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Homemade machines tools and devices. Homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. Homemade tools and accessories with your own hands: detailed instructions with step-by-step photos Homemade tools for woodworking

To make your home comfortable and enjoyable, you will need sophisticated technology. It simplifies household work several times, but its maintenance requires some skills and knowledge. Few people know all the capabilities of the latest tools and do not use them to the fullest. If you modify them slightly, you can get excellent homemade tools for the workshop where real masterpieces are created.

If you buy models from famous brands, they will turn out to be excellent and reliable assistants. In addition, devices are needed for unfolding and securing products during processing. And at the dacha you can use a simple carpentry workbench.

As the home handyman accumulates inventory it should be sorted into the following sections:

  • Metalworking and carpentry equipment.
  • Various devices and instruments.
  • Electrical equipment.

When creating tools with his own hands, the craftsman uses racks, drawers and cabinets. Keeping your tools clean and tidy gives you a chance to create a good working environment and ensure long-term preservation of your tools.

Homemade tools

Wood processing is very popular in the home. In high-quality homemade tools for the workshop, first of all, the workbench will come in. It must be suitable for the person in height. Its lid is located at the levels of bent palms. If it is necessary to raise it, bars of a certain thickness are placed on the dowels below.

Newest workbench

A standard workbench is made of a lid with different vices. This design is needed to create products with your own hands. It is not well suited to working with electrical devices due to the fact that the workpieces are sometimes difficult to secure. You can purchase a new compact workbench MASTER cut 1000 worth 12 thousand rubles, which should be foldable. You can put hand tools on it: a circular saw, a jigsaw or a router. But then it will need to be redone. The Festool MFT 3 workbench has excellent characteristics. However, the price of 30 thousand rubles makes you think. The master can easily do it homemade tools for home workshop, operating at the same level.

  • To make a workbench, you will need high-quality plywood without knots. The thickness must be at least twenty mm. By attaching an electric jigsaw to the bottom, you can cut boards and small bars along, across, at an angle, and also make complicated curved profiles. The devices perform auxiliary functions of circular and band saws.
  • First, the tabletop is created. A groove is cut into it in the form of an arc to install a guide, which can be changed at any angle. A guide with a slot is also created for the jigsaw. Its width is determined by the size of the sole of the device.
  • It is worth making sides from plywood and attaching them to the tabletop to give full rigidity. The legs of the workbench are made of timber. You can make a frame out of metal, and then attach the tabletop to it with screws. Then the structure will be light and strong. The guides at the bottom are attached to the tabletop with special furniture nuts.
  • The jigsaw is placed at the bottom of the workbench lid, as if upside down. Only the file will remain visible from above. For ease of use of the jigsaw, an auxiliary switch is installed. The guide should also be quickly removed so that you can safely replace the saw of the device. For easy access to the lower part, the tabletop can be made folding and hinged.
  • The workbench takes up little space and can be placed even at home. To do this, it is made foldable so that it can be easily disassembled and taken to a closet or pantry.

Garden device

For work on a summer cottage or in a country house you need a quality workbench. The tabletop is made of thick boards up to two meters long. It won't hurt if you secure it a little more with self-tapping screws. The bottom perimeter of the tabletop is sheathed with timber. The table legs are made in the form of a square section 120 by 120 mm. They can be buried in the ground or attached to a reinforced concrete base. The entire structure must be treated with an antiseptic, and it is also covered with drying oil.

When the workbench is installed, do-it-yourself devices are mounted on it: guides, devices for fastening workpieces and electric tools.

Pipe bender

In a subsidiary farm, you need to have a tool to bend metal pipes. A simple pipe bending device - this is a steel plate with welded pins. By inserting a workpiece between them, it can be bent at the desired angle. In such simple devices, the pipe wrinkles at the bend points. To prevent this from happening, the pipe must be completely filled with sand. Heating with a blowtorch, which all craftsmen have, can also help.

“You can never have too many tools” - everyone who has been involved in construction or making something has heard this phrase. The right tool is invaluable when you need to saw something off, weld it, or connect parts. The section on FORUMHOUSE about homemade machines and devices, which is called that, is constantly updated with new products that simplify and optimize the work of a builder or a “jack of all trades.”

We have already told you, and... Let's continue the topic we started. Today we will talk about homemade turning, plumbing and even gardening tools and devices for construction.

Grinder cutting machine

Machines for the workshop are always in demand, but an angle grinder (angle grinder), popularly known as a “grinder,” is one of the favorites in the arsenal of any home craftsman. But the instrument requires a very careful attitude, because any neglect may result in serious injury. Therefore, when cutting large volumes of metal (when making a fence or cutting reinforcement), many people prefer to work with a metal cutting machine.

You can buy a frame for an angle grinder on the Internet, but to save money, you can make a cutting machine yourself, from an “unnecessary” or “superfluous” grinder, which almost every owner of a country house has. As we'll see, it's good for more than just sharpening garden equipment!

Ivici FORUMHOUSE user,
Moscow.

I have an angle grinder weighing 5.5 kg. One day I thought about how to make it easier to use. After all, working with it, moving all the time, is inconvenient - your hands get tired quickly. I decided to make a convenient cutting machine from what I had.

Looking ahead, let's say that the machine (more precisely, its second modification) was a success: it cuts smoothly and without distortions.

Ivici I made it like this - I took a piece of channel No. 6.5 (65 mm wide and 36 mm high). This is the basis of the machine.

A steel strip of 50x5 mm was also required. With its help the angle grinder is secured. A 4x2 cm profile and a three-millimeter piece of steel were also required. A figure eight bolt serves as a turning axis.

In the first version of the machine, a powerful door hinge was used as a rotary axis. But, due to welding, under the influence of high temperature, all the lubricant in the loop burned out, and a backlash appeared in the assembly.

According to the user, the most difficult thing was to accurately mark and drill three holes with a diameter of 14 mm for attaching angle grinders with bolts to the threaded holes intended for installing the side handle.

To do this, I had to use a stepped (conical) metal drill.

I also had to work with a round file. A small bore of the holes, due to the backlash, allows you to move the angle grinder a little during the assembly process and accurately install it. After all the parts are ready, the user welded the piece of hardware holding the angle grinder together, assembled the entire structure in rough form, checked all the corners and, making sure that everything was mounted as it should, finally welded the entire structure.

Ivici

The machine is attached to the support table (a piece of slate 1 cm thick) with six self-tapping screws. You can dispense with the return spring, just tighten the axle bolt more tightly. There are no backlashes or distortions when cutting the workpiece. You can also cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

Another homemade machine from an angle grinder was suggested by a portal user with the nickname Bistok.

As usual, first we start a small construction project or remodel, then we realize that we need new construction tools and devices, and then the search for the most optimal solution begins. Well, don't buy it!

Bistok User FORUMHOUSE

I decided to make the stairs out of metal. To avoid defects, backlashes, and discrepancies, maximum precision is required when cutting metal parts. Therefore, I decided, using an angle grinder as a basis, to make a sawing machine.

Everything that is usually lying around in the home workshop (and it would be a pity to throw it away) of a zealous owner went into action, waiting for its finest hour. As a stand for a cutting machine Bistok I used an overlock table.

The swivel unit is made from the hub from the “nine”, because it has a bearing.

As in the option described above, the most difficult thing was to “catch” the right angle between the cutting disc and the stop angle. After all, the accuracy of sawing metal depends on this unit.

The end result is clearly demonstrated by the photo below.

To turn on the grinder Bistok I made additional wiring - I brought out a regular switch and socket, and an extension cord comes from this switch.
You can buy a homemade machine from a craftsman you know, but it’s much better to upgrade to a creator of devices of this level!

Bistok

I got a portable machine. I welded a corner to the handle to get 3 support points for the angle grinder. The fastening with two bolts was adjusted to the location. I work only in safety glasses. I am very pleased with the result of the work done. I didn’t buy anything extra to make the machine. The cut is exactly 90°.

Budget drilling machines

In addition to cutting machines, various devices for drilling holes in metal are popular. Starting from stationary drilling machines and ending with devices in which a regular drill is fixed, like the “driller” of user FORUMHOUSE with the nickname g8o8r8.

g8o8r8 FORUMHOUSE Member

While drilling many similar holes in thick metal, in order to relieve my hands, I made a simple device based on a clamp welded to a metal support and a pair of clamps to firmly fix the drill. Now drilling a corner or channel has become much easier.

According to the user, drilling 1 hole with a diameter of 4-5 mm takes no more than 30 seconds. Having decided to repeat such a design, you should remember that the load on the drill increases significantly due to the increase in the volume of work. g8o8r8 I've already rebuilt my drill twice.

Also, the user, based on an electric motor, made a small “vertical” machine for drilling holes with a diameter of up to 4 mm in printed circuit boards.

g8o8r8

The long spindle compensates for the inaccuracy of the bearing race groove. For amateur use, this machine is quite suitable. Drilling accuracy remains at an acceptable level.

If you do not have a welding machine, you can assemble the device you need on the farm using bolted connections.

Hand trowel for concrete

No less important than homemade machines for the home workshop are devices for construction and repair. And we can easily make many construction devices with our own hands.

Anyone who has ever dealt with concrete work knows how difficult it is to smooth a freshly laid mixture to perfection. If in small areas you can get by with the rule, then when pouring the area in front of the house or parking lot, you cannot do it with an ordinary tool. A concrete trowel comes to the rescue, which, due to its long handle (from 3 to 12 m), allows you to smooth concrete over a larger area without stepping on the surface being leveled.

The principle of operation of such a device, somewhat reminiscent of a mop, is simple. There is a working profile (also called a “wing”), attached to a long handle. When moving away from you at the ironer, due to the gearbox, the edge opposite to the user rises. That is, due to the angle of inclination of the “wing”, the trowel glides along the concrete and does not collect it in front of itself. When moving towards you, on the contrary, the side facing the worker is lifted up, and the trowel smoothes the concrete again.

ronik55 FORUMHOUSE Member

I know from personal experience how difficult it is to smooth concrete perfectly. I didn’t want to go and buy it for 10 thousand rubles. As a result, my father made a cheap device for smoothing concrete, practically from garbage - all sorts of unnecessary things.

The following photos clearly demonstrate how this ironer works. We take a metal profile (the dimensions depend on the area being smoothed), weld transverse stiffeners to it, on which, in turn, hinge joints made of pipes are fixed.

The most important element, due to which the angle of elevation of the “wing” changes, is a rotating gearbox with a chain.

When the handle was rotated, the chain was wound around the pipe, and one edge of the smoother was raised.

Having carried the iron to the end point, we rotate the handle in the opposite direction. The chain is wound again, and the edge of the smoother is raised, facing the user.

We pull the ironing iron towards ourselves and repeat all the steps until we finish the job.

ronik55

Due to the “pipe-in-pipe” connection and fixation with a cotter pin, you can increase the length of the handle at your discretion. This design is easy to assemble yourself.

See how to make it yourself (follow the link and you will find a drawing).

Garden sprayer and clamp

It all started with Metamorph it was necessary to treat the area against ticks, and the old manual sprayer had given up its life. There was an urgent need to buy a new device or find a replacement for it. While preparing for processing and thinking about what could be done, a user of our portal came across an unnecessary fire extinguisher lying around the household.

Next, we proceed as follows - carefully unscrew the fire extinguisher, pour out the remaining powder and rinse the cylinder with water. Instead of a bell, we screw in an adapter into which, depending on the need, you can screw in a nipple (for pumping air) or a nozzle (for spraying the mixture).

Metamorf FORUMHOUSE Member

Using a homemade sprayer is very simple: fill the fire extinguisher halfway with a special spray liquid, then pump it with air, screw on the sprayer and go poison the ticks.

DIY carpentry tools

QWEsad Member FORUMHOUSE

One day I needed to glue together a lot of wooden panels. I didn't have any clamps. Therefore, I decided to quickly assemble a clamp from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and metal plates with welded nuts in “tens”.

In total, the user made 3 of these wedges; this was enough to glue a wooden board measuring 1.5x1.7 m and 18 mm thick. To prevent the bars from sticking to the workpiece, under those places where there is a seam and glue may protrude, you can put a newspaper or shoot polyethylene with a stapler.

In order not to spoil the workpiece, you need to place a gasket under the plate into which the screw rests. The gluing width is adjusted by moving the stop bar.

It's nice to see when a person made everything and other household items with his own hands. To simplify the process of cutting metal or sawing elements from wood, they build homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. This solution saves not only time on manufacturing products, but also money on purchasing ready-made ones. Let's look at a few practical and interesting options below.

DIY pipe bending machine

Read in the article

How to use homemade machines and tools for your home workshop

The use of homemade machines and devices for the home workshop is aimed at solving several problems:

  • Simplifying the metal processing process. When creating household items, a metal cutter or press is often required.
  • Improving wood processing. Even to build a small shed or make a wooden one, others are needed.

Buying a ready-made tool is quite expensive, so the use of homemade machines and devices for the garage is becoming more and more relevant every day. Among the most common options for home tools are:

  • carpentry workbench;
  • device for quickly sharpening knives;
  • device for sharpening metal drills;
  • drilling machines;
  • press;
  • cutting disc machines.

Here are a few photos of do-it-yourself tools and devices from “homemade” people:

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Practical DIY tool shelves

Before creating devices and with your own hands, determine the storage location of all devices, so that later you do not have to search throughout the workshop or where everything is. It’s not difficult to make a shelf for tools with your own hands; the main thing is to decide on its dimensions and material of manufacture.


The easiest way to make shelves is to assemble them from wood. Do not forget about the need to coat the finished structure with a protective varnish or to prevent rotting and swelling of the wood.


You can create a combination of a metal support and wooden shelves. Here are detailed instructions for creating such a homemade model:

Image Sequencing

Assembling the frame. To do this, prepare two side frames consisting of 4 corners. Connect the elements using . Then, tighten the 2 frames together using 4 corners.

When the frame is completely assembled, proceed to making the shelves. They can be made from wood or metal, as well as from other dense materials at hand. It is enough to cut the canvases of a suitable size and attach them to a metal base.
If desired, you can make the rack movable by attaching four small wheels. Or install it firmly in a designated space in the garage.

You can find other interesting projects and drawings for making tool shelves. Watch the video on the topic:

And also make useful household gadgets with your own hands:

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We make a carpentry workbench with our own hands according to the drawings: video instructions and photo examples

Among the common do-it-yourself devices is a workbench. Durable and dimensional, allowing you to securely fasten the workpiece, useful for high-quality cutting of wood and creating various elements from it.


The device package includes:

  1. Working surface. Hard is used for it to increase the service life of the device. The thickness must be at least 6 cm.
  2. Supports. Assembled from wooden beams or metal plates. The main task is to ensure the stability of the entire mechanism.
  3. Vise for securing the product. If the table is long, you can install two vices at once.
  4. Tool box. A useful recess or pull-out design that provides quick access to needed small parts.

To assemble a carpentry workbench for your workshop yourself, you should choose a drawing and purchase materials for the work.

DIY carpentry workbench drawings

Before purchasing materials to assemble your own workbench, you should think about a detailed drawing. It should include the dimensions of the machine itself; it is advisable to note the dimensions of the materials used and their quantity.

For example, a finished drawing of a folding workbench with your own hands may look like this:


Whatever model you choose to create, take into account several features of the workbench that ensure ease of cutting wood:

  • height and length of the master’s arms: the height and width of the tabletop depend on these parameters;
  • which hand is working: place the vice on the right or left;
  • what blanks will be made: choosing the shape of the table;
  • how much space in the room do you allocate for the workbench?

Taking into account all these parameters, it will be easier for you to decide on the drawings of the carpentry workbench and the dimensions of the machine. Here are some interesting examples:





Instructions for assembling a wooden workbench with your own hands

You can buy a wooden workbench in a store or through online catalogs, but it’s cheaper to make it yourself. Let's take as a basis a simple option with typical tabletop dimensions: length - 150-200 cm, width 70-120 cm.

The manufacturing work will include several stages:

Image What need to do

Make the top cover from thick ones to make a shield with a width of 70 to 200 cm. Fasten the elements with long nails, and you need to drive them in from the outside and carefully bend them from the inside. The working surface of the workbench is made only of wood or.

Sheathe the lid along the lower perimeter with a 5 by 5 cm beam. This will make it more convenient to attach the vertical supports. The location of the supports depends on the size of the tabletop. It is better to make them from thick rectangular timber at least 120 by 120 mm.

The carpentry workbench must be installed correctly. Be sure to secure it firmly. If it will be mounted outdoors under a canopy, dig holes for supports. Indoors, use other fastening methods.

When the structure is assembled, install a vice on it. To fully understand how to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands, watch the video:

Making a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands

Professional “homemade workers” assemble not only tables for work, but also vices with their own hands according to drawings. Any design of such a clamp will include several elements:

  1. Supports, where each one has a sponge for clamping.
  2. Moving jaw.
  3. Metal guides. The sponge moves over them.
  4. Lead screw for moving elements.
  5. Collar. Necessary for rotating the screw.

When making a homemade vice with your own hands, you can use various available materials. For example, there is a design option made from a profile pipe. To do this, prepare several pieces of pipe of different sizes, a steel stud with large threads and double nuts.

Instructions for creating a bench vise from a profile pipe:

Image What need to do

The largest pipe acts as a body. Supports are soldered to it from below. A 3-4 mm steel flange is put on the back side. A hole is drilled in the center for the running nut, and opposite the front support is the rear jaw.

There is a front steel flange on the internal moving part. A stud is mounted in it, with lock nuts attached to it. Thrust washers are placed on both sides of the flange. The last element is a movable tube attached to the front jaw.

And also watch the video “do-it-yourself vice at home”:

DIY metal workbench drawings

A metal workbench does not differ much from a carpenter's workbench. It is based on a rigid metal rather than wooden frame. A vice is attached to it, and the entire workbench is designed to withstand the force of a sledgehammer.


Do-it-yourself metal workbenches can have one, two or three cabinets, and also not have shelves or drawers for small parts. In terms of strength for working in a garage, you can make a regular table made of metal up to 5 mm thick and a reinforced structure where sheets from 10 to 30 mm are applicable.

Here are some useful plans for making a metal workbench for your workshop:





How to make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands: drawings and photo examples

No home is complete without a knife in the kitchen. It is quite difficult to make the correct one without special devices: you need to maintain the desired angle and achieve the ideal sharpness of the blade.


For each knife, a certain sharpening angle must be observed:

  1. A razor and scalpel require an angle of 10-15⁰.
  2. Knife for cutting bakery products – 15-20⁰.
  3. Classic multifunctional knives – 25-30⁰.
  4. For hunting and hiking, take a device with a blade angle from 25 to 30⁰.
  5. If you want to cut hard materials, then sharpen at an angle of 30-40⁰.

To ensure the desired angle, it is worth buying or making a sharpening device. For example, you can assemble a sharpener with your own hands.


A comment

Tool selection specialist at VseInstruments.ru

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“If you don’t use sharpening every day, then 1000 rpm is enough for a high-quality result and a long service life of the device.

"

To assemble such a machine, you will need a motor from a washing machine with a power of 200 W. Completely for creating a sharpener from an engine from the The progress of work on creating such a simple device will be as follows:

  • Sand the wood blocks with sandpaper, removing any burrs. Make markings depending on the desired angle.

  • Attach a stone to the drawn line to give the blade a sharp edge. To do this, attach it to the block and mark its width. Then, make cuts on the markings, up to 1.5 cm deep.
  • Attach abrasive stones to the resulting recesses so that the grooves coincide. Then, install the sharpening stone by screwing it onto the bolts.

There are many ways to make a homemade knife sharpener. Choose the one that suits you and try to create a convenient and useful tool for your home.

How to make a device for sharpening a metal drill with your own hands

They make their own not only a sharpener for blades, but also a machine for sharpening drills for metal. Here are a few drawings useful for work:




Ready-made home machine The simplest and most common version of such equipment for the garage is a converted drill. To work you will need:
  • base frame;
  • rotation mechanism;
  • vertical stand.

For the rack, they usually use either boards. The drill is lightweight, so there is no need to use metal. In this case, the frame must be made massive in order to reduce vibrations during operation of the device.


To correctly connect the bed and vertical stand, as well as assemble all the equipment into one whole machine, pay attention to the video instructions:

DIY drawings with dimensions for a drilling machine

To correctly make any machine or practical device for private use, you should first make a drawing with dimensions. Only then begin preparing materials and assembling the device.

Here are some examples of do-it-yourself drilling machine drawings from a drill:





You can also make a homemade vice for a drilling machine. Below is a video instruction for assembling such a device:

Article

Crafts made from old objects and things that can be given a second life can make your home much more comfortable. Some DIY homemade products for the household can significantly save the home budget, make work easier, or make the surrounding interior more interesting. And even if difficulties arise in the process, overcoming them will be worth it.

Homemade crafts for the home workshop

In almost any home there is always some set of tools necessary for farming. But sometimes situations arise when working in your own workshop or garage requires some kind of device that cannot be purchased in a store or is very expensive. In this case, you can find a way out by making it yourself.

Forge from a balloon

This device for heating metal will become an indispensable assistant in the home workshop. The forge can be safely used to make original items using artistic forging. These will be truly unique forged items.

For the forge, it is best to use an empty 25 liter gas cylinder. Its ends are cut off with a grinder, and the door of the forge and its back part will be made from the cut parts. The inside of the cylinder is covered with fire-resistant ceramic wool, which can withstand temperatures of more than 1200 0 C. On top it is coated with fireclay clay (lined), which can withstand temperatures up to 1500 0 C. After lining, fireclay slabs or fire-resistant bricks are laid on the bottom of the hearth.

A hole is drilled at the top and a small squeegee is inserted, allowing the nozzle of a gas-powered burner to be inserted, which can create a temperature in the forge of more than 1000 0 C - quite sufficient to heat the metal to a certain temperature suitable for forging.

Collapsible garage crane

When manufacturing such a lift, the cash costs will be much less than purchasing a factory model. To make it, you will only have to spend money on materials, half of which may be found in the garage.

Materials required to assemble the lift:

  1. Two racks - profile pipe 100x100x2350.
  2. Cross rod - steel pipe of arbitrary length with a diameter of 100 mm.
  3. Four supports for the rod - profile pipe 100x100x600.
  4. The base and braces are a corner with 100 mm shelves.
  5. Two metal rollers for the cable.
  6. Four wheels for movement.

For the lifting mechanism, it is best to use a manual winch with a worm gear with a maximum load of up to 500 kg, which is attached to one of the racks of the crane beam.

The design does not take up much space in the workshop, can be easily moved on hard surfaces and is quite convenient for removing the engine from the car.

Mobile tool rack

The main highlight of this rack is its small size, but at the same time you can place a large number of tools on it, and if necessary, quickly move it to any place or an adjacent room. It is very convenient to use such a rack in your workshop or when carrying out construction and repair work in large rooms, especially when you need to frequently carry tools.

The rack can be assembled on the basis of a collapsible plastic rack installed on a homemade platform with wheels (trolley). The platform is made exactly to the dimensions of the rack from a metal corner with shelves 45x45 mm or a sheet of plywood with a thickness of at least 10 mm. Furniture metal wheels are used for movement.

Additionally, you can make and attach fasteners to the rack for building levels, extension cords and other tools that can be stored in a hanging position.

To help the hostess

It is not always possible to financially buy, for example, some new furniture in a furniture showroom or place an order for its manufacture. But you can always get out of this situation by making the necessary thing with your own hands, and at the same time making it attractive and unique, using improvised means for this.

Kitchen apron made of corks

The kitchen apron is the surface of the wall located between the countertop and wall cabinets. Usually this part of the wall is tiled. But it is possible to use many other materials to cover it, for example, gluing wine corks to the wall.

This exclusive decor looks quite magnificent.

Before sticking, each cork is cut lengthwise into two halves with a sharp stationery knife. It is advisable to paint the wall black, which will highlight the seams between the plugs.

Corks are glued to the wall using liquid nails in a checkerboard pattern or with a certain pattern, since it is unlikely that they will be laid out perfectly evenly, and curved rows will visually look disgusting.

The plugs themselves are not afraid of moisture, but they quickly get dirty and are difficult to wash, so it is best to cover them with a glass screen made of tempered glass. True, you will have to spend a little money on it and order glass from a special workshop, where they will cut it to a given size and make holes for sockets and fasteners.

The glass is fixed to the wall with anchor dowels, which can be purchased at almost any hardware store.

Although an apron decorated with wine corks may be an expensive pleasure, the result achieved will be worth it.

The surface of the tabletop, as well as the wall, can be decorated with corks and covered with tempered glass.

Hanging folding table

A folding table mounted on the wall allows you to save some space in the apartment. When folded down, it can protrude from the wall at a distance of no more than 10 cm and does not bother anyone at all, but when unfolded it can replace a full-fledged table.

There are many options where you can use a wall-mounted folding table. Here are just a few of the most basic:

Shower for the cottage

There is probably nothing better than cooling off under running water on a hot summer day, especially if it was spent working in the garden. Naturally, only a shower will solve this problem and relieve the fatigue that has accumulated during the day.

You can install the shower yourself without involving outside help; the main thing is to choose a place for it and decide on the type of shower stall.

Among the summer showers, three types of cabins stand out:, which you can freely build on your own:

Installing a simple shower is done as follows:

  1. A shower cabin frame is made, which can be assembled from metal, wooden beams or other available materials.
  2. A metal or plastic water container, which can have a volume of 50 to 200 liters, is installed on the roof of the assembled frame.
  3. It is advisable to paint the metal container black for better heating of the water. Additionally, several heating electric heating elements can be installed in the container, then you can take a shower even in cloudy weather.

The booth can be sheathed with boards, plywood, slate, or simply covered with tarpaulin or cellophane film with folding curtains.

For construction on your own

The topic of construction or renovation probably worries everyone. And, naturally, everyone who is involved in it wants to finish it quickly with minimal financial costs. Therefore, if you want to save money, you can make some construction materials yourself. For example, these could be wall SIP panels or such a useful tool as a vibrating plate, the need for which often arises for many owners of a personal plot.

Homemade SIP panels

To make them, you need to prepare a flat, hard platform. Place a sheet of OSB 10-12 mm thick on it using a rubber spatula with teeth, apply glue to it.

Then lay sheets of grade 25-30 foam plastic on the glue. After this, an adhesive mass is applied on top of the laid foam plastic, as well as on the bottom OSB board, and a second sheet of OSB is laid on top.

If several slabs are being made at the same time, stacked, the work should be done quickly until the glue hardens. Typically, no more than 4-5 panels can be prepared in this way at a time.

After preparing the formed slabs, you need to create pressure using a press. Since at home, of course, there is no hydraulic press, it can be replaced with a thick plywood sheet, laid on prepared SIP boards over the entire plane and loaded for 2-3 hours, for example, with several bags of cement, sand or other cargo. You can even use a passenger car by driving onto a plywood sheet along a pre-made overpass.

After the glue has completely dried, the homemade panels are ready; they can be placed in a separate stack and you can begin preparing new panels. The manufactured panels should lie unloaded for another day, after which they can be used for their intended purpose.

Making a vibrating plate

To make a homemade vibrating plate, you will need to prepare:

  1. An electric motor with an IV-98E eccentric, which is the main part of the vibrating plate.
  2. Steel sheet, at least 8 mm thick, size 450x800 mm. It can be ordered at any metal warehouse.
  3. Two pieces of channel no more than 400 mm long.
  4. An inch pipe for the handle and two rubber bushings for attaching it.
  5. The tools you will need are a welding machine, a grinder and a set of wrenches.

On the narrow sides of the slab, stepping back 80-100 mm from the edges, make an incision with a grinder to a depth of about 5 mm. After this, bend the edges towards the cut at an angle of approximately 25 0 and weld them. The bends are needed so that the vibrating plate does not sink into the material it compacts and moves freely along its surface.

Then, across the slab at a certain distance calculated for mounting the electric motor, two channels are welded with the shelves down. Through pre-drilled holes in the channel, using M10 bolts, an electric vibrator is attached to them.

The handle, made of pipe, is attached to the vibrator through soft rubber bushings, which can be purchased at an auto parts store or hardware store in the hardware department.

Thus, you can make a lot of useful household things with your own hands, spending only a fraction of the money that you would have to pay when buying a finished product. You just need to put in some effort and have certain skills.

Any owner of a workshop, even if it does not have a separate room and is simply organized in a garage, strives to equip it with everything necessary for comfortable, productive and, most importantly, high-quality work. But nowadays you can’t “get far” with a hand tool. A great variety of power tools, various multifunctional or narrow-profile machines, and auxiliary equipment comes to the rescue. There are no problems with supply - the main difficulty is that high-quality products cost a lot of money, and not everyone can afford it.

But craftsmen find a way out of the situation by making such machines and devices on their own, some of which may well compete with factory models. Moreover, to create such equipment, quite accessible materials are used, often just collecting dust in the barn. And running power tools, usually found in any workshop, are widely used as drives.

This publication will discuss only some homemade machines and devices for the home workshop. It should be correctly understood that it is simply impossible to cover all the available variety of such equipment within the framework of one article. It’s time to give this topic a separate site altogether. So this will mostly be a general overview. But we will consider the manufacture of two models, which are probably very important for any workshop - a pendulum saw and a sharpening machine for cutting tools, step by step, with all the nuances, from the first outlines to testing.

The basics are a convenient workbench and organized storage of tools and accessories.

The comfort of working in the workshop depends on many important conditions. If we take the issues of heating, ventilation and lighting “out of the picture” (these are topics for separate consideration), then the rational, convenient organization of the main workplace always comes to the fore.

We are talking about a workbench and a well-thought-out storage system for tools, accessories, consumables and other small items necessary for work.

The workbench is selected or made independently, depending on the main direction of work in the workshop.

“Classic” carpentry workbench

If the owner is more focused on wood processing, then he will need a carpentry workbench. There is a long-used and extensively tested general concept for such a workplace. It probably makes sense to stick to it when making your own workbench.

The workbench is based on powerful wooden legs (item 1), which at the bottom, at the base, are usually connected in pairs by support bridges (item 2). There is a cover on top - a workbench board (item 3). As a rule, a recessed area is provided - the so-called tray (item 4) so ​​that during work the tools or components necessary at hand do not fall on the floor.

Usually on the right side there is a side or rear clamp (item 5). In essence, this is a screw vice, which has a wedge that extends upward (item 6). Along the line of this wedge along the bench board there is a row of slots (item 7) for similar wedges (they can be hidden in these slots or stored separately and inserted as needed). This allows you to rigidly fasten a wooden workpiece for processing between the wedges of the table and the side vice.

To secure a long part that cannot be secured between the outer wedges, use the front clamp (item 8). This is also a screw vice that is capable of clamping the workpiece between the front end of the workbench and a movable wooden jaw. And in order for the long part to have the necessary support points from below, fingers or retractable supports hidden there in the grooves extend from the end of the workbench (item 9).

The lower area of ​​the workbench is called the underbench (item 10). As a rule, there are powerful crossbars (legs) that connect the legs of the layout in pairs in the longitudinal direction. These crossbars often contain shelves for storing tools or workpieces, or even, as shown in the diagram shown, a closed cabinet.

Below is a drawing of the workbench. Anyone who can read diagrams and has carpentry skills will be able to make such a model on their own.

To begin with, here is a general installation diagram of a carpentry workbench with dimensions.

Now - a series of drawings for individual parts and components of the structure.

For the manufacture of underbench (base) parts, as a rule, high-quality coniferous wood with a residual moisture content of no more than 12% is used.

The bench board (cover) is mainly made from hardwood - it can be beech or oak, ash or maple. Making such a massive dimensional panel yourself is an extremely difficult task, so often a ready-made laminated board is ordered or purchased from a carpentry workshop. This is unlikely to seem like an overly expensive solution, given the cost of the material and the complexity of the process. So it’s more profitable to purchase a finished product, and then modify it for a workbench.

By the way, when performing various processing operations, one way or another, the surface of the desktop will be damaged. To maximize the life of the workbench, the lid is often covered with a plywood or fiberboard sheet (naturally, according to the size of the table and with all the necessary grooves and sockets). As this coating wears out, it can be replaced with a new one - this is not so difficult and inexpensive.

Particularly difficult is usually the installation of the front and rear (side) clamps. In order to get truly functional and convenient devices, it is better to purchase the screw mechanism of the vice itself in a ready-made, assembled form. There are many models suitable for this purpose on sale.

To assemble these clamping units, you can use the following drawing as a guide:

Vise jaws must be made exclusively from hardwood, the dimensions and location of the holes are shown in the drawing. (It should be correctly understood that the location and diameter of the holes must correspond to the purchased screw mechanism).

And finally, the last diagram shows how to attach the rear fixed jaws of both vices to the workbench lid.

Of course, an example is shown here, and it may suit many in its “pure form,” that is, without changes. But if other dimensions are required (based, for example, on the available space), then you can draw up your own drawing, taking the demonstrated diagrams as a sample for assembling certain components. The principle still remains the same. If necessary, no one bothers to make improvements, which, of course, should not negatively affect the strength of the structure.

Video: mechanic's workbench with his farts

If the master plans to mainly engage in metalworking operations, then he will need a completely different workbench, designed specifically for such purposes. Here, in contrast to the carpentry “classics”, there are an innumerable number of possible options. As a rule, steel profiles (angles, channels, profile pipes) and sheets are used for production. One of the quite worthy options is shown in the video below:

An important component of comfortable work in the workshop is always an optimized arrangement and storage system for tools and accessories. But we will not dwell on this, since a separate article is devoted to this topic on the pages of our portal.

How to make the workshop as comfortable as possible for work?

It’s convenient when you know where everything is and when the necessary tool is always at hand. So it’s worth paying close attention to the system of cabinets, racks, cabinets, and intelligently organized storage areas for consumables. This is especially important in cases where the size of the room does not allow for “clearance”. There is a special publication dedicated to questions on our portal.

Homemade machines and equipment

As already mentioned, the variety of homemade machines is extremely large, and it is simply impossible to talk about them all. Therefore, in this section of the article the reader will be offered several video reviews. And, in addition, the manufacture of two models of machines will be considered in detail, step by step.

Video - miniature wood lathe based on an electric drill

On the farm, there is often a need to turn one or another wooden piece with a round cross-section. If you don’t do this professionally, then purchasing a real lathe is completely unprofitable. And it will take up a lot of space. But having at your disposal a miniature machine that can be stored in a closet and assembled as needed will never hurt. Moreover, its manufacture is not such a difficult matter.

You can verify this by watching the proposed video. Despite the fact that the author speaks English, all his actions are shown in detail and are quite understandable. And anyone can make such a machine, guided by this video tip.

Video - a circular saw based on a manual vertical electric saw

If there is a need to prepare a considerable number of wooden parts of the same size, then you can’t think of anything better than a stationary circular saw. And it is quite possible to make such a machine, and, again, in a collapsible version, which, due to its uselessness, does not take up practically any space at all.

All you need is a sheet of plywood, a few blocks and screws. And the main element of the design is a hand-held vertical saw

In the shown scene, the master removes part of the protective guard of a manual circular saw. This is not always necessary. It is quite possible that the free exit of the saw will be enough if you plan to cut not too thick workpieces.

Pendulum saw from an angle grinder - self-production step by step

When cutting workpieces or wood or metal, including profile or round pipes, high precision is often required. Moreover, the accuracy is not only in linear dimensions, but also in the cutting angle. A typical example is when it is necessary to accurately cut blanks for a frame in which the joining of parts is either strictly perpendicular or at an angle of 45 degrees.

A pendulum saw allows you to perform this operation. The diagram above shows in a simplified form the principle of its structure and operation.

In any case, there is a reliable base (bed, frame) that ensures the stability of the machine (item 1). In many models, a work table with a system of guides, stops and clamps is organized on top of the bed, allowing you to accurately align the workpiece. There must be a slot (item 2), exactly into which the rotating circle or saw is lowered.

The support (item 3) of the swinging part of the machine is rigidly attached to the frame. It is equipped with a bearing block and an axis (pos. 4), relative to which the swinging platform-rocker arm (pos. 5) rotates. An electric drive (pos. 6) is located on this platform, transmitting rotation directly or through a transmission system (pos. 7) to a cutting tool - a cutting wheel or circular saw (pos. 8). A lever (pos. 9) or handle is provided, with which the master can smoothly lower the cutting disk down onto the workpiece mounted on the work table above the slot.

But the capabilities of this tool will become immeasurably wider if you make a special milling table for it. One of the options for such a homemade machine is in the proposed video.

Homemade machine for sharpening cutting tools - step by step

In the workshop, in the kitchen, and just around the house, a lot of cutting tools are used that need regular sharpening. Walking disk knife sharpeners provide a very short-term effect of sharpening the cutting edge, since they remove metal along the edge of the blade, and according to all the rules it is required - perpendicular to it. When sharpening manually using whetstones or on a rotating sharpener, it is very difficult to accurately maintain the optimal angle, especially so that it is equal along the entire length of the blade. By the way, this full sharpening angle is different for different types of cutting tools - there are many separate publications on this topic on the Internet.

This means that in order to qualitatively sharpen, for example, a knife, a device is required that would allow applying force with the translational direction of a flat abrasive perpendicular to the cutting edge consistently along its entire length with a single, pre-set angle of inclination. And to provide visual control over the progress of the formation and sharpening of this cutting edge.

There are many such devices available for sale. But if there is a desire, then a similar machine can be made independently, using materials that may be found in a workshop or garage. Yes, if you buy what you need, it will be quite inexpensive. An example is shown step by step in the table below.

IllustrationBrief description of the operation performed
The entire structure of the machine, all its parts and components will be attached in one way or another to the base - the bed (frame).
A profile pipe with a square section of 20×20 mm is well suited for its manufacture...
...with a wall thickness of 2 mm.
As will be clear later, there are no strict proportions of sizes - they are based on considerations of common sense, the strength of the structure being created, and the availability of certain materials.
Blanks for the frame are cut from a profile pipe using a grinder: two pieces 250 mm long, and two more - 130 mm.
In this example, the master will adjust the joining sides of the frame at an angle of 45 degrees. This requires a precise cut, so it is best to do it using a cutting machine.
If it is not there, nothing prevents you from making the frame simpler, that is, placing its sides end-to-end. Then, instead of 130 mm, the small parts will be only 90 mm, since they will fit between the large ones.
This will not affect the functionality of the sharpening machine in any way - the only thing is that there will be some loss of aesthetics.
This is the frame we got after preparing the parts.
The cut edges can be slightly adjusted, deburred, and a small chamfer for the weld seam can be cleaned.
Then the frame is assembled on one side and welded along short vertical joints with a continuous seam.
The seams are cleaned of slag and sanded with a grinder.
Welded frame corner after cleaning.
You can, of course, immediately boil it on both sides, but the master simply decided to supplement the frame with height-adjustable legs and stands.
The operation is optional - it is quite acceptable to install the machine simply with the frame on a flat surface. But with stands, of course, it’s more interesting.
This adjustable leg with a nut is easy to find in any furniture hardware store.
The nuts will just be welded into the corners of the frame.
Holes are drilled in the corners into which the nuts will be placed before they are scalded.
The nuts are inserted into the holes - this operation is carried out at all four corners of the frame.
Now on one side of the frame (on its small side) you need to weld nuts into which the vertical stand of the machine will be screwed.
To do this, at an equal distance from the corners, initially thin (3÷4 mm)…
- and then the upper wall of the frame is drilled with a drill of 10 mm diameter.
What is important here is stability, the stability of the assembly’s fastening, that is, you can’t get away with just a few turns of thread. Therefore, extended M8 nuts will be welded into the holes made.
It is advisable to first machine their lower edge under the cylinder so that it fits tightly into the drilled holes.
In fact, only one such socket is required to install the machine. But it is better to provide two symmetrical ones - who knows, perhaps in some cases it will be more convenient for the user to move the stand to a different position. This will take no more than a couple of minutes.
After this, all the nuts are scalded.
When tacking, you must ensure that the nuts do not move and are level. To do this, they can be held with a temporarily screwed-in long pin, controlling its position perpendicular to the plane of the frame.
In addition, this measure reliably protects the thread of the nut from splashes of metal.
Here's what happened: on the top side of the frame there are two welded nuts for the posts...
...from the bottom there are four welded nuts in the corners for screwing in the adjustable supports.
By the way, if the craftsman has at his disposal threaded rivets of the required diameter (M6 for the supports, and M8 for the stand), then you can get by with them, that is, avoid the operation of welding the nuts.
The next step is to make a shelf on which the cutting tools will be fixed with a pressure plate.
It can be made from a thick steel plate. But the master decided to give it a slight reverse slope, so he cuts it out from a corner with a 63 mm shelf.
The length of the part is the width of the frame, that is, 130 mm.
First, the required piece of corner is cut off.
Then it is clamped in a vice to cut one shelf evenly with a grinder.
This is how this platform will be welded to the frame.
After welding, the seam is thoroughly cleaned.
Knives and other cutting tools will be fixed to this area with a pressure plate. And for this you need to prepare two holes with M8 threads.
It is advisable to space them wider so that you can, for example, clamp planer knives and other similar cutting parts between them.
First, holes are drilled with a small diameter drill - 3 or 4 mm.
Then - with a drill for M8 thread, that is, with a diameter of 6.7 mm.
After this, the thread is cut with a tap.
The next operation is the manufacture of the pressure plate.
For it, it is better to take thick, 3÷4 mm, stainless steel. It is less susceptible to deformation than conventional carbon steel.
The size of the plate must correspond to the dimensions of the supporting platform.
The edge that will face the cutting edge of the tool is ground beveled to prevent it from being touched by the abrasive during sharpening.
Next, two holes are drilled on the plate for M8 screws - strictly aligned along the axes with the threaded holes in the support pad.
These screw holes can be modified to be countersunk.
The frame is completely ready, and after cleaning and degreasing it can be coated with paint from an aerosol can.
While the paint dries, you can work on other components and parts of the machine.
A steel rod with a diameter of 8 mm will be used for the stand and working rod of the machine.
First you need to clean it thoroughly - polish it with sandpaper. The master suggested this option - with clamping the rod into the drill chuck and holding the paper in your hand.
Let's be honest - it's not a completely safe way.
Rod after polishing.
It is divided into two sections - one 450÷500 mm long, the second 250÷300 mm.
An M8 thread is cut from one end of each rod.
On a short rod there is a threaded section approximately 20 mm long - this is for screwing into the welded nut of the frame.
On a long rod there is a thread 40÷50 mm long. It is necessary for screwing the handle.
The next step is to make clamps that will hold the abrasive bar on the rod. They are made from extended M10 nuts.
First, you need to use a core to mark the center of the through hole, with a distance of 12 mm from the edge.
Then, very carefully, strictly perpendicular to the nut axis, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled.
You need to cut a quarter off the other edge of the nut. This is done with a hacksaw for metal in two steps.
First, a transverse cut is made to the center...
...and then - longitudinal.
You need to prepare two of these nuts.
Short M10 locking bolts are screwed into the nuts - and the clamps are ready.
This is what they will look like.
After this, the clamps are put on the bar. Between them, a sharpening stone is placed in the cut-out quarters, and this entire assembly is secured with clamping bolts.
That's it, the rod is assembled, you can move on to the next unit of the machine.
There should be a unit on the rack that provides an upper point of support for the rod. In this case, the translational movement of the rod back and forth, and a degree of freedom left and right, should be ensured. In a word, this is a kind of hinge, the height of which on the stand will precisely set the sharpening angle of the cutting edge.
This unit will again be manufactured on the basis of an extended M10 nut.
To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm is drilled in it - exactly the same as on the nuts that were used for the clamps.
Then comes a rather complicated operation.
It is necessary to first drill a hole with a diameter of 6.7 mm through the head of the M10 bolt, and then cut an M8 thread in it.
The bolt itself will be screwed into the nut, and the ring from the anchor will be screwed into the hole. This ring will act as a hinge.
This is what the unit looks like assembled.
From the side of the through hole, an M10 bolt is screwed into the nut, with the help of which the unit will be fixed to the vertical stand.
It must be said that such a hinge in the “light version” is not the most successful, and is justified only by the availability of parts. But the working rod produces quite a significant amount of play, which can affect the accuracy of maintaining a single sharpening angle along the entire cutting edge of the knife.
A more perfect solution would be to use a ready-made fish-eye joint - such parts are available in a large assortment in online stores, and their cost is not so high.
It is probably quite possible to do without the complicated operation of drilling a hole in the head of the bolt and then cutting the thread - if you are lucky enough to purchase a hinge with a suitable threaded part. Then for the connection it will be possible to get by with a short hairpin.
But for now we are considering it as the master suggested.
All parts are ready - you can proceed to assembling the machine.
Support legs are screwed to the bottom of the frame.
Their height is immediately adjusted so that the machine stands stable - on all four points.
The vertical stand is screwed in.
A hinge assembly is placed on the stand and secured at a certain height with a clamping bolt.
A pressure plate is placed on the support platform. Two screws are attached that will secure the cutting tool in this clamp.
All that remains is to thread the free end of the working rod into the hinge ring - and we can assume that the machine is ready.
The master decided to immediately try it at work.
To begin with, sharpen this knife with a completely “dead” cutting edge.
The knife is placed between the support platform and the pressure plate. The cutting edge is approximately parallel to the short side of the bed.
Fixation is carried out by tightening two screws.
The working rod is inserted into the hinge.
The hinge itself is adjusted in height to ensure the required sharpening angle.
The sharpening process begins - first with the first, large block. As you work, you can observe how a uniform cutting edge is formed along the entire length of the blade.
Then the block can be replaced with another one, with a fine abrasive, to bring the sharpening to the maximum sharpness of the cutting edge.
The result of the work is first visual...
...and now with a demonstration of the degree of sharpening of the cutting edge.
A loose sheet of paper can be easily cut into strips.
By changing the height of the hinge unit, you can sharpen the plane iron in the same way...
...or even an ax blade.
If it is temporarily not needed, the machine itself can be easily disassembled by removing the bar and unscrewing the stand. In this form, it will take up very little space in the closet or on the shelf.

It makes sense to add a few more touches.

  • Many factory-made models are equipped with a scale on which the required sharpening angle of the cutting edge is set. It’s not difficult to come up with a similar device yourself, for example, like the one shown in the illustration. A plate perpendicular to the plane of the supporting platform, and a removable ruler with a protractor screwed to it.

After clamping the knife in the clamp, it is enough to apply a ruler to the cutting edge and to the hinge point, align the central mark of the protractor with the platinum, and take the angle readings using the same platinum, counting it from 90 degrees.

Important - the full sharpening angle is made up of the angles on both sides of the blade. That is, if an angle of 30 is required°, then sharpening on one side should be carried out at an angle of 15°.

They do it differently - instead of a protractor, you can fix a sector on which signed marks have been made in advance, for example, “kitchen knife”, “table knife”, “chisel”, “ ”, etc. That is, it will be enough to select the height of the hinge so that the bar coincides with the applied mark.

Another option is marks on the vertical post. True, in this case, uniformity in the placement of knives in the clamp is required - so that the cutting edge always protrudes at the same distance from the edge. Not quite convenient.

And the simplest option is to make several templates from thick cardboard or thin plywood, labeling them which cutting tool this corner is intended for.

In a word, by showing intelligence it is not difficult to significantly simplify bringing the machine into the desired working position.

  • You can also make a note about fastening the bars. If they are supposed to be changed during sharpening, then they must have the same thickness, otherwise the angle will change. Many masters advise other approaches. Instead of bars, they have several steel plates of the same size prepared. Abrasive paper is glued to the plates. The two sides are already two different levels of grain. That is, you can prepare a kit for all stages of sharpening: from rough shaping of the cutting edge to polishing it.

Another interesting idea in this regard is not a plate, but a section of a 20x20 mm profile square pipe. The four sides are four different abrasives. As you work, just turn it over to the right side...

  • One more nuance: it doesn’t hurt to ensure your safety at work. It will be very unpleasant if, during a forward movement, your hand falls off - and carefully with your fingers along the cutting edge. So some kind of protective guard will not hurt here, which you can come up with to your taste.

A home-made tool sharpening machine will certainly be very useful in any household.

* * * * * * *

We can say that in this article we have only scratched the surface of the topic of homemade machines and devices. We will be glad if readers send their wishes: whichever tool they would like to see in detail - we will try to satisfy their requests. And it’s even better if one of the amateur craftsmen shares their secrets on the pages of our portal. Published reviews from visitors are required to be paid.

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