DIY two-level ceiling. DIY two-level plasterboard ceiling. Profiles and fastening elements for plasterboard systems

Drywall is a very popular finishing material. It is popular because every normal owner can assemble his own, unique ceiling with his own hands. To do this, it is enough to have a small set of power tools at home and know how to work with drywall and metal.

New technologies and your Creative skills. A two-level plasterboard ceiling opens up ample opportunities for realizing your wildest fantasies. If desired, it can be given a wide variety of shapes, and the use of spotlights along with a regular chandelier will turn an ordinary ceiling into a work of art.

In addition, such a ceiling correct installation will last for decades without much repair. And you won’t get tired of it, you just need to make minimal changes. For example, change the color scheme or move the lamps to another location.

We create a metal ceiling frame on our own

A simple two-level plasterboard ceiling can be sheathed fairly quickly. There are several points that:

there should be a gap of 1-2 mm between the sheets to compensate for possible movements due to changes in temperature and humidity in the room;
if a sheet of drywall is cut, you need to chamfer the edge with a knife or a special plane;
it is necessary to join the gypsum board only in the middle of the profile - this will ensure reliable fastening of the sheet;
the screw head is slightly recessed into the surface of the plaster for subsequent plastering;
the distance between the screws for fastening is 30-35 cm, and to the edge of the sheet - 2 cm.

The surface of the mounted drywall and the seams of the joints are primed. .

After drying, the seams are rubbed thin layer putties. Apply to the wet layer special tape and press it into the primer with a spatula. The screw heads are also puttied. Lastly, holes for the lamps are cut.

This is what a two-tier ceiling looks like, prepared for finishing

At this point, the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is completed. Finishing depends on the selected material. Usually the surface is covered with several layers of putty, cleaned with meshes until a perfectly flat surface is obtained and painted water-based paints with the addition of color. Sticking possible various materials for the ceiling and covering with fabric. It all depends on your imagination.

Features of the design of gypsum board ceilings in the kitchen

A two-level plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen is usually sheathed with waterproof plasterboard. This precaution will not be superfluous, because the hood does not remove vapors 100%. This type of drywall is slightly higher in cost, but it is offset by the increased service life of your ceiling.

The design of the ceiling in the kitchen largely depends on the choice of style, as well as the size of the room. In no large rooms It is better to place the second level around the perimeter of the room. It would look nice to highlight a “dining” area illuminated by spotlights.

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TO As a rule, all unusually shaped ceilings today are made from gypsum plasterboard. The use of this particular material is not at all accidental: it is soft and plastic, it is easy to cut, bend and sew, it is easy to build a structure from it, either one level or two, three or more. Making such a ceiling yourself is not at all difficult, but it will require maximum care and attention. In this article we will look at how to make two-level ceilings from . Photos, videos and detailed recommendations are included.

A two-level ceiling is a practical and effective solution for the interior of your home

Two-level plasterboard ceilings: photos and descriptions of construction types

It's no secret that uneven ceilings- a big headache for those who decide to make repairs. In a great way to hide unevenness is the installation of a suspended structure. This option is not only practical and affordable, but also allows you to bring to life any, even the most original and daring ideas.

We will look at the types of two-level plasterboard ceilings, with photos and detailed description applications.

Similar structures made of gypsum plasterboard have a whole variety of different types, among which it is easy to find a suitable one

One level design

A standard design that is installed directly to the slab floors. Most often used as a simple a budget option in apartments and residential buildings X.

Helpful information! If the room where the installation will be carried out has a small height, then installing a multi-level ceiling in it will not be the best solution. This will visually make the room even smaller and lower, which will make staying in it uncomfortable and tiring.

Beginning of preparations for ceiling installation. Installation technology

Preparation

Before starting work on the construction of a two-level plasterboard ceiling for the living room, photos of which are presented above, you need to pay attention to some preparatory points:

If you plan to install a similar ceiling in a room with high humidity, take care in advance about the durability of the structure - buy moisture resistant drywall. For dry the premises will be suitable and ordinary, standard material.

Complete all the necessary drawings and calculations, and only after you have precisely determined the shape, transfer its projection to the ceiling covering.

Decide on the type of frame for making a plasterboard ceiling for which are presented in this article. Both wood and metal can be used as a frame. In terms of durability and strength, these materials have similar properties, while metal wins in its flexibility - you can bend a structure from it into any shape.

Required materials and tools

Two-level plasterboard ceilings, photos of which can be easily found on the Internet, require the presence of certain tools and materials:

Plasterboard sheet, which must be thin and light. To pick up the right material, ask the hardware store for ceiling gypsum plasterboard - this will help you make the ceiling correctly.

Metal profiles or wooden beams. With their help, the frame of the future structure will be made.

DIY two-level plasterboard ceiling. Video and step-by-step guide

The first step is to eliminate any unevenness and roundness between the wall and the ceiling. It is very important that the corners are even.
Markings are being made for installing the ceiling frame. To do this, two people, using a water level, mark on each wall the height of the frame at least 2.5 centimeters. Marking is done using a special device with blue ink - a chokeline.

Screw the profile or wooden slats so that their lower border is exactly on the marking line.
Markings are made - a profile should be installed every half meter. After the markings are completed, the U-shaped fasteners are screwed to the ceiling, the guides are threaded through them and installed in the profile on the wall.

According to the drawing, wiring is placed in the places where the lamps will be.
Plasterboard sheets are installed using self-tapping screws, of which there should be about 60 pieces per sheet. This must be done very carefully, as this material very easy to damage.
The joints of the sheets must be puttied. The tool for this step will be a narrow spatula.

Related article:

Plasterboard ceilings for the bedroom. Photos and description of the work on installing lamps

The chandelier is installed in the ceiling in the usual way. With lamps, more difficult work awaits: it is necessary to make holes in the places where the lighting is inserted to the size of the device, carry out the wiring, and only then screw in the lamps themselves.

When simple and flat ceiling in one line does not allow the entire plan to be realized as clearly and competently as possible, it is natural that they begin to use multi-tiered structures. But these solutions are much more complex and cannot in any way be reduced to simply adding a single surface. Only by deeply studying the problem and understanding the features of the products can you avoid difficulties and shortcomings during work.

Advantages and disadvantages

First, you should find out what a two-tier ceiling is, how it differs from a single-layer ceiling, and why in certain cases you need to use it. The formation of plasterboard structures is considered one of the most complex design operations, but it is precisely this that allows one to achieve impressive success.

The advantages of gypsum plasterboard are well known even to novice builders:

minimum level of fire risks;
suitability for leveling the base and giving it a three-dimensional shape;
the ability to prepare complex, intricate shapes and create holes without the slightest scratches or chips;
it is easy to hide the wiring in the frame;
if you need to replace this in the future hidden wiring, it will be simple and easy.

A double plasterboard ceiling, especially in combination with expressive lighting, will look much better than a single version.

Eat whole line attractive design solutions– these are wavy surfaces, zigzag curves, and three-dimensional wallpaper. List all possible options will not work, especially since their number is constantly increasing thanks to the efforts of engineers and designers. Additionally, LEDs with colored lights, crystal chandeliers, and small mirrors will help decorate the ceiling space. Fantastic stories will appeal to children and romantically minded people.

But it is important to understand that competent preparation non-standard elements are a rather complicated thing. Only an attractive end result makes the effort worthwhile.

Types of structures

A two-level suspended ceiling can have a lower level of different geometric shape. Because the inner layer poorly ventilated, you will have to use moisture-resistant material. On top of the plastered surface, a border should be used along the perimeter of the walls. The difference between tiered levels can also be expressed in the arrangement of plasterboard islands, which facilitate the upper distribution of zones in space. In this scheme, the second level is occupied by recessed lamps or light strips.

If you abandon the cornice for lighting, you need to attach a special profile to the walls, held in place with nails. This element forms the second horizontal layer. Identical profiles are placed on the ceiling, holding it with anchor wedges that determine the configuration (it will not always be a rectangle). The use of illuminated curtain rods involves placing an LED strip with a self-adhesive layer inside them. The cornice is a special shelf that extends beyond the planes of the second levels; in fact, it is an extension horizontal profile by 50-100 mm.

The advantages of using a rough ceiling surface as the first level are:

ease of operation;

saving material;

minimal height absorption;

increased reliability of fastening directly to the main structures.

But there are also difficulties - sometimes you need to remove all the plaster to the very base, and this is very difficult. To carry out the wiring, you will need to trench the ceiling, and often the walls. High-quality application of plaster and putty is noticeably more difficult than placing initially flat drywall, and even extraneous sounds will penetrate much more. That is why most builders and customers give preference to structures, both levels of which are represented by the gypsum board itself. Then all deformations of the base can be safely ignored, and the front surface will still look amazingly smooth.

The second level can be attached to the first, then the frame of the original tier is mounted first. The guides are made 5 cm below the most “grounded” point of the base. Thanks to this step, it is possible to lower the room by only 5.9 cm. The second-level profiles are attached to the primary ones. It is up to the owners of the house to decide whether to install a cornice or not.

Regardless of what type of structure will be created, you will need:

metal profiles;

plasterboard sheet;

screws and other fasteners;

scissors for working with metal;

screwdriver;

ladder.

At the last moment it is worth paying attention Special attention, because special stairs much more practical and safer than any tables and other improvised support devices. To make the profile curved, it is covered with notches, so it will be easier to get a bend. The initial tier must be marked using a construction hydraulic level, and strictly at a height of 0.1 m from the rough ceiling.

The choice of fasteners is dictated by the material they are to be embedded into. The CD key profile is attached in 600 mm increments, unless there is a reason to change this distance. But the hangers should not be spaced further than 0.5 m. The ends of the mounted hangers should be bent to obtain a shape like the letter P. Electrical wiring placed in corrugated pipe made of plastic. It also needs to be securely fastened using clips.

Where the first and second tiers connect, there is no need to fasten plasterboard sheets; leave only allowances of 100-150 mm to disguise the unsightly frame. Before starting work, it is necessary to chamfer, that is, cut off the edges of the sheets at angles. Then, during subsequent finishing, it will be easier to treat the gap with plasterboard. The material is fastened starting from the corner, the sheets are not joined too tightly, a gap of 0.2 cm around the entire perimeter is quite acceptable. To properly fasten the screws, you need to make a gap of 200 mm between them, holding the center and outer edges of the gypsum board.

To make it easier to make individual pieces of drywall curved, it is advisable to slightly moisten them. Impregnation with moisture is simplified by pre-perforating the cardboard with needle-shaped steel rollers.

Shapes and sizes

Designs with two tiers add volume to the room or change it appearance, add sophistication to the interior. With the help of sharp changes in height and smooth sections, you can achieve an extraordinary appearance.

Two-tier plasterboard blocks should only be made in rooms at least 250 cm high. If you break this rule, the room will become uncomfortable in appearance.

Round type will help to visually highlight the central part of the space (corresponding, for example, to a dining table placed below). The rectangular format makes it possible to correct excessively narrow rooms.

The size of the structure created directly depends on how large the sheets are used. If there is a small (no more than 120 mm) gap between the rough ceiling and the plasterboard, direct hangers can be used. In the case of multi-level structures of large thickness, it is advisable to use spring fastenings with built-in clamps. The second level is usually mounted at a distance of 50 cm from the wall. When calculating the profiles going to the first level, you need to take into account those that will hold the lower structure; Calculation of the need for suspensions is carried out according to the same scheme as for single-level ceilings.

Colors and design

The stylistic options for two-level plasterboard ceilings are very diverse.

Using symmetrical vaults, stucco and arched structures, interiors are designed in the spirit of:

Victorian style;

soft Provence;

elegant classics.

In loft and country settings, it is recommended to use beams. The classic type of two-level ceiling is ideally compatible with light colors and clear geometry. As lighting fixtures use chandeliers of attractive shapes. But high-tech is much better suited for such a solution, since it allows the use of a strict rectangular shape. Highlight features ultra-modern interior Metal lamps painted with blue or purple paint help.

Two-level structures can also be made in an antique style when used bright colors for curved, elaborate elements. When you want to color top part rooms in complex colors, you need to choose the Art Nouveau style, in which angles and sophisticated shapes are unacceptable. This is because either the color or the geometric configuration of the ceiling can be complex, but not both. In a modern environment, the use of photo printing is acceptable.

The radical version of modernity implies meticulous elaboration the smallest details. There is also a superficially lightweight format, when only the “spirit” of the style and its color canons are reproduced, and in everything else, designers and builders have a completely free choice. It will be very good to introduce plant motifs, this solution best suits modernist approaches.

The techno format is not just strict lines, but also lamps made in “cosmic” motifs. But for lovers of exoticism and diversity, it is better to focus on ethnic ceiling formats.

Japanese style is outwardly laconic and very strict., but that is why it embodies a deep semantic set. The coloring should be natural and not too pretentious, because natural tones are best suited. The spectrum of brown and yellow tones turns out to be almost the best solution in most cases, most accurately embodies the ideals of the Land of the Rising Sun.

A minimalist setting always includes not just light colors, but also the active use of halftones. Among all possible colors, preference is given to white. Shades of shiny metal or glass work best with this style. It is unacceptable to decorate a minimalist ceiling with more than one color; this will immediately undermine all design canons.

If you have the slightest difficulty in choosing suitable option you need to seek help from a professional designer. Alterations and new renovations, or the need to live in a room that does not take into account the basic canons of style and design are very unpleasant things. Compared to them, the additional costs of hiring professionals are completely justified.

Specialists know how to take into account the smallest details and flawlessly implement even the most general and seemingly not very specific wishes of clients. Narrow ceilings It is recommended to make them glossy or mirrored, then the problem of space distortion is solved especially effectively.

Whatever strength is chosen, it is important to note that there should be no discrepancies in design between the ceiling structure and the rest of the room.

Coloring is no less important than geometry or light level. By choosing the wrong color, you can break the entire concept, and vice versa, accurate and competent decisions can work wonders. When the ceiling matches the walls in tone or is slightly lighter than them, the space is filled with light and spaciousness. Thick dark colors will help get rid of excessively large, visually oppressive heights.

Many rooms do not have much daylight (because they face west, northwest, or are shaded from the outside).

Then it is advisable to use ceilings in warm rich tones:

peach;

pink;

The opposite case (with windows facing south) requires the use of blue, green or gray paints. If desired, you can combine a neutrally colored initial level and an expressive second one.

Lighting

Lighting for a two-level ceiling is very important. Almost always LED light sources are used. Their attractiveness is due to the soft and uniform glow, the ability to visually increase the depth of the ceilings and create a feeling of “floating in the air” for the observer. By varying the luminous intensity and color of the lamps, it is possible to create a truly unique backlight that you will not find anywhere else. Brightness can be increased by introducing lamps or floor lamps. The location of the built-in lighting is supposed to make the light uniform throughout the room.

To illuminate a two-level ceiling, you need to use either 12 or 24 V LEDs - it is very important not to confuse these numbers with each other, because in terms of external characteristics they can be very similar. It is important to distinguish between waterproof and moisture-resistant structures: the former are suitable for periodic contact with humidified air, the latter are able to withstand splashes and drops of water. For neon lamps, you need to supply a voltage of 100 V; they are installed in increments of 5 m.

For bedrooms, it is recommended to use designs with smooth geometry, painted in pastel shades. The glow should be soft and not too forceful. Pictures of the starry sky, soaring clouds and other calming scenes are suitable for a room where you need to relax and unwind. Dim lights with a flickering effect or a pattern produced by fluorescent light sources help to increase the romance of the atmosphere. It’s better to avoid decorating with neon ribbons, this is the solution would be better suited for the corridor and hallway.

A perfectly flat ceiling surface does not always fit into the concept of the room. Therefore, the design idea has no restrictions in creating overhead fancy patterns, curls and smooth waves. In this case, the base acquires a “number of storeys”, and with it volume and a unique appearance. They allow you to mount a structure of any configuration stretch fabrics. But this technology is complex and inaccessible to ordinary people. home handyman. While drywall allows you to take into account all the wishes of the household. This article will talk about how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands.

The validity of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

The most common option is a two-level ceiling. Its creation is the least expensive, both in terms of material and the amount of time that will have to be spent on its construction. In addition, the number of levels is equal to two - this is the most acceptable solution for most apartments in multi-storey buildings. residential buildings. The height of the ceilings in their rooms is already low enough to lower it even lower and make it heavier by creating additional volumetric elements. And the loss in height will be significant - at least 10 centimeters.

Two-level plasterboard ceilings photo

And even in the case of such a limitation in the number of floors, in practice you have to resort to small tricks: use the surface of an existing ceiling as the first level. In private houses, the ceiling height is usually much higher, so their lucky owners are less limited in their actions.

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Preparatory stage

At the preparation stage, it is worth deciding on the project. Plasterboard sheets (GVL) are attached to a profile that can be bent to fit different angles, without being limited to exclusively straight lines. Therefore the sketch ceiling structure may indeed be the bravest.
The easiest way is to make an edging around the perimeter of the ceiling using simple straight lines or to highlight only the lighting area in the center of the surface. This is convenient even from a counting position required quantity material. And for those who have not had experience working with gypsum fiber before, it is much easier to start by creating simple figures. But regardless of the complexity, you shouldn’t move on without a simple drawing of the future ceiling. If you have the opportunity or independent experience in modeling on a computer, then it is much better to call for help high tech. Then you can see your idea in conditions close to reality, complicate it or, conversely, abandon any detail.
When purchasing plasterboard sheets for the ceiling, be sure to take into account its location. If you can buy regular gypsum fiber board for a living room or bedroom, then for the kitchen you should opt for a moisture-resistant version of the material. As for the frame, you can build it from wooden blocks. There will be no problems with material of different lengths and thicknesses, but it is much more convenient and faster to work with metal profile. After the sketch has been drawn up, and the material, along with the due stock, has been counted and purchased, it’s time to look up.
Since the upper tier will be considered an existing foundation, it must be carefully inspected for existing flaws. Spot lighting, which is used in most cases, will clearly highlight all the irregularities and errors. Therefore, it is worth arming yourself with a spatula and leveling the future tier No. 1.

Two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting

Armed with a sketch, you need to outline where on the ceiling the outlets for the lamps will be located in the future. Then it will become clear how and where to lay the electrical wiring. At this stage, it is better to invite a specialist if there is even the slightest doubt about your own abilities. This is not only about safety considerations - lamps that are not working or are lit every other time can ruin the entire impression of the design, no matter how wonderful it turns out to be in the end.
In addition to the location of lighting points, there are also communications such as air conditioning or exhaust hood, if we are talking about the ceiling in the kitchen. You should also not forget about their location and possible combination with the ceiling structure.

Construction of two-level plasterboard ceilings

There are two ways to assemble a two-level plasterboard ceiling. It is quite easy for some craftsmen to work directly “on the ceiling”. That is, as expected, install all the guides on the base, and then sheathe the GVL frame. And for some it is easier to do the opposite: completely assemble a complex base on the floor, fastening the guides together and folding them into the desired shape. And only then reunite the second tier with the first.
Give unambiguous assessment the correctness of any of these two options is not possible. These are the personal preferences of the master and the nuances of each individual design. The bulky second tier, which is larger in area than the base, seems advisable to assemble directly on the ceiling, because then it will need to be somehow lifted and held until the fasteners are made. This is inconvenient and will require large number assistants, and there is also a significant risk of bending the entire frame.
And small shaped structures may be much more convenient to cook while in a stable position on the floor, rather than on a stepladder.

Frame of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

As a first step, you need to transfer the markings of the future structure in full scale to the ceiling.
The guide profile is fixed along the marked lines. It is marked PNP, measures 27x28, and is 3 meters long. It is used exclusively to create a frame suspended ceilings or wall cladding. Such a profile is mounted at the height of the expected ceiling level, and its wall already has holes for hardware that facilitate this process. In places where it is necessary to create a bend, the profile wall is cut and a smooth wave is formed. The steeper the radius of the intended figure, the smaller the cut pitch. If you plan to make a fairly voluminous semicircle on the ceiling, then it is better to compose it from several small sections, bending each one separately; this makes it much more convenient to work than bending a three-meter profile at once. To make cuts, you can use metal scissors or a small, lightweight grinder (you will have to hold it with one hand).

Now you need to secure the straight hangers. They are sold labeled PP 60×27. They are mounted at intervals of 60 cm. It is recommended to use anchor dowels as fastening hardware. They fit more tightly into the base and provide good retention of any heavy structure.
To add a stiffener structure, you need to cut the required number of blanks that are suitable in length. For straight sections, their fastening step of 60 cm will be quite sufficient; on curved complex sections of the structure it is reduced to 20-30 centimeters. When installing transverse guides, which will then serve to secure the gypsum fiber boards, do not forget about the presence of spotlights. The mounting points of the profile and the exit points of the lighting fixtures should not intersect.
The outlines mounted on the ceiling should be repeated from the same profile and secured to the hangers. You can assemble this part of the structure on the floor, and then simply “put” it in place.

Longitudinal and transverse structural elements at intersection points are additionally fastened with special “crabs”. Their legs are bent along the edges of the profile and fixed with small metal screws. So it turns out reliable connection, capable of withstanding significant loads.

Sheathing with plasterboard

This stage is not very difficult, but will require precision measurements and some preparation, especially if the structure is not straight, but with curved elements. WITH simple forms it's simple.

A factory-applied chamfer is cut off from a plasterboard sheet - it is, as a rule, slightly thinner than the main part of the material.
Mark and cut pieces on the sheet required sizes to close the structure and proceed directly to the cladding. The elements are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws, trying to completely drown their caps in the material.

In order to bring the lamps outside, holes of the required diameter are selected in the GVL. This can be done using a drill and a special attachment - a crown; you can use a jigsaw and cut out the required shape along the drawn contour; If you don't have a power tool, you can always use hand hacksaw. There are special hacksaws for plasterboard sheets. They differ in their design - the tip of the blade is pointed, and the blade itself is quite dense and rigid.

If you need to bend a strip of drywall, you can choose one of two methods for this.

The first involves the use of liquid. It is used when you need to make a small wave.

The required strip is cut to size, laid on a flat surface, one side is moistened with water and left for some time (about an hour). Despite its apparent simplicity, there are several nuances.
Before moistening the material, pass along the side that is supposed to be wetted with a needle roller. The grooves created with its help will contribute to better penetration water. There is no need to try to saturate the sheet in one go. There is a risk of damaging the paper layer without reaching the gypsum “filling”. To moisten, you can use a roller or spray bottle. The procedure is repeated several times. After the allotted time, the GVL element will soften, and bending it in the desired direction will not be difficult. First, the sheet is fixed along one of the edges, then it is carefully bent further and secured at the same time. The recommended fastening step is 10 or 15 cm, so that the bend fits tightly and does not bulge. After installation, the room should be well ventilated and excess moisture evaporate.

The second method is more often used to create arched doorways. But for large radius bends it is better to use it.

So, on a measured piece of gypsum fiber board you need to make a series of notches. They are located in increments of 3-5 cm. This depends on the planned curvature of the structure. It is more convenient to place the sheet of material on a horizontal plane or lean it against a wall with a slight slope. Construction knife with sharp blade You need to make parallel cuts using a ruler (or using a building level). The remaining intact second layer of paper is strong enough to prevent the drywall from breaking completely.
Then the sheet should be broken at the cut points and secured to the profile. If the element is long, then it must be broken gradually as it is fastened. Alternatively, a long curved line can be divided into several segments and installation can be done in stages.
This method of bending drywall involves the fairly frequent use of hardware. They need to be screwed in every 5 cm (corresponding to the pitch of the cuts). This will ensure the tightest fit of the sheet to the main structure.

Tricks for cutting drywall

In order to quickly and evenly cut the required piece of plasterboard sheet, a simple construction knife is enough.
Sheets large sizes(more than a meter wide) it is more convenient to cut when they are leaned against a wall with a slight slope. It is better to cut canvases up to 0.6 meters wide by placing them on a flat surface of the floor or table.
All cuts are made along the front side of the material.
If you need to sheathe with plasterboard sheets large area ceiling, then it is better to purchase slabs measuring 3.6 m. For small jobs, it is better to buy the material in terms of sheets of 2.5 m. This will turn out to be much more convenient and economical. Waste will remain minimal.
Careful planning when cutting will also help to minimize the cost of drywall. The rule that advises measuring seven times and only then cutting works 100% in this case.

Putty

At the joints, plasterboard sheets are puttied using serpyanka (reinforcing mesh). As a rule, it is enough to go through only these places and the entry points of the screws with a spatula. The entire surface is puttyed extremely rarely, for example, before application as finishing coating liquid wallpaper.

After all the joints and depressions from the screws have been leveled with general level material, the putty areas are treated with fine-grained sandpaper. Now the entire surface is treated with a layer of primer, and it is considered fully prepared for the final pasting of any type of wallpaper or for painting.

Two-level plasterboard ceilings video

This completes the installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling.

One of the most effective design techniques is the use of lighting effects. Often it is light that adds zest to the interior. A backlit plasterboard ceiling is one of the most common options. The good thing about it is that, if you wish, you can make it yourself, with your own hands.

Main design differences

Backlight plasterboard ceiling can be hidden or open. Open - spotlights that are fully or partially visible. Hidden is called so because only its radiation is visible. Therefore, when installing a plasterboard ceiling with hidden backlight The lower level boxes are made with a shelf on which lighting fixtures are placed.

This shelf can be open or closed and, depending on this, and the position of the light sources, the width and brightness of the strip of light on the ceiling changes.

How does the flux of light change depending on the shape of the shelf and the location of the light source?

Design of the lighting box

To make such a box for ceiling lighting, you need two types of profiles:

In the version shown in the photo above, the shelf does not rest on anything. The rigidity of the gypsum board itself is enough to hold a light backlight. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the lighting elements. The heaviest are lamps daylight, but they have hardly been used lately, since there are other options that are more energy efficient and easier to install (LED strips, duralight).

There is a second design. Here the shelf extension rests on elongated crossbars. If the previous design seems unreliable to you, you can make this one. Only in this case a little more supporting profile will be required. The photo shows an example of organizing a two-level flow of plasterboard with lighting.

Exactly the same scheme can be implemented in a single-level version. If your main ceiling is in good condition, you can only make a box around the perimeter. Example assembled frame for highlighting below. All that remains is to make the inner side and hem the frame from below.

A backlit plasterboard ceiling does not always have straight lines. They are simply the easiest to implement. But the same schemes are made with curved lines. The results are very beautiful suspended ceilings.

Only at large distances from load-bearing walls the supporting profile must be additionally fixed either to the ceiling or to the profiles of the previous level. It is more convenient to do this with the help of suspensions.

Sources of light

When planning to illuminate plasterboard ceilings, you must remember that this is not lighting at all, but only a way to decorate the room. The flow of light is diffuse. Initially it is fused onto the ceiling, and then into the room. And it adds almost nothing to the overall illumination of the room. With its help, you can visually “raise” the ceiling, making it one of the components of the interior, but this element cannot be considered lighting. You will have to take care of lighting separately: install built-in lamps, wall lamps or traditional chandeliers.

Backlighting can be done using different sources light, but recently three types have been used:

LED
- ribbons;
- duralight.
Neon tubes.

LED strips and duralight

This is a series of LEDs mounted in series. Their peculiarity is that they are powered by 12 V or 24 V. This power can be provided using an adapter that converts the 220 V household voltage to a lower one. There are monochrome tapes (white, red, blue, green) which are labeled as SMD or universal RGB.

Monochrome ones always emit one color; the color of universal ones can change. RGB strips only work with a controller and remote control. Upon command from the control panel, they change shade (the number of colors can be different - from tens to hundreds); in some models, the intensity of the glow can also change.

According to the type of design, LED strips are:

Ordinary. Dont Have protective coating, can only be used in dry rooms.
Waterproof. Their surface is varnished. Can be used under backlight wet areas- kitchen, bathroom.
Moisture resistant. They are sealed in a polymer tube (called duralight) or housing. They are rarely used to illuminate rooms, more often in aquariums, swimming pools, etc.

The choice here is clear. Select the type of tape depending on the room conditions. , and we’ll talk about why LEDs are good or bad in backlighting.

First, about the advantages:

Low power consumption. They are very economical. Considering that this is just decoration, I don’t want to spend large sums on its maintenance.
They don't warm up. Only the power supply can heat up; the LEDs themselves do not heat up. This is important if the ceiling is wooden.
Long service life. Counts in thousands of hours. With normal power supply, they burn out very rarely (do not exceed the current strength for which they are intended).
Low price. SMD tape 35*28, 5 meters long and with a density of 120 pcs/m, costs about $2-3. You have to pay about the same amount for the adapter. True, these are AliExpress prices. Everything in stores is much more expensive (2-3 times), although you won’t go broke either.
Easy installation. Applied to the back surface of the tape adhesive composition. Filming protective layer and stick it in in the right place. If the surface is rough, you can “shoot” with staples from a construction stapler, but it is better not to pierce the tape itself.

Now about the disadvantages. First, and most important: LEDs harshly highlight all surface imperfections. Therefore, the requirements for the quality of ceiling finishing are very high. The second minus: the presence of adapters. They need to be placed somewhere. I guess that's all.

Neon tubes

This glass tubes filled with a mixture of inert and luminous gases. The brightness of the glow changes with changes in current strength, which is regulated by the convector. These devices are installed every 5 meters, their power consumption is about 100 W, and they do not make noise during operation.

A step-up transformer is also required for operation: normal voltage is not enough for neon to operate. Transformers are installed every 6 meters. But they can hum during operation, and also get warm and, of course, draw electricity quite well. The entire system as a whole consumes enough a large number of electricity, which, coupled with the fragility of the tubes and the rather high complexity of installation, makes it not very attractive compared to LEDs.

But recently neon cords have appeared. They come with a controller and all you need to do is press a button. They work from AA batteries. But the power of such lighting for the ceiling is definitely not enough. They can be used in conjunction with LEDs to illuminate interior details.

Installation of ceiling lighting around the perimeter with step-by-step photos

Main ceiling in this option putty, so the first tier was not done. We attached only the box around the perimeter: the height is already small and 7-8 cm, required for organizing the hanging one, is critical.

Near the window there is space left for a cornice, the width of the box is 60 cm, it is lowered by 12 cm relative to the main ceiling, the height of the side is about 5 cm, the protruding part is 6 cm, roundings are made in the corners.

The first method was chosen - a step under the lighting without support. Since the backlight is planned from a regular LED strip, it bearing capacity more than enough.

First make markings on the ceiling. All given dimensions are set aside and lines are drawn using a paint cord. Please note that the line on the ceiling is laid at a distance of 54 cm, and not 60 cm, as in the first diagram. It is obtained taking into account the fact that the step is moved forward by 6 cm.

When drawing curves, their center is made not in the place where the profile is attached, but taking into account the protruding step: this way the element turns out to be more expressive.

The profile guides (CD or PNP as marked) are attached along the marked lines. They attached it to dowels at 50 cm intervals. They drilled straight through the metal. Having installed the plug, we tightened the dowel-nail.

Where it is necessary to form a rounding, the walls (sidewalls) of the profile are cut, the back remains intact. After this, the profile can be laid out in a circle.

From the front side, we attach a strip of plasterboard 12 cm wide to the guide profile on the ceiling. This will be the back side of our box. We fasten it around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws at a distance of about 10 cm.

On the back side of the installed side we attach vertical posts from the CD (ceiling) profile. Their length is small - 9.8 cm (12 cm height of the box, minus 1 cm for installing profiles, and another minus 1.2 cm for the thickness of the gypsum board screwed from below).

In each segment the lower part is trimmed. Are deleted side walls so that you can screw another guide profile. As a result, its bottom shelf should be flush with the profile screwed to the wall. The installation step of the vertical posts is about 40-50 cm.

We screw short vertical pieces around the perimeter

Next step: screw on the PNP profile that goes along the bottom of the boot. It is also installed on self-tapping screws in increments of 10-12 cm.

They connect two guide profiles: the one that is screwed to the wall, and the one that is attached to the main side. They are made from a supporting profile in increments of 40-50 cm.

Let's start creating the curves. To make the strip bend along the required path, we take a strip of drywall about 15 cm wide. We cut it in 5 cm increments and break the plaster. The result was pieces of plaster that were held on cardboard.

Now we attach such pieces to the profile. For each fragment - one self-tapping screw, approximately in the middle of the width, so that it does not burst.

With help laser level transfer the height markings to the inside. If you don't have a laser level, use a water level and draw a line with a pencil.

Then we take a piece of the supporting profile 9.8 cm long, just cut it both at the top and bottom. Approximately in the middle of the arc, we place one edge behind the profile and fasten it with a self-tapping screw.

Then we take a piece of profile cut into fragments (as we did when forming a circle on the ceiling) and fasten it along the mark.

Finished rounding “from the inside”

Now the excess pieces of gypsum board can be removed. They are cut level with the bottom edge of the profile, carefully cutting the paper and breaking off small fragments.

The next step in making a backlit plasterboard ceiling is putty. The ceiling and main side are plastered. This is the most convenient moment for this. Later, the bottom hem and the protruding cornice will interfere.

The most convenient way is to cut out a square, then trim it on one side. First we screw it in straight lines. Then, gradually, in an arc, drawing the required edge shape.

First you can draw, then bite off small pieces along this line. Smooth out any uneven surfaces with a wallpaper knife.

No news: to make curves, we cut the sides, bend them to the required diameter and install them in place, fixing them with self-tapping screws.

If you plan to do LED backlight plasterboard ceiling, it's time to attach the tape. Then it will be very uncomfortable. It is glued in the right place, if necessary, installing some kind of inclined plane.

Next, a strip of plasterboard 5 cm wide is attached to the profile. One of the features is that it is fastened in the middle, and not at the top and bottom: the height is too small. The bends are also done in a familiar way. We cut a strip every 4-5 cm, break the plaster and fasten it.

In this version, to make the work easier and give the ceiling a finished look, fillets are glued to the side ( ceiling plinth). Similar ones are glued at the junction of the box and the wall.

Now all that remains is to putty everything and achieve a smooth surface. Almost everything. The plasterboard ceiling with lighting is ready, all that remains is to install the lighting itself. And it can be different.

Another option can be seen in video format, but with working backlight.

The installation of a two-level flow is demonstrated in the following video. The steps are shown schematically, but the assembly of the first level is clear. So that might be useful.