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For which premises is cement-based self-leveling floor suitable? Making a self-leveling floor (self-leveling screed) with your own hands Self-leveling cement floor

The real owner tries to decorate the house in a stylish and original way. When creating the interior of a room, the elements of the room play their roles, complementing the ensemble. This also applies to floor coverings, which can be the main element of decoration or background, focusing attention on other structures.

But no matter how beautifully the floors are designed, no matter how expensive materials are used for decoration, if the technology for preparing the base is violated, the service life flooring small, and the repairs will have to start again.

Therefore, let’s consider the question: how to properly prepare the base for laying floor coverings.

Subfloor requirements

For each type of flooring, manufacturers put forward their own requirements. However, there are also general rules.

The floor must be smooth, without holes and bumps, cracks and chips. Otherwise, in those places where there will be pits, the finishing material will sag over time, and in the places of the tubercles it will rise, which will lead to the destruction of the coating in these places.

The base must be strong in compression and not be destroyed under the influence of interior elements or when people move on the floor covering.

The floor for laying the flooring must be dry. Styling is not allowed finishing coating onto a wet subfloor. Humidity always contributes to the damage of structures by mold or other types of fungi.

To create a smooth and durable base, self-leveling compounds based on gypsum or cement are used.

Advantages and disadvantages of cement self-leveling screed

Advantages of cement screed

  • used for leveling floors in dry and wet rooms;
  • you can make a screed with a thickness from 2 mm to several centimeters;
  • leveling the floor does not cause difficulties and can be done even if the person performing similar work, has no experience;
  • the screed is strong and wear-resistant;
Ready-made self-leveling cement floor
  • the drying time of the solution is reduced;
  • When using ready-made compositions, it is enough to add the required amount of water to the mixture and the solution is ready for use.

Disadvantages of cement screed

  • high price of the mixture;
  • dismantling is more problematic.

Characteristics of the mixture for cement composition

The mixture consists of three components: water, cement and sand.

Attention! To prepare the mixture, only high-quality ingredients are used without additional impurities.

The binder component is Portland cement grades M300 - M500. The filler is pure sand of the middle fraction.

Additionally, plasticizers and other chemical additives are introduced that change some properties of the finished solution, for example: hardening time.


Mixture for self-leveling floor

Additives are divided into two classes:

  • polymer, which include modifiers, plasticizers, inhibitors, etc.;
  • mineral and organic additives, for example: glass fiber, which gives strength to the screed, or lemon acid, which increases the hardening time of the solution.

Types of cement mixtures for self-leveling floors

Depending on the purpose of the screed, the following types of mixtures are distinguished:

  • Basic, designed for rough leveling of subfloors. In this case, the thickness of the layer reaches several centimeters.
  • Finishing, designed for final leveling of the surface. Performed thin layer up to 5 mm.

How to make self-leveling cement floors with your own hands

In order for self-leveling floors to be smooth, durable and wear-resistant, it is necessary to follow the order of work.

Tools for getting the job done

Before starting pouring, prepare the tools:

  • drill with attachment;
  • grinder and grinder;
  • container for mixing the solution;
  • respirator and gloves to protect against exposure harmful substances;
  • special construction vacuum cleaner to remove dust from the surface of the base under the self-leveling floor;
  • spatula or rule to create a flat floor surface;
  • a needle roller to remove air bubbles from the cement screed;
  • paint shoes - shoes for walking on freshly poured screed.

Shoes for walking on uncured self-leveling floors

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, prepare the base for the self-leveling screed.

Fill cracks, large chips and holes with cement-sand mortar. This will reduce the consumption of the self-leveling floor solution. Areas of the leveling layer with different thicknesses and dry into different time, which leads to the fact that the strength of the screed is different places is different.

Remove the bumps using grinder or Bulgarians.

There should not be any on the floor surface greasy stains. If there are any, then degrease the floor in this area. If the area of ​​contamination is large, cover it with special construction lining paper.

The base must be clean. Vacuum before pouring the screed.

The screed must be completely dry.

For good adhesion of the solution and the base, the floor surface is pre-primed. The choice of primer depends on the base material. If the base is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers. Filling is carried out a few hours after applying the primer.

Then, using a horizontal line, mark the level of the new floor. To do this, measure on the wall the desired height and use a pencil and level to make marks.

Attention! Minimum thickness filling is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the floor leveling mixture.

To make pouring more convenient, you can install beacons on the base.

Next, along the perimeter of the room they lay damper tape, which is 1 cm wider than the thickness of the fill. It is also laid if the floor surface is being leveled in the house different compositions. Without the use of tape, due to the different coefficients of thermal expansion of gypsum and cement, the screed in the contact area may be destroyed.

Now mix the solution for the self-leveling floor. To do this, mix the leveling mixture with the right amount water. The proportions for the solution are taken from the instructions that manufacturers indicate on the packaging. To make kneading easier, use a mixer or a special attachment on a drill.

How to make a homogeneous solution for self-leveling floor? To do this, first pour water into the container, and then add the mixture. If you do the opposite, there will be lumps in the finished solution.

When mixing the solution, use gloves and respirators, as some additives can release toxic substances.

First stage. Pouring the floor

Start pouring from the far corner of the room and lead towards the exit from the room. Since the solution dries quickly, it is prepared in separate portions. Ready solution pour onto the floor and level.


Leveling the screed surface

Then compact with a needle roller.


Compacting the screed with a needle roller

Second phase. Drying and sanding

When the mixture has set, grind the surface using a grinder.

You can move on the screed 2 – 3 hours after pouring. However, it is possible to lay the floor covering or carry out further processing only after 24 hours.

In order for the screed to dry evenly, it is necessary to protect it from direct contact sun rays. Do not use heating devices to speed up drying.

A level base of the floor is the guarantee that the finishing coating will lay beautifully and last long years(this is especially true for materials such as tiles). Cement-sand floor screed is an opportunity to create not only a smooth and even, but also a durable base. However, the work of filling it is not as simple as it seems at first glance. Let's figure out how to create such a screed yourself.

A screed made from a mortar made from sand and cement is an almost perfectly flat base that is suitable for laying absolutely any floor covering, be it tile, laminate, linoleum or parquet. It is with the help of such a screed that rough foundations are most often leveled - concrete floors in houses, brick floors and even simply create a foundation lying on ordinary soil. On average, the thickness of the cement- sand screed varies from 3 to 8 cm. It may be larger, but due to heavy weight mortar used for pouring, when calculating the thickness of the screed, it is necessary to take into account the strength of the floors.

The main tasks of the screed are not only to level the surface, but also to the fact that it will redistribute the loads experienced by the floor, creating solid foundation, will make it possible to equip heat and waterproof layers and even in itself is an excellent option for heat and waterproofing. Inside this structure you can lay different kinds communications, equip, etc.

On a note! Certain types of screeds, called self-leveling floors, will help bring to life the most daring design solutions. Such floors can be different color or have a very interesting drawing. Special compositions make it possible to create on the floor.

Benefits and Features

Cement-sand screed has many advantages. This applies to its physical and physico-chemical parameters.

Advantages of sand-cement screed.


But, like any other method of leveling the floor, cement-sand screed has its drawbacks, which you should be aware of before installing this type of base. The disadvantages of cement-sand screed are given below.

  1. Significant mass. Cement screed exerts significant pressure on the floors, and therefore its use may be limited by this factor. For example, 1 m 2 of cement-sand screed, laid in a layer of 1 cm, weighs about 20 kg.
  2. Long drying time. Before you can safely move on the screed and carry out further finishing of the floor, it is necessary to dry it well. The drying time is long - about a month.
  3. It is difficult to achieve a smooth surface manually. Fortunately, if this was not possible, but evenness is necessary, you can fill the screed with a self-leveling mixture on top.
  4. Difficult installation. Filling the screed is very difficult process, which is often carried out with the help of strangers. The work, of course, can be done independently, but it is important to follow all the steps and key points when pouring the screed. Otherwise it will crack.

In any case, a properly filled screed is great option bases for any type of finishing coating. In addition, after drying during use, it is easy to clean, even if not covered with finishing, and is also not afraid of water.

Types of cement screeds

Exists big number ways to make such a screed. However, the main ones can be distinguished - tied and untied screeds and floating.

Method ties tied used if the permissible leveling layer can be up to 4 cm thick. The base becomes one with the floor and walls. This type of screed requires careful preliminary preparation rough base - all large holes, cracks, cracks in the floors are sealed, all significant irregularities are removed as much as possible. If there are small bumps or pits on the surface of the ceiling, they do not need to be sealed. Builders even recommend artificially roughening freshly laid floors by walking over them with a wire brush - this way, the adhesion of the mortar to the surface will be better.

The solution for pouring the screed should have the consistency of sour cream or cake cream. It turns out quite liquid and about 20 minutes after pouring it will begin to gradually harden. Therefore, you need to fill and arrange the screed during this time.

Attention! Large premises They are usually poured in stages, since one person cannot quickly level such an amount of mixture.

You can carefully walk around the room the next day, but the drying time for such a screed is long - up to 40 days. It is important to properly dry such a base - the water cannot quickly evaporate from the layer, it must come out gradually, so it is recommended to moisten the fresh screed with water and cover it with film.

Eat untied screed, which, on the contrary, is mounted on a perfectly smooth surface. In this case, the base should not have water-absorbing properties, so as not to draw moisture out of the screed. The thickness of such a layer can reach 5 cm. The main difference from the previous type is that a primer is not used before pouring such a screed. Also, no methods are used that can increase the adhesion strength of the solution and the rough base.

Floor screed - mortar and grout

Also often installed is the so-called floating screed. It is usually used if its thickness should be 5-7 cm. The design of such a layer is different in that it does not even directly come into contact with the rough base - on the contrary, layers of hydro- and thermal insulation are laid between the solution and it, various materials, which simply will not allow the solution to adhere to the ceiling.

Attention! It is this type of screed that is most often strengthened with the help. It can also be added to the solution to increase its strength, reduce the risk of cracks and reduce the risk of shrinkage.

Due to its large thickness, such a screed could have Weight Limit, however, it is poured using the so-called semi-dry technology. That is, the solution is mixed using small quantity water and resembles the structure of wet sand.

Prices for fiberglass screed

fiberglass for screed

Proportions of cement and sand

Depending on which screed option is chosen, the composition of the mixture for its manufacture is also determined. The proportions of the two main components are selected depending on what brand of cement will be used and what quality of sand. To install a screed in an apartment, it is enough to use M200 cement. The finished base will be able to withstand a significant load - about 200 kg/cm³. You can take 1 part of M500 cement and mix it with 3 parts of sand. And you will need as much water as is necessary for the solution to achieve the required consistency. This is approximately 1 liter per 1 kg of cement.

Attention! There is no need to add a lot of water, as this will make the solution of less quality.

It is very important to choose the right sand to create the solution. It should not contain (or at least contain) various inclusions - silt, clay, etc. These components negatively affect the strength characteristics of the finished screed. Best to use river sand washed. Also suitable quarry sand, but its quality is somewhat worse than river water due to the angular shape of the sand grains.

Table. Mixture compositions according to GOST when using M400 cement, wt. h.

Brand of solutionCementWaterSand
150 1 0,55 3
200 1 0,48 2,8
300 1 0,4 2,4

Almost every owner wonders which self-leveling floor is most suitable for the home, which mixture to choose, or how the types of coatings differ in addition to price. Floor on cement based is good decision for those who want to restore order and cleanliness.

Features of cement floors

Cement-polymer floor is a self-leveling self-leveling floor. It is highly moisture resistant. It is universal - suitable for outdoors and indoors. You just need to choose the right mixture that will withstand temperature changes or excessive humidity. The presence of cement provides the coating with ideal adhesion to concrete - this is better than simply laying tiles or laminate on a bare, unprepared surface.

Therefore, liquid floors are often the main finishing. For such purposes, dry mixes are purchased at construction markets.

The composition of the mixture for pouring the floor contains several components:

  • The most important thing is cement.
  • Various minerals.
  • Natural sand (fractional).
  • Polymer components.

A high-quality mixture is quite easy to determine: it contains great content various useful additives, polymer components. They are used to increase strength, as well as to ensure that the mixture has the desired consistency when pouring the floor.

There is also another type of self-leveling floors - cement-sand. It consists of cement, sand and water. However, sometimes it is recommended to add more plasticizer to increase the density of the coating.

How to properly create a homemade self-leveling floor - step by step instructions for those who want to do this themselves without the help of special organizations:

  • Preliminary work. The preparatory part consists of several steps. First, you need to tidy up the surface, remove debris and dust. The second is to draw a line around the perimeter with adhesive tape at the level of the planned floor. Measure the width of the tape according to the thickness of the floor. Sometimes it turns out that the tape protrudes beyond the edges - then this can be covered with a plinth. Third stage - prepare everything you need for the solution before moving on to the next stage. How to do it correctly can be read on the packaging of the mixture.

  • Installation of beacons. With the help of beacons, the area is divided into several zones. It is important to do this if the surface is large and filling the entire space at once will be problematic. The beacons should be equal in height to the thickness of the future floor. If the floor is relatively flat, then self-tapping screws are suitable as beacons. They need to be screwed into checkerboard pattern into the base of the floor. Try to maintain a distance of one meter between them. If there are significant unevennesses (from 3 centimeters), then we recommend using not self-tapping screws, but metal corners. They are fixed with cement and gypsum mortar.

It is better to check the correctness with a level, strictly maintaining the horizontal. If the pouring area is too large, use the same self-tapping screws, screw them into the floor, and mark the level of the caps on the walls. After that building level It’s worth checking the horizontal position and then tightening the wire.

  • Primer. Apply in a convenient way to an already cleaned surface. During the process, carefully watch for cracks and roughness; they also need to be treated. The primer dries in about 30 minutes. For more quality results It is better to repeat the procedure several times until the surface gives off some shine. This is especially important if the floor is old, cracked and uneven. If everything is more or less new, then one layer may be enough. It's better to look at the situation. During pouring, the material may darken or begin to foam - this means that the humidity in the room is quite high.

Nothing catastrophically bad will happen, the primer will simply take much longer to dry - about a day, not half an hour.

  • Preparing material for further pouring. It is better to mix the mixture before you start the second step, so as not to waste time later. As mentioned in the first step, all instructions and filling technology are available on the packaging of the composition. It is extremely important to follow all rules and be careful. Pour the amount of water specified in the instructions into the solution container. After this, carefully pour in the powder. There is no need to add anything extraneous. It is recommended to mix the mixture with a drill with a suitable attachment or construction mixer so that the solution comes out of high quality. You need to stir until it becomes a homogeneous mass, and then let it sit for ten to fifteen minutes, and then stir again.

  • Filling the screed. Apply markings along the beacons with a level, then fill in the self-leveling mixture. Try not to delay the process, as the composition may then harden. The drying speed is also indicated on the packaging. Therefore, it is recommended to fill at least two people - it’s faster and more reliable. The solution is poured onto the floor, after which it must be leveled with a roller. If you have no experience at all in carrying out such work, then it is better to use less solution. It’s better for two people to act like this: one pours the mixture, the second immediately levels it out, while the first prepares the next portion. And so on until the very end, until the entire area is ready.

The floor should ultimately be level and smooth. After complete filling, the surface must be re-rolled with a roller with needles to ensure that the solution adheres tightly to the base. This will remove any air bubbles. Next, let the floor dry. The drying time may be different for all solutions, but on average it is six hours.

Features of acrylic self-leveling floor

The composition of the acrylic floor, which consists of:

  • Cement.
  • Polyacrylate copolymers.
  • Special filler.

Initially, such floors were laid in industrial environments, but now the scope has expanded. Such floors are highly durable, resistant to moisture and various chemicals. They often cover surfaces in the subway, showers, toilets, and so on. The floor is fairly easy to install, but it would still be a good idea to prepare the surface to be effective. Just as before, remove debris and dust.

Main characteristics:

  • You can create different surface- matte or glossy.
  • Resistance to temperature changes.
  • The floor does not peel off from the surface.
  • Service life is about thirty years.
  • Perfectly smooth surface and elasticity.
  • Easy to clean from dirt and dust.
  • Dries quickly until you can walk on it.

Acrylic floor installation:

  • Preparing the subfloor. Installation of such a floor is somewhat faster than a cement-polymer floor. And it is also not necessary to lay a finishing layer (tiles, parquet or other) on top of it. Remove all dirt, dust and debris. Sanding is not necessary for acrylic floors.

  • Primer. Without it, the material will not sit firmly on the surface. Experts advise, depending on the age of the floor, to decide how many layers of soil need to be laid. But often one is enough.

  • Mixing the mixture. It is recommended to do this immediately before applying to the surface. All components are mixed in the vessel, and after that you can pour it. It is convenient to level with a spatula. This must be done quickly, since such a floor dries within 15-20 minutes.

  • Roller processing. It is better to use a needle roller as it will help get rid of any air bubbles in the mixture. On a surface that has not yet dried, wear shoes with spikes.

  • Coating. After a couple of hours, cover the floor with resin or varnish (your choice). This last layer, which will provide better protection and moisture resistance. After a few more hours, the floor dries completely, and you can no longer walk on it without wearing specialized shoes, place objects on it, and carry out any repair work.

Floor coating with liquid glass

Among other things, liquid glass is often used to fill the floor. After installation, such a self-leveling floor creates a smooth and glossy surface that is very reminiscent of real glass, only in liquid form. He is often found in medical institutions, because it is easy to clean and does not absorb bacteria. In fact liquid glass always glossy and transparent, but it is possible to paint it in order to achieve a different shade. In these cases, special dyes are used that are added to the mixture.

You can also create a 3D effect. To do this, you need to put a printed drawing or other three-dimensional objects of your taste and color between the layers.

The advantages of such floors:

  • Smooth surface.
  • Does not burn.
  • Does not react to chemicals.
  • Vibration resistant.

Selection of finishing compositions

Of the huge range of flooring compositions, it is worth noting the most popular:

  • “Prospectors Quick-hardening” (from 270 rubles) based on gypsum. Most often used in living quarters, kitchens and hallways. A mobile solution, within forty minutes you can have time to pour it over a fairly large surface. A fairly well-known mixture that is used even by experienced specialists.

  • “Prospectors Tolstoy” (from 230 rubles) based on cement. Levels concrete floors with very strong unevenness. Used for applying thick layers. They come out heavy, but at the same time durable. Suitable for garage and bathroom, as well as outdoors with some kind of canopy. It takes the longest to dry on this list.

  • Brand Unis. “Horizon Universal” (from 270 rubles). Suitable even for wet rooms, for any substrate. The name speaks for itself - the mixture is universal, it can be used under tiles in a toilet or bathroom.

One of the problems with indoor flooring is the uneven structure of its surface. This does not allow high-quality processing of the base using decorative finishing materials. One solution to this problem is a self-leveling floor. Such materials are characterized by self-leveling abilities, which minimizes human participation in the distribution of surface structure.

Distinctive features

Cement self-leveling floors are modern materials, which during installation form a flat surface. The thickness of one layer can vary over a wide range.

Cement-based floors have several unique characteristics:

  • The hardened surface has high compression resistance. This allows you not only to level the floor, but also to further strengthen it;
  • Cement tolerates moisture well without losing its original characteristics;
  • The products are compatible with various finishing materials, including methyl methacrylate mixtures;

  • Relatively low cost. This concept is relative, since if you use mixtures as classic screeds, the volume increases, and, accordingly, financial costs;
  • The cement mixture allows moisture to pass through well, which allows the surface to breathe, minimizing the effect of liquid on the structure of the material;
  • Bases of this type are perfect for installing “warm” floors;
  • Easy to install. Almost anyone can install a self-leveling floor, even without experience in construction;
  • Almost perfect alignment grounds. This material is much better than classic sand screed, which does not allow for precise leveling of the surface.

Application environment

Cement self-leveling floors are universal leveling compounds that are not used as a decorative coating.

Their main purpose is to create a flat surface for finishing materials:

  • laminate;
  • parquet;
  • linoleum and others.

Screeds of this kind are used in various types premises. You can place them both in the toilet and in the living room.

Theoretically, they are universal and suitable for both exterior and interior use.

In residential premises, self-leveling floors are used, which contain a minimum amount of polymers. This eliminates the release of harmful substances into the air.

That's why this option is optimal for a bathroom or kitchen where moisture is constantly released.

For residential premises with minimal humidity, the best option There will be a screed based on gypsum. It dries much faster, but is not used outdoors. Today, special polymer- cement screeds, which allow you to obtain a fairly thin leveling layer. Its thickness can reach 3-10 mm depending on the manufacturer. But at the same time specifications this product is much better. Therefore, a floor based on polymer components with a thickness of 1 cm competes with a classic cement coating with a thickness of 3 cm.

Use polymer-cement mixtures only inside industrial premises. They can often be found in warehouses or other similar facilities. A special feature of this product is that after pouring it can simply be painted and used as a finishing coat.

Types of Cement Floors

Self-leveling floors are made from various substances, ensuring the strength and durability of products. Today the most quality mixtures are made on the basis of cement.

Depending on the composition, these materials can be divided into several subtypes:

  • Sand-cement floors. Sandy substances are classic and most common. The characteristics of these mortars are very similar to conventional cement screeds that are used for additional alignment surfaces.
  • Cement-gypsum compositions. The combination of these substances makes it possible to obtain a solution that resists stress well and dries quickly.
  • Polyurethane-cement and epoxy-cement floors. The products are characterized by high strength and durability. Their peculiarity is that they perfectly tolerate not only physical, but also chemical loads. Therefore, they are used in enterprises with certain working conditions. A floor made of such materials forms a seamless structure that does not collapse even with constant high temperature changes.

It should be noted that almost all types of cement-based self-leveling floors contain polymer components. It could be like epoxy resins, and regular acrylic. Depending on the percentage of these substances, the screed receives different properties. Today there are special polymer compositions, pouring which, you can get the so-called “liquid glass”.

Classic self-leveling cement floors consist of several main components:

  • Cement. Its quantity is determined by the purpose of the material and the environment of its use. Depending on the brand of cement, the substance can obtain different strengths.
  • Fractional sand. When manufacturing products, only high-quality components of the same size are used.
  • Mineral and polymer additives. Their quantity is also regulated by production technology.

Surface structure

Cement-based self-leveling floors can technically be considered classic screeds. They differ only in consistency and composition. But no one bothers you to use them instead standard solution made of cement and sand.

Depending on the purpose and structure of the material, self-leveling floors of this type are divided into the following subtypes:

  1. Basic. The substance is used to level out significant differences. They allow you to form a screed up to 8 cm thick. They are not used as the main surface, since they do not differ in the necessary technical parameters.
  2. Mixtures for middle layers. The main purpose is alignment small defects with height differences of up to 3 cm. Often this mixture is covered with a base layer, which allows you to obtain a strong and durable structure.
  3. Finishers. Compositions of this type level the surface quite accurately. Laminate and other flooring are already laid on such foundations. decorative materials. This type of cement floor can be applied with a thickness of no more than 1 cm.

Preparing the base

The quality of self-leveling flooring largely depends on the structure of the surface on which it is applied. Therefore, before laying the cement-based mixture, the substrates should be properly prepared.

This process consists of several procedures:

  • The basis for self-leveling mixtures is concrete. Therefore, before installing floors, all old coating should be removed from the surface. If the old design does not provide concrete screed, then it is advisable to equip it. Especially it concerns country houses, where the floors are made of wood.
  • When the old coating is dismantled, the differences in the base are checked. It is important that this value does not exceed 20 mm. If there are protruding tubercles, then it is advisable to eliminate them mechanically. The best option There will be the usual knocking down of irregularities. An alternative is to use grinders and special electric tools.
  • To get a strong grip bulk mixture with the base, it is important to seal all cracks and remove dust. Immediately before applying liquid floors, the surface is primed with special solutions.

Apply the mixture

The technology for producing cement-based self-leveling floors is quite simple and involves the following sequential steps.

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