Buy wisteria in the Urals. Caring for seedlings. Frost-resistant wisteria macrostachy "Blue Moon"

Chinese wisteria, plant description

Wisteria or Wisteria (Wisteria) is a tree-like plant belonging to the Legume family. This is a subtropical liana with large clusters of fragrant flowers in lilac, white, and scarlet shades.

The word "wisteria" has Greek origin, and is translated as “sweet”. The second name of the vine - wisteria - comes from the name of the scientist Caspar Wistar, who described this plant in detail.

The wisteria genus contains 9 species of vines, which are widespread in countries with a humid subtropical climate (China, USA, Crimea, southern Russia). There are also frost-resistant varieties of wisteria that are successfully grown in regions with different climates, but they do not tolerate wintering well and often freeze out in harsh winters. Wisteria is also widely used for growing small indoor bonsai trees.

Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensi) is native to China, where it grows wild in forests. The plant has dense foliage of large size and complex shape: each wisteria leaf can grow up to 30 cm in length, has an odd-pinnate structure and consists of 8-12 small leaves. Its shoots often grow up to 20 cm in height and densely cover trees, walls and other tall structures.

Wisteria blooms from May to July, covered with rich clusters of inflorescences of all shades of purple, less often white. In the presence of suitable soil and enough sun, wisteria will bloom again in September. Its fragrant flowers are collected in graceful 40-centimeter clusters, which bloom simultaneously. The plant blooms 3-10 years after planting, depending on the varietal characteristics.

Chinese wisteria, common varieties

The Chinese variety of wisteria has several varieties. Most of them are purple and lilac in color, but there are also plants with white double inflorescences.

The most common varieties of Chinese wisteria are:

• Blue Sapphire is a charming vine with violet-blue flowers. This variety begins to bloom in May, less often flowering begins in mid-summer. The delicate racemose inflorescences of Chinese blue sapphire wisteria grow up to 25 cm and exude a very intense, even sickly sweet aroma. Wisteria foliage has a gray-green tint, and with the arrival of autumn it turns yellow. The vine grows up to 6 m in height, twisting clockwise on the support. Annual growth 2 m.

• Amethyst is an early flowering variety of wisteria. Long inflorescences are painted in dark shades purple in the first days of May and delight the eye until the end of summer. The aroma of this variety is the most intense compared to other types. This Chinese wisteria is not winter hardy, so it requires careful shelter for the winter.

• Prolific is a beautiful flowering plant with bluish-purple flowers with a white base. Wisteria blooms very quickly (already in the 3rd year) and grows up to 2 m if planted against a strong support, such as a wall or fence. It takes root well and grows in moderately fertile and not very wet soil.

• Southern Belle is a delicate vine with white-purple inflorescences and a moderately intense aroma. The peak of flowering occurs in mid-May, and begins to subside by mid-summer. The plant prefers sunny areas and moist soil. Looks great on verandas, gazebos, pergolas.

• Texas White - dwarf variety wisteria, which grows up to 2.5 m in height. Wisteria blooms in the second year of life, densely covered with long inflorescences of creamy white color. White wisteria prefers warm, sheltered places with loose soil. Perfectly covers trellises, fences, small gazebos and trees.

Chinese wisteria, planting

If climatic conditions allow, every gardener can grow tall, densely flowering wisteria. If planting rules are followed, the plant easily adapts to urban conditions, and with careful care it can easily withstand wintering.

Selecting a location

Wisteria - heat-loving unpretentious plant, which grows well in sunny areas or partial shade. The plant is very light-loving, so the area with wisteria should receive light for at least 5-6 hours a day. At the same time, you need to protect wisteria from cold and strong winds, so the best solution would be to plant it near the southern walls of the house.

Since wisteria is used for vertical gardening, it is necessary to provide it with a stable or durable support that can withstand multi-meter shoots and protect the plant from breaking.

When choosing a location, it is worth considering that wisteria is a perennial. It is very difficult to transplant it, since the root system grows a couple of meters deep into the ground. Therefore, before planting, think twice about where you will plant it.

Soil preparation

There are no special soil requirements, but it is better to plant wisteria in a moderately fertile, light and moist substrate. The soil should be easily breathable and not retain moisture.

Wisteria does not take root well and often gets sick in calcareous soil. At the same time, the plant begins to develop chlorosis, which can be recognized by the leaves that have become very light and have lost their decorative effect. Also, wisteria does not like nitrogenous soil. If you overdo it with fertilizer, the plant will stop blooming.

To provide wisteria nutrients It’s better to prepare the soil yourself and fill the planting hole with it. To do this, you need to mix part peat, part humus, part sand and three parts turf soil. This will be enough for the rooting and active growth of wisteria.

Landing rules

Before planting, wisteria sprouts need to be soaked in water for half an hour. For a small plant, you need to prepare a planting hole 50x50x40 cm. You need to lay the prepared substrate on the bottom with a ball of 8-10 cm. You need to bury the plant 10 cm deeper than it grew before transplanting. Bark is poured on top of the ground around the wisteria.

Wisteria is planted at a distance of 30 cm from the support and other plants.

Saplings Chinese wisteria may not show signs of growth for a long time, so do not worry if the plant does not grow for the first two or three weeks. During the first time after planting, wisteria devotes all its energy to rooting and only after a little time it sprouts thin shoots.

Chinese wisteria, garden care

Wisteria can hardly be called an overly demanding plant. Caring for and propagating vines does not require much time and only involves following simple rules of agricultural technology.

Watering and fertilizing wisteria

The plant needs moderate watering. You need to ensure that the soil is moderately moist and does not dry out. During the budding period, it is necessary to additionally moisten the soil if the season was without rain. This will prevent the buds from falling off. During the hot season better plant spray, since increased watering can lead to stagnation of water near the roots. Starting in September, watering is reduced in order to prepare the wisteria for wintering.

To ensure abundant and regular flowering, fertilizers must be applied. The best option is to alternate liquid mineral and organic fertilizers (mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20 to water). They begin to apply fertilizers during the active phase of the growing season.

For the necessary reactions to occur in the soil, you need to water the wisteria with chalk water twice a season (100 g per bucket).

The main condition for the annual flowering of Chinese wisteria is the cultivation of the vine, taking into account all the requirements of the plant's agricultural technology. It blooms upon reaching three years of age in May-April, and blooms for a long time, capturing June.

Pruning wisteria

Wilted inflorescences need to be removed and dried branches trimmed. Young shoots can be tied up, giving them the right direction for growth.

Pruning of wisteria is carried out to form the crown, as well as to stimulate abundant flowering. It involves removing young shoots that interfere with the flowering clusters. Flowers appear only on last year's or even older shoots, so spring pruning will not reduce the splendor of flowering. It is necessary to carry out pruning, otherwise you may not wait for flowering next year.

Formative pruning is carried out in the summer: young shoots are pruned by 30-40 cm, young growth is shortened by 4-6 buds (no more than 20 cm) at the end of August.

If you are growing a non-frost-resistant wisteria variety in a region with cold winters, new shoots of the vine should be tied up regularly. This is done in order to prevent the branches from twisting around the support, which will greatly complicate the preparation of the plant for wintering.

Chinese wisteria is moderately frost-resistant and can easily tolerate air temperature drops down to -20⁰C.

Wisteria can be grown both in open ground and in pots and tubs. Caring for it is no different, but plants grown in flowerpots must be moved to rooms with an air humidity level of at least 70% for the winter.

Watering should be carried out as the top layer of soil dries. In spring, young side shoots are pruned to form beautiful crown. With the arrival of summer warmth, wisteria is again taken outside.

Wintering wisteria

Sheltering wisteria for the winter is carried out in the same way as for climbing roses. Before the onset of cold weather, the root area is hilled up, the vine is separated from the support, placed on a tree trunk shield, covered with a ball of dry foliage, and then covered with spunbond. If the winter is snowless, the wisteria is additionally covered with spruce branches or agrofibre.

Such measures are aimed at protecting the root system and old shoots. Freezing of new shoots does not pose a threat to the plant, since they are always pruned in the spring.

Propagation of Chinese wisteria

Wisteria is propagated in different ways, but most often they use seed and vegetative methods.

Seed method

Chinese wisteria seeds reproduce extremely reluctantly, so this method is used only by experienced gardeners.

To germinate Chinese wisteria seeds, a mixture of sand, leaf soil, and turf soil is used as soil. Containers with sown seeds are covered with transparent material, creating a greenhouse effect. In this case, the soil is regularly sprayed using a spray bottle. Keep the sown seeds in a dark place at a temperature of 25⁰C for a month. After this time, the first shoots appear and the plant is brought into the light.

When the first two leaves appear, wisteria seedlings dive into separate containers without separating the earthen coma. Disinfection must be carried out with a solution of potassium permanganate. For hardening, the seedlings are gradually adapted to outdoor conditions: they are taken out to a cool place for a few minutes every day.

Unfortunately, it is difficult to obtain full germination of Chinese wisteria seeds using this method; reviews from gardeners indicate only 25% germination. At the same time, many note that with this method of propagation, wisteria blooms reluctantly, and may never please with fragrant clusters of inflorescences.

It is better to buy Chinese wisteria with a well-developed and closed root system. This way you will be sure that all varietal characteristics will be preserved and the plant will not go wild. Small shoots are not worth buying; they grow slowly, bloom very late and are not so lush.

Vegetative method

If you already grow wisteria in the garden, you can easily propagate it by layering.

In the spring, after the temperature has normalized, an oblique cut is made in the middle of a strong annual shoot. Next, the shoot bends, and the cut site is placed in a container with turf-clay soil. In this position, the shoot must be secured, leaving the top in a free position. For rooting, you can use a weak solution of indolylacetic acid. By mid-August, a root system will appear at the site of the cut, but the sprout will separate only the next year.

Pests and diseases of wisteria

Wisteria rarely gets sick. Sometimes young buds become infected with blast disease, and if the soil becomes too alkaline, chlorosis appears on the foliage.

The plant can be attacked by various pests. More often the plant is damaged by leafhoppers and aphids, less often by caterpillars and mites. Acaricides help get rid of ticks, and other pests are fought with insecticides.

Chinese wisteria in landscape design

Wisteria is very popular in ornamental plantings. This vine is capable of entwining any frame base in one season or forming into a standard tree. This “garden climber” is often used to decorate gazebos, open terraces and balconies.

Thanks to its vertical growth, wisteria occupies a minimum of garden space, while creating a stunning decorative effect.

Chinese wisteria grows well along various buildings, so it is used to camouflage less than attractive structures or as a hedge to protect from the sun.

Chinese wisteria, photo

Anyone who has ever seen wisteria bloom will never forget the impression it left. This plant can be used to decorate a gazebo, a wall, the entrance to a house or garden arch. But it only grows mainly in warm regions - in the Crimea or the Caucasus, for example. In other latitudes, heat-loving wisteria will not produce such abundant and beautiful flowering without proper care.

Wisteria flower - planting and care

Tree-like and climbing, it belongs to the subtropical plants of the legume family. It begins to bloom in the spring and delights all summer long with its light purple or white tassels. The second name for wisteria is wisteria. Wisteria grows as vines, so it needs care, namely, reliable supports along which they (the vines) will climb up and to the sides.

There are two ways to plant wisteria - layering or seeds. Cuttings should be selected from one-year-old mature shoots 20-25 cm in length. They are rooted in a soil mixture of turf soil, peat, sand and humus in a ratio of 3:1:1:1. And already at the end of summer, the rooted sprouts are planted in open ground.

The second method of growing, with seeds, is much more difficult. They can be planted in a greenhouse in November or in open ground in the spring. At the same time, they need leaf soil, turf with sand in a ratio of 4: 1: 1. After sowing the seeds, they need to be covered with film to ensure moisture. We place the greenhouses in a dark place for 3-4 weeks. Then we take them out into the light and pick them as soon as the first two leaves appear.

Wisteria - growing conditions

When you grow wisteria, you need to follow certain rules and comply with several important conditions. For example, the place for planting the plant should be sunny, since this is what ensures its abundant flowering.

The plant, as already mentioned, is climbing and needs strong supports. Wisteria does not tolerate strong humidity, so in spring and summer you need to water it very sparingly, just keeping the soil slightly moist. The soil itself should be light and nutritious.

If you do not live in the southern regions, then you definitely need to cover your wisteria for the winter. Some varieties do not tolerate frosts above -20°C. To ensure abundant flowering, the plant needs to be pruned 2 times: the first - immediately after flowering, the second - after the leaves fall. As a result, there should be no side branches left on the plant, except for 3-5 buds.

Wisteria - care and cultivation at home

If you live in a latitude where it is completely impossible to grow this plant outside year-round, don’t worry. Wisteria can be planted in a large flowerpot in the form of a standard tree. In the cold season, the tree will live in a room with a temperature of 8-10°C, but in the summer it can be taken outside.

In this case, it is especially important to form the crown by trimming the side shoots to 2-3 buds. It is necessary to water the plant regularly while it is outside, while during the dormant period watering is practically reduced to nothing.

Types of wisteria

There are several varieties of the plant:

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Wisteria: planting and growing from seeds, care, photo

How does wisteria reproduce?

The easiest way to propagate wisteria is by cuttings. To do this, in late autumn the vine is cut and stored in a cold place, first placing it in a moist substrate. With the onset of spring, the prepared branches are planted in greenhouses or in a permanent place of growth.

Wisteria is grafted in the month of December or green shoots of the current year are planted in the summer. They often resort to the sowing method, which requires special attention and proper care.

Location of wisteria on the site

On open area Wisteria, as a rule, does not bloom, so the south side of a house or fence is perfect for it. During the cold season, provide the plant with an air temperature of 8-10°C.

Growing wisteria from seeds

Preparing and planting seeds

Seeds are planted in late autumn or December. Sorted seeds retain their quality for three years if stored in a dry place. Before planting, treat them with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Sowing occurs in several steps:

1. Select containers for seedlings.
2. Prepare a special soil, which consists of turf soil - three quarters of rotted humus, peat and sand in 1:1 proportions.
3. Sow the seeds on the prepared mixture and sprinkle with a small layer of sand.
4. Carefully spray the soil with a spray bottle so that the seeds do not end up outside.
5. Cover the container with future seedlings with glass or film and place in a dark place with an air temperature of 22-25°C.
6. The first shoots will appear after 3-4 weeks.
7. 1-2 weeks after germination, move the container with seedlings closer to the light.
8. When the seedling has a pair of true leaves, transplant it into a separate container along with the soil.

Seedling care

Wisteria seedlings need good lighting and regular watering. The main thing is to avoid excessive moisture in the early stages of plant development. Closer to the time of planting in open ground, regularly take containers with seedlings out into the air for several hours a day.

Planting seedlings in open ground

Planting in the ground is carried out with the onset of spring:

1. Pre-dig up the area for seedlings and apply mineral fertilizers with the calculation of 25-30 g per 1 m?.
2. Dig holes 60×60×50 cm across the entire area.
3. Place the seedlings one by one in the depressions along with the soil on the rhizomes, water generously and sprinkle with soil.
4. In the first years of life, wisteria forms only thin shoots.

Wisteria care

Caring for wisteria should be accompanied by regular watering, but not excessive, so that the soil is slightly moist. With the onset of autumn, watering is gradually reduced.

We must not forget about fertilizing, especially during the growing season. Use store-bought mineral mixtures or home-prepared organic substances as fertilizers. Once a season, wisteria is watered with chalk water.

Pruning wisteria

Proper pruning is the key to lush flowering of wisteria:

1. At the end of spring, trim old shoots to 30 cm.
2. Trim branches on the sides by 20-40 cm in midsummer.
3. Closer to autumn, shorten the young shoots by 4-5 buds.
4. Trim flowers only from last year's wood or short shoots from the current year.
5. Shorten the growth of old branches by 2-3 buds after releasing the wisteria from its winter shelter.

How does wisteria overwinter?

If possible, move the plant to a warm room with an air temperature of 8-10°C. If this is difficult to do, cover the wisteria outside.

With the onset of autumn, they stop loosening the soil, and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is replaced with potash fertilizers. Cover the wisteria after the air temperature has reached -5°C. To do this, the vines are freed from their supports, damaged shoots are cut off, and the rest are simply cleared of leaves. The branches are tied with rope and pressed to the ground with hooks. Cover the wisteria with dry leaves and branches so that the plant has the opportunity to breathe.

Yulia Petrichenko, expert

Diseases and pests of wisteria

The enemies of wisteria are pest inhabitants of garden trees and crops: aphids, mites. Spraying with special means, if necessary, will get rid of annoying visitors.

The plant is resistant to various diseases, with the exception of powdery mildew, and with proper care it can live more than 100 years.

To grow wisteria on your site, it is important to adhere to the basic rules of planting and care. Which type of wisteria do you prefer? How long have you been growing vines?

grassia.ru

Frost-resistant wisteria macrostachy "Blue Moon"

Wisteria, or wisteria, is a popular flowering vine. They grow quickly, winter successfully and bloom stunningly in many countries with mild climates. It is not surprising that gardeners, fascinated by the beauty of blooming wisteria, want to have such a wonderful plant on their site!

Many residents of central Russia, having seen the lush bloom of wisteria while vacationing in the Crimea, on the Black Sea coast or in warm foreign countries, they only sighed with regret... After all, when trying to grow wisteria in the open ground of your garden, as a rule, disappointment set in. IN best case scenario, several modest inflorescences appeared on a wisteria seedling, and in the worst case, the planted wisteria died after the first winter.

These unsuccessful attempts by Russian gardeners to grow wisteria in their garden are quite natural, since until recently only heat-loving species of wisteria could be found on sale in our country. Our gardeners are usually offered either wisteria chinensis(Wisteria chinensis), or wisteria profusely blooming, or multi-flowered (Wisteria floribunda), or their numerous decorative forms. Unfortunately, these types of wisteria can tolerate temperatures down to -20 degrees, and only for a very short period of cooling.

Growing Blue Moon wisteria in our garden

Wisteria settled in our garden several years ago (spring 2008). Moreover, at that time, the acquisition of wisteria was rather an impulsive act, dictated by necessity. We made a rest area on our site and placed a support over it. We needed an interesting vine that would form a shadow over the benches. The choice of beautiful lianas in our climate is small, but I wanted to plant something unusual...

We were offered to buy cold-resistant wisteria, which can withstand even severe frosts (-40C). That's how we got it wisteria macrostachia, or large cyst (Wisteria macrostachya). And my acquaintance with her variety “Blue Moon” (“Blue Moon”, translated as “Blue Moon”) began. The homeland of this plant is the USA, Minnesota.

The purchased wisteria seedling was small, no more than 30 cm long. Now, looking back, I can honestly admit: at that moment I had great doubts that this baby would quickly braid the provided support and provide at least some shade... I talked about the flowering of wisteria then I didn't even dream of it.

Imagine my surprise when a wisteria seedling planted in early June (in standard Voronezh black soil) began to develop rapidly a month after adaptation. By August the height of the plant was more than two meters!

Before the onset of the first frost, we removed the wisteria from the support - along with the ropes to which its shoots clung. They laid the vine on boards and covered it with moss and lutrasil.

The growth of the annual bloom of Wisteria "Blue Moon"

After a successful wintering, already in the second year of its life in our garden, wisteria “Blue Moon” pleased us with its first two inflorescences in June. Although they were still small, the main thing is that the young wisteria bloomed!

Before the second wintering, it was no longer possible to remove our powerful wisteria from its support. The winter turned out to be very cold, and we were worried about our vine. But our worries were in vain: even the young growth of the vine was not affected by severe frosts(-34C).

Photo: two-year-old wisteria; wisteria inflorescence; wisteria fruits

And by the third summer, our expanded wisteria already had 46 full-fledged inflorescences! Moreover, which also surprised me a lot - after flowering, seeds began to form on the wisteria vine! By autumn, the wisteria seeds are fully ripe. I collected the ripened beans with seeds.

Fruiting of wisteria macrostachy and sowing seeds

I sowed one third of the wisteria seeds in a box immediately after collection and left it in the garden to undergo natural stratification.

I stored the remaining wisteria seeds in a cool place (+10C) until spring. At the beginning of March I sowed them in light soil. Kept the wisteria crops warm, at a temperature of + 25C. My experience has shown that Wisteria Macrostachia seeds begin to germinate already on the fifth day. The germination rate of these seeds was almost one hundred percent.

Photo: wisteria shoots; wisteria seedlings

In the garden in the spring, I saw that the seeds of Wisteria Macrostachia, which had undergone cold stratification, also sprouted. However, their germination rate was no more than 60 percent.

And last spring (2011) I discovered self-seeding in our wisteria. The shoots appeared from the seeds that fell in April from the few beans that I left to overwinter on the vine. This fact is the most important evidence of the successful adaptation of Wisteria macrostachy. After this, we can say with complete confidence that our flowering and fruiting plant is fully adapted to local climatic conditions.

Study of the preservation of varietal characteristics in wisteria seedlings

Now it’s too early to talk about prospects (or vice versa) seed propagation wisteria macrostachia variety "Blue Moon". Regarding this wisteria, no one can unequivocally state how high the percentage of failure of varietal characteristics is in plants grown from seeds. This will show the flowering of my wisteria seedlings (and whether they will bloom at all...). Such studies have not yet been conducted at the professional level.

I planted some of my last year’s wisteria seedlings in open ground, and left them there in the first winter. In the spring of this year (2012) it will already be possible to draw at least some conclusions regarding the winter hardiness of Wisteria macrostachy seedlings; but, alas, not their flowering.

Only vegetatively propagated planting material wisteria gives complete confidence in the preservation of all varietal characteristics of the plant.

Pruning and vegetative propagation of wisteria

I haven’t yet worked on the formation of our wisteria as such. Recommendations for pruning wisteria found on the Internet turned out to be very contradictory. That’s why I haven’t cut our vine even once, and it grows “in free flight.” I think that given the strength of its growth, it will be difficult to give wisteria a strict shape...

Last summer I planted another specimen of winter-hardy wisteria in the garden - specifically for experiments in shaping, and I will start doing this this year.

One young wisteria has been growing in my 5-liter pot for two years now - I’ll try to form it into a potted plant, but that’s still to come...

About vegetative propagation wisteria (cuttings and layering) I can say that there are no difficulties in this matter. In order to obtain cuttings, I cut off some shoots of wisteria. At the same time, I choose shoots for propagation without any rules, purely intuitively: I liked the whip, I cut it off mother plant and cut into cuttings.

Flowering of a 4-year-old wisteria macrostachia vine

During the three years of life of our wisteria macrostachy “Blue Moon,” the development and flowering of which I described in detail earlier, the number of its inflorescences could still be counted. But already the fourth season of growing wisteria has exceeded all my expectations in terms of the abundance of its flowering - it has become impossible to count the numerous inflorescences!

According to the stated characteristics, the wisteria macrostachy “Blue Moon” should undergo three waves of flowering over the summer. I have not yet observed this in our four-year-old vine. Its abundant flowering lasts more than a month. Wisteria inflorescences exposed to bright sun are the first to bloom. A little later, those inflorescences that are shaded by the openwork leaves of the vine bloom.

In the photo: abundant flowering of Blue Moon wisteria

In our garden, the first wave of wisteria flowering occurs in late May-early June. Believe me, this is a wonderful sight worthy of admiration! The lilac-blue flowers of Wisteria macrostachy "Blue Moon" have an amazing scent, and its cascading inflorescences resemble huge bunches of grapes. The support along which we let the vine grow in the first years of its life is located not far from the window. The enchanting aroma of beautiful wisteria flowers penetrates the room.

“...and the house is bewitched Anna Akhmatova

Prospects for growing wisteria macrostachia in the middle zone

Four years of observations of our wisteria vine, of course, do not yet provide grounds for drawing categorical conclusions about various aspects of its cultivation in middle lane. It remains to be found out: where on the territory of our country are the northernmost borders that allow the successful cultivation of wisteria macrostachy “Blue Moon”. Even the microclimate of a specific area will play a role here, not to mention regions and regions.

But taking into account the fact that in the recent severe winter (2009-2010) my young wisteria suffered frosts of -34C, and after such an extreme wintering it bloomed, I can afford to express my opinion. I have no doubt that this wisteria variety has a great future in central Russia. I think that today the wisteria macrostachy “Blue Moon” hardly has any worthy competitors in terms of vertical gardening. After all, the growth of this beautifully flowering vine over the summer is 4-5 meters!

The success of wisteria flowering depends not on winter cold, but on the sum of positive summer temperatures. It is important to find a suitable location for this vine in the garden. In a favorable place, the vigor of wisteria growth and the abundance of its flowering will be many times greater - precisely because good landing seedling. Our wisteria grows near the brick wall of the house (on the south side), which gives it additional warmth in the summer - what this vine needs. During a prolonged spring, wisteria unfurls its leaves and opens its buds relatively late.

In the conditions of our garden, wisteria “Blue Moon” in just four years created a gorgeous green wall and the “ceiling” in the family recreation corner (see title photo).

Now we no longer have a question about building or purchasing a gazebo. Indeed, even in the hottest time, the abundant foliage of wisteria provides such dense shade that the summer heat is not felt under it. The liana retains its green outfit throughout the fall, until snow falls.

Wisteria macrostachia shoots will easily twine around any support that is provided - be it an arch, a pergola or any type of trellis. The main thing that supporting structure was strong enough to support the weight of this large vine. You can plant wisteria along a strong fence, on the south side. Wisteria macrostachya “Blue Moon” growing in the garden long years will delight you with its unforgettable flowering and aroma.

gardenia.ru

Growing heat-loving wisteria

Wisteria leaves an indelible impression on those who have seen it bloom at least once. Wisteria can be planted near the gazebo, in front of the entrance to the house, or decorate a bare wall with it. For true flower growers, there is one sad fact - it is extremely thermophilic and can grow at full strength only in the southern regions: in the Caucasus, Crimea, and Transcarpathia. There it blooms very long and abundantly. In more northern regions, it needs good shelter in winter.

This tree-like climbing subtropical plant from the legume family blooms in the spring and can delight the eye throughout the summer. Wisteria is also called wisteria (lat. Wisteria). It blooms in light purple or white racemes about 30 cm long.

Planting wisteria

There are two ways to plant wisteria:

• Layering in spring and summer. For cuttings, we select annual mature shoots 20-25 cm long. They need to be rooted in soil made of turf soil, peat, humus and sand (3: 1: 1: 1). At the end of summer, the rooted cuttings are planted.
• Seeds. Note that the method is much more complicated than the first. You can plant seeds in greenhouses in November-December or in the ground in spring. The soil should be loose - leafy soil, turf soil and sand (4:1:1). Cover the crops with glass or plastic bag for high humidity. And we put it in a dark place - this is important. Shoots should appear only after 3-4 weeks. Then we take the seedlings out into the light, shading them slightly, and prick them when the first 2 leaves appear.

Growing wisteria

When growing, you must provide wisteria with the following factors:

• Bright sun. For abundant flowering, wisteria should be in the sun for at least half a day.
• Strong supports along which wisteria, which will grow strongly over time, will curl.
• Moderate watering from spring to late summer - the soil should be kept slightly moist. Doesn't tolerate excess water well.
• Light nutritious soil.
• Top dressing liquid fertilizer once a week during the budding period.
• A good shelter in winter, especially in central Russia. There are varieties that can withstand -20 °C, but no more.
• Pruning at least 2 times for more abundant flowering. The first is at the end of flowering, while all side shoots are shortened by two-thirds. The second is after leaf fall. Everything is cut off lateral branches, leaving only 3-5 buds.

If your climate does not allow growing wisteria in open ground, do not despair. Plant it in flowerpots in the form of a standard tree. In the fall, it will need to be brought into a room with a temperature of about 8-10°C and watered sparingly. In spring, young side shoots are pruned to 2-3 good buds - this is how the crown is formed. In the summer they take it out again open air and water frequently.

Types of wisteria

• Chinese wisteria(Wisteriachinensis) has showy light purple or, less commonly, white flowers. It can grow up to 15-20 m. The foliage is dense, the clusters of inflorescences are 30 cm long. It blooms almost all summer. It produces fruits - beans up to 15 cm long. Widely distributed in the south of Russia and, accordingly, is very thermophilic. If the vine is systematically pruned, it can be grown in a tree-like standard form.

• Abundantly flowering or multi-flowered wisteria(Wisteria floribunda) with violet-blue flowers. Reaches 8-10 m. The brushes of this wisteria are longer than the previous one - 50 cm. And it blooms 2-3 weeks later. It is more frost-resistant (down to -23 ° C) than Chinese wisteria.

• Wisteria is beautiful(Wisteria venusta) with double white and purple flowers. Capable of growing up to 10 m. The length of the inflorescences is about 20 cm. Flowering continues from May to June. The fruits are beans measuring 20 cm.

• Wisteria bush(Wisteria frutescens) is violet-blue and smaller in size than Wisteria venusta. Reaches 12 m in height. It has been growing in Crimea since ancient times. Can be grown in a container.

• Japanese wisteria(Wisteria japonica) has white flowers. Less frost-hardy and beautiful than other species. Grows on the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus.

If you decide to have wisteria in your garden and you have all the conditions for this, do not forget to plant with it, for example, white tulips, dark purple hyacinths and yellow daffodils. All these flowers go well with wisteria.

By the way, if you want to truly appreciate the beauty of this plant, be sure to visit the wisteria garden, which is located in Japan, Ashikaga, Honshu Island. This is truly an unforgettable sight!!!

zakustom.com

Is it possible to grow Wisteria (Wisteria) in Siberia?..vn++

Elena Rudkovskaya

They can write anything, except for a mild winter, wisteria needs a long growing season and a large amount of active temperatures. There is only one variety that grows well in temperate climates, called Blue Moon, but there is little hope for it in Siberia. Please indicate your climate more precisely - Siberia is large, to put it mildly.

Polina Shubina

Why not.. . in a tub culture or if you have a greenhouse heated in winter.

OLESYA

Can. But such flowering does not happen even in Ukraine. It blooms, but not much.

Wisteria tree (wisteria) - Online magazine about gardening and landscape design

The more heat-loving the plant, the more magnificent and unusual it is able to bloom. It just so happens that the most exotic and beautiful plants- people from tropical latitudes. The wisteria tree, or wisteria as it is also called, is a heat-loving species and cannot tolerate ambient temperatures falling below 20 degrees Celsius. It is very difficult to grow this southern miracle in the garden of the Moscow region, but everything is possible if you try and believe in yourself.

This material discusses the main varieties of wisteria, rules for planting and growing in various climatic conditions. You can see photos of blooming wisteria and options for using wisteria for landscape design of a personal plot:

Wisteria flowers or vine - description and photo of the plant

There is constant debate among florists about determining the species of this plant. Flowers or liana? More like a tree. Wisteria belongs to the legume family and grows naturally in southern and tropical regions. Does not experience any problems with growth, development and abundant flowering in the climatic conditions of the Crimean peninsula, Kuban, North Caucasus, Mineral waters. It is there that you can see unusual tunnels, entwined pergolas and decorated hedges using similar vines.

When describing the plant, it should immediately be clarified that during cold, harsh and long winters, only root system and young shoots. And flowering occurs only on vines that have reached the age of 6-8 years. Moreover, in the Moscow region, in cold and rainy summer conditions, it is extremely difficult to force wisteria to bloom. She needs plenty sun rays and constant ambient temperature without sudden changes at night and during the day.

At suitable conditions To grow a wisteria flower, it blooms 2 times per season. The first clusters bloom in early spring before the feathery leaves appear. The second wave of flowering occurs at the beginning of August. The Latin name of the culture is Wisteria.

It is a lignified vine that does not have rapid growth. Usually, during a season, an increase in the vegetative mass of shoots is achieved by only 20 - 30 cm. It can grow to the height of the wall 5-7 years after planting. The large leafy mass perfectly decorates any surface, but the racemose inflorescences, whose length reaches 35 cm, are of particular interest.

Look at the photo of wisteria at the moment of its flowering - this is a magnificent sight, striking the imagination with its beauty and grace:

When growing frost-resistant wisteria from seeds, there is a chance in the Urals and in the Moscow region

If you carefully read the description of this botanical culture, the first thing that attracts your attention is the exactingness of wisteria to the temperature conditions of its growth. Most species are not resistant to even minimal temperature changes and when the ambient temperature drops below 10 degrees Celsius, the vine dies. Although new shoots from the root system may appear next year, they will be of very little use. Re-frozen wisteria blooms no earlier than 7 years later.

Growing wisteria in the Moscow region requires a special approach to storing the plant in the winter. As a rule, the optimal result is obtained when using container cultivation. But it is worth considering that to accommodate an adult vine you will need a container with a volume of at least 40 liters. Garden barrels, plastic hot tubs and much more are used. In the autumn, until the first snow falls, the container is brought into a warm room, where in winter minimal additional lighting and watering are provided once a week. In winter, no fertilizing is necessary. At the beginning of March, the plant is taken into a bright room and active watering begins 2-3 times a week. Foliage can be sprayed with solutions containing growth stimulants.

Wisteria is grown in a similar way in the Urals and other regions of risky farming. This is quite labor-intensive, but the result is worth it, especially since the inquisitive minds of amateur gardeners have already found alternative ways of cultivating this crop in areas with harsh climates.

As practice shows, when growing wisteria from seeds, even in the Urals and Moscow region, there is a chance to get abundant double flowering in the summer and autumn seasons. This method is characterized by a long wait for the tree to mature. Growing wisteria begins with choosing the right variety. Here you need to pay attention to the cold-resistant hybrids of the F1 series. They should be regionalized as much as possible. Plants grown from seeds obtained in the conditions of future growth of the crop are distinguished by good resistance.

Look at the photo of frost-resistant wisteria grown in the Urals and Moscow region:

Planting wisteria seedlings and seeds and subsequent plant care

In the presence of favorable climatic conditions effective method propagation vines are prepared, pre-grown planting material. Wisteria seedlings are offered by many agricultural companies engaged in professional breeding rare plants. In this case, the procedure for planting wisteria is not difficult: a plot of land is prepared, holes up to 20 cm deep are dug, nutritious soil, humus and mineral fertilizers are placed in them, and direct rooting is carried out.

Watering after planting is carried out daily, 2-2.5 liters for each plant. It is effective to mulch the soil with fresh mown grass. This ensures that the optimal level of soil moisture is maintained even during dry periods of summer.

Reproduction in the future is possible by the method of cuttings and rooting of layering obtained during pruning from an adult tree. To do this, shoots over 1 year old are selected and cut into cuttings up to 25 cm long. The cut is processed with crushed coal or wood ash and dries. After this, digging is carried out to a depth of 5 cm in a mixture of turf soil, humus and sand. After 40 - 45 days, the cutting develops a powerful root system and can be transplanted to a permanent “place of residence.”

Planting wisteria with seeds will require patience from the gardener due to the extremely slow growth and development of the plant in the first 5 years. Sowing is carried out in the first half of February; germination requires high levels of humidity, high temperature (about 30 degrees Celsius) and complete darkness. Therefore, the container is covered with black polyethylene and placed in the warmest place in the house or apartment. The first shoots can be seen after 1 calendar month. In the phase of 4 true leaves, picking is carried out in a container with a volume of at least 500 ml. During the period of growing wisteria seedlings, the sprouts should be protected from exposure to direct sunlight and monitor constant moisture soil mixture. Feeding is carried out once a week with complex mineral compounds dissolved in water.

Subsequent care of the wisteria plant includes providing favorable conditions for its growth. In order to get abundant flowering, a long daylight hours is required, the sun should shine for at least 12 hours. If this does not happen, the inflorescences become small and less expressive in color.

Light and well-structured soil with mandatory drainage to remove excess moisture ensures rapid and stable growth of wisteria vines.

During the formation of buds, caring for wisteria includes the addition of mineral and organic fertilizers 1 time every 3 days. This is important to ensure the rich color of the inflorescences.

During 1 growing season, 2 planned prunings are carried out in order to form a lush crown. The first pruning is required in the spring, when no more than 5 strong axillary buds are left on the shoots. The second pruning is carried out in the fall, before the vine leaves for the winter.

By the way, with a sufficient level of insulation and shelter, the plant can easily overwinter in the open ground if the ambient temperature in the area where it grows does not drop below minus 20 degrees Celsius. In all other cases, it is advisable to grow the crop in containers, which are brought into a heated room for the winter.

Types and varieties of wisteria: “Chinese”, “Blue Moon” and “Makrostachia” (with photo)

Plant species known today number more than 100 varieties. The most popular are wisteria “Chinese” and “Macrostachy”. All varieties of wisteria known to modern gardeners have lush flowering and a long period of ongoing budding. Due to the last factor, flowering can continue almost continuously for 2-3 months.

Look at the photo of wisteria varieties - among them you can choose a suitable collection for your garden, balcony and patio decoration:

Chinese wisteria has the Latin name Wisteria chinensis. This is the most common species, including subspecies with varied bud colors. Purple and lilac flowers are often found; blue shades and white undertones are less common. When correct managed care The liana grows up to 20 meters. It has racemose inflorescences up to 40 cm. After they bloom, pod-shaped beans up to 12 cm long are formed. Seeds ripen in them.

No less interesting is Glycina “Floribunda”, characterized by its multi-flowered bud shape. Their length can reach half a meter, and the flowering period is 2 weeks longer. In addition, “Floribunda” perfectly tolerates short-term frosts down to minus 23 degrees Celsius.

Wisteria "Blue Moon" has beautiful blue and white inflorescences, which gradually change their color to a more saturated one. This plant is perfect for landscaping balconies and terraces.

LovGarden.ru

Wisteria, wisteria growing on a pergola and gazebo - photo.

Heat-loving wisteria vine widely used in pergola landscaping, gazebos or simply vertical gardening in the south, as well as in regions with mild winter. Wisteria lives up to 150 years. Wisteria grows up to 20 m high; the genus Wisteria or Wisteria includes 9 species. The plant is deciduous, native to North America and East Asia.

Wisteria on a pergola or gazebo.

For landscaping pergolas and gazebos, 2 types of wisteria are interesting: Chinese wisteria— W. chinensis (Sims.) Sweet

The liana, originally from China, reaches a height of 15-20 m. Flowering begins in the spring and sometimes persists (individual flowering clusters) throughout the summer. The fruit is a bean up to 15 cm long. The flowers are showy light purple clusters of flowers, less often white, in hanging loose racemes 20-30 cm long.

Chinese wisteria is a very light-loving plant that is demanding on the soil. It tolerates city conditions and short-term temperature drops down to -20°C. It grows very quickly. Mainly used V vertical gardening in the south of Russia.

With systematic care and special pruning you can grow in a tree-like, erect, standard form, using for planting on lawns. There are two garden forms in culture: white - with white flowers; and terry - with double flowers.

Wisteria is profusely flowering or multi-flowered.

This type of wisteria comes from Japan. It is very similar to Chinese wisteria, but differs from it in smaller vines (8-10 m), larger leaves up to 40 cm, a large number of flowers and inflorescence sizes up to 50 cm. The flowers are violet-blue. It blooms 2-3 weeks later than Chinese wisteria.

The liana is more frost-resistant, withstands temperatures down to -23 degrees and in my opinion more beautiful than Chinese wisteria. Wisteria, which blooms profusely, is widely used in landscaping pergolas and gazebos; to display its long tassels, a lattice-shaped roof is desirable. However, it is appreciated wisteria lushflower not only for the beautiful flowers, but also for the abundance beautiful leaves and spectacular fruits.

Garden forms developed: - white wisteria, with white flowers, in inflorescences up to 60 cm long; — pink wisteria, with pale pink to purple flowers; — purple wisteria, with double purple flowers; — wisteria macrocarpal, with racemes up to 1.5 m long and small leaves; — variegated wisteria, with variegated leaves.

There is also a hybrid between Chinese wisteria and lush wisteria called Alba, which combines the characteristics of both parents. This hybrid surpasses both parents in beauty and has naturally absorbed all the best from them.

Wisteria cultivation.

Wisteria is common in the extreme south of Russia. Not a single flowering vine, at least that I have seen, makes such a delightful impression as wisteria. The natural desire of gardeners is to try to grow something similar in their garden or summer cottage. And although most areas of central Russia are theoretically unsuitable for wisteria culture, if you have the desire, I think it’s worth a try. After all, for example, the overwhelming number of cultural climbing roses not winter-hardy. However, they are widely cultivated by amateur gardeners.

The idea of ​​growing wisteria in my garden has come to me more than once. I read everything I could find about her in various manuals and reference books on ornamental gardening.

So far I have drawn the following conclusions for myself: - grow wisteria possible where the sum of positive temperatures is at least 3200°C. — for the preservation of varietal characteristics, only acceptable vegetative method reproduction. — growing technology should be borrowed from cover grapes.

Wisteria (wisteria) is the dream of all gardeners; it ranks first in beauty among perennial weaving plants. The flowering of such a vine resembles a bright colorful waterfall of clusters of flowers, emitting a sweetish pleasant smell. The cultivation of wisteria is actively used by flower growers for decorative purposes. It is used to decorate the walls of houses and gazebos, terraces, fences, and arches.

Features of growing wisteria of different varieties

Before buying a vine seedling and planting it in your garden, you should find out which species are suitable for our climatic conditions and what are the features of their cultivation. Wisteria as a genus includes 9 species, but only three are suitable for our area: Chinese, frost-resistant, and abundantly flowering. When growing such vines, the following conditions must be provided:

• Bright sun. Abundant flowering of wisteria can only be achieved in a sunny area.
• A solid foundation. Liana is a climbing plant, and it needs a good, strong support along which it will grow.
• Stable watering. From spring to summer, the soil on which wisteria grows must be kept moist. The main thing is not to overdo it, the plant does not tolerate excess moisture.
• Feeding with fertilizers. Like other plants, wisteria needs fertilizer, especially during the budding period.
• Careful shelter for the winter. Despite the fact that such a vine - frost-resistant plant, for the winter it is recommended to wrap its rods with leaves, paper, roofing felt or special covering material.
• Pruning. For dense flowering, wisteria is pruned 2 times a year (at the end of flowering, after leaf fall).

If the climatic conditions of your region do not allow growing a vine outdoors in open ground, try planting it in a flowerpot, like a standard tree. In autumn and winter it will decorate the hallway or hall of your home, and in spring and summer it will decorate the terrace or entrance to the house. To form a wisteria crown, you will need to trim young side shoots several times a day. spring period.

Chinese (Wisteriachinensis)

The birthplace of tree wisteria is China. The plant is characterized by dense foliage, the length of the shoots reaches a height of 15-20 m. The leaf of Chinese wisteria is large (20-30 cm long), has a complex imparipinnate shape and consists of 7-13 small leaves. The liana blooms with light purple (in rare cases white) flowers, which are collected in 40 cm brushes and all bloom at the same time. Flowering begins with the appearance of foliage and lasts until the end of summer. This often happens again in early September.

Wisteria is a heat-loving and light-loving plant, but it also develops well in the shade. It is not particularly demanding on the soil, but it is preferable to plant the plant on fertile, moist soil. This vine is well adapted to urban conditions and can withstand short-term temperature drops down to -20C. Wisteria grows quickly, lifting the stems along the support from right to left. With systematic pruning, the plant is suitable for growing in pots and tubs.

Frost-resistant (Blue Moon)

This plant is native to North America. Blue Moon wisteria is fast growing, its maximum length is 8 m. The bush has odd pinnate leaves (consists of 7-9 leaflets) of a glossy dark green color. The inflorescence is abundant and dense, reaches a length of 25-30 cm, consists of bluish or blue-purple flowers. Frost-resistant wisteria blooms in the first ten days of June and blooms for 2-3 weeks.

The main feature of this vine is its good tolerance of extreme cold down to -40C. It is advisable to plant the plant in a sunny area or on the south side of the building. Wisteria grows on any type of soil, but in order to achieve maximum flowering results, it is recommended to grow it on black soil or loam. It is not recommended to plant the bush in marshy, calcareous places. This type of wisteria does not require watering and tolerates drought well. Only young plants need to be watered systematically.

Abundant or multi-flowered (Wisteria floribunda)

This wisteria was originally bred in Japan. The height of the vine reaches 8-10 meters, has very large leaves (40cm) with 15-19 small leaves. The size of clusters of inflorescences reaches 50-70 cm. Wisteria blooms after the leaves bloom, in the second half of May, sometimes again at the end of summer. The flowers bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush and ending at the bottom.

Multi-flowered wisteria can withstand frosts down to -25C. The liana prefers sunny areas with light, moderately moist, loose soil, without stagnant water rich in nutrients. Wisteria multiflorum wraps its stems around the support only in a clockwise direction. The colors of the flowers are varied: white, pale pink, pale purple, reddish.

Rules for planting wisteria

You need to plant 1-2 year old wisteria seedlings. When planting a plant, it is necessary to follow simple rules, on which the further growth of the plant and its flowering depend. Wisteria should be provided with a brightly lit place with light, fertile soil, strong supports along which it will weave in the future, and reliable shelter in the winter.

Location

Sunlight is very important for wisteria; it needs to be in the sun for at least 6 hours a day. But there should be no drafts; the best choice would be the south, southeast, southwest side of the building. For wisteria shoots, prepare in advance and install a durable, strong support that is resistant to wind loads. When choosing a planting site, take into account the toxicity of the plant, so it is not recommended to plant wisteria near water sources.

Soil preparation

For abundant flowering of wisteria, light, fertile, well-permeable soil is required. If the soil is acidic, it is necessary to lime it a little. Just don’t overdo it; if you use too much lime, the vine loses its attractiveness and its leaves become light. Before planting wisteria, clay soil must be drained with organic fertilizers. For a plant seedling, dig a deep hole, fill it with humus, river sand, leaf and clay-turf soil mixed in equal parts.

Best time to disembark

The time for planting wisteria depends on its method of reproduction:

• Cuttings. Spring time is suitable for good rooting. To do this, select a one-year-old shoot and make an oblique cut in the middle of its length. At this point, the cuttings are planted in soil fertilized with a nutrient substrate. At the end of summer, cuttings with roots are replanted as intended.
• Seeds. In December, wisteria beans are sown in a greenhouse in well-drained soil fertilized with a mixture of leaf soil, turf soil and sand (4:1:1 ratio). To maintain moisture, the crops are covered with glass or plastic wrap and stored in a dark place. After 4 weeks, shoots appear and are brought into the light. When the sprouts grow to a small bush, they are planted in an outdoor greenhouse.

Wisteria care

Caring for such a gorgeous vine is not so difficult. It will bloom thickly only in well-lit areas, protected from gusts of wind. It is important to constantly tie up wisteria shoots so that they can grow and their tips do not dry out. The liana needs to be pruned regularly after flowering so that it blooms more intensely the next season. If you follow these care rules, your plant will grow actively and bloom profusely.

From early spring until the end of summer, the soil of wisteria should be slightly moist, then the leaves will have a bright, rich green tint. It is also impossible to overwater, the plant does not like too wet soil. During dry periods, the vine is watered more abundantly so that the buds do not fall off due to lack of moisture. In the second half of December, watering is stopped; the plant needs to prepare for wintering.

Fertilizer

Wisteria vines grow to large sizes so that the flowers and leaves have a beautiful look throughout the season decorative look, liquid fertilizing is required:

• Mineral fertilizer. For 1 m2 of territory you will need 10 liters of water and 20 g of fertilizer.
• Compost.
• Tinctures of rotted manure (1:20).
• Chalk solution (100 g per 1 bucket of water).

Diseases and pests

Wisteria is resistant to diseases, and due to its poisonous properties it is extremely rarely attacked by pests. It can be:

• Caterpillars that make holes in leaves. They are neutralized by spraying biological product.
• Green aphid. It affects leaves and flowers and is destroyed by insecticides.
• Clover mite. Determined by unnatural bronze color leaves, in this case the vine is treated with acaricides.

How and when to prune a plant

The density of wisteria flowering and the longevity of the plant depend on correctly performed and timely pruning. The timing of the work plays an important role here. Liana pruning is done 2 times a year according to the scheme presented below. Immediately upon landing:

• Using pruning shears, we cut the main shoot of the plant to a strong bud (approximately at a height of 75-90 cm).
• We remove all side shoots of the vine to stimulate the growth of the main stem.

1 year, summer:

• We knit the top shoot of wisteria vertically, and several others at an angle of 45 degrees.

2nd year, winter:

• At a height of 75-80 cm, shorten the main stem.
• Form a few more horizontal shoots and shorten a third of their length.

2nd year and until the end of formation, summer:

• Tie the main stem of the vine to a support.
• Pick up a couple more side shoots and tie them at a 45 degree angle.
• If excess growth forms at the base of the wisteria. Delete it.

• Tie a new main stem of each side branch to the vine and shorten all second-order branches to 20 cm so that they have 3-4 buds.

3rd year and subsequent:

• We perform similar actions, creating vertical growth of wisteria and the formation of lateral shoots.

Wisteria, the care and cultivation of which in the subtropical zone is problem-free, requires special attention in other climatic zones. The second name is wisteria and it is one of the most beautifully flowering plants. Once you see it, you can’t help but fall in love with a gorgeous vine with a waterfall of blooming inflorescences and a pleasant sweetish aroma. Having such an asset in your garden is every gardener’s dream.

Let me introduce

Wisteria is a plant that looks like a huge decorative vine that belongs to the legume family. It is mostly tree-like and deciduous, but sometimes there are semi-deciduous specimens that become lignified at the base. The plant received its name in honor of the American professor of anatomy Caspar Wistar and translated from Greek means “sweet”. The plant is grown all over the world for decorative purposes. But the main distribution area is East Asia and North America, mainly in subtropical zones. Also found in the forests of China, Kuban, Crimea, and the North Caucasus. In general, there are 9-10 varieties, but only two are grown in the garden - lush and Chinese.

This is a fast-growing perennial (trees live for 150 years), growing in height up to 18 m. The branches are represented by climbing vines. They are naked (sometimes there are specimens with pubescence) and drooping. The size of the plant is impressive - the girth of the vine can reach 0.4 m. Wisteria shoots are thin, colored green color, gray bark.

The foliage of Wisteria is imparipinnate, colored in a dark or light green shade, arranged alternately and consists of 7-13 fragments, each of which has an oblong-ovate or narrow elliptical shape. In general, the leaf length reaches 30 cm.

Wisteria blooms twice a year. The first time is in March-May, the second time is in the middle or end of summer. Some species may have different bud opening times. Externally, the flower is a drooping cluster consisting of many densely planted buds. On average, the length of a bunch is 10-80 or 100-120 cm. The flowers bloom from the base to the top of the bunch, emitting a delicate aroma. There is a snow-white corolla and a zygomorphic perianth.

The color of the buds is varied. Mostly pink, white, various shades of purple and lilac.

At the end of flowering, fruits are formed - pods 15 cm in size, containing flat-round seeds, colored brown-black.

When growing and caring for wisteria (photos of the most luxurious specimens are presented), you need to remember that some plants are poisonous, so you should be extremely careful and wash your hands thoroughly after contact.

Wisteria: care and cultivation in the middle zone

Unlike the usual zone for wisteria, growth in the middle zone is problematic. Long and very cold winters make it possible to save only young shoots and rhizomes. Flowering also leaves much to be desired - adult plants bloom only at 6-8 years of age. And where the summer is cold and rainy, you need to try hard to see the buds.

The ideal environment is a constant temperature without sudden changes, both day and night, and plenty of sunshine.

For good development in the middle zone, you need to create growing conditions and care for wisteria that are close to ideal.

Choosing a landing site and soil

Wisteria is a very heat-loving plant, so it prefers sunny areas and walls of buildings facing south. Open areas are not recommended; it is better to plant the vine along a high fence or under the wall of a house.

Full and abundant flowering can be achieved only in bright light for at least 6 hours a day. In this case, winds and drafts should be avoided.

Wisteria is not particularly picky about soil. As a rule, it grows well on any soil, but black soil or rich loams are especially favorite. But a limestone or swampy substrate is completely unacceptable.

Planting and care features

The vine is planted in the ground at the beginning of June, having prepared a hole of 60*60 cm and first added for digging at the rate of 25-30 g per m2.

To prevent the vine from rotting and getting wet, a good drainage layer must be laid at the bottom of the hole. This will additionally protect the root.

Like planting wisteria, care has its own subtleties:

1. After planting, the plant needs to be watered well.
2. You should wait for adaptation, which lasts about a month. After this, the vine will begin to grow and will need to install support.
3. In hot weather or during drought, watering should be periodic and sufficient.
4. It is acceptable to spray the vine in summer.
5. When approaching summer period towards the end, watering is reduced.
6. Rotted manure with water (20:1) or mineral fertilizers (20 g dissolved in a bucket of water) are used as top dressing.
7. When the foliage falls, pruning should be done. It is also carried out in the spring during active growth.
8. Before the first frost, the vine is removed from its supports, laid on boards located on the ground and carefully covered with moss, and then with lutrasil. The root areas should be “covered” with soil. This procedure is especially important for young plants.

Leningrad and Rostov regions

Many gardeners select a Chinese or multi-flowered variety to grow and care for wisteria in the Leningrad region. Unfortunately, this is completely unacceptable for this area. As a rule, the plant dies. Even if it is possible to grow a vine, its flowering will be very sparse - just a couple of frail inflorescences.

It is best to give preference hybrid variety, characterized by high frost resistance - “Blue Moon”. This is a large-tasseled variety that will not only develop well, but will also produce excellent flowering. Planting is carried out with seedlings, planting in the ground with the onset of June. To prevent the plant from dying in winter, before frost, the vine should be carefully removed from its supports and thoroughly insulated with lutrasil. They do the same when planting and caring for wisteria in the Rostov region.

Ural and Moscow region

Wisteria does not tolerate temperature drops of more than 20 degrees. Therefore, growing and caring for wisteria is extremely difficult. There are special requirements for the safety of vines in winter. The plant overwinters best when grown in containers.

It should be borne in mind that the “house” for the vine does not require a small one - at least 40 liters. Plastic fonts, tubs, and garden barrels are used.

Growing wisteria in the Urals is similar. Yes, you will have to work hard, but the result will surprise you.

With the arrival of autumn, before the first snow falls, the vine in a container is sent to spend the winter in a warm room where a minimum of six-hour lighting can be provided. In this case, the plant should be watered once a week. Feeding is excluded.

With the onset of March, the vine is moved to a bright room and watered well 2-3 times/week. Spraying with growth stimulants is allowed.

The practice of gardeners shows that even with seed growing frost-resistant wisteria in the Moscow region and the Urals, the vine will be able to produce abundant blooms twice a day (in summer and autumn). True, first you will have to wait a long time for the sprout to turn into an adult tree.

Siberia

Wisteria is incredibly beautiful. It is not surprising that absolutely everyone wants to see her. But growing wisteria in Siberia is almost impossible. Even a variety like Blue Moon, capable of withstanding forty-degree frosts, bows to the environment. In addition to a mild and warm climate, wisteria needs a long growing season. It is he who is responsible for abundant and long-lasting flowering. The climate cannot provide necessary conditions. Even if you get creative and grow a vine, covering and protecting it from frost (providing good shelter for the winter), and carefully ensuring that the plant does not get wet, flowering will most likely not occur. If a miracle happens, the inflorescences will be weak and isolated.

Belarus and Ukraine

These countries are in a much warmer climate than in central Russia. So summer residents can rejoice - they will be able to grow wisteria.
Moreover, they can grow heat-loving varieties, for example, “Chinese”.

When growing wisteria in Belarus, they give preference to seedlings. At one year of age, they are planted in a sunny area when the soil and environment are well warmed up.
This time comes in April-May. Mature vines will flower during the summer months, starting in late June. With the arrival of autumn, the plant should be well insulated.

Wisteria propagation

There are several options for propagating wisteria, each of which is good in its own way.

By layering

In addition to reliability and simplicity, the method is good because it transmits all the characteristics of the mother plant to the children. They take part of last year’s shoots and, with the arrival of spring or autumn, dig a row 20 cm deep near them, add nutrient-rich soil to it, and water it well. Small cuts are made on the shoot just above the buds and the shoot is placed in the hole, not forgetting to pin it so that it does not come out and sprinkle it with earth.

The top of the shoot cannot be sprinkled with soil; the plant will “breathe” through it. You just need to tie it to a peg in a vertical position.

The shoot, rooted in the leaf nodes, is separated from the “mother” only after 1-1.5 years. If its root has developed strongly, it is immediately transplanted permanently into the ground, weakly - into pots and sent to grow further.

Lignified cuttings

They are cut in the fall from the middle zone of ripened shoots. Each branch should have two buds and a length of 5-8 cm. They are then planted and kept until spring at 3°C. With the onset of April-May, the cuttings are transplanted into containers with wet sand on the soil surface. Planting is carried out vertically to a depth of 4 cm, maintaining a distance of 10 cm between cuttings. In the spring, they are transplanted into pots and sent for growing. After a year, the vines can be planted permanently in the ground.

Winter root grafting

The method is very complex, but it conveys all the varietal characteristics. In the fall, seedlings with non-varietal wisteria are dug up, the roots are separated (the thickness of the roots should be at least 6 cm), they are transplanted into containers with sand and sent to a cool place, deprived of light. In December-January they are brought into the warmth. After two weeks, grafting is done with cuttings of varietal wisteria 6 cm long, having 2 buds and a sharp cut 2-3 cm under the lowest one. A similar cut is made on the rootstock for closer contact. The vaccination site is well fixed with adhesive tape.

Next, the cuttings are planted in a container with a nutrient substrate, without deepening the grafting site, and covered with glass. Conditions for further maintenance: minimum 15°C and humidity 80%. If everything is done correctly, shoots should appear from the axillary buds in two weeks. Well-rooted vines can be transplanted into the ground.

Wisteria from seeds

You can sow seeds in March in open ground or in December in small greenhouses. In the second case, a mixture of leaf and turf soil with sand (4:1:1) is used as a substrate. The seeds are simply laid out on the soil and lightly sprinkled with sand, covered with glass and sent to a warm (minimum 20°C) and dark place. At the same time, make sure that the soil is constantly moist.

After a month, the seeds will hatch, after another 1.5 weeks they are brought out into the light, shading them from the sun at first. When 2 odd-pinnate leaves appear, pick, being careful not to damage the roots. In the future, such sprouts can be used for grafting. Please note that wisteria obtained at home from seeds does not transmit varietal characteristics. Therefore, its flowering may not occur or may be very scarce, even after 8 years.

As you can see, growing and caring for wisteria in the middle climate zone has significant difficulties. But it's never too late to experiment. If you follow all the nuances, you can grow a real beauty. Of course, not the same as in China, but its flowering will delight you.

Wisteria is an amazingly beautiful tree-like vine from the Legume family. Prefers a subtropical climate; under favorable conditions, it blooms profusely and for a long time. In southern countries, the plant is a welcome guest in any garden plot. You can most effectively use it to decorate arches, high brick walls, gazebos... Unfortunately, in central Russia the liana does not feel so comfortable and, as knowledgeable gardeners say, it blooms more modestly. However, with good care, wisteria can be grown in both the central and northern regions of the country.

Wisteria: appearance features

The deciduous vine grows slowly, but its life expectancy is several decades. Its stems are tree-like, the bark is light brown, and the young shoots are pale green. The leaves are large, bright green, imparipinnate. The leaf can reach a length of 30 cm and usually consists of 7–13 small leaves. The flowers are small, collected in racemes. The color of the petals depends on the type of plant; most often, you can see lilac or purple wisteria, less often - white. Flowers exude delicate aroma, which spreads throughout the garden.

Before you start planting and caring for wisteria, you need to choose its type and variety. The most popular are 2 types of wisteria:

• Chinese wisteria- a large vine, reaching a height of 20 meters, flowers of a delicate lilac color with a blue tint;
• Wisteria profusely flowering (Japanese)- a more compact plant (length 7–10 m), the flowers are small, lilac and blue, there are garden forms with pink, bright purple or white petals.

Choosing a site for growing wisteria

The soil on the site should be light, rich in nutrients, neutral or slightly alkaline in composition. A high content of lime in the composition threatens the loss of the decorative color of the leaves; they noticeably turn pale. When growing wisteria, one should not forget about drainage, especially if the soil’s natural composition is quite dense and heavy. Stagnation of water in the roots can be detrimental to the plant.

To achieve beautiful and long-lasting flowering, you need to allocate a lighted area for wisteria. It is good if it is in direct sunlight in the first half of the day, or, conversely, in the second. Thus, the ideal location is arches or gazebos facing east or west.

Daffodils, white tulips, and dark purple hyacinths will look great next to wisteria.

Growing wisteria from seeds

Graceful wisteria - planting and caring for it requires patience. Experts advise beginning gardeners to purchase a seedling, while more experienced ones can try growing seedlings themselves. You can buy a bag of seeds at a large flower shop or order online.

Given the slow growth of the vine, sowing is carried out in the first half of December. The substrate selected is loose and moisture-permeable; it is better to prepare it yourself from the following components:

• leaf soil - 4 parts,
• turf soil - 1 part,
• medium-grained sand – 1 part.

The resulting mixture is filled into a box, at the bottom of which several drainage holes are first made. The substrate is moistened, seeds are sown on the surface in random order, and then sprinkled with a small amount of soil. The top of the box is covered with plastic film or ordinary glass. Seed germination should occur at a temperature between +21 °C and +25 °C. When sowing Chinese wisteria, the box with the substrate should be kept in complete darkness, for example, in a closet or pantry. The first shoots will appear after 20–30 days, and they can be gradually accustomed to the sun. As soon as the plants have a second leaf, they should be thinned out; the strongest specimens should be planted in separate containers.

Residents of the southern regions can sow seeds directly into open ground in early spring.

Planting a wisteria seedling in a garden plot

Wisteria seedling - planting and care in the future is not much different from growing other garden plants. Seedlings purchased from a nursery or grown independently are planted in the garden in the spring, but only after the soil has warmed up well and the threat of night frosts has passed. Still, do not forget that the plant is a heat-loving species.

The planting hole is dug with dimensions of 60x60x50 cm, where 50 cm is the depth. To increase fertility, compost or humus is added to the soil, acidic compounds are diluted with dolomite flour or a small amount of lime. Drainage made from fragments of ceramics and pieces of brick is laid at the bottom. Experts recommend applying complex mineral fertilizer for digging at the rate of 25 grams per 1 m² of site.

When growing wisteria in the northern regions, gardeners prefer not to take risks and keep it as a potted crop. As the seedling grows, a standard tree is formed; in the spring and summer, a tub with the plant is placed in the yard or on open terrace, and for the winter they put it in a cool room and periodically water it. In order for the vine to successfully overwinter, it is necessary to maintain the air temperature within +8–10 °C.

Features of caring for wisteria

Having planted wisteria on a site, it should be given special attention. The most important thing is to control the level of soil moisture.

Watering and fertilizing

Experienced gardeners recommend watering the vine more often, but little by little. It is necessary that the soil always remains moderately moist, but in no case soggy. It is especially important to prevent the soil from drying out in early spring, when the buds are forming; due to lack of moisture, they can crumble without ever opening. With the arrival of autumn, watering is gradually reduced. To make caring for wisteria easier after planting, it is recommended to mulch the circle around the trunk with mowed grass or compost. This will not only inhibit the growth of weeds, but will also keep the soil moist for a long time.

Starting in spring, the vines are fed every 10 days. It is advisable to alternate complex mineral fertilizers and organic matter, for example, mullein infusion in a ratio of 1:20. Once a season, it is necessary to water the wisteria with water with chalk dissolved in it (100 g of the substance per 12 liters of clean water).

Pruning and covering vines for the winter

To enjoy the beauty of blooming wisteria every year, you need to prune it twice a year. The first procedure is carried out after the vine has faded. All side branches are shortened, but not more than 2/3 of their original length. The second pruning is carried out in late autumn, after leaf fall. Both old side branches and young shoots are trimmed, leaving 4–5 buds.

To the delight of Russian summer residents, several winter-hardy varieties have been bred that can withstand frosts down to -20 °C; this helps the plant survive the cold, but does not mean that it can winter without shelter. Growing wisteria in central Russia is a responsible step. To protect the root system, cover the ground around the base of the bush with a thick layer of mulch (15 cm). You can use peat, compost, dry oak leaves. Overgrown vines are removed from the supports and laid on the ground, while the plant needs to be littered with spruce branches so that there is no direct contact with the cold soil. Having laid the wisteria, it is covered with spruce branches, burlap or other suitable material.