Planting cabbage under the snow. Sowing in February. Fruit and berry trees and bushes and not only fruit and berries before winter

October is coming to an end, which means it's time for winter sowing! And many gardeners managed to plant everything back in September! So maybe we're already late?

How to determine correct timing winter crops? How to plant correctly before winter? And importantly: What to plant before winter? These questions haunt many gardeners... It’s especially difficult for beginners to navigate here... But an early harvest yes early greens Everyone wants to eat! What to do?

Today we will analyze this topic in detail so that even the most novice farmer will no longer have questions! The topic is very interesting and worth special attention, so... Let's go!

What can you plant before winter?

Let's start with choosing an assortment of winter crops! What can you plant in the fall? You are ready?

Are you ready to be surprised? Because I may surprise you, I may make you happy, but you can plant almost anything before winter! Why practically? Because everything, but not everything! Yeah, got you confused? Let's figure it out together!

First, let's look at the two concepts of FROST RESISTANCE and COLD RESISTANCE. It is based on these two concepts that we will select our winter assortment! An assortment of what you can plant or sow before winter in the fall in your garden!

Frost resistance- is the ability of plants to tolerate temperatures below O ° C, low negative temperatures. Morosoresistant plants are capableprevent or reduce the effects of low negative temperatures.

Cold resistance- this is the ability of plants to tolerate temperatures slightly higher About °C. For most agricultural plants, low positive temperatures are not harmful. This is due to the fact that when cooling, the plant enzymatic apparatus is not upset, resistance to fungal diseases is not reduced, and no noticeable damage to the plants occurs at all.

Cold resistance degree different plants not the same. Many plants of southern latitudes are damaged by cold, which means they are not suitable for winter crops! Resistance to cold varies among varieties. To characterize the cold resistance of plants, the concept is used temperature minimum, at which plant growth stops. For a large group of agricultural plants its value is 4 °C.

However, many plants have a higher minimum temperature value and, accordingly, they are less resistant to the effects of cold. Plant resistance to cold depends on the period of ontogenesis (individual development process). Different plant organs also differ in their resistance to cold. Thus, plant flowers are more sensitive than fruits and leaves, and leaves and roots are more sensitive than stems. Early sowing plants are the most cold-resistant.

We know that many plants came to us from the subtropics, so we grow them as seedlings, grow them in greenhouses, and pre-harden the seedlings, and generally worry about them.... We'll talk about them a little later... For now...

Making a list of plants for autumn planting, relying on their characteristics and features. The main factor here is precisely these two concepts - cold resistance and frost resistance. That is, these are the very plants that we usually plant ourselves. in early spring basically, and this is a very decent list!

Let's make up sample list and you can choose from it suitable crops, I'll just list everything possible options- something that can be considered as “before winter”!

1. Greens and herbs for winter!

Dill, parsley (including root), onions, cilantro (coriander), parsnips, spinach (preferably perennial Uteusha spinach), all kinds of salads, sorrel, wild garlic, rhubarb, watercress, leaf mustard, anise, cumin, arugula, asparagus, chard, all types of perennial onions: chives, slime, shallots, onions (Stuttgarten riesen), trumpet; chicory lettuce, celery (both petiole and root), fennel, borage, all types of mint and lemon balm, marjoram, medicinal scorchium, lovage, tarragon, hyssop, creeping thyme, katran (a relative of horseradish, but tastes more delicate), horseradish, many varieties basil, pharmaceutical gravilate, oregano, angelica officinalis, snakehead, kalufer (balsam tansy), chervil, coluria (gravilate-shaped), fragrant rue, savory, sage - and this is not the whole list, what I remembered....

2. Vegetables for winter!

Cabbage! Did you know that all types of cabbage, except cauliflower, broccoli and Chinese cabbage, are biennial plants? In the first year they form what we grow it for - these are heads of cabbage, heads or stem fruits, and in the second year a flowering stem and seeds! Only we are talking about varieties, and not about hybrids, of course.

What types of cabbage can be planted before winter? Chinese and Chinese cabbage- champions in cold resistance! White and red cabbage, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts, savoy cabbage and broccoli, kohlrabi and kale! As you can see - all types of cabbage!

Radishes, turnips, turnips, daikon, rutabaga, radish both black and green, potatoes, Jerusalem artichoke, stachis, carrots, beets, celery root, garlic, peas and beans, lentils, chickpeas, flax, sunflowers, garden strawberries, onions leek, physalis, from grains - wheat, rye, oats, barley... from green manure - sweet clover, vetch, lupine, mustard, radish, rapeseed, almost everything except buckwheat... Perhaps I didn’t remember all the vegetables... Well, this seems like a lot to me...

3. Flowers for winter!

Please note here all unpretentious annuals: lavatera, calendula, eschscholzia, cosmos, niggel, alyssum, cornflower, aster, poppy, iberis, godetia, gypsophila, ornamental cabbage, chrysamthema, phlox, mathiolla, mignonette, kobeya, passionflower, sweet pea, brachycoma, oxalis. geranium, malcolmia, scabiosa, collinsia, snapdragon, delphinium, carnation, adonis, lupine, nasturtium, hops, gaillardia, agrostema, calistephus...

A perennials just need to be planted just before winter: rudbeckia, primrose, spurge, lupine, bellflower, dicentra, oriental poppy, delphinium, heuchera, bazulnik, aconite, aquilegia, doronicum, lavender, gentian, lychnis, yarrow, arabis, aubrieta, all bulbous (hyacinth, muscari, chionodox, scylla , pushkiria, daffodils, tulips and crocuses)! further: anemones, irises... And these are not all flowers! I can list them and list them, my brain is already tired...

What else can you plant in the fall?

4. Fruit and berry trees and bushes and not only fruit and berries before winter!

Honeysuckle, gooseberries, currants, red currants (we plant early autumn!), apple and pear trees, plum, chokeberry, raspberry, chestnut, willow, birch, conifers (pine, larch, thuja, hemlock, juniper, fir, spruce), rowan, cherry, mulberry, maple, linden, alder, ash , oak, hawthorn, barberry, clematis, viburnum, cranberry, lilac, dogwood and many others, although many of these can be planted in the spring.

This is a pretty good list that we have, now you can choose from it the most suitable one for yourself and go to the garden!

But! This is theoretical! In practice winter sowing! This experiment radically changed my attitude towards this whole theory! I realized that there are exceptions to the rules, such as ! Therefore, today I carried out several more experiments, the results of which I will tell you next year!

Tomatoes, in theory - perennial, they can be transplanted into a pot in the fall and taken home, they, of course, also have a dormant period, so no one says that they will bear fruit all year round... They will shed their leaves, stand until spring, and begin to bloom again! But I consider this torment, mockery, and nothing good will come of it! The harvest won't be the same anyway...

Another thing is planting before winter! Well, yes - the results surprised even me and undoubtedly pleased me! The plant was stronger, more resilient, I would even say, invincible!!!

And this is a very serious question, but the answer to it can never be unambiguous and precise... What does this mean?

The fact is that each of you must determine this date for yourself! You need to learn how to identify it! And I’ll tell you that the climate on earth is changing, so it doesn’t change from year to year - this date is always floating! But she swims around October-November! Not in September! More likely in December, but not in September! The principle applies here - better later than sooner! Why?

Because if you plant early "vegetables or greens for winter", that is, it may turn out that you plant early... By the way, this year we experienced a “sharp winter” very early - Snow fell in early October (it never melted!) - this is a rarity even for our Perm region (usually snow falls only in November and then towards the end of the month).

For example, it has become sharply cold, the temperature can fluctuate for a long time within 0 - -5 °C, despite the fact that it is still September. And many gardeners rushed to plant garlic and everything else! It's autumn and it's cold already! Maybe they'll be late...

But you shouldn’t rush, you need to look ahead at the weather forecast (I trust Meteonov - has never let you down, you can check it and add it to yours - just indicate your city there! there is also an agricultural forecast - it shows the approximate soil temperature at different depths!), and if you know that it will still be warm (positive temperatures), then this is a reason to stop! It's not time to plant before winter - not the time!

Only after making sure that in just a week or two a steady cold snap is setting in and no thaw is expected, then we’ll get ready to go to the garden! For us in Berezniki this is just the end of October - November! But not in September!

Therefore, if you ahead of schedule plant something before winter, the seeds will germinate (many germinate at 0) and die when cold weather sets in! Naturally, in the spring you will not receive anything from them...

But if you plant it later, the seeds will undergo natural stratification and only become stronger - the plants will be strong and resistant to all weather fluctuations! This does not mean, of course, that you can simply scatter all the seeds in the snow and wait for the harvest! We must do everything wisely and consciously!

Yesterday October 25th - I went and planted everything for winter! And garlic, too, just yesterday! Because according to the forecast - a few more days plus 2 - plus 3 - plus 1 and literally in a week it will be steadily minus 7 - minus 8, and then it will only get colder! This is how we choose a date for winter plantings! Difficult? Well, it’s not easy, let’s say, because if you rely on the forecast of unreliable weather sources (those that are constantly wrong!), then you can fly by...

Many will now be indignant, saying, how can this be? Is the soil frozen? crusted over?... Yes! And therefore we must prepare our garden in advance for winter sowing! I always take care of this in advance!

Preparing your garden for winter planting!

While it's warm, don't relax. You need to think carefully about where and what you are going to plant in the fall! What does it mean to prepare? It is necessary to create favorable conditions in the garden bed, so that only then (often in the snow) one can come and plant!

To do this, we comply! And if you sowed at the end of summer - this is already a crop rotation - and they have already grown significantly in a month, then it is not necessary to cut them! It is enough to make grooves, at the bottom of which we pour ash and coconut substrate, you can compost (that is, something loose that does not form a crust even when frozen).

The coconut substrate must be prepared in advance so that it dries a little!

We prepared the grooves and that’s it! The green manure continues to stand for now. After sowing before winter, they will naturally wither and cover the soil, and over the winter they will rot! We prepare the mulch in advance - what you will use to mulch the winter crops! It could be half-rotted, for example - a great option!

Because the soil is healthy! The soil does not freeze! The soil is always covered, never stands bare - at any time of the year! The soil is not dug up, which means its structure is carefully preserved and only improves! The soil is fertile, loose, rich in humus and soil life! The soil always gives us more than we expect with our minimal effort! In a word, everything that I am writing here now only works for the Natural Garden!

If you are farming according to natural principles, let it not be that long ago! Let it be just a year or two! You already have a chance to sow a significant part of this list before winter! For example, root vegetables may not work out, but greens and flowers will grow and delight you! You'll save some of your spring time and enjoy early vitamins on your desk!

The soil at my dacha is simply fabulous! Whatever you leave, everything grows! This is of course the result of many years of work! And yesterday, in addition to the planned plantings, I decided to sow an additional couple of beds! But these beds were already under the snow; green manure grew on them, which went under the snow. I sowed directly in the snow, without preliminary furrows!

I sowed onion seeds (nigella - different varieties, bought in a store along the way), sowed them with carrots, using coconut substrate and straw:

What will happen? The mulch will rot over the winter, it will be eaten by microorganisms and my worms, and the fertile layer will only become thicker! The seeds of cabbage and others will fall with the melted snow onto the fresh, fertile, nutritious layer of soil!

On top this straw, which I sprinkled, will most likely still remain, now it has covered the seeds, from the wind, from the birds, it will lie under the snow and in the spring it may still remain, and in the spring I will cover these two ridges early and the rest - the main ones, where the winter crops are implemented, with film! The sun will begin to heat up, life will boil faster under the film! And literally in a few days I’ll install the arches.

I will put covering material or film over the arches! Why am I talking about this now... In the spring I will show these and all the other beds! How is it growing there...

I updated the garlic today. I do this every 5 years! Their manure is priceless

If the soil is dug up, it is depleted, compacted, washed out and eroded, if it is lifeless, it is like dust or like stone, and it is always bare - it is not mulched, clogged with weeds, then no winter crops out of the question! Here you must first work hard, at least for a year or three, to take the risk of sowing something for the winter and expect the result, and get it! And take action urgently - you don’t know how or where to start - our site is just for you - that’s what it’s all about! It’s about Natural Farming! If you're not sure you can handle it alone, then ! And together - we will achieve success only together!

Don't be afraid to experiment! Don't be afraid to make mistakes! Take action! Do it! But Think! We always need to be aware of what we are doing, why, put ourselves in the place of a plant or a worm in order to understand whether we are doing everything right?! If I liked these conditions, then I’m on the right track! This is how we learn to interact with nature! And she always gives us the opportunity to observe her, understand her and of course LOVE her!!!

I would be grateful for the response from everyone who is able! You can help us, we really need your help! Do GOOD - and it will come back to you!

There are secrets to growing cabbage seedlings and planting them. Modern table unthinkable without her. If you want to grow cabbage seedlings yourself at home, then first of all you need to think about the seeds, about those varieties that will provide you with the result that will satisfy your wishes. But on the one hand, many gardeners have problems with cabbage seedlings. On the other hand, there is nothing special or difficult. How to plant cabbage seedlings?

Seedling box

Choosing a variety for growing cabbage seedlings

There are countless varieties of this vegetable. There is super-early cabbage, which already ripens by the end of June, forming tight, juicy heads of cabbage, there are varieties that ripen in mid-summer, and there are varieties that are harvested only at the end of October - they are intended for late storage.

In addition to white cabbage, there is cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, Peking cabbage, red cabbage, Savoy cabbage, broccoli, kohlrabi, and decorative cabbage. The choice of variety and type depends on your needs.

First of all, answer very important questions before purchasing seeds:

• you want to use cabbage only in the summer, to make vitamin-rich salads from it, for example;
• you want to leaven it;
• or maybe you have a basement or other storage facility where you want to store it until the next harvest.

Sowing cabbage seeds for seedlings

The technology for growing cabbage seedlings is the same for all types. Its seeds resemble radish seeds; after all, they belong to the same cruciferous family, but a little smaller.

Cabbage is grown mainly through seedlings. This is an extremely cold-loving, light-loving plant. People often ask about growing cabbage seedlings in.

But now - the most important thing. You can sow the seeds at home, but know that the home microclimate is absolute nonsense for her. She simply cannot live in such a microclimate. The most she can do at home is to rise, but she will immediately lie down, the color will turn pale green, then yellow, and then she will disappear. Therefore, cabbage seedlings cannot be grown at home. But if you have cold veranda, glass balcony without heating, then maybe something will work out. Cold and light are important to her.

That's why cabbage seedlings you need to grow, roughly speaking, almost on the street. We need to make a so-called cold nursery. How to make it? Very simple.

You take an ordinary box, you can even use a balcony box for flowers.

Fill it with soil. There is no need to soak or heat the cabbage seeds. They can be sown in rows or scattered. It's not that important. After sowing, it is important to lightly sprinkle the seeds with soil, trample them lightly and be sure to water generously on top. Cabbage is a moisture-loving plant, so there is no harm abundant watering will not be.

This box of sown seeds should not be left at home. You need to bring it to the dacha or take it out to the garden. If you still have snow, then shovel it away and place the box with the sown seeds on the cold ground. The place should be open, warmed by the sun. Install arcs on top and stretch the film. This is how your nursery will stand until the shoots appear. Shoots will appear in ten to twelve days.

If you already have a greenhouse installed, then bring the nursery inside; additional arcs with film will no longer be needed. An additional greenhouse will need to be made only for seedlings, since they are afraid of frost. But cabbage, Brussels sprouts, Savoy, etc. do not need additional shelter; they tolerate frosts down to -5°C.

if you have stationary greenhouse, for example, glass, then the seeds can be sown simply in the soil of the greenhouse without any nursery, since the soil there is very well heated by the sun in early spring.

So, cold seedling is the main secret of obtaining good harvest cabbage

How to care for cabbage seedlings

After some time (10-12 days) in your cold nursery you will see the following picture - a forest of seedlings.

Very few cabbage seeds do not germinate. It's not scary that your seeds sprouted so often. This is fine. It tolerates thickening up to a certain stage - until the 3-4th leaf appears. Until this moment, you don’t need to do anything with the seedlings - just make sure that the soil doesn’t dry out and water it periodically. Remember that if it is +5°C outside, it can be +20°C in the greenhouse, and this can cause the soil to dry out.

Of course, you may already notice at this stage that some plants are stronger, taller, more robust. Most likely, these are the ones that will be planted in the garden. But for now they are all on equal terms. You can leave everything as is and wait for the 3-4th leaf to appear. Or you can carefully transplant some of the plants from the nursery along with a lump of soil into a separate pot. If the seedlings have 1-2 true leaves, then you can transplant several plants at once into a separate pot. And if there is more, then plant it immediately in a separate glass.

Cabbage loves to feed organic fertilizers, but before disembarkation better fertilizer do not apply.

This plant has very interesting feature– it is better to replant it in the ground earlier, with the full presence of 1-2 true leaves, when the 3-4th leaves are just appearing. Well, as a last resort, when the 3-4th leaves have already grown, but not later. Since in this case you won’t get large beautiful heads of cabbage, but they will ripen later. This pattern has long been noticed, but why this happens is a mystery. Apparently, this is due to the energy of the environment.

Usually planted in open ground cabbage seedlings 30 days after emergence.

This is approximately the size the plants should be before planting.

I do not thin out the cabbage seedlings in the nursery. Let it grow thickly. When planting in the ground, you will reject weak seedlings and choose strong, strong, beautiful ones.

When you remove cabbage seedlings from a pot or nursery, you will plant them in the correct way - at certain distances. Plants varying degrees developments will quickly level out and catch up with each other. Even if some plants were depressed, they will quickly recover. For cabbage, the earliest period of development is not the main thing; what is important for it is what will happen in the garden after planting.

For many years in a row I have been planting cabbage in open ground. I start planting in March, when the snow has not yet melted.

Background

I decided to try this method back in 2002 on the advice of my good friend, and part-time breeder, who advised such an extreme method.

When I planted cabbage at home and then transplanted it into the ground, 1/3 of the seedlings died immediately, and in the future, under the influence of such various factors as wind, rain, temperature changes and lack of sun, the same number died.

Advantages

When we plant cabbage in March, things happen among it natural selection, and weak pathogenic seeds simply cannot germinate in such conditions, and at the end we get incredibly hardened and ready for any conditions cabbage that will withstand any climatic conditions (be it squalls with rain or night frosts). And also, with this method of cultivation, its gastronomic properties change, it becomes more juicy and sweet, and it also grows 1.5-2 kg more than from seedlings that are grown at home in the warmth.

Landing method

We begin planting in the middle - end of March, when the sun begins to warm up and thawed patches appear. If there are no thawed patches yet, you can first remove the layer of snow with a shovel so that the ground can be seen a little.

Then we take the watering can from hot water, we dilute potassium permanganate in it to destroy microbes and pathogenic viruses in the soil.

We make a groove, pour it 15 cm deep with our hot solution of potassium permanganate. Next, we plant the seeds to a depth of 5 cm and cover it all with a 2-5 cm layer of snow. It is important to remember that you only need to plant early varieties cabbage

Then we install a low greenhouse. Thus, if it snows after planting, then nothing will happen to our cabbage due to the greenhouse.

As a result, due to the fact that we covered our planting with a small layer of snow, we will have automatic watering under the influence of the sun. And we won’t have to worry about soil moisture for a long time.

I don’t have a photo with cabbage, I’ll attach it this year after planting. In the meantime, admire my site (photo from last year, month of July).

Ecology of farming: Early sowings, as gardeners know, contribute to more early harvest Sowing in February-March in a greenhouse significantly improves the quality of the resulting harvest of vegetables, flowers and seedlings

Early sowing, as gardeners know, promotes an earlier harvest. Our reader from the Urals, Natalya Bobkovskaya, uses an interesting and effective method sowing greens, flowers and cabbage seedlings in February-March. Natalya sows at the very end of winter or early spring in a polycarbonate greenhouse under the snow. Sowing in February-March in a greenhouse significantly improves the quality of the resulting harvest of vegetables, flowers and seedlings. This greenhouse growing method is great for cold and snowy regions. Read about successful experience Natalya in this article (and, by the way, it’s not too late to do early sowings if the snow hasn’t melted!)

I don't have the opportunity to grow at home a large number of various seedlings: there is limited space on the windowsills, provide all plants with proper lighting and temperature regime does not work. I think many people are familiar with the difficulties of window sills and seedlings in a city apartment. I don't really like purchased seedlings. If we are talking about large vegetable gardens (and this is exactly what I have), then purchasing seedlings will cost a very decent amount. It’s still more profitable to grow your own. You can’t do without seedlings in the Urals, because our summer is short and spring is quite late (late April - early May). How to get a large number of high-quality seedlings? At the end of winter (in February) or in the very early spring (in March), I sow vegetables and flowers in a greenhouse under the snow.

Since we got a polycarbonate greenhouse, I have been growing many plants in it, and for several years now I have been doing sowings in winter. It’s not difficult, you just need to prepare the soil in the greenhouse in the fall, and come to the site for a couple of hours in February or early March. Thanks to sowings done in February-March, the plants germinate in physiologically normal conditions, the seedlings do not overgrow or stretch, they tolerate replanting much easier and their survival rate is much higher. I’m not even talking about saving valuable time in the spring during the planting period (and in winter too - has anyone tried to calculate how much time we spend at home on sowing, picking and watering seedlings?).

Sowing in February: getting ready for the fall

In the fall, I prepare the soil in the greenhouse for sowing in February-March. Everyone cultivates the land in their own way and no special tricks are needed for early winter sowing. I dig up the soil, add fertilizers and compost, mark the furrows and water the soil generously (I put a sprinkler in the greenhouse for a couple of hours). Watering at this stage is very important, because there will be no snow in the greenhouse in winter, so it is necessary to create at least some supply of moisture.

Sowing in February - early March

In winter, I choose the right moment - somewhere in late February or early March. In the Urals there is usually as much snow as possible at this time, but it has already compacted, which means it is easier to pour it into the greenhouse than freshly fallen loose snow. These times may move forward or backward slightly in your area.

I simply sow the seeds in prepared beds in the greenhouse. Cabbage, radishes, flowers - in rows; lettuce and dill - in bulk, where there is room left. You definitely need to install plastic labels so that you can then know where everything is planted. I cover the crops with agrill or any garden moisture-permeable fabric material of medium density. Neither very thick nor very thin covering material is suitable: the first allows little light to pass through, and the second does not protect crops from the cold. I cover the crops with snow over the top of the covering material. The minimum layer of snow is 5 cm, but in general the more, the better.

The entire sowing procedure in February-March takes one and a half to two hours, most of which is spent throwing snow into the greenhouse. This is not an easy job, so a strong assistant will come in handy.

Sowing in February: further development

The next time I come to the garden is somewhere in mid-April. Previously, on this visit, I only sowed lettuce and radishes in the greenhouse. Now, with early sowing in February or early March, at this time the first shoots have already appeared in the greenhouse. The size of the seedlings depends solely on the amount of moisture: if the spring was early and warm, there may not be enough moisture even under agrill. True, nothing has ever dried out for me. I water the crops abundantly directly through the agrill.

On the same visit I sow in a greenhouse under plastic jars cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins for specially left free place. I also close the top of the jars with agrill. Cabbage and flower seedlings still have almost a month left before they are planted in the ground; They have enough light under the agrill, but they are inaccessible to pests, which sometimes completely mow down all the crops in the ground. This is another advantage of sowing in February under covering material and snow.

As a rule, by the beginning of May, greens and radishes are completely ready for consumption. By the time the seedlings of peppers and tomatoes that I grow at home are planted in the greenhouse, all the greens sown in February are already collected for the table, and the seedlings are planted in a permanent place.

Crops for sowing in February - early March in a greenhouse under the snow

For early sowing in a greenhouse under snow, virtually any frost-resistant flowers and vegetables are suitable, with some reservations.

Early vegetables and greens. Radishes, lettuce, dill, mustard greens, watercress, cilantro (coriander), spinach. Vegetables that take a long time to emerge and require a long time to grow - celery, carrots, root parsley, etc. - can be sown along the edges of greenhouse ridges, where the main greenhouse crops will not be planted at the end of spring.

Cabbage all types of seedlings: early and mid-season white cabbage, red cabbage, broccoli, Savoy, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, conical, kohlrabi. Cabbage seedlings prefer bright light and cool temperatures, so it develops better in a greenhouse than at home.

Flowers for seedlings. I sow annuals in the greenhouse asters , zinnias, Snapdragon, Drummond's phlox, ali ssum , kohia. When sown in a greenhouse in February, flower seedlings turn out strong, stocky and much better than those grown at home. Annuals that do not tolerate transplantation well ( ma k, kosmeya, eshsh olcia), it is better not to grow it in a greenhouse as seedlings, but to immediately sow it in a permanent place in the garden. Perennials that require stratification can also be sown in winter, but not in a ridge, but rather in separate deep containers, which are dug in there, into the soil in the greenhouse (so that the containers can then be moved to another place). published.