting. Garlic cloves are placed in hot water up to 45 degrees for two hours or in a saline solution (300 g per bucket of water) for half an hour.
The nematode prefers acidic soils. To disinfect them, they are limed;
The nematode is attracted by the smell of marigolds, calendula, and mint. She sucks the juice from their roots, which is poisonous to her.

For those who carefully care for garlic, it produces a stable harvest.

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Why does garlic turn yellow in the spring, what to do about this problem?

This question plagues many gardeners who are faced with yellowing. leaf blades winter garlic with the onset of the spring season.

And this is not surprising, because garlic is an indispensable part of the diet of many people.

This is due to what it contains a large number of useful microelements, vitamins C and E, as well as phytoncides that have an antimicrobial effect.

Is folk remedy against various diseases. In addition, it helps to activate metabolic processes and prevents the development of diseases such as atherosclerosis and other equally serious pathologies.

Therefore, lovers of garlic spices try to grow it on their land plots, especially since it does not require special care.

But even such a resistant plant can get sick, begin to dry out, turn yellow and even die. Let's take a closer look at the reasons for the yellowing of young shoots of garlic and ways to solve the problem.

Causes

If in April-May the feathers of garlic begin to acquire a yellow color, this may indicate violations of agrotechnical rules.

The result of this may be the cessation of growth activity and the beginning of the processes of rotting of the planted cloves.

The main reasons for spring yellowing of leaves are:

insufficient or, conversely, excessive level of soil moisture;
nutritional deficiencies;
acidic soil structures;
consequences of prolonged winter low temperatures;
consequences of late spring frosts;
pests and diseases.

In order to promptly protect the garlic crop from the effects of the above factors, it is necessary to follow the basic agrotechnical rules for growing winter crops.

This means that the solution to the problem, and in some cases prevention, is the following:

Note: It is recommended to start watering the beds where garlic grows in June. The most important thing is to not allow the soil where the garlic is planted to dry out, and watering should be moderately abundant.

For getting good harvest, it is necessary to create all favorable conditions so that the plant grows well and does not begin to turn yellow with the arrival of the spring season.

What to do

You can save the harvest by doing the following:

Apply complex fertilizer.
Enrich soil structures potassium sulfate. A solution of potassium sulfate is suitable for spraying the stems.
Water all the beds with garlic with diluted table salt, by special means from pests, or a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
Compacted soil crusts on the beds must be loosened.

Such an integrated approach will help cope with the problem that has arisen.

To prevent this problem from arising in next year, it is recommended to properly prepare the material for planting, as well as add the necessary fertilizers to the soil.

Gardener's advice: Do not use fresh mullein or manure as fertilizer, as it is the main cause of various pathologies.

Pests and diseases

As already mentioned, garlic is also exposed to the pathogenic effects of various pests and diseases, among which the most common are:

This disease is mainly localized in sheet plates garlic or onion. It is characterized by the appearance of pale spots of a light green shade of a vague nature on the leaf blades. As a result of the development of the disease, formation occurs gray plaque, which is the reason why garlic turns yellow. From the affected leaf, infectious cells penetrate into the head, where they remain until the next spring season.

Note: In order to preserve the heads of garlic affected by downy mildew and to eliminate the infectious cells of peronosporosis, it is necessary to warm up all the heads before storing them.

This dangerous disease fungal type, resulting from sudden temperature changes. Basically, the disease affects all types of garlic, as well as the most popular varieties of onions - sets and selections. Mold forms on the surface upper layers scales, which leads to softening of the bulbs and further penetration of mold.

Please note: The most susceptible to the formation of black mold are unripe and undried heads of garlic.

Emergence occurs of this disease for reasons excess humidity and nutritional deficiencies. The first signs of the development of this disease are early yellowing of the tips of leaf blades and their rapid death. In the bottom region of the head of garlic, the presence of pink, yellow and white plaque. This disease has the character of rapid infection of healthy fruit crops.

The emergence of onion fly.

When this insect settles on leaf blades, it begins to actively eat them, which is a consequence of yellowing of the leaves. In order to secure vegetable crop from flies, it is necessary to disinfect garlic cloves before planting by placing them in hot water(40 degrees) for a couple of hours.

There may also be the development of penicillosis, white rot, green mold and yellow dwarfism.

Preventive measures

In order to protect vegetable crops from diseases and various pests, it is necessary to annually observe agrotechnical rules for preparing soil and seeds, as well as the principles of organizing proper crop rotation.

Annual fertilization of soil structures will contribute to optimal saturation of plants with nutrients and a good healthy harvest. You can fertilize before planting and after germination, in the form of fertilizing during watering.

Yellowing of leaf blades is an unpleasant factor, but the problem can be solved, and timely measures taken will not keep you waiting.

Watch the video in which a specialist talks about the main reasons why garlic turns yellow and what to do to save the harvest:

Garlic is a popular vegetable for planting in gardens and vegetable gardens, because it contains a huge amount of useful substances, thanks to which garlic is used as a medicine. Also, garlic gives food an amazing taste and aroma, so it is not surprising that many people like to plant it in their gardens.

Gardeners who plant garlic on their property may always be faced with the question: “Why does garlic turn yellow in the spring and what to do?” Yellowing of garlic begins at the tips, then quickly increases, which leads to slower growth and development of the plant, resulting in a poor harvest.

In this article we will try to help gardeners find the most effective solutions to avoid such problems. Below we will look at the reasons why garlic leaves turn yellow and describe methods to combat yellowing.

There are two types of garlic: spring, considered spring, and winter or winter. The leaves of winter plants are most susceptible to yellowing even during spring frosts.

In general, yellowing of garlic can occur due to various reasons:

If garlic is planted very early before winter, then it can produce green shoots by autumn, which will then be caught by frost, causing the leaves to turn yellow by spring. Gardeners middle zone countries should plant garlic no earlier than October 15-20, in the south in mid-November.
Due to unfavorable weather conditions, frosts.
Garlic may lack beneficial nutrients.
With insufficient watering or excess watering. If the air-water balance is disturbed, the crop will be spoiled. Do not forget: it is much easier for a garlic plant to survive drought than excess moisture. Watering the garlic plant should be done according to the following scheme: when there is little precipitation, the plant is watered once every fourteen days; If there is constant rainfall, you should not water the garlic at all; in the absence of rain, watering should be increased to once a week.
When there is a lack of nitrogen in the soil. With constant rainfall, fertilizers begin to be washed out of the soil, after which the garlic plant begins to starve of nitrogen. In order to prevent nitrogen starvation of garlic in the fall, gardeners use ammonium sulfate, in early spring minerals and organic matter. This can be liquid manure or carbamide. It is most effective to mix 20 grams of substances in a bucket of water, then water the plants. This is the only way the substances will quickly flow directly to the garlic.
If there is a lack of potassium or magnesium in the soil. If the garlic plant does not have enough potassium, then the roots will be damaged, the leaves will begin to yellow, dry out and wilt, and the garlic will stop growing. When fertilized with potassium, the growth of the garlic plant will be stimulated, and the garlic's resistance to frost, pests and dry weather will be increased. Other signs that indicate insufficient potassium levels include: uneven growth of leaves that droop and grow thin, as well as “edge burns” beginning to appear along the edges of leaves. If there is a lack of potassium in the soil, you can fertilize garlic with wood ash, 100 grams of ash per meter of plot. Ash is also considered an excellent phosphorus fertilizer.
If the depth of the teeth is more than 7 centimeters. It is best to plant garlic at a depth of 5 to 7 centimeters. When planted deeper, the vegetable freezes and the leaves turn yellow. To avoid yellowing of the leaves, it is necessary to cover the young shoots with a polyethylene film. However, if garlic is already affected by spring frosts, then the vegetable must be treated with special stimulating drugs. The sooner gardeners start processing during frosts, the better. “Zircon” and the biostimulator “Epin” help improve root formation and flowering, and increase resistance against diseases. Add 8 drops of Zircon per liter of water, then soak the garlic cloves for 60 minutes. 1 milliliter of "Epin" is dissolved in a bucket with five liters of water.
If the soil where the garlic is planted is acidic. Only neutral soil that is enriched with oxygen and has sufficient moisture will contribute to a good harvest. At acidic soil getting worse appearance garlic plant. The acidity of the soil should be reduced in the fall by preparing limestone that mixes well with the soil. For soil with strong acidity, 50 to 70 kilograms of lime are prepared; when working with moderately acidic soil, take from 35 to 45 kilograms of lime; if the soil has weak acidity, then 30-35 kilograms of lime will be enough.
Planting garlic in frozen soil or in extreme cold.

Diseases and pests

Fungal diseases can lead to rot and yellowing.

There are the following types of diseases:

Fusarium (bottom rot)

Signs of the disease: active yellowing of leaves; the stems are covered with brown stripes.
Features: most often occurs in the south.
Prevention: treatment with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Causes of the disease: high humidity; excess moisture.

Bacterial rot or bacteriosis

Signs of the disease: the cloves begin to rot as they grow.
Causes of the disease: storing the crop at high temperatures and in a humid room.
Features: during storage and during the growing season, disease occurs.
Prevention: garlic plants should not be planted in one place earlier than after 4 years; the soil must be fertilized with phosphorus fertilizers.

Basal rot

Signs of the disease: the tips of the leaves begin to turn yellow, then the yellowing continues at the bottom of the plant.
Causes of the disease: high humidity.
Features: Hard to notice until the leaves begin to yellow.
Prevention: removal of diseased plants; planting material must be disinfected with the drug "Thiram" in a concentration of two to three percent.

White rot

Signs of the disease: the bulbs become covered with white mold after the bulb begins to rot; the leaves wither and begin to turn yellow.
Causes of the disease: lack of nitrogen; dry spring.
Features: the disease can persist for more than 30 years in contaminated soil.
Prevention: regular watering in dry weather; use mineral fertilizers like ammonium nitrate.

Asperillosis or black mold

Signs of the disease: yellowed leaves; soft bulbs.
Causes of the disease: incorrect temperature regime environment.
Features: garlic that is not yet ripe is most often susceptible to disease.
Prevention: 1% Bordeaux mixture is used 3 weeks before harvest; observe the temperature regime; dry thoroughly.

Penicillosis or green mold, blue mold

Signs of the disease: garlic cloves become covered with bluish-greenish rot.
Causes of the disease: through the air; careless handling during harvesting;
Features: Predominantly early garlic is affected by the disease.
Prevention: during storage, constantly monitor the crop and destroy (separate) cloves that are damaged.

Cervical rot or gray mold

Signs of the disease: roots rot; the stems turn black; black clots may appear between the cloves; when fertilizing garlic with large doses of nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
Causes of the disease: warm weather conditions; high humidity.
Prevention: The moisture level inside the soil should be monitored; Before storage, dry thoroughly and store at zero temperature - this stops the development of gray rot.

Downy mildew or downy mildew

Signs of the disease: furry spots gray appear on the leaves, they look like dew; slow growth; slow development; leaves may turn black, wrinkle, or turn yellow.
Causes of the disease: coolness; rainy weather conditions; planting too thick.
Features: the disease can be stored in the soil for many years.
Prevention: treatment biological drugs(biofungicides).

Rust

Signs of the disease: yellowing of the leaves, which become covered with spots and specks.
Causes of the disease: through the air; high humidity; cool.
Features: Subsequently, the leaves may become orange or brown in color.
Prevention: chemically treat garlic before planting; the affected areas are removed, then the garlic is treated with Bordeaux mixture.

Mosaic

Signs of the disease: the leaves begin to become covered with spots of white, green or yellow.
Causes of the disease: the virus is most often transmitted through planting material.
Features: affects inflorescences with leaves.
Prevention: planting healthy material; annually update seeding material by 30%.

Yellow dwarfism

Signs of the disease: yellow streaks on garlic leaves; the stems curl, begin to turn yellow, and become dwarf.
Causes of the disease: long-term propagation by garlic cloves.
Prevention: remove diseased plants.

Pests such as:

Stem nematode

Signs of the disease: long light stripes on the leaves; garlic has a pungent odor; yellowing, curling, wilting of leaves; the bulb loosens, then rots.
Features: watered at the root.
Prevention: a saline solution of two handfuls of salt is diluted in 10 liters of water; 2 tablespoons ammonia can be diluted in 10 liters of water; Plant mint, calendula, and thyme near the garlic.

Onion fly

Signs of the disease: the plant weakens and dies; turns yellow quickly.
Features: lays eggs under the upper scales of garlic.
Prevention: change the sowing location; Plant only quality seeds.

Root mite

Signs of the disease: leaves with the bulb begin to dry out; The garlic scales begin to become covered with brown dust.
Features: lays up to 800 eggs at a time.
Prevention: you need to remove infected seeds and burn them; disinfect planting crops with chloropicrin or fumigate with sulfur dioxide.

What else should I water it with so it doesn’t turn yellow?

Garlic plants are watered in the spring with the following solutions:

Dilute humus or nitrogenous fertilizers in water.
During frost, growth stimulants “Epin” (1 milliliter per five-liter bucket) and “Zircon” (8 drops dissolved in a liter bucket) are diluted in water.
Against pests, water garlic with a solution of three dining rooms spoons table salt, dissolved in a bucket of water.
Kilogram wood ash insist in a bucket of boiled water hot water for three days, then mix and begin to water the beds as top dressing.
Potassium permanganate is dissolved in water; the slightly pink water will help destroy harmful organisms.
Water the beds with a solution of urea (30 grams dissolves in a 10 liter bucket) as a dry fertilizer.
1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate in a liter bucket of water as an anti-yellowing fertilizer.

Garlic has been known to man since ancient times; it was not only eaten, but also used for medicinal purposes, as medicine. Nowadays, perhaps, there is no gardener who does not have garlic on his plot.

Garlic: characteristics of varieties

Garlic comes in 2 varieties:

winter, which is planted before winter (in separate cloves in open ground in autumn).
spring - planted in the spring.

Winter garlic differs from spring garlic in that the former already has a future green arrow embedded in its tooth, which is clearly visible if you make a cross section. Spring garlic does not shoot out its arrow. Its reproduction occurs in cloves. Externally, they also differ: the winter one contains one row of 4-6 large segments, and the spring one has 2 rows of small ones.

Gardeners have noticed that winter garlic mostly turns yellow.

Why does the garlic in the garden turn yellow?

Deep landing. Do not plant winter garlic cloves deep into the ground, as this may cause them to freeze and cause yellow leaves to appear. Therefore, it is best to plant at a depth of 5 cm.
Lack of nitrogen. This reason can be easily corrected if you feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizer early in the spring (if this is done in the fall, some of the fertilizer will be washed out of the soil). Liquid manure and urea are quite suitable for this.
Acidic soil. This kind of soil is absolutely not suitable! The soil must be sufficiently moist and enriched with oxygen. Neutral ground will do.
If the garlic begins to turn yellow, then you need to water the soil often and constantly loosen it.
Poor planting material. This may also be one of the reasons for the appearance of yellowness. Planting material It is advisable to update it every year, otherwise accumulation and development of viral diseases may occur.
No watering. To prevent your garlic from turning yellow, be sure to water it. This is especially important in May - June, when green mass is being formed.
The cause of yellowing may be a violation of the timing of planting garlic.
Various pests and diseases. Such ailments include white rot, stem nematode, which appears in wet weather, and fungus. With fungal diseases, brown-yellow stripes appear on the leaves. The head of garlic itself is covered brown spots, the bottom of the head becomes soft.

There are many reasons for the yellowing of the tips of garlic leaves; it is important to identify the problem in a timely manner and eliminate it.

Garlic turns yellow: what to do?

In order to avoid the appearance of yellowness on the leaves, be sure to use only healthy cloves that have been treated when planting. special drugs(Maxim, Fundazol). Never add fresh manure to the soil; be sure to alternate planting crops in the same place.

It is also very effective to water the soil or planting material with a solution of table salt.

It is prepared based on 10 liters of water. Take 3 tbsp. l salt and 0.5 kg of finely chopped fern leaves. Mix all this and mash well, strain. Immerse the cloves in the solution for 15-20 minutes. Then, they can be planted without washing. You can also use a solution of potassium permanganate in for preventive purposes. Planting material is soaked overnight, drained in the morning and planted during the day.

Remember, it is better to take care of prevention in advance than to treat the consequences.

It’s good if mint, thyme, and calendula are planted next to the garlic.
To reduce acidity, lime the bed before planting or sprinkle it on it in early spring. dolomite flour. After this, loosen the soil.
You can water the garlic with a solution of ash (1 tbsp per bucket of water). It’s even better if you prepare an infusion of 1 kg of ash and 10 liters of boiling water. Leave for at least 3 days. When watering, add 1 liter of product to 1 bucket of water.
When planting any plants in your garden, remember one rule - the key to a good harvest is to follow a rotation of crops. It is not suitable to plant garlic after onions, potatoes, which have common diseases with them. It will be possible to plant it in its original place only after 5 years, not earlier.
Having found out the cause of the plant disease and eliminated it, do not forget about fertilizing. This is prerequisite For good growth and development of garlic. If garlic is turning yellow in your area, you need to choose the right way to feed the plant. You can use nitrophoska, urea or saltpeter.

Growing garlic is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The plant must be watered, fed, loosened and protected from pests. Observing certain rules by caring for the crop, you will definitely get an excellent harvest!

Yellowing of garlic leaves is the most common problem encountered when growing the crop.

Diagnosis of garlic

To accurately determine the cause of yellowing of leaves, plants are diagnosed.

It is necessary to determine the phase of development of the crop (sprouting, regrowth of tops, formation and growth of arrows, maturation of heads). The size of plants should correspond to the development phase.
Visual inspection. In addition to yellowing, pay attention to the presence of damage to the leaves, the presence of insects on them (aphids, small worms).
Inspection of the underground part of the plant. Pull out 2-3 yellowed specimens and inspect the bulb and roots for damage, pests, and rot.

Diagnostics in most cases allows you to determine the cause of yellowing of garlic leaves.

Causes of yellowing garlic leaves

Any problems that arise during the growth of garlic are reflected in the leaves. The main causes of yellowing are:

autumn germination of winter garlic;
freezing;
getting wet;
lack of nitrogen;
damage by stem nematode;
rust;
downy mildew;
bottom rot (fusarium);
acidic soil;
yellow dwarf virus.

Timely measures taken in most cases can minimize the risk of reduction or loss of yield.

Autumn germination of winter garlic

Causes. Winter garlic planted too early will germinate and may freeze when cold weather sets in. Low temperatures in the absence of snow, they damage both the above-ground parts of plants and the cloves.

Signs of damage. The seedlings in spring are yellow, stunted, practically do not grow, the roots are partially damaged.

Solution. If the loss of plants is small, then you can try to save them by watering them with a solution of growth stimulants (Kornevin, Heteroauxin). If most of the plantings are damaged, there is no point in saving them. In order not to be completely left without a harvest, you can plant spring garlic in place of the winter crop.

Early planted winter garlic sprouted in the fall.

Freezing

Causes. Occurs in spring during recurrent spring frosts. Garlic seedlings can withstand short-term temperature drops to -2-3°C. If frosts are strong and prolonged, then the leaves freeze slightly. In addition, garlic is very sensitive to sudden temperature changes. The tops may freeze when the difference between day and night temperatures is more than 14-15 °C. Frosts damage plants in the germination phase and at the initial stage of tops growth.

Signs of damage. The leaves turn yellow, lose their elasticity, and droop. If the stem is caught by frost, it acquires a yellow-green color, the outer tissues along with lower leaves gradually dry out.

Solution to the problem. The plants themselves gradually recover. To accelerate the formation of new leaves, garlic is sprayed with growth stimulants: Zircon (0.3-0.5 ml per 3 liters of water), Gibbersib.

Getting wet

Causes. Soaking of the crop can occur in very wet, rainy summers, as well as in areas where water constantly stagnates. Soil oversaturated with moisture does not allow air to reach the roots, and as a result, plants begin to experience oxygen starvation. The roots suffocate and die, and then die aboveground part. Soaking of garlic most often occurs in the spring and at the end of the growing season.

Signs of damage. The plants turn yellow and lie down, the stem is easily separated from the bulb. The clove (or head) itself is almost completely decomposed.

Solution to the problem. When there is constant stagnation of water on the site, the crop is grown in high ridges or ridges. If during the growing season of plants the soil is oversaturated with moisture, then unhilling is carried out: the soil is raked off a little from the tops of the bulbs, thereby facilitating the supply of oxygen to the roots.

To prevent garlic from getting wet, it is planted in high beds.

Nitrogen deficiency

Causes. A shortage of the element is observed in the spring when high humidity soil, as well as during prolonged cold weather. Winter garlic is very sensitive to nitrogen deficiency. Spring varieties almost never experience nitrogen starvation.

Description. Lack of nitrogen nutrition manifests itself in the spring during the growth of tops. The plants take on a pale green color and the leaves begin to turn yellow. First, the older lower leaves turn yellow, then the younger middle leaves. Plant growth slows down.

Solution to the problem. Do a one-time fertilizing with nitrogen. On very poor soils in rainy weather, it is permissible to re-apply fertilizer after 14 days. The seedlings are watered with a urea solution (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), solution consumption 3 l/m2. When soil moisture is high, dry fertilizing is carried out: grooves are made along the rows of garlic into which urea (2 g/m2) is embedded.

Damage by stem nematode

Very dangerous disease garlic, the causative agent of which is microscopic worms - nematodes. Their sizes are very small (up to 2 mm). They infect the stem and leaves, feeding on the sap of living cells. They overwinter in seed material and leaf debris. The lifespan of worms is 50-60 days; 3-5 generations of pests appear per season.

A head of garlic affected by a nematode

Signs of defeat.

White dots remain on the bulb where the worms have penetrated.
Yellow-white stripes appear on the leaves, then the leaves turn yellow, curl and dry out.
The head becomes loose, the bottom becomes rotten, the roots die.
A specific unpleasant odor appears.
During storage, the cloves at the base of the bottom turn yellow and soften.

Control measures only preventative.

Since the spread of the pest occurs mainly with seed material, the main method of control is careful sorting seed material. If affected cloves are found, or even if there is a suspicion of nematode infection, the entire head is discarded.
Disinfect the cloves before planting by soaking them in water heated to 45°C for 10-15 minutes.
Since some of the pests remain in the soil, it is necessary to plant garlic in the same place no earlier than after 5 years.
Placement of beds with garlic marigolds around the perimeter. Their roots secrete substances that repel nematodes.
Removing affected plants from the garden bed.
Timely weeding.

To combat pests remaining in the soil, use Akarina or Fitoverma powder. The preparation is evenly scattered over the surface of the earth and embedded to a depth of 2-10 cm.
Nematicides, previously used to control stem nematodes, are now banned due to their high toxicity.

Rust

The causative agent is pathogenic fungi. Overwinters as spores on plant debris. It affects leaves, which leads to a significant decrease in garlic yield.

Garlic rust.

Signs of defeat. The disease can manifest itself in 2 variants.
At the beginning of infection, yellow-brown stripes and streaks are visible on the leaves. As the disease progresses, they grow, the leaves turn yellow and dry out.
Small ones appear on the leaves yellow spots, which subsequently become brownish-brown.

Control measures consist of spraying plants with fungicides: Fitosporin-M, Bordeaux mixture, Ridomil Gold.
If onion plantings are infected with rust, then preventive spraying of garlic with the same preparations is carried out every 2 weeks.

Downy mildew or peronosporosis

A disease caused by pathogenic fungi - peronospora. The disease spreads especially strongly in rainy summers. In hot summers, peronosporosis practically does not appear.

Signs of defeat.

It usually starts from the tops of the leaves, spreading gradually throughout the entire leaf.
Yellow-brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaves; on the lower side they are covered with a whitish-gray coating.
The affected areas become deformed and gradually dry out.
Plants are stunted.

Control measures consist of spraying with copper-containing preparations (HOM, Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate), Ridomil Gold, Quadris or the biological product Fitosporin M. The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions in the instructions.

Bottom rot (fusarium)

A disease of garlic caused by pathogenic fungi. The source of infection is soil or seed material. Warm and humid weather is especially favorable for the development of fusarium.

Signs of defeat. The disease affects the bottom of the bulb, then spreading to the above-ground part.

A white coating appears on the bottom and between the scales of the bulb.
The heads soften and the roots rot.
Brown streaks appear on the stems.
A coating of white, light pink, pink-violet or crimson color appears in the axils of the leaves.
The leaves turn yellow from the tips to the base, then turn pinkish-brown and die.

Control measures.

Good results when the first signs of the disease appear are given by watering with Fitosporin-M (the solution is prepared according to the instructions). The same preparation is sprayed on garlic when plaque and streaks appear on the leaves.
When plaque appears on the leaves, spray with Quadris. The procedure is repeated after 10-14 days.
To prevent fusarium, preventive measures are required: sorting seed material, dressing the cloves before planting, observing crop rotation, and destroying plant residues.

Winter garlic is more susceptible to bottom rot than spring garlic.

Soil acidity.

If, from year to year, garlic seedlings turn yellow for no apparent reason, then it is necessary to check the acidity (pH) of the soil. Plants grow well on neutral or, in extreme cases, slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5) soils.

Signs.

If the soil is acidic, the roots cannot absorb enough nutrients. The seedlings turn yellow, the plants acquire a yellowish-green color, but do not die.
Garlic growth slows down.
The heads are small and loose.

Solution to the problem.

First you need to determine the acidity of the soil. Sold in stores special devices or litmus paper with a color scale. To determine pH, follow the instructions. An indirect indicator that the soil is acidic is the growth of plants such as plantain, sorrel, wood lice, and horsetail in the area.

If the pH is below 6.3, then liming is carried out. Doses of lime depend on the acidity of the soil, its mechanical composition and introduced lime material.

Doses of lime for various soils (kg/100 m²)

Lime fertilizers are applied in the fall before digging. Limestone and dolomite flour can be used together with organic fertilizers, they deoxidize the soil within 3-5 years. Garlic is planted 2 years after applying these fertilizers.

The fluff must not be added together with manure, since as a result of their interaction, a significant amount of nitrogen is released, which prevents the garlic heads from setting. After adding fluff, you can immediately plant winter garlic. But it should be remembered that the duration of the fertilizer is only 1 year.

Yellow dwarf virus

The causative agent of the disease is a virus that lives only in living plant cells. Its spread is facilitated by aphids attacking garlic. The bulbs are not affected by the virus and healthy seed material can be regenerated from them.

Yellow dwarf virus

Signs of infection.

Sick plants are severely stunted and look dwarfed.
The tops acquire yellow and loses elasticity.
Longitudinal folds form along the entire length of the leaves.
There is no straightening of the arrows.
The number of bulblets in the inflorescence is significantly reduced.

Should you add salt to garlic?

When the leaves turn yellow, many water the beds with garlic with a solution of table salt. Salt itself (NaCl) does not contain the nutrients garlic needs and does not protect plants from diseases. But such watering is not without some meaning.

Salt helps to raise a certain amount of nitrogen into the upper layers of the soil (the soil solution moves from a less concentrated environment to a more concentrated one), and also repels the onion fly, which sometimes attacks garlic.

But this effect is very short-lived. After rain or watering, the concentration of saline solution in the soil decreases and the garlic continues to turn yellow.

When garlic leaves turn yellow, it is necessary to use time-tested and experience-tested products that reliably protect plants from adverse effects.

Why garlic leaves may turn yellow video: